Refinish Handrail & Newel Pole - Varathane Stain & Poly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2020
- Varathane Stain & Polyurethane in Black Satin makes refinishing stained handrails much easier because the project can be completed without taking the handrail apart.
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Thank you for this video and answering all of the questions in the comments.
You’re Welcome Shareia!
Love you are sharing your Hair videos.
I’ve always thought they’re not a gift unless you give them away! I’m happy to share my gift.
All-in for grins,
Pat InPaint
Thanks Pat! Great work! Looks really great! I’m staining my handrails this week. You’ve been helpful!
You’re Welcome Yvonne
Take your time, do prep well, and allow each coat to dry tack-free before moving to the next.
I cold or moist weather, dry time will take longer.
Thank You
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 Will do! If I run into any snags, I’ll hit you up! 😉
Excellent video thank you so much. Watching from England
Thanks for watching Skyline GTR
That a strong handle and a fast ride!
Pat InPaint
Per your concern about paint brushes stored in fridge, We started to do the same but had the same concern. Then it occurred to us to just store it in the beer fridge out back. But even then the paint seems to get compromised after awhile. Now we just try to clean as best as we can so we are not throwing away brushes. Thank you for you video. I think we may go this route for our railing.
TY Arin,
“Tried and True” is the guide to success. And I’m as frugal as the next, but short cuts often lead to inferior results. My goal for all my readers is Success the First Time, Every Time.
As noted about PolyShades w several others, allow each coat to completely dry … even if it takes longer than expected. The coating will be very hard and durable as well.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Great work. I think I’ll follow this one.
Hey Frankly Speak’n
I touched that handrail 20-minutes ago and admired the smooth, satin finish. Except for the Stain & Polyurethane-In-One, this is a very traditional repair. Prep is the key.
TY for the comment!
Pat InPaint
Hey@Augustine Dean
The key to this product is to remember that oil dries is 6-8 hours per coat. So wait the full time to apply the second coat. And my last coat (2nd) required several days to fully cure. So just give it time to set fully before putting it into everyday use. I touched it several days ago and it has a perfect satin finish that’s hard and durable.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
This was so helpful. Thanks!
Thanks Clayandsteel!
My goal is to share the right products and applications to help you have success the first time, every time.
Glad to know it helped!
Pat InPaint
We're about to start our bannister and newel posts. Do I need to sand down to bare wood? Our current stain on the bannister is from when our house was built 16 years ago. Just not sure how much sanding should be done.
Thanks moach5015
In my example, using Stain & Poly, I suggest “breaking the gloss.” If you’re using that product, you don’t have to reach bare wood. The key: sanding enough of the old finish to remove the shiny surface coating of the old poly. That layer, if left intact, will create a different absorption rate from the areas where the old clear coat is already gone. If the old surface looks shiny, do a bit more sanding until you break thru. This will allow each coat of Stain & Poly to absorb into the surface evenly.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
what do you think about redoing a red oak dining table? will it hold up to daily use with water glasses, plates, etc?
Hi Music Mom
Yes, the oil-based version of Polyshades will hold up to water glasses and daily use.
Do Not use the water-based version … condensation from water glasses will re-wet the product and create water rings and discoloration.
Once two-coats have full dried and your color is even, you might consider adding 2-coats of oil-based clear polyurethane for extra protection.
Most hardwood floor installers use 3-coats of poly on top of the stained wood to add durability.
Each coat of Polyshades contains polyurethane, so you might only add 1-2 coats of clear poly for similar durability.
NOTE: oil-based products dry very slowly in cool temp and moist air. Allow extra time for each coat to fully dry before proceeding to the next coat. Dry means not tacky to the touch. You’ll be so much happier w the results, if you simply take your time.
Pat InPaint
Hi Pat, I have a natural Maple handrail sealed with a water based polyurethane. Do you think the Varathene stain and poly can penetrate the close grain and give a good result?
Hey Baseball Dude,
The closer to uncoated wood you can prep, the better Varathane will adhere. But keep in mind that Varathane Stain and Poly was designed to be a top coat, not a penetrating stain. The prep creates a surface that promotes adhesion. Two coats about 24-hours apart will help cover the old color. Apply each coat in the direction of the wood grain and do not touch it again until dry. Then apply the next coat and do not touch again … additional brushing will create streaks.
If you want to take full advantage of your Maple handrail, consider removing the entire coating down to raw wood. Then use an oil-based stain, which you will wipe off when the color reaches your preferred color. Oil-based Poly will overcoat and protect the wood … two coats 24-hours apart.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Braves 21!
I’ve never used stain and poly mix. So, no wipe I assume, because of the poly? Does the oak grain still show through without wipe? Doing new red oak Newell and rail. Verathane Kona. Would it be best to do regular stain and then poly or would this mix work ok? I struggle with getting a consistent cover after wipe, so the no wipe mix is intriguing. Again, new oak wood. Great video by the way, and excellent commentary! Grateful. Steve in Kansas
YW Steve
Like you I was a traditional stain to color and Poly to seal.
The advantage to PolyShades is it covers old stains without completely removing them.
If I had new wood, I would go traditional. It allows you much more control of exact shades of color.
The key is to make long, flowing strokes and repeat the wipe-off time precisely on each piece.
There are several more steps going traditional… like adding second or third coats to deepen color.
If you choose PolyShade, Do Not Wipe or touch for 6-8 hours. Your notion about wiping is precisely correct.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Thank you for the quick response. Appreciate it!
What’s the difference between this Poly+Stain and Gel Stain? I’m trying to decide which to use on my staircase. I’m doing black as well
Great Q Lisa Ford!
Poly+Stain is a topcoat most similar to polyurethane w a semisolid color added. It is usually a refreshing coat over existing stain that requires two coats to cover the old stain color. It can be used on unfinished wood, but most often is used to cover old stains as a surface coat (top coat) after you scuff sand to break the gloss over the old stain.
Gel Stain is like tradition stain only products with 2 exceptions: 1) gel stain is thick and can easily be applied to vertical surfaces (exterior doors & kitchen cabinets) because it will not run or drip, and 2) gel stain should only be applied to well prepared wood surfaces into which it can absorb. A second coat is recommended to help even the color. Gel Stain does not contain a clear coat and is also suitable for exterior stain jobs.
Many traditional stains are interior-only products that will not survive sunlight exposure.
With both products, wait about 6-hours between coats. SO PLEASE ... NOTE: both these products are no-wipe, simply apply and allow to dry
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
I just used one of these last night and it's basically alreayd been over 12 hours. It still feels tacky. Can I recoat already or do I scratch and start over? I'm not sure what I did wrong.
Don’t Fear the Stain Maria Murillo,
Mine was tacky, but not sticky, when I applied the second coat. And once the second was applied, I waited 4-5 days before allowing handling. It will cure, but w summertime high humidity it will take longer than even the label recommends. I touched mine a few minutes ago and it is a very hard, durable satin black. You can expect the same. So don’t give up on your project, just give a bit more time for drying.
Hope this restores your confidence,
Pat InPaint
Good Day Maria,
This oil-based product is thinned w/ mineral spirits, so expect a fairly strong odor for 6-8 hours following each coat.
I prefer oil-based coatings for surfaces like this because they dry very hard and create a long-lasting, durable finish.
Note: if you have rain or high humidity, expect to double your dry time … or possibly longer. It will cure, you just need to be aware that putting it back in use will take longer in high humidity.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
Not sure if it is a dump question but, if you're doing black, why not simply using black paint instead of black stain? I have a white railing which I am planning to redo in a brownish tone and was thinking of just using paint (after doing the proper sanding prep work as you demonstrated).
Great Question Andre!
Because stain is a penetrating sealer, it tends to embed into a well-prepared surface and add durability. Two coats is most common.
Paint is a surface coating. You will prep, then use a gray primer, and finish w two or more coats of paint. The primer will promote adhesion. Without primer, expect the paint to chip more frequently.
If the original coating was oil-based, start w an oil-based primer. Oil paint is also more durable than water-based.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 what if I oh don’t know what type of paint was originally used? I have kiltz original in my stash. Ephedra that primer if I’m using a water based paint?
@@msjoy2005
Great idea to Kilz Original before painting. The oil primer will stick to most existing surfaces and will accept any topcoat.
The one prep I would do before priming is sanding to smooth the surface. You can also sand after first coat of Kilz Original dries, then add one more coat of Kilz.
I would choose oil-based paint because it will dry very hard and will not chip easily.
Drop back to let us know how it turns out.
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 thank you! I’ll definitely think about the oil based paint. I only have water based at the moment. But the stair project is far down the push of renos
Great question Andre!
If you use paint, you will also need a primer tinted to be similar to your blue topcoat.
The prep is the same.
Then you add one coat of oil-based tinted primer followed by two coats of oil-based paint … three total coats w 6-8 hours between coats.
Oil-based stain eliminates the primer coat, so you shorten your timeline by one day.
In a high traffic area, you really need the durability of oil.
Water-based paints will chip and stain when handled frequently.
Oil-based will clean and remain a much harder surface … maintaining beauty for much longer.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
I have Oak Bannisters and rail. I want Black on both. But do not want a gloss nor do I want the grain to come through what would you suggest.
Hey Deanna,
1) Lightly sand w 220-grit to remove minor imperfections. 2) Use a shop vac followed by Denatured Alcohol on a terry towel to wipe away sanding dust,
3) allow to dry 1-hour, then prime w grey-tinted oil primer,
4) after 1-hour dry time, 220 sand again and remove dust,
5) w a natural Bristle brush or a pro spraying tool, apply a thin coat of low luster, oil-based paint (satin or flat).
6) wait 6-8 hours between coats and expect 2 coats to cover, and
7) Wait 8- hour to several days for the last coat to fully cured.
8)Your finished product will be low luster and very hard to chip … in other words Durable
Optional 9) So add a low luster oil-based clear on too. It is a personal preference that adds one more layer of durability.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Wish you worked at my Home Depot! My guys don’t seem to actually have used any of their products.
TY Jake
Hands-on gives you a tried and true understanding of capabilities, limits, and creative uses.
Is possible to get a video like this on Gel Satin? My banister has 5-6 layers of various color of white, I used a paint stripper but can't get all the paint from a small designs. So I am hoping to get some giudeanc on Gel Satin to hide a little bit of a white paint that shows. Also undersiof hand rails did not get cleaned up with paint stripper
Thank You
th-cam.com/video/Ncd9EvCUXjM/w-d-xo.html Here is the Minwax guy using Gel Stain on a door. His suggestions will hopefully help.
If not come back and we can discuss your project in detail
Pat InPaint
I tried this on oak and it takes several layers before it was black. Does this not work well with oak?
Hi Organize with Me
Oak has very tight grain, while Pine has very open grain. Hardwood, like Oak, is going to absorb more slowly. And require more coats.
On my handrail, I applied two coats for full coverage.
You should also expect the product to take at least six-hours to dry. And as you add layers, it may take longer to dry ... my second coat did not fully harden for 4-5 days But after giving it time to cure, the satin finish is smooth to the touch and not too shiny.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
Thank you SO MUCH!!
How was the smell? I'm planning on doing the same project but I have kid in the house.
I apologize Eddy
I somehow missed your question. The smell was just like every other oil-based coating … it lingered for 6-8 hours. And the second coat was the same.
I used oil-based because it dries into a much harder, durable finish.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Hi Pat, I am staining my handrail and 14 hours later my handrail is still tacky. This is what I did. I used liquid sandpaper first, let it dry. painted a light coat. I am stressing. What should I do?
No Worries Joanne!
Oil products take longer to dry, particularly if humidity is high.
I waited about 4-days after my final coat to put the handrail in use.
You need to do the same … wait until the first coat dries to proceed. The delay in adding your second coat will ensure your base layer is hard and ready to accept the 2nd coat.
When working w oil products, always expect a longer timeline.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
BTW I touch my handrail a few days ago and it is still a hard coating without chips or marks. Once done, yours should be the same.
@@patinpaint746 Thank you so much! Your right, it is dry now! I was freaking out and thinking why did I even do this. I am so relieved! Thank You!
YW Joanne,
The beautiful finish you created will be durable and maintenance free … I wipe mine w just like kitchen cabinets: very small drop of dish soap on a lightly damp sponge, 1 lightly damp lint free towel to remove soap and another dry lint free towel to remove moisture.
Gotta love a simple-to-maintain high-use surface.
Thank for the confirmation!
Pat InPaint
This video is great!
What grits of sandpaper did you use?
(If handsanding only).
Hey Tara Harrison!
Start prep with a 100-grit that will quickly cut the old coating. Then use 150-grit over the entire project to smooth the surface. Use Denatured Alcohol on a cotton terry towel to wipe away the dust. Do not use mineral spirits as it can make remnants of the old coating become sticky.
Follow the two-coat method w 6-8 hours between coats. And allow second coat to fully cure ... in my application it took almost 4-day for the last coat to fully cure.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 that's wonderful, thank you for what you do. :)
YW Tara
Hey sanding by hand you might go down to 80-grit if 100-grit doesn’t cut. Then use your 100 as the final smoothing sand.
Hand sanding is a little less aggressive than power sanding.
Your guide will be a good amount of sanding dust after 4-5 passes. If no dust, go to lower number paper.
Thanks again!
I wanted to stain my stairs but the old owners globed paint on it and I don’t wanna strip. I now will scuff sand and paint
Your primer is the key to success.
If original paint was oil, use an oil primer and tint it similar to your new color.
If original is water-based, water or oil primer will work.
Use a rag lightly wet w alcohol to rub firmly against your original paint. If the paint color comes off on the rag, the paint is water-based. If your original paint becomes shiny but no paint color on the rag, your paint is oil-based.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
Yeah is really good stain but dry fast..
Thanks for checking in Nester Mejia!
The stain and poly I demo here is oil-base. On the label, dry time is six-hours for each coat. But from my experience, I would suggest 8-10 hours per coat.
If you rush thru faster than that, the second coat resets the first coat, causing streaks.
My second coat actually felts slightly tacky for 4-5 days after drying for 8-hours. But the coating dried hard and smooth just by waiting and allowing the solvent to evaporate over time.
I touched that handrail recently and admired the smooth lower sheen Satin finish.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
Do I need to use topcoat after using this(stain&poly)???
Hey Diana!
No topcoat needed because this product contains Polyurethane.
Two things:
1) allow this slow drying product 6-8 hours between coat 1 & 2,
2) after coat 2 is completely dry you may add an oil-based polyurethane coating to make the durable finish even more protected … key word = may
I’ve had mine in use for a good while and see no signs of dings or other surface damage. So that extra protection really isn’t needed, even though some people prefer the extra step.
Hope this helps,
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 Good to know:)
Thank you so much!!
Where are the rest of the balusters?
Thanks Rob
This house was constructed before codes changed regarding balusters.
Good observation skills!
Pat InPaint
Why not use, sanding liquid? Instead of using the tool and hard to reach spots
Hey C Lapuc,
Thanks for checking in!
Sanding liquid leaves a “primer” layer on the wood, which closes the wood pores. Stains are penetrating coatings which need to absorb to be durable.
So, why not … because it creates a brittle coating which chips and comes off easily.
I went to oil-based stain-and-Poly to create a very hard handrail coating that would survive high-traffic abuse.
If I were painting, instead of stain, I would use a dark Gray oil primer followed by an oil-based paint.
And I would still sandpaper to prep.
Hope this helps!
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 good point and the sanding liquid.
What if you want to do a nice glossy finished. Stain and clear coat on top multiple times? I think I answered the second question myself.
@@clapuc9489 you’re so right!
High gloss coating can best be created waiting til each prior clearcoat dries, then scuff sanding w 220-grit just enough to break the gloss. Then remove the sanding dust and apply next coat. I typically use 3 coats.
Note: use a dry rag and vacuum to remove sanding dust DO NOT wet your rag w mineral spirits because it can rewet the previous coat and become tacky and difficult to dry.
Hope this helps and my best on your project!
Pat InPaint
@@patinpaint746 thank you sir. My best wishes for you and thank you for your time!