Yes it will, and it's not a good idea. Read on iffin' you dare... I would strongly suggest you ignore that advice and use a dynamic rope, if you rig it correctly the climbing rope will not rub against the rock at all, regardless of stretch. This is another case of placing the rock protection above safety. If it's come down to a decision between proper climbing safety and protecting the rock, then frankly you shouldn't climb there at all. The reality is there's no good reason to use a static climbing rope and plenty of good reasons to use a dynamic rope. There have been discussions (between mostly non-physicists) about this online and the general consensus is this: anyone who recommends using static (or semi-static) rope for belaying is lacking some basic knowledge of physics. The whole point of dynamic rope is to absorb the shock in the system, if you remove it, you lose 95% of your shock absorber. Besides being more painful, this also transfers the shock load to the anchor instead. Their argument is that dynamic rope will stretch and rub against the rock, a pretty weird argument if you ask me. First of all, the belay master point should be hanging over the lip anyway, meaning unless you're on a slab, the climbing rope won't even contact the rock, certainly not while under load. The most important place to think about rock damage is continuous abrasion at the top, see for yourself if you haven't already the rope marks gouged along the lip. That damage was caused by prolonged abrasion from the rope sliding through the master point on belay, especially when lowering off. That is the place where care should be taken, and we achieve this by using a static rope or sling and some carpet under it (to extend the master point over the cliff edge). As a matter of fact, a less dynamic climbing rope will impart more force to the static anchor (the only part in contact with the rock), so if we're concerned about abrasion, the reality is that a dynamic climbing rope will *reduce* the wear on the rock provided that the anchor is built correctly. There is no good reason for anyone to ever recommend using static rope for climbing, in fact I'm sure the rope manufacturers would have something to say if they saw this video. Tl;dr: The wear on the rocks was caused by shitty anchor building, not by dynamic rope. /rant
From the Southern Sandstone website: "Whilst it’s a personal choice of the climber as to which rope they use, we advise to focus on the other very important protocols such as using correct rigging (long sling and a karabiner hanging over the edge), always topping out and not lowering off to safeguard the precious rock." They simply acknowledge the reasons why some climbers choose to use static rope, but notice that they do not recommend it. Instead pointing out (as I have) that good anchor building is faaaaaar more important and there are potential dangers to using static climbing rope. www.southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk/p/equipment.html
David Wright This video is specifically for Southern Sandstone in the UK. These are short cliffs that are easily eroded and static ropes are used for top roping here.
Love the protective hose ....saves the sandstone ....and your ropes .
Hi, thanks for the video. I'm new to climbing outside and have a question. If using static rope, if the climber falls wont it be very Jarring?
Yes it will, and it's not a good idea. Read on iffin' you dare...
I would strongly suggest you ignore that advice and use a dynamic rope, if you rig it correctly the climbing rope will not rub against the rock at all, regardless of stretch. This is another case of placing the rock protection above safety. If it's come down to a decision between proper climbing safety and protecting the rock, then frankly you shouldn't climb there at all. The reality is there's no good reason to use a static climbing rope and plenty of good reasons to use a dynamic rope. There have been discussions (between mostly non-physicists) about this online and the general consensus is this: anyone who recommends using static (or semi-static) rope for belaying is lacking some basic knowledge of physics. The whole point of dynamic rope is to absorb the shock in the system, if you remove it, you lose 95% of your shock absorber. Besides being more painful, this also transfers the shock load to the anchor instead. Their argument is that dynamic rope will stretch and rub against the rock, a pretty weird argument if you ask me. First of all, the belay master point should be hanging over the lip anyway, meaning unless you're on a slab, the climbing rope won't even contact the rock, certainly not while under load. The most important place to think about rock damage is continuous abrasion at the top, see for yourself if you haven't already the rope marks gouged along the lip. That damage was caused by prolonged abrasion from the rope sliding through the master point on belay, especially when lowering off. That is the place where care should be taken, and we achieve this by using a static rope or sling and some carpet under it (to extend the master point over the cliff edge). As a matter of fact, a less dynamic climbing rope will impart more force to the static anchor (the only part in contact with the rock), so if we're concerned about abrasion, the reality is that a dynamic climbing rope will *reduce* the wear on the rock provided that the anchor is built correctly. There is no good reason for anyone to ever recommend using static rope for climbing, in fact I'm sure the rope manufacturers would have something to say if they saw this video.
Tl;dr: The wear on the rocks was caused by shitty anchor building, not by dynamic rope.
/rant
From the Southern Sandstone website: "Whilst it’s a personal choice of the climber as to which rope they use, we advise to focus on the other very important protocols such as using correct rigging (long sling and a karabiner hanging over the edge), always topping out and not lowering off to safeguard the precious rock."
They simply acknowledge the reasons why some climbers choose to use static rope, but notice that they do not recommend it. Instead pointing out (as I have) that good anchor building is faaaaaar more important and there are potential dangers to using static climbing rope.
www.southernsandstoneclimbs.co.uk/p/equipment.html
Thank you for your thoughts.
David Wright This video is specifically for Southern Sandstone in the UK. These are short cliffs that are easily eroded and static ropes are used for top roping here.
@@teamBMCTV thanks for getting back to me, appreciate it.