It's also good to note the piston holes should be up and down to align with the pins on the back of the pads. That was my issue causing a light drag when driving. Luckily I caught it right away, but I suppose that's what happens when you get caught finishing brakes in the dark.
The fact that he didn’t mentioned that the rear pistons had to be aligned/center cost me my brake pads and rotors ,maybe even my calipers since I’m my rear brakes won’t stop squeaking with my new oem one’s
Did he seriously just put grease on the front of the pads? Never seen it before, never have read that before, and after 15 years of being a tech, thats a first. What about a torque wrench? Torquing the calipers is very important, and even more important to torque the lug nuts. No mention of pulling the caliper bolts to clean those and grease properly. Using WD40 will deteriorate rubber, and what about the likelihood of pushing that brake fluid back into the reservoir which is likely overflowing at this point. Ah no worries, brake fluid is harmless.... doesnt ruin anything it touches at all....
Petroleum based oil products will and do eventually deteriorate rubber products. Once more, it will serve to collect dirt/dust/etc. in a short amount of time (before it all evaporates through weathering and/or heat dissipation of braking) which will also create premature failure of caliper bolts, piston to piston seal (or boot..), and when breaking in a new set of pads can cause the pads to glaze over if used over-abundantly enough to coat the surface area of the rotor/pad contact surfaces. Why do you suppose almost all rotors come with the specific instruction of thoroughly cleaning the rotor surfaces before installing the pads and calipers? And before you answer with the quick reply of, “So you don’t leave your house and have a braking problem because of the slick surfaces that haven’t baked off yet,” remember, the original point, to which spraying wd-40 then becomes seen as “ok” by the average person, which then creates the situation discussed secondly.
@@nicholasfrench4374 I wasnt doubting the rest of your comment. Just the WD40 debate. WD40 is mostly kerosene which is used as a cleaning agent. It shouldn't be used as lubrication since it can collect dirt and dust like you have stated. This debate is heavy within the motorcycling world whether its safe to use on sealed chains because of the rubber O rings. It has been proven to be safe by people who have tested WD40 on numerous types of rubber and the company themselves have stated the same. I'm not sure where you're getting your information from.
Zach Smith I went ahead and researched it for a bit, and the aliphatic hydrocarbons derived from petroleum in the past (serving the purpose as an aid in dispensing/penetrating from aerosol), has been replaced by a mineral oil of an undisclosed type and carbon dioxide as the propellant. I’m not completely sure where/who I first heard that from, but I believe it was around 26 years ago. Even at 10 I was pretty heavy into tools and working on everything I could get my hands on. Thanks for the information. Nice to see someone else in this life who’s capable of civility. Well, I’m gonna go spray down the brakes on the wife’s coyote. She can’t stand the smell. But.....these dishes and this laundry ain’t gonna do themselves, so ya gotta teach em somehow.... 🤣
Yeah the grease definitely goes on the backside, it might not be grease but I've never seen coating like that on new pads before..The fact they were spraying WD40 on there and doing everything without gloves while touching the rotors, I'm not expert, but I'd recommend checking a couple other videos to make sure you get it right. I personally find ChrisFix videos extremely detailed and very easy to follow, and brakes are pretty similar to replace on most cars make/models.
Yes do not follow that crap man ! It is supposed to be on the other side of the pad... the goal is to reduce friction so your brakes don't make noise.. they would vibrate against the piston and make noise if you don't put grease there.... no grease on the pad facing the rotor... you will reduce friction and prevent brakes from working... probably resulting in a crash. ALso you have to clean your rotors with brake cleaner to remove the fabric coating... No WD40 on the piston either... The guy don't even talk about pushing/pump the brakes multiple time after installation to have the pistons back in place... also you have to warm up your brake for first use... not a good video for sure... very dangerous and will bring a lot of problems to people.
@@eastbaked9152 I also prefer ChrisFix videos, but I came to watch this one since I have a GT 05 mustang and wanted to know the torque specs, but he doesn't mention them. Do you know anything about that?
I would think you'd want to clean the calipers, They were dirty. Not to mention no lube on anything? I'd imagine that Mustang can be heard a mile away when pulling up to a stop sign and not in a good way.
I got shipped a pair of rotors for my stock GT worth the stock two Piston brakes. Well I installed the rotors and brakes and my pads stuck past the rotors. Noticed there 12.4 inches not the 13.2 inches of my stock ones. What did I do wrong or ordered the wrong part. It stated fits stock GT with standard brakes. But it seems to small in diameter.
Brake fluid should be bled if it is cloudy, dirty, brown or rust colored. For a street car check levels every season and it will typically need to be bled every year or two. For a track vehicle, check before every event.
It's also good to note the piston holes should be up and down to align with the pins on the back of the pads. That was my issue causing a light drag when driving. Luckily I caught it right away, but I suppose that's what happens when you get caught finishing brakes in the dark.
does not matter new pads did not have a dimple !
Every other brake video I've watched says specifically not to let the caliper hang from the brake line.
Yep zip tie it up
So does this one
I was told to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before pushing the pistons back in, is that correct?
Yes, especially if you’ve been topping off your brake fluid because of worn pads...it can overflow.
Yeah this video misses a lot
The fact that he didn’t mentioned that the rear pistons had to be aligned/center cost me my brake pads and rotors ,maybe even my calipers since I’m my rear brakes won’t stop squeaking with my new oem one’s
NEVER put grease on the rotor facing side of the pads!
Did he put grease on the face of the pads like last time
wd 40 on the rubber on rear brakes is a huge no no
Did he seriously just put grease on the front of the pads? Never seen it before, never have read that before, and after 15 years of being a tech, thats a first.
What about a torque wrench? Torquing the calipers is very important, and even more important to torque the lug nuts. No mention of pulling the caliper bolts to clean those and grease properly. Using WD40 will deteriorate rubber, and what about the likelihood of pushing that brake fluid back into the reservoir which is likely overflowing at this point. Ah no worries, brake fluid is harmless.... doesnt ruin anything it touches at all....
The WD40 debate has been legitimately tested with all sorts of rubber. WD40 is safe.
Petroleum based oil products will and do eventually deteriorate rubber products. Once more, it will serve to collect dirt/dust/etc. in a short amount of time (before it all evaporates through weathering and/or heat dissipation of braking) which will also create premature failure of caliper bolts, piston to piston seal (or boot..), and when breaking in a new set of pads can cause the pads to glaze over if used over-abundantly enough to coat the surface area of the rotor/pad contact surfaces.
Why do you suppose almost all rotors come with the specific instruction of thoroughly cleaning the rotor surfaces before installing the pads and calipers?
And before you answer with the quick reply of, “So you don’t leave your house and have a braking problem because of the slick surfaces that haven’t baked off yet,” remember, the original point, to which spraying wd-40 then becomes seen as “ok” by the average person, which then creates the situation discussed secondly.
@@nicholasfrench4374 I wasnt doubting the rest of your comment. Just the WD40 debate. WD40 is mostly kerosene which is used as a cleaning agent. It shouldn't be used as lubrication since it can collect dirt and dust like you have stated. This debate is heavy within the motorcycling world whether its safe to use on sealed chains because of the rubber O rings. It has been proven to be safe by people who have tested WD40 on numerous types of rubber and the company themselves have stated the same. I'm not sure where you're getting your information from.
Zach Smith I went ahead and researched it for a bit, and the aliphatic hydrocarbons derived from petroleum in the past (serving the purpose as an aid in dispensing/penetrating from aerosol), has been replaced by a mineral oil of an undisclosed type and carbon dioxide as the propellant.
I’m not completely sure where/who I first heard that from, but I believe it was around 26 years ago. Even at 10 I was pretty heavy into tools and working on everything I could get my hands on.
Thanks for the information. Nice to see someone else in this life who’s capable of civility.
Well, I’m gonna go spray down the brakes on the wife’s coyote. She can’t stand the smell. But.....these dishes and this laundry ain’t gonna do themselves, so ya gotta teach em somehow....
🤣
Nicholas French if you’ve been a “tech for 15 years” you wouldn’t be watching a vid on how to change break pads lmao
Time 4:26 and time 7:41, what's the red stuff on the pad side of the pads? I thought the grease when on the "backside" not the braking side?
Yeah the grease definitely goes on the backside, it might not be grease but I've never seen coating like that on new pads before..The fact they were spraying WD40 on there and doing everything without gloves while touching the rotors, I'm not expert, but I'd recommend checking a couple other videos to make sure you get it right.
I personally find ChrisFix videos extremely detailed and very easy to follow, and brakes are pretty similar to replace on most cars make/models.
Yes do not follow that crap man ! It is supposed to be on the other side of the pad... the goal is to reduce friction so your brakes don't make noise.. they would vibrate against the piston and make noise if you don't put grease there.... no grease on the pad facing the rotor... you will reduce friction and prevent brakes from working... probably resulting in a crash.
ALso you have to clean your rotors with brake cleaner to remove the fabric coating...
No WD40 on the piston either...
The guy don't even talk about pushing/pump the brakes multiple time after installation to have the pistons back in place... also you have to warm up your brake for first use...
not a good video for sure... very dangerous and will bring a lot of problems to people.
@@eastbaked9152 I also prefer ChrisFix videos, but I came to watch this one since I have a GT 05 mustang and wanted to know the torque specs, but he doesn't mention them. Do you know anything about that?
Bill don't need no breaker bars...muscle the muscle car :)
I would think you'd want to clean the calipers, They were dirty. Not to mention no lube on anything? I'd imagine that Mustang can be heard a mile away when pulling up to a stop sign and not in a good way.
You must drive a Dodge just saying buddy...
@@StySaeBePitive I actually have a 2014 Mustang, So no sorry. I've done brakes on S197's many times.
How about antiseize on the slide pins of the caliper?!
How come my caliper won’t line up now I didn’t have any trouble taking it off.
Oh yeah.... BREAK IN PERIOD FOR NEW ROTORS. Hello McFly?
no mention of torque specs?
No anti seize?
I don't want this guy touching my vehicles
I got shipped a pair of rotors for my stock GT worth the stock two Piston brakes. Well I installed the rotors and brakes and my pads stuck past the rotors. Noticed there 12.4 inches not the 13.2 inches of my stock ones. What did I do wrong or ordered the wrong part. It stated fits stock GT with standard brakes. But it seems to small in diameter.
Nice video.boit to do mine as well. Drilled and slotted.
Leaves caliper dangling while doing the work... Tisk Tisk....
Do you know have to bleed them?
Brake fluid should be bled if it is cloudy, dirty, brown or rust colored. For a street car check levels every season and it will typically need to be bled every year or two. For a track vehicle, check before every event.
Why would you put grease on the pad going onto the rotor side I have never seen a ase mechanic ever do that that’s contaminated pads
At what time stamp do you see him do such?
Perfect
Man what the hell is that red shit on the pads
you put the rotor on the wrong side.
Terrible
wtf...horrible brake job