This is exactly how I do my little british sports car track car and its very simple people get a little caught up in the numbers but as long as the poles or sticks either end are the same length and are marked up and grooved exactly the same its just creating a squared rectangle around the car to set it up you can measure from any point on the wheel as long as your left to right numbers match front and rear you are squared up. Then just a case of measuring the front and rear of each wheel to the opposite side. As my car is rear wheel drive i like a degree toe out on the front and a degree toe in on the rear so under load/ acceleration it squres it up some what. I have a set of toe plates that I take to the track to check nothing has moved. Thats my thoughts anyway.
I aligned my 90s Audi using fishing wire and four jack stands today... this was after replacing my steering rack and I now track nice and straight. Found this video and it confirms I did it correctly. Cheers!
Was @ the Brickyard Museum I believe at the 90th anniversary back in '99 and had a casual conversation with this old guy about racing and alignments. Almost EVERYTHING you shared here was dead-nuts on w/what he said because he was the one and ONLY one that did ALL the alignments on ALL their cars. Found out later he was the chief master mechanic for a BIG name driver. Wish I would have took a pic but I'll never forget that half hour talk. Biggest thing he shared - be CONSISTANT with what you do and it'll payoff BIGTIME. It's those little fine-tune details that are the difference between being at the back of the pack and standing at the winners circle. GREAT JOB explaining. There's a HUGE gap on all the stuff online and how to do it WRONG and a lot of misinformation. THIS ONE IS RIGHT ON!!! Great job! Savannah had ALL the answers - she's a winner. NEVER stop learning. SUBSCRIBED!!!
oops forgot one detail - the guy I talked about didn't use garbage bags. He used under each tire two old linoleum kitchen tiles (the old stiff type). He said they slid easily on concrete so you can make the corrections easily - AND THEY DO! Been doing that ever since!!
Cheers for this, got the car tracked at home. New anti roll bar bushes, inner / outer tie rods.. so you can just imagine when parts come as different lengths lol you can count your rotations as you remove but nothing ever goes back on the same! Sorted, cheers.
One of the best alignment videos on TH-cam. I'd personally glaze the inner part of the plastic bags with lithium grease or even motor oil, to better help the tires/un-sprung suspension settle.
Excellent video, and very well done! One of the few videos on TH-cam that explains this adjustment method correctly. It's an extremely tedious process as you describe, but the results can be dead nuts if done correctly. Thanks for sharing!
Here are two tricks: 1. lay the two rods next to each other and mark the line spacing on both approx. 200mm wider than the axes. This guarantees that the two cords are always parallel to each other. Alignment with the vehicle is now easier as only the rod needs to be centered. 2. loop the cord around the poles. Now the cord is at the top and runs back under the rod. This results in two cords lying one below the other. If you now measure from above, simply align your view so that only the upper cord is visible. Reading errors are now ruled out.
If your doing this for a race csr that you check once s month or so Just make ot so you can mount the alignment bars to the car it's self Then cut 2 grooves on both alignment bars to hold the string 2 nuts welded to each bumper and and matching brackets on the alignment bar should work
I see that it's tedious doing the measurements, but thank you for keeping it in the video to stress how the procedure is actually going to go. It makes it less obvious if you edit all that out. Thanks again for the how to. Good luck with your racing season!
8:50 I came to the comments to say the same thing. You beat me. My wife is constantly yelling at me for speeding... I just tell her "your experiencing parallax error sweetie..."
I've used this method and it works, get super fine on your measurements like they say, take your time, keep that steering wheel straight and bam, dialed it. Bought a camber gauge and dialed in a -5 degree camber and bob's your uncle. This is in my few saved videos.
Yep. The ends of the string, where they tie or hang on the bars have to be the same distance apart. That way they are always parallel as long as you don't slide the strings on the pole. I've made that mistake twice now.
While working with my dad (78yrs young) he taught me to measure in feet and inches. I got to the point where adding subtracting and multiplying fractions in my head became second nature. While working in a fab shop, it was easier to measure in straight up inches+ one little fraction, no matter the distance because tolerances were tighter with steel than stretchy carpet. On small measurements, (machine work, etc., I prefer mm.) Nothing better for small measurements than metrics, although I adapt easily depending on situation. Conversions in my head are getting easier.....
Apex Garage they make nice trailers too. Any time you don’t need to rent a room is an investment. Start slapping a lot more content on this channel, it’ll pay for it. Like your work. If possible try to add some throttle steering and brake position on screen while at the track. If possible sometimes other things are plugged in and won’t allow for that.
RIP paint work 19:18 Also if the fronts are 148.5 and the rear are 140. How to you know you have the perfect square when you have not measured the distance front left to right of each piece of string across the poles. From a birds eye view ye the fronts might be the same and the backs be the same but it could look like this from above \ /
SirKingOfTheSwing we mention it in the beginning but should have talked about it more, and since have edited the description to explain more on this. But basically we have parallel notches built into our metal poles that creates our parallel line down the car. From there get the gap equal on the front wheel independent of the rear since track widths are different front and rear on many cars.
Now I get it a little more since I read the description. I think you still might have a problem with some cars. Let's say that the rears are perminant, with a full live axle rear-end. Now let's say that the axle is dead center and perfect to the car. Now let's say that the whole front subframe or the whole front end is not center with the car. Let's say that the front is slide over to the drivers side 1" because we built the car wrong. Basically the cars rear axle is dog tracking when compared to the front axle. (let's just say that the rear and front axle or wheels are driving perfectly straight with no scrub, only thing is that it's just dog tracking perfectly) Your strings are parallel along the car, the center of each hub measures to the string is even across all hubs right to left like you are showing. Now if you were to measure the toe for the rear axle (un-movable), it would appear that it's off compared to the string. Using notches on the poles like you are doing is great, but I think that the perfect box (string square) should be placed along the car with the toe measurement off of the rear axle rims. Basically the stings are parallel with the rear rims tracking. Since the rear axle can't move, everything needs to be referenced off of the rear rims. Now that the strings are perfect with the rear wheels, you can measure toe for the fronts off of the string. That measurement will be off since the car is perfectly dog tracking 1" off set. Which is ok, because measuring front rims toe is off of the perfect parallel strings. Only thing that would look funny is that the front inner hubs are measuring 1" off set, but the wheels are all driving dead straight. Now just adjust toe in or out to how you want the front to be. I think this is called "thrust" alignment, as apossed to 4 wheel alignment. The way you are doing it is assuming that both axles are not dog tracking at all (just has different track width)
If the rear of the car is wider than the front and you’ve measured 148.5 on the rear and 140 on the front the string isn’t running parallel front to back so you’re making adjustments based on a string that is already out of alignment because it’s tapering in from rear to front giving the impression that the wheels are toed out when really they could be perfect
You have the number backward, it was 148.5mm on the front and 140mm on the rear, because the rear on these cars is wider. Also this is why we compare left to right when balancing the strings, not front to rear. Which I believe I mention at some point in my rambling haha. Also one thing I should have spoke more on is the fact that my rods have grooves in the ends that allows me to know the strings are on the same spot on both ends, which leaves us to dial in the left-to-right on the front and then the left-to-right on the rear to evenly disperse the spacing of our parallel lines.
Apex Garage ahhh right so the poles have markings spaced out the same in the front and also the rear ? That makes more sense haha, I thought the strings were also being adjusted and could result in false readings
bradley tomlinson yeah we show the grooves in the beginning but I only mention making ziptie channels for those at home. I probably should have elaborated on that a bit more. Thanks for the question!
@@ApexGarage so the strings are actually parallel and measure the same distance to each other front and rear? I did find it a bit confussing and had the same idea as the original poster thinking you set them off the wheel centers, meaning they arnt parallel. But thinking now you didnt touch the string just the pole. Thanks for the video, would be great to see how you guys set camber.
In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. When measuring to the wheel caps to strings, I was getting moving the entire bar, not just one string. But again that was with my strings in parallel spots on each bar. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
What about using a spacer that's a set distance off of the center cap and then have the string touch that spacer. Then repeat for the rear and have the string touch the spacer at the rear again. Wouldnt that be easier than having to measure the string distance from the center cap and keep adjusting everytime? Also can you do one side (front and rear) measurement at a time if you don't use that bar? I'm asking because some one car garages are tight for space so you may not be able to adjust both sides or set up both sides at the same time.
Love that double bag trick. Very smart. The double layer is the trick hey? I wonder if 6 mil poly for rez vapo barrier would be a bit tougher...just bc I have a ton of it left over. Metric for speeds, large distances, or energy / mass stuff....or any kinda engineering calc for sure. But when it comes to fabricating (CNC or welding) I prefer inches. Squaring things with fractions is much easier inside my little brain. Especially when talking tolerances...i dunno why but 1-2 thou or 7 tenths is just easier to say. But use what works for you for sure. No flame. Hahahah. What camera / lens do you use? Savanna holds it hella still, but im curious if your camera gear has some kinda of image stablization in it. Viewers complain on my channel that I can be a bit shakey sometimes. I need an OIS lens or the gimbal if im free handing it. I really need that IBIS in the Pana's tho....so smooth. Great video. Everything made sense and you're right the parallelism of the strings to each other and to the centerline of the axles are key. Imma go align my truck right now cause no lift needed hahahaha.
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 not sure how I missed this. In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Most of the string methods on youtube are simply wrong. The distance of the front wheel pair may be different from the rear pair. To account for that. 1. To have 2 parallel lines make sure the distance of the 2 lines tied to one pole equal to that of the other pole 2. With that established the next step is to have the distance of the line to the wheel reference point equal distance for the front pair. 3. Do the same to the rear pair. Note: the front pair and rear pair may not agree for the reason above 4. Proceed to the rest
In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. When measuring to the wheel caps to strings, I was getting moving the entire bar, not just one string. But again that was with my strings in parallel spots on each bar. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 im impressed you commented on every comment. In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Great informative video. I like your emphasis on accuracy and taking your time, Great info for the beginner and veteran wrenchers to do an alignment properly. Thanks for sharing.
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. When measuring to the wheel caps to strings, I was getting moving the entire bar, not just one string. But again that was with my strings in parallel spots on each bar. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks, I had never done the string method and I want to try it. I was not sure how to set it up and get things square. I had done my alignments by scribbing the tires. I have a set of turn plates so that make adjustments easy.
Im a little confused on the toe-in. Another video seemed to say the front wheels should be toed in 1/16 of an inch at the front of the wheels. Is that correct or no.
CCDProductions make sure you see my notes in the description about making sure you have parallel grooves in your bars, I should have elaborated more on that and some people got confused.
would be nice if went into camber a little bit but i think i get the idea. thanks for the vid and all the time you put into it. i wrote alot down because i want to learn to do this myself
Oscar Goss camber is super easy. It’s literally just take a metal square tube or something that is perfectly flat and extends from wheel lip to wheel lip (not touching the tire) and then put a digital level on that flat place and it will give you a number like 87deg, which means from straight up and down (90deg) you are -3deg of camber.
How can you be sure the tires are alligned with the chassis if the measurements of aligning the strings with the car are based off the tires? Is that a whole other thing that should be checked before even doing any of this procedure?
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 and again: not sure how I missed this. In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
If the same wheel measured in the video had 65mm on the front of the tire and 64.5 in the rear ; would that mean toe out , +.05 ? What about having the wheel stay centered during the adjustment ; if i don't have a steering wheel lock can someone sit inside and hold the wheel while I adjust it?
Jason Widelitz you want the two strings to be parallel. Our bar has grooves in the end that are equally spaced on both ends of the bar. As long as we keep those strings in the same grooves on each side then the know we can adjust them equally to make parallel lines. The entire purpose is to make parallel lines compared to the car so you have something equal to measure from on both sides
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 not sure how I missed this comment of yours too, but in an effort for more people to see my response ill leave it again: In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Because you never measured the distance between the left and right strings at the front and rear, you have no idea if the strings are parallel OR square. So, you cannot make an accurate toe in measurement. You also did not check to see if the rear axle is square on the chassis. If it isn't, no useful toe adjustment can be made.
Also, track width between front Axl and rear Axl are almost always different. Not a good measurement from center cap to center cap of the rear track width is wider by a few mm’s.
The distance between the string and the wheel caps should not be the same in the front and in the rear. You have to check the wheel track width of your car model and take that into consideration.
Is your rear a 1/2 mil toe out? the back of the rim was 65 mil from the string and the front of the rim was 64.5 mil from the string meaning the front of the rim is closer to the string and therefore the front is facing slightly out. You even explain it correctly at 18:30, but then mark down that you're a 1/2 mil toe in.
sorry to burst your national pride bubble but ukma.org.uk/why-metric/myths/metric-internationally/the-moon-landings/ and alot of nasas top scientists were german so used metric also
See that’s not true, if you have a lowered car that the alignment tools won’t clamp on properly you have to go to a garage that has the internal wheel clamps n that’s £75-£100 to start with n then they charge you for adjusting it! Only a few garages round me do the internal clamps, I now do the string method as it’s free n also do friends lowered cars!
I think your methods are flawed. When two front readings from the wheel center are the same, and two rear readings from the wheel center are the same, but they're different from each other, it means the two lines are diverging, not parallel. You need to make sure the front reading and rear reading ON THE SAME SIDE are the same then the string is aligned with the car body.
starr karl in the beginning I mentioned we have bars on front and rear that have machines grooves in them where we hang the strings to make them parallel. I added some post edit notes in the description to be a bit more specific as many have asked the same question. With the strings in a parallel setting based on the grooves we then measure front left to front right and center and then left rear compared to right rear and center.
I think what you really need is a DIY tutorial on how to balance the left and right audio in your videos. Has nobody else found this unacceptably distracting? The intro where she talked was mostly fine but as soon as he started talking next to the camera it became unbearable.
Savannah & many young people made big mistakes by SP (skin painted). As we have known for a fact, that many marriages end in divorce or permanent separation. Their beautiful wall wedding portraits removed. Their pets & children divided weekly. Inked lovers without a college degrees, beauty fades & muscle weaken, how will one going to make $125K+/year? And soon rolling into COVID-21, millions of people lost their jobs & homes. Inking people have to be fully covered up for the live- WIFI job interviews against many with experienced lookers. Playing with car is fine. But soon or later, money needed to put a roof and food on the table. One will no longer care about 0 to 60 in under 7 seconds nor wanting a gas guzzler that do less than 13mpg/city. Nevertheless, this tips might be helpful. But look how many vehicles that are on the roads that have no alignments. Even if one does the laser alignments, come back in 2 months it will be out. And no fool going to recheck it to drop down another $115 to $495.00. Never seen a video of any claimed pro mechanic do full manual front end alignments and then check it with a machine to see how much he or she is off by. ATG and a few can do it. But the trade of this arts are lost because it's all about the money.
This is exactly how I do my little british sports car track car and its very simple people get a little caught up in the numbers but as long as the poles or sticks either end are the same length and are marked up and grooved exactly the same its just creating a squared rectangle around the car to set it up you can measure from any point on the wheel as long as your left to right numbers match front and rear you are squared up. Then just a case of measuring the front and rear of each wheel to the opposite side. As my car is rear wheel drive i like a degree toe out on the front and a degree toe in on the rear so under load/ acceleration it squres it up some what. I have a set of toe plates that I take to the track to check nothing has moved. Thats my thoughts anyway.
I aligned my 90s Audi using fishing wire and four jack stands today... this was after replacing my steering rack and I now track nice and straight. Found this video and it confirms I did it correctly. Cheers!
Was @ the Brickyard Museum I believe at the 90th anniversary back in '99 and had a casual conversation with this old guy about racing and alignments. Almost EVERYTHING you shared here was dead-nuts on w/what he said because he was the one and ONLY one that did ALL the alignments on ALL their cars. Found out later he was the chief master mechanic for a BIG name driver. Wish I would have took a pic but I'll never forget that half hour talk. Biggest thing he shared - be CONSISTANT with what you do and it'll payoff BIGTIME. It's those little fine-tune details that are the difference between being at the back of the pack and standing at the winners circle. GREAT JOB explaining. There's a HUGE gap on all the stuff online and how to do it WRONG and a lot of misinformation. THIS ONE IS RIGHT ON!!! Great job! Savannah had ALL the answers - she's a winner. NEVER stop learning. SUBSCRIBED!!!
oops forgot one detail - the guy I talked about didn't use garbage bags. He used under each tire two old linoleum kitchen tiles (the old stiff type). He said they slid easily on concrete so you can make the corrections easily - AND THEY DO! Been doing that ever since!!
Cheers for this, got the car tracked at home. New anti roll bar bushes, inner / outer tie rods.. so you can just imagine when parts come as different lengths lol you can count your rotations as you remove but nothing ever goes back on the same! Sorted, cheers.
This instructional should have waaay more views,
if only because Kevin is so very entertaining!
Thank you.
Now, I have to go buy some string. : )
One of the best alignment videos on TH-cam. I'd personally glaze the inner part of the plastic bags with lithium grease or even motor oil, to better help the tires/un-sprung suspension settle.
I've done mine for some years now, but the idea of the plastic bags is great!
Excellent video, and very well done! One of the few videos on TH-cam that explains this adjustment method correctly. It's an extremely tedious process as you describe, but the results can be dead nuts if done correctly. Thanks for sharing!
Here are two tricks: 1. lay the two rods next to each other and mark the line spacing on both approx. 200mm wider than the axes.
This guarantees that the two cords are always parallel to each other.
Alignment with the vehicle is now easier as only the rod needs to be centered.
2. loop the cord around the poles. Now the cord is at the top and runs back under the rod. This results in two cords lying one below the other.
If you now measure from above, simply align your view so that only the upper cord is visible. Reading errors are now ruled out.
If your doing this for a race csr that you check once s month or so
Just make ot so you can mount the alignment bars to the car it's self
Then cut 2 grooves on both alignment bars to hold the string
2 nuts welded to each bumper and and matching brackets on the alignment bar should work
I see that it's tedious doing the measurements, but thank you for keeping it in the video to stress how the procedure is actually going to go.
It makes it less obvious if you edit all that out. Thanks again for the how to.
Good luck with your racing season!
It's called parallax error in the trade. Your eye being slightly here versus slightly there. Great vid, much appreciated dudes :-)
8:50 I came to the comments to say the same thing. You beat me.
My wife is constantly yelling at me for speeding... I just tell her "your experiencing parallax error sweetie..."
I've used this method and it works, get super fine on your measurements like they say, take your time, keep that steering wheel straight and bam, dialed it. Bought a camber gauge and dialed in a -5 degree camber and bob's your uncle. This is in my few saved videos.
Yep. The ends of the string, where they tie or hang on the bars have to be the same distance apart. That way they are always parallel as long as you don't slide the strings on the pole. I've made that mistake twice now.
Makes sense, in case of a difference in width front vs rear. As long as those strings are exactly same width apart.
While working with my dad (78yrs young) he taught me to measure in feet and inches. I got to the point where adding subtracting and multiplying fractions in my head became second nature. While working in a fab shop, it was easier to measure in straight up inches+ one little fraction, no matter the distance because tolerances were tighter with steel than stretchy carpet. On small measurements, (machine work, etc., I prefer mm.) Nothing better for small measurements than metrics, although I adapt easily depending on situation. Conversions in my head are getting easier.....
And the first pothole or curb you hit, you have to do it all over again. Whooopy!
Wow I really like the trash bag method. But I love that lift more though lol, really wish I had one. Great video!
That rv is sweet. Traveling to race ain’t cheap. Nice video. Love the detail.
Apex Garage they make nice trailers too. Any time you don’t need to rent a room is an investment. Start slapping a lot more content on this channel, it’ll pay for it. Like your work. If possible try to add some throttle steering and brake position on screen while at the track. If possible sometimes other things are plugged in and won’t allow for that.
kells18 check out our recent video we posted today. Lots of wheel to wheel action with telemetry around VIR! Thanks for the support!
RIP paint work 19:18
Also if the fronts are 148.5 and the rear are 140. How to you know you have the perfect square when you have not measured the distance front left to right of each piece of string across the poles. From a birds eye view ye the fronts might be the same and the backs be the same but it could look like this from above \ /
SirKingOfTheSwing we mention it in the beginning but should have talked about it more, and since have edited the description to explain more on this. But basically we have parallel notches built into our metal poles that creates our parallel line down the car. From there get the gap equal on the front wheel independent of the rear since track widths are different front and rear on many cars.
@@ApexGarage Very useful commemt! I wanted to ask what if wheel tracks are different on front and rear when I read this and now its all clear.
Now I get it a little more since I read the description.
I think you still might have a problem with some cars.
Let's say that the rears are perminant, with a full live axle rear-end.
Now let's say that the axle is dead center and perfect to the car.
Now let's say that the whole front subframe or the whole front end is not center with the car.
Let's say that the front is slide over to the drivers side 1" because we built the car wrong.
Basically the cars rear axle is dog tracking when compared to the front axle. (let's just say that the rear and front axle or wheels are driving perfectly straight with no scrub, only thing is that it's just dog tracking perfectly)
Your strings are parallel along the car, the center of each hub measures to the string is even across all hubs right to left like you are showing.
Now if you were to measure the toe for the rear axle (un-movable), it would appear that it's off compared to the string.
Using notches on the poles like you are doing is great, but I think that the perfect box (string square) should be placed along the car with the toe measurement off of the rear axle rims. Basically the stings are parallel with the rear rims tracking. Since the rear axle can't move, everything needs to be referenced off of the rear rims.
Now that the strings are perfect with the rear wheels, you can measure toe for the fronts off of the string. That measurement will be off since the car is perfectly dog tracking 1" off set. Which is ok, because measuring front rims toe is off of the perfect parallel strings.
Only thing that would look funny is that the front inner hubs are measuring 1" off set, but the wheels are all driving dead straight.
Now just adjust toe in or out to how you want the front to be. I think this is called "thrust" alignment, as apossed to 4 wheel alignment.
The way you are doing it is assuming that both axles are not dog tracking at all (just has different track width)
If the rear of the car is wider than the front and you’ve measured 148.5 on the rear and 140 on the front the string isn’t running parallel front to back so you’re making adjustments based on a string that is already out of alignment because it’s tapering in from rear to front giving the impression that the wheels are toed out when really they could be perfect
You have the number backward, it was 148.5mm on the front and 140mm on the rear, because the rear on these cars is wider. Also this is why we compare left to right when balancing the strings, not front to rear. Which I believe I mention at some point in my rambling haha. Also one thing I should have spoke more on is the fact that my rods have grooves in the ends that allows me to know the strings are on the same spot on both ends, which leaves us to dial in the left-to-right on the front and then the left-to-right on the rear to evenly disperse the spacing of our parallel lines.
Apex Garage ahhh right so the poles have markings spaced out the same in the front and also the rear ? That makes more sense haha, I thought the strings were also being adjusted and could result in false readings
bradley tomlinson yeah we show the grooves in the beginning but I only mention making ziptie channels for those at home. I probably should have elaborated on that a bit more. Thanks for the question!
@@ApexGarage so the strings are actually parallel and measure the same distance to each other front and rear? I did find it a bit confussing and had the same idea as the original poster thinking you set them off the wheel centers, meaning they arnt parallel.
But thinking now you didnt touch the string just the pole. Thanks for the video, would be great to see how you guys set camber.
In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. When measuring to the wheel caps to strings, I was getting moving the entire bar, not just one string. But again that was with my strings in parallel spots on each bar. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Thank you for helping me to lend Mall about alignment I would like you to send me more videos
What about using a spacer that's a set distance off of the center cap and then have the string touch that spacer. Then repeat for the rear and have the string touch the spacer at the rear again. Wouldnt that be easier than having to measure the string distance from the center cap and keep adjusting everytime? Also can you do one side (front and rear) measurement at a time if you don't use that bar? I'm asking because some one car garages are tight for space so you may not be able to adjust both sides or set up both sides at the same time.
Love that double bag trick. Very smart. The double layer is the trick hey? I wonder if 6 mil poly for rez vapo barrier would be a bit tougher...just bc I have a ton of it left over.
Metric for speeds, large distances, or energy / mass stuff....or any kinda engineering calc for sure. But when it comes to fabricating (CNC or welding) I prefer inches. Squaring things with fractions is much easier inside my little brain. Especially when talking tolerances...i dunno why but 1-2 thou or 7 tenths is just easier to say. But use what works for you for sure. No flame. Hahahah.
What camera / lens do you use? Savanna holds it hella still, but im curious if your camera gear has some kinda of image stablization in it. Viewers complain on my channel that I can be a bit shakey sometimes. I need an OIS lens or the gimbal if im free handing it.
I really need that IBIS in the Pana's tho....so smooth.
Great video. Everything made sense and you're right the parallelism of the strings to each other and to the centerline of the axles are key. Imma go align my truck right now cause no lift needed hahahaha.
Love the video. Only issue I have is with my destroy or die lower arms that are extended my front wheels stick out more than the front
Channel deserves more views n subs 👍
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 not sure how I missed this. In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Sachin
Metric rules🤘😆 get it, ruler😂
🤦🏻♂️
clever name not my best day of comedy 🤷♂️😂
@@davidtheswedishtechguy lol
🤦
This was very helpful.
And now I need to turn some material w/ scribe lines that will fit into 1/2" or 3/4" conduit...
Most of the string methods on youtube are simply wrong. The distance of the front wheel pair may be different from the rear pair. To account for that.
1. To have 2 parallel lines make sure the distance of the 2 lines tied to one pole equal to that of the other pole
2. With that established the next step is to have the distance of the line to the wheel reference point equal distance for the front pair.
3. Do the same to the rear pair. Note: the front pair and rear pair may not agree for the reason above
4. Proceed to the rest
isnt that what they said?
In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. When measuring to the wheel caps to strings, I was getting moving the entire bar, not just one string. But again that was with my strings in parallel spots on each bar. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
I like those wheels.
This is a very good inoirmative video!! Nicely done!
Your the girl!... GOOOOOO SAVANNA!!!!!!🏁🏁🏁
Thank you race-car Jonah Hill.
Very comprehensive. Have an upvote ^_^
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 im impressed you commented on every comment. In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Great informative video. I like your emphasis on accuracy and taking your time, Great info for the beginner and veteran wrenchers to do an alignment properly. Thanks for sharing.
Question.... It seem that the poles with slots are pretty important as far as the distance between the two slots in each pole?
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. When measuring to the wheel caps to strings, I was getting moving the entire bar, not just one string. But again that was with my strings in parallel spots on each bar. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks, I had never done the string method and I want to try it. I was not sure how to set it up and get things square. I had done my alignments by scribbing the tires. I have a set of turn plates so that make adjustments easy.
Im a little confused on the toe-in. Another video seemed to say the front wheels should be toed in 1/16 of an inch at the front of the wheels. Is that correct or no.
Laser may be the best, but not every mechanic using the laser alignment gives a darn to get it beyond "good enough"....
I am going to try this on my baja bug, i cant find any shop that will do my alignment...
CCDProductions make sure you see my notes in the description about making sure you have parallel grooves in your bars, I should have elaborated more on that and some people got confused.
Thanks for the information
would be nice if went into camber a little bit but i think i get the idea. thanks for the vid and all the time you put into it. i wrote alot down because i want to learn to do this myself
Oscar Goss camber is super easy. It’s literally just take a metal square tube or something that is perfectly flat and extends from wheel lip to wheel lip (not touching the tire) and then put a digital level on that flat place and it will give you a number like 87deg, which means from straight up and down (90deg) you are -3deg of camber.
@@ApexGarage wow. That is easy enough. Thanks!!
It's called a LEVEL !! 😆
After install the rack and pinion do I have to alignment my car ?
Yeap
Metric makes more sense math wise, but 1/32” is 0.79mm, so an SAE ruler can achieve greater precision than a metric one.
Good video...thanx Savannah and Kevin
How can you be sure the tires are alligned with the chassis if the measurements of aligning the strings with the car are based off the tires? Is that a whole other thing that should be checked before even doing any of this procedure?
Really liked the DIY! Maybe a caster camber video next?
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 and again: not sure how I missed this. In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
The rim looks good what the rims ?
If the same wheel measured in the video had 65mm on the front of the tire and 64.5 in the rear ; would that mean toe out , +.05 ?
What about having the wheel stay centered during the adjustment ; if i don't have a steering wheel lock can someone sit inside and hold the wheel while I adjust it?
Hi RZA, that is toe in as the distance is further from rim to string at the front. I initially thought the same whilst watching.
Can you explain why you would want the left and right strings connected with a single bar? What good does that do you ?
Jason Widelitz you want the two strings to be parallel. Our bar has grooves in the end that are equally spaced on both ends of the bar. As long as we keep those strings in the same grooves on each side then the know we can adjust them equally to make parallel lines. The entire purpose is to make parallel lines compared to the car so you have something equal to measure from on both sides
@@ApexGarage Thanks for the response. I see know its a squaring issue. Thanks
Awesome videos very informative. 👍
@@johnmichaeltwist5086 not sure how I missed this comment of yours too, but in an effort for more people to see my response ill leave it again: In the beginning when I talk about my parallel bars, I didnt stress enough the fact that they had notches equally placed on each end of both rods. This allows me to make a perfect box around the car to measure from with parallel string lines. I should have elaborated on that more, and have since added details to the video description. Sorry for the confusion.
Because you never measured the distance between the left and right strings at the front and rear, you have no idea if the strings are parallel OR square. So, you cannot make an accurate toe in measurement. You also did not check to see if the rear axle is square on the chassis. If it isn't, no useful toe adjustment can be made.
Also, track width between front Axl and rear Axl are almost always different. Not a good measurement from center cap to center cap of the rear track width is wider by a few mm’s.
Thank you.
The distance between the string and the wheel caps should not be the same in the front and in the rear. You have to check the wheel track width of your car model and take that into consideration.
We cover that at some point in the video when I’m explaining why the rear and front numbers are different when measuring.
Savannah looks like David Lee Roth Van Halen singer
use a plumb bob...saves time and is more accurate
Metric 100% makes more sense. Screw fractions
Metric ftw
This is a Great Channel. #thelatemodeltech
Is your rear a 1/2 mil toe out? the back of the rim was 65 mil from the string and the front of the rim was 64.5 mil from the string meaning the front of the rim is closer to the string and therefore the front is facing slightly out.
You even explain it correctly at 18:30, but then mark down that you're a 1/2 mil toe in.
I also confuse about that until I saw your answer, I believe you are right!
Where did you get that fancy bar?
Danny Hagford those bars are from Smart Strings. The notches definitely help for getting everything parallel
Apex Garage I appreciate the speedy reply, thank you
Just put roller under string
Sorry but string is way better then any lazier kit.
Only one country went to the moon. And they didn't use Metric.
sorry to burst your national pride bubble but ukma.org.uk/why-metric/myths/metric-internationally/the-moon-landings/ and alot of nasas top scientists were german so used metric also
Yes, almost every other country in the entire world is wrong and MURICA is right.
Ok, I'll just take it to a shop that can do that laser alignment then.. this is insanely tedious...
Yeah, we'll use the metric measuring system.......148 and a half millimetres!!!!
Just pay £25 and get it done by a professional
See that’s not true, if you have a lowered car that the alignment tools won’t clamp on properly you have to go to a garage that has the internal wheel clamps n that’s £75-£100 to start with n then they charge you for adjusting it! Only a few garages round me do the internal clamps, I now do the string method as it’s free n also do friends lowered cars!
15 mins on setting up a string line within a half mm, "things may move", "should be close", "might be different"....it's not the Space shuttle! haha
I think your methods are flawed. When two front readings from the wheel center are the same, and two rear readings from the wheel center are the same, but they're different from each other, it means the two lines are diverging, not parallel. You need to make sure the front reading and rear reading ON THE SAME SIDE are the same then the string is aligned with the car body.
starr karl in the beginning I mentioned we have bars on front and rear that have machines grooves in them where we hang the strings to make them parallel. I added some post edit notes in the description to be a bit more specific as many have asked the same question. With the strings in a parallel setting based on the grooves we then measure front left to front right and center and then left rear compared to right rear and center.
Close to correct
That was meant fori r Starr
I think what you really need is a DIY tutorial on how to balance the left and right audio in your videos. Has nobody else found this unacceptably distracting? The intro where she talked was mostly fine but as soon as he started talking next to the camera it became unbearable.
Savannah & many young people made big mistakes by SP (skin painted).
As we have known for a fact, that many marriages end in divorce or permanent separation.
Their beautiful wall wedding portraits removed. Their pets & children divided weekly.
Inked lovers without a college degrees, beauty fades & muscle weaken, how will one going to make $125K+/year?
And soon rolling into COVID-21, millions of people lost their jobs & homes.
Inking people have to be fully covered up for the live- WIFI job interviews against many with experienced lookers.
Playing with car is fine.
But soon or later, money needed to put a roof and food on the table.
One will no longer care about 0 to 60 in under 7 seconds nor wanting a gas guzzler that do less than 13mpg/city.
Nevertheless, this tips might be helpful.
But look how many vehicles that are on the roads that have no alignments.
Even if one does the laser alignments, come back in 2 months it will be out.
And no fool going to recheck it to drop down another $115 to $495.00.
Never seen a video of any claimed pro mechanic do full manual front end alignments and then check it with a machine to see how much he or she is off by.
ATG and a few can do it.
But the trade of this arts are lost because it's all about the money.