Well done and thank you! I load 300 AAC for a friend who runs an AR conversion 9" suppressed. I've found the 168 Sierra 308 bullets work well with his canister using 15 grains of W296. Perfect cycling. Kind of a hybrid. It's not unpleasant to fire without ear protection...It is noticeably louder than 220 grain subsonic but it's a LOT more fun. Kicking 125 grain boat tails now through my Ruger Mini 14 - 300 AAC. I prefer W296 because it's the same powder I use for my .357 Magnum and 45 Colt (Ruger) loads AND it feeds through my loader (unlike the peg-type rifle powder). Poke around on the web for distributors of "pulled bullets". Buy in bulk (500-1000) and save a fuk ton of money. Lastly, I gave up on trimming 223 brass. It's really not much more expensive to purchase bulk once fired 7.62 x 35 brass. Even fresh 300 AAC brass isn't terrible expensive. I'm a whore when it comes to collecting my brass at the range...because it's mine. Again. Excellent video and good talking points.
This is Texas! Great video bud! I am looking around for a good source that I can tap on from time to time. I saw the flag, the beard, and then you kept me interested with amazing content... Kudos!
I wish I had you as a neighbor, I load 300 blackout and I thought The information on the bullets was spot on! Have you had any experience with the Hornaday 125 grain hollowpoint‘s? Great video!
Don't forget that the necks on the 223 to 300 conversion need to be verified to make sure the wall thickness is below .013in I turn all of mine below .012in to make sure I don't get an overpressure situation or jamming in the chamber if the loaded round measures more than .334in. at the neck area.👍
Why did you not talk about using cast boolits? I have good luck with Lee 230 grain cast boolits powder coated. It does not get any less expensive than that! Very nice video, I have only started playing with my 300 Blackout, only handloaded for the sub sonic but I have some 147 grain FMJ's that I will be loading up soon for supersonic.
I would agree. From using them, I really can't tell a difference in my loads. There's a lot of talk about how they are exactly the same, just relabeled. The weird thing about them is if you look in some things, they're interchangeable. If you look in others, say, the Hornady book it's pretty crazy what they list. Of course, work your way up to hot loads, but for the 125 SST it says max load on w296 is 17.5 (2000 fps) and then H110 is all the way at 18.8 (2100fps). For the 208 AMAX, it lists a 1.2 grain difference between max loads. It's really strange... my theory is "treat them as the same powder with different batches." Each new batch of powder I do a small ladder just to make sure something didn't go weird in quality control, same with h110 and w296.
+TOBORE8THMAN Ya. Identical. Same manufacturer, same assembly line, same specs, different packaging. Some books still reflect when Hodgdon and Winchester were two different companies and two different powders. They have been the same for a really long time. Never understood why some books reflect differences anymore. Meh, like any reloading, test safe and work up.
I started shooting 220 grain subtonics through my 8.5 inch barrel. Cycles fine. I would think the 220 grain at 950fps (to stay sub-sonic at higher altitudes) to cycle better than a 200 grain at 950fps just because it takes more energy to push the bullet and thus better chance of cycling the semi-auto rifle.
good vid bro. great you didn't fk around with the info. you seem to have come to very similar results with projectiles etc. If i may add, I have had fantastic results using re7 (more readily avail in new Zealand) with my sub loads. Also sierra pro hunter 125s are a great HV rnd
First off, great videos! Just a quick question: do you crimp with any of your 300 blk loads? I'm loading the same subs as you (220 smk), and the same supers (110 vmax and 125 nosler bt). Seems most people prefer a light crimp, but I wasn't sure. Thanks!
OnyxAtx, I'm new to your channel, also to the idea of reloading, could you give a fellow enthusiast a hand? What would I need to get started in reloading. Rifle Calibers: .223/5.56, .308/.3006, 300 blackout, 7.62x54r. Pistol Calibers: .45acp, 9mm Luger, .357/.38, .380
+Dan Bernal It's a tough call... I get that question a lot at work. I would dig around for some videos on equipment and start out with one caliber. Then move up from there.... for that many calibers you'll need dies for each, projectiles, different types of powders, different primers... etc. There is a lot of tools and reloading equipment that is personal preference... kind of like hand guns. You get something, and may love it, but then find there's something else that would do it better. I would start with a single stage press though, and a good scale. Measure everything twice, then measure again. Put some time into it and start loading for really really good rounds. Once you learn more, you can speed up and start doing progressive presses, etc. But again, everyone has their own "secret sauce."
Ahhh! I have watched this video 2 dozen times! Great video. The 110gr seem a little hot too me (nearly the pressure of a 223 with a shorter gas window). I wonder if the 125gr up to 150gr have "less powder" because of case space, or do they perform differently because of their weight?
+Bert Payne I'm a fan of 110 and 125s, but not really much more than 125 unless it's subs. (personal preference though.) Weight and speed come into play, as well as what the rifle personally likes. As far as powder, I think of it like this. Think of it like punching something. A pillow on a string is light and will react easier. So if you punch it as hard as you can, no problem. Make the object heavier, the transfer of energy is different. You can punch a block of wood pretty hard, it will swing and your hand will be ok. Do the same to a block of cement, and you'll get a broken hand. So to move that cement, you have to do a more controlled "push" instead of a wild punch. I know it's a bit convoluted, but hopefully that makes a bit of sense.
What kind of challenge is the 5744? Does it have trouble locking back on 220s? ie- it is an even slower powder than 1680? Perhaps it is better for lighter bullets like 208 grain (or less - still subsonic) - which can be tricky.
great video! kind of unrelated but it looks like you have a mod on your desk in the background i have wondered if vaping in my reloading room could possibly have any negative effects due to the moisture, any thoughts? and if you dont vape then please disregard. thanks!
+Alex Freebairn It is--- so I don't do it when actually reloading, but when I'm doing videos and such it's in there. That room is basically reloading, a work bench, and weights. It generally stays really dry.
Do you have a 1:7 or 1:8 twist rate in your barrel? My new build has a 1:7 twist. I'm only interested in supersonic rounds. I'm wondering if this twist rate will prefer 125gr bullets over 110gr. I won't know until I make some reloads and get out to the range, but I'd appreciate any thoughts beforehand!
Dan Burns I have not, I've got some 180s but haven't toyed with them, and I haven't jumped into 4227 just yet. I plan to at some point when I get some more free time.
great video.... I am very new 300 blackout rounds. I have a lot of 150 fmj/bt hornady bullets that I use for my 308 rifle. I have h110 and win 296. is this a good bullet to use.
Erik Marshall It should work fine, but I prefer 110/125 for supersonics. I've done quite a few around 145-155 and they worked fine at the range. Not my favorite, but should work just fine.
I love H110, it meters so smoothly. I've had my .300 BLK for 6 months and have loaded mostly 147-150 grain, since those were the bullets I had in stock (surplus .308 and .30-06 rounds). Is the 200 fps difference really that important when selecting 125gr over 150 gr?
I think it depends on the use... for range use I'll shoot some random loads in that range and they've all seemed fine. Since I run short barrels, I try to squeeze all the velocity I can out of the rounds... and since they are generally at the lower end of the scale on getting enough speed to expand properly, it's important to me. That being said, it's a personal preference thing to me as well. I would say give some 125s a try, see how you like them... then go with what you enjoy most.
Hey, I am new to the 300 blackout round am focused more on Accuracy with all of my rounds more than anything else. I was wondering you if might share what your most accurate load is for the 300 blackout round?
msxracer23 I tried to send it as a message, but who knows what goes on with TH-cam messages... they seem to only work sometimes. I'll post it on here, with the disclaimer of "It works well for me, use at your own risk and load up to it to be safe." As far as accuracy, for subsonics... 220 Sierra Match King 9.8 grains of A5477 COAL 1.190 You may be able to run the COAL out a bit further, but that seemed to be the sweet spot for me. Also, depending on barrel length you may want to drop the powder maybe to 9.6 or so, just to compensate in velocity for a slightly longer barrel than my 7.5" For supersonics Nosler Ballistic Tip 125 grain 16.9 grains of W296 (or H110) COAL 2.065 Brass was trimmed to 1.359" with CCI 400 primers. That's all with a 7.5" 1 in 8 twist barrel, almost always suppressed. So, you may have to refine them a bit depending on your barrel and if you're running them quiet or not.
Outstanding. Thank you for posting that info. I have already purchased few hundred 125 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets, Converted my Brass over and trimmed down to 1.360 and finally tracked down some H110. I am running a 10.5" barrel and still waiting on my tax stamp for my suppressor. I plan to shoot this suppressed 95% of the time, so this recipe gives me a great place to start and see what kind of groupings I get. I def appreciate all the info.
Do you find there is a single powder that does well in both the subs and the 110-125 grain supers? I've been trying to standardize and pare down the variety of powders I stock. Also having a short list to keep in mind makes it a lot easier to remember what I want to buy when I see an opportunistic bargain.
+GunFun ZS My Lee die set data sheet lists Win 296 loads for 220gr as most accurate, with Win 296 listed for 110,115,125,130,135gr bullets although H110 produced the most accurate groups for all those super sonic loads. H110, H LIL GUN, & IMR4227 were also listed for the 220 subsonics as well as the lighter super sonic loads (except 110 did not list H LIL GUN at all) but not as the most accurate. I would probably select H110 as my all-around 300BLK powder, based on the Lee data sheet, but I would do some grouping before making a final decision. . . .
Hey Man, Are you still doing this round and offering some help on reloading it? I found your email address below, +Tyler Bamburg onyxatx@ gmail. But, it isn't a good address in my system. (?) I just got my 300 BO Upper in the mail yesterday and want to re-load for it to. But, I'm completely New to this Caliber. I've reloaded for Many Many years all together. I was hoping you could start me off in the right direction for a Good Hunting Round Information.
![ทางเดินชีวิต - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ x อ.ไข่ มาลีฮวนน่า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1f3wcG16dd4/mqdefault.jpg)
Well done and thank you!
I load 300 AAC for a friend who runs an AR conversion 9" suppressed. I've found the 168 Sierra 308 bullets work well with his canister using 15 grains of W296. Perfect cycling. Kind of a hybrid. It's not unpleasant to fire without ear protection...It is noticeably louder than 220 grain subsonic but it's a LOT more fun.
Kicking 125 grain boat tails now through my Ruger Mini 14 - 300 AAC. I prefer W296 because it's the same powder I use for my .357 Magnum and 45 Colt (Ruger) loads AND it feeds through my loader (unlike the peg-type rifle powder).
Poke around on the web for distributors of "pulled bullets". Buy in bulk (500-1000) and save a fuk ton of money.
Lastly, I gave up on trimming 223 brass. It's really not much more expensive to purchase bulk once fired 7.62 x 35 brass. Even fresh 300 AAC brass isn't terrible expensive. I'm a whore when it comes to collecting my brass at the range...because it's mine. Again. Excellent video and good talking points.
All 4 of your blackout videos were well done. Intelligent, factual information based on experience without the hype and drama.
Well done sir.
Thank you, the comment is much appreciated!
Best video on blackout bullet component selection.
What a well done video plenty of information delivered with a to the point format bravo big fan.
This is Texas!
Great video bud! I am looking around for a good source that I can tap on from time to time.
I saw the flag, the beard, and then you kept me interested with amazing content... Kudos!
+Lou G Thank you!
Great summary of the 300 blackout options. Thanks for posting.
Your videos are really well done with accurate information. Thank you!
Jay Russell You're very welcome
All videos should be this succinct!
Excellent information, thank you very much for posting
Very good video, right to the point. Will be using "LIL" Gun with 110 to 125 gr. bullets Thanks for the information.
Nice video man with some good info. Love my 300 BO. A-1680 and H110 are my usual go to powders. May have to try this A-5744
+jon jenkins Thank you. I really enjoy that 5744, works fantastic for me.
That is some solid 300blk info. Thank you.
What happened to this guy? No videos newer than 3 years. This was a great video
Awesome video. Thank you for the info.
atxeightyfour you're very welcome
Nice treatment on the subject.
AboveMediocrity2010 Thank you!
I wish I had you as a neighbor, I load 300 blackout and I thought The information on the bullets was spot on! Have you had any experience with the Hornaday 125 grain hollowpoint‘s? Great video!
Don't forget that the necks on the 223 to 300 conversion need to be verified to make sure the wall thickness is below .013in
I turn all of mine below .012in to make sure I don't get an overpressure situation or jamming in the chamber if the loaded round measures more than .334in. at the neck area.👍
Why did you not talk about using cast boolits? I have good luck with Lee 230 grain cast boolits powder coated. It does not get any less expensive than that!
Very nice video, I have only started playing with my 300 Blackout, only handloaded for the sub sonic but I have some 147 grain FMJ's that I will be loading up soon for supersonic.
296 & H110 are the exact same powder and loads can be used interchangeably from what I have seen in published reloading dada.
I would agree. From using them, I really can't tell a difference in my loads. There's a lot of talk about how they are exactly the same, just relabeled. The weird thing about them is if you look in some things, they're interchangeable. If you look in others, say, the Hornady book it's pretty crazy what they list. Of course, work your way up to hot loads, but for the 125 SST it says max load on w296 is 17.5 (2000 fps) and then H110 is all the way at 18.8 (2100fps). For the 208 AMAX, it lists a 1.2 grain difference between max loads.
It's really strange... my theory is "treat them as the same powder with different batches." Each new batch of powder I do a small ladder just to make sure something didn't go weird in quality control, same with h110 and w296.
neutered10mm It's identical.
+TOBORE8THMAN Ya. Identical. Same manufacturer, same assembly line, same specs, different packaging. Some books still reflect when Hodgdon and Winchester were two different companies and two different powders. They have been the same for a really long time. Never understood why some books reflect differences anymore. Meh, like any reloading, test safe and work up.
great info & video!
subscribed!
+Tyler Bamburg Thank you!
I started shooting 220 grain subtonics through my 8.5 inch barrel. Cycles fine. I would think the 220 grain at 950fps (to stay sub-sonic at higher altitudes) to cycle better than a 200 grain at 950fps just because it takes more energy to push the bullet and thus better chance of cycling the semi-auto rifle.
good vid bro. great you didn't fk around with the info. you seem to have come to very similar results with projectiles etc. If i may add, I have had fantastic results using re7 (more readily avail in new Zealand) with my sub loads. Also sierra pro hunter 125s are a great HV rnd
Jared Hearsey thank you!
Have you considered CFE BLK powder for testing?
First off, great videos!
Just a quick question: do you crimp with any of your 300 blk loads? I'm loading the same subs as you (220 smk), and the same supers (110 vmax and 125 nosler bt). Seems most people prefer a light crimp, but I wasn't sure.
Thanks!
Kory H Thank you! I do a light factory crimp on them, seems to work well
OnyxAtx, I'm new to your channel, also to the idea of reloading, could you give a fellow enthusiast a hand?
What would I need to get started in reloading. Rifle Calibers: .223/5.56, .308/.3006, 300 blackout, 7.62x54r.
Pistol Calibers: .45acp, 9mm Luger, .357/.38, .380
+Dan Bernal It's a tough call... I get that question a lot at work. I would dig around for some videos on equipment and start out with one caliber. Then move up from there.... for that many calibers you'll need dies for each, projectiles, different types of powders, different primers... etc. There is a lot of tools and reloading equipment that is personal preference... kind of like hand guns. You get something, and may love it, but then find there's something else that would do it better. I would start with a single stage press though, and a good scale. Measure everything twice, then measure again. Put some time into it and start loading for really really good rounds. Once you learn more, you can speed up and start doing progressive presses, etc. But again, everyone has their own "secret sauce."
Very good, to the point video, Have you ever tried Alliant 300MP powder? Been using it in my .410 and noticed its very close to Win.296.
Ahhh! I have watched this video 2 dozen times! Great video. The 110gr seem a little hot too me (nearly the pressure of a 223 with a shorter gas window). I wonder if the 125gr up to 150gr have "less powder" because of case space, or do they perform differently because of their weight?
+Bert Payne I'm a fan of 110 and 125s, but not really much more than 125 unless it's subs. (personal preference though.) Weight and speed come into play, as well as what the rifle personally likes. As far as powder, I think of it like this. Think of it like punching something. A pillow on a string is light and will react easier. So if you punch it as hard as you can, no problem. Make the object heavier, the transfer of energy is different. You can punch a block of wood pretty hard, it will swing and your hand will be ok. Do the same to a block of cement, and you'll get a broken hand. So to move that cement, you have to do a more controlled "push" instead of a wild punch. I know it's a bit convoluted, but hopefully that makes a bit of sense.
I like 125gr SST for meat and Speer 125gr HP for practice in 16" and 110gr V-max (in pistol) with Win 296 in everything.
in the video you showed a group with the Nossler 125 grain. Can you share the case length, overall length, powder type and powder amount?
Thanks for the info!!!
I just started loading the 300. Using 125 Sierra, W296 with CCI 400. What's your recipe there? I'm actually curious of C.O.A.L
What kind of challenge is the 5744? Does it have trouble locking back on 220s? ie- it is an even slower powder than 1680? Perhaps it is better for lighter bullets like 208 grain (or less - still subsonic) - which can be tricky.
Great Video,
I would like to discuss some powder weight specifics, is there a way to email you?
Joe
Hornady #23010, H110 Powder, CCI Primer, Best Load Ever.
great video! kind of unrelated but it looks like you have a mod on your desk in the background i have wondered if vaping in my reloading room could possibly have any negative effects due to the moisture, any thoughts? and if you dont vape then please disregard. thanks!
+Alex Freebairn It is--- so I don't do it when actually reloading, but when I'm doing videos and such it's in there. That room is basically reloading, a work bench, and weights. It generally stays really dry.
+Onyx ATX okay thank you for your time!
hey great I would like to know some good recipes for the 300 blackout I just brought a 300 blackout upper to put on my ruger556
Do you have a 1:7 or 1:8 twist rate in your barrel? My new build has a 1:7 twist. I'm only interested in supersonic rounds. I'm wondering if this twist rate will prefer 125gr bullets over 110gr. I won't know until I make some reloads and get out to the range, but I'd appreciate any thoughts beforehand!
I have a 1:8. On paper I would like a 1:7 but no complaints on the 8. If I bought another I think I would do a 1:7
have you used Hornady 180gr SST with IMR 4227 powder ? what are your thoughts on this match up too ?
Dan Burns I have not, I've got some 180s but haven't toyed with them, and I haven't jumped into 4227 just yet. I plan to at some point when I get some more free time.
Thanks for the info I would like info on a super sonic load .
great video.... I am very new 300 blackout rounds. I have a lot of 150 fmj/bt hornady bullets that I use for my 308 rifle. I have h110 and win 296. is this a good bullet to use.
Erik Marshall It should work fine, but I prefer 110/125 for supersonics. I've done quite a few around 145-155 and they worked fine at the range. Not my favorite, but should work just fine.
Great video. Thanks.
- new sub.
You're very welcome,
I love H110, it meters so smoothly. I've had my .300 BLK for 6 months and have loaded mostly 147-150 grain, since those were the bullets I had in stock (surplus .308 and .30-06 rounds). Is the 200 fps difference really that important when selecting 125gr over 150 gr?
I think it depends on the use... for range use I'll shoot some random loads in that range and they've all seemed fine. Since I run short barrels, I try to squeeze all the velocity I can out of the rounds... and since they are generally at the lower end of the scale on getting enough speed to expand properly, it's important to me. That being said, it's a personal preference thing to me as well. I would say give some 125s a try, see how you like them... then go with what you enjoy most.
So it's safe to say 300 blackout is meant to be used in a sbr?
You know your shit. Thanks
Hey, I am new to the 300 blackout round am focused more on Accuracy with all of my rounds more than anything else. I was wondering you if might share what your most accurate load is for the 300 blackout round?
Absolutely, I'll go dig up my papers and send you a private message here shortly with it.
hey bud just wanted to follow up and see if you were able to find that info
msxracer23 I tried to send it as a message, but who knows what goes on with TH-cam messages... they seem to only work sometimes. I'll post it on here, with the disclaimer of "It works well for me, use at your own risk and load up to it to be safe."
As far as accuracy, for subsonics...
220 Sierra Match King
9.8 grains of A5477
COAL 1.190
You may be able to run the COAL out a bit further, but that seemed to be the sweet spot for me. Also, depending on barrel length you may want to drop the powder maybe to 9.6 or so, just to compensate in velocity for a slightly longer barrel than my 7.5"
For supersonics
Nosler Ballistic Tip 125 grain
16.9 grains of W296 (or H110)
COAL 2.065
Brass was trimmed to 1.359" with CCI 400 primers.
That's all with a 7.5" 1 in 8 twist barrel, almost always suppressed. So, you may have to refine them a bit depending on your barrel and if you're running them quiet or not.
Outstanding. Thank you for posting that info. I have already purchased few hundred 125 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets, Converted my Brass over and trimmed down to 1.360 and finally tracked down some H110.
I am running a 10.5" barrel and still waiting on my tax stamp for my suppressor. I plan to shoot this suppressed 95% of the time, so this recipe gives me a great place to start and see what kind of groupings I get. I def appreciate all the info.
I'm interested I the exact load u used with the 125 nosler ballistic tips. powder and the amount.
Do you find there is a single powder that does well in both the subs and the 110-125 grain supers? I've been trying to standardize and pare down the variety of powders I stock. Also having a short list to keep in mind makes it a lot easier to remember what I want to buy when I see an opportunistic bargain.
+GunFun ZS Unfortunately not, I haven't found a good powder for supers and subs both. I just stock up on 5744 and H110 right now.
Thanks.
+GunFun ZS My Lee die set data sheet lists Win 296 loads for 220gr as most accurate, with Win 296 listed for 110,115,125,130,135gr bullets although H110 produced the most accurate groups for all those super sonic loads. H110, H LIL GUN, & IMR4227 were also listed for the 220 subsonics as well as the lighter super sonic loads (except 110 did not list H LIL GUN at all) but not as the most accurate. I would probably select H110 as my all-around 300BLK powder, based on the Lee data sheet, but I would do some grouping before making a final decision. . . .
how can I send you a msg to try and get some additional data on what has worked for you load wise?
+Tyler Bamburg onyxatx@ gmail is probably the easiest way... TH-cam messages are a pain and I miss them pretty easily
What are your thoughts on the 110gr Nosler Varmageddon projectiles?
are u using these loads in a ar
how can I get in touch with u by message. I'd like to ask u a few questions.
hornaDEE!!!!!
You said 300 blackout not for hunting? You must be kidding!
Hey Man, Are you still doing this round and offering some help on reloading it? I found your email address below, +Tyler Bamburg onyxatx@ gmail. But, it isn't a good address in my system. (?) I just got my 300 BO Upper in the mail yesterday and want to re-load for it to. But, I'm completely New to this Caliber. I've reloaded for Many Many years all together. I was hoping you could start me off in the right direction for a Good Hunting Round Information.