Good video and quite accurate as well. Couple of thing you can do as a Saab owner to reduce the issues described. Use only full synthetic oil to reduce 'coking' and sludge issues. The PCV system will love you for it. If you did not do the above from the beginning, drop the oil pan on the engine and clean the screen. Use a generous bit of silicone paste when installing door rollers. They usually fail because of brittleness from ozone. If you're handy, make stainless deflectors for the motor mounts. Under-hood heat from the turbo is the number#1 source of degrade in those. Keep oil off of them as well. Ninety percent of DIC failures and misfires result from people putting non-NGK, non-restive plugs in these cars. Many times I've simply replaced plugs for new clients after their supposed 'tune-up' somewhere else and you can see the misfire count go to zero after clearing on TECH II. Check CPS for non intermittent signal before replacing a good DIC. I've seen a faulty CPS cause a guy to go through two of those before realizing he was after the wrong part. Blend door ...cut the arm if faulty and use the Aluminum replacement part. You'll never have to fiddle with it again. Fuel pumps usually last around 125-135K miles. Use a VOM across the two pins under the inspection plate at the back seat. Sometimes you can tap on the bottom of the tank (carefully) with a rubber mallet to get the pump turning to get you home. Another not-so-common problem, is failure of the seal in the vacuum pump bolted to the head at the valve cover. Oil will 'disappear' and you won't see any smoking or know where it's going....hint!..'brake booster'. These are great cars. You just need to think like an engineer when you work on them...and I have for a very, very long time. Keep up the good postings.
@P K There's rubber hose low down near the sump at the back of the motor, it's part of the PCV system, it gets old and cracks, or splits and suddenly you've got this large mysterious oil leak.
Thank you so much for this!!! I just bought a 2005 9-5 aero wagon as my fun car, and now I have a whole list of things to tinker on. I'm so glad I found your channel!
Great vid! I would like to add a few common classics. Regarding sludge, it is very common on later cars too, usually thats had long ("right") oil change intervals and been driven short journeys. 1. Thermostat/temperature sensor. 2. Short life span rear shocks (especially on SC). 3. Short life span rear A bushings 4. Reverse syncro on manuals. 5. Broken/clogged PCV check valve. 6. Subframe bushings (more common than bad motor mounts). 7. Rod bearings (mostly hard driven Aeros). 8. GT17 Turbos (big one, but i'll guess most american trims are TD04). 9. Clogged throttle body. 10. Servo pump failure and hose leaks. 11. Overall oil problems, sludge and consumption, worn out piston rings, turbo going bad etc. And a lot more of course, especially THAT BLOODY ALARM SIREN BATTERY!
I've had a couple of those of my 2004 9-5 Aero (180k miles): DIC changed after misfires when pulling away from junctions ($100 or so. I also changed plugs to approved NGKs, another $50 or so), coolant bypass valve was making my drive a nice green colour ($25 part, pita to change), and my HVAC/heater is playing up with a 1-11 code (I have the new blend door arms, just haven't got round to changing them yet). Couple other things worth mentioning that I've experienced: the vacuum hoses perish after 10 years or so, so worth investing in 10 foot of silicone hose (1/4 inch or 6mm if I remember rightly) to replace them. Saab forums have useful guides as to where they all go. Another thing is the brake boost valve. The hoses to the valve are tough as nails, but the valve itself has brittle connectors and can snap off. This will lead to very uneven idle. The part itself is about $25 and can be fitted in about 3 minutes - so simple, even I managed it !
my son has a 2004 SAAB 95 ARC we just replaced the fuel pump in his,highschool parking lot&it still not getting fuel/cranking.I dont know if the new pump is bad are what but was running great then died on him last Tuesday*the fuel pump was working we raised the back set &checked&ordered the new one &got it this Tuesday&installed it &its not priming/working.
Great video for any SAAB 9-5 owner or prospective owner. 90,000 miles now on my 2008 9-5. Replaced the DIC at 61,000 miles and the heater bypass at 71,000. Haven't replaced the fuel pump yet. On my year, you have to drop the gas tank. Earlier years can be accessed through the backseat. My original window winds are still working as is the blendor.
Excellent video! I loved my 01 9-5. All of these points are so true however, if you take good care of these cars they are super reliable. I've had issues with and replaced my CPS, coolant bypass valve, and fuel pump. Luckily never had issues with the window rollers - crappy GM plastic. Other issues include the SID or the information display panel - the ribbon separates from the board (easy fix with a new ribbon & solder kit). The fuel pump is a super common issue (If your car stalls and then won't start and no codes- it will leave you stranded- start with the fuel pump). Coolant bypass valve and CPS are common but easy / cheap repairs. Great video!
Hahaha great looking coolant bypass valve xD Pro tip: that's the T7 boost pressure control valve... The coolant valve sits at the lower middle part of the firewall :D EDIT: Also the purpose of the valve is to *block off* coolant flow to the heat exchanger in the car on hot days so that the AC work more efficiently by not pushing the cold air past a heater core filled with hot coolant.
I bought my Saab from my girlfriend’s dad who’s a mechanical engineer and a total Saab nerd. Everything you said aligned with what I’ve hear from him. Plus we’ve already replaced a bad fuel pump. Great video
In the 10 years that I have owned my 2004 9-5 estate, I have done 6 of these. CPS acting up now, but only when I accelerate hard, so... and the coolant valve. That's worth looking into
Good video, thanks. I've already dealt with the fuel pump, motor and transmission mounts, DIC, and there's one more problem you forgot, is the wiring harness in the trunk lid, with all the lights, on the left top side on the lid, over time will rub the harness and disect/cut the wires, leaving you with no brake lights, etc. I did all of this on this 2004 9-5 I got a little over a year ago. I got it pretty cheap, but all these problems I had to deal with when I got it. And on the coolant bypass valve, I just did a bypass on that bad boy. Took it out. There is a site online that shows you how to do it. That POS bypass valve is a pain in the arse, I reccomend removing it. And here recently I just repaced both c/v axles/hub bearings, inner and outter tie rods/sway bars. Check the c/v axles for sure, cause if one goes bad and falls off, you will have all kinds of problems with that axle swinging around and tearing stuff up. Mine on the right side was just barely hanging on, and I had to drive it 60 miles to a friends house to change it, and I was lucky as hell it did not come off.
Great video! But I've commented your videos before. And i work as a Road Worthiness inspector(Bilprovningen) i Sweden. You did mention some of the problems with the engine, like the oil sludge. But the Crankshaft ventilation is another major problem with the 9-3 and 9-3. On the 9-5 the oil sludge is often solved by upgrading the crankshaft ventilation. SAAB has an updates crankshaft installation. I Changed it on my 9-5.The work sucked, but i was worth it! But the biggest thing with the 9-5 is the rear. The rear suspension is very undermined for what the car is made for so when you get the chance raise the rear of the car and check the tires. Do the typical wheel bearing move and you most likely will feel not the wheel bearing but the bear-arm bushing, the tire will move. On my Cartestingstation 4 out of 10 cars have so harsh remark on the car that they on get to drive to the nearest available workshop. The 9-3 have a similar problem. The spindle joints in the rear will have some play which it shouldn't. But to feel that move in the rear on the 9-3 you have to raise the car beneath the shocks. If you raise the car with the bear arms you most likely wont feel the play at all....
My sons 2004 SAAB 95 quit last Tuesday as he pulled into his highschool&the fuel pump was coming working&we ordered a new one&it still want crank&we checked all the fuses replaced the relay&im thinking we may have gotten a bad new fuel pump but I was wondering if you could please give me any advice
Good list. I'd move window rollers to the number 2 slot. Other not so common, but likely with age: Starter. Alternator. Neutral safety switch end linkage. Vacuum lines splitting and rotting out. Gas struts for the hood and hatch. Dirt/Corrosion in the seat memory buttons (results in seat reclining to the full back position).
To avoid the black sludge make sure you install a so called “mod 6” on the engine. This is what prevents the black sludge on the later models and can be retrofitted on older models. It is very simple and not expensive.
As a SAAB enthusiast and owner of several SAAB i think you made a great video. There is two MINOR faults in the video, 1 First SAAB 9-5 was build in -98, not in -99. 2. Explaining the coolant valve you showed the boost pressure control valve. All the problem is easy to fix, except changing the fuel pump , that can be a pain in the as if your not careful. Overall the T7 engine is not a great engine, When Saab made the engine they wanted to lower the cost and therefor made the block walls thinner and the piston lighter and at the same time weaker.
rather important thing about those cassettes, make sure that the one your putting back in, hasn't been laying on it's side or upside down. if so, stand it up and let it sit upright for a while or leave it like so over night to be extra careful. theres a type of oil in that helps to cool the coil packs and sensors. just installing them half hazardly like mostly any ignition system is rather detrimental to their life span which may explain why they're famous for failing.
I've done all of these except fuel pump and diverter. I just did Coolent Bypass valve at 174k and am and my passenger side window roller went out at the same time. So yeah, nailed it.
4:57 I can see that list, hehe ;) On the serious note however, you forgot about the rear control arm bushings. Those go bad pretty fast, causing negative camber and a horrible clunking noise. Changing them is not a big problem unless you live in the rust belt. Also, it's a good idea to keep a spare fuel pump assembly in your trunk (ask me how I know).
Auto Autopsy I certainly will. Besides, it gives me reason to re-join the UK Saab owners club. I took the 9-3 cabrio to their 40th anniversary show. Was awesome seeing an airfield full of Saabs of all types.
I have a '99 9-5 4 cyl since off lease in 2002 with 30,000 miles. I have not had any of the problems you mention and now summer 2018 with 143,000 it is holding up very well (far superior to the 9000). My worst problem is with an electrical wiring short which caused engine shut down, but once corrected has been fine. Wonderful comfort and handling. There are fewer and fewer of them which eventually may make them more valuable , but in the end they finally produced some great vehicles.
I have an 08 Dame and just had the maptun suspension kit installed along with the maptun strut brace. Having the front pads and rotors done tomorrow. Have akebono euros going on and a set of viggen slotted rotors. I'm trying to get the handling and stopping done before I increase the power. Love these cars.
Well like any other car it's got some problems... I had to change the air con arm with alu one and now works perfect... No sludge problem... Nothing from above mentioned. A friend bought Porsche Boxter, and had troubles with windows as mantioned in the video and furthermore catastrofic failure of IMS bearing resulting engine failure! Can you imagine big name such as Porsche having such a poor design?!!! Costing a lot more than Saab to buy and maintain. After all at the end of the day Saab can be a lot more reliable than many so called "premium" brands if you care a bit 😉 Maintain and enjoy your Saab's people 👍
The coolant "bypass" valve is there to keep hot coolant from circulating into the heater core when you are using the a/c to cool down the passenger compartment. its only intalled on 1997-2005 9-5's newer 9-5s does not have the valve.
Regarding the fuel pump, if you firmly hit the middle of the fuel tank under the car you can get the engine to run for around 10 minutes. It's happened to my twice over the years.
I just bought an 07 9-5 it runs great and it's clean. It's throwing two codes a p1400 and a p1251 I have a lot too learn. But it will be fun to try something different.
If you're handy and have a chunk of aluminum lying around you can fairly easily fabricate your own HVAC arm, bit of cutting, drilling and filing and et voila! Also worth noting, the rear springs on 2001 aero era cars are too weak (don't know if they fixed it), if you go to replace them you'll discover that other than OEM the only option is 10mm lower heavy duty springs, you should definitely get the heavy duty springs, the lower height will simply mean your ride height will be correct since they're stiffer. Using the OEMs won't help the fundamental problem which is too much camber on the back when loaded or sagging, which in turn scrubs out the inner face of the tires prematurely. The green window roller problem is such that you can buy whole bags of them on eBay..... My number one tip, replace ALL the rubber hoses with silicone equivalents, you want your SAAB to survive as it gets older!
The throttle body also gets gummed up with carbon and needs to be cleaned every so often. But if it goes bad the throttle body looks to be just above $300 (OEM) or if just the solenoid valve is bad $70, and not the hardest thing to change as it sits right up top. And for the most part you just need to clean the built up carbon to get it working right from what i ran into myself and what i see online. Mine has 175K+ miles on it (35K miles from myself). And the vacuum system has a LOT of vacuum leak potentials lol. When i had mine i had to replace almost all seals and lines other than the PCV system ones. Then there's the HVAC control that has a screen with a crap-tastic connection to the board. And my center brake light decided to just fall off one day, upon inspection it was just dry-rotted plastic and used some steel wire to get it back up about 2 years ago. BUT! one huge problem is the trunk's wire harness, the nipple coming off the trunk has a innecessaraly hard bend with a hard angle inside of it to help break/cut the cables. That will happen every few years if you use the trunk a lot and dont correct for the hard bend. I cut a nice smooth curve into it so it wouldn't dig into the wires anymore. In total I haven't spent that much on it. Out of the normal stuff, about $150 with almost 3 years of ownership. Much MUCH less than when i had a turbo Supra. And very well into the normal low end for a luxury brand, although it's no Lexus or Acura.. it's not that much more IMO from buying one that needed work and drove for 35K+ miles over 3 years. Although it might have problems that might get misdiagnosed at some shops and could cost you.
Thanks for the video - all the problems you named on the B235R are correct! In germany the small brakes on the 9-5 Aero are a problem, especially if you often go over 120mph. Plus you have to check the vacuum hoses and the nonreturn valve if the engine doesn´t run properly, a tiny air leakage can cause some trouble.
Dad had a Saab back in the 80's, got a lemon and drove him crazy. My uncle has, and still does an 05 9-5 with 200k+ miles. Taught me how to drive stick in it. I've always wanted this car but dad said no Saabs allowed.
Nice job my 2002 Linear with 221K has experienced all those problems. I've also had to rebuild the 5 speed auto, and get a new cassette for the turbo. Currently I need motor mounts again. Nevertheless the car is a joy to drive. Other future projects might involve the oil seepage and worn bushes. I did recently need to replace sway bar links and bushes
I just took my car (2004 9-5 2.3t wagon) out into the woods today, to a guy who I can only describe as a car guru, and his favourite brand, and also the one he has worked on the most, is Saab, so I trust everything he says. He even quickly found and fixed 2 vacum leaks for me. Well I fixed one, but he gave me the materials and then he fixed the other one for free. He also listed up many of the common problems for me, and even showed me a Ignition casette that had gone bad. More specifically it had cracked on the plastic part, and allowed water to seep in somehow, and that is apparently what does the killing of theese casettes.
For increasing lifetime of the DI-cassette it is recommended to change spark plugs regurarly. I change them every 6000 miles when I do the oil change. And the right plug for b2x5 engines is NGK BCPR7ES-11. Do not use any other brand of spark plugs or it will kill your cassette. Also I would add balance shaft chain and timing chain issues. They tend to stretch over time and start to rattle. If not repaired, balance chain will grind hole to the block, exposing the oil channel, eventually destroying the engine.
I have a 2005 Saab 9-5 that the key gets stuck in the ignition sometimes. I've read this is kind of common. Also, when the key is not in the ignition and the driver's door is open, there's dinging.
Good vid 👌🏼 While swapping out the D.I.C. for a Genuine SAAB one (as the aftermarket cheapees don’t last very long) stick a set of fresh NGK spark plugs in there as well 👍🏼
Hey dude, I liked your video 👍🏼 Very professionally explained. I own a 95 1.9tid linear. I'm happy with it. Just a few things I would love to hear advice is with a steering wheel alignment and vibration. My mechanic says it could be many things. We have noticed that the tracking alignment doesn't really help make the steering wheel straigh and centered. And yet the vibrations persist depending on the position of the wheels whether they're straight or in an angle. Also a minor issue is the key washers, one of them is blocked, and solutions on these two problems please? I also noticed the noises from the engine mounts, and yes it sounds like a crushed rubber when turning in corners.
Yeah you could need new motor mounts, especially as the car ages. Could be number of things for the alignment. tie rods, end links, etc. It would probably be best to take it to a mechanic to diagnose exactly what it needs
My son has one and it has a multiple misfire . We have changed spark plugs , coils , and spark modual and the light keeps coming back . I am wondering if this could be solved by replacing Crank sensor ? What do you think?
The coolant bypass valve cuts off heat into the cabin heater core when you select full AC at coldest temp to get max cooling. They also fail in the 9-5 SE with V6 engine.
Throttle bodies go bad on the 99-03 years fairly often. I believe it was those years. I always keep a spare one and DIC in the back of my wagon. Along with all fluids. Ignitions can be suspect on the 9-5’s that have broken front cupholders because more than likely it broke when there was a McDonalds XL soda in it and it dumped all over the center console. All the light assemblies on the rear seem to leak moisture into them. Air leaks on the intake are common along with a BPC solenoid and MAF sensors
I own a '99 9 5, bought it in early 2021, had less than 49,000 miles on it, it's now at just under 67,000. Within the past week have experienced periodic slow acceleration both from a dead stop and while actually driving. RPMs run up but acceleration does not match. There are NO warning lights. Had codes read at an AutoZone and nothing came back. Any ideas?
@@AutoAutopsy Yeah, the transmission's shot. Having it replaced. There was a small leak of transmission fluid but my mechanic wasn't too concerned, he just said to keep an eye on it. For a little more than a week the fluid was right at MAX on the dip stick, then something caused it to drain empty, the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and CHECK GEAR BOX lights came on and . . . Up to that point NO lights came on and thus no code was thrown, so . . . Now I'm driving a rental, waiting for the work to be done. Aghhhh!
I had the window roller go. Currently I'm not getting heat in the cabin. I replaced the thermostat and flushed the coolant. It was sluggy. Still no heat! Could it be the coolant bypass valve?
Good video. I can tell that I have an Aero 9-5 from 2003 that I have owned for 10 years now and I have never had any faults on it. I have done all the service myself. I've never had the eight problems you tell us about. What is important to look at when buying such a fantastic car such as SAAB Aero is how many owners have had it and how is it managed. If the truth comes out, they are great fun driving from chewing gum tough guys in BMW and Mercedes with an old SAAB. The last 8 years my car has been tuned with 3´ exhaust system and nordic tuning software (about 280 hp). Nowadays I have the software myself and try different settings. A SAAB Aero Is an Investment. Just wait....The prices Is goung up now. Here In sweden today you have to pay at least $3000 for a good Aero from 2003. Before a couple a years ago you coul´d almost get It fro free. I´ll think If you are carful and can ceep your SAAB in good condition this car can be an Investment. I´ll thing aprox $25000 year 2035.
Great video, thanks. Have a question for you. My 2005 9-5 was running great, the intermediate flex pipe decided it was time to break from the rest of the system. A few days later, the car died in driveway while at idle. Would restart as long as I was on the accelerator a bit, but would die when taking foot of the gas. Thought the Idle Air Sensor may be the problem, but Saab dealer says the 2005 9-5 doesn't have one. I live 110 miles from the dealer, and not comfortable with their abilities, and not sure if my local mechanic has much knowledge about Saabs, probably not. Any ideas. ?? Thanks, Larry, AKA Grumpydoc.
The shift linkages are a headache in the early gen 9-5s for the standard trans, because of the plastic housings that connect to the ball joints. They can break overtime and just make for an overall sloppy shift. Later they reinforced the design with more robust metal housings which is how they should have been engineered in the first place.
Turbo often fails after 200.000km if the car have been driven short trips all its life so the engine temp doesnt go up that far making sludge a huge problem on the older 9-5 (98 to 03) and of course oil changes being skipped and going way over due, that is what i have experienced but then i tuned both of mine and after a year or so the original turbo cant take it any more and the white wall appears after the car, not hard at all to replace the small GT17 to a TD04HL-15T, if all exhaust bolt comes out without breaking it can be done in 1.5 hours
This also applies the B205E powered 9-5's as well, but I guess you never got that engine in the US. And of course the B235E and L engines. Not just the R.
Piston rings are common on tuned 9-5s Over 1, 5 bar they get stuck and then you have to use t5 pistons milled 1,1 mm to acomedate T7 headgasket. I have done this and much more on my - 00 aero
Actually it's not that bad, you fix some easy things and you have your car sorted! Would also recommend replacing all the hoses with silicon hoses, especially the heater and vacuum lines. True for any car once they get to 15+ years.
I have a year 2000 9-5 with 170k miles on it. I’ve replaced everything thing on this video atleast once. Only things I can add are the CAT getting abused more from the re-use of burning evaporated oil, and pretty much every single motor mount, bushing, subframe bushings, tie rod.(pretty much everything underneath the car that is polyurethane or rubber) just replace it. 9-5’s will never ride correctly without all bushings replaced. I’ve spent hundreds over the years getting road force balances trying to solve shake issues that were not even from wheels.
One thing that stopped me from buying used SAAB was stories of DIC not just misfiring but failing completely while people drive on the highway and causing a very dangerous situation since DIC's failure would also mean no brake assist and no power steering. Now I wonder if people were over dramatizing their experiences.
I really love your videos, so I just bought a 2595 aero and I’m having a few issues. The first issue is an oil leak the mechanic said a crank seal something LOL… I also have a really bad negative camber in the rear, is that shams? And is transmission cooler lines a common problem that leak also?
Another common problem with SAAB 9-5 is that the regulator motors for hot/cold temperatures inside the coupé tend to break leaving eighter the passanger or driver side blowing max cold or hot. It broke on my car on the drivers side and blew burning hot air on me constantly. You fix it ''simply'' by replacing the regulator motor but on the drivers side it's tight to say the least...
i got a SAAB 9-5 2,3t 2000 and they made a rebuild kit for the sludge problems. The only problems i realy got on this 275000 km was the fuelpump while running on E85 (Etanol) because the E(5 is very dry and you got to have a ceramic pump for this. Then i have-a-trim kit from Maptun stage4 and some more things and nearly 330 horepower and it still runns very good. So keep your Saab and never sell it :)
My 2003 9-5 Aero with 100,000 Miles List: Alternator, SID (ribbon replacement), Fuel Pump, Throttle Body, Thermostat and Engine Coolant Sensor, Blend Door Actuator, Direct Injection Cassette. Still having random P1530 codes, sending the throttle body into limp-home mode.
Good video. I've been looking to get a 9-5 between with the 2006-2009 body style. Black on Black would be ideal. I've been researching this model for some years and think of it as an ideal car for my style, travel needs and to an extent personality. Looking to buying a solid one within the next year or so that's been well-maintained w/ service records. Finding parts are somewhat of a concern, however - I like these so much that I'd take the time to learn how to do the fixes myself. Good info. My other issue would be what I understand to be a head gasket leakage issue. Not knowing if a 9-5 had that issue and for how long would raise some eyebrows as I'm sure that could lead to other engine replacement issues if left untreated. Thank for the vid man.
What seems to be a common 9-5 problem is EVAP issues. Mainly the one way check valves failing and/or related hoses leaking and at times the solenoid fault . CEL code P0441 The 9-5 ALSO the Engine codes for the YS3E are: Linear B235E, ARC B235L , Aero B235R .
direct ignition cassette - check power window rollers - 4x check fuel pump - check crank shaft position sensor - check Added - oil trap valve hose Added - almost all vacuum hoses to turbo Added - digital control panel display - not good in the hot weather Added plus learn to do the work, not that hard and you can't break it anymore than it is broke and if it is as old as mine (2004 w/ 115k) either fix it yourself or junk it. I choose to do the work myself 3 years ago, seems like every year I have a new project. If it wasn't such a fun car to drive I would have let it go.
I have a 9 5 wagon, turbo, has been wonderful. One thing my mechanic can't figure out is the air bag light comes on 2-3x per driving trip. He thinks it won't deploy if needed. Where can I get this fixed?
I know this is kind of an older video but I just purchased a used 2005 9-5 arc and it seems that the turbo is not boosting and the engine just has no power, making it a very slow car. Does anyone have experience with this or know where the issue lies? Thanks for taking the time to read this!
Thank you for doing this video. I would like to purchase a low mileage (28,000 miles) 9-5 Aero and I found it very helpful. I have a very important question that will determine whether or not I will buy it: Are these parts still available in 2003? Many thanks in advance.
Thanks! I just bought a 2001 9-5 Aero with 28,900 miles on it in absolutely mint condition with no rust. A wonderful car!! It's comforting to know I can get parts- I couldn't find a replacement windshield for my '97 9000, so I was a little concerned. There are two faults. 1.) the shark fin antenna is toast. Can it be replaced from the roof, or will I need to remove the headliner? How do you do it? Can my mechanic do it or should I seek out a body shop? It looks like it will leak in the rain. 2.) The plastic that protects the wheel well edges has detached itself from the metal. The clips won't hold it against the rim- the gap will trap crud and eventually cause rust. Are replacement plastic liners available? Should I bring it to a body shop? I was considering using a heat gun to soften it, but the car is so sweet, and I would hate to butcher it. I have no regrets at all about buying this incredible car. I wish you lived nearby! Thanks for the good advice- I truly appreciate it and have subscribed to your channel. I'll definitely study your parts video. @@AutoAutopsy
Got a first gen 9-5 aero 2.3t and bought it for a year ago but can’t really call it reliable since I’ve had to swap turbo, all vacuum lines, springs, coolant hose, catalytic converter etc
Ok...can you guys help me out. I am almost certainly going to sign a deal in the next day or 2 to buy an 08 9-5 aero. When I told my neighbour, he made faces at me like I was nuts buying a Saab because parts would be hard to find and repairs expensive. I am handy enough to change oil or fill fluids and maybe figure a few things out, but im not not a car nut or mechanic. So...am I nuts for buying a 12 year old Saab? There is a bit of rust and a small area of "poor fix" at the front fender , too small for an accident. The engine seems great. The interior looks brand new. Any help would be appreciated
Hello Auto Autopsy! have a 2001 9-5 wagon (2.3L Turbo). My tranny just died!!! It was making a loud grinding noise in reverse and then after about a month, the noises were transferring into the forward gears. Then last Saturday, I slowed to park and the power just cut off. I was able start and drive around the block and then the power cut off again. Is it worth the money to have it replaced? I can take it to my mechanic to have it diagnosed before a buy a cheap car on Craigslist. Someone told me I have to replace the tranny (transaxle) inexpensively, but the labor cost would be HUGE! Do you please have any recommendations? Thank you and have a nice COOL day!
Another problem is the Neutral Safety Switch can go bad due to fouling; being the contacts get sticky or dirty but you can either remove it and take it apart to clean the contacts and do light dust of anti-seize compound but then to reassemble it but may have to use an epoxy medium to ensure the housing components are secured and no breaches for future fouling... Or just buy a new one to replace it? I have a 2001 9-5 Aero 2.3L [ 4th Saab car since 1989 ] I bought the Aero back in 2004 as 2nd owner; having turbo issues recently for the 1st time; turbo whining at low acceleration speeds as the noise dissipates past 14/15 mph and returns at 10 mph to idle plus having low boost issues/ irregularity while driving... at engine start, high RPMs to about 1400+ then drops to normal idle RPMs takes about 30 seconds or so to normal... No Check Engine Light at all?... plus a leaky water pump either need a replacement or just a bad O-ring or gasket or both? I also have an oil leak from one or both oil cooler hoses? Since the surrounding passenger side has the oil leak on the lower part of the engine area and some that drip onto the ground after been driving... I did experience oil sludge like back in 2007 [ lucky I had extended GM warranty as the cost was over $6k ] and had to have a rebuilt lower transmission block there was a fix to replace the oil screen to the oil pan but I could not find in time being the afterthought after the work was done to replace with an older OEM screen from a 900 model that has much larger openings than the 1st generation had been too fine of an oil screen if you ask me? Oil coking sludge would cause a blockage to starve the engine of oil not to cycle through... The first owner was using standard oil for the most part which was a bad mistake as the recommendation was to use full synthetic oil only?!? I am on a budget nowadays and to find me an OE replacement turbo but you can't find one for a TD04HL-18T? The best aftermarket being a direct-fit or exact-fit would be a 15T compressor or maybe go up to a 19T upgrade if I can afford one? As labor isn't cheap and to pay a mechanic ASE level hourly that is timed for the type of service so far is either nearly 1000 or higher? I did find someone that is an ASE certified mechanic that worked on Saabs in California dealership for over 4 years gave me a quote of $530 bucks at his shop as I would buy the parts would be best to save money! It still has lower mileage of only 115k+ not bad for nearly 19 years old as it was built in August 2001.
Nice video. I've had an issue with my 2002 9-5 lately. If I drive it for a while, it doesnt want to accelerate. At stop lights it takes a long time for it to get up to speed. But after I turn the car off for an hour or so it's perfectly fine. It's been going on for a few weeks and its happened to me 3 times. Any ideas?
Sounds like it's going into something called "limp home mode," which means the computer thinks there's something seriously wrong with the car. Now, that doesn't mean something is actually wrong with the car, so I'd advise by starting with disconnecting the battery. If that persists, check if there's a check engine light and have that read
I got a question for you, I am stuck I own a 2008 9-5 2.3t it went over a curb and has not started since.The inertia switch needs to be reset, however I can't seem to find it. Do you have any idea?
Hey i have a question: does it matter if its a 95 wagon or a sedan? and should I expect the same problems outlined in the video? Any help would be very appreciated!
I have a 06 9-5 that will start when it's cold and continue to idle but as soon as I give it some gas, it dies. Why? Also is the fuel filter inside the gas tank? Cause I can't find it.
I have a 2001 saab 9-3 turbo. It starts great and idles fine. I can Rev it and no problems. But as soon as I put on drive it stalls out and shut off. I read forum it say casset plugs and check the sparks house for oil. Any other advice, I replace the pcv check valve which was broken. I will check these items.
could be those too; im not an expert on the older 9-3's. I would think it could also be the CPS. it might be best to post on some facebook groups for help
Quite. Saab used the Bosch 5.3 series ABS control units known for breaking mass cables. Diagnosis is straightforward: check brake lights plus check engine light plus occasional speedo and mileage counter failure plus fault code P1925. These parts can be refurbished by specialized shops. You can remove and re-install them yourself (there is a rather good vid on yt by ericthecarguy). As a fairIy inexperienced DIYer, I found it rather difficult though because some parts don't come off as easily as described and some of the screws are half covered by the fuse box above the unit.
I also had to replace the ignition coils I'm my saab 9-5 2001. Yesterday took it to a Saab mechanic with the oil pressure light on and he warned of sludge and dropping the oil pan for cleaning or some kind of pressure sludge cleaning. Replaced the oil pressure switch and problem seems to be gone for now.
Russ, a one Time saab body man told me he saw mechanic using a big curved ice pick type tool to stab holes in the pick up screen to get oil pressure back on a car. Just something I heard, good luck.
I have a 2003 areo 2-9 wagon, my friend has a earlier 2-9, both car crank slow, they both start ok they just crank slow, im new to this car he is not he said it always starts that way Thanks Patrick
I'm looking at 2 Saabs on craigslist. Both are 9-5s. a 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero sedan 5 Speed Stick and a 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero Sedan. I don't have the money on me to buy one now but as soon as I sell this slow Mercedes Diesel, I'll get my hands on another Saab. I miss having one!
I'm looking at 2002 9-5 manual with 260,000 miles for 1500$. They guy said he did a lot of work on replacing parts. But he did warn me these are really expensive to fix. How expensive are these compared let's say to volvo or BMW?
I got a 2001 9-5 2.3 170hp, and I strongly think that I got issues with the DIC. When I throttle the engine does not go up more than 2000/2500 t... In other words the car does not have power and does not go higher in regime. Would that be the issue? Thanks buddy!
I'm having a problem with accelerating, when i accelerate it doesn't have that push that it did, it just accelerates too plane an smooth, i thought the problem could be with the turbo but apparently it isn't, any ideas? I have a 2000 saab 9-5 2.3t, thank you already, good vid :)
@@FinDJ120964 Sorry, no, not if it's the 2.3t as in lpt or low pressure turbo. NGK BCPR6ES-11 is the recommended plug. This is from the manual. Where is your information from?
@@geecrawdad I read this information from WIS and EPC, i have latest version of both. (WIS = Workshop Information System, EPC = Electronic Parts Catalogue)
Good video and quite accurate as well.
Couple of thing you can do as a Saab owner to reduce the issues described.
Use only full synthetic oil to reduce 'coking' and sludge issues. The PCV system will love you for it.
If you did not do the above from the beginning, drop the oil pan on the engine and clean the screen.
Use a generous bit of silicone paste when installing door rollers. They usually fail because of brittleness from ozone.
If you're handy, make stainless deflectors for the motor mounts. Under-hood heat from the turbo is the number#1 source of degrade in those. Keep oil off of them as well.
Ninety percent of DIC failures and misfires result from people putting non-NGK, non-restive plugs in these cars.
Many times I've simply replaced plugs for new clients after their supposed 'tune-up' somewhere else and you can see the misfire count go to zero after clearing on TECH II.
Check CPS for non intermittent signal before replacing a good DIC. I've seen a faulty CPS cause a guy to go through two of those before realizing he was after the wrong part.
Blend door ...cut the arm if faulty and use the Aluminum replacement part. You'll never have to fiddle with it again.
Fuel pumps usually last around 125-135K miles. Use a VOM across the two pins under the inspection plate at the back seat.
Sometimes you can tap on the bottom of the tank (carefully) with a rubber mallet to get the pump turning to get you home.
Another not-so-common problem, is failure of the seal in the vacuum pump bolted to the head at the valve cover.
Oil will 'disappear' and you won't see any smoking or know where it's going....hint!..'brake booster'.
These are great cars.
You just need to think like an engineer when you work on them...and I have for a very, very long time.
Keep up the good postings.
Thank you Saabjock! Great information and tips :)
Hello! My saab 9-5, 2007 2 liter biopower loses oil without leaking. Can you eleborate on the "not-so common problem" about the vacuum pump?
Saab jock... would love to pick your brain about a few items in my 2006 Saab 9-5 do you have an email
P K hej oljeläckan du frågar om kommer från oljetrycksgivaren. byt ut den och du läcker kommer att sluta.
@P K There's rubber hose low down near the sump at the back of the motor, it's part of the PCV system, it gets old and cracks, or splits and suddenly you've got this large mysterious oil leak.
Picked up an ‘07 9-5 as my first car about a month ago and I love it!! Amazing machine
awesome :)
Thank you so much for this!!! I just bought a 2005 9-5 aero wagon as my fun car, and now I have a whole list of things to tinker on. I'm so glad I found your channel!
Glad I could held Rachel! Enjoy your 9-5!
Great vid! I would like to add a few common classics. Regarding sludge, it is very common on later cars too, usually thats had long ("right") oil change intervals and been driven short journeys.
1. Thermostat/temperature sensor. 2. Short life span rear shocks (especially on SC). 3. Short life span rear A bushings 4. Reverse syncro on manuals. 5. Broken/clogged PCV check valve. 6. Subframe bushings (more common than bad motor mounts). 7. Rod bearings (mostly hard driven Aeros). 8. GT17 Turbos (big one, but i'll guess most american trims are TD04). 9. Clogged throttle body. 10. Servo pump failure and hose leaks. 11. Overall oil problems, sludge and consumption, worn out piston rings, turbo going bad etc. And a lot more of course, especially THAT BLOODY ALARM SIREN BATTERY!
Thanks for sharing! Noted
Many thanx!
I've had a couple of those of my 2004 9-5 Aero (180k miles): DIC changed after misfires when pulling away from junctions ($100 or so. I also changed plugs to approved NGKs, another $50 or so), coolant bypass valve was making my drive a nice green colour ($25 part, pita to change), and my HVAC/heater is playing up with a 1-11 code (I have the new blend door arms, just haven't got round to changing them yet).
Couple other things worth mentioning that I've experienced: the vacuum hoses perish after 10 years or so, so worth investing in 10 foot of silicone hose (1/4 inch or 6mm if I remember rightly) to replace them. Saab forums have useful guides as to where they all go. Another thing is the brake boost valve. The hoses to the valve are tough as nails, but the valve itself has brittle connectors and can snap off. This will lead to very uneven idle. The part itself is about $25 and can be fitted in about 3 minutes - so simple, even I managed it !
Great tips! Keep enjoying your 9-5
my son has a 2004 SAAB 95 ARC we just replaced the fuel pump in his,highschool parking lot&it still not getting fuel/cranking.I dont know if the new pump is bad are what but was running great then died on him last Tuesday*the fuel pump was working we raised the back set &checked&ordered the new one &got it this Tuesday&installed it &its not priming/working.
@@kevinroark4346 damn hate how no one got back to you , you ever fix the problem bud
Great video for any SAAB 9-5 owner or prospective owner. 90,000 miles now on my 2008 9-5. Replaced the DIC at 61,000 miles and the heater bypass at 71,000. Haven't replaced the fuel pump yet. On my year, you have to drop the gas tank. Earlier years can be accessed through the backseat. My original window winds are still working as is the blendor.
Cool! Hopefully you wont encounter many more problems
So my 2001 9-5's fuel pump should be accessable through a port under the back seat?
@@lilythomson881 yes
Excellent video! I loved my 01 9-5. All of these points are so true however, if you take good care of these cars they are super reliable. I've had issues with and replaced my CPS, coolant bypass valve, and fuel pump. Luckily never had issues with the window rollers - crappy GM plastic. Other issues include the SID or the information display panel - the ribbon separates from the board (easy fix with a new ribbon & solder kit). The fuel pump is a super common issue (If your car stalls and then won't start and no codes- it will leave you stranded- start with the fuel pump). Coolant bypass valve and CPS are common but easy / cheap repairs. Great video!
Thanks!
Hahaha great looking coolant bypass valve xD
Pro tip: that's the T7 boost pressure control valve...
The coolant valve sits at the lower middle part of the firewall :D
EDIT: Also the purpose of the valve is to *block off* coolant flow to the heat exchanger in the car on hot days so that the AC work more efficiently by not pushing the cold air past a heater core filled with hot coolant.
Thanks for sharing :)
I bought my Saab from my girlfriend’s dad who’s a mechanical engineer and a total Saab nerd. Everything you said aligned with what I’ve hear from him. Plus we’ve already replaced a bad fuel pump. Great video
nice! thanks dylan
In the 10 years that I have owned my 2004 9-5 estate, I have done 6 of these. CPS acting up now, but only when I accelerate hard, so... and the coolant valve. That's worth looking into
wow, thanks for sharing
Good video, thanks. I've already dealt with the fuel pump, motor and transmission mounts, DIC, and there's one more problem you forgot, is the wiring harness in the trunk lid, with all the lights, on the left top side on the lid, over time will rub the harness and disect/cut the wires, leaving you with no brake lights, etc. I did all of this on this 2004 9-5 I got a little over a year ago. I got it pretty cheap, but all these problems I had to deal with when I got it. And on the coolant bypass valve, I just did a bypass on that bad boy. Took it out. There is a site online that shows you how to do it. That POS bypass valve is a pain in the arse, I reccomend removing it. And here recently I just repaced both c/v axles/hub bearings, inner and outter tie rods/sway bars. Check the c/v axles for sure, cause if one goes bad and falls off, you will have all kinds of problems with that axle swinging around and tearing stuff up. Mine on the right side was just barely hanging on, and I had to drive it 60 miles to a friends house to change it, and I was lucky as hell it did not come off.
Really? Interesting, thanks for sharing!
Great video!
But I've commented your videos before. And i work as a Road Worthiness inspector(Bilprovningen) i Sweden. You did mention some of the problems with the engine, like the oil sludge. But the Crankshaft ventilation is another major problem with the 9-3 and 9-3. On the 9-5 the oil sludge is often solved by upgrading the crankshaft ventilation. SAAB has an updates crankshaft installation. I Changed it on my 9-5.The work sucked, but i was worth it!
But the biggest thing with the 9-5 is the rear. The rear suspension is very undermined for what the car is made for so when you get the chance raise the rear of the car and check the tires. Do the typical wheel bearing move and you most likely will feel not the wheel bearing but the bear-arm bushing, the tire will move. On my Cartestingstation 4 out of 10 cars have so harsh remark on the car that they on get to drive to the nearest available workshop.
The 9-3 have a similar problem. The spindle joints in the rear will have some play which it shouldn't. But to feel that move in the rear on the 9-3 you have to raise the car beneath the shocks. If you raise the car with the bear arms you most likely wont feel the play at all....
Thank you for sharing, I appreciate the tips!
My sons 2004 SAAB 95 quit last Tuesday as he pulled into his highschool&the fuel pump was coming working&we ordered a new one&it still want crank&we checked all the fuses replaced the relay&im thinking we may have gotten a bad new fuel pump but I was wondering if you could please give me any advice
Great tips. Replacing the fuel pump is right up there with the radiator.
For sure!
Radiator goes booooooom?
check out my channel. I do a ton of in depth saab work. and VOLVO too
@@KylePancis niice. Will do!!
Good list. I'd move window rollers to the number 2 slot. Other not so common, but likely with age: Starter. Alternator. Neutral safety switch end linkage. Vacuum lines splitting and rotting out. Gas struts for the hood and hatch. Dirt/Corrosion in the seat memory buttons (results in seat reclining to the full back position).
yes, good point; normal wear items over time should be considered too!
To avoid the black sludge make sure you install a so called “mod 6” on the engine. This is what prevents the black sludge on the later models and can be retrofitted on older models. It is very simple and not expensive.
thanks for sharing
Could you explain a little more what a "mod 6"is and where to get it and how to install it? Please?
@MarsWolf it's called pcv update kit #6 don't listen to that bone head
@MarsWolf it's a updated oil trap and breather tubes
As a SAAB enthusiast and owner of several SAAB i think you made a great video. There is two MINOR faults in the video, 1 First SAAB 9-5 was build in -98, not in -99. 2. Explaining the coolant valve you showed the boost pressure control valve.
All the problem is easy to fix, except changing the fuel pump , that can be a pain in the as if your not careful.
Overall the T7 engine is not a great engine, When Saab made the engine they wanted to lower the cost and therefor made the block walls thinner and the piston lighter and at the same time weaker.
My bad on those! Thanks for the corrections
Change Wössner pistons, i did :)
Is there an access port hidden somewhere to replace the fuel pump or does the tank have to be pulled? Mine is a 2001 9-5.
@@lilythomson881 Under backseat lower part, in the middle area. th-cam.com/video/6zMjcBlE8pA/w-d-xo.html
Former SAAB mechanic here, number one problem is oil leaks. Oil leaks everywhere. Rusty brake tubes too. Forgot to mention those?
Good additions, Lukas; thanks for sharing!
What about the AC compressor clutch failing ? Didnt mention that :D. I have 5/8 problems that he listed in this video
rather important thing about those cassettes, make sure that the one your putting back in, hasn't been laying on it's side or upside down. if so, stand it up and let it sit upright for a while or leave it like so over night to be extra careful. theres a type of oil in that helps to cool the coil packs and sensors. just installing them half hazardly like mostly any ignition system is rather detrimental to their life span which may explain why they're famous for failing.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing!
Casettes with version number TK3.7 does not need to be sit upright before putting in :)
I've done all of these except fuel pump and diverter. I just did Coolent Bypass valve at 174k and am and my passenger side window roller went out at the same time. So yeah, nailed it.
Lol, nice!
The best Saab ever made. Easy fixes, greatest engine
It's definitely up there, but not the best in my books!
Hi I just bought a Saab and having issues
It took me 10 minutes to change my civics radiator, over an hour and a half on my 9-5
B2x4 is better, imho. Much stronger pistons.
“easy fixes” lol
4:57 I can see that list, hehe ;) On the serious note however, you forgot about the rear control arm bushings. Those go bad pretty fast, causing negative camber and a horrible clunking noise. Changing them is not a big problem unless you live in the rust belt.
Also, it's a good idea to keep a spare fuel pump assembly in your trunk (ask me how I know).
Had a couple notes! Don't hate lol!
How do you know??
Thanks for the heads up on those potential problems. I am planning on my next car being a 9-5 estate.(station wagon). So this is useful.
Awesome! Have fun with it when you get it!
Auto Autopsy I certainly will. Besides, it gives me reason to re-join the UK Saab owners club. I took the 9-3 cabrio to their 40th anniversary show. Was awesome seeing an airfield full of Saabs of all types.
Planning on getting my first Saab 9-5 Aero hot saloon .... can't wait😱😱😱
I have a '99 9-5 4 cyl since off lease in 2002 with 30,000 miles. I have not had any of the problems you mention and now summer 2018 with 143,000 it is holding up very well (far superior to the 9000). My worst problem is with an electrical wiring short which caused engine shut down, but once corrected has been fine. Wonderful comfort and handling. There are fewer and fewer of them which eventually may make them more valuable , but in the end they finally produced some great vehicles.
Nice! Glad you've had such an awesome ownership experience so far
I have an 08 Dame and just had the maptun suspension kit installed along with the maptun strut brace. Having the front pads and rotors done tomorrow. Have akebono euros going on and a set of viggen slotted rotors. I'm trying to get the handling and stopping done before I increase the power. Love these cars.
nice!
Well like any other car it's got some problems... I had to change the air con arm with alu one and now works perfect... No sludge problem... Nothing from above mentioned. A friend bought Porsche Boxter, and had troubles with windows as mantioned in the video and furthermore catastrofic failure of IMS bearing resulting engine failure! Can you imagine big name such as Porsche having such a poor design?!!! Costing a lot more than Saab to buy and maintain. After all at the end of the day Saab can be a lot more reliable than many so called "premium" brands if you care a bit 😉 Maintain and enjoy your Saab's people 👍
I'm glad the channel is here, but also glad of the comments.
I will think long and prudently before I purchase a Saab. Seems very many problems.
Did you miss the beginning where I said they’re reliable?
Awesome, I am thinking about buying an Aero 2.3 and this video helped me with what parts I need to buy asap. Preventive maintenance.
Yep ;)
The coolant "bypass" valve is there to keep hot coolant from circulating into the heater core when you are using the a/c to cool down the passenger compartment. its only intalled on 1997-2005 9-5's newer 9-5s does not have the valve.
Makes sense, thanks for letting us know
Actually not true, replaced mine recently on my '07 after it went bad.
Maybe it differs on 9-5 sold on the north american market? No 9-5 after 2005 has these coolant bypass valves in Sweden.
Regarding the fuel pump, if you firmly hit the middle of the fuel tank under the car you can get the engine to run for around 10 minutes. It's happened to my twice over the years.
I just bought an 07 9-5 it runs great and it's clean. It's throwing two codes a p1400 and a p1251 I have a lot too learn. But it will be fun to try something different.
Hey nice! Have fun :) haha
If you're handy and have a chunk of aluminum lying around you can fairly easily fabricate your own HVAC arm, bit of cutting, drilling and filing and et voila!
Also worth noting, the rear springs on 2001 aero era cars are too weak (don't know if they fixed it), if you go to replace them you'll discover that other than OEM the only option is 10mm lower heavy duty springs, you should definitely get the heavy duty springs, the lower height will simply mean your ride height will be correct since they're stiffer. Using the OEMs won't help the fundamental problem which is too much camber on the back when loaded or sagging, which in turn scrubs out the inner face of the tires prematurely.
The green window roller problem is such that you can buy whole bags of them on eBay.....
My number one tip, replace ALL the rubber hoses with silicone equivalents, you want your SAAB to survive as it gets older!
thanks for the info!
The throttle body also gets gummed up with carbon and needs to be cleaned every so often. But if it goes bad the throttle body looks to be just above $300 (OEM) or if just the solenoid valve is bad $70, and not the hardest thing to change as it sits right up top. And for the most part you just need to clean the built up carbon to get it working right from what i ran into myself and what i see online. Mine has 175K+ miles on it (35K miles from myself).
And the vacuum system has a LOT of vacuum leak potentials lol. When i had mine i had to replace almost all seals and lines other than the PCV system ones. Then there's the HVAC control that has a screen with a crap-tastic connection to the board. And my center brake light decided to just fall off one day, upon inspection it was just dry-rotted plastic and used some steel wire to get it back up about 2 years ago. BUT! one huge problem is the trunk's wire harness, the nipple coming off the trunk has a innecessaraly hard bend with a hard angle inside of it to help break/cut the cables. That will happen every few years if you use the trunk a lot and dont correct for the hard bend. I cut a nice smooth curve into it so it wouldn't dig into the wires anymore.
In total I haven't spent that much on it. Out of the normal stuff, about $150 with almost 3 years of ownership. Much MUCH less than when i had a turbo Supra. And very well into the normal low end for a luxury brand, although it's no Lexus or Acura.. it's not that much more IMO from buying one that needed work and drove for 35K+ miles over 3 years. Although it might have problems that might get misdiagnosed at some shops and could cost you.
I had heard; thanks for sharing! Glad you've had good luck
Brilliant. Yes these are indeed the 9 things to look out for 👍👍
Thanks for the video - all the problems you named on the B235R are correct! In germany the small brakes on the 9-5 Aero are a problem, especially if you often go over 120mph. Plus you have to check the vacuum hoses and the nonreturn valve if the engine doesn´t run properly, a tiny air leakage can cause some trouble.
Rip :( thanks for sharing!
Dad had a Saab back in the 80's, got a lemon and drove him crazy. My uncle has, and still does an 05 9-5 with 200k+ miles. Taught me how to drive stick in it. I've always wanted this car but dad said no Saabs allowed.
Nice! Maybe your dad should change his thinking ;)
Great Job good explanation of the issues i just purchased a 2005 arc wagon and trans fluid leak misfire and driver window off track!
Good luck getting it fixed!
Nice job my 2002 Linear with 221K has experienced all those problems. I've also had to rebuild the 5 speed auto, and get a new cassette for the turbo. Currently I need motor mounts again. Nevertheless the car is a joy to drive. Other future projects might involve the oil seepage and worn bushes. I did recently need to replace sway bar links and bushes
Nice! Sounds like some general wear and tear for the most part. glad you like it
I just took my car (2004 9-5 2.3t wagon) out into the woods today, to a guy who I can only describe as a car guru, and his favourite brand, and also the one he has worked on the most, is Saab, so I trust everything he says. He even quickly found and fixed 2 vacum leaks for me. Well I fixed one, but he gave me the materials and then he fixed the other one for free. He also listed up many of the common problems for me, and even showed me a Ignition casette that had gone bad. More specifically it had cracked on the plastic part, and allowed water to seep in somehow, and that is apparently what does the killing of theese casettes.
Awesome!
For increasing lifetime of the DI-cassette it is recommended to change spark plugs regurarly. I change them every 6000 miles when I do the oil change. And the right plug for b2x5 engines is NGK BCPR7ES-11. Do not use any other brand of spark plugs or it will kill your cassette.
Also I would add balance shaft chain and timing chain issues. They tend to stretch over time and start to rattle. If not repaired, balance chain will grind hole to the block, exposing the oil channel, eventually destroying the engine.
Very good tip! Thanks Matti
True, true
So around 200k expect to change the timing chain and balance shaft chain? Are they separate or in one
My dad has a 9-5 station white almost 500.000 mills on it
WOW!
sick. Mine has 125k I want it to get to at least 200 with minimal problems
Hi the first coolant bypass valve you showed was part of the boost control lol
My bad :)
the only engine related issue I've had with my 9-5 aero was missfiring due to old/badly spaced sparkplugs
I have a 2005 Saab 9-5 that the key gets stuck in the ignition sometimes. I've read this is kind of common. Also, when the key is not in the ignition and the driver's door is open, there's dinging.
Had that happen on my 2000. I removed all the wafers from the tumbler slug. Problem fixed.
Good vid 👌🏼 While swapping out the D.I.C. for a Genuine SAAB one (as the aftermarket cheapees don’t last very long) stick a set of fresh NGK spark plugs in there as well 👍🏼
Great tip!
Hey dude, I liked your video 👍🏼
Very professionally explained.
I own a 95 1.9tid linear. I'm happy with it. Just a few things I would love to hear advice is with a steering wheel alignment and vibration. My mechanic says it could be many things. We have noticed that the tracking alignment doesn't really help make the steering wheel straigh and centered. And yet the vibrations persist depending on the position of the wheels whether they're straight or in an angle.
Also a minor issue is the key washers, one of them is blocked, and solutions on these two problems please?
I also noticed the noises from the engine mounts, and yes it sounds like a crushed rubber when turning in corners.
Yeah you could need new motor mounts, especially as the car ages. Could be number of things for the alignment. tie rods, end links, etc. It would probably be best to take it to a mechanic to diagnose exactly what it needs
My son has one and it has a multiple misfire . We have changed spark plugs , coils , and spark modual and the light keeps coming back . I am wondering if this could be solved by replacing Crank sensor ? What do you think?
I would advise joining some saab Facebook groups or searching forums: th-cam.com/video/_EeO3yGRD3Q/w-d-xo.html
'99 Saab 95 owner. One of the main ones you left out is the abs module. You may have to have it rebuilt, not replaced.
Thanks for sharing, nice ride!
The coolant bypass valve cuts off heat into the cabin heater core when you select full AC at coldest temp to get max cooling. They also fail in the 9-5 SE with V6 engine.
thanks for sharing
Throttle bodies go bad on the 99-03 years fairly often. I believe it was those years. I always keep a spare one and DIC in the back of my wagon. Along with all fluids. Ignitions can be suspect on the 9-5’s that have broken front cupholders because more than likely it broke when there was a McDonalds XL soda in it and it dumped all over the center console. All the light assemblies on the rear seem to leak moisture into them. Air leaks on the intake are common along with a BPC solenoid and MAF sensors
Hmm I’ve never seen a 9-5 with the tail lights having moisture in them but thanks for sharing the others 👍🏼
I own a '99 9 5, bought it in early 2021, had less than 49,000 miles on it, it's now at just under 67,000. Within the past week have experienced periodic slow acceleration both from a dead stop and while actually driving. RPMs run up but acceleration does not match. There are NO warning lights. Had codes read at an AutoZone and nothing came back. Any ideas?
might need to have it looked at with a tech2
@@AutoAutopsy Yeah, the transmission's shot. Having it replaced. There was a small leak of transmission fluid but my mechanic wasn't too concerned, he just said to keep an eye on it. For a little more than a week the fluid was right at MAX on the dip stick, then something caused it to drain empty, the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and CHECK GEAR BOX lights came on and . . .
Up to that point NO lights came on and thus no code was thrown, so . . .
Now I'm driving a rental, waiting for the work to be done.
Aghhhh!
I had the window roller go. Currently I'm not getting heat in the cabin. I replaced the thermostat and flushed the coolant. It was sluggy. Still no heat! Could it be the coolant bypass valve?
Good video. I can tell that I have an Aero 9-5 from 2003 that I have owned for 10 years now and I have never had any faults on it. I have done all the service myself. I've never had the eight problems you tell us about.
What is important to look at when buying such a fantastic car such as SAAB Aero is how many owners have had it and how is it managed.
If the truth comes out, they are great fun driving from chewing gum tough guys in BMW and Mercedes with an old SAAB. The last 8 years my car has been tuned with 3´ exhaust system and nordic tuning software (about 280 hp).
Nowadays I have the software myself and try different settings. A SAAB Aero Is an Investment. Just wait....The prices Is goung up now. Here In sweden today you have to pay at least $3000 for a good Aero from 2003. Before a couple a years ago you coul´d almost get It fro free. I´ll think If you are carful and can ceep your SAAB in good condition this car can be an Investment. I´ll thing aprox $25000 year 2035.
Yep, maintenance is very important! Nice car
Thanx a whole lot for the inquiry list!!! :-)
:)
Great video, thanks. Have a question for you. My 2005 9-5 was running great, the intermediate flex pipe decided it was time to break from the rest of the system. A few days later, the car died in driveway while at idle. Would restart as long as I was on the accelerator a bit, but would die when taking foot of the gas. Thought the Idle Air Sensor may be the problem, but Saab dealer says the 2005 9-5 doesn't have one. I live 110 miles from the dealer, and not comfortable with their abilities, and not sure if my local mechanic has much knowledge about Saabs, probably not. Any ideas. ?? Thanks, Larry, AKA Grumpydoc.
The shift linkages are a headache in the early gen 9-5s for the standard trans, because of the plastic housings that connect to the ball joints. They can break overtime and just make for an overall sloppy shift. Later they reinforced the design with more robust metal housings which is how they should have been engineered in the first place.
thanks for sharing, Drew!
Subframe bushes also! Most will have failed by now. Replace with poly bushes.
Thanks for sharing!
you need to add ground junction failure affecting the TWICE module not reading key chip i have owned 4 9-5's and everyone had the same issue
thanks for sharing, robert!
I might have the same issue, how do u repair?
Turbo often fails after 200.000km if the car have been driven short trips all its life so the engine temp doesnt go up that far making sludge a huge problem on the older 9-5 (98 to 03) and of course oil changes being skipped and going way over due, that is what i have experienced but then i tuned both of mine and after a year or so the original turbo cant take it any more and the white wall appears after the car, not hard at all to replace the small GT17 to a TD04HL-15T, if all exhaust bolt comes out without breaking it can be done in 1.5 hours
So excited for the new car reveal I have feeling it’s a Ng9-5 or Turbo X
I think it might be a 9-3 Viggen 3 door
Car was just picked up from MA! I called the driver and he’s estimating it I’ll have it within a week
Very exciting! Can't wait!
Which car transport did you use ... looking into transporting a car from WA
This also applies the B205E powered 9-5's as well, but I guess you never got that engine in the US. And of course the B235E and L engines. Not just the R.
Yes, they are very similar
Piston rings are common on tuned 9-5s Over 1, 5 bar they get stuck and then you have to use t5 pistons milled 1,1 mm to acomedate T7 headgasket. I have done this and much more on my - 00 aero
thanks for sharing
Yep, had all of these except the crank position sensor, only one you missed is the pixels on the trip computer drop out due to the solder cracking.
:(
Actually it's not that bad, you fix some easy things and you have your car sorted!
Would also recommend replacing all the hoses with silicon hoses, especially the heater and vacuum lines. True for any car once they get to 15+ years.
I have a year 2000 9-5 with 170k miles on it. I’ve replaced everything thing on this video atleast once. Only things I can add are the CAT getting abused more from the re-use of burning evaporated oil, and pretty much every single motor mount, bushing, subframe bushings, tie rod.(pretty much everything underneath the car that is polyurethane or rubber) just replace it. 9-5’s will never ride correctly without all bushings replaced. I’ve spent hundreds over the years getting road force balances trying to solve shake issues that were not even from wheels.
wow, thanks for the input on your ownership. glad you got around to solving that issue tho
One thing that stopped me from buying used SAAB was stories of DIC not just misfiring but failing completely while people drive on the highway and causing a very dangerous situation since DIC's failure would also mean no brake assist and no power steering. Now I wonder if people were over dramatizing their experiences.
I wouldn't let that stop you from buying one. I've never heard of anything that severe happening because of a malfunctioning DIC
I really love your videos, so I just bought a 2595 aero and I’m having a few issues. The first issue is an oil leak the mechanic said a crank seal something LOL… I also have a really bad negative camber in the rear, is that shams? And is transmission cooler lines a common problem that leak also?
I'd post about some of these on some Facebook groups; saab owners USA, saabs of america, etc!
Another common problem with SAAB 9-5 is that the regulator motors for hot/cold temperatures inside the coupé tend to break leaving eighter the passanger or driver side blowing max cold or hot. It broke on my car on the drivers side and blew burning hot air on me constantly. You fix it ''simply'' by replacing the regulator motor but on the drivers side it's tight to say the least...
thanks for sharing
i got a SAAB 9-5 2,3t 2000 and they made a rebuild kit for the sludge problems. The only problems i realy got on this 275000 km was the fuelpump while running on E85 (Etanol) because the E(5 is very dry and you got to have a ceramic pump for this. Then i have-a-trim kit from Maptun stage4 and some more things and nearly 330 horepower and it still runns very good. So keep your Saab and never sell it :)
My 2003 9-5 Aero with 100,000 Miles List: Alternator, SID (ribbon replacement), Fuel Pump, Throttle Body, Thermostat and Engine Coolant Sensor, Blend Door Actuator, Direct Injection Cassette. Still having random P1530 codes, sending the throttle body into limp-home mode.
Plugs...?
Thanks. Toomorow i go to see a 9-5 and this will definitely come in handy! Thanks ;)
Good video. I've been looking to get a 9-5 between with the 2006-2009 body style. Black on Black would be ideal. I've been researching this model for some years and think of it as an ideal car for my style, travel needs and to an extent personality. Looking to buying a solid one within the next year or so that's been well-maintained w/ service records. Finding parts are somewhat of a concern, however - I like these so much that I'd take the time to learn how to do the fixes myself. Good info. My other issue would be what I understand to be a head gasket leakage issue. Not knowing if a 9-5 had that issue and for how long would raise some eyebrows as I'm sure that could lead to other engine replacement issues if left untreated. Thank for the vid man.
good luck with your search!
What seems to be a common 9-5 problem is EVAP issues. Mainly the one way check valves failing and/or related hoses leaking and at times the solenoid fault . CEL code P0441 The 9-5 ALSO the Engine codes for the YS3E are: Linear B235E, ARC B235L , Aero B235R .
thanks for sharing! the arc had the B235R as well
direct ignition cassette - check
power window rollers - 4x check
fuel pump - check
crank shaft position sensor - check
Added - oil trap valve hose
Added - almost all vacuum hoses to turbo
Added - digital control panel display - not good in the hot weather
Added plus learn to do the work, not that hard and you can't break it anymore than it is broke and if it is as old as mine (2004 w/ 115k) either fix it yourself or junk it. I choose to do the work myself 3 years ago, seems like every year I have a new project. If it wasn't such a fun car to drive I would have let it go.
Keep the Saab's alive Larry!
I have a 9 5 wagon, turbo, has been wonderful. One thing my mechanic can't figure out is the air bag light comes on 2-3x per driving trip. He thinks it won't deploy if needed. Where can I get this fixed?
a saab shop or someone with a tech2
@@AutoAutopsy My Saab mechanic was not able to identify the problem, thank you💗
I know this is kind of an older video but I just purchased a used 2005 9-5 arc and it seems that the turbo is not boosting and the engine just has no power, making it a very slow car. Does anyone have experience with this or know where the issue lies? Thanks for taking the time to read this!
have someone with a tech2 look at it to help diagnosis! could be a number of things
Thank you for doing this video. I would like to purchase a low mileage (28,000 miles) 9-5 Aero and I found it very helpful. I have a very important question that will determine whether or not I will buy it: Are these parts still available in 2003? Many thanks in advance.
yes - you can still get parts! I have another video on parts source, here, if interested: th-cam.com/video/ARVbmaQ7Dn8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! I just bought a 2001 9-5 Aero with 28,900 miles on it in absolutely mint condition with no rust. A wonderful car!! It's comforting to know I can get parts- I couldn't find a replacement windshield for my '97 9000, so I was a little concerned.
There are two faults.
1.) the shark fin antenna is toast. Can it be replaced from the roof, or will I need to remove the headliner? How do you do it? Can my mechanic do it or should I seek out a body shop? It looks like it will leak in the rain.
2.) The plastic that protects the wheel well edges has detached itself from the metal. The clips won't hold it against the rim- the gap will trap crud and eventually cause rust. Are replacement plastic liners available? Should I bring it to a body shop? I was considering using a heat gun to soften it, but the car is so sweet, and I would hate to butcher it.
I have no regrets at all about buying this incredible car. I wish you lived nearby! Thanks for the good advice- I truly appreciate it and have subscribed to your channel. I'll definitely study your parts video.
@@AutoAutopsy
Good list. Have had three 9-5s and had everyone of these issues at least once.
Uh oh :( at least I was accurate, haha!
6 of the 8 (so far) for me.
Got a first gen 9-5 aero 2.3t and bought it for a year ago but can’t really call it reliable since I’ve had to swap turbo, all vacuum lines, springs, coolant hose, catalytic converter etc
those vacuum lines, hoses, etc just go bad with age unfortunately :(
Ha and the window rollers classic
I HATE those things. My driver side one STILL won't work. But that's the least of the worries on my car right now. Oil Cooler's out... Ugh.
Ok...can you guys help me out.
I am almost certainly going to sign a deal in the next day or 2 to buy an 08 9-5 aero. When I told my neighbour, he made faces at me like I was nuts buying a Saab because parts would be hard to find and repairs expensive. I am handy enough to change oil or fill fluids and maybe figure a few things out, but im not not a car nut or mechanic. So...am I nuts for buying a 12 year old Saab?
There is a bit of rust and a small area of "poor fix" at the front fender , too small for an accident. The engine seems great. The interior looks brand new. Any help would be appreciated
No, not nuts, nothing wrong with that!
Hello Auto Autopsy! have a 2001 9-5 wagon (2.3L Turbo). My tranny just died!!! It was making a loud grinding noise in reverse and then after about a month, the noises were transferring into the forward gears. Then last Saturday, I slowed to park and the power just cut off. I was able start and drive around the block and then the power cut off again. Is it worth the money to have it replaced? I can take it to my mechanic to have it diagnosed before a buy a cheap car on Craigslist. Someone told me I have to replace the tranny (transaxle) inexpensively, but the labor cost would be HUGE! Do you please have any recommendations? Thank you and have a nice COOL day!
Hey! I'd join a local saab group to you (on Facebook), because there's most likely someone that could find whatever parts you'll need nearby!
Another problem is the Neutral Safety Switch can go bad due to fouling; being the contacts get sticky or dirty but you can either remove it and take it apart to clean the contacts and do light dust of anti-seize compound but then to reassemble it but may have to use an epoxy medium to ensure the housing components are secured and no breaches for future fouling... Or just buy a new one to replace it?
I have a 2001 9-5 Aero 2.3L [ 4th Saab car since 1989 ] I bought the Aero back in 2004 as 2nd owner; having turbo issues recently for the 1st time; turbo whining at low acceleration speeds as the noise dissipates past 14/15 mph and returns at 10 mph to idle plus having low boost issues/ irregularity while driving... at engine start, high RPMs to about 1400+ then drops to normal idle RPMs takes about 30 seconds or so to normal... No Check Engine Light at all?... plus a leaky water pump either need a replacement or just a bad O-ring or gasket or both?
I also have an oil leak from one or both oil cooler hoses? Since the surrounding passenger side has the oil leak on the lower part of the engine area and some that drip onto the ground after been driving... I did experience oil sludge like back in 2007 [ lucky I had extended GM warranty as the cost was over $6k ] and had to have a rebuilt lower transmission block there was a fix to replace the oil screen to the oil pan but I could not find in time being the afterthought after the work was done to replace with an older OEM screen from a 900 model that has much larger openings than the 1st generation had been too fine of an oil screen if you ask me? Oil coking sludge would cause a blockage to starve the engine of oil not to cycle through... The first owner was using standard oil for the most part which was a bad mistake as the recommendation was to use full synthetic oil only?!?
I am on a budget nowadays and to find me an OE replacement turbo but you can't find one for a TD04HL-18T? The best aftermarket being a direct-fit or exact-fit would be a 15T compressor or maybe go up to a 19T upgrade if I can afford one? As labor isn't cheap and to pay a mechanic ASE level hourly that is timed for the type of service so far is either nearly 1000 or higher?
I did find someone that is an ASE certified mechanic that worked on Saabs in California dealership for over 4 years gave me a quote of $530 bucks at his shop as I would buy the parts would be best to save money! It still has lower mileage of only 115k+ not bad for nearly 19 years old as it was built in August 2001.
interesting, thanks for sharing this all :)
Nice video. I've had an issue with my 2002 9-5 lately. If I drive it for a while, it doesnt want to accelerate. At stop lights it takes a long time for it to get up to speed. But after I turn the car off for an hour or so it's perfectly fine. It's been going on for a few weeks and its happened to me 3 times. Any ideas?
Sounds like it's going into something called "limp home mode," which means the computer thinks there's something seriously wrong with the car. Now, that doesn't mean something is actually wrong with the car, so I'd advise by starting with disconnecting the battery. If that persists, check if there's a check engine light and have that read
My guess is the car is in limp home mode. Try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery!
Cranksaft position sensor is dying.
I got a question for you, I am stuck I own a 2008 9-5 2.3t it went over a curb and has not started since.The inertia switch needs to be reset, however I can't seem to find it. Do you have any idea?
Hey i have a question: does it matter if its a 95 wagon or a sedan? and should I expect the same problems outlined in the video? Any help would be very appreciated!
Sedan/wagon won’t make a difference mechanically :)
@@AutoAutopsy perfecto thanks a million!
Having an issues with my 2005 9 5 arc, just sputters when idling, i changed the plugs, probably going to try the dic next, and advice other than dic
Check vacuum lines; one might've popped off, especially around throttle body
Excellent video. Confirmed my problem mis firings Thanks Des
:)
It is very important to use proper NGK spark plugs specified in owners manual. Wrong plugs can ruin the coil pack fast.
v6ileib I just put those iredium plugs in my 06 9-5. Was that a bad move?
I have a 06 9-5 that will start when it's cold and continue to idle but as soon as I give it some gas, it dies. Why? Also is the fuel filter inside the gas tank? Cause I can't find it.
Clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump maybe. You need to go to specialist.
Iridium should be fine if they are the proper ones. NGK BCPR6 if I remember correctly. Check NGK website for right ones.
Good points!
I have a 2001 saab 9-3 turbo.
It starts great and idles fine. I can Rev it and no problems. But as soon as I put on drive it stalls out and shut off.
I read forum it say casset plugs and check the sparks house for oil.
Any other advice, I replace the pcv check valve which was broken.
I will check these items.
could be those too; im not an expert on the older 9-3's. I would think it could also be the CPS. it might be best to post on some facebook groups for help
I think TWICE module issues and ABS module issues are quite common too.
Thanks for sharing
Quite. Saab used the Bosch 5.3 series ABS control units known for breaking mass cables.
Diagnosis is straightforward: check brake lights plus check engine light plus occasional speedo and mileage counter failure plus fault code P1925.
These parts can be refurbished by specialized shops. You can remove and re-install them yourself (there is a rather good vid on yt by ericthecarguy).
As a fairIy inexperienced DIYer, I found it rather difficult though because some parts don't come off as easily as described and some of the screws are half covered by the fuse box above the unit.
I also had to replace the ignition coils I'm my saab 9-5 2001. Yesterday took it to a Saab mechanic with the oil pressure light on and he warned of sludge and dropping the oil pan for cleaning or some kind of pressure sludge cleaning. Replaced the oil pressure switch and problem seems to be gone for now.
Awesome!
Russ, a one Time saab body man told me he saw mechanic using a big curved ice pick type tool to stab holes in the pick up screen to get oil pressure back on a car. Just something I heard, good luck.
yes,more live updates,please.i bet you cant wait,until your car arrives.i know that feeling,lol.
It's nerve-wracking! Updates will be posted live on my instagram
yes,i know its nerve wracking,waiting for a car,to be delivered.ive been in that situation,many times before,so i know exactly how you feel,lol.
I have a 2003 areo 2-9 wagon, my friend has a earlier 2-9, both car crank slow, they both start ok they just crank slow, im new to this car he is not he said it always starts that way Thanks Patrick
I don’t know what a 2-9 is
I'm looking at 2 Saabs on craigslist. Both are 9-5s. a 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero sedan 5 Speed Stick and a 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero Sedan. I don't have the money on me to buy one now but as soon as I sell this slow Mercedes Diesel, I'll get my hands on another Saab. I miss having one!
That's what I like to hear!
Thank you so much for this valued information and thank God your videos rock the house thank you for everything
Thanks Damien!
I'm looking at 2002 9-5 manual with 260,000 miles for 1500$. They guy said he did a lot of work on replacing parts. But he did warn me these are really expensive to fix. How expensive are these compared let's say to volvo or BMW?
If you don't do work on the car yourself, it's expensive. Parts themselves are no more expensive than other Euro brands!
Thanks for the updates on the cars possible issues.
:)
Yes, both DIC and fuel pump went out on mine. Having that extra DIC is ALways A GOOD IDEA.
for sure!
I got a 2001 9-5 2.3 170hp, and I strongly think that I got issues with the DIC. When I throttle the engine does not go up more than 2000/2500 t... In other words the car does not have power and does not go higher in regime. Would that be the issue? Thanks buddy!
Any codes? Could very well be DIC.
I'm having a problem with accelerating, when i accelerate it doesn't have that push that it did, it just accelerates too plane an smooth, i thought the problem could be with the turbo but apparently it isn't, any ideas? I have a 2000 saab 9-5 2.3t, thank you already, good vid :)
Change these: 1. Spark plugs (NGK BCPR7ES-11), 2. Fuel filter (BOSCH No: 0 450 905 200), 3. Air filter (BOSCH No: 1 457 433 590). 4. Fuel Pressure Regulator (BOSCH No: 0280160560). Do a test drive :)
@@FinDJ120964 I believe the 6's are the recommended plug
@@geecrawdad It is 7's :)
@@FinDJ120964 Sorry, no, not if it's the 2.3t as in lpt or low pressure turbo. NGK BCPR6ES-11 is the recommended plug. This is from the manual. Where is your information from?
@@geecrawdad I read this information from WIS and EPC, i have latest version of both. (WIS = Workshop Information System, EPC = Electronic Parts Catalogue)
Hey there yeah moms old past 1982 VOLVO GL HAD OIL SLUGGED UP PROBLEMS LOL. It was 6 years old before she traded it.
:'(