Thanks for the video. Just a couple things I'd also recommend. Always use the dielectric grease in the coil boots. You don't want to have another reason for the IDM to fail. Also, the 4 bolts tend to loosen over time if tightened with just a screwdriver. I always used my mini wrench with the 30torx to get that little extra snugness. A Saab master tech I worked with would always replace the torx bolts with 10mm head bolts and lockwashers. When you work on these cars everyday you constantly find cars with loose IDM's and missing bolts. Lastly ditto on using the correct NGK's. NEVER but NEVER use anything else with the Trionic cars.
Another good video from you! The dealer who sold me my 2002 Aero serviced it and installed Bosch plugs, they caused a CEL after 200 miles, gaps were way off, different on each plug. I regapped them, CEL came back after ~500 miles. Turns out that unmodified Aeros need NGK PFR6H-10 plugs, gapped at 0.95, 24Nm. She's running sweet.
I know, but I found the problem after the 30 day UK statutory guarantee had expired... too late. Anyway, I'm taking the Aero on a road trip from England to Nordkapp tomorrow, that's how much trust I have in my Saab!
Although, all this NGK hype... As long as you get the correct spark plug, any serious manufacturer (NGK, Bosch, Denso, etc) will do just fine. The problem is that people do not read the plug translation charts, which means they often do buy the wrong plugs. The NGK plugs which are standard (and hyped for) on Saabs are EASILY replaced by plugs from other manufacturers, if you actually bother to get the correct one. It's not like these very common NGK plugs are some kind of space shuttle technology.
Nope, that's incorrect. NGK plugs only in the Saabs and absolutely nothing else. Saabs have no knock sensors but use the spark plug resistance to detect misfires/knocks and this system is carefully tuned to NGK plugs.
Sorry, but, nope, that's incorrect. You are very right about what technology Saab uses for knock sensing, but other manufacturers have special "resistor" plugs as well, like the NGK "R" plugs.
Excellent video and review as always. Everything is as presented. However allow me to point out a few tips. Dielectric grease should always be used between the rubber bouts of the DIC and the spark plugs. This way you avoid the event of an ark between them. Also always use torque to secure the DIC and always perform the change when the engine is cold. I also believe that you should have gapped the tips to 0,9 considering your tuning state or buy the NGK BCPR7ES which are already gapped to 0.9mm. Once again Jonathan well done.
Good tip with greasing the DIC, it does say so in the manual though I've never done it myself. The tune in my car requires the -11 plugs, so I'm happy with 1.1mm unless proven otherwise :)
Hey, nice video, I had already seen you, and now I have a 2000 aero, but I got another reference for the spark plugs: PFR7H-10 3978. Is that correct, or should I ran to take them out?
I'n my view, the old plugs looks near perfect in colour, except being worn a bit more than desirable. Not too lean, not too rich in mixture = light brown. I always use a dab of anti-seize paste on the threads to protect the sensitive threads in the engine head. As long as you fasten the spark plug with degrees instead of torque, there's no problem. The plugs used in this case should be turned 180 degrees if I remember correctly. Edit: Just checked, with a compression washer, as in this case, NGK recommends 1/2-2/3 of a full turn to seat it (180-270 degrees).
I didn't have the chart with me while filming so I didn't know that the color was the perfect one. I torqued according to the Saab workshop manual, which says 28Nm.
Thanks for another great tutorial. Would you know if I should do or think of when installing a brand new DIC? Should it also be standing upright for 30-60 min. if you know?
I never knew that about the DIC having to stay upright. I've gone through several after market ones and wonder if improper handling could have attributed to it. I realize after market is NOT the way go especially for the cassette. I order the OEM one last week. Hopefully that should take care of my issue. Thank you for your insight!! Love your channel!!
Yeah, the DIC is a little sensitive. But it's a good thing that you stopped using aftermarket DIC since they are universially accepted to be...well, crap. :)
Internet babble myth ! Cooling oil in the...individual... Coil cases Doesn't go anywhere .. it can't ! So 30 seconds of being upright is More than enough time for the oil to settle HEAT is what kills the DI.
Just a curious question about the saab dash. Is the gauge a boost gauge? I can't seem to figure it out. Trying to figure if it is showing a boost leak or if it is normal that the gauge rises, then lowers if I keep a constant throttle position.
Hello i'm wondering how did you know how to rotate the sparkplugs to a certain point that they're not too hard and not too loose ? Also you said that they must be at around 28 N.M what do you mean by that?
I use something called a torque wrench which I set to 28 Nm. It's the big tool that says click when I reach the exact torque. See the other comments on this video for ideas on how to do it without the torque wrench! :)
Hi everyone! Maybe it is late to comment Your video, but I have many doubts about my Saab 9-5. I have 2.0t BioPower with around 200 bhp and additional LPG instalation. I should in the near future change my spark plugs and there is a question. Which spark plugs i should order - of course it should be NGK branded, but gap on spark plug should be 1.1 mm or 0.9 mm or any special spark plug. Could any one advice me which one should I bought? Thanks for Your help.
Getting obd2 trouble code P1312 now in the summer heat.. Is it possible that the DI cassette is getting bad? I did replace the spark plugs quite recently
how big difference is old vs new ngk? I probably have the original plugs in (after 180kkm ;x) and going to replace them with the new one soon. Also air and fuel/oil fikters will be replaced. Shall I expect great difference before/after in my 2.0LPT?
At first I wondered why are You using these spark plugs and not platinum ones. Why have You chosen with gap of 1,1mm? Is it better for ethanol mixture? My OEM DIC is coming today so I wonder what type of spark plugs should I use as my engine works on LPG. One way for sure is colder spark plugs as You chose. But most tunners say that for LPG gap should be less that 1mm.
Some videos that would be interesting would be how to replace the antennae cover, brake lights, shift knob, and removal of the dash or door panels. Just some ideas. I need to replace at least one light on my third brake light as I get intermittent warnings on my SID, took a while for me to find it as it was not everytime and when I checked it was pretty light outside, it was also one of the end bulbs on the third brake light and it kind of blended in. Tinted windows didn't help me :)
This video helped me out a lot, thanks! Inherited a Saab 95 2.3t se from my father in law and it had all sorts of problems. First of all it has a very obvious boost problem so as soon as I got it i went a bought a OBD2 scanner for my phone and checked out the error codes. Got 4 and all of them pointed at a faulty DI Cassette. So following your excellent video i changed it out for a new original one and changed the spark plugs at the same time. Now 3 out of 4 error codes are gone but the boost problem remained but the fuel consumption has gone down from 13 to 11 liters per 100km. It feels sluggish, like it has 50 break horse power and no turbo boost. The error code is p1105. I've ordered a new set of vacuum hoses in silicone that are due to arrive tomorrow but i don't think that will solve my problem. Do you have any pointers that might point me in the right direction here?
I have a 2005 SAAB 9.5, the owners manual say´s nothing on how often to change the plugs, but as I recall the Life span of nickle plated plugs is 30.000km.
NO one thinking to move THE DIC.case higher 10 to 15mm. high from engine cover BY used TEFLON insulater. SO THE DIC case not touch the engine cover .SO the DIC. unit not hot same engine cover...
Hi Jonatan and this was a nice video for those who don't know. But you did a big mistake here. You torqued the plugs in to 28nm, checked them over again, and mounted the DI. That's wrong. If you see on a new sparkplug, the sealing is much 'bigger' than on the old sparkplugs, what you HAVE to do is to torque it to the currect torque, witch is 28nm, loosen them up again, THAN torque them to 28nm, so the sealent is been pressured right. This is normal to do with all NGK plugs, maybe plugs from other brands like Bosch etc. But you don't get the right pluglenght or what i could say if you do it your way here, so allways torque down the plug so the sealent got sqeezed together, loosen up, than torque it again. Sorry bad english, my iPhone want's to autocurrect everything it seems like.
I've never heard of that procedure before, and I followed the official Saab workshop instructions which simply say tighten to 28Nm. Where did you hear about the alternative procedure?
Well i 'hear' it about when i worked as a mechanic. Was changing plug in a OG9-3, did it just like you did, and the workshop manager saw it, he was not happy. I understod the reason to that if i took the new plug that only was torqued once, thinking about the gasket, than i saw why it should be done like i said. The gasked will not compress enough with an only 1 time torque. It will offcause work the way you did it, but just think to mention it :) It's not an complain, just a note :)
And the workshop manual for Audi, VW, Skoda, Volvo, Opel says just what i'm saying. Never worked direct with saab so maybe saab did think otherway's but, yes you see what i said :)
That's what this community is all about, us learning things together! I didn't know this procedure before and it makes a lot of sense. Just wondering why WIS doesn't mention it! Thanks for teaching me something new :)
Many thanks again for a great tutorial..I AM a SAABaholc..Valve cover gasket is next...But my convertible top is still on hol...lol... (BTW yu should be selling Trionic 7 tee shirts...
Watching this gave me confidence that I could change my own plugs on my 2007 Saab 9-5. Thank you! You made it seem easy and it was. Well done.
Thanks for the video. Just a couple things I'd also recommend. Always use the dielectric grease in the coil boots. You don't want to have another reason for the IDM to fail. Also, the 4 bolts tend to loosen over time if tightened with just a screwdriver. I always used my mini wrench with the 30torx to get that little extra snugness. A Saab master tech I worked with would always replace the torx bolts with 10mm head bolts and lockwashers. When you work on these cars everyday you constantly find cars with loose IDM's and missing bolts. Lastly ditto on using the correct NGK's. NEVER but NEVER use anything else with the Trionic cars.
Thanks for your input! Your comments are always helpful and informative, keep it up :)
Hey Saab Tech, you dont happen to live in Canada around the corner from me do you?? 😄😄
Another good video from you! The dealer who sold me my 2002 Aero serviced it and installed Bosch plugs, they caused a CEL after 200 miles, gaps were way off, different on each plug. I regapped them, CEL came back after ~500 miles. Turns out that unmodified Aeros need NGK PFR6H-10 plugs, gapped at 0.95, 24Nm. She's running sweet.
Wow, bosch plugs at the dealer! That's almost fraud, you should get the money back + some more due to possible DIC damage.
I know, but I found the problem after the 30 day UK statutory guarantee had expired... too late. Anyway, I'm taking the Aero on a road trip from England to Nordkapp tomorrow, that's how much trust I have in my Saab!
Although, all this NGK hype... As long as you get the correct spark plug, any serious manufacturer (NGK, Bosch, Denso, etc) will do just fine. The problem is that people do not read the plug translation charts, which means they often do buy the wrong plugs. The NGK plugs which are standard (and hyped for) on Saabs are EASILY replaced by plugs from other manufacturers, if you actually bother to get the correct one. It's not like these very common NGK plugs are some kind of space shuttle technology.
Nope, that's incorrect. NGK plugs only in the Saabs and absolutely nothing else. Saabs have no knock sensors but use the spark plug resistance to detect misfires/knocks and this system is carefully tuned to NGK plugs.
Sorry, but, nope, that's incorrect. You are very right about what technology Saab uses for knock sensing, but other manufacturers have special "resistor" plugs as well, like the NGK "R" plugs.
Excellent video and review as always. Everything is as presented. However allow me to point out a few tips. Dielectric grease should always be used between the rubber bouts of the DIC and the spark plugs. This way you avoid the event of an ark between them. Also always use torque to secure the DIC and always perform the change when the engine is cold.
I also believe that you should have gapped the tips to 0,9 considering your tuning state or buy the NGK BCPR7ES which are already gapped to 0.9mm.
Once again Jonathan well done.
Good tip with greasing the DIC, it does say so in the manual though I've never done it myself. The tune in my car requires the -11 plugs, so I'm happy with 1.1mm unless proven otherwise :)
Great video and you didn't even have to roll up your sleeves. You make great videos! Thanks!
Hehe, spark plugs are easy :) Thanks!
Hey, nice video, I had already seen you, and now I have a 2000 aero, but I got another reference for the spark plugs: PFR7H-10 3978.
Is that correct, or should I ran to take them out?
Only one you should use. I tried the ones he recommended and car never fully boosted. Hopefully not too late..
I'n my view, the old plugs looks near perfect in colour, except being worn a bit more than desirable. Not too lean, not too rich in mixture = light brown.
I always use a dab of anti-seize paste on the threads to protect the sensitive threads in the engine head. As long as you fasten the spark plug with degrees instead of torque, there's no problem. The plugs used in this case should be turned 180 degrees if I remember correctly.
Edit: Just checked, with a compression washer, as in this case, NGK recommends 1/2-2/3 of a full turn to seat it (180-270 degrees).
I didn't have the chart with me while filming so I didn't know that the color was the perfect one. I torqued according to the Saab workshop manual, which says 28Nm.
No need to apply anti seize to NGK plug threads. They're already coated or plated to avoid seizing.
When do you apply dielectric grease to the plug boots?
When do you apply the dielectric grease to the plug boots?
Thanks for another great tutorial. Would you know if I should do or think of when installing a brand new DIC? Should it also be standing upright for 30-60 min. if you know?
Possibly, I would have done it just to be sure!
I never knew that about the DIC having to stay upright. I've gone through several after market ones and wonder if improper handling could have attributed to it. I realize after market is NOT the way go especially for the cassette. I order the OEM one last week. Hopefully that should take care of my issue. Thank you for your insight!! Love your channel!!
Yeah, the DIC is a little sensitive. But it's a good thing that you stopped using aftermarket DIC since they are universially accepted to be...well, crap. :)
Internet babble myth ! Cooling oil in the...individual... Coil cases Doesn't go anywhere .. it can't !
So 30 seconds of being upright is More than enough time for the oil to settle
HEAT is what kills the DI.
Great timing, I was going to change my plugs today and your video just came out. Many thanks as always!
Hey, that's great! Good luck with the spark plug job! :)
I tried out the Denso IQ24s based off the forums recommendation however I’m going back to NGK coppers per my tuner
What kind of Tissot watch you use?
I don't actually know. It says B870/P970 RKO-BC-47001 on the bottom
Hi all can anyone confirm whatt MM socket is needed to remove the spark plugs?
Cheers
Just a curious question about the saab dash. Is the gauge a boost gauge? I can't seem to figure it out. Trying to figure if it is showing a boost leak or if it is normal that the gauge rises, then lowers if I keep a constant throttle position.
The gauge to the upper right is actually a gauge showing the air request and is closely matched to your pedal. A full explanation is in the manual!
Hello i'm wondering how did you know how to rotate the sparkplugs to a certain point that they're not too hard and not too loose ? Also you said that they must be at around 28 N.M what do you mean by that?
I use something called a torque wrench which I set to 28 Nm. It's the big tool that says click when I reach the exact torque. See the other comments on this video for ideas on how to do it without the torque wrench! :)
Okay thank you ! :)
Hi everyone! Maybe it is late to comment Your video, but I have many doubts about my Saab 9-5. I have 2.0t BioPower with around 200 bhp and additional LPG instalation. I should in the near future change my spark plugs and there is a question. Which spark plugs i should order - of course it should be NGK branded, but gap on spark plug should be 1.1 mm or 0.9 mm or any special spark plug. Could any one advice me which one should I bought? Thanks for Your help.
According to wis one should use "universalpasta" and "smörjmedel." Is this overkill since I didn't see you do it?
I know WIS says it, but honestly, I've never seen anybody use that :)
Thanks for this, haven't changed in almost 2000 swedish miles :D Runs like a clock now!
Good time for replacement then. :)
Getting obd2 trouble code P1312 now in the summer heat.. Is it possible that the DI cassette is getting bad? I did replace the spark plugs quite recently
Yep, probably time for new DIC.
@@TrionicSeven How often do these cassettes need to be replaced roughly?
how big difference is old vs new ngk? I probably have the original plugs in (after 180kkm ;x) and going to replace them with the new one soon. Also air and fuel/oil fikters will be replaced. Shall I expect great difference before/after in my 2.0LPT?
Replace the plugs according to the service intervals and you'll be fine.
Hej! Jag köpte min 9-5 06 i 2017, och behövde byta tändkassetet i 2017 och en gång till idag, gick bara 12000km. Vad kan berör felet på? Mvh Henry
for some strange reason one of my spark plugs doesn't sit straight in the middle like the rest of the spark plugs on my Saab 9-5
At first I wondered why are You using these spark plugs and not platinum ones. Why have You chosen with gap of 1,1mm? Is it better for ethanol mixture? My OEM DIC is coming today so I wonder what type of spark plugs should I use as my engine works on LPG. One way for sure is colder spark plugs as You chose. But most tunners say that for LPG gap should be less that 1mm.
The tune is made for these very plugs. Check your manual, or if your car is tuned, ask the tuner.
Saab Lithuania fb grupė parekomenduos šituo klausimu. Ne viena tema užviesta tuo klausimu.
Sorry, I don't speak Lithuanian! :)
How do you know when your plugs need to be changed?
According to the maintenance interval!
rollotwomassey
Some videos that would be interesting would be how to replace the antennae cover, brake lights, shift knob, and removal of the dash or door panels. Just some ideas.
I need to replace at least one light on my third brake light as I get intermittent warnings on my SID, took a while for me to find it as it was not everytime and when I checked it was pretty light outside, it was also one of the end bulbs on the third brake light and it kind of blended in. Tinted windows didn't help me :)
Thanks for the tips! I'm always looking for new video ideas :)
You don't use electric grease on your plugs to the dic ?
I do.
I also spray the dic with electric cleaner while it's off.
The dic is $260
Good point, maybe I should look into that. Thanks for commenting!
Sir, your plugs look fine. The brown color on the electrode is actually the ideal.
Thanks! I didn't have the chart out with me, but you are absolutely right.
Why you didn't check the spark plug gaps?
Nothing I usually do, never seen the need.
Nice to see that you are using proper clothes for the job!
Hey, changing spark plugs on a Sunday, do you expect me to change from my Sunday clothes? :)
This video helped me out a lot, thanks! Inherited a Saab 95 2.3t se from my father in law and it had all sorts of problems. First of all it has a very obvious boost problem so as soon as I got it i went a bought a OBD2 scanner for my phone and checked out the error codes. Got 4 and all of them pointed at a faulty DI Cassette. So following your excellent video i changed it out for a new original one and changed the spark plugs at the same time. Now 3 out of 4 error codes are gone but the boost problem remained but the fuel consumption has gone down from 13 to 11 liters per 100km. It feels sluggish, like it has 50 break horse power and no turbo boost. The error code is p1105.
I've ordered a new set of vacuum hoses in silicone that are due to arrive tomorrow but i don't think that will solve my problem. Do you have any pointers that might point me in the right direction here?
Hey! Glad you like the video. I don't have any experience with that fault code but new vacuum lines. Check my video on that!
The worst thing about replacing the sparkplugs is that you have to remove the standard ”bolts-trey” 😪
Hehe
Alway´s follow the owners manual for the correct typ of spark plug and motor oil so as to prevent problems.
Exactly.
Will these work?
www.autozone.com/external-engine/spark-plug/ngk-gp-platinum-spark-plug/505371_0_0
If so, do i need to modify the plug at all?
Which car?
2002 Saab 9-5 Lanier!
Not the right plugs! You should use the same plugs as I do. :)
I just ordered them and will put them in...... THANKS!
Great job! (and you didn't even dirty your hands)
Do you take me for some kind of slob? :P
I have a 2005 SAAB 9.5, the owners manual say´s nothing on how often to change the plugs, but as I recall the Life span of nickle plated plugs is 30.000km.
NO one thinking to move THE DIC.case higher 10 to 15mm. high from engine cover BY used TEFLON insulater. SO THE DIC case not touch the engine cover .SO the DIC. unit not hot same engine cover...
Hi Jonatan and this was a nice video for those who don't know. But you did a big mistake here.
You torqued the plugs in to 28nm, checked them over again, and mounted the DI.
That's wrong. If you see on a new sparkplug, the sealing is much 'bigger' than on the old sparkplugs, what you HAVE to do is to torque it to the currect torque, witch is 28nm, loosen them up again, THAN torque them to 28nm, so the sealent is been pressured right. This is normal to do with all NGK plugs, maybe plugs from other brands like Bosch etc.
But you don't get the right pluglenght or what i could say if you do it your way here, so allways torque down the plug so the sealent got sqeezed together, loosen up, than torque it again. Sorry bad english, my iPhone want's to autocurrect everything it seems like.
I've never heard of that procedure before, and I followed the official Saab workshop instructions which simply say tighten to 28Nm. Where did you hear about the alternative procedure?
Well i 'hear' it about when i worked as a mechanic. Was changing plug in a OG9-3, did it just like you did, and the workshop manager saw it, he was not happy. I understod the reason to that if i took the new plug that only was torqued once, thinking about the gasket, than i saw why it should be done like i said.
The gasked will not compress enough with an only 1 time torque. It will offcause work the way you did it, but just think to mention it :) It's not an complain, just a note :)
And the workshop manual for Audi, VW, Skoda, Volvo, Opel says just what i'm saying. Never worked direct with saab so maybe saab did think otherway's but, yes you see what i said :)
That's what this community is all about, us learning things together! I didn't know this procedure before and it makes a lot of sense. Just wondering why WIS doesn't mention it! Thanks for teaching me something new :)
Martin Rene Olsen what sealant ? You mean bolt stretch ?
I need to do this to Anders, his plugs are darker than space
Poor Anders...
Muchas Gracias ok
One would think a guy like you would have had your valve cover repainted by now :)
Hey, don't remind me! :P
Haha, we are all there, or have been there. Both my current B234's look like that :P
Many thanks again for a great tutorial..I AM a SAABaholc..Valve cover gasket is next...But my convertible top is still on hol...lol... (BTW yu should be selling Trionic 7 tee shirts...
Haha, would anybody even buy T7 shirts? :) Glad you like the vid.
ive removed my comment as ive since been told that i was wrong.
NGK R är ett krav på saab!
yep!