I just changed the intake gasket on my 2008 Corolla (with 50,000 miles ) Toyota part number = 17171-22060 (Gasket, Intake) = orange in color. I wrote down ALL OF THE STEPS I TOOK in dis-assembly and re-assembly, and here they are: - 1) Unscrew the ONE 10mm nut and ONE 10mm bolt holding the engine cover on, then pull up on the 2 plastic pull-tab-nuts holding the rear of the engine cover on, and remove the engine cover. - 2) open up the spring clamp and pull off the vacuum hose from the front of the valve cover. - 3) open up the 2 spring clips holding closed the FILTER BOX, and pull out the air filter. Leave the air filter box cover open and completely separated from the bottom of the air filter box. This way you do no need to disconnect the air duct from the Filter Box). - 4) un-clamp the air duct from the THROTTLE BODY, and pull it off the throttle body. no need to unplug any hoses or wiring from the air duct this way). Roll the filter box cover / air duct backwards/towards-the-rear, 90 degrees. (this gets everything out of the way). - 5) Remove the ‘larger’ vacuum hose from the side of intake manifold. - 6) Remove the ‘smaller’ vacuum hose that is behind the ‘larger’ hose that has just been removed. - 7) Unplug the electrical connector on the rear of the THROTTLE BODY. - 8) Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the THROTTLE BODY onto the intake manifold. ( 10mm ) The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds). Pull the Throttle Body off of the intake manifold, and then push that throttle body to the right, out of the way. Leave the coolant lines connected to the throttle body. - 9) Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake manifold on. ( 12mm socket ) (a) Remove the bolt way down, below the throttle body. (b) Remove the 2 ‘upper’ nuts at the top of the intake manifold. (careful not to drop the nuts). (c) Remove the 3 ‘lower’ bolts, slightly lower on the top of the intake manifold. NOTE: on the most right-side bolt; it is the bolt on the top, not the one under it. The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ). ------------------------------------------------ - 10) Now that the 2 nuts are off, you can flip the wire harness brackets up and out of the way. - 11) Pull the intake manifold away from the engine slightly, to gain access to the small vacuum hose that is located behind the throttle body area. Disconnect this hose from the intake manifold also. (THIS IS THE HOSE THAT GOES TO THE BRAKE BOOSTER ! IT IS EASILY OVERLOOKED WHEN RE-ASSEMBLING.) - 12) Pull away the intake manifold from the engine, then maneuver it out of the engine bay. (Put the intake manifold onto the floor/ground, so you don’t risk dropping it and cracking it.) - 13) Clean the steel surface of the engine with a plastic ruler as a scraper, then with a clean cloth, to make sure no old gasket material is stuck to the steel. - 14) Pull out the old gasket and install the new rubber gasket into the groves where the old gasket came out of. - 15) Push the intake manifold back into the engine bay, and onto the engine, and reverse the steps, starting at step 11). The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ). The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds)
I didn't. I just used an old toothbrush and my fingernails to scrap away any bits of sand/dirt, and then put in the new gasket into the slot in the plastic manifold. I did it for BOTH of my Corollas: a 2006, and a 2008. Fairly easy fix, but be so very careful to re-connect ALL of those vacuum hoses, especially the small one at the REAR of the intake manifold; it is in the back, so its easy to forget to connect that one that goes to the brakes.
Thanks for the write up. Even thought you called it out, I still missed the brake booster hose. Having read this I realized what it was right away when I had no brake boost though. Thanks.
Do you know if you are able to get to the thermostat once the intake is off? I have to do intake gaskets and a thermostat on mine. I know you are suppose to take the alternator off to do it but if I can get to it when I do my gaskets without removing the alternator that would be nice
This guy is a great mechanic! He gets straight to the point and I can tell he's very genuine and would never rip off anyone or over charge. We need more mechanics like him
Nice quick presentation of things to be disconnected. I will have to replace intake manifold gasket on my 03 Corolla soon. I look forward to any future 03-08 Corolla/Matrix or Pontiac Vibe videos. 👍 😎
Once again thank-you for the great video, is got nice and warm here in Toronto and I did replace the gasket, I took my time and it only took me 30 minutes. All I can say hats-off to Toyota a real jewel of a car to work on, even though my 2004 Matrix is 16 years old with 296,000 kms All the bolts came off perfectly unlike the american cars.
My neighbor showed me the intake manifold gasket replacement he did on his Pontiac suv. Good lord. It seemed half the motor was removed. Showed him where my intake was, how easy it was to replace. I love these 1zz-fe engines on a little corolla. 🎉
Thanks for the helpful video! I was able to change the gasket in my 2006 Corolla…As I was replacing the gasket, I realized there was an additional hose connected to the back of the intake manifold that wasn't mentioned in the video.
Hey thanks for uploading this, I am planning to help a friend replace this gasket on his Vibe. Nice to see how it comes apart before I open it up. Great video!
HEY THERE VIEWERS AND WELCOME BACK TO THE SOUTH MAIN AUTO CHANNEL, TODAY WE HAVE A MATRIX AT THE SHOP, IT'S GOT THE BIG 1.8, AND THE MONEY LIGHT IS ON, SO LET'S GET TO IT ! There, fixed it.
really easy job, takes no more than 30 min. You can also just remove the throttle body from the intake if you dont want to disconnect the coolant lines
@@kingmd13 the short of it is you can get away with it a few times but if you commonly work on cars you’ll also know that the one time you don’t change it you’ll have a leak due to it being old, ripped, torn... etc etc Based in my personal experience..
This doesn't show how to put the new gasket on or how to clear the codes afterwards and it doesn't tell me what to use to clean up the intake manifold ?
@Mrs. L ! He showed you, how to remove the gasket. You just it reverse, simple. Nothing else required. To clear code, you require OBD II (CAN compliance - for corolla) reader and eraser.
Razor blade to clean the metal head surface that you remove the manifold from and disconnecting your negative terminal on your battery should reset the engine light.
To clear codes u can disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 min and then reconnect it. Also u will want to do an idle relearn after as disonnecting the battery can cause the idle to go out of wack. Its very easy you must get the vehicle up to operating temp aka drive it til the coolant temp guage is in the middle then park and shut off the car. Remove the key then reinsert the key and turn it to on but do not start it then turn it back off an then back on again put the e brake on and now start the car and put it in drive and leave it on drove for 4-5 min while it relearns the idle. You may notice the rpms fluctuate thats normal. Then thats it your good to go. As far as cleaning the intake before this job I would recommend doing a carbon cleaning to clean out the intake manifold and remove carbon from the intake valves an pistons. This should be done every 30k atleast. I do it once a year to all my vehicles. My mothers 04 corolla s she bought new and now has 165k I did the intake gasket little while back and after removal looked inside the head and the intake valves were clean and had no carbon deposits on them. You also want to clean the throttle body with a throttle body cleaner and a rag. I also recommend cleaning or replacing the pcv valve every 25-30k. When it becomes dirty and clogged you will start having oil ingested into the intake causing deposit build up and poor fuel economy as well as possible pre detonation. When pcv is clogged you will also get sludge build up in the engine and oil leaks from excessive pressure build up. Clean the maf sensor as well when doing this service
Hey guys I crashed my car and theres a hole on the manifold of my celica, does that mean I just do what was in the above video? It's literally thus easy to replace the manifold?
IMPORTANT POINT 1: If you really do need to replace the manifold gasket you really should at least also consider replacing the intake manifold mount gasket that is sandwiched between the the intake manifold and the throttle body. Why? A. the part is even cheaper than the manifold gasket itself. B. they both will cause the same codes when failing. C. If the manifold gasket is bad most likely the other is either not to far behind or already bad. d. You have already done 85%-90% of the work to replace this part if you are replacing the both gaskets at the same time. POINT 2: assuming you are replacing the gasket on 1zzfe engines shown in the video make sure you get the new redesigned part rather than the old design which is still being sold many places. The new design is most often a red/orange color and not black.
@@RagedContinuum there are multiple engines for the 2000 corolla and the different types have different parts. it is a bit annoying. Also if you are looking at different brands it would be natural that there would be multiple parts. For gaskets, I would avoid any other than OEM parts if possible.
@@fusionchef1 I think I figured it out - one is for the manifold, which is thin, and there's another one for the leaf valve, I believe. I will just remove the manifold and keep the throttle body connected to its coolant hoses
South Main Auto Repair HELP!! Today i got po500 code on my 2004 Toyota Matrix. i searched google but no one good solution. Some say abs wheel sensor, some say cluster sensor, some say ecu malfunction. Im confused. Based on your experience, what is likely the cause. Thank you.
Hi SMA/ Eric* I am the original owner of a 1989 Toyota Corolla, @200,000 on her now... very well cared for at this point, and still running. (Trying to keep it that way!!!) However, have had a massive oil leak for years, which I've let go, and am now trying to address, but have had a difficult time getting any straight (let alone honest even?) answers from mechanics out here in the formidable town of Los Angeles. (add to that big bad mechanic wolfs and lone female scenario + old car, lady it ain't worth it,) and I might cry you a river which I'm sure you don't want to hear. But in case you can be of any help: This is what I was initially told: Gasket seals/oil leak major repair needed... (not just an oil pan leak, for example.) Would require all the seals, crank/camshaft, valve cover seals, plus timing belt replacement/tensioners, water pump, etc. etc. all also being changed out /repaired/replaced at the same time- ) and this looking to be upwards of about 5-600 dollars already and more than several hours worth of labor. But now told, that this wouldn't even repair all the leaks, because the leaks are profuse and coming from everywhere and anywhere, including some of the 'freeze plugs' (according to another mechanic I went to for quote today?) and so according to this most recent diagnosis, his indication/quote was that the entire engine/transmission would have to come out, and the whole engine would have to be resealed? and freeze plugs would have to be replaced, current compression/pressure to the engine and down into the crank ? was just too high so the valve cover seals (i.e. the oil leak repair job that I thought I was just needing to get repaired,) wouldn't truly address the 'oil leak' problem according to how he stated it... and it would only start leaking again anyway, because apparently the bigger issue is the entirety of the problem which he described as including the freeze plugs which are also leaking? does this and would this sound about right to you, and would you say that attempting to at least stop the current oil leak, by addressing the actual 'oil leak repair job' per the crank/cam /gasket /valve cover gasket seals and timing belt replacement area/part of the job, wouldn't effectively improve the situation? Or would you concur that in order to truly stop all the leaks and not cause any further damage or fix the oil leaks just to cause more problems by repairing some of the leaks and seals and then causing pressure to new areas and then perhaps causing even more problems, (ie. no engine problems please!?) I really should address the leaking freeze plug issues all too, as the main and overall 'oil and every thing leaking' repair? Any advice? Would be much obliged from/by any truthful knowledge coming my way.
Great video I test mine the same way and guess what intake leak at cylinder 1, as a temporarily fix I cleaned the area of the leak started the engine and then I Brushed on engine oil over the leaky area and the vacuum sucked in the oil and sealed the leak. It's been a week now and no codes. If I get another code I may brush on gear oil this may last longer and I will replace the gasket when the weather gets warmer. Very cold her in Toronto Feb/18 2020. The gaskets are cheap always go with Toyota or Fel-Pro bet they will be very close to same price
I replaced my intake manifold gasket by unbolting the intake manifold and using a pick I was able to get the old gasket out and I was able to work the new gasket in the grooves of the intake manifold. Bolted it all back together and didn't have to disconnect any hoses or cables to throttlebody. I did remove the radiator fan shroud assembly for more room for my hands. Did the job within an hour and my fuel trims immediately reduced but I think I still have another issue causing my lean condition as the code returned once months later.
I have to ask - why didn't you just disconnect the throttle body and move it away to the side, rather than unhook all of the hoses from it? That way you wouldn't have to worry about the coolant hoses. (pinching them, possibly cracking, etc). I'm chasing a P0171 right now.
the Vibe has been sitting, trying to decide what to do with it. Thanks, it sounds like a Grand Prix has a decent motor and something I can fix if need be!!
Hello, thanks for your video. I also did all those tests and more and I can't find a solution, but now I'm going to try the one that you. made. I still ask you, otherwise it's the intake gasket, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8 liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillates between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well, we took out the carburetor, total cleaning including the MAF sensor of the filter, I clarify that you cannot take out the IAC valve to clean but the carburetor body was immersed in non-abrasive remover liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and were spotless. We put everything together and it starts doing the same fault. Then I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. The same if I disconnect the PCV valve and it idles at 200 rpm until it shuts off. Could it be a fault in the EGR vacuum valve or Crankshaft Sensor and cams (CKP and CMP)?
My toyota hilux vvti is loosing power more especially when driving uphill or even pulling a small trailer. The manifold was removed before when I fitted the water bypass pipe so, the mechanic thought it might be a bad gasket. I bought one and fitted it but, the car doesn't pickup the way it should still. It has a very slow response.
Any need to bleed air from the cooling system after doing this? Seems like clamping off and removing the coolant lines to the throttle body as you suggest would allow air into the system.
I have an 04 Corolla. Was just wondering if this could throw some air sensor codes at me on an obd2 scanner. I know for a fact I need to replace the intake gasket.
just a quick question about the intake ports on the engine block. the three sort rectangular ports between the intake ports, what are they meant for as i would like to know what their purpose is .. cheers :)
i installed the gasket but not sure if I installed correctly. It was a Fel-Pro gasket and had a blue lining one side. I placed the blue side facing the manifold. Is that correct or does it matter?
Hey I had the same question as you did. Search on google: "Fel-Pro which side is up" and there's a good article that explains how to install them on which side. For the intake gasket question, I found this: "In some cases, head gaskets or intake gaskets won’t have any directional indicators on them. They may have Blue Stripe coating, or be a different color. In these cases, it does not matter which direction the gasket is installed. If it were crucial it would be marked."
I have a 2005 Pontiac Vibe and it has been repaired 3 times for overheating and it did it again after driving 2 hours. This time it was diagnosed as having a exhaust leak getting into the coolant passages and causing a pocket of air that won't allow coolant to flow. I just had a new thermostat and fan installed for overheating and did it again. Any advice? Thx, Joe
+joe matthews Get a Grand Prix, I have 2, a 01 GTP Coupe with 224,000 miles on it. I also have a 2006 GT, both are supercharged, I did the intake gaskets and elbows myself on both, other than routine maintenance I expect 300,000 with the 01. Also Vapor Lock is a very common thing these days. but in the Vibes case it does sound to me like its a warped head or head gasket, probably due to repeat over-heating. Anyways I ordered that flushing tool Eric, EXTREME FLUSHING! x2. :)
@@BassheadGTP I relize this is a couple years old but its the intake manifold which the egr eventually burns a hole allowing coolant into the intake passages and will fool people into thinking its a head gasket the new intake will be a better design and includes instructions to keep this from reoccurring hope this helps this is only for the gm vehicles not for toyota
Awesome video. I will be buying a gasket hopefully tomorrow and having a go at it. I do have the p0171 code right now but i am also getting error codes p1300, 1305,1310,1315 and they say ignition circuit malfunction. Now, i know they have to do with the ignition coils and I have recently replaced them. My question is, do you think that because of error code p0171 it will mess with the ignition coils too? Should I replace them again?
How do you diagnose it? My vibe randomly idles rough. Especially in gear at a light or stop sign. I sprayed it downd with carb cleaner but it didn't change the idle. I already replaced the maf sensor. The car is an 06 but it only has 40,000 miles
check engine light. but in your case, definitely check your spark plugs, clean out your TB, check for vacuum leaks, check your fuel trims, and other small things. it can be assortment of problems and usually they're inexpensive things that should be cleaned/replaced anyways with time
An air leak cased the 'Check Engine' light to come on. When the error codes were read it was a P0171 error code. The car has only 46,000 miles on it so it cannot be the oxygen sensor or mass airflow sensor, not with a car that has so little miles on it. So I changed the intake gasket, the used a code reader to get rid of the error codes. No new 'check engine' light so far.
The bolts holding the manifold on wouldn’t budge! I got the one in the middle but the outer ones wouldn’t move and I didn’t want to strip them. Any recommendations?
Hello, I did it and it worked but after I finished tightening everything and plugged all the hoses back in, the car idles very low and is about to stall out. Is there something else to do. I mean since there is no leak any more the throttle should be more open than before at idle. I unplued the battery to reset everything, it is enough? thanks in advance,
Well that is possible if the leak is severe enough. If you are doing the work your self it is a really inexpensive "guess" if you will. This is a a super common problem on these cars. Do you have a scan tool or a smoke machine or have lend of them from someone? Also please don't forget to subscribe to stay up to date with all of our current videos and like us on Facebook!
South Main Auto Repair Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and replaced the gasket yesterday, and after clearing CEL, the O2 sensor test passed in about 15 minutes. The last several times it took about 5 days for this to pass. So it is possible this fixed my issue, but only time will tell (as it only has thrown the P0133 a couple times in about 5 months). As luck would have it, the light came on as I was driving to have a state inspection done, which derailed that for the time being. I do have a scan tool and monitored the short term fuel trim as you did in a previous video. There seems to be a little bit of improvement. The gasket was only $4.99 at autozone, so as you said, it's a cheap guess. Again, thanks for the reply and the nice video.
South Main Auto Repair No, I don't currently have it. It has come on 2-3 times in about 5 months. Each time I have cleared the code and it would not come back on for a while. So, it's one of those issues that I will have to drive it for a while before I am certain it will not come back on.
THANK YOU Super Amazing. I need to change out the Knock sensor. Has anyone been able to change the knock sensor from the bottom without removing the intake???
hello all! does anyone know what tools are needed for this job? I have basic socket set / screw drivers but am hesitant to start it until I know for sure that I can complete the whole job. Cheers
All I used was a socket set and screwdrivers, and a pair of pliers to grab the spring clamp on some of the hoses. And a bright flashlight if you work in a dim garage like I do.
on top of what "honesty counts" says i would suggest you make sure you have extensions for your sockets and a flex shaft magnetic pick up tool in case you fumble a nut or screw and drop the thing and need to fish it out. (you will regret not having you when this happens)
Just did this on my 2004 Corolla and now it's running like crap, throwing misfire codes and the brake pedal will not depress.....WTH happened??? Ideas, fellas???
how do I check the lines? 03 Rolla is giving me misfire codes ,po420s , shakey idle , almost sounds like a motorcycle near my pulley when I accelerate it gets louder
If your power brakes stop working after using this technique than another little hose broke loose behind the manifold. Took us a day to figure this out 🤦♂️
No spam or hate comments?! 🤣 Lmao - you never get anything like that online!! Anyway..... I have a po171 code on my Pontiac vibe. I'm hoping it's something like this.
Thanks South Main Auto! I recently followed along to your video and I just uploaded one myself I did of this fix with some up-close shots for anyone else needing a quick step-by-step overview: th-cam.com/video/m4W51gK7PCU/w-d-xo.html
a local 'mobile mechanic' will replace my gasket with a Fel-Pro one after 275K miles in my 2000 Corolla I have driven 20 years ... it is due for some problems and the rough running and poor acceleration seem to match the problems noted ... a 1-time job for an experienced guy and pay his fee. It is NOT a DIY task, in my view since most fellows are NOT handy with tools and will NOT know what to do from start to finish and the car will not run once disassembled. Hire a skilled mechanic since it is a one-time task and do NOT do it yourself, in my view.
Talk about getting to the point, with no BS or history of how your family came over on the Mayflower. You're the best!
I just changed the intake gasket on my 2008 Corolla (with 50,000 miles )
Toyota part number = 17171-22060 (Gasket, Intake) = orange in color.
I wrote down ALL OF THE STEPS I TOOK in dis-assembly and re-assembly, and here they are:
- 1) Unscrew the ONE 10mm nut and ONE 10mm bolt holding the engine cover on, then pull up on the 2 plastic pull-tab-nuts holding the rear of the engine cover on, and remove the engine cover.
- 2) open up the spring clamp and pull off the vacuum hose from the front of the valve cover.
- 3) open up the 2 spring clips holding closed the FILTER BOX, and pull out the air filter. Leave the air filter box cover open and completely separated from the bottom of the air filter box. This way you do no need to disconnect the air duct from the Filter Box).
- 4) un-clamp the air duct from the THROTTLE BODY, and pull it off the throttle body. no need to unplug any hoses or wiring from the air duct this way). Roll the filter box cover / air duct backwards/towards-the-rear, 90 degrees. (this gets everything out of the way).
- 5) Remove the ‘larger’ vacuum hose from the side of intake manifold.
- 6) Remove the ‘smaller’ vacuum hose that is behind the ‘larger’ hose that has just been removed.
- 7) Unplug the electrical connector on the rear of the THROTTLE BODY.
- 8) Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the THROTTLE BODY onto the intake manifold. ( 10mm )
The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds).
Pull the Throttle Body off of the intake manifold, and then push that throttle body to the right, out of the way. Leave the coolant lines connected to the throttle body.
- 9) Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake manifold on. ( 12mm socket )
(a) Remove the bolt way down, below the throttle body.
(b) Remove the 2 ‘upper’ nuts at the top of the intake manifold. (careful not to drop the nuts).
(c) Remove the 3 ‘lower’ bolts, slightly lower on the top of the intake manifold.
NOTE: on the most right-side bolt; it is the bolt on the top, not the one under it.
The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ).
------------------------------------------------
- 10) Now that the 2 nuts are off, you can flip the wire harness brackets up and out of the way.
- 11) Pull the intake manifold away from the engine slightly, to gain access to the small vacuum hose that is located behind the throttle body area. Disconnect this hose from the intake manifold also.
(THIS IS THE HOSE THAT GOES TO THE BRAKE BOOSTER ! IT IS EASILY OVERLOOKED WHEN RE-ASSEMBLING.)
- 12) Pull away the intake manifold from the engine, then maneuver it out of the engine bay.
(Put the intake manifold onto the floor/ground, so you don’t risk dropping it and cracking it.)
- 13) Clean the steel surface of the engine with a plastic ruler as a scraper, then with a clean cloth, to make sure no old gasket material is stuck to the steel.
- 14) Pull out the old gasket and install the new rubber gasket into the groves where the old gasket came out of.
- 15) Push the intake manifold back into the engine bay, and onto the engine, and reverse the steps, starting at step 11).
The intake manifold bolts should be tightened to 22 ft-lbs (foot pounds ).
The 2 bolts / 2 nuts holding the throttle body are ONLY tightened to 80 in-lbs (inch pounds)
Do you have to put gasket sealer to the grooves before you put the gasket back in?
I didn't. I just used an old toothbrush and my fingernails to scrap away any bits of sand/dirt, and then put in the new gasket into the slot in the plastic manifold. I did it for BOTH of my Corollas: a 2006, and a 2008. Fairly easy fix, but be so very careful to re-connect ALL of those vacuum hoses, especially the small one at the REAR of the intake manifold; it is in the back, so its easy to forget to connect that one that goes to the brakes.
Thanks for the write up. Even thought you called it out, I still missed the brake booster hose. Having read this I realized what it was right away when I had no brake boost though. Thanks.
Do you know if you are able to get to the thermostat once the intake is off? I have to do intake gaskets and a thermostat on mine. I know you are suppose to take the alternator off to do it but if I can get to it when I do my gaskets without removing the alternator that would be nice
THANK YOU! I have a 2008 and was wondering.
This guy is a great mechanic! He gets straight to the point and I can tell he's very genuine and would never rip off anyone or over charge. We need more mechanics like him
This was great. Thank you for this. I color coded the hoses with stickers to dummy proof it. Didnt want to second guess where each hose went.
Nice quick presentation of things to be disconnected. I will have to replace intake manifold gasket on my 03 Corolla soon.
I look forward to any future 03-08 Corolla/Matrix or Pontiac Vibe videos. 👍
😎
Once again thank-you for the great video, is got nice and warm here in Toronto and I did replace the gasket, I took my time and it only took me 30 minutes. All I can say hats-off to Toyota a real jewel of a car to work on, even though my 2004 Matrix is 16 years old with 296,000 kms All the bolts came off perfectly unlike the american cars.
Thank you for demonstrating this process. It was extremely helpful.
My neighbor showed me the intake manifold gasket replacement he did on his Pontiac suv. Good lord. It seemed half the motor was removed. Showed him where my intake was, how easy it was to replace. I love these 1zz-fe engines on a little corolla. 🎉
Great description made it easy as pie. I was quoted 200$ to do this at the shop, they said it would take 2 hours
In Canada this would be at least a $500 job. Who know what Toyota would charge.
@@edgenet1 yeah Canadian dollars aren't worth as much.
Bro I went to Toyota and was quote 650 for this and I had to leave my car overnight.
You have given me the confidence to do the job myself...Thanks!!
Thank you for posting I just fixed this issue in under an hour saved a ton not going to the mechanic!
Thanks for the helpful video! I was able to change the gasket in my 2006 Corolla…As I was replacing the gasket, I realized there was an additional hose connected to the back of the intake manifold that wasn't mentioned in the video.
Ahh busted...lol yeah sorry I forgot to mention that one down by the throttle body right?
@@SouthMainAuto FAIL
@@SouthMainAuto Any ability to add this to the description? I noticed the same thing when doing mine and that would have saved a big head ache
Hey thanks for uploading this, I am planning to help a friend replace this gasket on his Vibe. Nice to see how it comes apart before I open it up. Great video!
HEY THERE VIEWERS AND WELCOME BACK TO THE SOUTH MAIN AUTO CHANNEL,
TODAY WE HAVE A MATRIX AT THE SHOP, IT'S GOT THE BIG 1.8, AND THE MONEY LIGHT IS ON, SO LET'S GET TO IT !
There, fixed it.
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to change it out with no problems
really easy job, takes no more than 30 min. You can also just remove the throttle body from the intake if you dont want to disconnect the coolant lines
ab30494 that's what I'm going to do that is unbolt the throttle body part
Just don’t forget to replace the throttle body gasket while you are there, wouldn’t want to create another vacuum leak.
@@083rt why would that create a leak all of a sudden??
@@kingmd13 the short of it is you can get away with it a few times but if you commonly work on cars you’ll also know that the one time you don’t change it you’ll have a leak due to it being old, ripped, torn... etc etc
Based in my personal experience..
This was a great video and still good today; thank you!
Just a thought if you still have the original thermostat this may be a good time to replace full access with the manifold out
Doing this job today,,,,, you certainly grew into the role over the last 8 years,,, you actually look kinda nervous. Thanks for the vid though.
sir, you are so helpful beyond belief. have a good day
Long time subscriber....was this one of your first videos! lol
This doesn't show how to put the new gasket on or how to clear the codes afterwards and it doesn't tell me what to use to clean up the intake manifold ?
@Mrs. L ! He showed you, how to remove the gasket. You just it reverse, simple. Nothing else required.
To clear code, you require OBD II (CAN compliance - for corolla) reader and eraser.
Razor blade to clean the metal head surface that you remove the manifold from and disconnecting your negative terminal on your battery should reset the engine light.
To clear codes u can disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 min and then reconnect it. Also u will want to do an idle relearn after as disonnecting the battery can cause the idle to go out of wack. Its very easy you must get the vehicle up to operating temp aka drive it til the coolant temp guage is in the middle then park and shut off the car. Remove the key then reinsert the key and turn it to on but do not start it then turn it back off an then back on again put the e brake on and now start the car and put it in drive and leave it on drove for 4-5 min while it relearns the idle. You may notice the rpms fluctuate thats normal. Then thats it your good to go. As far as cleaning the intake before this job I would recommend doing a carbon cleaning to clean out the intake manifold and remove carbon from the intake valves an pistons. This should be done every 30k atleast. I do it once a year to all my vehicles. My mothers 04 corolla s she bought new and now has 165k I did the intake gasket little while back and after removal looked inside the head and the intake valves were clean and had no carbon deposits on them. You also want to clean the throttle body with a throttle body cleaner and a rag. I also recommend cleaning or replacing the pcv valve every 25-30k. When it becomes dirty and clogged you will start having oil ingested into the intake causing deposit build up and poor fuel economy as well as possible pre detonation. When pcv is clogged you will also get sludge build up in the engine and oil leaks from excessive pressure build up. Clean the maf sensor as well when doing this service
Hey guys I crashed my car and theres a hole on the manifold of my celica, does that mean I just do what was in the above video? It's literally thus easy to replace the manifold?
The guy didn't walk me to the bus stop in the morning for school or make me waffles. What more do you want?
IMPORTANT POINT 1: If you really do need to replace the manifold gasket you really should at least also consider replacing the intake manifold mount gasket that is sandwiched between the the intake manifold and the throttle body. Why? A. the part is even cheaper than the manifold gasket itself. B. they both will cause the same codes when failing. C. If the manifold gasket is bad most likely the other is either not to far behind or already bad. d. You have already done 85%-90% of the work to replace this part if you are replacing the both gaskets at the same time.
POINT 2: assuming you are replacing the gasket on 1zzfe engines shown in the video make sure you get the new redesigned part rather than the old design which is still being sold many places. The new design is most often a red/orange color and not black.
Do you have a link to the red/orange gasket you're talking about?
fusionchef1 ... Or Just Go To The DealerShip and get it that’s what I did with my valve cover gasket so I knew I had the right one!
I want to replace the gaskets on a 2000 corolla and rockauto has two types of gaskets for sale - what gives? help
@@RagedContinuum there are multiple engines for the 2000 corolla and the different types have different parts. it is a bit annoying. Also if you are looking at different brands it would be natural that there would be multiple parts. For gaskets, I would avoid any other than OEM parts if possible.
@@fusionchef1 I think I figured it out - one is for the manifold, which is thin, and there's another one for the leaf valve, I believe. I will just remove the manifold and keep the throttle body connected to its coolant hoses
THANKS Very helpful. We all appreciate your work.
rotcataergeht Pretty old video of mine , glad you still found it helpful :)
South Main Auto Repair HELP!! Today i got po500 code on my 2004 Toyota Matrix. i searched google but no one good solution. Some say abs wheel sensor, some say cluster sensor, some say ecu malfunction. Im confused. Based on your experience, what is likely the cause. Thank you.
South Main Auto Repair My second question: My Matrix DMV renewal is due soon, will my car pass smog with ABS and Brake light on??
in NY it would i don't know about where u live
never ran across that code on a matrix yet
Hi SMA/ Eric* I am the original owner of a 1989 Toyota Corolla, @200,000 on her now... very well cared for at this point, and still running. (Trying to keep it that way!!!) However, have had a massive oil leak for years, which I've let go, and am now trying to address, but have had a difficult time getting any straight (let alone honest even?) answers from mechanics out here in the formidable town of Los Angeles. (add to that big bad mechanic wolfs and lone female scenario + old car, lady it ain't worth it,) and I might cry you a river which I'm sure you don't want to hear. But in case you can be of any help: This is what I was initially told: Gasket seals/oil leak major repair needed... (not just an oil pan leak, for example.) Would require all the seals, crank/camshaft, valve cover seals, plus timing belt replacement/tensioners, water pump, etc. etc. all also being changed out /repaired/replaced at the same time- ) and this looking to be upwards of about 5-600 dollars already and more than several hours worth of labor. But now told, that this wouldn't even repair all the leaks, because the leaks are profuse and coming from everywhere and anywhere, including some of the 'freeze plugs' (according to another mechanic I went to for quote today?) and so according to this most recent diagnosis, his indication/quote was that the entire engine/transmission would have to come out, and the whole engine would have to be resealed? and freeze plugs would have to be replaced, current compression/pressure to the engine and down into the crank ? was just too high so the valve cover seals (i.e. the oil leak repair job that I thought I was just needing to get repaired,) wouldn't truly address the 'oil leak' problem according to how he stated it... and it would only start leaking again anyway, because apparently the bigger issue is the entirety of the problem which he described as including the freeze plugs which are also leaking? does this and would this sound about right to you, and would you say that attempting to at least stop the current oil leak, by addressing the actual 'oil leak repair job' per the crank/cam /gasket /valve cover gasket seals and timing belt replacement area/part of the job, wouldn't effectively improve the situation? Or would you concur that in order to truly stop all the leaks and not cause any further damage or fix the oil leaks just to cause more problems by repairing some of the leaks and seals and then causing pressure to new areas and then perhaps causing even more problems, (ie. no engine problems please!?) I really should address the leaking freeze plug issues all too, as the main and overall 'oil and every thing leaking' repair? Any advice? Would be much obliged from/by any truthful knowledge coming my way.
Great video I test mine the same way and guess what intake leak at cylinder 1, as a temporarily fix I cleaned the area of the leak started the engine and then I Brushed on engine oil over the leaky area and the vacuum sucked in the oil and sealed the leak. It's been a week now and no codes. If I get another code I may brush on gear oil this may last longer and I will replace the gasket when the weather gets warmer. Very cold her in Toronto Feb/18 2020. The gaskets are cheap always go with Toyota or Fel-Pro bet they will be very close to same price
Always replace the throttle body gasket with the intake manifold gasket
hello . Why is that ?
1ZZ-FE. Good to know this can cause lean codes.
Thanks man you just saved me like two hundred bucks
Does this intake gasket wear out and cause a bank one to lean code? Also will this gasket leak oil down the side/front of the engine?
I replaced my intake manifold gasket by unbolting the intake manifold and using a pick I was able to get the old gasket out and I was able to work the new gasket in the grooves of the intake manifold. Bolted it all back together and didn't have to disconnect any hoses or cables to throttlebody. I did remove the radiator fan shroud assembly for more room for my hands. Did the job within an hour and my fuel trims immediately reduced but I think I still have another issue causing my lean condition as the code returned once months later.
I have to ask - why didn't you just disconnect the throttle body and move it away to the side, rather than unhook all of the hoses from it? That way you wouldn't have to worry about the coolant hoses. (pinching them, possibly cracking, etc). I'm chasing a P0171 right now.
very nice quick and concise.
the Vibe has been sitting, trying to decide what to do with it. Thanks, it sounds like a Grand Prix has a decent motor and something I can fix if need be!!
Hello, thanks for your video. I also did all those tests and more and I can't find a solution, but now I'm going to try the one that you. made. I still ask you, otherwise it's the intake gasket, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8 liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillates between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well, we took out the carburetor, total cleaning including the MAF sensor of the filter, I clarify that you cannot take out the IAC valve to clean but the carburetor body was immersed in non-abrasive remover liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and were spotless. We put everything together and it starts doing the same fault. Then I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. The same if I disconnect the PCV valve and it idles at 200 rpm until it shuts off. Could it be a fault in the EGR vacuum valve or Crankshaft Sensor and cams (CKP and CMP)?
I spray around my matrix manifold brake spray fluid and from one manifold bolt bobbles Tatarstan to come out, I want to know what to do about it?
My toyota hilux vvti is loosing power more especially when driving uphill or even pulling a small trailer. The manifold was removed before when I fitted the water bypass pipe so, the mechanic thought it might be a bad gasket. I bought one and fitted it but, the car doesn't pickup the way it should still. It has a very slow response.
Any need to bleed air from the cooling system after doing this? Seems like clamping off and removing the coolant lines to the throttle body as you suggest would allow air into the system.
I have an 04 Corolla. Was just wondering if this could throw some air sensor codes at me on an obd2 scanner. I know for a fact I need to replace the intake gasket.
Thank you! Very to the point and informative.
just a quick question about the intake ports on the engine block. the three sort rectangular ports between the intake ports, what are they meant for as i would like to know what their purpose is .. cheers :)
So I’m replacing my dipstick tube and I need to take the intake off to get in there. Do I have to replace my gasket when I take it off???
Help! I unhooked the hoses from the throttle body but it looks like coolant coming out!? Is this normal?
i installed the gasket but not sure if I installed correctly. It was a Fel-Pro gasket and had a blue lining one side. I placed the blue side facing the manifold. Is that correct or does it matter?
Hey I had the same question as you did. Search on google: "Fel-Pro which side is up" and there's a good article that explains how to install them on which side. For the intake gasket question, I found this: "In some cases, head gaskets or intake gaskets won’t have any directional indicators on them. They may have Blue Stripe coating, or be a different color. In these cases, it does not matter which direction the gasket is installed. If it were crucial it would be marked."
Thanks. I appreciate the information
I did this and now my corolla is idling crazy. Also my brakes are very stiff. What happened.
I have a 2005 Pontiac Vibe and it has been repaired 3 times for overheating and it did it again after driving 2 hours. This time it was diagnosed as having a exhaust leak getting into the coolant passages and causing a pocket of air that won't allow coolant to flow. I just had a new thermostat and fan installed for overheating and did it again.
Any advice? Thx, Joe
+joe matthews Sounds like a headgasket to me.
Find a 4" core radiator Joe! BB
+joe matthews Get a Grand Prix, I have 2, a 01 GTP Coupe with 224,000 miles on it. I also have a 2006 GT, both are supercharged, I did the intake gaskets and elbows myself on both, other than routine maintenance I expect 300,000 with the 01. Also Vapor Lock is a very common thing these days. but in the Vibes case it does sound to me like its a warped head or head gasket, probably due to repeat over-heating. Anyways I ordered that flushing tool Eric, EXTREME FLUSHING! x2. :)
@@BassheadGTP I relize this is a couple years old but its the intake manifold which the egr eventually burns a hole allowing coolant into the intake passages and will fool people into thinking its a head gasket the new intake will be a better design and includes instructions to keep this from reoccurring hope this helps this is only for the gm vehicles not for toyota
Awesome video. I will be buying a gasket hopefully tomorrow and having a go at it. I do have the p0171 code right now but i am also getting error codes p1300, 1305,1310,1315 and they say ignition circuit malfunction. Now, i know they have to do with the ignition coils and I have recently replaced them. My question is, do you think that because of error code p0171 it will mess with the ignition coils too? Should I replace them again?
How do you diagnose it? My vibe randomly idles rough. Especially in gear at a light or stop sign. I sprayed it downd with carb cleaner but it didn't change the idle. I already replaced the maf sensor. The car is an 06 but it only has 40,000 miles
check engine light.
but in your case, definitely check your spark plugs, clean out your TB, check for vacuum leaks, check your fuel trims, and other small things. it can be assortment of problems and usually they're inexpensive things that should be cleaned/replaced anyways with time
Thank you for this video. Is it a good to idea to rub clean engine oil over the new intake manifold gasket before installing?
Boy Joe... never really heard of that before. Never had a sealing problem either installing them dry.
No
where is the 2009 Pontiac vibe 1.8 l code reading port?
Hello there, what was the reason to replace the manifold gasket, was it oil consumption related , air leak or some other issues. .?
KNAC 105.5 PURE ROCK my guess is a rough idle. Come -15 and one would feel the car reving inconsistently at a stop.
An air leak cased the 'Check Engine' light to come on. When the error codes were read it was a P0171 error code. The car has only 46,000 miles on it so it cannot be the oxygen sensor or mass airflow sensor, not with a car that has so little miles on it. So I changed the intake gasket, the used a code reader to get rid of the error codes. No new 'check engine' light so far.
The bolts holding the manifold on wouldn’t budge! I got the one in the middle but the outer ones wouldn’t move and I didn’t want to strip them. Any recommendations?
Sarah Wills Use pb blaster
No silicon seal needed?
Hello, I did it and it worked but after I finished tightening everything and
plugged all the hoses back in, the car idles very low and is about to
stall out. Is there something else to do. I mean since there is no leak any more the throttle should be more open than before at idle. I unplued the battery to reset everything, it is enough? thanks in advance,
Computer might need to "re-learn" the best idle speed
Make sure all hoses, especially to the air intake air connected secure...
Left one off by accident once and it idles horrible like that
Do you know how long it's take to replace manifold on 2007 yaris sedan?
Thanks for the video.
That man said, "and ship it" lol
Thanks for the video. I am planning on replacing mine. Do you think that a bad gasket could cause P0133 (upstream O2 slow response)?
Well that is possible if the leak is severe enough. If you are doing the work your self it is a really inexpensive "guess" if you will. This is a a super common problem on these cars. Do you have a scan tool or a smoke machine or have lend of them from someone?
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South Main Auto Repair Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and replaced the gasket yesterday, and after clearing CEL, the O2 sensor test passed in about 15 minutes. The last several times it took about 5 days for this to pass. So it is possible this fixed my issue, but only time will tell (as it only has thrown the P0133 a couple times in about 5 months). As luck would have it, the light came on as I was driving to have a state inspection done, which derailed that for the time being. I do have a scan tool and monitored the short term fuel trim as you did in a previous video. There seems to be a little bit of improvement. The gasket was only $4.99 at autozone, so as you said, it's a cheap guess. Again, thanks for the reply and the nice video.
You welcome! So currently you still have a P0133 still if I understand that right?
South Main Auto Repair No, I don't currently have it. It has come on 2-3 times in about 5 months. Each time I have cleared the code and it would not come back on for a while. So, it's one of those issues that I will have to drive it for a while before I am certain it will not come back on.
Oh I see. Well I hope this simple fix takes care of it for you!
The process was a little different on my 03 corolla s, 5 speed
Do you have to disconnect the battery terminal when removing the intake manifold? Great video sir :)!
@Mark E. ! No! doesn't require downing power.
short and sweet. no bs and stupid music background
Did you have to drain the coolant first?
@thewildwhisper ! Coolant draining not required.
THANK YOU Super Amazing. I need to change out the Knock sensor. Has anyone been able to change the knock sensor from the bottom without removing the intake???
hello all! does anyone know what tools are needed for this job? I have basic socket set / screw drivers but am hesitant to start it until I know for sure that I can complete the whole job. Cheers
All I used was a socket set and screwdrivers, and a pair of pliers to grab the spring clamp on some of the hoses.
And a bright flashlight if you work in a dim garage like I do.
on top of what "honesty counts" says i would suggest you make sure you have extensions for your sockets and a flex shaft magnetic pick up tool in case you fumble a nut or screw and drop the thing and need to fish it out. (you will regret not having you when this happens)
fusionchef1 thanks a lot! I live in Canada and have had this issue all winter ..it sucks. I'll let you know how it goes.
Do you have to put gasket sealer to the groove before you put the gasket back in?
@Tuan Anh ! No sealant required. This is just an air intake manifold.
Wow how easy, thanks man
Disconnect battery first?
@Chris Cook! Power downing not required.
Cool, that looks even simpler than turning on my wife 😆
What was the code?
I've done that about three times already Idk what else to do except maybe replace the whole manifold
Does it show up as a leak there? Are you smoke testing it or what procedure are you doing? Can you explain just a little further?
Just did this on my 2004 Corolla and now it's running like crap, throwing misfire codes and the brake pedal will not depress.....WTH happened??? Ideas, fellas???
Sounds like you didn't hook up a vacuum line
@@army63b79 yep, that turned out to be it.
@@johngrande3426 awesome. I'm getting ready to do mine this weekend. 06 matrix.
how do I check the lines? 03 Rolla is giving me misfire codes ,po420s , shakey idle , almost sounds like a motorcycle near my pulley when I accelerate it gets louder
thank you so much sir!!
joe
If your power brakes stop working after using this technique than another little hose broke loose behind the manifold. Took us a day to figure this out 🤦♂️
Ah, i am having thos problem, will check that. Thanks!
There is one vacuum hose he missed behind the throttle body!
thank youf for this...
@pei broker ! Coolant draining not required.
Ty
No spam or hate comments?! 🤣
Lmao - you never get anything like that online!!
Anyway..... I have a po171 code on my Pontiac vibe. I'm hoping it's something like this.
I did this and now I'm getting a p0505
Damn! 🍻
I replaced the gasket now idles very low
Clean throttle body, make sure MFA is clean
7 years later you did the exhaust too haha
Easy fix!
Thanks South Main Auto! I recently followed along to your video and I just uploaded one myself I did of this fix with some up-close shots for anyone else needing a quick step-by-step overview: th-cam.com/video/m4W51gK7PCU/w-d-xo.html
ok found how to fix
a local 'mobile mechanic' will replace my gasket with a Fel-Pro one after 275K miles in my 2000 Corolla I have driven 20 years ... it is due for some problems and the rough running and poor acceleration seem to match the problems noted ... a 1-time job for an experienced guy and pay his fee. It is NOT a DIY task, in my view since most fellows are NOT handy with tools and will NOT know what to do from start to finish and the car will not run once disassembled. Hire a skilled mechanic since it is a one-time task and do NOT do it yourself, in my view.
this aint for the newbie