Haha it’s actually not that bad. Especially on weekdays where per session of climbing/gym is only 45 minutes long because I am doing it on lunch break.
@@GeekClimber I was surprised too when you described climbing or lifting every weekday at noon. In my experience it takes me about 30min to warm up and get into the flow of climbing hard, how do you manage 45 minute sessions?
Well, Thursday seems more like mobility and stretching, and Saturday is a cardio flush. High frequency short climbing sessions are also a good option over two long high intensity climbing sessions
@@SlavaKim This is a bit late, but the reason is likely daily activity. Even just one day of sitting and not engaging the muscles you use in climbing can be extremely noticeable.
@Димитър Иванов Just so you know I am not paid a single dime by REM-Fit. I reached out to climbing brands to ask for sponsorships but I get rejected every single time despite my sizable sub counts. They are only interested in sponsoring strong pro/semi-pro athletes. I discovered REM-Fit and it works really well for me, so I joined their affiliate program in hopes of making some money from commissions by recommending it to the viewers to compensate for my own efforts of making the video. So far the sales are ..... zero. How about this, if you can negotiate a pro-athlete-like sponsorship from major climbing brands for my channel, I will give you a cut, deal?
Yes you are right. Doing the same thing again and again and expecting different results doesn't make sense. Gotta switch it up when things are not working!
HELL YEAH MAN HAHA, you’ve got me addicted to climbing. I’ve never had the full motivation to go to the gym or workout just due to the monotony of moving weights but now I have a puzzle to figure out and I can’t get enough. Love your stuff and cheers from Australia.
I started bouldering in mid-December. Couldn't hang on for more than ten seconds to save my life, with even V1s being difficult. Watched your videos and started improving and sent my one of my problem V1s last week without expecting to nail it, and my other problem is now down to my technique rather than my arm stamina. Thanks :)
@@Limbaugh_ A throwback! Unfortunately, I did injure one of my tendons from overuse, and then our local climbing gym closed real quick when COVID started so I wasn't able to go for much of 2020/2021. I have been staying in shape with other exercise though. I might take a spin again after this Omicron surge blows over. Definitely want to do it again.
It's amazing that I can see your progress as an audience, your muscle, your posture, and your climbing look very different from your early video. It's interesting to see those change side-by-side and it is really motivating. Great job Geek Climber!
I just watched some of my old videos and I agree with you. It’s amazing how much I’ve changed throughout such a short period of time! Thanks for being one of the early supporters!
Congratulations, my friend. Hard work and focus pay off. I'll be looking for my first V5 sometime this year if I can get some injuries sorted out. Wish me luck!
Quite motivating effort dude! I m on a similiar mission right now after a 10 year climbing break. I m 43 now and last week i climbed my first 7a in kalymnos. My goal is 8a before i get 50. Its a long way...haha!
I started climbing less than 2 months ago and developed a passion instantly for it. I have been an athlete all my life training athletics for 10 years and on my first day climbing I did a 5A. Now after climbing 2-3 days a week for about a month and a half I climbed several 6Bs indoor, from what I've seen this is abnormal and has made me really excited about the sport... Idk why I felt the need to share this but I'm just extremely excited about it
Same i have very strong pulling, after doing calisthenics, so on my first day of climbing i climb 6A. Is so fun and fits me. Im excited to do this sport seriously
hey man just wondering how you got on in your climbing journey or if you gave up ?, i'm in a similar position i've almost been climbing 4 months and just did my first 7a, many thanks
Soon to be a 38 year old here who has climbed for 13 months now. Got my first V5, albeit on a highly compressed/right slab route. Slowly wiggling out of the V3-V4 plateau. But for most people worried about staying in the same grade forever, the beginning part V-scale is not quite linear. Don't lose heart, you might be making progress. Throw the grades in the trash and enjoy the journey.
@@GeekClimber Thanks, you are kind of in the middle - could work, or not. Your call if you really can fully recover. Most people who train, train too much.
Wow! Great job! I’ve been stuck in v4 land forever (age is not helping!), but your ideas are wonderful. I’m going to give them a try. Maybe a 5 is in my future. 💪
You got it, man! I am also so old that an usual professional athlete at my age would have been already down the hill. For us old climbers, I believe recovery is even more important.
There is a group of climbers in the gym I go to that are probably from 45-60 years old and those guys are always working v6 and v7 routes. There's hope for all of us!
I've been climbing for six months now. My height is 5ft 8in compared to my weight 176lb , so I've had about 3 injuries. And I didn't want to get hurt again. It was also strange to see that the regulars who have been coming to the climbing gym for years have stayed on the V4. However, watching your video has solved the mystery. As soon as I built my own pull-up machine in my house and started doing it, I was able to do more tasks in the gym without putting in too much effort than before. Your videos have helped me a lot. Thank you very much from Japan.
Motivating as well as demotivating. You have to train everyday to go from V5 to V7s lol. I've been at V5s for 5 years, I can probably climb V6s on my best days and a V7 suited to my style/body. I don't think I could ever train everyday for just another grade or two, props to you for this I guess. I'm doing recovery and mobility work as well right now.. nothing pays off more than this at this level.
It's actually not that bad. For me the activities on weekdays are all less than an hour. Since I climb during lunch break each session is only around 45 minutes. Even the swimming on Saturday is only about an hour. Sunday is the only day in a week that requires 3 hours. You can do this man!
You definitely don't need to train everyday, it's just one of the ways to do it. I started bouldering 11 months ago, I train twice a week and I'm currently at V8. Both sessions are a bit over 2 hours and consists of 30 min warm-up + 80 min limit bouldering + 30 min pull-ups, core and stretching in the end. By limit bouldering I mean working on problems where I can only do 1-2 moves at a time. Then start linking those moves into being able to do first half and the last half separately and finally (after multiple sessions) sending the problem.
I think that to stop any plato, whether in life or climbing, you just need to change something. In case of climbing, you can change your workout routine, have a healthier life or even something as trivial as going to another climbing wall or climbing with a rope instead of bouldering etc.
To be fair, they weren’t expecting me to fly off the wall that badly because a few earlier tries weren’t like that, but I agree they could have been extra cautious about getting off the mats.
i haven't been climbing a long time but i can relate when it took me 5 or 6 years to learn how to do 3 diabolos/chinese yoyos. in that case there wasn't any specific training, just trying over and over again until i figured it out.
Sleeping and massage sounds good and all but what did it help you to deal with overstrained fingers? This interests me quite a bit. I have only recently broke through a plateau myself being able to climb V4 consistently now but the hard attempts came at the price of a tendovaginitis and swollen finger joints. Only way to deal with this was for me to give them time to heal and to tune down the training a notch. would be supergrateful for sharing your experience with me.
I know what you are talking about. I had the same feeling before. I think you are over using your fingers because you aren’t offloading the pressure to bigger muscles. Once you start doing it, you will feel to soreness and see the value in mobility exercises and foam rolling. It’s a bit abstract on how that’s being done. Try to grip as lightly as you could with your fingers and engage your bigger muscles. Hope that helps.
I had to make that disclaimer there because I met so many talented people in the gym that cruise pass V6-7 like nothing. These people won’t understand my struggles haha.
I’m new to climbing, any advice on how to prevent my hands from getting big blisters? Is it just natural and my skin has to get used to the strains or is there a secret formula? Appreciate any answers!
MiMiXis I know the feeling from experience. It never really stops but later on your skin will be really tough. It wont hurt so much anymore. Few tips: always use chalk so your hands are not that sweaty, use some lotion after climbing session. And last but not least you should optimize your grip style on each hold to prevent slipping from them and injuring your skin even more (especially slopers and big jugs).
So basically... You got real. Nice one! I'd recommend reading / listening to Joshua Waizkin and his book "The Art of Learning". I think one can apply his advice very nicely to climbing since you can focus on efficiency of movement. He also emphasizes rest & recovery.
Dude you should look up "Yuri Marmerstein band routine" for shoulders mobility. Highly praised in the movement community. Also for anyone wondering you don't need expensive mattress. I sleep on a 1 1/2 inch matress and i've never felt better with my back and recovery ever since. Investigate it :)
I got the beta from a strong climber friend but it still took me around 40 tries in multiple days combined to do that. The crimps are very hard to hold onto for me so I had to position my body and feet very precisely in order to minimize the burn. It took me a while to figure out the right amount to jump for the dynamic moves as well.
I notice that you bought the REM-fit Sleep 400, whose description states that it is best for side-sleepers due to its softness. However, you demonstrate it lying on your back, and make it seem like a firm mattress. Wouldn't it have been better to get a 500 or 300?
The REM-fit Sleep 400 is actually a lot firmer than the soft mattress I used to slept on, so it works for me. If you have already been sleeping on a firm mattress and are used to it, definitely get the 500 or 300.
Yes I always felt like my fingers are on the verge of getting injured, but then I learned that increasing shoulder strength/mobility actually reduces the load off my fingers when climbing. I climb during lunch break on weekdays so it's typically only around 45 mins. As for the one on Sunday it's 2.5 hours.
@@GeekClimber Very interesting. That's not a lot of time climbing. I'd be interested in seeing what your climbing routine is. Do you spend a lot of time warming up, do you do ARC training, do you climb at just under your limit, do you do limit bouldering, etc.
@Richard Doan On weekdays I spend around 15~20 mins warming up on V0/V1/V2, and after that if I feel good I will give my V7 project 2~3 tries and if not I will just work on V5/V6. On Sundays I spend 30~40 mins to warm up on V0/V1/V2, another 30~40 mins on V3/V4 to hone in my technique which the goal is to make climbing each V3/V4 feel as effortless as possible, and then go straight to my V7 project full force till my forearms or fingers become too tired to make any progress.
I recently got to v7s myself but then one of my fingers started hurting. Got some tips from your videos, thanks! Nearly injuring your fingers is the worst feeling, cause you need to rest and recover. Any tips on recovering besides resting and not climbing?
I can totally relate to what you are talking about. What I learned that helped was increasing shoulder strength and mobility helps reducing the load off the fingers when climbing. I am also in the middle of going through this course www.aimadventureu.com/courses/strength-training-for-injury-prevention. There's a section dedicated to finger injuries. I will let you know if I discover anything that works for me.
I recommend progressive loading on a hangboard as well as antagonistic exercises and refining techniques of attending to feet and open handing holds. This breaks scarred tissue from small tears, encourages growth of strong tissue, reduces likelihood and/or damage from chronic inflammation, and helps prevent excessive and unnecessary loading of the pulleys. Also, increased consumption of omega-3 and vitamin c appears to offer a benefit for ligament development.
Could you make a video dedicated to helping with slopers? I have been a little stuck getting into V4 because of how many slopers they have, so a video on that would be greatly appreciated.
I will add it to my to-do list! For V4 slope routes, it’s most about precise footwork. The slopes are so crappy that you need to put as much as your weight on your feet to hold on to the slopes. Another thing is it’s mostly the wrist that is engaged in holding on to the slopes instead of your fingers.
@@henwill8 Focus on being as low as possible under the hold. Exaggerate the feeling of really sitting down under every hold and you will immediately feel the hold improve.
Congrats dude. Hard work does pay off!! Ive recently attempted using the moon board and posted a video of it. Any tips on how to improve cause it was way harder than i anticipated. Thanks in advance!
Thanks! I don't think I am qualified to give tips about moon boards. I will try and get an expert to be my guest to talk about moon boards in the future!
i'm stuck on V4 on 1.5 years and right arm elbow has injury inside, they call it golfer/climber elbow. And it's been a year and it is still not recovered. Everytime I climb or hang or pull, it hurts. Do you have some tips to get it cured? thanks
Congratulations 🎊 well done 👏 (small note; to finish a Boulder problem you are supposed to place both hands on the top hold and demonstrate that you are in control before letting go... Grabbing the ledge of the wall is a bad habbit 😉) Stay brilliant 🌟
Idk if im talented, but within my 5th time climbing I completed just one v6, all the other v6s are wayy too hard for me. Yet it surprises me just how hard it is for most people.
I should’ve asked Paul about this when I had the chance. Since you are plateauing at pretty much the same grade as I was, I think you can try the workout plan Paul gave to me. Also definitely focus on recovery and mobility exercises. It should help.
Yes, partially because of the high strength to weight ratio, and also since their muscles are still developing, it's a lot easier for their muscles to adapt to the intensity of climbing.
I totally feel you man! Gyms tend to put the harder part of the climb at the bottom so people won’t be constantly falling from the top. You should totally try moves in the middle part of the climb first!
You definitely got stronger man but you can't really claim a V7 send until it's outdoors, preferably at a well-developed area. Gym grades are notoriously soft and will not translate to classic V7s even in a similar style outside almost all of the time. Most gyms I've been to are easily 1-2 grades softer than their outdoor equivalent; I've flashed several V7s in gyms for example, but need a session or two outdoors (on gritstone this may take even longer, haha). Congratulations on your huge progress but maybe it's time to leave the gym and try your newfound strength on some rock. It will be a bit humbling but you will grow as a climber for sure!
Yeah it's a gym V7 I get that. I would love to project an outdoor climb but it's hard for me since getting there requires so much time and effort. When I have the chance to go outdoors to climb I usually climb stuff that's within my capability to maximize the fun. How do you project an outdoor climb and at the same time juggle a 9-6 job?
@@GeekClimber I know plenty of guys who've done >V10 boulders who work full time. It usually involves training and getting strong on weekdays, then going camping at weekends should your crag be quite far away (like a 1 hour drive for example). Here we are lucky that the local crags are a 20-30 minute drive away from the city. Climbing isn't always supposed to be fun anyway; especially projecting + repeatedly failing which can be quite demotivating tbh. It's all about the prize at the end. It's the nature of the game though. And it's the only way to be sure you've climbed a legitimate V7 fam.
Nr 5 learn about fitness and heatlh, meaning diet and food plan to stay shredded and wheigh less, take protein supplements (you cant get enough through food alone, all top sporters do it..) this will help you recover aswell.
Like a stereotypical geek I write software for a living. I am sure you can carve out 45 minutes on weekdays and 2 hours for 1 day on the weekends, right? Just curious, what do you do for a living?
Great job on the v7! You looked really good on the movements and good job keeping tight and pulling up when your feet cut! Looking strong!!
Paul!!! Appreciate all the help you gave me! The feeling of finishing a V7 was surreal!
'...keeping tight and pulling up when your feet cut!' Exactly what I thought. He definitely learned something and I did as well! Thank you both.
This is one of the most underrated climbing channels.
Glad you like my channel!
Focus on recovery he said! **proceeds to practice sports every day of the week**
Haha it’s actually not that bad. Especially on weekdays where per session of climbing/gym is only 45 minutes long because I am doing it on lunch break.
@@GeekClimber I was surprised too when you described climbing or lifting every weekday at noon. In my experience it takes me about 30min to warm up and get into the flow of climbing hard, how do you manage 45 minute sessions?
there is active recovery. works well... playing a light basketball game on a recovery day may be better than laying on the couch.
Well, Thursday seems more like mobility and stretching, and Saturday is a cardio flush. High frequency short climbing sessions are also a good option over two long high intensity climbing sessions
@@SlavaKim This is a bit late, but the reason is likely daily activity. Even just one day of sitting and not engaging the muscles you use in climbing can be extremely noticeable.
Damn I need to get me one of those REM-Fit mattresses so I can climb V7.
LOL
Definitely should get it if you are sleeping on a cheap random mattress. Way less effort to get some progress compared to training hard in the gym.
@@GeekClimber maybe you are new at this, but you should know that you are required to mention it, when a video is sponsored.
@Димитър Иванов Just so you know I am not paid a single dime by REM-Fit. I reached out to climbing brands to ask for sponsorships but I get rejected every single time despite my sizable sub counts. They are only interested in sponsoring strong pro/semi-pro athletes. I discovered REM-Fit and it works really well for me, so I joined their affiliate program in hopes of making some money from commissions by recommending it to the viewers to compensate for my own efforts of making the video. So far the sales are ..... zero. How about this, if you can negotiate a pro-athlete-like sponsorship from major climbing brands for my channel, I will give you a cut, deal?
@@GeekClimber Super cool! Probably worth mentioning in the video next time to silence the haters before they get to the comment section. lol
I'm a beginner climber. I've recently started to climb and I love your videos. You inspire me to learn more about climbing. Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad you like my videos and climb on!
Excellent job breaking the plateau and plenty of good ideas to help others. Changing routines is utterly valuable in climbing.
Yes you are right. Doing the same thing again and again and expecting different results doesn't make sense. Gotta switch it up when things are not working!
HELL YEAH MAN HAHA, you’ve got me addicted to climbing. I’ve never had the full motivation to go to the gym or workout just due to the monotony of moving weights but now I have a puzzle to figure out and I can’t get enough. Love your stuff and cheers from Australia.
Glad that I am the one that got you addicted to climbing! It's super fun and definitely keep on doing it!
Huge congrats and well deserved for all your hard work! May more V7s and above be on their way in 2019!
Thanks! I am working on my 2nd V7 now and hopefully I will get it soon!
I started bouldering in mid-December. Couldn't hang on for more than ten seconds to save my life, with even V1s being difficult. Watched your videos and started improving and sent my one of my problem V1s last week without expecting to nail it, and my other problem is now down to my technique rather than my arm stamina. Thanks :)
Glad that you find my videos helpful! Good techniques should be able to carry you all the way to V3s. Good luck!
I bet you’re killing it rn
@@Limbaugh_ A throwback! Unfortunately, I did injure one of my tendons from overuse, and then our local climbing gym closed real quick when COVID started so I wasn't able to go for much of 2020/2021. I have been staying in shape with other exercise though. I might take a spin again after this Omicron surge blows over. Definitely want to do it again.
@@compassghost damn dude, that’s so unfortunate I hope you cam get back to it soon
Congratz. YOU ARE STRONG.
Thanks! I did feel super strong when I hit the top haha.
Your advice is always sound and you are inspirational.
I’ve been binging your videos and seeing you improve was really inspirational. Keep pushing yourself!!
Looking back on my old videos, even I myself is surprised how much I’ve changed. It was a surreal moment to get that V7!
Good Job Geek Climber, hope you keep doing good climbing and making these great vids
Thanks! Definitely will keep on climbing and making awesome videos!
It's amazing that I can see your progress as an audience, your muscle, your posture, and your climbing look very different from your early video. It's interesting to see those change side-by-side and it is really motivating. Great job Geek Climber!
I just watched some of my old videos and I agree with you. It’s amazing how much I’ve changed throughout such a short period of time! Thanks for being one of the early supporters!
Congratulations, my friend. Hard work and focus pay off. I'll be looking for my first V5 sometime this year if I can get some injuries sorted out. Wish me luck!
You got it, man! If you haven’t focused on recovery/mobility exercises yet, give it a try and see if it works for you.
Awesome! It's cool to watch your enthusiasm and joy for climbing grow alongside yo' skills . Congratulations! Really awesome channel.
Glad you like my channel! It took me a while but eventually I got it. I still remember the moment when I topped it out.
Quite motivating effort dude! I m on a similiar mission right now after a 10 year climbing break. I m 43 now and last week i climbed my first 7a in kalymnos. My goal is 8a before i get 50. Its a long way...haha!
Wow that’s so awesome to hear!! I am actually quite worried that I will stop improving after age 35. Hearing what you said makes me so pumped for you!
Congrats on breaking the plateau! Just found your channel and I think it’s super helpful for a new climber like me. Thanks for the tips! :)
Hey! Welcome to the climbing community! Glad you find my videos helpful and definitely keep on climbing!
I started climbing less than 2 months ago and developed a passion instantly for it.
I have been an athlete all my life training athletics for 10 years and on my first day climbing I did a 5A.
Now after climbing 2-3 days a week for about a month and a half I climbed several 6Bs indoor, from what I've seen this is abnormal and has made me really excited about the sport...
Idk why I felt the need to share this but I'm just extremely excited about it
Same i have very strong pulling, after doing calisthenics, so on my first day of climbing i climb 6A. Is so fun and fits me. Im excited to do this sport seriously
hey man just wondering how you got on in your climbing journey or if you gave up ?, i'm in a similar position i've almost been climbing 4 months and just did my first 7a, many thanks
Inspirational. Love seeing your progress. Keep up the quality content!
Glad you find it inspirational! I will definitely keep on making awesome videos!
Congrats! Keep up the hard work
Thank! Definitely!
Soon to be a 38 year old here who has climbed for 13 months now. Got my first V5, albeit on a highly compressed/right slab route. Slowly wiggling out of the V3-V4 plateau.
But for most people worried about staying in the same grade forever, the beginning part V-scale is not quite linear. Don't lose heart, you might be making progress. Throw the grades in the trash and enjoy the journey.
A year later I am stuck in the V4-V5 plateau. Still having fun each day.
So awesome! Really inspiring to see how your training has boosted you up! I have learned a lot of these same lessons over the past couple years.
Glad to hear that you've been through a similar process! I wonder what has to be done in order to climb a V8.
You got strong! Congratz + thanks for the inspiration!
You really do a lot, could probably develop faster by doing less. How old are you?
Thanks! I am actually about to turn 31... Do you think I still have a chance to develop faster by doing less? 😆
@@GeekClimber Thanks, you are kind of in the middle - could work, or not. Your call if you really can fully recover. Most people who train, train too much.
Wow! Great job! I’ve been stuck in v4 land forever (age is not helping!), but your ideas are wonderful. I’m going to give them a try. Maybe a 5 is in my future. 💪
You got it, man! I am also so old that an usual professional athlete at my age would have been already down the hill. For us old climbers, I believe recovery is even more important.
There is a group of climbers in the gym I go to that are probably from 45-60 years old and those guys are always working v6 and v7 routes. There's hope for all of us!
Thaks for all the inspiration & gratz man!
Great work, impressive effert in getting better.
Glad you like it man! It wasn’t easy but it certainly felt good when I hit the top of the V7 climb!
Congrats man
Thanks bro!
inspirational! nice work dude
Glad you like the video and find it inspirational!
Congratz dude!
Thanks man!
Yeah man! Well done!
Thanks! 👍
Your videos are great! Humble and interesting!
Congratz my dudeee
👍👍👍
That v7, sick dude! congratulations!
Thanks! I had to be so precise on my movements in order to hold onto the small crimps. Definitely an amazing feeling to finish it.
Great job on beating your plateau
Thanks! It was a historic moment for me haha.
Good job man !
Thanks! It was a huge accomplishment for me!
Congrats!!!
Thanks Nason! Glad to see you around again as well!
Congratulations!
Thank you my friend!
Great job! Personal break through woot woot!!
Thanks! I still remember the moment when I finished this climb!
Great job and thank you for sharing this with us!
Thanks and glad you like the video!
I've been climbing for six months now. My height is 5ft 8in compared to my weight 176lb , so I've had about 3 injuries. And I didn't want to get hurt again.
It was also strange to see that the regulars who have been coming to the climbing gym for years have stayed on the V4.
However, watching your video has solved the mystery. As soon as I built my own pull-up machine in my house and started doing it, I was able to do more tasks in the gym without putting in too much effort than before.
Your videos have helped me a lot. Thank you very much from Japan.
Motivating as well as demotivating. You have to train everyday to go from V5 to V7s lol. I've been at V5s for 5 years, I can probably climb V6s on my best days and a V7 suited to my style/body. I don't think I could ever train everyday for just another grade or two, props to you for this I guess. I'm doing recovery and mobility work as well right now.. nothing pays off more than this at this level.
It's actually not that bad. For me the activities on weekdays are all less than an hour. Since I climb during lunch break each session is only around 45 minutes. Even the swimming on Saturday is only about an hour. Sunday is the only day in a week that requires 3 hours. You can do this man!
You definitely don't need to train everyday, it's just one of the ways to do it. I started bouldering 11 months ago, I train twice a week and I'm currently at V8. Both sessions are a bit over 2 hours and consists of 30 min warm-up + 80 min limit bouldering + 30 min pull-ups, core and stretching in the end. By limit bouldering I mean working on problems where I can only do 1-2 moves at a time. Then start linking those moves into being able to do first half and the last half separately and finally (after multiple sessions) sending the problem.
Awesome, dude!
👍👍👍
I think that to stop any plato, whether in life or climbing, you just need to change something. In case of climbing, you can change your workout routine, have a healthier life or even something as trivial as going to another climbing wall or climbing with a rope instead of bouldering etc.
I agree something has to be changed. However, I don’t think a trivial change without planning could help me break through the plateau.
Nice! Great job dude
Thanks man!
Always good advice
Inspirational~! And congratulations!
Thanks! Glad you find it inspiring!
way to go man!!!
Thank you for inspiration! Gonna climb hard!
You're welcome! Go and get that next grade!
So awesome!!!
Glad you like it! 👍
2:00 get off the damn mats!!
To be fair, they weren’t expecting me to fly off the wall that badly because a few earlier tries weren’t like that, but I agree they could have been extra cautious about getting off the mats.
@@GeekClimber but still, rules.
i haven't been climbing a long time but i can relate when it took me 5 or 6 years to learn how to do 3 diabolos/chinese yoyos. in that case there wasn't any specific training, just trying over and over again until i figured it out.
dope vid man
Glad you like the video man!
good job man
Great Video and one of the best channels in how to approach life: By pure experience
Glad you like my channel and yea it's all the little things man! Still unreal for me to comprehend that I climbed a V7!
haha!! happy for you!
Sleeping and massage sounds good and all but what did it help you to deal with overstrained fingers?
This interests me quite a bit. I have only recently broke through a plateau myself being able to climb V4 consistently now but the hard attempts came at the price of a tendovaginitis and swollen finger joints. Only way to deal with this was for me to give them time to heal and to tune down the training a notch.
would be supergrateful for sharing your experience with me.
I know what you are talking about. I had the same feeling before. I think you are over using your fingers because you aren’t offloading the pressure to bigger muscles. Once you start doing it, you will feel to soreness and see the value in mobility exercises and foam rolling. It’s a bit abstract on how that’s being done. Try to grip as lightly as you could with your fingers and engage your bigger muscles. Hope that helps.
The route you did was amazing, we should collab
"If you are neither a teenager nor a talented climber..." xD
I had to make that disclaimer there because I met so many talented people in the gym that cruise pass V6-7 like nothing. These people won’t understand my struggles haha.
Yeah I am teen (17y) and did my first v7 boulder in 1,5 months (I have never climbed before)
@@MarkusSojakka you're scandinavian so it seems legit
@@АнтонБогатко-н1т 😅
I’m new to climbing, any advice on how to prevent my hands from getting big blisters? Is it just natural and my skin has to get used to the strains or is there a secret formula? Appreciate any answers!
MiMiXis I know the feeling from experience. It never really stops but later on your skin will be really tough. It wont hurt so much anymore. Few tips: always use chalk so your hands are not that sweaty, use some lotion after climbing session. And last but not least you should optimize your grip style on each hold to prevent slipping from them and injuring your skin even more (especially slopers and big jugs).
Samuli Väänänen ok thanks for the advice! Yeah makes sense, thank u!!🙏
Yeah typically your hands will get tougher as you climb more. Also once you grip a hold, try to hold firmly and not slide your fingers around.
Finally someone I can relate to
Think I'll stick to being casual because that schedule is packed 😂
Haha nothing wrong with that at all! I climbed casually for 10 years.
well done
Thanks! It was an amazing feeling!
So basically... You got real. Nice one! I'd recommend reading / listening to Joshua Waizkin and his book "The Art of Learning". I think one can apply his advice very nicely to climbing since you can focus on efficiency of movement. He also emphasizes rest & recovery.
Thanks a lot for the recommendation! I am looking for an audio version of it so I can listen to it while I commute to work.
Dude you should look up "Yuri Marmerstein band routine" for shoulders mobility. Highly praised in the movement community.
Also for anyone wondering you don't need expensive mattress. I sleep on a 1 1/2 inch matress and i've never felt better with my back and recovery ever since. Investigate it :)
Thanks for the pointer, man. Coincidently, I have been focusing on shoulder mobility lately as well. I will definitely look it up.
How many tries did it take you to do that V7? Did it go quickly once you had the beta or did you have to train specifically for it?
I got the beta from a strong climber friend but it still took me around 40 tries in multiple days combined to do that. The crimps are very hard to hold onto for me so I had to position my body and feet very precisely in order to minimize the burn. It took me a while to figure out the right amount to jump for the dynamic moves as well.
I notice that you bought the REM-fit Sleep 400, whose description states that it is best for side-sleepers due to its softness. However, you demonstrate it lying on your back, and make it seem like a firm mattress. Wouldn't it have been better to get a 500 or 300?
The REM-fit Sleep 400 is actually a lot firmer than the soft mattress I used to slept on, so it works for me. If you have already been sleeping on a firm mattress and are used to it, definitely get the 500 or 300.
Dont you fingers hurts for climbing so often>? How long does your session last for a day?
Yes I always felt like my fingers are on the verge of getting injured, but then I learned that increasing shoulder strength/mobility actually reduces the load off my fingers when climbing. I climb during lunch break on weekdays so it's typically only around 45 mins. As for the one on Sunday it's 2.5 hours.
@@GeekClimber Very interesting. That's not a lot of time climbing. I'd be interested in seeing what your climbing routine is. Do you spend a lot of time warming up, do you do ARC training, do you climb at just under your limit, do you do limit bouldering, etc.
@Richard Doan On weekdays I spend around 15~20 mins warming up on V0/V1/V2, and after that if I feel good I will give my V7 project 2~3 tries and if not I will just work on V5/V6. On Sundays I spend 30~40 mins to warm up on V0/V1/V2, another 30~40 mins on V3/V4 to hone in my technique which the goal is to make climbing each V3/V4 feel as effortless as possible, and then go straight to my V7 project full force till my forearms or fingers become too tired to make any progress.
I love your videos!!! Very informative
Glad you love my videos! 👍
I recently got to v7s myself but then one of my fingers started hurting. Got some tips from your videos, thanks!
Nearly injuring your fingers is the worst feeling, cause you need to rest and recover.
Any tips on recovering besides resting and not climbing?
I can totally relate to what you are talking about. What I learned that helped was increasing shoulder strength and mobility helps reducing the load off the fingers when climbing. I am also in the middle of going through this course www.aimadventureu.com/courses/strength-training-for-injury-prevention. There's a section dedicated to finger injuries. I will let you know if I discover anything that works for me.
I recommend progressive loading on a hangboard as well as antagonistic exercises and refining techniques of attending to feet and open handing holds. This breaks scarred tissue from small tears, encourages growth of strong tissue, reduces likelihood and/or damage from chronic inflammation, and helps prevent excessive and unnecessary loading of the pulleys. Also, increased consumption of omega-3 and vitamin c appears to offer a benefit for ligament development.
Cannabis
Could you make a video dedicated to helping with slopers? I have been a little stuck getting into V4 because of how many slopers they have, so a video on that would be greatly appreciated.
I will add it to my to-do list! For V4 slope routes, it’s most about precise footwork. The slopes are so crappy that you need to put as much as your weight on your feet to hold on to the slopes. Another thing is it’s mostly the wrist that is engaged in holding on to the slopes instead of your fingers.
@@GeekClimber Thanks, I will have to try that!
@@henwill8 Focus on being as low as possible under the hold. Exaggerate the feeling of really sitting down under every hold and you will immediately feel the hold improve.
Which hip mobility exercises did you use? That’s always a weak part for me
Yeah man! Way to be dedicated.
Yea it takes so much dedication to pull it off! Totally worth it!
Congrats dude. Hard work does pay off!! Ive recently attempted using the moon board and posted a video of it. Any tips on how to improve cause it was way harder than i anticipated. Thanks in advance!
Thanks! I don't think I am qualified to give tips about moon boards. I will try and get an expert to be my guest to talk about moon boards in the future!
i'm stuck on V4 on 1.5 years and right arm elbow has injury inside, they call it golfer/climber elbow. And it's been a year and it is still not recovered. Everytime I climb or hang or pull, it hurts. Do you have some tips to get it cured? thanks
That sounds pretty serious, man. It will be a good idea to see a PT to fix this.
i’ve been climbing for 3 months and i’ve gotten a few v6 so i’m hoping i don’t plateau at v7.
Good video! I am not familiar with this grading system. What V7 would be in french grading?
7a+, www.planetmountain.com/news/2004/03/boulderinggrades.html
Seems to be 7a+, but there might be variations between different gyms though.
@@GeekClimber so true, one mans 6a is another mans 5a+.
Ah thats always a thing I am thinking about. Do I do too much sport and not enough recovery?
Congratulations 🎊 well done 👏
(small note; to finish a Boulder problem you are supposed to place both hands on the top hold and demonstrate that you are in control before letting go... Grabbing the ledge of the wall is a bad habbit 😉)
Stay brilliant 🌟
Thanks! In my gym everyone finishes at the top instead of the last hold so I kinda follow the same pattern.
Yeah, you can see some routes finish with taped holds (match on hold), others have no finish hold and are presumably top out or top lip
Short version : train harder
Still you need to know how.
And recover better
that moment of satisfaction :D
I still remember the moment. It was amazing!
Idk if im talented, but within my 5th time climbing I completed just one v6, all the other v6s are wayy too hard for me. Yet it surprises me just how hard it is for most people.
I’ve been climbing for eight months and can climb v5s consistently is that good?
That is very amazing progress!
I wonder when I will plateau I just started climbing but I’ve done parkour and I’m really athletic so I can do v4’s in a week
Does Paul Robinson have any cookie cutter workout plans available? I’d love to try them out. I am plateauing at v5-v6.
I should’ve asked Paul about this when I had the chance. Since you are plateauing at pretty much the same grade as I was, I think you can try the workout plan Paul gave to me. Also definitely focus on recovery and mobility exercises. It should help.
@@GeekClimber Thank you very much for the reply! Appreciate it, I will give this a try.
@@GeekClimber Was there a specific 5 you chose? Or did you really alter it each time? What type of variations of the 10 exercises he gave did you do?
Why do you say "if you are neither a teenager.."? Because of the high strength:weight ratio? Thanks for the awesome videos!
Yes, partially because of the high strength to weight ratio, and also since their muscles are still developing, it's a lot easier for their muscles to adapt to the intensity of climbing.
Ill flash every v5 in the gym but when I touch a v6 I cant even do the first move past the start. Been like this for a few months now
I totally feel you man! Gyms tend to put the harder part of the climb at the bottom so people won’t be constantly falling from the top. You should totally try moves in the middle part of the climb first!
Love you channel! I’m starting my own but instead of just climbing, I’m also doing ninja warrior related videos. Any tips on how to grow quickly?
That’s awesome! My advice is make fast paced and informative videos. Think about what value your videos can provide for the audiences.
I got my first v7 recently too
High five 🙌
You definitely got stronger man but you can't really claim a V7 send until it's outdoors, preferably at a well-developed area. Gym grades are notoriously soft and will not translate to classic V7s even in a similar style outside almost all of the time. Most gyms I've been to are easily 1-2 grades softer than their outdoor equivalent; I've flashed several V7s in gyms for example, but need a session or two outdoors (on gritstone this may take even longer, haha).
Congratulations on your huge progress but maybe it's time to leave the gym and try your newfound strength on some rock. It will be a bit humbling but you will grow as a climber for sure!
Yeah it's a gym V7 I get that. I would love to project an outdoor climb but it's hard for me since getting there requires so much time and effort. When I have the chance to go outdoors to climb I usually climb stuff that's within my capability to maximize the fun. How do you project an outdoor climb and at the same time juggle a 9-6 job?
@@GeekClimber I know plenty of guys who've done >V10 boulders who work full time. It usually involves training and getting strong on weekdays, then going camping at weekends should your crag be quite far away (like a 1 hour drive for example). Here we are lucky that the local crags are a 20-30 minute drive away from the city. Climbing isn't always supposed to be fun anyway; especially projecting + repeatedly failing which can be quite demotivating tbh. It's all about the prize at the end.
It's the nature of the game though. And it's the only way to be sure you've climbed a legitimate V7 fam.
No Power Company Climbing?
Never heard of it before, but thanks for the recommendation! I just downloaded an episode and I will listen to it tomorrow while commuting to work.
I dont even climb, what am I doing here?
Because TH-cam knows deep down you want to try out rock climbing! I highly recommend that you stop by a rock climbing gym and give it a try.
Nr 5 learn about fitness and heatlh, meaning diet and food plan to stay shredded and wheigh less, take protein supplements (you cant get enough through food alone, all top sporters do it..) this will help you recover aswell.
My friend climbed her first V7 after about 8 months of climbing, she is so talented:)
I totally agree with you. She is too talented!
Climbs V7
Vocal Cords: *HUUAAAAAHH!!!!*
Umm is it good to have climbed 2 7a+ in less than 1.5 years?
Did you change your diet at all that could help your recovery!
My diet wasn’t too bad to start with so there wasn’t a change on my diet.
1:06 PLEASEE someone tell my what's the name of that app or where was he looking up the climbing podcasts
Nvm I found it, its an apple app called "Apple podcasts"
I'm still stuck on V3 on the Moonboard😅
Dude, what do u do for a living? U seem to have a lot of time to train. Im so jealous
Like a stereotypical geek I write software for a living. I am sure you can carve out 45 minutes on weekdays and 2 hours for 1 day on the weekends, right? Just curious, what do you do for a living?
What is that V Scale I never heard of it. I only know the German UIAA scale which is the simplest and the French/ FB and Yosemite scale.
For some reason there isn’t a unified grading system. You can find the conversion here en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing).