@scottwinkle5503 - there certainly are options to tighten this up. One being the riser made out of cast iron. I’ll put it in one of my next videos. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
First thing I noticed. You can fix that with some angle bracket from Home Depot if you have a lip on your bench or you could just reinforce it. I really like having a sturdy top when I’m reloading. Having the flex is not terrible, but you want to keep everything as consistent as possible. I would definitely sturdy that thing up a little bit.
@brazosTX - if you don’t mind, send me an email: k2defensemn@gmail.com with your recommendations on how to “sturdy” up a reloading bench. I’m in the planning stage of creating a new studio/reloading bench. I’ll give you a shout out when I make the video. 👍🏻
I stumbled across your vid. Big THANKS! I am a "roll yer own" guy and was looking at this and the 350 legend. The reloading process has me decided on the blackout. Very informative.
Great video it cleared up a couple things i was unsure about thankyou. loved your case eject system thanks for sharing the link i just ordered that a riser plate and handle from them.
I haven't even bought my first firearm, just shot a few times, looking at this deal on PSA, 16in 300BLK for 400, always wanted to reload myself and I'm going to have to with the prices of 300BLK 😅
Great content. Ive been reloading for forty years and really enjoy watching reloading videos. Always a treat to learn stuff. I noticed your bench has a bit of flex when leaning into the handle. I’ve reinforced both of my benches to to the point of no flex which gives more detailed feedback from the ram to tell me whats happening during operation.
@hookeaires6637 - Great feedback! I can tell where you are in your reloading journey with this comment. Over time you become "one" with that lever. I know when I have a bad case once it hits the mouth of the die. It's either going to glide like warm butter over hot pancakes or it will bury itself like a Tennessee wood tick into the die. Love your comment. Hope you stick around for more!
Nice video, thanks! Iim using an RCBS steel die for my 300 blk out. I’ve adjusted the decapper per instructions, I’ve lubed the cases, but the cases keep getting stuck in the die and I’ve actually stripped out the decapping rod removing the case. Have you ran into the same problem? Does the die need a break in time? I bought another die same one thinking it was defective, but I’ve run into the same problem. Ive actually ordered a Lee Pacesetter die to replace the RCBS die. Anyone reading this have any thoughts? I’m new to reloading, done some 308 without a problem, but the 300 seems to be problem. Thank you for in advance for any input!
Sorry to hear this is happening to you. Here is my recommendation. Lube the lower third of the case with your choice of lube. I use RCBS case lube with the roll mat. I don’t show it in this video, but I also use Lyman quick slick spray lube inside the case mouth. Seems a bit much but I’ve never had a stuck case since doing it this way. I’m guessing the cases you’re getting stuck are probably LC brass as they are a bit thicker. One other thing to check is your case trim length. Are the cases you’re having issues with converted from .223/5.56? Or are they factory 300 BLK cases? Since you’re using steel dies, do you set it with cam over? We’ll get this figure out for you! 👍🏻
@@k2defense My cases were bought through once fired brass or Diamond k I don’t remember. The case lengths within max case length. I use Hornady one shot spray lube I also sprayed inside the die. The die is brand new! The set up says to have the decap rod stick down .400 or 3/8 which is where I set it. I do a slight cam over as well. I sent RCBS an email as well. I do appreciate you taking time to answer my questions. BTW the brass has been wet tumbled and dried as well.
@rockyroad8561 - couple of things, you can set your decapping pin so it extends 3/16” below the end of the die. Try that first. Secondly, try using lube instead of the Hornady One Shot. I’ve heard from some folks that it doesn’t do well. I’ve tried it and had mixed results. I stick with RCBS case lube using a roller mat for the bottom third of the case. This is where the majority of the expansion is with these cases. You can use the One Shot in the case mouth if needed. I’ve never had a stuck case using this method of lubing including setting the decapping pin to 3/16” instead of 3/8”. You may have it set too deep. You shouldn’t need to spray the inside of the die for any reason except to clean it. Can’t hurt to try to try my method. Maybe this will resolve your issue. Let us know how things turn out! 👍🏻
@suckafreeboss - for those new to reloading, I’d suggest starting with this video: th-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VNJ3yTVBCUsE9lTr Hope this video helps you in your journey! 👍🏻
@Ruteger100 - @inlinefabrication sells them. They are for extra bins. I’m not sure they sell the upper part anymore. It appears only the lower portion. Here’s the link - inlinefabrication.com/collections/rcbs/products/sidebin-system-for-rcbs-rockchucker-rc-1-2-3-supreme-turret-pro-chucker-5-7-pro2000-bin-reloading-press Dan’s great to work with. Reach out to him for questions. 👍🏻
While, I consider myself to be an advanced reloader, you touched on something with regards to Small base, I kind was waiting for you to share information about small base dies, while I know what that means many do don't know, you might consider sharing that information in future videos..
@00000012345 - small base is used for rifle cases. It is typically used for semi auto rifles. You can get away with full length dies. For me I have had good luck with small base dies. Some will say it shortens the life of the case. Hope this explains it for you. 👍🏻
I see that you're getting a ring around your bullet when you seat it. I'm getting that also is there a way to fix that? (I'm using the Hornady Match Grade seating die)
Simplest way is to seat and crimp separately. When you do both steps together, this sometimes happens depending on how much crimp you’re applying. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
My fired 300 BO brass is .013 larger than the resized brass. What is the recommended headspace in this scenario? Should I just bump it back .004 since my rifles headspace is so much bigger than the die?
@Qlife007 - what type of resizing die are you using? Do you cam over when resizing? Are you checking your shells with a chamber case length gauge? I would start by using the case length gauge. I’ll add a link for the 300 BLK gauge. I’m thinking you probably need to dial your die down to bump the shoulders like you mentioned. Let us know how it goes. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻 amzn.to/43iNkcH
Also how much do you save per bullet if you have calculated it. Maybe I should have watched it all before commenting but just in case you don’t mention it
@HKGunPlay - I would argue that the real cost savings takes place after bad things happen and the cost of goods goes up. I suggest purchasing things consistently. Buy things when you’re able and when they’re available. You’ll dollar cost average over time. I look at it as an investment. Reloading isn’t necessarily a way to save a ton of money. Rather, it’s a way to sustain your hobby or way of life. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@HKGunPlay - It can range from $500 - $1,000. Depends on a multitude of different factors. You might be able to get it for less if you really look around. My set up (in the video) came as a kit. At the time I bought it, the price was around $350. It didn’t have some of the fancy items in this video, but it certainly got the job done. Hope this helps! 👍🏻 email me and I can help you out more if needed.
I am curious to know what you use to lubricate your casings prior to resizing and what your process is. Too many times using one shot I have gotten the casing stuck in the die and strip the rim out of the shell holder and then have to disassemble the die and cut the casing off of the repriming/resizing rod. I know its not case prep thats causing my issue as I tumble my brass in a Franklin armory wet tumbler with stainless pins and then dry in a case dryer. I only seem to have this issue with .300 blackout and .223 .
Bill - I use RCBS lube and lube pad. I avoid one shot with all of the stories out there. With bottle neck cases I lube the lower third of the case. If it starts to squeak or hard to resize I may spray the necks with slick spray. To date, I’ve never had a stuck case using this process. Funny story, I made a video on how to remove a stuck case. I didn’t lube the case at all in order to get one to stick. I reload a ton a .223/5.56 on my single stage press. Hope this helps. 👍🏻
Is that a crimp die or no? Why once you have your depth set are you unlocking the ring and screwing the die back out? Each cartridge will take forever where you have you to adjust depth each time. Am I missing something?
Hi Jeff Merz! It is a bullet seating and crimp die. The first step is to seat the bullet to the appropriate depth. Once you have that set, I set the crimp. Then you can bullet seat and crimp at the same time. Please watch my bullet seating and crimp die video for further explanation! 👍🏻
What bushing are you using in your FA trimmer? With such a small shoulder on 300BO cases I don't know which bushing to use. Either the bushing doesn't fit over the neck or it slides past the shoulder.
Hello jjlowhz! 300 AAC Blackout is the official designation for .300 Blackout. 300 BLK is the colloquial acronym for .300 AAC Blackout. I’m guessing that when people post their videos they look for the most common searched term and name it by that name. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question!
Sorry in advance if this is a dumb question but... are you starting with 5.56 sized brass? Or do you already have the 5.56 brass shaped down to 300 blackout size? I have absolutely zero experience with reloading, separate of everything I just learned in your awesome video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Hello @shermanwilliams3315! I do not size the 223/556 brass before putting the cases through the trimmer. It would be an added step to the process that’s not necessary. Hope this helps! Feel free to ask any question! That’s what this channel is all about! Happy reloading!
So refreshing to see a excellent video
Hello Don Ewing! Appreciate the positive feedback! I’ve pinned your comment! 👍🏻
Thank you. One of the best teaching videos available for 300 Black.
@SeargentLargent - appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Best reloading videos on TH-cam. Hands-down no question.
@4here2there - really appreciate the comment! More to come! 👍🏻
100% agree!
Thank You for a very simple, easy to follow, informative video. Really appreciate your time.
@jesseflores7790 - appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Great video. Looks like you could use a stronger bench to prevent the movement of the press when resizing.
@scottwinkle5503 - there certainly are options to tighten this up. One being the riser made out of cast iron. I’ll put it in one of my next videos. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
First thing I noticed. You can fix that with some angle bracket from Home Depot if you have a lip on your bench or you could just reinforce it. I really like having a sturdy top when I’m reloading. Having the flex is not terrible, but you want to keep everything as consistent as possible. I would definitely sturdy that thing up a little bit.
@brazosTX - if you don’t mind, send me an email: k2defensemn@gmail.com
with your recommendations on how to “sturdy” up a reloading bench. I’m in the planning stage of creating a new studio/reloading bench. I’ll give you a shout out when I make the video. 👍🏻
Just getting started in reloading, thanks for this.
@Radio48388 - happy to help! Let me know if you have any questions! 👍🏻
I stumbled across your vid. Big THANKS! I am a "roll yer own" guy and was looking at this and the 350 legend. The reloading process has me decided on the blackout. Very informative.
C ELOWSKI - appreciate your comment! 👍🏻
Great video it cleared up a couple things i was unsure about thankyou. loved your case eject system thanks for sharing the link i just ordered that a riser plate and handle from them.
I’m starting to get into reloading, mainly to do subsonic 300 blk I subbed now I just gotta get everything!
Did you get started? I am also getting in to reloading and have started accumulating the pieces I need for 300Blk.
I haven't even bought my first firearm, just shot a few times, looking at this deal on PSA, 16in 300BLK for 400, always wanted to reload myself and I'm going to have to with the prices of 300BLK 😅
Super helpful, thanks for making this video!
Glad it was helpful! 👍🏻
Little Gun.. you made my day!! Thank You 😊
Great content. Ive been reloading for forty years and really enjoy watching reloading videos. Always a treat to learn stuff. I noticed your bench has a bit of flex when leaning into the handle. I’ve reinforced both of my benches to to the point of no flex which gives more detailed feedback from the ram to tell me whats happening during operation.
@hookeaires6637 - Great feedback! I can tell where you are in your reloading journey with this comment. Over time you become "one" with that lever. I know when I have a bad case once it hits the mouth of the die. It's either going to glide like warm butter over hot pancakes or it will bury itself like a Tennessee wood tick into the die. Love your comment. Hope you stick around for more!
Stopped by to see the vid on reloading, found myself eyeballing the box of Z Max bullets 😂
Love the Z max! Time to hunt zombies!!! 👍🏻
Explained well and to the point 👍🏻
Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
Fantastic info. Thank you sir!
@joefw2446 - thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Thanks for showing the loading chart I'm looking to make 165gr my go to, been looking for a list of powders as well
Glad you found this video helpful! 👍🏻
165 is pretty heavy for supersonic 300BLK. Won’t get a lot of velocity. It works best with 110-125 grain bullets.
Great video and great information
@wencal - appreciate the compliment! Thank you! 👍🏻
Well done. Love my BO
Great instructions.
Glad it was helpful! 👍🏻
Nice . Educational
Thanks! 👍🏻
Nice video, thanks! Iim using an RCBS steel die for my 300 blk out. I’ve adjusted the decapper per instructions, I’ve lubed the cases, but the cases keep getting stuck in the die and I’ve actually stripped out the decapping rod removing the case. Have you ran into the same problem? Does the die need a break in time? I bought another die same one thinking it was defective, but I’ve run into the same problem. Ive actually ordered a Lee Pacesetter die to replace the RCBS die. Anyone reading this have any thoughts? I’m new to reloading, done some 308 without a problem, but the 300 seems to be problem. Thank you for in advance for any input!
Sorry to hear this is happening to you. Here is my recommendation. Lube the lower third of the case with your choice of lube. I use RCBS case lube with the roll mat. I don’t show it in this video, but I also use Lyman quick slick spray lube inside the case mouth. Seems a bit much but I’ve never had a stuck case since doing it this way. I’m guessing the cases you’re getting stuck are probably LC brass as they are a bit thicker. One other thing to check is your case trim length. Are the cases you’re having issues with converted from .223/5.56? Or are they factory 300 BLK cases? Since you’re using steel dies, do you set it with cam over? We’ll get this figure out for you! 👍🏻
@@k2defense
My cases were bought through once fired brass or Diamond k I don’t remember. The case lengths within max case length. I use Hornady one shot spray lube I also sprayed inside the die. The die is brand new! The set up says to have the decap rod stick down .400 or 3/8 which is where I set it. I do a slight cam over as well. I sent RCBS an email as well. I do appreciate you taking time to answer my questions. BTW the brass has been wet tumbled and dried as well.
@rockyroad8561 - couple of things, you can set your decapping pin so it extends 3/16” below the end of the die. Try that first. Secondly, try using lube instead of the Hornady One Shot. I’ve heard from some folks that it doesn’t do well. I’ve tried it and had mixed results. I stick with RCBS case lube using a roller mat for the bottom third of the case. This is where the majority of the expansion is with these cases. You can use the One Shot in the case mouth if needed. I’ve never had a stuck case using this method of lubing including setting the decapping pin to 3/16” instead of 3/8”. You may have it set too deep. You shouldn’t need to spray the inside of the die for any reason except to clean it. Can’t hurt to try to try my method. Maybe this will resolve your issue. Let us know how things turn out! 👍🏻
@@k2defense Will do thanks I’ll keep you posted
@@k2defense
Looks like I had everything right except my lube process! Thanks for your help Sir!
Thanks!
You bet! 👍🏻
This was my first time watching a 300blk reload video. You might as well been speaking chinese. I want to reload but i dont know where to start.
@suckafreeboss - for those new to reloading, I’d suggest starting with this video:
th-cam.com/video/euZl_mPOEkQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VNJ3yTVBCUsE9lTr
Hope this video helps you in your journey! 👍🏻
Hey K2, what is that arm bolted to the back of your press plate for?
@Ruteger100 - @inlinefabrication sells them. They are for extra bins. I’m not sure they sell the upper part anymore. It appears only the lower portion. Here’s the link - inlinefabrication.com/collections/rcbs/products/sidebin-system-for-rcbs-rockchucker-rc-1-2-3-supreme-turret-pro-chucker-5-7-pro2000-bin-reloading-press
Dan’s great to work with. Reach out to him for questions. 👍🏻
Nicely done 👍🏻👍🏻
@smsgtbulldog - appreciate your comment Senior! 🫡🇺🇸
While, I consider myself to be an advanced reloader, you touched on something with regards to Small base, I kind was waiting for you to share information about small base dies, while I know what that means many do don't know, you might consider sharing that information in future videos..
@Mm-ik9uq - thanks for the feedback! 👍🏻
Well, what’s it mean? Small base. Thx
@00000012345 - small base is used for rifle cases. It is typically used for semi auto rifles. You can get away with full length dies. For me I have had good luck with small base dies. Some will say it shortens the life of the case. Hope this explains it for you. 👍🏻
@@k2defense Thank you very much, appreciate the info.
I see that you're getting a ring around your bullet when you seat it. I'm getting that also is there a way to fix that? (I'm using the Hornady Match Grade seating die)
Simplest way is to seat and crimp separately. When you do both steps together, this sometimes happens depending on how much crimp you’re applying. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
My fired 300 BO brass is .013 larger than the resized brass. What is the recommended headspace in this scenario? Should I just bump it back .004 since my rifles headspace is so much bigger than the die?
@Qlife007 - what type of resizing die are you using? Do you cam over when resizing? Are you checking your shells with a chamber case length gauge? I would start by using the case length gauge. I’ll add a link for the 300 BLK gauge. I’m thinking you probably need to dial your die down to bump the shoulders like you mentioned. Let us know how it goes. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
amzn.to/43iNkcH
Also how much do you save per bullet if you have calculated it. Maybe I should have watched it all before commenting but just in case you don’t mention it
@HKGunPlay - I would argue that the real cost savings takes place after bad things happen and the cost of goods goes up. I suggest purchasing things consistently. Buy things when you’re able and when they’re available. You’ll dollar cost average over time. I look at it as an investment. Reloading isn’t necessarily a way to save a ton of money. Rather, it’s a way to sustain your hobby or way of life. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
What is your auto eject ? That’s pretty cool.
Hello johnleidorf!
Here is the website!
inlinefabrication.com
How much does this set up cost
@HKGunPlay - It can range from $500 - $1,000. Depends on a multitude of different factors. You might be able to get it for less if you really look around. My set up (in the video) came as a kit. At the time I bought it, the price was around $350. It didn’t have some of the fancy items in this video, but it certainly got the job done. Hope this helps! 👍🏻 email me and I can help you out more if needed.
I am curious to know what you use to lubricate your casings prior to resizing and what your process is. Too many times using one shot I have gotten the casing stuck in the die and strip the rim out of the shell holder and then have to disassemble the die and cut the casing off of the repriming/resizing rod. I know its not case prep thats causing my issue as I tumble my brass in a Franklin armory wet tumbler with stainless pins and then dry in a case dryer. I only seem to have this issue with .300 blackout and .223 .
Bill - I use RCBS lube and lube pad. I avoid one shot with all of the stories out there. With bottle neck cases I lube the lower third of the case. If it starts to squeak or hard to resize I may spray the necks with slick spray. To date, I’ve never had a stuck case using this process. Funny story, I made a video on how to remove a stuck case. I didn’t lube the case at all in order to get one to stick. I reload a ton a .223/5.56 on my single stage press. Hope this helps. 👍🏻
Try Unique case lube. Lasts forever too. I've been on the same tub for almost 5 years
Is that a crimp die or no? Why once you have your depth set are you unlocking the ring and screwing the die back out? Each cartridge will take forever where you have you to adjust depth each time. Am I missing something?
Hi Jeff Merz! It is a bullet seating and crimp die. The first step is to seat the bullet to the appropriate depth. Once you have that set, I set the crimp. Then you can bullet seat and crimp at the same time. Please watch my bullet seating and crimp die video for further explanation! 👍🏻
Check out this video th-cam.com/video/diLgHfozgbA/w-d-xo.html
...I always make a dummy round before loading 'for real'- then I electropencil the bullet weight on the case for future reference...
@mohammedcohen - thank you for sharing your reloading information! Appreciate the comment! 👍🏻
What bushing are you using in your FA trimmer? With such a small shoulder on 300BO cases I don't know which bushing to use. Either the bushing doesn't fit over the neck or it slides past the shoulder.
Hello @dansheets7200!
#4 bushing, it should’ve come with the kit? Let me know if you have any additional questions!
@@k2defense thanks!
***Hey do you guys sell affordable 300 blackout subsonic ammunition to the public??
@zikiflx - We do not sell firearms or reloading components.
...we've got the same tumbler...
Awesome! It works well! 👍🏻
Loved the video but now I'm starting to see why they make automatic reloading machines 😅😂
It’s a journey for sure! Therapeutic for me, arduous task for others. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Newbie here 😂, why some are labeled 300 blackout and others are labeled 300 AAC blackout?? Is it the same thing or what lol
Hello jjlowhz! 300 AAC Blackout is the official designation for .300 Blackout. 300 BLK is the colloquial acronym for .300 AAC Blackout. I’m guessing that when people post their videos they look for the most common searched term and name it by that name. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the question!
Sorry in advance if this is a dumb question but... are you starting with 5.56 sized brass? Or do you already have the 5.56 brass shaped down to 300 blackout size? I have absolutely zero experience with reloading, separate of everything I just learned in your awesome video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Hello @shermanwilliams3315!
I do not size the 223/556 brass before putting the cases through the trimmer. It would be an added step to the process that’s not necessary. Hope this helps! Feel free to ask any question! That’s what this channel is all about! Happy reloading!
@@k2defense but you are using used 223/556 brass to begin with?
@@Pluhdao I use both 300 BLK and .223/5.56 (modified) brass.
Dang, you need a progressive
Man that’s a lot of equipment cost
Danny Pierce - welcome to the world of reloading! 😂👍🏻
It's an investment