I did mine the same way. Drop the sway bar is a must to get your hands in there and for alt removal thru bottom. More tips .. use a rope from the top to tie back the power steering unit and use another rope to tie back the radiator hose to the brake rotor from the side. It makes so much more room to remove and replace the alt. Also to reset the idle. Turn the ignition on to light up the dash, engine OFF. SLOWLY PRESS AND RELEASE THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR AND BACK 3 TIMES then turn the key off. Start the engine and it should fix the idle speed to just under 1000 rpm.
Great job... It's going to save much time in knowing how to handle this... Smart guy uses both the jack stand and the hyd jack as a back-up... Don't trust those ratch type stands on their own as they have been known to fail. Thanks for the video..! 👍✌🖖Be Safe.
Took me 2 1/2 hours. Didn't drop sway bars. Loosened power steering pump, moved it out of the way , removed alternator through fenderwell. Installed in reverse order. 08 Tundra 4x4 . 5.7 engine.
Just finished mine on an 07, didn't have to remove sway bar and I removed mine through where the wheel would mount. For the alternator, you have 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. As a correction to your video, there are only 2 bolts that connects the powersteering to the mount. Both need to go through the pulley to remove or assemble. Any other do it yourselfers beware, this job is a pain in the ass. Better not plan anything all day.
@fixitish invert it and turn and it comes out. Pull the lines out of the way and move the power steering pump up and over to the right and it's a wide open shot.
@@cichfish7525 if you have a voltmeter I usually check the voltage at the battery when the truck is running. Then I check for battery voltage at the positive terminal on the back of the alternator with the truck off. If I have voltage there but it’s not charging it’s usually just a bad alternator. There’s other tests you can do but this has always worked for me. Way back in the day with older cars you were able to remove the negative battery terminal to test an alternator but you don’t wanna do that with this truck. It worked with older cars since they didn’t have much electronics on them
Yeah, I couldn’t go through the pulley slots to get access to that bolt-the pulley was covering the bolt, and the slot wasn’t big enough. Tried using a regular wrench, and it started to round off the bolt. Got a crowfoot to hit it from different sides of the bolt-that rounded off, too. Now, I’m completely stuck.
@@fixitishmine just failed at 175k. Probably going to get another oem alternator. Had to swap the battery to get home. Glad the tundra has gauges. Only way I knew I had an issue. Then eventually the light came on. Would’ve been nice if Toyota made it easier but that’s less work for the service department.
@@jsawyer1181 I had to do the same thing. Got another battery and drove it home, luckily it has a pretty big battery I drove it about 10miles like that
I did mine the same way. Drop the sway bar is a must to get your hands in there and for alt removal thru bottom. More tips .. use a rope from the top to tie back the power steering unit and use another rope to tie back the radiator hose to the brake rotor from the side. It makes so much more room to remove and replace the alt. Also to reset the idle. Turn the ignition on to light up the dash, engine OFF. SLOWLY PRESS AND RELEASE THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR AND BACK 3 TIMES then turn the key off. Start the engine and it should fix the idle speed to just under 1000 rpm.
I’m gonna have to try this out, I always just turned the ac on and let it get to operating temp. That always worked for me. thanks for the info
Great job... It's going to save much time in knowing how to handle this...
Smart guy uses both the jack stand and the hyd jack as a back-up...
Don't trust those ratch type stands on their own as they have been known to fail.
Thanks for the video..! 👍✌🖖Be Safe.
Took me 2 1/2 hours.
Didn't drop sway bars.
Loosened power steering pump, moved it out of the way , removed alternator through fenderwell. Installed in reverse order. 08 Tundra 4x4 . 5.7 engine.
Great combo! I too also own a is300 and a tundra crewmax!
Ay man, glad to see you posting again bro!
Just finished mine on an 07, didn't have to remove sway bar and I removed mine through where the wheel would mount.
For the alternator, you have 2 on top and 2 on the bottom.
As a correction to your video, there are only 2 bolts that connects the powersteering to the mount. Both need to go through the pulley to remove or assemble.
Any other do it yourselfers beware, this job is a pain in the ass. Better not plan anything all day.
I looked at it and didn’t think it would come out through there. Good to know that it can be done through there as well.
Took me 2 1/2 hours.
It was a pain in the A....
@fixitish invert it and turn and it comes out.
Pull the lines out of the way and move the power steering pump up and over to the right and it's a wide open shot.
@@jeffsullivan3573 sure is
I wasted an hour trying to get that “third bolt” out, and found someone else saying 3, just 2 is required for the power steering.
Do you know the Part Number for the original alternator ?
I believe my alternator went out but I’m not 100% sure. Is there any other way to check besides checking voltage?
@@cichfish7525 if you have a voltmeter I usually check the voltage at the battery when the truck is running. Then I check for battery voltage at the positive terminal on the back of the alternator with the truck off. If I have voltage there but it’s not charging it’s usually just a bad alternator. There’s other tests you can do but this has always worked for me.
Way back in the day with older cars you were able to remove the negative battery terminal to test an alternator but you don’t wanna do that with this truck. It worked with older cars since they didn’t have much electronics on them
Is there a special tool for that 3rd power steering pump bolt at the top
No special tool needed
Currently stuck on that specific bolt, can’t take it off. Where you able to?
Yeah, I couldn’t go through the pulley slots to get access to that bolt-the pulley was covering the bolt, and the slot wasn’t big enough. Tried using a regular wrench, and it started to round off the bolt. Got a crowfoot to hit it from different sides of the bolt-that rounded off, too. Now, I’m completely stuck.
Thanx for the video good job
My alternator is over charging at 15 volts and smoked my battery, it got about 150k miles on it.
how many miles did the oem alternator last before you change it ?
180k and I replaced it with another used oem one 😬 still working great
@@fixitishmine just failed at 175k. Probably going to get another oem alternator. Had to swap the battery to get home. Glad the tundra has gauges. Only way I knew I had an issue. Then eventually the light came on. Would’ve been nice if Toyota made it easier but that’s less work for the service department.
@@jsawyer1181 I had to do the same thing. Got another battery and drove it home, luckily it has a pretty big battery I drove it about 10miles like that
Great video. Just for reference just paid 1250 for replacement. I'm at 132k 2013 tundra.
Also I had a whine noise started about week ago.
Damn this sucks.. never have i wanted to take my vehicle to change the alt.. but this piece of shit is so stupidly designed