That's nice of you to say my friend. I actually got certified to teach Vocational Technical Ed - Auto Body Repair through the MOCAC exam but never ended up doing it. I suppose some teachers could use this content in there classrooms if they felt it would be helpful. Thanks again Buckshot 😊
Do you have any videos on fixing flaking clear coat? Got a Florida sun baked sled with some clear coat problems on the hood and roof. The car has never seen salt, but western Pennsylvania is gonna give it some soon. Will the missing clearcoat make the body valnerable to rust? Thanks!
Very good demo. So it is not necessary to put a wet bed? I have to do a blend using a charcoal metallic. I think I will practice your technique before proceeding. Thank you for this video.
Not necessary to put a wet bed. The wet bed idea is relatively new actually. Most painters I know or that I've worked with never used one and you couldn't tell where their paint work started and finished. Here's a video that demonstrates the old way - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for the info and link. I will be doing blend on doors tomorrow. I did practice your technique on wrecked hood today and it came out awesome. I am a new subscriber and look forward to more videos.
I'm having my 95 Civic painted, hood, trunk and quarters. Do you think I will have a problem color matching the doors and fenders when I have them done at a later date? The shop says not a concern but I would love to get your thoughts.
I need to replace my driver side door, but the cost to blend cost more than the paint job. How much of a difference would it be if the person who originally painted my car used the same paint on the door but it is not blended?. Do you have pictures? The car is a 2003 and was re painted originally by macco
Check out this video - it's how blends were done before wet beds, mid coats, blending agents, etc. In the days of lacquer and enamel but today you can certainly do the same - it's even easier with base coat / clear coat. It comes down to personal preferences and $.
great video Jerry. i understand the fade into the adjacent panel, but i am a tad confused on the new panel. the adjacent panel is taped off, the new panel is painted complete. the adjacent panel is unmasked for the fade, but how do you start the paint coming from the new panel? or is the new panel now masked so that your fade starts only on the adjacent panel? i hope this makes sense in what i am asking
Good question - here it is done in real time - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html This particular video is why I did the "paint matching" vid 'cause folks were asking how to prepare the adjacent one. If you still have ?s ask again :)
Thanks Kirk - gotta love good old metal riffs. Have a good weekend my friend. One of my favorite live videos - th-cam.com/video/UgOyXKanKHc/w-d-xo.html
Hey Jerry, I've got a question for you. I'm currently painting my entire car inside and out, and I am wondering where to start and stop painting such as when I paint the inside, engine bay, and outside, as I cannot do it all in 1 go. Do I stop on hard lines like seams or pinch welds and just mask the lower layer off? Or do I stop in the middle of a panel and blend the next section into it? Please let me know thanks.
I would not recommend stopping in the middle of a panel, you could end up with a very patchwork paint finish, do all the interior or the engine bay first and finish out to a definite body joining, when doing the exterior be very thorough with your masking otherwise spray drift will stick to what you have already done
Edmond makes some great points. I always save the exterior for last because that's the most important. All the inside stuff like jambs, engine bay trunk can be done one at a time because they are not connected but you will have to worry about overspray if you don't cover what you have already done like Ed says. As for masking jambs and stuff, you'll want to tape in a way that is inconspicuous - what ever works best is the rule. I have even taped right on the crown of a body line then lightly sanded the hard edge, buffed and you could never tell. There's also a technique called back masking which doesn't leave a hard line but it's time consuming an not always straight.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the reply Gerry..What i ment was as im trying to fade it i really cant see how the white is going on ..Its an eye thingy Bro i get the fade out process i just need new eyes lol Take care Gerry keep up with giving all your Knoledge Bro and thank you
About a month ago I painted my 1968 GT500KR with base/clear in the color of black.This particular black has no other colors or metal flake and is just plain black. I am currently sanding the clear with 2000 grit to remove orange peel and I noticed a area (1inch long and 1/2 wide) in my clearcoat that has a bunch of small bubbles grouped together that appear cloudy white. I either got to close to the panel or went to slow when I was applying the clear. I applied 4 coats of clear on the entire car but I do not know which pass that I created the small bubbles. I briefly thought about trying to sand it out but I am not sure if the bubbles occurred on the 1st 2nd 3rd or 4th coat of clear coat application. I hope I am explaining this correctly. What could be done just in your opinion to correct this?
Well... these kinds of things happen. It's just part of the process and will continue to happen just less often - but sh^# still happens. So no big deal. I would first try wet sanding it as you would the rest of the car and buff - maybe you won't notice it. If it bugs you after that, the only way to fix it is to sand it out and paint that area again. I can't imagine what could have made those bubbles unless it was near a heater or heat lamp. Let me know how it goes and if you have any more ?s - have a good weekend :)
This might sound basic but my question is are you really able to clear over the old clear just by lightly scuffing the rest of the panel's clear? I always assumed that the old, now duller clear would show underneath the new clear since it's a different layer, or does it somehow work? That's my biggest question and the scariest part about blending old paint to me!
I think the yellowing is scuffed off just like when you wet sand and buff. It may have a small effect on the color outcome but not enough to notice. I think there's always a tiny bit of a transition between the new cleared panel and the old anyway - that's par for the course I think though :)
My neigbour/neighbor has scratched my car all over (horrible paranoid old man who has claimed ownership of the parking on the public road). My local paintshop has quoted me €3,000 (approx $3,400) to compound out the scratches and then put a coat of paint and lacquer on the trunk door, four doors and hood and fenders (It's a Nissan X-Trail, little bit smaller that a Nissan Rogue). Basically all the car all around. No roof included. How does this compare with prices in the US elsewhere? Just interested to know. Thanks all.
I have a question. So when your scuffing up the old paint with clear coat on it how much do you scuff it? Does the clear coat have to be removed completely and base coat scuffed a little or is a lightly scuffed clear coat enough to blend paint in?
Just scuff the clear till it's dull - very little shine. Basically the suface has to have tiny scratches in it for the new paint to stick - so if it's lightly scratched or scuffed, that's good enough. Good question btw :)
@Lakeside Autobody thanks for your reply. Just another question as im struggling with this... i have a haze in my new clear coat. Ive tried again and again and still getting a haze. How to i get a high gloss shine? Tried buffing with polish but end up going through the clear coat into the paint. But even with stopping half way i still dont get a high shine so i keep going...
Yes but you want to at least use a blender like this - th-cam.com/video/Turxmxnasp0/w-d-xo.html You can also hide the blend or dry edge with clear coat just like you would do with BC/CC. Hope that makes sense :)
You're welcome Ty. I wanted to say in the video that each job is a bit different so it really comes down to your eye. If it looks good then you did it right. I'll have to throw that in on another vid :)
@@bryvale I'm actually backed up by like a year or more. Just doing family and neighbor cars is a life time commitment. I do know of a good shop down there though - what type of work are you looking to get done?
I'm not sure if you're familiar with a wet bed but that can eliminate any issues like that. It's like a clear base coat that you would lay down first so that your blend has fresh wet paint to land "naturally" in :)
It's amazing how you can watch down town,25 mph traffic and spot horrible blends on new and nearly new vehicles. The method you showed here would look a lot less obvious on those vehicles.
Honestly, Unless you're willing to spend a long time learning how to do painting it's better to just take it to someone who can do it. if you don't know anyone then ask around and find someone with a good reputation and check their social medias. Knowing a good painter is worth every penny!
@@LakesideAutobody Indeed, I just tried fixing a tiny scratch myself, didn't have a clue what I was doing and now I need to find someone close to me who can remove my "paintwork" and match it to the actual cars colour lol.
One of the simplest and best explanations of blending i have seen.
Thanks for the support Peter :)
Thanks for making the video Jerry. I have struggled with blends and your tips will help me in the future.
Have you ever thought about being a teacher for trade school? Your videos are so straight forward and helpful, you'd be a great teacher.👍
That's nice of you to say my friend. I actually got certified to teach Vocational Technical Ed - Auto Body Repair through the MOCAC exam but never ended up doing it. I suppose some teachers could use this content in there classrooms if they felt it would be helpful. Thanks again Buckshot 😊
I seem to always learn something new from your videos. Thank you!
That’s a clever strategy, Fading out on an irregular edge. As long as it looks good, it is good!👍
Thanks Tony - nice hearing from you my friend :)
Great demonstration Jerry 👍🏾
Thanks for watching UPK. Nice cool weather is upon us my friend 😊
@@LakesideAutobody yes sir it is!
Good stuff Bud!!☻
Smart move using the dark color for the demo. I just bought a box of tack cloths and the price here has gone up on them too
Even still, they're a lot cheaper than I expected them to be.
Amazing demo as always Jerry. Great explanation 👍👍👍
Thanks PSG :)
Jerry is LEGEND!!! 👍👍👍
Another great video never seen the angle blend before as you say the eye looks for straight lines makes sense. Thanks 😊.
You're welcome Geoffrey - have a good week :)
one of the best blending videos iv'e seen yet. cheers!
Thanks Super7 - enjoy the rest of the week :)
Do you have any videos on fixing flaking clear coat? Got a Florida sun baked sled with some clear coat problems on the hood and roof. The car has never seen salt, but western Pennsylvania is gonna give it some soon. Will the missing clearcoat make the body valnerable to rust? Thanks!
Such a great idea to explain Jerry! You're the man!!!
Thanks for the kind word CA - hope all is well with you my friend. Have a good week 😊
Awesome, thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge..
Very good demo. So it is not necessary to put a wet bed? I have to do a blend using a charcoal metallic. I think I will practice your technique before proceeding. Thank you for this video.
Not necessary to put a wet bed. The wet bed idea is relatively new actually. Most painters I know or that I've worked with never used one and you couldn't tell where their paint work started and finished. Here's a video that demonstrates the old way - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for the info and link. I will be doing blend on doors tomorrow. I did practice your technique on wrecked hood today and it came out awesome. I am a new subscriber and look forward to more videos.
nice little video very helpful
I appreciate that Brad - have a good weekend :)
Excellent video!
I'm having my 95 Civic painted, hood, trunk and quarters. Do you think I will have a problem color matching the doors and fenders when I have them done at a later date? The shop says not a concern but I would love to get your thoughts.
There should be no issues if they blend like this - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html
I need to replace my driver side door, but the cost to blend cost more than the paint job. How much of a difference would it be if the person who originally painted my car used the same paint on the door but it is not blended?. Do you have pictures? The car is a 2003 and was re painted originally by macco
Here's an example of just painting a panel w/o blending - th-cam.com/video/CNVENaswsio/w-d-xo.html
I’ve seen in other vids painters use a “ blending agent “. But u did not mention. Is that used just on certain jobs or personal preferences?
Check out this video - it's how blends were done before wet beds, mid coats, blending agents, etc. In the days of lacquer and enamel but today you can certainly do the same - it's even easier with base coat / clear coat. It comes down to personal preferences and $.
great video Jerry. i understand the fade into the adjacent panel, but i am a tad confused on the new panel. the adjacent panel is taped off, the new panel is painted complete. the adjacent panel is unmasked for the fade, but how do you start the paint coming from the new panel? or is the new panel now masked so that your fade starts only on the adjacent panel? i hope this makes sense in what i am asking
Good question - here it is done in real time - th-cam.com/video/-GHKaJS7RS0/w-d-xo.html This particular video is why I did the "paint matching" vid 'cause folks were asking how to prepare the adjacent one. If you still have ?s ask again :)
Are you the riffer on the intro, I like it.
Thanks Kirk - gotta love good old metal riffs. Have a good weekend my friend. One of my favorite live videos - th-cam.com/video/UgOyXKanKHc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the tip, very helpful.
You're welcome Tom - thanks for watching and have a good week :)
Hey Jerry, I've got a question for you. I'm currently painting my entire car inside and out, and I am wondering where to start and stop painting such as when I paint the inside, engine bay, and outside, as I cannot do it all in 1 go. Do I stop on hard lines like seams or pinch welds and just mask the lower layer off? Or do I stop in the middle of a panel and blend the next section into it?
Please let me know thanks.
I would not recommend stopping in the middle of a panel, you could end up with a very patchwork paint finish, do all the interior or the engine bay first and finish out to a definite body joining, when doing the exterior be very thorough with your masking otherwise spray drift will stick to what you have already done
Edmond makes some great points. I always save the exterior for last because that's the most important. All the inside stuff like jambs, engine bay trunk can be done one at a time because they are not connected but you will have to worry about overspray if you don't cover what you have already done like Ed says. As for masking jambs and stuff, you'll want to tape in a way that is inconspicuous - what ever works best is the rule. I have even taped right on the crown of a body line then lightly sanded the hard edge, buffed and you could never tell. There's also a technique called back masking which doesn't leave a hard line but it's time consuming an not always straight.
I think i would struggle with the white on white blund as you would be hard pushed to see it Gerry..Greetings from the UK
Hello from Michigan. White is not to bad to match actually if the paint was mixed by a good supplier. Hope you're doing well in the UK :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the reply Gerry..What i ment was as im trying to fade it i really cant see how the white is going on ..Its an eye thingy Bro i get the fade out process i just need new eyes lol Take care Gerry keep up with giving all your Knoledge Bro and thank you
About a month ago I painted my 1968 GT500KR with base/clear in the color of black.This particular black has no other colors or metal flake and is just plain black. I am currently sanding the clear with 2000 grit to remove orange peel and I noticed a area (1inch long and 1/2 wide) in my clearcoat that has a bunch of small bubbles grouped together that appear cloudy white. I either got to close to the panel or went to slow when I was applying the clear. I applied 4 coats of clear on the entire car but I do not know which pass that I created the small bubbles. I briefly thought about trying to sand it out but I am not sure if the bubbles occurred on the 1st 2nd 3rd or 4th coat of clear coat application. I hope I am explaining this correctly. What could be done just in your opinion to correct this?
Well... these kinds of things happen. It's just part of the process and will continue to happen just less often - but sh^# still happens. So no big deal. I would first try wet sanding it as you would the rest of the car and buff - maybe you won't notice it. If it bugs you after that, the only way to fix it is to sand it out and paint that area again. I can't imagine what could have made those bubbles unless it was near a heater or heat lamp. Let me know how it goes and if you have any more ?s - have a good weekend :)
This might sound basic but my question is are you really able to clear over the old clear just by lightly scuffing the rest of the panel's clear? I always assumed that the old, now duller clear would show underneath the new clear since it's a different layer, or does it somehow work? That's my biggest question and the scariest part about blending old paint to me!
I think the yellowing is scuffed off just like when you wet sand and buff. It may have a small effect on the color outcome but not enough to notice. I think there's always a tiny bit of a transition between the new cleared panel and the old anyway - that's par for the course I think though :)
Such a good and clear explanation 💪🏻
Glad you liked it Kax - have a good weekend :)
My neigbour/neighbor has scratched my car all over (horrible paranoid old man who has claimed ownership of the parking on the public road). My local paintshop has quoted me €3,000 (approx $3,400) to compound out the scratches and then put a coat of paint and lacquer on the trunk door, four doors and hood and fenders (It's a Nissan X-Trail, little bit smaller that a Nissan Rogue). Basically all the car all around. No roof included. How does this compare with prices in the US elsewhere? Just interested to know. Thanks all.
I have a question. So when your scuffing up the old paint with clear coat on it how much do you scuff it? Does the clear coat have to be removed completely and base coat scuffed a little or is a lightly scuffed clear coat enough to blend paint in?
Just scuff the clear till it's dull - very little shine. Basically the suface has to have tiny scratches in it for the new paint to stick - so if it's lightly scratched or scuffed, that's good enough. Good question btw :)
@Lakeside Autobody thanks for your reply. Just another question as im struggling with this... i have a haze in my new clear coat. Ive tried again and again and still getting a haze. How to i get a high gloss shine? Tried buffing with polish but end up going through the clear coat into the paint. But even with stopping half way i still dont get a high shine so i keep going...
Nice job 👏 looks great 👍
I appreciate you checking it out Curtis - hope everything is good with you my friend :)
Would this work with single stage as well?
Yes but you want to at least use a blender like this - th-cam.com/video/Turxmxnasp0/w-d-xo.html You can also hide the blend or dry edge with clear coat just like you would do with BC/CC. Hope that makes sense :)
Excellent method thanks🤠👍
You're welcome Ty. I wanted to say in the video that each job is a bit different so it really comes down to your eye. If it looks good then you did it right. I'll have to throw that in on another vid :)
Where are you located?
Michigan
@@LakesideAutobody I’m in the Detroit area and meed to get some work done. How can we connect?
@@bryvale I'm actually backed up by like a year or more. Just doing family and neighbor cars is a life time commitment. I do know of a good shop down there though - what type of work are you looking to get done?
@@LakesideAutobody i have a 94 bronco with some rust in the typical spots. Looking to get it ready to paint.
Does fanning cause overspray issues?
I'm not sure if you're familiar with a wet bed but that can eliminate any issues like that. It's like a clear base coat that you would lay down first so that your blend has fresh wet paint to land "naturally" in :)
This is good
Easy and simple ..by using a black paint
It's amazing how you can watch down town,25 mph traffic and spot horrible blends on new and nearly new vehicles. The method you showed here would look a lot less obvious on those vehicles.
Thanks Bill - and thanks for watching. Have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too. I really appreciate your videos.
@@billhayward2668 Thanks my friend - I appreciate the comments - enjoy the rest of the week :)
That's way above my pay grade! What you call 'blending' I call overspray! lol
👍🎃🏈😊
Honestly,
Unless you're willing to spend a long time learning how to do painting it's better to just take it to someone who can do it. if you don't know anyone then ask around and find someone with a good reputation and check their social medias.
Knowing a good painter is worth every penny!
Finding someone you can trust with anything is tough for sure - heating and air, mechanical, roofing, doctor......... 👍💯
@@LakesideAutobody Indeed, I just tried fixing a tiny scratch myself, didn't have a clue what I was doing and now I need to find someone close to me who can remove my "paintwork" and match it to the actual cars colour lol.
You are amazing
Thanks my friend - I appreciate the support :)
Great vid. Thank you Jerry
You're welcome :)
@@LakesideAutobody Love your method of simplicity. And I see your results are great. Very cool 👍 God bless
@@HEADBANGRR God bless you too my friend. Simple seems to work a lot in life :)
great video Bob, nice work. smoke cigrits
Nice hearing from you Marty - hope everything is going well for you - have a great weekend :)