@saltfan2 when it asks for how many colors just put a smaller number. It really depends on the design, you may not be able to make it look good with too few colors. Index doesn't lend itself to every design. Simulated process works better when you've got a lot of colors or flesh tones.
@phatsam88 I'd recommend a 230 to 305 mesh screen. Also to keep the colors consistent I'd use the same mesh for all the colors. You can go to 125 dpi and probably get away with maybe a 200 mesh screen. It also depends on what type of emulsion and light source you're using. We used 'Kiwo Polysol one coat' on a 255 mesh screen with a 5k light with good results.
Yeah, anytime you have a photo real design that you need to get secondary and complimentary colors you'll have to use either simulated process, true process or index. The first two blend colors on press to get secondary colors. Index is more of an optical illusion. The colors don't blend, it's just the dither dot pattern that makes it look like there are more colors that there are. The basketball design is just a straight forward spot print. no gradients or dot patterns.
Yep, convert the channels to spot colors and save as a DCS 2.0 file. Open AI and place (not open) the file into a new doc. Then you can add text etc.... check out the other video I did it goes into this in more detail.
Thanks for tutorial, really helpful. Why only 150dpi though? I tend to do most my artworks at 300dpi for print, is 150dpi the maximum resolution for this kind of separation?
The reason why we're getting the wrong colors after all steps are finished is because we need to check "INVERT" when we are at the SELECT>COLOR RANGE part of this tutorial.
Great tutorial but there's something I'm not doing right. I have a textile floral design and when I go through all the steps I end up with a gray image. Would you know what I'm doing wrong?
I don't no what went wrong...cuz it did't work with my cs3...i already step by step like u show in this tutorial but it still dint work like you are show....Can u tell me why?What i did wrong....
I think there's a missing step you forgot to tell us....I only tried it on a jpeg file...and did everything you say...but I got this weird images, every channel has a solid color on it, same spot color but just plain solid not even a hint of the main picture...what's went wrong?
@saltfan2 when it asks for how many colors just put a smaller number. It really depends on the design, you may not be able to make it look good with too few colors. Index doesn't lend itself to every design. Simulated process works better when you've got a lot of colors or flesh tones.
@phatsam88 I'd recommend a 230 to 305 mesh screen. Also to keep the colors consistent I'd use the same mesh for all the colors. You can go to 125 dpi and probably get away with maybe a 200 mesh screen. It also depends on what type of emulsion and light source you're using. We used 'Kiwo Polysol one coat' on a 255 mesh screen with a 5k light with good results.
Yeah, anytime you have a photo real design that you need to get secondary and complimentary colors you'll have to use either simulated process, true process or index. The first two blend colors on press to get secondary colors. Index is more of an optical illusion. The colors don't blend, it's just the dither dot pattern that makes it look like there are more colors that there are. The basketball design is just a straight forward spot print. no gradients or dot patterns.
wew.....nice tutorial......tnx for sharing,,,,
Hi, thank you for your video. Why didn't you create underbase? Why didn't you check "Invert" at the part of this tutorial?
At the end, go to image > adjustment > invert
this step is crucial, thanks for the comment.
@@XLUSIV do you do that on the index or the channels?
Awesome video. Very helpful. Thank you.
Great job, new technique for me :)
Yep, convert the channels to spot colors and save as a DCS 2.0 file. Open AI and place (not open) the file into a new doc. Then you can add text etc.... check out the other video I did it goes into this in more detail.
Good bro im screenprint from indonesia
Thanks for tutorial, really helpful. Why only 150dpi though? I tend to do most my artworks at 300dpi for print, is 150dpi the maximum resolution for this kind of separation?
great tutorial.just a quick question:
so you would use this for more of a picture or a design that isnt like the BASKETBALL tutorial, right?
@filmdirectonline how would i make an underbase for this? Or is index spes not good on designs that required an underbase?
The reason why we're getting the wrong colors after all steps are finished is because we need to check "INVERT" when we are at the SELECT>COLOR RANGE part of this tutorial.
Thanks
Great tutorial but there's something I'm not doing right. I have a textile floral design and when I go through all the steps I end up with a gray image. Would you know what I'm doing wrong?
what if I select the color in the palete but in selective color does not show a selection, Should I move the fuzzines?
Yep, It's CS3
For some reason i had to reverse my selection to get my pieces. why is that?
when i try to view all my seps at once a pinkish color keeps on adding to the image instead of the actual swatch colors...why please answer
I don't no what went wrong...cuz it did't work with my cs3...i already step by step like u show in this tutorial but it still dint work like you are show....Can u tell me why?What i did wrong....
Looks like it might be an infoormative tutorial, but I can't understand the voice recording.
Uh... was I supposed to invert those selections? It does come out right...
I think there's a missing step you forgot to tell us....I only tried it on a jpeg file...and did everything you say...but I got this weird images, every channel has a solid color on it, same spot color but just plain solid not even a hint of the main picture...what's went wrong?
Looks like CS3.
no idea....need more info.
no, I'd leave the fuzziness to zero.