The metal tip at the end of your tape measure is a little bit loose for a reason. The first inch of the tape is short by 1/16 of an inch. This isn’t an error: it’s meant to provide you with accurate readings whether you’re measuring the inside or outside edge of a surface. The metal tip is exactly 1/16 of an inch thick. If you’re measuring the outside of a surface and hook your metal end on the edge, that metal piece will shift out and create a gap, so that you aren’t counting it in your measurement.
I don't have the knowledge to say you're wrong. That said, my only rebuttle is this....any NEW tape I've ever owned was tight. After time they've become loose. I'm not a carpenter, but I'll continue to use a tight tip rather than a loose tip when an exact measurement is required. I appreciate your time making this comment. Please do not mistake my reply. Sometimes, there are difference of opinions. I welcome all comments that may not coincide with statements I've made, as a chance for viewers AND myself to gain knowledge. Thank you for watching, and the comment! 🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad DWaaX is correct on this one. I recommend a quick google search on the topic if you have any doubts. Plenty of information out there to confirm this.
When shockwave says he does not have the knowledge to dispute your comment. Which you're totally correct and don't have to be a carpenter to know. Then why did he continue with disputing your comment. 🤪🐓🍭
I just did this today. Changed upper and lower A arms. Took it to a local recommended shop, 150$ later it pulled right. I took it back and the charged me another 150$, and it still pulled right. Order my plates, came in today, mine was a half inch toed in. Did some measuring off common spots on each side to see which tie rod i needed to adjust. Made adjustments for a 16th toed in and she drive straight again. I try and do everything I can myself. Super hard to find a good shop outside your own garage.
A little measuring tape design. The end is made loose to give you the correct measurement whether you're pulling the tape over an object or pushing the tape up against an object. It is true that abuse will mess this up.
The tip of your tape measure is loose so that if you hook a board it pulls it out the thickness of that hook and if you butt it up on the inside it pushes it in that thickness to always have an inch no matter what. Other than that pretty cool video i hadnt ever seen these plates before
Yessir. Aware that there is SOME looseness to a tape. If I'm not mistaken, it should be a 16th. Nevertheless, the tape I used in this video had at least a quarter inch play in it and that is no good, LOL! Appreciate the insight on the actual reason of the tape. I ain't no carpenter, LOL. Glad you liked the vid. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Use the same tape. The movement in the end is for inside or outside measurement but not all tapes are marked accurately. Big name brands mark them exact but others don't. A cheap tape can be a good quarter off at 20ft, in construction it comes up a lot. One guy comes up with a different number than a guy with another brand. For this it doesn't matter. Always use the same tape because you just want the difference. I think my Pt Cruiser wants .4" front to rear of tire. That's like 3/8" That's a huge number but I think it was because it was made for city driving. People like to feel centered and it pulls you right back when you let go of the wheel.@@ShockWaveOffroad
FYI: That play is supposed to be there in the end of a tape measure... that way when measuring inside measurements and outside measurements that hook slides the thickness of the hook. Otherwise you'll always be 1/16" off.
I have the same plates. They work great. couple of suggestions. You don't need 2 tape measures. Just use the same one front and rear. That is actually more accurate because it eliminates the chance of variability between the 2 tape measures. The other thing is you front axle should be as close to ride height as possible and the plates level, in this case with your axle they appear to hit the caliper. the calipers should be removed so the plates can be leveled. I have an Sd60 front axle and the plates clear my calipers no problem so removal is based on what axle your running.
I made my own plates but they basically work the same way. I agree with using one tape to eliminate discrepancies between the tapes. You can also pull the tape against a ruler and check how close they are to each other. The slop in the tape hook is there to adjust for inside and outside measurements but it's not super accurate. I eliminated the tapes altogether, I picked up an aluminum ruler (at HF)that is less than the width of a TJ XJ width wms to wms. I heated a piece of PCV pipe to the "very pliable point". Form the PCV over the ruler making a "sliding sleeve". Tip, when the PVC cools, it shrinks, I layered up some masking tape then a cover layer of aluminum tape to give a little tolerance so it will slide once the tape is removed after cooling. Now I can expand the rule w/sleeve between the plates, pencil mark it, then go to the other side and repeat. Look at your pencil marks to determine your toe out or in. easy peasy. I don't care what the actual measurement between the plates is, only the difference between front and back. ALSO where the measurement is made in relation from the hub center directly affects the actual amount of toe IE if you measure out one foot from center, set the toe. Then measure out two feet, it will be a different measurement. This is how it affects us with bigger tires and using stock settings. Well, that's how I understand it anyway....
Put the car on the ground. Roll it forward a foot. Measure the distance from the rear of one tire to the rear of the other tire. Mark the spots of the measurement on the tires. Roll the car forward one-half tire rotation. Measure the distance from the marked spots. You now have a dead nuts accurate loaded tow deviation measurement. And it's oblivious to bent wheels, spindles or tires.
Holy cow guy, think before you talk! The play in the end of the tape measure is a design feature! It compensates for different measuring methods: Pulling or pushing the tape measure.
The problem with toe plates in general is there is no way to make sure the wheels are square ti the chassis. One wheel can be toe in and the other can be toe out.
That is 100% accurate. Personally, I (know) my chassis is set up properly. This is just a generalization of toe (ASSUMING) you know everything is squared up. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Recommend turning the steering wheel both way counting rotation then return half that amount from ether side. Putting the rack in the center should out the steering wheel centered then do your alinmemt
A couple of big ass adjustable hammers!!! Haha I love how just straight up blunt and straight forward you are. It’s not intentional humor, but it’s funny! And true!
LMAO!! Dude, that's ALL you're gonna get on THIS channel! Straight up, REAL talk. Don't like my delivery? Don't watch!😂🤣😂🤣 Been trying to get the ole lady to wear a crop top, but she gave me an emphatic NO!😂🤣😂🤣😂 Appreciate your support, buddy!!👍🏻👊🏻🍻🤘🏻
1. A quality tape measure has enough play to make up for the thickness of the "hook". 2. How do these plates address "dog tracking"? I clearly understand how they align the front wheels, but how do they relate the front to the rear?
PLEASE NEED ANSWER Can these plates work on cars? every video shows its being done on jeep! SO my question can these be used on cars (sedans) wagons, suv etc?
It looks like this only works for straight axles. It won't work for independent front suspensions because there is no place to support the weight of the vehicle. And even if there were, the suspension would not be able to "slide out" to the sides as the weight comes down on the supports.
Well about the tapes you are wrong! Tapes need to have a loose end!!! The loose end serves the purpose of taking to account the thickness of the metal end for either measuring by pushing on a surface to get inner measurment or pulling on an object to get outer measurment.
Yessir, but there is such a thing a too loose. Which, is what I said if I remember correctly. If I'm not mistaken, the end of a tape should move a 16th of an inch either direction. My old tape easily had a quarter inch play, lol. That's no good. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
if you adjust the tie rod will it fixed the problem toe out like your drawing on photo 3? The wheels are not vertically aligned and adjusting the tie rod will not make any difference to align the toe out to a vertical straight wheel.
Yes. You turn the tie rod one direction and it LENGTHENS the tie rod, which pushes your toe OUT. Turn the tie rod the opposite direction and it SHORTENS the length of the tie rod, which gives you more toe IN. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
The toe changes with suspension travel. You won't be able to set the toe with the jack stands under the control arm. Support the car under the rotor with ball bearings under the supports.
How would someone go about supporting the car under the rotors with ball bearings on the support? I'm just trying to visualize this and I'm really interested
@@DrKnowsMore You are correct. Either the car suspension is loaded as it sits on its tires or it's not. Control arm or ball joint support don't cut it. You know, with the bump steer geometry and all. Best home set up is to run a 50-pound fishing weight scale gauge strung "across" the front tires. Hook the lightweight chains with the scale in the middle to the outside of the wheels. Run it over and across the front of the tires with the fishing scale in the middle. Read the scale. Roll the car "forward" 1/2 tire revolution. Read the fish scale again, at the rear of the tires. Scale pound deviation is the + or - toe runout. This will be oblivious to bent wheels, warped rotors, bulging tires, tape measure reading method errors or any other opportunities for false toe settings. Because its dynamic, not static. Its available, it's affordable, its portable, it stores in a shoe box, its fast, its repeatable. AND ITS DEAD NUTS ACCURATE.
this is one of those videos where you have to read the comments to correctly do the procedure. please update your video so it wont mislead people in the future.
what about the passenger side adjustment ? if you make the measurements equal on the driver side , is there a chance the passenger side is off? The way I see it your dead on for the driver side , but what if the passenger side is not dead on.
Ok, so....you're not measuring "One side or the other". Your steering knuckles are connected by the tie rod. Your tie rod ENDS are what connect the knuckles TO the tie rod. Where the ends screw into the tie rod, one end is a right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread. The reason for this is so when you loosen the jamb nuts and rotate (or twist) the tie rod, the knuckles move simultaneously in the same direction, and that's how the toe is adjusted. If the measurement you take is the same on both tapes, that means your wheels are pointed STRAIGHT. If the rear tape is LESS than the front tape, that means that means, your tires are pointed AWAY from each other, giving you a toe "OUT". If the rear tape is MORE than the front tape, that means your tires are pointed inward, or TOWARD each other, giving you a toe "IN". Hope this explanation helps!🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroadthat's assuming you have a jeep. Other vehicles with independent front suspension, like my Tundra, have independent front suspension with separate Tie rods. Thus you have to take additional steps to make sure each side is adjust separately.
Is this tool only for 4x4s and SUVs and not for cars or sedans? I understand that wheel alignments should be done with the wheels on the ground with the full weight of the vehicle on them. Would that be the same as taking the wheels off and putting jack stands under the control arms just like in the video?
Actually, I've not had any issue with alignment done this way. The weight of the vehicle and tires on the ground are irrelevant, in MY opinion. The spindles will be set where they're set. The only difference is the springs and shocks. But, they have zero effect on the position of your tires. I do MY alignment this way. If you're uncomfortable or unsure, take it to your alignment shop. Whatever makes YOU happy. I'm just showing you an alternative to save yourself some of your money. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Wow thank you so much! It's starting to make sense and come together and I appreciate your effort to make the videos, I've watched your lift for the Clayton and now this one. If you do adjust that drag link I'll be watching!
Glad you've found the videos insightful. As far as the drag link goes, unless your steering wheel isn't straight when your tires are straight....there's no need to touch it. 👍🏻 Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Ok so you just align one wheel. How do I know it wasn't the other one who was hooked? Could it be both ????? and since you are just aligning one side then your steering wheel will probably be crooked
Technically, you're not aligning anything. I mistitled this vid. What you're doing is setting your toe in/out. Because the 2 wheels are connected by your tie rod, you're not "aligning one side", you're aligning both. You're just reading the tape from one side. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Measurements are already off spec once you Jack up the vehicle. It's supposed be allowed tp settle back down and as there is movement in the suspension since that didn't happen your alignment is not correct. Also you are not taking in account of any wheel runout which are the first 2 steps in an alignment
Yeah, you are correct. I mis-titled my vid. Should have been "DIY Toe adjustment". Not to be dead on accurate, but a way to get it close before you head to the alignment shop. I appreciate your input, tho. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
IFS or Straight axle is irrelevant. Yes, these will work. I use them on my truck and our Grand Cherokee as well. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Alignment for street use should not be "straight" slight toe in as set by manufacturer will eliminate vehicle wandering and will track straight. This alignment will contribute to wobble and a car that wanders during travel
I stopped watching when I got to the part where he said the reason why the tips of tape measures are loose is because it’s slams shut when people retract it. I then seriously considered blocking future posts from the channel when he lied in a comment and said he knew there were supposed to be some play but that it was nearly a quarter inch when watching the video it very clearly is the typical 16th of an inch to compensate for the thickness of the blade. If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s a bullshitter and people who can’t admit when they were mistaken.
You know, I considered very seriously blocking future comments from this viewer. But, clearly you have eyes that must be far superior to anyone else's. Especially while watching a video. I've never claimed to be an expert. I am NOT however, a "bullshitter" or a liar. The blade of the tape in question moved WAY more than a 16th of an inch. It's possible that wasn't seen well in the video. And, the fact that allowing a tape to "slap" back DOES affect the blade after time. I also thought about removing this comment, but I'm not going to. You have a right to your opinion, and the integrity of my channel means everything to ME. Don't like my vids...? Don't watch them. Block the channel if you like. Thanks for watching. 🤘🏻
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
The metal tip at the end of your tape measure is a little bit loose for a reason. The first inch of the tape is short by 1/16 of an inch. This isn’t an error: it’s meant to provide you with accurate readings whether you’re measuring the inside or outside edge of a surface.
The metal tip is exactly 1/16 of an inch thick. If you’re measuring the outside of a surface and hook your metal end on the edge, that metal piece will shift out and create a gap, so that you aren’t counting it in your measurement.
I don't have the knowledge to say you're wrong. That said, my only rebuttle is this....any NEW tape I've ever owned was tight. After time they've become loose. I'm not a carpenter, but I'll continue to use a tight tip rather than a loose tip when an exact measurement is required. I appreciate your time making this comment. Please do not mistake my reply. Sometimes, there are difference of opinions. I welcome all comments that may not coincide with statements I've made, as a chance for viewers AND myself to gain knowledge. Thank you for watching, and the comment! 🤘🏻
You are right about that plate being supposed to move; it is a high-quality tape for construction if it moves the thickness of the tape.
It moves the thickness of the end piece
@@ShockWaveOffroad DWaaX is correct on this one. I recommend a quick google search on the topic if you have any doubts. Plenty of information out there to confirm this.
When shockwave says he does not have the knowledge to dispute your comment. Which you're totally correct and don't have to be a carpenter to know. Then why did he continue with disputing your comment. 🤪🐓🍭
I just did this today. Changed upper and lower A arms. Took it to a local recommended shop, 150$ later it pulled right. I took it back and the charged me another 150$, and it still pulled right. Order my plates, came in today, mine was a half inch toed in. Did some measuring off common spots on each side to see which tie rod i needed to adjust. Made adjustments for a 16th toed in and she drive straight again. I try and do everything I can myself. Super hard to find a good shop outside your own garage.
@@ssgoblin True dat!
No fucking doubt i need help using my plates
A little measuring tape design. The end is made loose to give you the correct measurement whether you're pulling the tape over an object or pushing the tape up against an object. It is true that abuse will mess this up.
The tip of your tape measure is loose so that if you hook a board it pulls it out the thickness of that hook and if you butt it up on the inside it pushes it in that thickness to always have an inch no matter what. Other than that pretty cool video i hadnt ever seen these plates before
Yessir. Aware that there is SOME looseness to a tape. If I'm not mistaken, it should be a 16th. Nevertheless, the tape I used in this video had at least a quarter inch play in it and that is no good, LOL! Appreciate the insight on the actual reason of the tape. I ain't no carpenter, LOL. Glad you liked the vid. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Use the same tape. The movement in the end is for inside or outside measurement but not all tapes are marked accurately. Big name brands mark them exact but others don't. A cheap tape can be a good quarter off at 20ft, in construction it comes up a lot. One guy comes up with a different number than a guy with another brand. For this it doesn't matter. Always use the same tape because you just want the difference. I think my Pt Cruiser wants .4" front to rear of tire. That's like 3/8" That's a huge number but I think it was because it was made for city driving. People like to feel centered and it pulls you right back when you let go of the wheel.@@ShockWaveOffroad
FYI: That play is supposed to be there in the end of a tape measure... that way when measuring inside measurements and outside measurements that hook slides the thickness of the hook. Otherwise you'll always be 1/16" off.
I have the same plates. They work great. couple of suggestions. You don't need 2 tape measures. Just use the same one front and rear. That is actually more accurate because it eliminates the chance of variability between the 2 tape measures. The other thing is you front axle should be as close to ride height as possible and the plates level, in this case with your axle they appear to hit the caliper. the calipers should be removed so the plates can be leveled. I have an Sd60 front axle and the plates clear my calipers no problem so removal is based on what axle your running.
Appreciate the input! Thanks for watching and the comment!!🤘🏻
I made my own plates but they basically work the same way. I agree with using one tape to eliminate discrepancies between the tapes. You can also pull the tape against a ruler and check how close they are to each other. The slop in the tape hook is there to adjust for inside and outside measurements but it's not super accurate. I eliminated the tapes altogether, I picked up an aluminum ruler (at HF)that is less than the width of a TJ XJ width wms to wms. I heated a piece of PCV pipe to the "very pliable point". Form the PCV over the ruler making a "sliding sleeve". Tip, when the PVC cools, it shrinks, I layered up some masking tape then a cover layer of aluminum tape to give a little tolerance so it will slide once the tape is removed after cooling. Now I can expand the rule w/sleeve between the plates, pencil mark it, then go to the other side and repeat. Look at your pencil marks to determine your toe out or in. easy peasy. I don't care what the actual measurement between the plates is, only the difference between front and back.
ALSO where the measurement is made in relation from the hub center directly affects the actual amount of toe IE if you measure out one foot from center, set the toe. Then measure out two feet, it will be a different measurement. This is how it affects us with bigger tires and using stock settings. Well, that's how I understand it anyway....
Put the car on the ground.
Roll it forward a foot.
Measure the distance from the rear of one tire to the rear of the other tire. Mark the spots of the measurement on the tires.
Roll the car forward one-half tire rotation.
Measure the distance from the marked spots.
You now have a dead nuts accurate loaded tow deviation measurement. And it's oblivious to bent wheels, spindles or tires.
Metal tip isn't loose from wear it's designed for this first in is 1/16 less and tab is 1/16 made to measure inside and outside of a surface
Holy cow guy, think before you talk! The play in the end of the tape measure is a design feature! It compensates for different measuring methods: Pulling or pushing the tape measure.
The problem with toe plates in general is there is no way to make sure the wheels are square ti the chassis. One wheel can be toe in and the other can be toe out.
That is 100% accurate. Personally, I (know) my chassis is set up properly. This is just a generalization of toe (ASSUMING) you know everything is squared up. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Recommend turning the steering wheel both way counting rotation then return half that amount from ether side. Putting the rack in the center should out the steering wheel centered then do your alinmemt
Good tip! Thanks!
A couple of big ass adjustable hammers!!! Haha I love how just straight up blunt and straight forward you are. It’s not intentional humor, but it’s funny! And true!
LMAO!! Dude, that's ALL you're gonna get on THIS channel! Straight up, REAL talk. Don't like my delivery? Don't watch!😂🤣😂🤣 Been trying to get the ole lady to wear a crop top, but she gave me an emphatic NO!😂🤣😂🤣😂 Appreciate your support, buddy!!👍🏻👊🏻🍻🤘🏻
I Have a set of TMR , They are good only after you file the slag (Burr) off the hole openings.
This is perfect for 4x4 with live axle 👍👍
Yup! Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
"I can rattle-can that shiet." nice
@@dumbeezy5480 🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤘🏻
Very well explained. Great job! New sub
Appreciate it!
Thanks for the comment and sub!🤘🏻
I appreciate your time, guidance and video.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Important, always make sure your steering wheel is straight.
Correct. I've found since I posted this video, that I left out a couple of important bits of information. Appreciate the comment!!👍🏻🤘🏻
1. A quality tape measure has enough play to make up for the thickness of the "hook".
2. How do these plates address "dog tracking"? I clearly understand how they align the front wheels, but how do they relate the front to the rear?
What about cutting matching 2inch plates to use with this in future after getting initial measurements?
PLEASE NEED ANSWER Can these plates work on cars? every video shows its being done on jeep! SO my question can these be used on cars (sedans) wagons, suv etc?
@@denzelreid5431 YES!!!!
If you really worried about the tape being off hold it at the 1 inch or 2 inch mark. Never have to worries about the end being bent or off.
True story.
I also use Kobalt lug nut impact
It looks like this only works for straight axles. It won't work for independent front suspensions because there is no place to support the weight of the vehicle. And even if there were, the suspension would not be able to "slide out" to the sides as the weight comes down on the supports.
Thanks for the video and info!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Great video
Glad you liked it! Hopefully, you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Nice video ,where I get those measure tapes
I got them at Lowe's.
Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Well about the tapes you are wrong! Tapes need to have a loose end!!! The loose end serves the purpose of taking to account the thickness of the metal end for either measuring by pushing on a surface to get inner measurment or pulling on an object to get outer measurment.
Yessir, but there is such a thing a too loose. Which, is what I said if I remember correctly. If I'm not mistaken, the end of a tape should move a 16th of an inch either direction. My old tape easily had a quarter inch play, lol. That's no good. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Great tool those plates!! Smarter than all I have seen makes it way easier and quicker. Thanks for the video.
Glad you liked it!🤘🏻
if you adjust the tie rod will it fixed the problem toe out like your drawing on photo 3? The wheels are not vertically aligned and adjusting the tie rod will not make any difference to align the toe out to a vertical straight wheel.
Yes. You turn the tie rod one direction and it LENGTHENS the tie rod, which pushes your toe OUT. Turn the tie rod the opposite direction and it SHORTENS the length of the tie rod, which gives you more toe IN. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Good job 👍🏻
The toe changes with suspension travel. You won't be able to set the toe with the jack stands under the control arm. Support the car under the rotor with ball bearings under the supports.
How would someone go about supporting the car under the rotors with ball bearings on the support? I'm just trying to visualize this and I'm really interested
@@Duskorn
Put the balls on the floor.
Put the plywood on the balls.
Put the wood blocks on the plywood.
Put the rotor on the wood blocks.
Pure bs comment
Exactly. I never understood these toe plates that require removal of the tire
@@DrKnowsMore
You are correct. Either the car suspension is loaded as it sits on its tires or it's not. Control arm or ball joint support don't cut it. You know, with the bump steer geometry and all.
Best home set up is to run a 50-pound fishing weight scale gauge strung "across" the front tires.
Hook the lightweight chains with the scale in the middle to the outside of the wheels.
Run it over and across the front of the tires with the fishing scale in the middle.
Read the scale.
Roll the car "forward" 1/2 tire revolution.
Read the fish scale again, at the rear of the tires.
Scale pound deviation is the + or - toe runout.
This will be oblivious to bent wheels, warped rotors, bulging tires, tape measure reading method errors or any other opportunities for false toe settings. Because its dynamic, not static.
Its available, it's affordable, its portable, it stores in a shoe box, its fast, its repeatable.
AND ITS DEAD NUTS ACCURATE.
this is one of those videos where you have to read the comments to correctly do the procedure. please update your video so it wont mislead people in the future.
you have your tapes on the other wheel how do you know your other wheel is strait.
what about the passenger side adjustment ? if you make the measurements equal on the driver side , is there a chance the passenger side is off? The way I see it your dead on for the driver side , but what if the passenger side is not dead on.
Ok, so....you're not measuring "One side or the other". Your steering knuckles are connected by the tie rod. Your tie rod ENDS are what connect the knuckles TO the tie rod. Where the ends screw into the tie rod, one end is a right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread. The reason for this is so when you loosen the jamb nuts and rotate (or twist) the tie rod, the knuckles move simultaneously in the same direction, and that's how the toe is adjusted. If the measurement you take is the same on both tapes, that means your wheels are pointed STRAIGHT. If the rear tape is LESS than the front tape, that means that means, your tires are pointed AWAY from each other, giving you a toe "OUT". If the rear tape is MORE than the front tape, that means your tires are pointed inward, or TOWARD each other, giving you a toe "IN". Hope this explanation helps!🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroadthat's assuming you have a jeep. Other vehicles with independent front suspension, like my Tundra, have independent front suspension with separate Tie rods. Thus you have to take additional steps to make sure each side is adjust separately.
Is this tool only for 4x4s and SUVs and not for cars or sedans? I understand that wheel alignments should be done with the wheels on the ground with the full weight of the vehicle on them. Would that be the same as taking the wheels off and putting jack stands under the control arms just like in the video?
Actually, I've not had any issue with alignment done this way. The weight of the vehicle and tires on the ground are irrelevant, in MY opinion. The spindles will be set where they're set. The only difference is the springs and shocks. But, they have zero effect on the position of your tires. I do MY alignment this way. If you're uncomfortable or unsure, take it to your alignment shop. Whatever makes YOU happy. I'm just showing you an alternative to save yourself some of your money. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Wow thank you so much! It's starting to make sense and come together and I appreciate your effort to make the videos, I've watched your lift for the Clayton and now this one. If you do adjust that drag link I'll be watching!
Glad you've found the videos insightful. As far as the drag link goes, unless your steering wheel isn't straight when your tires are straight....there's no need to touch it. 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Ok so you just align one wheel. How do I know it wasn't the other one who was hooked? Could it be both ????? and since you are just aligning one side then your steering wheel will probably be crooked
Technically, you're not aligning anything. I mistitled this vid. What you're doing is setting your toe in/out. Because the 2 wheels are connected by your tie rod, you're not "aligning one side", you're aligning both. You're just reading the tape from one side. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Measurements are already off spec once you Jack up the vehicle. It's supposed be allowed tp settle back down and as there is movement in the suspension since that didn't happen your alignment is not correct. Also you are not taking in account of any wheel runout which are the first 2 steps in an alignment
Yeah, you are correct. I mis-titled my vid. Should have been "DIY Toe adjustment". Not to be dead on accurate, but a way to get it close before you head to the alignment shop. I appreciate your input, tho. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Will these plates work for IFS such as Toyota front ends or just straight axle?
IFS or Straight axle is irrelevant. Yes, these will work. I use them on my truck and our Grand Cherokee as well. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
I always thought tires should be on ground to sdjust toe
they are on SALE $56.21
I saw that when I got the link!!
No to mention, all you need to do is drill wholes in a straight piece of angle iron to make that tool. Why buy that TMR tool?
I can rattle can dat shit LoL 😂
I mean....🤷♂️🤣😂🤣😂🤘🏻
Alignment for street use should not be "straight" slight toe in as set by manufacturer will eliminate vehicle wandering and will track straight. This alignment will contribute to wobble and a car that wanders during travel
Generally toe-in for rear wheel drive and toe-out for front wheel drive.
He addressed that in the video. Good video.
Your toe will be right on the money when you go airborne, once it hits the ground toe is off😅
Do you, boo! Been doing it this way for years and never had an issue.😁
Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
U align your suspension not your tire
I stopped watching when I got to the part where he said the reason why the tips of tape measures are loose is because it’s slams shut when people retract it. I then seriously considered blocking future posts from the channel when he lied in a comment and said he knew there were supposed to be some play but that it was nearly a quarter inch when watching the video it very clearly is the typical 16th of an inch to compensate for the thickness of the blade. If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s a bullshitter and people who can’t admit when they were mistaken.
You know, I considered very seriously blocking future comments from this viewer. But, clearly you have eyes that must be far superior to anyone else's. Especially while watching a video. I've never claimed to be an expert. I am NOT however, a "bullshitter" or a liar. The blade of the tape in question moved WAY more than a 16th of an inch. It's possible that wasn't seen well in the video. And, the fact that allowing a tape to "slap" back DOES affect the blade after time. I also thought about removing this comment, but I'm not going to. You have a right to your opinion, and the integrity of my channel means everything to ME. Don't like my vids...? Don't watch them. Block the channel if you like. Thanks for watching. 🤘🏻
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