How To String Align Your Wheels IN SECONDS with QuickString, from QuickTrick Alignment!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- Finally! An easy way to string align your car. The Gen 5 QuickTrick alignment kit, called QuickString, is simply amazing. This episode I'll show you exactly how to do your own alignment at home, or at the track. If you need to upgrade your Gen 4 kit, you can.
Quick Trick Alignment kits, for home or track use! My "go to" tool for measuring Caster, Camber, and Toe on the go. The kit below has everything I used in the video, the alignment brackets/scales, as well as the Swivel Plates, and Steering Wheel lock. Don't forget to get your 10% off!
QuickString Gen 5 Alignment Kit;
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10% Discount Code: QTMONTY
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Other Part's and/or supplies used in this video series;
Quick Trick Caster and Camber Gauge and Bracket hardware only
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QuickTrick Steering Wheel Lock
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Global West Steering Arm;
www.globalwest.net/a-body-196...
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I was perusing YT videos with the idea of making something like this to make aligning my rig simpler, and I stumbled across this video. I like the design of this system, thanks for sharing it here.
Glad it helped! You're gonna love doing your own free alignments... ha, ha... let me know if you have any questions. Have fun!
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I feel you, I have serious trust issues myself. Don't want anyone touching my car.
Ha! Thanks for the back up on that.
totally agree wit you man. i don't like people touching my car to.
Ha! Totally... same M3 i had, took it to the dealership for a CAT recall... opened the trunk when I got it back, the 150 lb Sub in the trunk slid all the way to one side cracking a side panel... that's how hard one of their service techs drove it. I was beyond pissed! I have a ton of stories like that... anyway, thanks for the comment!
In many cars today the caster and camber are set by the subframe the wheels are mounted to. Leaving "Toe" whether the tires are left, right, or center generally being the only adjustment using the tie rods to adjust.Theoretically doing your own wheel alignbment should be possible.
Doing your own alignment is always possible. To your point, most modern sports cars have aftermarket kits you can add to adjust Caster and Camber, making a do-it-yourself alignment kit that is much more worth it. Thanks!
This work is much more accurate than the laser ,device. Thank you for your good idea
Welcome! Thanks for the comment!
1988 C4 Corvette, C4 Corvette, Parts power steering
Awesome! Thanks for dropping a comment!
Another great video Mike! Did you make a video when you built the front end? Control arms, coil overs etc.
Thanks! No, I wish! Maybe one day if I convert to Tall Spindles, I'll cover that. But, that's a long way away. I do love my set up though... Thanks for the comment!
That is a nice addition to this tool. Now if only I could understand all that measuring and calculating... 🙂
Thanks Brother! Yeah, it's a very brilliant and simple addition to the Gen 4 product. Did I go too fast with the math? ha, ha... thanks again!
@FastMonty Did I miss something? You laid a string front to back, then measured the difference between front and back of one tire.
I see how that works for the *back* tire.
BUT: for the front tire shouldn't there be some kind of process for ensuring the steering is "straight", whatever that means in this case?
Good question... I don't recall if I mentioned it, or not, but you need to make sure your steering wheel is straight, OR, for our older cars, make sure the Pitman Arm from the steering box is straight, then lock it in place with the steering wheel lock. Thanks!
Nicely done dude!!
Thanks Michael!
Can you use this with staggered wheels?
Yup, mine are staggered... I detail how to do it in the video.
how does this makes sence if the rear and front axe distance to the mid of the car ar not the same? they are not paralel....
axel
Good question. I detailed it in the video... with bars mounted on all four wheels, you take the side to side measurement, divide by 2, and that's the offset to use on the front. Thanks for the comment!
After watching this video somethings struck me, so I went back and watched your GEN four alignment videos. First, I hate to say I saw the bungee cords in your GEN four on boxing. after your stringing video, you ended up with one16th toe in which is where you wanted it. When using the GEN five kit you came up with one16th toe out. I guess I’m wondering which do you deem more accurate?
Good stuff Jeffrey! Too funny about the Bungies... you're totally right, I missed those completely! lol Anyway, I mentioned I wanted to "check my math", at the end of the video, where I did a better job measuring the track width's... I was dead straight on the Right Wheel, and perfectly toed in on the Left. So, I only had a minor trim to do on the right. That said, I've driven the car, a lot, since the original stringing video, so it could've been out a little from pot holes, abuse, etc.? I'd say the new method is pretty accurate. Setting up the old fashioned string method is a royal pain with my offset hubs, so I'm loving this new method. Thanks for checking my work! ha, ha...
That’s what got me after watching this. I was like, you’re toe out, you have been driving this. But maybe that’s why.
It may have just settled in.
As always another fantastic video, I have enjoyed them all. Thank you for what you do, you have taught me so much. Keep them coming. It’s winter here.
@@jeffreyurbain9604 Thanks Jeffrey! Yeah, It seems to be winter everywhere... ha, ha... see ya!
$724.95 - $836.95 Jack stands and a string are a LOT cheaper! But thanks for sharing anyways.
That's for the complete Caster/Camber/Quickstring kit. They have lower cost kits... Jackstands and a string do work, just harder to set up. Thanks.
Great for toe-in, but suspension bushings wear, so you need camber, and in some cases caster...
Yup! Exactly why this tool measures all three. Thanks!
Yeah, so easy when you have All the gadgets and the $.
Agreed. But, you can start with their smaller one wheel kits, and build it up over time. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Hmmm 🤔 take a measurement on your rear tires, center to center. (from the back) of car.
Match that measurement to your front tires, center to center.
(from the back 👈🏼 not front) of your front tire’s.
Then cut two 2x4’s for the (back and front) center to center, then take two 10 footers and lay them inside the tire’s flush against front and back inside tires along with with your center marked 2x4’s Then square off. (Bullseye 🎯 every time)
I’m pretty sure you’re steering rack is off, plus your roll is off center, key factors on a really precise smooth don’t feel a bump, balanced car. 😎
After all, that’s what a true alignment is about not which way your tires are pointed.
More than one way to skin a cat. Your method would work great for a perfectly "squared" vehicle. Mine is not. Thanks for sharing!
👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
👍😬👍
Costs $$
That's better than $$$, right? Ha! this is the best Home DIY kit I know of, especially useful for those of us doing alignments once or more a year. Thanks!
1000$ for the tools to do it in your garage or 100$ to have a professional do it. Im all for taking things into your own hands but id rather use the 900$ on other parts.
That's the maxed out kit... and, it's for serious DIY guys/gals, especially if you're using it at the track. Point is, it works, and you don't have to rely on a minimum wage "expert". Thanks!
Not that it matters but, I'm one of the best and sadly few alignment techs that ever walked the face of the planet and I think that while the system is nifty and will get you by in a pinch, it can't account for things like offset, setback, thrust angle, or even tire size and, even if it could, the average DIYer wouldn't understand how to figure all that into a critical total-toe/steering wheel position calculation.
Most solid rear axles aren't centered or even square under the vehicle nor are they actually perfectly straight in terms of toe so you're not actually measuring the vehicle centerline with this tool.
Instead of spending the money on this, I'd just do like they did before alignment machines were used and use a few straight pieces of whatever you have on the front tires to measure total toe between the front and back of the tires, make my adjustments, test drive for a centered steering wheel and readjust if it's necessary and watch for tire wear like a hawk.
If you can set toe in the rear, I wouldn't even use this tool. I'd mark a spot under the vehicle as close to center as you can carefully measure and set each rear tire to that and if you're lucky enough to have the resources to pull THAT off, I'd do the same for the front - As long as you have a rack like that, I'd use a laser on the centerline and measure to that.
I think there are DIYer bubble gauge gismos you can get for caster and camber but, you can get away with it just as well by using a straight edge against the wheel for camber and adjusting caster the way you like it. Unless you have over 5 or 6 degrees positive caster, it's not a critical tire wear angle and even if you did, you're stuck with it but, you can still set caster where ever you like it best within the range of adjustment you have.
The thing to understand is that when you make an adjustment to one angle, it changes ALL your angles including on the opposite wheel. (ask me how I know)
For a complete alignment without a machine, it's a process of setting it, remeasuring, and setting again and again and again...
To minimize the "again and again" bit: Before your final toe adjustment, you'll be constantly adjusting total toe to, or close to, the final value you intend to use in a centered position during the process or you'll struggle with camber adjustments until you're ready to throw a wrench through your windshield no matter what you bought to help make these adjustments up to and including an actual alignment machine. In simpler words: Caster/Camber and Toe - all at the same time with Toe being your final locked-down/fine tuned adjustment.
OR - just do like I do if you don't have access to a machine - Go into the best alignment shop you can find and squeeze a good alignment out of them.
You're paying for it - YOU tell em what you want the way you want it (within educated reason) and if they can't or won't give it to you, take your money somewhere else. I've found that most shops will accommodate as long as you know what you're talking about.
Mark, thanks for the comment, I whole heartedly agree. This is the only tool I know of that will get you the best DIY alignment possible. (It measures Caster, Camber, and Toe) To your point, especially with old fixed axle cars, the very best alignment needs a dedicated laser rack, etc. BUT, the issue, as I point out in one of my videos, is my lack of trust. I've had other cars, like my M3, where I had to go back to the alignment shop several times... only to witness one of the techs fish tail my car, out the driveway. Needless to say I was PISSED. Now, my GTO, has never been touched by another mechanic. (I built and painted it myself) I'm sure I'm not the only one on the planet that feels this way, which is why I love this product so much. Thanks again for your comment, good stuff!
"IN SECONDS" *spends 2 hours bungee cording aluminum bars with rulers screwed on them to his wheels* . It's $49.99 to get it professionally done with lasers........ PEW PEW PEW
Ha! Love the Star Wars laser sounds... the moral of the story is NOBODY touches my cars. ha, ha... This tool works great. Thanks!
Guess you haven’t gotten an alignment lately ,hasnt been 49.99 for years
@@sjd7188 Ha! Good point there.
He clearly states that he much rather do it himself. Like most of us gearheads, we don't want anyone working on our cars if it can be helped.
@@sjd7188 that's what I pay for a toe alignment. That's all he's doing here so same same. If you want a real, accurate alignment (caster, camber, toe) its $79. 4 corner balance and ackerman is $130.