Agree with you. It seems a solid printer, an okay upgrade, but still needs some basic and more advanced features. Power recovery and calibration are needed. I do love the built-in air exhaust (don't need an extra inline if close to an exit point) and the protective hinge door is nice.
I was waiting for the rage, but it never came. Just a regular chat with an Aussie. Great review. Thanks for pressing the points for what needs to be included in this next gen. One day, they might actually listen.
@@shanepatrick4534 Yep Sunlu abs and toughness, are all I use and I mix them too to get even more strength because they both have the same exposure settings
Had Halot Mage 8k for almost 7 months, and it is doing great. For model release, I use small plastic ceramics scraper with changeable blades. Tyere are also metal variations. Works great for me.
it's 2024, how is it that we don't have as STANDARD FEATURES, exhaust ducting, exposure testing settings, easy to pour vats, flexible release print plates?? printers either have some or none of them, like WTF?
I just got an 8K myself cause from what I've seen they don't make the edges so soft like with lower micron printers. I'm pretty excited to get started myself.
"something like this but with a bigger blade" I sharpened my scraper and honed it to a razor. get straight under and twist, perfect for that flexy resin.
@@OnceinaSixSide blunt flap disk on an angle grinder then used an "edge eater" grinding stone from Bunnings to make sure it was straight. Only remove material from one side, you're basically turning it into a chisel. got it sharp enough to cut my arm hair.
@27:00 Use a butter knife. They have a large, flat stainless steel blade that flexes beautifully under prints. The blade isn't that sharp so it doesn't score the build plate too much. I never use scrapers or sharp blades.
Got myself a Halot-Mage it lasted five months and the screen broke most prints failed or had bad quality 70% of the time and getting a replacement screen is a challenge. But hey the quality of the prints it did manage to actually print were quite good just took way too much trial and error.
Please wash and dry the cones before testing the sword (but don't cure), that's how we did it during testing so for repeatable/reliable results it's the best way.
Havalon makes an orange skinning knife that takes replaceable razor blades. They’re incredibly sharp and we use them when processing deer. Highly recommend.
Thanks for the review, great content as always. Regarding the blade for removing prints from the build plate, I've had great success with using disposable plastic razorblade scrapers, made for scraping stickers. They don't scratch the buildplate, and they're really cheap and pointy enough to get under a print nicely.
What i will say about the pumps specifically on the halot mage pro is that I actually like it for vat cleaning. you can drain the vat of resin and put the tube into a bottle of IPA and push the IPA around in the vat while it's still attached. It's probably easier to remove the vat but im lazy...
Ok so follow me here, when trying to test the resume on power loss, maybe the system doesn't see a power off using the switch as a power loss event but a normal shutdown instead. A quick pull off the power cable should do the trick. Keep up the good work.
Re: the scalpel and getting stuff of your plate - have you considered trying a plastic razor? People recommend having one anyway just in case you need to get cured resin off your screen, but I've found the one I have super handy - it's not as wide as the wallpaper scraper type ones, so you can get it in narrower spaces and more crowded plates easier, but it's wide enough to get a bit of leverage compared to your scalpel. And it's plastic so it doesn't scratch your build plate up. It's what I use on my GK 2. I know some people prefer a scratched up plate anyway, but I've found things adhere to it just fine if the settings are dialled in. I've only had it a short time - maybe 7 or 8 prints - but the face of the build plate looks brand new still and I reckon that's in part down to using the plastic razor. Just an idea anyway.
Any hardware store will have metal scrapers. I got narrow one, like couple centimeters wide, rounded the corners to not gauge the buildplate, and sharpened the edge like a chisel, so single bevel. Works great, it is long and flexible, have nice comfy handle, and it's easy to clean, since only thing touching resin is smooth flat metal sheet. Or try those styrofoam cutters with disposable blades that you can break off in segments. 9mm version will be similar to your scalpel, but will be way longer if you extend the blade fully (around 6cm should stick out). They are reasonably flexible, but I'd still be cautious about those blades breaking during prying some stubborn prints off the build plate. Also they are quite hard, so I think they may scar the surface, but then again I'd think scalpel blade leaves the mark too
UV tools is a free software that is normally used to check your sliced files for resin traps, unsupported islands etc. But one of it's options is an exposure test. It is a bit clunky to set up, but it can print couple tests at once with different exposure times, altho it does them 1 by 1 instead of parrallel like anycubic last time I used it. If for example you want to do 2 tests with 3s and 4s exposure times, it will do 3s part first, and 4s part after that, so each layer will take 7s to print. But you can compare details on some basic flat test prints with different timers after that, and need to clean everything only once at the end. Might be a good tool to see what exposure time gives best detail, and after that you just double check it with cones of calibration for strenght. Sadly I couldn't straight up load cones into it and print them, it uses its own flat tests.
26:55 I sharpen my spatchulas, it works great, not as good as something as sharp as razor blade but still great. I even got one wider than my plate so I can remove things like direct printed chain mail all at once
@32:56 Issue with companies doing that is alot of the 3D printing communities absolutely hate Walled garden / Proprietary non-sense. It always ends up with some Razer and blade model with people getting absolutely ripped off on the consumables. Just look at the ink jet printer industry the past two decades.
I bought an Ender 3 Pro as my starter printer. I've been traumatized for life. I bought an X1C Combo a year later bc the e3p was (and is currently) a paperweight.
It almost makes me think I somehow stumbled upon some kind of miracle machine when I bought my Mars 4 for under 300$ and didn't have a singular issue with it yet haha
Hay mate I have used chisel blades for a while now and found them to be great also thanks for putting us on to using metho on one of your previous vids changed over and haven’t looked back.
Great videos! Maybe do one for people looking to upgrade/purchase a resin printer. Covering different strengths and weaknesses of the available selection and brands. I Couldn't find a good up to date one. Which printer will you recommend for someone buying his first 3d printer?
hey once in a six side, next time you test power loss recovery, you could do it without any resin in the vat to save you from cleaning the plate in the event the printer does not have that feature.
bit late to the party but the halot mage s same as the halot mage pro the wifi printing works right from the halot slicer (not on chitu yet) the password is set up on the halot via the halot box area in settings you put the password in there what ever you want then use that password in the halot box software
I've heard other 3d printers can get just as fast as Dynax with tunning and even as high as 200mm/h. Does that mean dynax provides a higher ceiling if tuned, e.g. 300mm/h or is it just a higher speed that doesnt require tunning. Also, does it sacrifice print quality? I expect using a blurry FEP is to artificially make prints smoother. Wouldn't anti aliasing do this better and could be used in theory by any printer as its just software?
If you're not printing in the highest rez possible for commercial print-n-paint, anything above 4k is pointless. And if you do print in the highest rez for print-n-paint, anything above 8k is pointless.
I am hesistant to change to a non water-washable Resin out of fear that it ist too hard to clean without a washing station (no space left in the hobby room). Any Suggestion or Tips?
I use alcohol to wash my prints and I just use a few of those plastic pickle jars and a toothbrush and I haven't felt the need to buy one of those washing stations it's just big and takes up more space I would rather get another printer to take up that space instead my washing station I can hide in a drawer or throw in a box or slide underneath something
I think the PhotonS I bought, which I am still using because I am miserly, came with a thing of grease, although I ended up having to buy new because I misplaced it.
about your video on high detail resins.. it might be good to show before and after applying a thin coat of primer (ideally done with an air brush to get really thin). So you can seperate if a resin looks sharp because it's high pigment or if it's actually physcially sharper. Or you could just do positive/negative tests. Personally I use my mini chain mail which only works well on high detail resins because it needs gaps to not close on XY and Z but you can't just under expose because then they will be too weak to print, so the smaller scale I can print the mail the better. Surprisingly I've been able to print it super small with elegoo smoke white which is unusual because white resins usually have lots of z bloom.
Yep. Here's the full process; Wash calibration models then determine exposure value for dimensional accuracy. Print test models and double wash. Base coat with the same primer. Photograph text models in identical lighting conditions and fixed distance from the camera.
@@OnceinaSixSide How are you taking the pics? You can get dedicated macro lenses but I've just got some cheaper options that still manage extreme close up shots. Firstly for something like the size of a full mini I use extension tubes on my standard lens (tamron 17-70mm) at about f10, with the extension tube I can focus with the mini just a couple cm away from the lens (rather than 20) and then take 10-20 photos at different focuses and focus stack them together for a super sharp pic. For even closer shots I use a reverse mount with an ultra wide 12mm manual lens which just gets silly close (also focus stack here). I made a 3dAA slicer in blender and have started using these techniques to get much better photos of the results. You can find me posting examples on the TFF or lychee server (I have the same name there) I just managed to print the smoothest puck ever, no layer lines at all even when looking super close up!
I wouldn't bother buying an 8K. Don't know if it's any better with the 14 but the 8 has an absolutely terrible print bed. I've had this thing for a couple months now and I would say at least 75% of my prints have failed due to the terrible bed adhesion.
Sorry to hear that! That really sounds like it could be a settings or resin issue though. My 8k had the exact same build as this new 14k and both are fine.
One thing I have noticed with the new 14K printers is no one is getting layer lines. IDK if the LCD is different, but I'm not getting layer lines at 50um or 10um with zero anti aliasing.
If your exposure time has been calibrated then the support tip settings are too strong and you either need to lower them down if you can, or let the creator know they've over supported their shit
@@OnceinaSixSide I've seen them but honestly the ones with the blades you fit in a craft knife but sideways (we call them stanley blades) are better imho, I had one like the one you linked but the body was too thick around where the blade fitted and it was hard to get flat to the build plate to slide it in under the raft. Maybe that one works though. Looking forward to seeing in in your next vid. :D
i have use Halot box from the start whit auto support, i try lyche multiple fail, i return whit halot box it never fail me . manuel support is just a waste of time for me when halot box do it for you easy whitout fail for me that is , and printing wings whit lots of detail never fail.
Yea, I've been noticing recently my halot ones seam to be struggling to not have failed prints or atleast consistent prints depending on the height/size of the model especially. I don't think its the leveling is the issue and as you said resin calibration is difficult to do on these printers especially when I have 3 of the same printers with the same print settings pring the same files and yet over the duration of owning them they are slowly struggling to go without print failures. Ill try recalibrating my resin but at this point its starting to llok like that I might need to sell these printers and buy new ones after owning them for a little over a year.
If poor bed adhesion is your only issue, and prints on average are becoming completely unstuck from the bed and ending up in the vat - you should first check with a straight edge that your build plate is in fact flat, and then if it is you should next try scuffing it up with sand paper to improve grip, and increase your burn in time by 10-15 seconds. I hope that helps
@@OnceinaSixSide no, the presupports and everything is adhering. however the models themselves are either being pulled of presupports or suffering from what looks like under supporting even though the same file prints fine on another identical machine with the same settings just purchased a few months later. It's something that has me quite stumped.
@@guardsmen2945 Oooh gotcha. Yeah you never want to copy settings from one machine to another, even if the resin and files are the same. Always calibrate exposure for each resin on each machine. It's a pain in the ass but it's gotta be done to account for variances in UV output, LCD quality, etc etc
@@OnceinaSixSide yea, I'm starting to think that especially after watching your video that, that's why my machines seem to be struggling over time to print things regardless of leveling or fresh FEPs. Thanks again for the video and advice, always love your work, especially when you talk to 3d creators and review their files.
Re a better knife. If you want a robust wide bladed knife take a look at a leather cutting knife. They are sharpened on one side only so with care won't dig into the build plate. I use one on my FDM PEI sheet without scratches.
If the 8K had a tilting vat, calibration exposure tool, and maybe a built in heater I think it'd be the ABSOLUTE perfect printer, the human eye can't even see the difference in 8k and 12k, it's utterly meaningless.
@@OnceinaSixSide True, but I live up in Canada with my printer in the basement, it can get pretty cold here so heating would be a nice feature. I also just think the tilting vat cuts printing calibration basically in half since you don't need to fiddle with print speed and retraction and blah blah blah. But that's just me.
I have the original Halot Mage 8k and I was super disappointed with the new Mage. It's not innovative in any way and costs more than the M5S Pro or Saturn 4 Ultra.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Pippin is wanting a full suit of 3D printed rabbit armor
My soul LEFT my body when I saw that built plate raise up when you went to test, holy heavens
This is why I love this channel he keeps in all the mistakes that everyone's made at least once.
Agree with you. It seems a solid printer, an okay upgrade, but still needs some basic and more advanced features. Power recovery and calibration are needed. I do love the built-in air exhaust (don't need an extra inline if close to an exit point) and the protective hinge door is nice.
I was waiting for the rage, but it never came. Just a regular chat with an Aussie. Great review. Thanks for pressing the points for what needs to be included in this next gen. One day, they might actually listen.
That Sunlu ABS-Like Solid Grey and Dark Grey are all that I use anymore. It's just plain amazing.
Same here, great price for great stuff.
@@shanepatrick4534 Yep Sunlu abs and toughness, are all I use and I mix them too to get even more strength because they both have the same exposure settings
I use there nylon like resin and mix it with others.
Best bang for your buck resin out there
I've been using siraya build smokey black, have you ever compared them? I've seen the sunlu ABS like recommended a ton.
Had Halot Mage 8k for almost 7 months, and it is doing great.
For model release, I use small plastic ceramics scraper with changeable blades. Tyere are also metal variations. Works great for me.
it's 2024, how is it that we don't have as STANDARD FEATURES, exhaust ducting, exposure testing settings, easy to pour vats, flexible release print plates?? printers either have some or none of them, like WTF?
Lol "rookie mistake! Like and subscribe" 😂 lovely antics 👍
"I'd rather chonky build plates than heaters" Yes, we all know you live in Australia.
i dont mind the lid sticking out of the back. with the power cable sticking out of the back and posible ducting the space is needed anyways.
I CAST DISAPPOINTMENT!!
You can also get chisel blades for those hobby knives. They're still not as wide as a scraper, but might work better.
Awesome video, all the back end info from your experience in the field is incredible
I would be so happy if Creality listens to you. I love my 8k mage, been watching your videos since getting one.
me too. i Love my Mage PRO.
also have an LD-002H and use them both almost daily. but Mage Pro is just a beast !!!!
I'm just getting into resin printing after 6 years with FDM. I just got the 8K version and I love it so far. Great video
I just got an 8K myself cause from what I've seen they don't make the edges so soft like with lower micron printers. I'm pretty excited to get started myself.
"something like this but with a bigger blade" I sharpened my scraper and honed it to a razor. get straight under and twist, perfect for that flexy resin.
Sounds like a decent idea! What did you sharpen it with?
@@OnceinaSixSide blunt flap disk on an angle grinder then used an "edge eater" grinding stone from Bunnings to make sure it was straight. Only remove material from one side, you're basically turning it into a chisel. got it sharp enough to cut my arm hair.
@27:00 Use a butter knife. They have a large, flat stainless steel blade that flexes beautifully under prints. The blade isn't that sharp so it doesn't score the build plate too much. I never use scrapers or sharp blades.
Just threw their coder under the bus. Guess he's not getting a weekend off now.
Got myself a Halot-Mage it lasted five months and the screen broke most prints failed or had bad quality 70% of the time and getting a replacement screen is a challenge.
But hey the quality of the prints it did manage to actually print were quite good just took way too much trial and error.
Please wash and dry the cones before testing the sword (but don't cure), that's how we did it during testing so for repeatable/reliable results it's the best way.
Havalon makes an orange skinning knife that takes replaceable razor blades. They’re incredibly sharp and we use them when processing deer. Highly recommend.
Thanks for the review, great content as always.
Regarding the blade for removing prints from the build plate, I've had great success with using disposable plastic razorblade scrapers, made for scraping stickers. They don't scratch the buildplate, and they're really cheap and pointy enough to get under a print nicely.
What i will say about the pumps specifically on the halot mage pro is that I actually like it for vat cleaning. you can drain the vat of resin and put the tube into a bottle of IPA and push the IPA around in the vat while it's still attached. It's probably easier to remove the vat but im lazy...
Ok so follow me here, when trying to test the resume on power loss, maybe the system doesn't see a power off using the switch as a power loss event but a normal shutdown instead. A quick pull off the power cable should do the trick. Keep up the good work.
the fact that you instantly tried to play the piping like a digeridoo makes me happy to know you are an ausie
Re: the scalpel and getting stuff of your plate - have you considered trying a plastic razor? People recommend having one anyway just in case you need to get cured resin off your screen, but I've found the one I have super handy - it's not as wide as the wallpaper scraper type ones, so you can get it in narrower spaces and more crowded plates easier, but it's wide enough to get a bit of leverage compared to your scalpel. And it's plastic so it doesn't scratch your build plate up. It's what I use on my GK 2. I know some people prefer a scratched up plate anyway, but I've found things adhere to it just fine if the settings are dialled in. I've only had it a short time - maybe 7 or 8 prints - but the face of the build plate looks brand new still and I reckon that's in part down to using the plastic razor. Just an idea anyway.
Apologies for the stupid question but what exactly is a plastic razor?
I'll give it a go!
Coarse language my dude not course language. :D. Keep up the good work my man.
Any hardware store will have metal scrapers. I got narrow one, like couple centimeters wide, rounded the corners to not gauge the buildplate, and sharpened the edge like a chisel, so single bevel. Works great, it is long and flexible, have nice comfy handle, and it's easy to clean, since only thing touching resin is smooth flat metal sheet. Or try those styrofoam cutters with disposable blades that you can break off in segments. 9mm version will be similar to your scalpel, but will be way longer if you extend the blade fully (around 6cm should stick out). They are reasonably flexible, but I'd still be cautious about those blades breaking during prying some stubborn prints off the build plate. Also they are quite hard, so I think they may scar the surface, but then again I'd think scalpel blade leaves the mark too
Look for 4" or larger floor scraper blades. They can get right under a whole print.
UV tools is a free software that is normally used to check your sliced files for resin traps, unsupported islands etc. But one of it's options is an exposure test. It is a bit clunky to set up, but it can print couple tests at once with different exposure times, altho it does them 1 by 1 instead of parrallel like anycubic last time I used it. If for example you want to do 2 tests with 3s and 4s exposure times, it will do 3s part first, and 4s part after that, so each layer will take 7s to print. But you can compare details on some basic flat test prints with different timers after that, and need to clean everything only once at the end. Might be a good tool to see what exposure time gives best detail, and after that you just double check it with cones of calibration for strenght. Sadly I couldn't straight up load cones into it and print them, it uses its own flat tests.
I bought the Halot 8K in ebay and it seems to be cool too will be doing prints with water wash Resin soon
26:55 I sharpen my spatchulas, it works great, not as good as something as sharp as razor blade but still great. I even got one wider than my plate so I can remove things like direct printed chain mail all at once
@32:56 Issue with companies doing that is alot of the 3D printing communities absolutely hate Walled garden / Proprietary non-sense. It always ends up with some Razer and blade model with people getting absolutely ripped off on the consumables. Just look at the ink jet printer industry the past two decades.
I bought an Ender 3 Pro as my starter printer. I've been traumatized for life. I bought an X1C Combo a year later bc the e3p was (and is currently) a paperweight.
It almost makes me think I somehow stumbled upon some kind of miracle machine when I bought my Mars 4 for under 300$ and didn't have a singular issue with it yet haha
You could use feeler gauges instead of the scalpel
Hay mate I have used chisel blades for a while now and found them to be great also thanks for putting us on to using metho on one of your previous vids changed over and haven’t looked back.
Great videos! Maybe do one for people looking to upgrade/purchase a resin printer. Covering different strengths and weaknesses of the available selection and brands. I Couldn't find a good up to date one. Which printer will you recommend for someone buying his first 3d printer?
The scrolling file name kills me
hey once in a six side, next time you test power loss recovery, you could do it without any resin in the vat to save you from cleaning the plate in the event the printer does not have that feature.
Oh yeah! 😅
Connect to Creality Cloud and plug in a USB webcam. It uploads your timelapse videos
Do you have a video about your workbench? I need that slat wall…
Nope but I will eventually do a studio tour 🥲
I would print a ton more and different resins (clear, colours etc) if there was exposure range finders (I've got a Saturn 2)
Im guessing anycubic has patented that multiple exposure process. Otherwise someone else would at least be trying it.
Elegoo have just done a version for their newest printer
so when are you just gunna build your own printer?
$279 for the 8k is insane to me
Love some confirmation bias. Sunlu/Jayo ABS like is so good.
bit late to the party but the halot mage s same as the halot mage pro the wifi printing works right from the halot slicer (not on chitu yet) the password is set up on the halot via the halot box area in settings you put the password in there what ever you want then use that password in the halot box software
I've heard other 3d printers can get just as fast as Dynax with tunning and even as high as 200mm/h. Does that mean dynax provides a higher ceiling if tuned, e.g. 300mm/h or is it just a higher speed that doesnt require tunning. Also, does it sacrifice print quality? I expect using a blurry FEP is to artificially make prints smoother. Wouldn't anti aliasing do this better and could be used in theory by any printer as its just software?
Babe! Drop everything! New OIASS Video dropped
the pro version came with the power recovery feature??
If you're not printing in the highest rez possible for commercial print-n-paint, anything above 4k is pointless. And if you do print in the highest rez for print-n-paint, anything above 8k is pointless.
4k or 8k are meaningless numbers when the screen size isn't mentioned.
Thanks for this video, I’m a step closer to getting a resin printer
Great review !!! 👍👍👍
What are you talking about the rubber scraper is fine to gentle rub across if the FEP is against a hard surface.
Ive had multiple comments of people screaming at me to stop doing it so I thought it would be a good idea to cover it briefly here.
swingy door!
I am hesistant to change to a non water-washable Resin out of fear that it ist too hard to clean without a washing station (no space left in the hobby room).
Any Suggestion or Tips?
I use alcohol to wash my prints and I just use a few of those plastic pickle jars and a toothbrush and I haven't felt the need to buy one of those washing stations it's just big and takes up more space I would rather get another printer to take up that space instead my washing station I can hide in a drawer or throw in a box or slide underneath something
I think the PhotonS I bought, which I am still using because I am miserly, came with a thing of grease, although I ended up having to buy new because I misplaced it.
about your video on high detail resins.. it might be good to show before and after applying a thin coat of primer (ideally done with an air brush to get really thin). So you can seperate if a resin looks sharp because it's high pigment or if it's actually physcially sharper. Or you could just do positive/negative tests. Personally I use my mini chain mail which only works well on high detail resins because it needs gaps to not close on XY and Z but you can't just under expose because then they will be too weak to print, so the smaller scale I can print the mail the better. Surprisingly I've been able to print it super small with elegoo smoke white which is unusual because white resins usually have lots of z bloom.
Yep. Here's the full process;
Wash calibration models then determine exposure value for dimensional accuracy.
Print test models and double wash.
Base coat with the same primer.
Photograph text models in identical lighting conditions and fixed distance from the camera.
@@OnceinaSixSide How are you taking the pics? You can get dedicated macro lenses but I've just got some cheaper options that still manage extreme close up shots. Firstly for something like the size of a full mini I use extension tubes on my standard lens (tamron 17-70mm) at about f10, with the extension tube I can focus with the mini just a couple cm away from the lens (rather than 20) and then take 10-20 photos at different focuses and focus stack them together for a super sharp pic. For even closer shots I use a reverse mount with an ultra wide 12mm manual lens which just gets silly close (also focus stack here).
I made a 3dAA slicer in blender and have started using these techniques to get much better photos of the results. You can find me posting examples on the TFF or lychee server (I have the same name there) I just managed to print the smoothest puck ever, no layer lines at all even when looking super close up!
I wouldn't bother buying an 8K. Don't know if it's any better with the 14 but the 8 has an absolutely terrible print bed. I've had this thing for a couple months now and I would say at least 75% of my prints have failed due to the terrible bed adhesion.
Sorry to hear that! That really sounds like it could be a settings or resin issue though. My 8k had the exact same build as this new 14k and both are fine.
One thing I have noticed with the new 14K printers is no one is getting layer lines.
IDK if the LCD is different, but I'm not getting layer lines at 50um or 10um with zero anti aliasing.
If I'm having a hell of a time getting my supports off my models should i decrease exposure time or try tweaking the connection points?
If your exposure time has been calibrated then the support tip settings are too strong and you either need to lower them down if you can, or let the creator know they've over supported their shit
Check out a stanley window scraper. Not sure is you call them Stanley blades in Oz though. pretty sure thats what you want.
omg omg omg
www.bunnings.com.au/qep-4-floor-and-wall-razor-scraper_p0393529
So gonna buy this
Cheers! 🍻
@@OnceinaSixSide I've seen them but honestly the ones with the blades you fit in a craft knife but sideways (we call them stanley blades) are better imho, I had one like the one you linked but the body was too thick around where the blade fitted and it was hard to get flat to the build plate to slide it in under the raft. Maybe that one works though. Looking forward to seeing in in your next vid. :D
i have use Halot box from the start whit auto support, i try lyche multiple fail, i return whit halot box it never fail me . manuel support is just a waste of time for me when halot box do it for you easy whitout fail for me that is , and printing wings whit lots of detail never fail.
Yea, I've been noticing recently my halot ones seam to be struggling to not have failed prints or atleast consistent prints depending on the height/size of the model especially. I don't think its the leveling is the issue and as you said resin calibration is difficult to do on these printers especially when I have 3 of the same printers with the same print settings pring the same files and yet over the duration of owning them they are slowly struggling to go without print failures. Ill try recalibrating my resin but at this point its starting to llok like that I might need to sell these printers and buy new ones after owning them for a little over a year.
If poor bed adhesion is your only issue, and prints on average are becoming completely unstuck from the bed and ending up in the vat - you should first check with a straight edge that your build plate is in fact flat, and then if it is you should next try scuffing it up with sand paper to improve grip, and increase your burn in time by 10-15 seconds. I hope that helps
@@OnceinaSixSide no, the presupports and everything is adhering. however the models themselves are either being pulled of presupports or suffering from what looks like under supporting even though the same file prints fine on another identical machine with the same settings just purchased a few months later. It's something that has me quite stumped.
@@guardsmen2945 Oooh gotcha. Yeah you never want to copy settings from one machine to another, even if the resin and files are the same. Always calibrate exposure for each resin on each machine. It's a pain in the ass but it's gotta be done to account for variances in UV output, LCD quality, etc etc
@@OnceinaSixSide yea, I'm starting to think that especially after watching your video that, that's why my machines seem to be struggling over time to print things regardless of leveling or fresh FEPs. Thanks again for the video and advice, always love your work, especially when you talk to 3d creators and review their files.
Re a better knife. If you want a robust wide bladed knife take a look at a leather cutting knife. They are sharpened on one side only so with care won't dig into the build plate. I use one on my FDM PEI sheet without scratches.
Let's get in to it
If the 8K had a tilting vat, calibration exposure tool, and maybe a built in heater I think it'd be the ABSOLUTE perfect printer, the human eye can't even see the difference in 8k and 12k, it's utterly meaningless.
Honestly just the calibration tool would do it for me. Inbuilt heaters aren't necessary, and the tilting vat is cool but also not necessary.
@@OnceinaSixSide True, but I live up in Canada with my printer in the basement, it can get pretty cold here so heating would be a nice feature. I also just think the tilting vat cuts printing calibration basically in half since you don't need to fiddle with print speed and retraction and blah blah blah.
But that's just me.
Thanks!
Cheers! 🍻
honest thought, getting the mage s for 400 euro or mage for 270 ? or just go get for the saturn 4 ultra for 400 instead ?
Save money and get the 8k, or if you want new fancy things go with the Ultra
I have the original Halot Mage 8k and I was super disappointed with the new Mage. It's not innovative in any way and costs more than the M5S Pro or Saturn 4 Ultra.
34:15, I've done that sooo many times
A free didgeridoo 😂
Ooooo aaaaa don’t rub paper towels on your FEP you’ll create micro scratches
It's fine
youtubers don't deserve free sheet