@@RRaucinathis van is fantastic. You can find a list of problems in EVERY make and model vehicle. This van is one of the most reliable vehicles on the road…
I just got a 2008 with a 3.5. It works good and runs great. It doesn't have that rubber engine cooler plastic hose or that plastic transmission line. So that's great news. Thanks fir all that information.
I’ve owned 2 Toyota Siennas 2005 over 150,000 and a 2015 with 65,000 before trading. I live in Iowa and kept my Vans washed and in garage when not being used. Never had any real issues. My 2005 as recommended by Manual in car maintenance they changed timing belt and water pump and seals while in there. Six grandkids later and lots of door sliding taking to school and back. Minor lubricants applied by me on sliding doors and hinges. Changed oil every 3 thousand miles. Best Vans I’ve ever owned.👍😀❤️
Between Part 1 & 2 I have gained invaluable knowledge regarding purchasing a high mileage 2004 Sienna, and I know what repairs I'll need to make. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in such an easy and well spoken way.
@@Tommy-qe6fh That was the first year 2GR-FE used in Sienna. Lots of issues, therefore not 2007. AWD is another story on that Sienna. I have AWD. Transfercase on 2nd gen Sienna 2007+ is not really reliable. Driveshaft has issues with bearings etc. And because of that AWD, transmission is constantly overloaded handling a huge power of 2GR-FE and at the same time transfering it to rear end as well (AWD on that car is permanent, no way to switch is off). Just family issues. And everything that just because of a huge power of 2GR-FE. So, just for sake of transmission, do not go with AWD. And for sake of your wallet as well, because it 's transfercase front, rear, drifeshaft, rear support arm of rear differential, which usually has issues with bushing and costs aroung $400. As well two rear CV axles. You don't need that all on Sienna. Believe me. I wish I could just throw all that rear stuff away to become FWD, but.. it's not possible
Awesome video! I recently bought a 2004 Sienna with only 73k miles. Everything you mentioned, I looked for on the vehicle and there were some of the issues present. The passenger side sliding door cable was already broke and missing on the van when I bought it. The door check mount on the driver side door also broke off as well. Other than those two issues, it seems everything else is good for now, but I keep referring to your videos to check for the other issues.
Thx: after watching your 2-part videos, I looked at a CA Bay Area '06 FWD, XLE, w/ 82k miles & checked: 1) all doors and actuators working, 2) Brakes, steering, suspension great, 3) Rack & Pinion replaced, 4) No apparent leaks, 5) No rattles, clicks, etc, 6) Transmission shifts smooth, quiet. 20+ mile test drive, 7) no codes, no CEL. So, rollin' the dice. Paid High Kelly Blue but feel better knowing your "checklist" was guiding me. Carfax confirmed history, which was not excellent, but adequate. Thx and God Bless you & yours
When my power steering fluid was leaking from the rack (slowly), I changed out my fluid for my power steering fluid and added about a 4 ounces of power steering treatment. It don't need to add fluid any more.
This series on the Sienna is bookmark on my TH-cam account. Great information. My 2006 Sienna Limited AWD just turned 80K. 99% of the mileage is highway miles from SF Bay Area to Lake Tahoe or Southern California (via Highway 5). When she visits the Toyota Dealership, I see the same service rep, and he told me during the last visit, “The plastic coating on the sliding doors still looks new, the day they came from the factory! Also, leather driver seat has no cracks and doesn’t look worn.” It had the brakes recently done, and the dealer said that the rear drum still has a lot of pad on them (even though they are still the original pads when the Sienna was assembled.Today I changed the front windshield wiper rubber the first time since I bought this Sienna in 2006….the old rubbers were slightly worn, but I thought it is about time I change them.
@@RRaucina omg, NO x1,000,000 My Sienna is light-years beyond my Caravan which was rife with shoddy materials and design flaws that propagated model year to year never re-engineered. Caravan interior was nice though....
I see many Caravans with 250 to 350,000 miles on them. Parts are dirt cheap and all are rather easy to install. The swiss army knife of vehicles with stow and go seats.@@sz4179
Greetings from Nigeria! I'm looking at getting one of these and as a person that likes to tinker with stuff, you cemented my choice of the '05/'06 model with this video. Great stuff 👍🏿
So helpful thank you so much. I'm a very competent tech/mechanic - but nothing beats specific experience! Just bought an 08 AWD xle for $5200 with 130k. Rad done and other smaller items. Will be going over it thoroughly first weekend I get
Good information. It's true with the springs, I've dealt with two broken springs myself. One new piece of information I learned from this video is spraying a rust inhibitor on the small section of the rear brake lines since I live in the rust belt.
My dad sienna is 2006 LE. Bought it slightly used back 2007. Had it since with about 135k now as of 1/2023. Wish I found your video before I got some things done. Mainly timing belt, spark plug, and ignition coils.
Bought a used 2007 LE trim with 184,000 miles 6 years ago at a reasonable price. Now has 245,000 and actually runs better than when I first got it. Plan yo keep it for another two to three years.
The most important thing for buying a car, is buying a well designed car, so even you missed a few things so may need to spend a little bit more money to fix it, it's still fixable, and after fix, it's reliable. Sienna is one of them.
Thank you! '06 AWD at 185k with not many problems over the 16 years and ~120k we've owned it. 1 front wheel bearing, twice because the first wasn't good. Sliding door hinge (pin goes bad, and Toyota used a weed in one instead of a replaceable one) and actuator (tiny motor is $12 for a 2 pack off of amazon, but tough to replace). Rear hatch struts. Rear struts, but haven't managed to replace the rear springs, which aren't too bad but sag just a little, especially with people in the back. Normal belts, AT fluid, Steering fluid, and brake fluid. And rotors, first regular and then putting in slotted ones since the steep mountain hill overheats nearly all vehicle brakes. On the Rack and Pinion, it leaks a tiny bit over time, builds up in the boot, and then the boot cracks and it looks like a major issue. But that was buildup over 150k. Our PS level doesn't drop, so it looks steady. And the strange thing to me is that the PS system uses ATF, not power steering fluid. If someone tops off with the wrong stuff, that could make things worse, so I flushed it with new ATF. The only thing you didn't mention, which the dealer says is with all Siennas and the tire shop says is with all minivans, is that they eat tires. I put tires with 70-90k warranties on them, and get 30k-35k. The original owner went though 3 pairs of the OEM runflats in the first 66k. I've not used runflats, and have tried different brands and models each time. But the same is true with our '22 AWD Sienna, going through the originals by 35k, and now being mostly thru the next pair by 50k. I pick all-season's with long warranties that are ranked to do the best with snow and ice, so they might be softer compounds than their warranties imply. We now have a dedicated set of snow tires for the '06, and are driving it a lot less now with kids driving it in town. I keep thinking each set we buy will be our last set, but 30k comes a lot quicker than the 90k warranty goal. OTOH, the warranty helps pay for a good portion of the cost of a new set, which adds up at 1k per set. Overall it is a good vehicle. I'm replacing the OEM spark plugs today, and have a couple things on the list, including the timing belt and possibly front suspension. One advantage of the '07+ is that they have a timing chain instead of a belt, so there is a little less maintenance/worry. Their versatility is amazing, and their ground clearance is decent, only being a problem for us one day the plow wasn't here by noon on a 2+ foot snow day.
@@Nintendude2013 I just recently had the oil cooler lines blow out on mine luckily it happened in the driveway lost 3 quarts of oil real quick, and I replace that and then I replace the line on the back of the head behind the power steering pump also, so if you haven’t had your oil lines replaced just a heads up
Also the ones with trizone automated climate control seems to develop an annoying problem over time. If you hear loud clicks in the morning at startup over the center console, or when you adjust the temp, that's probably the problem. There are three motor relays which helps to regulate the flow of cold/hot air and when they start getting stuck, they will develop that clicking noise. So watch out for this, and when they totally fail, you will be stuck at a hot/cold temp which means it could be a nightmare, say, if it just blows hot air during summer or freezing cold air during a subzero morning and you have no way to adjust to a desirable temperature.
I was really good about lubricating my sliding door cables on my 2006 Sienna XLE. The right side sliding door got to where it would not close all the way automatically. My independent mechanic said that the cable was not broken but it's stretched. So, I let him do his recamended solution of removing the cable and making the door a manual sliding door. The door is so smooth and easy to open and close as a manual door, I told my mechanic that maybe we should change the driver's sliding side door to manual, as well, and make the doors on both sides symmetrical in function. He said, "No you don't want to do that." 🙂
My 2006 LE has 222,000 miles on it still smooth to drive and strong. I am a DIY person I fixed everything on this van, I'll keep it as long it running. The only complaint was the paint faded and flaking from hood to the roof
For owners of Sienna. I have a repair video on two commons problems. The GPS Navigation unit dies, blank screen and no power. As well as the power folding mirrors stops folding inside. GPS unit repair: th-cam.com/play/PLK1ZlpBYeB66ze7g8nQAbsaR8DXVjetrZ.html Power Folding mirror repair: Toyota Power Folding Mirror Gear Repair 2004-2010 Sienna Sequoia RX330 Fix Broken Won't Fold DIY
Hello, I’m one of your 64K subscribers in your TH-cam channel and so thankful for your detailed informations & tutorials especially on Toyota Siennas common problems. I would like to know regarding one of the common problem that you haven’t mentioned about the skid sensor activation during slight curve left or right and what causes it. I read a lot of complaints on the Toyota Sienna owners regarding this matter. Do you have a video about it? Thank you so much and God Bless you.
Hi Eduardo! Thank you for watching my channel. That issue is possible and is not as common as others and has more to do with maintenance sometimes. Do you have that issue with your van?
@@TheCarCareNut Thank you for responding to my comment. Yes, I have problem with my 2004 Sienna XLE Limited Edition regarding the skid control that will activate and will brake by itself when cruising even at 45mph on a slight curve. I’ve seen some owners on TH-cam showing the same problem and I read also on the owners forum regarding this matter. Some owners said that the most common culprit is the rack & pinion bushing being worn out and will create a movement of the rack & pinion during curving enough to activate the skid control. Is it possible to replace just the bushing of the rack & pinion? I hope you could give an advise on your You Tube channel regarding this matter coz I know there are lots of Sienna owners who can benefit your advise or tips on how to fix this kind of issue on Siennas. Thanks again & more power to your TH-cam channel.
It’s possible that it’s the bushing which can’t be replaced original, the rack has to be replaced but it would have to be checked first. Another thing is front lower control arms can cause this as well. Lastly debris on the sensor tips can cause this too
Have a 2006 with 230,000 miles... doing the timing and water pump now. The bracket bolts are driving me nuts!! Other than that it's really been a great vehicle for last 7 years.
i had the rack start leaking on mine and i disassembled it with a kit on hand no backup cushioning rings used behind the orings use as seals shock loading caused the orings to look like cutting ,broken coils and front wheel bearings all between 70-120 miles
Love your videos I got a 07 sienna xle thank you for the info.. I'm not a mechanic but I try to do what I can if its something I can't do I let the pros do it... Thank you for the info
Great video series! I love knowing the things to look out for! My 06 XLE with 150k miles has served me well. Front wheel bearings and drivers side driveshaft at 140k. Wish I had seen your videos beforehand as I went aftermarket on the driveshaft. Fingers crossed!
Amazing detail. Thanks a million. Now vs 2011+ who wins? Strictly a budget call or is there good reason to move to next gen? 3 kids must have 3 rows. I need to stay under $10k, lower the better. Tho my wife rather me get Highlander, but wow they sell for so much more 🤨
Hi! The next generation is better but very hard to find under 10k in good shape. I’d much rather you buy a good clean one in this generation than buy a run down one from the next generation for a lower price
2004-2006 common problems now with throttle failure and i believe you forget to mention the heater T connector , it will break after 150k and also the Transmission shifter bushing(i know you are Toyota tech , and they like to replace the whole cable but as non-dealership , i replace just the bushing)
Hello Sir! I made a list of the things to do all at once. Did I get them right? If doing Timing Belt do: drive belt water pump cam/crank seal (replace coolant cover plate?) If doing Valve Cover Gasket do: spark plugs (coils?) coolant plate PCV valve knock sensors Want to have many good years in my 2005 Sienna!
My 2010 has a bad vibration at just off idle and the center console vibrates. I replaced the upper motor mount but it's still there. Also replaced the cat donut. Thinking it must be one of the lower mounts. It is worse when cold due to rougher idle I assume. I bought mine with a broken door cable on passenger side, bad cat donut, broken upper motor mount, but got a great deal. I am going to try another trick I heard which is to raise the engine slightly with a jack to see if the vibration changes or goes away. It's only when in gear and giving a touch of throttle. Mounts look good. Might attempt the spark plugs and clean the throttle body tomorrow if I feel energetic. The rear plugs wont be fun I know.
I guess all of the common problems, you described, with the 2nd Gen Sienna, made me get cold feet when I went to test drive and inspect a 2004 Sienna LE that I was interested in. It still had it's original all aluminum radiator and, with 226 miles on it, I did not want to buy a used vehicle that would need it's radiator replaced soon. The engine and transmission performed like a new car. There was no rust on the lower rocker arms - they looked like clean black painted metal. The CV boots almost seemed new. There was something loose and ratting on the exhaust manifold, on the back side of the engine. If it was like the same problem on a 2002 Camry, the only way to stop that rattling is to replace the exhaust manifold. I mainly felt very uncomfortable with the independent used car dealership owner-operator/salesmen. I did not want to do business with him. I guess I'll just shop used cars from private owners, for my next vehicle.
I will tell you this with all honesty. I would look for a 2005-2006. Check the car against all the problems I listed in this video. Find one that’s in good condition that’s been taken care of and continue to take care of it and you’ll have the van for a long time without issues. These are good vans but many of them get neglected so finding a good one will take some time but will pay off every time. Best wishes on your van search.
@@TheCarCareNut I did go ahead and buy this 2006 Sienna XLE. I asked a mechanic to give me his opinion about the vehicle and the power steering rack. Then, I felt confident to make an offer. My wife and I are transferring the title tomorrow and we are taking delivery of the vehicle, Lord willing. I thought the 2nd Gen Sienna always seemed like a boring car to me but, the XLE trim package is more interesting, especially with Toyota's classic clear-coated metallic-maroon paint, which seems to age well on their cars and trucks that are 15-20 years old. I think this car will grow on me. I chose it for the longevity of the engine and transmission and also, you told me it's one of the best years for the 2nd Gen.
Good morning, hope all is well, I have a 2008 sienna and need to replace the Mode Actuator is this a DIY job, maybe you can make a video addressing this issue. Thank you so much.
Noticed my daughters glass fog light cover was broken in her 2012 Sienna. Toyota must be very proud of them, $144 for just one! So replacing both with plastic Chinese copies for $30 (Lights are about the only electronic part I’ll buy not OEM.)
I'm looking at buying a Sienna so I decided to watch the video and take notes. I will say this is very informative but also there seem to be a lot of issues to watch out for! People keep saying how many miles they have but since you might have to repair all of these items is the extra cost worth it? I already have a dozen items to look out for and I'm only half way through the video. Kinda scaring me away to be honest. Sounds like it could be a very costly car to get 300k miles out of. Posting this not to diss the vehicle but to get feedback. Don't hate me but this was supposed to be my traveling reliable retirement vehicle.
One additional thing, I have no garage so most repairs and preventative maintenance will need to be done by a mechanic. I've got a good skill set but no place to work.
@@mikeporch9138 I can't speak to he 300k part as I only have 200k on my '04, but I read other makes will just likely not last that long without even more costly repairs. My transmission is going out now for what that is worth. I failed to replace the fluid for 180k.
So that explains why the driver's side sliding door on my 2010 was a bit stiff at first but operates flawlessly now. The joints must have been pretty close to siezing up but actuation the door a billion times from delivery work freed them up.
Thanks for the informative videos. I'm trying to choose between: 2010 w/123k and 1 owner with meticulous records at $10k or 2008 w/137k and 2 owners sporadic records at $8k I won't be doing any of my own work except the most basic. Thoughts? Thanks!!!!
Hi Amanda. I would take the 2010 123k with meticulous records. Drive it around 40mph and let go of the gas and make sure you don’t hear any rattling noises after you let go of the gas. I’d rather you buy a car with good service history than some service history. And even though it has good history I would still have a mechanic check it over before you buy it. 10k is a lot of money and you’d want to make sure you know the actual condition of the car at the moment before you buy it. Best wishes with your purchase.
Glad you had it checked out. Plenty of siennas out there for sale. You’ll find one that has no issues or at least if buying one with a few issues you can negotiate the price and know ahead of time what it will take to fix them and how important they are.
Hi, thanks for your awesome videos! I have a 2014 Sienna 3.5 that appears to leak oil from the valve cover in the front, not sure the back bank. No any other issues or noises. Not loosing any oil and 5-6 k oil changes regularly. Shout I bee concern?
Hi Dennis! Thank you for watching my video. So the way the engine sits in the car makes it difficult to work around. For example a belt tensioner is a massive job on that engine. A simple alternator replacement is complicated as well. While the 3.3L in the 2004-2006 you can do even head gaskets with it in the car the other 3.5L engine requires engine removal to fix a lot of common oil leaks on it making it less DIY friendly as most DIY mechanics don’t have access to a lift and usually work on jack stands
Great video, I’m based in Spain an we have here the Corolla Verso model not this one, I would like to buy one of those, you think they have the same problems?
I mean. What can happen with the rear door to breake it. I was working under my van and had to take out some tools from the trunk. Trunk sure was left wide opened after that. It was really close to the backyard wooden fence (yes, it's that high). Than working I had to jack my front part a little higher and when I had done it, I hears some interesting noise coming from the rear end of my car. It was sure rear door struggling with the fence. Fence bent, the door didn't. God bless Toyota.
So according to this it sounds like I need to consider completely rehauling the the suspension and replacing the rack and pinion and radiator/trans cooler. I figure what, 5k maybe? Ouch. 2004 190k. Going to look at it today, will check for rust and have a shop check it Monday....choices to make.
@@truthtimetv4575 I truly appreciate the education you provide. Because of your knowledge and experience, you know the good, bad and ugly of the Toyota brand. When it comes to "deep" engine issues, I shy away. I then looked at the Prius and found expensive repairs. I guess I will keep driving my 21 year old beast! :) As I said, you have great videos!
Thanks for making these videos. My rear passenger power sliding door opens electronically but will not close when pulling the handle or by buttons. Would that be a front latch issue? I don't remember what I did years ago (maybe spray with lubrication) it started to work again than stopped again. I would love to hear your thought s on this issue if possible.
Regarding the sliding door cable and motor breaking, can it be changed to the older manual/hand open and slide method? My wife would rather have that than deal with it breaking/not opening.
I like you more than Scotty now where are you located my friend if I buy one of these 2005 thank you for the great video are you Armenian by any chance
Hi, again. As I told you before, I purchased a 2006 Siena XLE, back in April, with a 137k on the Odometer. It has a new timing belt and water pump. Before I do any summer road trips, I want to find out for sure about some common problems. I know the 2007 Sienna has a engine oil cooling line that attaches to the oil filter canister housing and that line is part metal an part rubber, unless it has been upgraded to metal only. I put my 2006 Sienna up on on jack stands today and got underneath and looked around. I see that my '06 Sienna has a traditional oil filter that screws into the front of the engine instead of a canister that screws into a housing underneath. Does the 2006 Sienna have the oil cooling line that is part metal and part rubber? I could not find it. Thanks for your help.
My 2005 Sienna’s outer sliding door handles keep breaking. I’m thinking it’s either the lock mechanism by the inner sliding door handles, or the front or rear latches. Any thoughts how to troubleshoot what keeps breaking my outer sliding door handles?
Darn. My 04 only has 123K on it. Yes the doors stick when cold. The radiator was replaced by some extended warranty. The only things I do not really like about it is the placement of the oil filter and those darn rear spark plugs.
2004 Limited AWD, take foot off the gas going 20 to 40 miles per hour and you hear a clunk. Rear pinion support arm bushing replaced. Still a problem. Rotating drive shaft back and forth, does not appear to have play in universal joint but does have play going into front differential. What could it be? Thanks, love your videos. James
Hi I need some advice. My budget is 8k... I live in my vans (literally) and put a TON of miles on them (20-30 thousand a year) I'd like a toyota sienna...I was going to buy a 2010 for 8k with 135k miles on it but after watching your video I feem really unsure. I need something extremely reliable and mechanically easy to navigate. I thought a 2010 would be best because its newer and with a chain, but after reading your comments maybe an earlier year would be better? What do you think? Thank you!,
Hi! If you can find a very clean 2005-2006 they are more DIY friendly. The 2008 is good but less DIY friendly on the engine. Everything else is simple on all those vans
It's not hard if you replace the entire knuckle assembly and the ball joint for the wheel bearing. I did this for both side and changed out inner and outer tie rods. Got alignment. So worth it. Rides so smooth and nice. Mine is a 2009 sienna with 240k miles. Also changed out the rotors/brake pads as well. Got loaner tools from Autozone. The rest from Harbor Freight.
I have the opportunity to buy a 2006 XLE with under 40k miles. I was hoping for a 2011-13 model, but the low miles are so tempting! Should I snag the '06? Worth the older car for those low low miles?
When I was growing up my dad had an early 2000s sienna, I think 01 maybe. What are some things to look out for from 2000-2003? I don’t remember too many issues aside from issues with the power door
These model minivans didn’t have much issues other than age issues. Oil leaks and rust is usually what makes people let these go. Also some of them had catalytic converter issues where the computer would have to be replaced. Power door issues were not as common but possible.
Thanks for the addendum to the owners manual. Note I DIY'd the sliding lock actuator motor $5 and did a great job but ..... the safety lock was on .... Oops
Exceedingly stupid query - can you retrofit the driver-side power sliding mechanism into an 04 LE? Same for the power lift mechanism? I bought a single owner van from a known party so i knew all its problems (wheel bearing mostly). It had relatively low miles (170k), CA car (no rust) with 8 seat configuration (main reason we picked it up). Not haivng the power tail and driver side is an issue since we got this as a kid carrier...i know its not "worth" the cost, but its cheaper than buying a new van for 60k, 😆
Anyone ever run into the traction control alarm being extremely sensitive? I have an ‘07 XLE and if I take a slight bend in the road going 40+mph it flashes and beeps at me. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
For those Sienna's with the rust problems unless they're from Southern States I'd stay away from them like the virus and I never heard of so many problems with the Toyota before though I never owned one of the Sienna's
I just bought a 05 sienna with weird brake pedal feeling, the symptom is: first 70% of the brake travel, there is no braking force? but there is good braking force for the last 30% of travel. Is it the ABS module? thanks a lot
@@TheCarCareNut Thanks so much for the quick reply. BTW I scanned the car with a fancy obd scanner there is no code. it seem that the non-electronic portion failure of the ABS module will now throw a ABS light or code on these cars, Is that a correct understanding?? Thanks again
What info do you have on the 2011 3.5liter Sienna? Also has Braunability ADA modifications. This 2011 3.5 Toyota Sienna built in Indiana and sent to Braun Indiana for mods. Also all seats Pop out and has Ada driver controls.
The only real problems our 2009 has had were all 3 front coils have failed twice each and the drivers side sliding door spit out it's cable at 88k. Dealer wanted $1700 to fix the door. I just cut the cable and use it manually. I'm hoping it gets totaled before I have to change the rear spark plugs.
just have a friend "steal" it and burn it in some abandoned area where no one will be harmed/nothing else will catch on fire. Boom, there's your insurance payout ;-)
Hi I’m in the chicago area and considering. Buying a 2004 with 206k miles. Extensive service record and drives fairly well. Would you be able to inspect it?
I'm avoiding ALL THESE PROBLEMS! I still drive my perfect 2002 Sienna XLE. Simplicity and engineering perfection! Cheap repairs and simple electronics. Not a problem in its 170,400 miles. Only two items on the whole car not working: one dashboard light on the left side and the power driver's side mirror. That's it! Paint is perfect. Leather is great. Power doors work like new. The timing belt changed at 85k miles. This model was from 1998 to 2003.
Watch the rear main beam support that carries both back wheels. It does rust and cause to buckle the wheel or might loose the whole wheel. It happened to my 2000 Sienna. It a common serious problem for that generation. Mine rusted at the wheel hob support
I do have a 2007 , it started to fail and sending the code for the ignition coil, but it was an intermittent failure, the mechanic recommended moving one coil to another place to see if the coil was the problem , apparently it was, I bought it and the van worked perfectly fine but only for a Day , then it started failing again . After that it started showing more codes for the oil sensors Abe cranksfhat position sensor , I took them to clean and it worked good, after time it started failing again, but the only recurrent code was the crankshaft position sensor (the coils not any more abs it have the original ones ), I bought the sensor but I couldn’t find where exactly it goes , the diagrams online said it is on the front by the belt but is not
We have had three of these vans. 500k, 410k going strong. Love these vans
What years did you own? Shopping for a sienna van now
What a great summary of the issues with this van! This will save you hours of forum reading. Thanks car care nut.
@Shepherd Aiden Yea, I have been watching on kaldrostream for since november myself :)
Best thing is it will prevent you from buying this bucket of trouble.
@@RRaucinathis van is fantastic. You can find a list of problems in EVERY make and model vehicle.
This van is one of the most reliable vehicles on the road…
You are no less than a doctor. Thank you for your service
I just got a 2008 with a 3.5. It works good and runs great. It doesn't have that rubber engine cooler plastic hose or that plastic transmission line. So that's great news. Thanks fir all that information.
I’ve owned 2 Toyota Siennas 2005 over 150,000 and a 2015 with 65,000 before trading. I live in Iowa and kept my Vans washed and in garage when not being used. Never had any real issues. My 2005 as recommended by Manual in car maintenance they changed timing belt and water pump and seals while in there. Six grandkids later and lots of door sliding taking to school and back. Minor lubricants applied by me on sliding doors and hinges. Changed oil every 3 thousand miles. Best Vans I’ve ever owned.👍😀❤️
Remember to not use a grease or WD-40 on the cable for the powered sliding doors. Use only spray silicon lubricant on those parts.
Between Part 1 & 2 I have gained invaluable knowledge regarding purchasing a high mileage 2004 Sienna, and I know what repairs I'll need to make. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in such an easy and well spoken way.
Same here, and it appears I would be better off with the 2005 Sienna instead of the 2007 one I've been looking at online - because of the engine.
@@rharvey2124 I would say, do not go with AWD and 2007. That is it.
@@kovalenkoihor4325what about AWD and 2008? What's wrong with 2007+ engine
@@Tommy-qe6fh That was the first year 2GR-FE used in Sienna. Lots of issues, therefore not 2007. AWD is another story on that Sienna. I have AWD. Transfercase on 2nd gen Sienna 2007+ is not really reliable. Driveshaft has issues with bearings etc. And because of that AWD, transmission is constantly overloaded handling a huge power of 2GR-FE and at the same time transfering it to rear end as well (AWD on that car is permanent, no way to switch is off). Just family issues. And everything that just because of a huge power of 2GR-FE. So, just for sake of transmission, do not go with AWD. And for sake of your wallet as well, because it 's transfercase front, rear, drifeshaft, rear support arm of rear differential, which usually has issues with bushing and costs aroung $400. As well two rear CV axles. You don't need that all on Sienna. Believe me. I wish I could just throw all that rear stuff away to become FWD, but.. it's not possible
@@kovalenkoihor4325 thank you I really appreciate the insight
Awesome video! I recently bought a 2004 Sienna with only 73k miles. Everything you mentioned, I looked for on the vehicle and there were some of the issues present. The passenger side sliding door cable was already broke and missing on the van when I bought it. The door check mount on the driver side door also broke off as well. Other than those two issues, it seems everything else is good for now, but I keep referring to your videos to check for the other issues.
Thx: after watching your 2-part videos, I looked at a CA Bay Area '06 FWD, XLE, w/ 82k miles & checked: 1) all doors and actuators working, 2) Brakes, steering, suspension great, 3) Rack & Pinion replaced, 4) No apparent leaks, 5) No rattles, clicks, etc, 6) Transmission shifts smooth, quiet. 20+ mile test drive, 7) no codes, no CEL. So, rollin' the dice.
Paid High Kelly Blue but feel better knowing your "checklist" was guiding me. Carfax confirmed history, which was not excellent, but adequate.
Thx and God Bless you & yours
What'd u pay for it?
@@SheThe1Who too much lol
When my power steering fluid was leaking from the rack (slowly), I changed out my fluid for my power steering fluid and added about a 4 ounces of power steering treatment. It don't need to add fluid any more.
This series on the Sienna is bookmark on my TH-cam account. Great information. My 2006 Sienna Limited AWD just turned 80K. 99% of the mileage is highway miles from SF Bay Area to Lake Tahoe or Southern California (via Highway 5). When she visits the Toyota Dealership, I see the same service rep, and he told me during the last visit, “The plastic coating on the sliding doors still looks new, the day they came from the factory! Also, leather driver seat has no cracks and doesn’t look worn.” It had the brakes recently done, and the dealer said that the rear drum still has a lot of pad on them (even though they are still the original pads when the Sienna was assembled.Today I changed the front windshield wiper rubber the first time since I bought this Sienna in 2006….the old rubbers were slightly worn, but I thought it is about time I change them.
Until the coolant line for the trans blows out and the wife drives it to death. Unacceptable! Get a Caravan.
@@RRaucina
omg, NO x1,000,000
My Sienna is light-years beyond my Caravan which was rife with shoddy materials and design flaws that propagated model year to year never re-engineered. Caravan interior was nice though....
I see many Caravans with 250 to 350,000 miles on them. Parts are dirt cheap and all are rather easy to install. The swiss army knife of vehicles with stow and go seats.@@sz4179
Hows the gas mileage on your AWD Sienna?
@@takumisato7126 About 19 mpg when I drive on the highway at 80 mph.
Greetings from Nigeria! I'm looking at getting one of these and as a person that likes to tinker with stuff, you cemented my choice of the '05/'06 model with this video. Great stuff 👍🏿
So helpful thank you so much. I'm a very competent tech/mechanic - but nothing beats specific experience! Just bought an 08 AWD xle for $5200 with 130k. Rad done and other smaller items. Will be going over it thoroughly first weekend I get
Good information. It's true with the springs, I've dealt with two broken springs myself. One new piece of information I learned from this video is spraying a rust inhibitor on the small section of the rear brake lines since I live in the rust belt.
My dad sienna is 2006 LE. Bought it slightly used back 2007. Had it since with about 135k now as of 1/2023. Wish I found your video before I got some things done. Mainly timing belt, spark plug, and ignition coils.
Bought a used 2007 LE trim with 184,000 miles 6 years ago at a reasonable price. Now has 245,000 and actually runs better than when I first got it. Plan yo keep it for another two to three years.
What a great series on these Sienna vans. Thank you very much.
Thanks. You are spot on. I have a 06 with 277,000 miles. I blew the head gasket at 150,000 and fixed it myself.
The most important thing for buying a car, is buying a well designed car, so even you missed a few things so may need to spend a little bit more money to fix it, it's still fixable, and after fix, it's reliable. Sienna is one of them.
Does this guy ever not put out quality content!? Nice job :)
Thanks!
Thank you! '06 AWD at 185k with not many problems over the 16 years and ~120k we've owned it. 1 front wheel bearing, twice because the first wasn't good. Sliding door hinge (pin goes bad, and Toyota used a weed in one instead of a replaceable one) and actuator (tiny motor is $12 for a 2 pack off of amazon, but tough to replace). Rear hatch struts. Rear struts, but haven't managed to replace the rear springs, which aren't too bad but sag just a little, especially with people in the back. Normal belts, AT fluid, Steering fluid, and brake fluid. And rotors, first regular and then putting in slotted ones since the steep mountain hill overheats nearly all vehicle brakes. On the Rack and Pinion, it leaks a tiny bit over time, builds up in the boot, and then the boot cracks and it looks like a major issue. But that was buildup over 150k. Our PS level doesn't drop, so it looks steady. And the strange thing to me is that the PS system uses ATF, not power steering fluid. If someone tops off with the wrong stuff, that could make things worse, so I flushed it with new ATF.
The only thing you didn't mention, which the dealer says is with all Siennas and the tire shop says is with all minivans, is that they eat tires. I put tires with 70-90k warranties on them, and get 30k-35k. The original owner went though 3 pairs of the OEM runflats in the first 66k. I've not used runflats, and have tried different brands and models each time. But the same is true with our '22 AWD Sienna, going through the originals by 35k, and now being mostly thru the next pair by 50k. I pick all-season's with long warranties that are ranked to do the best with snow and ice, so they might be softer compounds than their warranties imply. We now have a dedicated set of snow tires for the '06, and are driving it a lot less now with kids driving it in town. I keep thinking each set we buy will be our last set, but 30k comes a lot quicker than the 90k warranty goal. OTOH, the warranty helps pay for a good portion of the cost of a new set, which adds up at 1k per set.
Overall it is a good vehicle. I'm replacing the OEM spark plugs today, and have a couple things on the list, including the timing belt and possibly front suspension. One advantage of the '07+ is that they have a timing chain instead of a belt, so there is a little less maintenance/worry. Their versatility is amazing, and their ground clearance is decent, only being a problem for us one day the plow wasn't here by noon on a 2+ foot snow day.
I love my 2007 Toyota Sienna Even with 171,000 miles on it it just runs so smooth and so good
I bought an 08 with 97k miles. Power steering rack and pinion is the only
Issue I have. Other than that it’s is pretty good condition
@@Nintendude2013 I just recently had the oil cooler lines blow out on mine luckily it happened in the driveway lost 3 quarts of oil real quick, and I replace that and then I replace the line on the back of the head behind the power steering pump also, so if you haven’t had your oil lines replaced just a heads up
Also the ones with trizone automated climate control seems to develop an annoying problem over time. If you hear loud clicks in the morning at startup over the center console, or when you adjust the temp, that's probably the problem. There are three motor relays which helps to regulate the flow of cold/hot air and when they start getting stuck, they will develop that clicking noise. So watch out for this, and when they totally fail, you will be stuck at a hot/cold temp which means it could be a nightmare, say, if it just blows hot air during summer or freezing cold air during a subzero morning and you have no way to adjust to a desirable temperature.
I was really good about lubricating my sliding door cables on my 2006 Sienna XLE. The right side sliding door got to where it would not close all the way automatically. My independent mechanic said that the cable was not broken but it's stretched. So, I let him do his recamended solution of removing the cable and making the door a manual sliding door. The door is so smooth and easy to open and close as a manual door, I told my mechanic that maybe we should change the driver's sliding side door to manual, as well, and make the doors on both sides symmetrical in function. He said, "No you don't want to do that." 🙂
My 2006 LE has 222,000 miles on it still smooth to drive and strong. I am a DIY person I fixed everything on this van, I'll keep it as long it running. The only complaint was the paint faded and flaking from hood to the roof
I bought a 06 with 170k miles, put a new t belt, water pump some cam and crank seal plus all of the new pulleys. Good car!
Hey how much did you pay for the Sienna?
@@midnite6926 $4,000
Did you pay Jo bidin mark-up?
@Zyx Zyx you're such an 🫏. Why bring that crap to this channel??
Driving up the prices of Sienna minivan's 😐 -like yr videos😁🍻
Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
I was looking at a used one , but after this video, I'll look for something else.
Why? These things are fantastic…built like tanks
For owners of Sienna. I have a repair video on two commons problems. The GPS Navigation unit dies, blank screen and no power. As well as the power folding mirrors stops folding inside.
GPS unit repair:
th-cam.com/play/PLK1ZlpBYeB66ze7g8nQAbsaR8DXVjetrZ.html
Power Folding mirror repair:
Toyota Power Folding Mirror Gear Repair 2004-2010 Sienna Sequoia RX330 Fix Broken Won't Fold DIY
Power Folding Mirror Repair:
th-cam.com/video/R16ZtLX-epY/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I’m one of your 64K subscribers in your TH-cam channel and so thankful for your detailed informations & tutorials especially on Toyota Siennas common problems. I would like to know regarding one of the common problem that you haven’t mentioned about the skid sensor activation during slight curve left or right and what causes it. I read a lot of complaints on the Toyota Sienna owners regarding this matter. Do you have a video about it? Thank you so much and God Bless you.
Hi Eduardo! Thank you for watching my channel. That issue is possible and is not as common as others and has more to do with maintenance sometimes. Do you have that issue with your van?
@@TheCarCareNut Thank you for responding to my comment. Yes, I have problem with my 2004 Sienna XLE Limited Edition regarding the skid control that will activate and will brake by itself when cruising even at 45mph on a slight curve. I’ve seen some owners on TH-cam showing the same problem and I read also on the owners forum regarding this matter. Some owners said that the most common culprit is the rack & pinion bushing being worn out and will create a movement of the rack & pinion during curving enough to activate the skid control. Is it possible to replace just the bushing of the rack & pinion? I hope you could give an advise on your You Tube channel regarding this matter coz I know there are lots of Sienna owners who can benefit your advise or tips on how to fix this kind of issue on Siennas. Thanks again & more power to your TH-cam channel.
It’s possible that it’s the bushing which can’t be replaced original, the rack has to be replaced but it would have to be checked first. Another thing is front lower control arms can cause this as well. Lastly debris on the sensor tips can cause this too
Have a 2006 with 230,000 miles... doing the timing and water pump now. The bracket bolts are driving me nuts!! Other than that it's really been a great vehicle for last 7 years.
i had the rack start leaking on mine and i disassembled it with a kit on hand no backup cushioning rings used behind the orings use as seals shock loading caused the orings to look like cutting ,broken coils and front wheel bearings all between 70-120 miles
A million miles on a 2006 Sienna? That's very impressive. Wow!!!
Great
I have liked, commented, subscribed, and I'm going to buy an '06 tomorrow. All because of this amazingly informative video.
Thank you!
Just a interesting point of interest... All 2005 Sienna has the Towing Package. I hear that the 04 and 06 models do as well but I can't verify that.
Love your videos I got a 07 sienna xle thank you for the info.. I'm not a mechanic but I try to do what I can if its something I can't do I let the pros do it... Thank you for the info
As always! Great and honest informations! More power! Thanks again!!!
Great video series! I love knowing the things to look out for! My 06 XLE with 150k miles has served me well. Front wheel bearings and drivers side driveshaft at 140k. Wish I had seen your videos beforehand as I went aftermarket on the driveshaft. Fingers crossed!
Amazing detail. Thanks a million.
Now vs 2011+ who wins? Strictly a budget call or is there good reason to move to next gen?
3 kids must have 3 rows. I need to stay under $10k, lower the better.
Tho my wife rather me get Highlander, but wow they sell for so much more 🤨
Hi! The next generation is better but very hard to find under 10k in good shape. I’d much rather you buy a good clean one in this generation than buy a run down one from the next generation for a lower price
Thank you car care nut,,,your amazing,,,thank you very much for sharing,,,you give us alot of idea,like me doing PMS on this van.
2004-2006 common problems now with throttle failure and i believe you forget to mention the heater T connector , it will break after 150k and also the Transmission shifter bushing(i know you are Toyota tech , and they like to replace the whole cable but as non-dealership , i replace just the bushing)
Very informative and helpful video, thanks for sharing your expertise...
Hello Sir! I made a list of the things to do all at once. Did I get them right?
If doing Timing Belt do:
drive belt
water pump
cam/crank seal
(replace coolant cover plate?)
If doing Valve Cover Gasket do:
spark plugs (coils?)
coolant plate
PCV valve
knock sensors
Want to have many good years in my 2005 Sienna!
My 2010 has a bad vibration at just off idle and the center console vibrates. I replaced the upper motor mount but it's still there. Also replaced the cat donut. Thinking it must be one of the lower mounts. It is worse when cold due to rougher idle I assume. I bought mine with a broken door cable on passenger side, bad cat donut, broken upper motor mount, but got a great deal. I am going to try another trick I heard which is to raise the engine slightly with a jack to see if the vibration changes or goes away. It's only when in gear and giving a touch of throttle. Mounts look good.
Might attempt the spark plugs and clean the throttle body tomorrow if I feel energetic. The rear plugs wont be fun I know.
my uncles 2004 sienna has just reached 310000Km
made in usa
Nice job 👍 thank you for share all information ,love you video,😀
I guess all of the common problems, you described, with the 2nd Gen Sienna, made me get cold feet when I went to test drive and inspect a 2004 Sienna LE that I was interested in. It still had it's original all aluminum radiator and, with 226 miles on it, I did not want to buy a used vehicle that would need it's radiator replaced soon. The engine and transmission performed like a new car. There was no rust on the lower rocker arms - they looked like clean black painted metal. The CV boots almost seemed new. There was something loose and ratting on the exhaust manifold, on the back side of the engine. If it was like the same problem on a 2002 Camry, the only way to stop that rattling is to replace the exhaust manifold. I mainly felt very uncomfortable with the independent used car dealership owner-operator/salesmen. I did not want to do business with him. I guess I'll just shop used cars from private owners, for my next vehicle.
I will tell you this with all honesty. I would look for a 2005-2006. Check the car against all the problems I listed in this video. Find one that’s in good condition that’s been taken care of and continue to take care of it and you’ll have the van for a long time without issues. These are good vans but many of them get neglected so finding a good one will take some time but will pay off every time. Best wishes on your van search.
@@TheCarCareNut Thanks. On Wednesday, I'm looking at a for-sale-by-owner 2006 Toyota Sienna XLE with a 135,298 on the Odometer.
@@TheCarCareNut I did go ahead and buy this 2006 Sienna XLE. I asked a mechanic to give me his opinion about the vehicle and the power steering rack. Then, I felt confident to make an offer. My wife and I are transferring the title tomorrow and we are taking delivery of the vehicle, Lord willing. I thought the 2nd Gen Sienna always seemed like a boring car to me but, the XLE trim package is more interesting, especially with Toyota's classic clear-coated metallic-maroon paint, which seems to age well on their cars and trucks that are 15-20 years old. I think this car will grow on me. I chose it for the longevity of the engine and transmission and also, you told me it's one of the best years for the 2nd Gen.
Congratulations! Take care of the van and it will take care of you!
@@TheCarCareNut Thanks.
Very helpful Thank you!
Good morning, hope all is well, I have a 2008 sienna and need to replace the Mode Actuator is this a DIY job, maybe you can make a video addressing this issue. Thank you so much.
The vids are so tight and cover so much good info, thank you!
Noticed my daughters glass fog light cover was broken in her 2012 Sienna. Toyota must be very proud of them, $144 for just one! So replacing both with plastic Chinese copies for $30 (Lights are about the only electronic part I’ll buy not OEM.)
I'm looking at buying a Sienna so I decided to watch the video and take notes. I will say this is very informative but also there seem to be a lot of issues to watch out for! People keep saying how many miles they have but since you might have to repair all of these items is the extra cost worth it?
I already have a dozen items to look out for and I'm only half way through the video. Kinda scaring me away to be honest. Sounds like it could be a very costly car to get 300k miles out of.
Posting this not to diss the vehicle but to get feedback. Don't hate me but this was supposed to be my traveling reliable retirement vehicle.
One additional thing, I have no garage so most repairs and preventative maintenance will need to be done by a mechanic. I've got a good skill set but no place to work.
@@mikeporch9138 I can't speak to he 300k part as I only have 200k on my '04, but I read other makes will just likely not last that long without even more costly repairs. My transmission is going out now for what that is worth. I failed to replace the fluid for 180k.
Very good. Thanks!
So that explains why the driver's side sliding door on my 2010 was a bit stiff at first but operates flawlessly now. The joints must have been pretty close to siezing up but actuation the door a billion times from delivery work freed them up.
Yes sir. I would spray the joints periodically with wd40 to keep them from seizing up
Great information, thank you!
Thanks for the informative videos.
I'm trying to choose between:
2010 w/123k and 1 owner with meticulous records at $10k or
2008 w/137k and 2 owners sporadic records at $8k
I won't be doing any of my own work except the most basic. Thoughts?
Thanks!!!!
Hi Amanda. I would take the 2010 123k with meticulous records. Drive it around 40mph and let go of the gas and make sure you don’t hear any rattling noises after you let go of the gas. I’d rather you buy a car with good service history than some service history. And even though it has good history I would still have a mechanic check it over before you buy it. 10k is a lot of money and you’d want to make sure you know the actual condition of the car at the moment before you buy it. Best wishes with your purchase.
@@TheCarCareNut thanks for the reply. I had it checked out by a mechanic and sure enough it had 4 major issues that you'd mentioned. Thx.
Glad you had it checked out. Plenty of siennas out there for sale. You’ll find one that has no issues or at least if buying one with a few issues you can negotiate the price and know ahead of time what it will take to fix them and how important they are.
Hi, thanks for your awesome videos!
I have a 2014 Sienna 3.5 that appears to leak oil from the valve cover in the front, not sure the back bank.
No any other issues or noises.
Not loosing any oil and 5-6 k oil changes regularly.
Shout I bee concern?
Good stuff sir! What in the engine specifically is harder for diy’ers in 07-10 vs 04-06?
Hi Dennis! Thank you for watching my video. So the way the engine sits in the car makes it difficult to work around. For example a belt tensioner is a massive job on that engine. A simple alternator replacement is complicated as well. While the 3.3L in the 2004-2006 you can do even head gaskets with it in the car the other 3.5L engine requires engine removal to fix a lot of common oil leaks on it making it less DIY friendly as most DIY mechanics don’t have access to a lift and usually work on jack stands
@@TheCarCareNut Tensioner and alternator on an 08 Caravan takes about an hour. And NO timing belt - that's the deal killer.
@@RRaucina 07+ sienna's have a timing chain ;-)
Dodge's suck.
@@TheCarCareNut 07 and 08 3.3 dodge caravans also had 3.3. and the 3.8 [same engine]
@@RRaucina comparing a chrystler with a toyota🤡
Great video, I’m based in Spain an we have here the Corolla Verso model not this one, I would like to buy one of those, you think they have the same problems?
Hi! Thank you for watching my video. I am not familiar with the corolla verso. Does it look similar?
I wish he gave a year recommendation
I mean. What can happen with the rear door to breake it. I was working under my van and had to take out some tools from the trunk. Trunk sure was left wide opened after that. It was really close to the backyard wooden fence (yes, it's that high). Than working I had to jack my front part a little higher and when I had done it, I hears some interesting noise coming from the rear end of my car. It was sure rear door struggling with the fence. Fence bent, the door didn't. God bless Toyota.
So according to this it sounds like I need to consider completely rehauling the the suspension and replacing the rack and pinion and radiator/trans cooler.
I figure what, 5k maybe? Ouch.
2004 190k. Going to look at it today, will check for rust and have a shop check it Monday....choices to make.
With regards to the 07 head gasket leaks. Is there an updated gasket, or is a block, head issue?
Great video. I know one thing.... I will stay the hell away from a Sienna! Thanks!
Funny you’ll just wind up with worse because every other van available is much worse
@@truthtimetv4575 I truly appreciate the education you provide. Because of your knowledge and experience, you know the good, bad and ugly of the Toyota brand. When it comes to "deep" engine issues, I shy away. I then looked at the Prius and found expensive repairs. I guess I will keep driving my 21 year old beast! :) As I said, you have great videos!
Thanks for making these videos. My rear passenger power sliding door opens electronically but will not close when pulling the handle or by buttons. Would that be a front latch issue? I don't remember what I did years ago (maybe spray with lubrication) it started to work again than stopped again. I would love to hear your thought s on this issue if possible.
Hi! It’s possible a rear latch. Will need some diagnosis to verify
Regarding the sliding door cable and motor breaking, can it be changed to the older manual/hand open and slide method? My wife would rather have that than deal with it breaking/not opening.
I like you more than Scotty now where are you located my friend if I buy one of these 2005 thank you for the great video are you Armenian by any chance
Hi! I’m in the Chicago area
Toyotas are notorious
Hi, again. As I told you before, I purchased a 2006 Siena XLE, back in April, with a 137k on the Odometer. It has a new timing belt and water pump. Before I do any summer road trips, I want to find out for sure about some common problems. I know the 2007 Sienna has a engine oil cooling line that attaches to the oil filter canister housing and that line is part metal an part rubber, unless it has been upgraded to metal only. I put my 2006 Sienna up on on jack stands today and got underneath and looked around. I see that my '06 Sienna has a traditional oil filter that screws into the front of the engine instead of a canister that screws into a housing underneath. Does the 2006 Sienna have the oil cooling line that is part metal and part rubber? I could not find it. Thanks for your help.
Hi! Your 2006 sienna doesn’t have the cooler line because it has the awesome 3.3L 3MZ engine. The cooler line was on the 2007 and up with the 3.5 2GR
@@TheCarCareNut Thank you!
My 2005 Sienna’s outer sliding door handles keep breaking. I’m thinking it’s either the lock mechanism by the inner sliding door handles, or the front or rear latches. Any thoughts how to troubleshoot what keeps breaking my outer sliding door handles?
Darn. My 04 only has 123K on it. Yes the doors stick when cold. The radiator was replaced by some extended warranty. The only things I do not really like about it is the placement of the oil filter and those darn rear spark plugs.
What about Honda odysseys? What’s the best year or years to buy one?
2004 Limited AWD, take foot off the gas going 20 to 40 miles per hour and you hear a clunk. Rear pinion support arm bushing replaced. Still a problem. Rotating drive shaft back and forth, does not appear to have play in universal joint but does have play going into front differential. What could it be? Thanks, love your videos. James
Hi I need some advice. My budget is 8k... I live in my vans (literally) and put a TON of miles on them (20-30 thousand a year) I'd like a toyota sienna...I was going to buy a 2010 for 8k with 135k miles on it but after watching your video I feem really unsure. I need something extremely reliable and mechanically easy to navigate. I thought a 2010 would be best because its newer and with a chain, but after reading your comments maybe an earlier year would be better? What do you think? Thank you!,
Hi! If you can find a very clean 2005-2006 they are more DIY friendly. The 2008 is good but less DIY friendly on the engine. Everything else is simple on all those vans
So what did you go for and how is it?
Between 1st and 2nd generation wich one is more reliable?
Should I repair a 2008 sienna with 170k miles that needs wheel bearings, shocks and sway bar links ? Everything else is working great
Hi! If the car otherwise is in good shape that’s not too much work
Your president is making sure EVERYTHING is more expensive.
It's not hard if you replace the entire knuckle assembly and the ball joint for the wheel bearing. I did this for both side and changed out inner and outer tie rods. Got alignment. So worth it. Rides so smooth and nice. Mine is a 2009 sienna with 240k miles. Also changed out the rotors/brake pads as well. Got loaner tools from Autozone. The rest from Harbor Freight.
Smack the rear doors at the top and bottom where water can come in and freeze
Also put silicone spray on all rubber parts. It helps.
Also if you have a problem still...if you have the auto doors....press the button on the head board. At your own risk.
sir! I've replaced one power steering pump already.
I have the opportunity to buy a 2006 XLE with under 40k miles. I was hoping for a 2011-13 model, but the low miles are so tempting!
Should I snag the '06? Worth the older car for those low low miles?
Hi! The 2006 is a good year to buy. Still inspect the car even with low mileage to make sure it was taken care of
2012 sienna my sliding doors on one side opens fine....when you try to close door tries to open further...any recommendations?
Hi! Likely the rear latch. There’s a special policy on this if you’re in the US. Contact your dealership as they may cover it for free
When I was growing up my dad had an early 2000s sienna, I think 01 maybe. What are some things to look out for from 2000-2003? I don’t remember too many issues aside from issues with the power door
These model minivans didn’t have much issues other than age issues. Oil leaks and rust is usually what makes people let these go. Also some of them had catalytic converter issues where the computer would have to be replaced. Power door issues were not as common but possible.
17:11 best year 2005 / 2006
I have a 08 and it has a circuit on the right side that's the circuit is gone and where is that
Thanks for the addendum to the owners manual. Note I DIY'd the sliding lock actuator motor $5 and did a great job but ..... the safety lock was on .... Oops
Exceedingly stupid query - can you retrofit the driver-side power sliding mechanism into an 04 LE? Same for the power lift mechanism?
I bought a single owner van from a known party so i knew all its problems (wheel bearing mostly). It had relatively low miles (170k), CA car (no rust) with 8 seat configuration (main reason we picked it up).
Not haivng the power tail and driver side is an issue since we got this as a kid carrier...i know its not "worth" the cost, but its cheaper than buying a new van for 60k, 😆
God bless you bro
I'm looking at an 07 with 192k for a $1000 should I get it? I'm going to look at it in person Next week
Be careful and check it against everything that I mentioned
@@TheCarCareNut thanks! I definitely will
Can you explain more about the ABS modulator? I get a soft peddle once in a while and I’ve changed the master cylinder and calipers already.
Likely it’s an ABS actuator. Randomly they tend to fail internally where they would stick and when they unstick they’d give that spongy pedal feel.
@@TheCarCareNut is there anyway to open the actuator and replace or repair it? Instead of buying a new one? Any advice?
I don’t really have experience with repairing ABS actuators. I would research online.
I have a 2012 sienna I have Done a tune upon it and it seems like it has a miss now and then shaved hooked it up and no codes are showing .
I forgot to mention it has over 2 hundred thousand miles on it.
Hello, My 2004 Sienna AWD XLE doors lock, then unlock in rapid succession for several minutes. Stops when you start engine. Thanks James
Update, in spring after cold snowy winter, I found the fob in the mud a foot away from the van. Problem solved.🤣
Anyone ever run into the traction control alarm being extremely sensitive? I have an ‘07 XLE and if I take a slight bend in the road going 40+mph it flashes and beeps at me. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
For those Sienna's with the rust problems unless they're from Southern States I'd stay away from them like the virus and I never heard of so many problems with the Toyota before though I never owned one of the Sienna's
would the abs actuator result in a fault code you could check?
How do you disable the power sliding doors
I just bought a 05 sienna with weird brake pedal feeling, the symptom is: first 70% of the brake travel, there is no braking force? but there is good braking force for the last 30% of travel. Is it the ABS module? thanks a lot
Hi! If the brakes are bled and have no air in the system it’s likely an abs actuator
@@TheCarCareNut Thanks so much for the quick reply. BTW I scanned the car with a fancy obd scanner there is no code. it seem that the non-electronic portion failure of the ABS module will now throw a ABS light or code on these cars, Is that a correct understanding?? Thanks again
That is correct
@@TheCarCareNut sorry had a typo by 'now' I mean 'not'... I am currently watching several of your toyota videos, very helpful!
What info do you have on the 2011 3.5liter Sienna? Also has Braunability ADA modifications.
This 2011 3.5 Toyota Sienna built in Indiana and sent to Braun Indiana for mods. Also all seats Pop out and has Ada driver controls.
I check the oil every other fill up. Change it every 3000 miles or less. It looks the same from old to new oil.
The only real problems our 2009 has had were all 3 front coils have failed twice each and the drivers side sliding door spit out it's cable at 88k. Dealer wanted $1700 to fix the door. I just cut the cable and use it manually. I'm hoping it gets totaled before I have to change the rear spark plugs.
just have a friend "steal" it and burn it in some abandoned area where no one will be harmed/nothing else will catch on fire. Boom, there's your insurance payout ;-)
Hi I’m in the chicago area and considering. Buying a 2004 with 206k miles. Extensive service record and drives fairly well. Would you be able to inspect it?
Hi! Yes email me with the subject Chicago service request
I'm avoiding ALL THESE PROBLEMS! I still drive my perfect 2002 Sienna XLE. Simplicity and engineering perfection! Cheap repairs and simple electronics. Not a problem in its 170,400 miles. Only two items on the whole car not working: one dashboard light on the left side and the power driver's side mirror. That's it! Paint is perfect. Leather is great. Power doors work like new. The timing belt changed at 85k miles. This model was from 1998 to 2003.
Watch the rear main beam support that carries both back wheels. It does rust and cause to buckle the wheel or might loose the whole wheel. It happened to my 2000 Sienna. It a common serious problem for that generation. Mine rusted at the wheel hob support
I do have a 2007 , it started to fail and sending the code for the ignition coil, but it was an intermittent failure, the mechanic recommended moving one coil to another place to see if the coil was the problem , apparently it was, I bought it and the van worked perfectly fine but only for a Day , then it started failing again . After that it started showing more codes for the oil sensors Abe cranksfhat position sensor , I took them to clean and it worked good, after time it started failing again, but the only recurrent code was the crankshaft position sensor (the coils not any more abs it have the original ones ), I bought the sensor but I couldn’t find where exactly it goes , the diagrams online said it is on the front by the belt but is not
Test your battery. Common for those to throw all kinds of random codes when the battery is weak especially the crankshaft position sensor code
How to test it if is brand new ?(I mean is giving the right voltage and nothing else is failing )