Please do more maintenance videos. I have a 2024 rxt 325. This is my first ski so im in sponge mode..... im learning all I can an you are by far the best on this channel for teaching.
@@johnbutler-p9s I appreciate that! I’ll be making videos as things come along but if there’s anything specific you’d like to see just let me know and I’ll make a video about it.
I love the maintenance videos been taking care of the ski I bought last year used off a guy and been doing all the maintenance myself. 2 questions. 1) Do you have to worry about alignment at all when reinstalling your jet pump? 2) At what point should rust be a concern on a driveshaft? I see a lot of forums saying ride it till it breaks. It’s the only spot of the ski with corrosion and is a salt water ski. Thanks
Thank you! Those are great questions. 1.) Pump alignment isn't something you need to worry about. Engine alignment can be if it's causing your wear ring to wear out excessively. If your carbon seal wears in less than 100 hours it's a sign your engine may not be aligned properly. 2.) Shaft rust only becomes a problem when the splines no longer have clean ridges, or when you need to replace the carbon seal because the rubber orings will get destroyed on the rust. There's no "Point of no return" with rust, just until it becomes a problem. The best thing you can do if you ride salt is to rinse it off and spray anti corrosion spray on it.
Hi Jake, absolutely brilliant videos, very well explained and very detailed. So for IDF, how is the black plastic bar that is attached to that thing on the top of the steering bracket removed? Thank you, subscribed!
Thank you! It's a bit odd to explain, but it makes sense when you work on it. First you want to remove the 4 bolts holding the venturi on, then pull the plastic drain tubes so they're loose. Then you can kind of lift the iDF linkage up and use a screwdriver to gently pry it off. Don't pry too hard but it should flex just enough to pop off.
Rather than grease or oil on the pump to transom seal, I like to spray both with some Windex. It is faster and easier and will not run the risk of damaging the seal material. I have never thought that pump grease was as good as the older oil lubricated pumps. I was surprised to see the oil run into the pump. I thought there was a rear seal.
Windex is another great option too! Agreed that the grease only doesn't last as long as the old oil based pumps. I find this grease/oil cocktail works fantastic and lasts much longer. There is a rear seal on the pump, but its behind the bearing and there's an air gap where the oil will collect.
@@jakgal041 I always have the oil/grease combo in my mind as a great idea, but never pull the trigger. Impros is my go to for pump/impeller questions and they always say to only use grease as BRP intended. I assume the grease and gear oil will mix resulting in simply thinner grease. Have you ever thought about using a NLGI Zero or One grease rather than the OEM pump grease? It is more like a pretty thick NLGI Two.
@ I’ve used a few different types of grease over the years but ultimately found that the grease/oil combo performs best. It tends to have the least amount of heat and seems to last a good bit longer between rebuilds.
That will vary based how how well you maintain it and the environment you ride in. A well maintained pump can last for several hundred operating hours. If you use the oil blend, it will greatly extend the life of your pump bearings.
@@jakgal041 It has been my experience that the seals fail/wear out letting water into the pump long before bearing issues. What can we do to extend the life of the seals???
@@billy-bo-dilly I've noticed that the seals tend to go bad from heat. I've yet to have a single seal go bad after using the oil/grease mix. I haven't done enough testing to confirm if that is truly helping, but given the quantity I'd say it's a fair assessment.
Hey mate, random question but have you got the wiring diagram for the premium audio set up ? My receiver has shat itself and im hoping to replace it with a aftermarket 1 but still retain the factory amp Cheers
great teacher
Please do more maintenance videos. I have a 2024 rxt 325. This is my first ski so im in sponge mode..... im learning all I can an you are by far the best on this channel for teaching.
@@johnbutler-p9s I appreciate that! I’ll be making videos as things come along but if there’s anything specific you’d like to see just let me know and I’ll make a video about it.
I love the maintenance videos been taking care of the ski I bought last year used off a guy and been doing all the maintenance myself. 2 questions.
1) Do you have to worry about alignment at all when reinstalling your jet pump?
2) At what point should rust be a concern on a driveshaft? I see a lot of forums saying ride it till it breaks. It’s the only spot of the ski with corrosion and is a salt water ski. Thanks
Thank you! Those are great questions.
1.) Pump alignment isn't something you need to worry about. Engine alignment can be if it's causing your wear ring to wear out excessively. If your carbon seal wears in less than 100 hours it's a sign your engine may not be aligned properly.
2.) Shaft rust only becomes a problem when the splines no longer have clean ridges, or when you need to replace the carbon seal because the rubber orings will get destroyed on the rust. There's no "Point of no return" with rust, just until it becomes a problem. The best thing you can do if you ride salt is to rinse it off and spray anti corrosion spray on it.
Hi Jake, absolutely brilliant videos, very well explained and very detailed. So for IDF, how is the black plastic bar that is attached to that thing on the top of the steering bracket removed? Thank you, subscribed!
Thank you! It's a bit odd to explain, but it makes sense when you work on it. First you want to remove the 4 bolts holding the venturi on, then pull the plastic drain tubes so they're loose. Then you can kind of lift the iDF linkage up and use a screwdriver to gently pry it off. Don't pry too hard but it should flex just enough to pop off.
Rather than grease or oil on the pump to transom seal, I like to spray both with some Windex. It is faster and easier and will not run the risk of damaging the seal material. I have never thought that pump grease was as good as the older oil lubricated pumps. I was surprised to see the oil run into the pump. I thought there was a rear seal.
Windex is another great option too! Agreed that the grease only doesn't last as long as the old oil based pumps. I find this grease/oil cocktail works fantastic and lasts much longer. There is a rear seal on the pump, but its behind the bearing and there's an air gap where the oil will collect.
@@jakgal041 I always have the oil/grease combo in my mind as a great idea, but never pull the trigger. Impros is my go to for pump/impeller questions and they always say to only use grease as BRP intended. I assume the grease and gear oil will mix resulting in simply thinner grease. Have you ever thought about using a NLGI Zero or One grease rather than the OEM pump grease? It is more like a pretty thick NLGI Two.
@ I’ve used a few different types of grease over the years but ultimately found that the grease/oil combo performs best. It tends to have the least amount of heat and seems to last a good bit longer between rebuilds.
Hi. Doing the right maintenance like you did here. Whats the lifespan of that berring?
That will vary based how how well you maintain it and the environment you ride in. A well maintained pump can last for several hundred operating hours. If you use the oil blend, it will greatly extend the life of your pump bearings.
@@jakgal041 It has been my experience that the seals fail/wear out letting water into the pump long before bearing issues. What can we do to extend the life of the seals???
@@billy-bo-dilly I've noticed that the seals tend to go bad from heat. I've yet to have a single seal go bad after using the oil/grease mix. I haven't done enough testing to confirm if that is truly helping, but given the quantity I'd say it's a fair assessment.
Hey mate, random question but have you got the wiring diagram for the premium audio set up ? My receiver has shat itself and im hoping to replace it with a aftermarket 1 but still retain the factory amp
Cheers
I do yes. What's your email? I'll email it to you.
@jakgal041 you're a absolute legend mate, it won't let me reply with a email so I'll try split it
Super
scaff91
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