That's awesome. I'd love to see a guide(s) for various different finishes in fact. Like you said, no one ever seems to explain how to do stuff like this in detail and as a beginner it can get a little daunting trying to figure it out.
I agree. I am an artist rather than a blacksmith and the skill set is very different, so I do not have the machine background most blacksmiths do. I was trying to build a power hammer and for over a year I could not get anyone to tell me how large or how strong of a spring I needed for the linkage. I got a lot of lectures about how important power hammers are, but it took forever to finally get someone to answer a direct question.
I second that. That is my go to finish. Maybe melt and polish a little beez wax after that for a gloss. I have been playing around with super blue for blueing steel.It is producing good patina.Most importantly thank you for your time and videos.
Looks fantastic. I also generally do the same thing but with used motor oil for a darker finish. The key is not too hot and not too cold steel when applying the oil. It’s like baking it on the surface.
Nice video, thanks. I did this a different way this time. I used the "blacksmith's peanut butter" recipe (boiled linseed oil, turpentine, Johnson’s paste wax, beeswax, japan dryer) in an old pot. Then I threw the unfinished iron chain in my fire until it was really hot (parts of it were red) then took the chain out and threw it in the pot. Of course it burst into flame. I let it burn for a while and it was very smoky, good thick black smoke. I then but the lid on to extinguish the fire. When it was cool enough, I wiped it dry and hung it up. It took a lot less time but it was a bit messier.
Thanks so much for a great instructive video! I was looking for a way for finish some diy shelf brackets that I saw on Amazon that I decided to do myself. I didn't want to paint them and this finish is freaking awesome. Great job! Thanks for helping us diyers!
I have been using linseed oil 50/50 with turps for years which is a good protector to stop rust, the beeswax is what I was missing, a tool dealer here had this same coating on his tools but wouldn't give up his secret, I found if you apply the coating then heat it in an oven to bake it on, works nicely, so thanks.
Fantastic tutorial and exactly what I was looking for! Two questions for you if you don’t mind. 1. Does the heating process expedite the drying of the linseed oil? 2. Does the soaking of the piece expedite the drying and/or effect the final finish in any way?
Thank you for this helpful video! Just a question, will this stop rusting? If yes, for how long? I wanna use it to seal my metal sculptures. Also, can I spray clear coat over it? Sorry for the many questions. Thank you in advance!
I know it is not your job to educate people about what's on the product label, or to make them read the warnings, but an exception must be made when dealing with flax, or any other oils. So, for those reading along... DO NOT LEAVE RAGS SOAKED IN THE OIL WADDED UP ANYWHERE. They can and will spontaneously combust. The suggested method of disposal is to pack them in a can of water and seal them. This isn't really necessary. When you are done, go ahead and take them outside, wet them down with water and lay them out flat to dry, or better yet, hang them openly on a metal clothes line to dry. This greatly reduces the chance they will combust. As for boiled vs raw linseed oil, OSHA doesn't list any specific health issues on cobalt manganese salt, the product to speed up drying time for boiled linseed oil, but only because OSHA hasn't done any research on it. Nerve damage has been attributed to exposure, so for methods like this where you are seasoning instead of just painting on to let dry, raw would be a much safer product to use. :) Trust me on this. I have nerve damage due to long term exposure to a variety of products from decades of restoration work.
That's really nice, could you do some of those tongs one time please, the one your holding the S hook with, it has the bent nib on one of the tongs. You mentioned it in the first one when doing this S hook?
If you had a big batch of things to coat you could put them in the oven and turn it up to 450 for an hour. If you do that, use a food safe oil instead of BLO.
I dip/coat just after water droplets flash off the metal instantly (200-300), then coat with linseed, recycled car oil, olive oil, or beeswax -- depending on use of the piece of metal.
I feel the need to add something both for your benefit and viewers. While it's still called "boiled" linseed oil, it was once boiled to refine it and put it in a state that will polymerize, that mass production stuff instead has drying agents, chemicals and metals added that are riding that smoke straight into your lungs... I was carefree/careless for years also, until I found out the hard way how much it really sucks when your lungs don't want to do their job anymore and your nervous system is so poisoned you wind up with the strength of a 90 year old. Been a long hard recovery and a lot of missed shop time. Just sayin.
That's what I was going to say. Sorry to hear your story, best wishes. It really is a crime that there aren't better warnings. As stated above, unless your boiled linseed oil is specifically marketed as natural, without drying agents (lead and other heavy metals, which don't easily leave the body), then it should be used in a well ventilated area, and not heated or applied to hot metal. Personally, I recommend beeswax, which smiths "back in the day" surely would have used instead, had it been the (relative) price it is today.
He did a video in 2009 about a waterproofing/finishing mix. 1 part beeswax, melt in a pot, 1 part turps, stir in until mixed, 1/2 part boiled linseed oil, stir in. Makes a paste that he says will not discolor leather and dries very quickly. "Beeswax Coating for Metalsmiths".
Thank you Jerseyhighlander for this PPE warning. I'm a very recent smith and was taught always to use my PPE in the shop. If I am grinding or using any kind of chemical I will always wear my respirator. No matter what task I am doing I wear my leather apron, safety glasses and ear protection. Anything that involves heat I will also use my welding gloves. Steel toecaps are a must and I have all cotton clothes in case of sparks. I'm not a young man anymore and I have noticed that my eyesight and hearing are deteriorating, and I was an office worker for my working life! I can only imagine how much worse I might be if I had been some kind of tradesman. Everyone, no matter what their age should heed your kind warning. I hope that you make a full recovery and that your journey through illness has not been too hard on you. If it has been awful you have my sympathy and empathy sir. I hope that you can now get back to shop time for your own satisfaction.
hey ty, great insight into the process. I'm wondering if you can just dunk the whole piece into the pot of linseed oil and just let it sit to cool and get the same effect? maybe a follow up video showing the difference between your finish demonstrated here, and what it comes out looking like if you just submerge the hot piece in the BLO.
I have a question for you because the problem I’m having is I get it hot to when I touch the rag with linseed oil on it it’s a light smoke but after it leaves a greenish colored finish on it I’m not sure what it is I think it might be the fact that I’m using paper towels
great finish! very well explained. it was a little distracting to see the nice piece partially coated with what looked like borax from the top of the anvil. maybe clean off the top of the anvil before? Otherwise excellent.
Through the years I have bought old farm tools and wheels. Some are too large for a fire. One of them is an old grain scale. I used a nice product which gave it a sheen but it was only temporary. Could I heat the scale with a torch and apply the finish in small areas as I heat. Or could I use the boiled l.o turpentie and beeswax recipe you recommended in another video and heat the finish onto the metal? Thank you
Great video! Did you make the rings used at 4:00, or purchase them from somewhere? I am missing a tendon in the thumb on my tong hand and those would help greatly! 🙏🏻😊
Do you not have a brush for cleaning your anvil? My grandfather was a blacksmith and told my brother and i to always clean the anvil before you start anything else. Nice job and finish on the S hook.
Exactly. Pretty sloppy especially considering this was done for an instructional video. Why not take the few seconds necessary to brush that crap off the anvil?
Hey can you explain the rings on the end of your tongs! I am a novice....I recently spent a day with my local group of blacksmiths at a historic site with a forge. Thanks👍
I'm certainly no blacksmith and am surprised nobody answered your question- so I'll take a stab at it. They're for putting on the end of the handles so the tongs keep a grip on the work. They are different sizes to accommodate different thicknesses of work. Hope this helps, G.
thanks for your nice video! You are a great and entertaining teacher. Can you use other types of veg oils than linseed? It's just quite a lot more expensive than say rapeseed or sunflower etc
Just wondering if it would be alright to heat the piece in an oven around 400-450 and then rub with oil? I'm looking to make a large batch of skewers and thought the oven would be more time efficient if it's a possibility.
We use that method for doing batches. Rub it down first, cook for about 45 mins and repeat until you get the desired finish. Three of four coats yield a really thick and black coating.
Tried this for the first time on a fire poker I made out of 1/2 in. square stock. Did good on the ends but kinda gummed up in the middle. What did I do wrong? Should I have cleaned it more with a wire wheel before applying or was it just not hot enough. Thanks in advance!
All I have to say is as a woodworker who has used B.L.O. in the past is please do not use it on anything like pots, pans, or anything contacting food. Old school B.L.O. would be fine but modern day sold in store oil contains additives to speed up drying which makes it toxic. For food items stick to any cooking oil but olive. Olive tends to make an ungodly sticky mess.
Lenseed oil is flax oil. Just make sure it is 100% boiled lenseed oil. Or just pure lenseed oil possibly (thinner takes a really long time to dry). As stated there are "boiled lenseed oils" that are not boiled at all. they have chemicals added to quicken drying time and are not food safe. Make sure you know what you are buying. Real boiled is probably more expensive due to production time.
ehhhhh, still not there because the old browning was done in a box with a wet rag to humidify the air. "Plum Browning" that you buy now has to be applied with heat.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[2/2] เมาท์มอยกับ 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้ ที่พร้อมขยี้พ่อหมีได้ทุกเมื่อ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wwn7WnylNtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
"Now this does smoke* *cough* * so wear the proper respiratory protection *cough*"
Lol! Love it
Nice video. Great tip.
That's awesome. I'd love to see a guide(s) for various different finishes in fact. Like you said, no one ever seems to explain how to do stuff like this in detail and as a beginner it can get a little daunting trying to figure it out.
Thats what we are here for!
I agree. I am an artist rather than a blacksmith and the skill set is very different, so I do not have the machine background most blacksmiths do. I was trying to build a power hammer and for over a year I could not get anyone to tell me how large or how strong of a spring I needed for the linkage. I got a lot of lectures about how important power hammers are, but it took forever to finally get someone to answer a direct question.
I second that. That is my go to finish. Maybe melt and polish a little beez wax after that for a gloss. I have been playing around with super blue for blueing steel.It is producing good patina.Most importantly thank you for your time and videos.
This answers a question presented to me by my 4-H Blacksmithing project kids on how to get a good finish on their projects thanks.
Looks fantastic. I also generally do the same thing but with used motor oil for a darker finish. The key is not too hot and not too cold steel when applying the oil. It’s like baking it on the surface.
Nice video, thanks. I did this a different way this time. I used the "blacksmith's peanut butter" recipe (boiled linseed oil, turpentine, Johnson’s paste wax, beeswax, japan dryer) in an old pot. Then I threw the unfinished iron chain in my fire until it was really hot (parts of it were red) then took the chain out and threw it in the pot. Of course it burst into flame. I let it burn for a while and it was very smoky, good thick black smoke. I then but the lid on to extinguish the fire. When it was cool enough, I wiped it dry and hung it up. It took a lot less time but it was a bit messier.
Thanks so much for a great instructive video! I was looking for a way for finish some diy shelf brackets that I saw on Amazon that I decided to do myself. I didn't want to paint them and this finish is freaking awesome. Great job! Thanks for helping us diyers!
This is awesome, I've been looking for a traditional finish for our hardware line. Thanks !!!!!
Oh yeah, I know how I'm finishing the machete I'm gonna start on tomorrow, that's gorgeous
thank you sir, I'm getting a lot out of your videos. always looking forward to your next one.
Sure Thing!
I have been using linseed oil 50/50 with turps for years which is a good protector to stop rust, the beeswax is what I was missing, a tool dealer here had this same coating on his tools but wouldn't give up his secret, I found if you apply the coating then heat it in an oven to bake it on, works nicely, so thanks.
Love the black iron and finish!
my next trip through I'd love to stop at your forge and pick up a few tips. i enjoy the videos, keep it up.
We are here all week!
That's a good looking finish! I still use the recipe you gave in one of your old videos, the beeswax, boiled linseed oil, and turpentine.
Love that stuff!
Nice finish. Great workmanship
Cheers for that . I was told about the veg oil .but haven't used it won't bother now .thanks for the reply
Great video... easy to follow steps - thanks~
Thank you for the video and demonstration, First rate all the way....
Man your a good teacher. Nice and clear. Thanks. I've subscribed.
I really like that finish. Thank you.
You crack me up. Great video as always.
Awesome video! Thanks bud
Great video I love that finish
lovely finish will have a go at this
really nice finish, thumbs up!
Looks great.
Thanks for the demo!
My OCD was kicking in with the borax on the anvil. Looks good though. I brush it on and bake it in the oven for an hour.
I admit I really like the way the BLO looks but I am also a big fan of Bees Wax and BLO mix.
Thanks. Very good info.
thanks for your videos.
Fantastic tutorial and exactly what I was looking for! Two questions for you if you don’t mind.
1. Does the heating process expedite the drying of the linseed oil?
2. Does the soaking of the piece expedite the drying and/or effect the final finish in any way?
I like that.
This is fascinating
Thank you for this helpful video! Just a question, will this stop rusting? If yes, for how long? I wanna use it to seal my metal sculptures.
Also, can I spray clear coat over it?
Sorry for the many questions. Thank you in advance!
I know it is not your job to educate people about what's on the product label, or to make them read the warnings, but an exception must be made when dealing with flax, or any other oils. So, for those reading along...
DO NOT LEAVE RAGS SOAKED IN THE OIL WADDED UP ANYWHERE. They can and will spontaneously combust. The suggested method of disposal is to pack them in a can of water and seal them. This isn't really necessary. When you are done, go ahead and take them outside, wet them down with water and lay them out flat to dry, or better yet, hang them openly on a metal clothes line to dry. This greatly reduces the chance they will combust.
As for boiled vs raw linseed oil, OSHA doesn't list any specific health issues on cobalt manganese salt, the product to speed up drying time for boiled linseed oil, but only because OSHA hasn't done any research on it. Nerve damage has been attributed to exposure, so for methods like this where you are seasoning instead of just painting on to let dry, raw would be a much safer product to use. :) Trust me on this. I have nerve damage due to long term exposure to a variety of products from decades of restoration work.
Great video. Question. How long does that hold up outside near a beach house?
That's really nice, could you do some of those tongs one time please, the one your holding the S hook with, it has the bent nib on one of the tongs. You mentioned it in the first one when doing this S hook?
If you had a big batch of things to coat you could put them in the oven and turn it up to 450 for an hour. If you do that, use a food safe oil instead of BLO.
great video!!!
Thank you for the video !
I dip/coat just after water droplets flash off the metal instantly (200-300), then coat with linseed, recycled car oil, olive oil, or beeswax -- depending on use of the piece of metal.
Wow ! Thank you ! - Now , - just need to figure a way of heating up the '53 Chevy Club Coupe rat rod to 500 degrees without warping my c.d.'s.
So simple and so handsome.
I feel the need to add something both for your benefit and viewers. While it's still called "boiled" linseed oil, it was once boiled to refine it and put it in a state that will polymerize, that mass production stuff instead has drying agents, chemicals and metals added that are riding that smoke straight into your lungs... I was carefree/careless for years also, until I found out the hard way how much it really sucks when your lungs don't want to do their job anymore and your nervous system is so poisoned you wind up with the strength of a 90 year old. Been a long hard recovery and a lot of missed shop time. Just sayin.
Jerseyhighlan
That's what I was going to say. Sorry to hear your story, best wishes. It really is a crime that there aren't better warnings. As stated above, unless your boiled linseed oil is specifically marketed as natural, without drying agents (lead and other heavy metals, which don't easily leave the body), then it should be used in a well ventilated area, and not heated or applied to hot metal. Personally, I recommend beeswax, which smiths "back in the day" surely would have used instead, had it been the (relative) price it is today.
He did a video in 2009 about a waterproofing/finishing mix. 1 part beeswax, melt in a pot, 1 part turps, stir in until mixed, 1/2 part boiled linseed oil, stir in. Makes a paste that he says will not discolor leather and dries very quickly. "Beeswax Coating for Metalsmiths".
Thank you Jerseyhighlander for this PPE warning. I'm a very recent smith and was taught always to use my PPE in the shop. If I am grinding or using any kind of chemical I will always wear my respirator. No matter what task I am doing I wear my leather apron, safety glasses and ear protection. Anything that involves heat I will also use my welding gloves. Steel toecaps are a must and I have all cotton clothes in case of sparks. I'm not a young man anymore and I have noticed that my eyesight and hearing are deteriorating, and I was an office worker for my working life! I can only imagine how much worse I might be if I had been some kind of tradesman. Everyone, no matter what their age should heed your kind warning. I hope that you make a full recovery and that your journey through illness has not been too hard on you. If it has been awful you have my sympathy and empathy sir. I hope that you can now get back to shop time for your own satisfaction.
Cool 😎
Liked your finish as opposed to just bee's wax
hey ty, great insight into the process. I'm wondering if you can just dunk the whole piece into the pot of linseed oil and just let it sit to cool and get the same effect? maybe a follow up video showing the difference between your finish demonstrated here, and what it comes out looking like if you just submerge the hot piece in the BLO.
Not going to work! You will not get the right finish if you just dunk. It needs several thinner coats to build up that dark "patina"
If you dunk, you get no oxygen to create the burn (dark finish). As described below, best to apply thin layers.
I like the finish, would this work at say 392*F on a knife blade thats coming out of tempering
Im sure it would.
I have a question for you because the problem I’m having is I get it hot to when I touch the rag with linseed oil on it it’s a light smoke but after it leaves a greenish colored finish on it I’m not sure what it is I think it might be the fact that I’m using paper towels
Use a pure cotton rag and see what happens, like an old tshirt.
Is BLO food safe? Can I finish a spoon or bowl with it? If not, what’s a good alternative?
Can this be done on cast iron furniture? I was told bees wax or Johnson paste wax.
can you do the fire pit the same way? suggestions on getting the big pit hot for this process.
You mentioned "it takes a while to dry"... how long before the piece is FULLY dry with the BLO finish?
great finish! very well explained. it was a little distracting to see the nice piece partially coated with what looked like borax from the top of the anvil. maybe clean off the top of the anvil before? Otherwise excellent.
Man, and here I was looking to get it all right. Guess I better go back and practice some more!
Through the years I have bought old farm tools and wheels. Some are too large for a fire. One of them is an old grain scale. I used a nice product which gave it a sheen but it was only temporary. Could I heat the scale with a torch and apply the finish in small areas as I heat. Or could I use the boiled l.o turpentie and beeswax recipe you recommended in another video and heat the finish onto the metal?
Thank you
Great video! Did you make the rings used at 4:00, or purchase them from somewhere? I am missing a tendon in the thumb on my tong hand and those would help greatly! 🙏🏻😊
Thank you
Nice work with the linseed oil and forge! BTW, how much does your anvil weigh? thank you.
Can I paint the oil on and then put it in an old toaster oven?
Does raw linseed oil work?
Can I do this with motor oil?
Do you not have a brush for cleaning your anvil? My grandfather was a blacksmith and told my brother and i to always clean the anvil before you start anything else.
Nice job and finish on the S hook.
Exactly. Pretty sloppy especially considering this was done for an instructional video. Why not take the few seconds necessary to brush that crap off the anvil?
When you do your video, you can keep your anvil as clean as you want to. Then I can sit in my armchair and play youtube sniper for your performance.
@@purgatoryironworks yah yah nice excuse for being a slob.
What is the powder on your anvil? It looks like some kind of weld compound.
Yep, borax. The pot was sitting in a pan of borax
Great video. How good is the rust resistance of this finish? Would it be suitable for say, tools used/stored outdoors?
DopeItUp I would like to know the same. In my country, people do not like rust on steel objects.
Any update on the rust aspect?
Is this food safe? I'm working on a knife and looking for a food safe finish that won't trigger nut allergies
For a perfectly safe finish, use flaxseed oil instead of linseed oil.
Great finish I use it alot....On a side note where do you find your background music ??
freeplay music
Thanks
why didnt he clean the anvil first?
Hey can you explain the rings on the end of your tongs! I am a novice....I recently spent a day with my local group of blacksmiths at a historic site with a forge. Thanks👍
I'm certainly no blacksmith and am surprised nobody answered your question- so I'll take a stab at it. They're for putting on the end of the handles so the tongs keep a grip on the work. They are different sizes to accommodate different thicknesses of work. Hope this helps, G.
ghostses yes it dose thanks
Good deal! Take care, G.
thanks for your nice video! You are a great and entertaining teacher. Can you use other types of veg oils than linseed? It's just quite a lot more expensive than say rapeseed or sunflower etc
Just wondering if it would be alright to heat the piece in an oven around 400-450 and then rub with oil? I'm looking to make a large batch of skewers and thought the oven would be more time efficient if it's a possibility.
We use that method for doing batches. Rub it down first, cook for about 45 mins and repeat until you get the desired finish. Three of four coats yield a really thick and black coating.
will this work on high carbon steel? will the finish stay if I heat threat it afterwards?
will this finish hold up to being out doors for a long time?
So how much would you typically sell these hooks for?
Tried this for the first time on a fire poker I made out of 1/2 in. square stock. Did good on the ends but kinda gummed up in the middle. What did I do wrong? Should I have cleaned it more with a wire wheel before applying or was it just not hot enough. Thanks in advance!
If it gummed up you put it on too thick.
purgatoryironworks got it. thanks
Does this work on stainless as well?
yessir
When coated, could it still rust?
What was the white junk on the anvil?
What's that white stuff on the anvil, you wouldn't want that on your finish would ya?
could you quench the hook in the BLO then wipe off the excess, instead of wiping it on?
It doesnt give the desired effect, several thin coat cooking on is what gives that finish
Almost like seasoning a cast iron pan.
Could you just heat the hook in hot oil?
The finish wont stay, you have to bake it on.
Was it raining?
Good against rust?
does this finish hold up well for out door wares? would this leave marks on clothing if I used it to finish coat hooks?
Should not leave any marks if done properly. Just make sure its "dry"
"bold linseed ol" lol
Hey man... I am starting at the trade yet. But... why do those S hooks sell so well in the USA?? Hahahah I am from Brazil and see no use for it yet...
Wealthy White People :)
wtf hahah o.O
if you didn't have Bolens weed oil with vegetable oil work
nope.
boold linseed ool
All I have to say is as a woodworker who has used B.L.O. in the past is please do not use it on anything like pots, pans, or anything contacting food. Old school B.L.O. would be fine but modern day sold in store oil contains additives to speed up drying which makes it toxic. For food items stick to any cooking oil but olive. Olive tends to make an ungodly sticky mess.
flax seed works great but is kinda expensive and its food grade
charles curtius Yeah. Flax is probably one of your much better options due to it's extremely high smoking temp compared to say canola.
i never tried anything else dad always used flax seed oil on the grill and linseed on all his tools
charles curtius Proper choice if I do say so myself. I see most people using crisco on cast iron though. Not my choice but meh.
Lenseed oil is flax oil. Just make sure it is 100% boiled lenseed oil. Or just pure lenseed oil possibly (thinner takes a really long time to dry). As stated there are "boiled lenseed oils" that are not boiled at all. they have chemicals added to quicken drying time and are not food safe. Make sure you know what you are buying. Real boiled is probably more expensive due to production time.
Is the steel rusty?
Not after the finish.
It was when you put the oil on though. It just seals it in after?
why not dip it in the oil?
It doesnt cook right
What's your best selling metal work? Decorative?
all i can focus on is that dirty powder on the anvil..WIPE IT OFF!!! my ocd is triggered
sort of the same as browning finish on gun barrels.
not really, browning is a rusting process, this is closer to painting, perhaps powder coating
I meant the same as in the heating of the metal to have the browning applied.
ehhhhh, still not there because the old browning was done in a box with a wet rag to humidify the air. "Plum Browning" that you buy now has to be applied with heat.
thats the one I used last time
Cheap vegetable oil works just as well
No sir. Not at all. Vegetable oil doesnt dry, its just gets sticky.
+purgatoryironworks. I've never had a sticky piece using vegetable oil. I use it on all my pieces.
"Vegetable oil" could be any number of things. Corn oil, soybean, etc. That could explain this variability.
I do the same except with beeswax. Although I think the BLO leaves a much neater and cleaner finish. Let alone probably cheaper.