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It would be tight for a bilge pump on that same side, but you can definitely squeeze one on the other side of the pump tunnel just in front of the intercooler.

Thank you! It's a bit odd to explain, but it makes sense when you work on it. First you want to remove the 4 bolts holding the venturi on, then pull the plastic drain tubes so they're loose. Then you can kind of lift the iDF linkage up and use a screwdriver to gently pry it off. Don't pry too hard but it should flex just enough to pop off.

Good call, you just saved yourself a bunch of headaches.

Is it a GTX Limited? And does it come with a trailer? A fully loaded GTX Limited with the trailer is worth about $15,500, a standard GTX 300 is worth ~$13,500. The rubber decking can absolutely be replaced. If you let me know which model exactly I can send some options.

@ limited for sure. Yes comes with a Karavan trailer. Price sounds about right then.

The 2007 lineup is pretty reliable, especially the naturally aspirated models. As long as the one you look at was well maintained it should be a good buy.

@jakgal041 Thank you for your response. 👍

I'm glad to hear that! If there's anything specific you'd like to know more about, let me know and I'll make a video about it!

Thank you! Those are great questions. 1.) Pump alignment isn't something you need to worry about. Engine alignment can be if it's causing your wear ring to wear out excessively. If your carbon seal wears in less than 100 hours it's a sign your engine may not be aligned properly. 2.) Shaft rust only becomes a problem when the splines no longer have clean ridges, or when you need to replace the carbon seal because the rubber orings will get destroyed on the rust. There's no "Point of no return" with rust, just until it becomes a problem. The best thing you can do if you ride salt is to rinse it off and spray anti corrosion spray on it.

Thank you! Was your friend using a LiPo/Li-Ion battery by any chance? Or was it LiFePO4. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are FAR more stable than LiPo/Li-Ion batteries. I have a better chance of blowing up from a fuel system failure than I do of the phosphate battery blowing up! Also note, there are some shady manufacturers out there that either don't include a BMS, or have a poorly designed BMS which can lead to situations like that.

@jakgal041 not sure which battery. I ran lithium in my race cars too. Always pulled them out for charge though. I guessing Always just had it in mind of a fire getting started. I'll be making lots of content this summer with my skis. Just ordered a 325 RXP , picking it up next month

@@lets_go_C Ah yeah I bet it was the older chem LiPo or Li-ion, LifePO4 is the way to go, its one of the safest chemistries available! Looking forward to your content! You're going to love the 325, it pulls hard!

@@johnbutler-p9s I appreciate that! I’ll be making videos as things come along but if there’s anything specific you’d like to see just let me know and I’ll make a video about it.

Sure thing. It's a standard SAE flush mount port that I bought on Amazon for $10. It ties into the battery with a fuse. It has a protective cap but I also added a small bit of dielectric grease. I've been using these for years with mixed salt and fresh water riding and they've always held up without any issues. If you'd like more information let me know and I can make a quick video going over it!

Yeah, that looks very handy. I saw it in a few of your other videos and I was immediately curious about it. I looked it up but there seems to be thousands of options. A quick video on it would be greatly appreciated. Info like exact model, does it come with a built in fuse and does it come with the sticker. Awesome video’s btw! A lot of great info. I’ve been riding skis for years and so we ended up picking up two brand skis last yr for my wife and I. 23’ RXTX and a Wake Pro. Anyway keep it up and thanks again!!

@@fabiocamara5766 I appreciate that! I just made a quick video so check it out and if it doesn't answer one of your questions just let me know! th-cam.com/video/c9YWPXKGC58/w-d-xo.html

@@jakgal041 Just watched your new video on it. Thanks for being so responsive!

@@Mick-m4t You're welcome! I'm open to ideas lol trying to kill time until riding season!

You won't hurt anything by running ethanol free, but it's also not required especially for riding 5 months out of the year. If you only rode once and then were planning on storing it for a few years then it would be worth it. Standard pump gas high octane is all you need.

Fizzle pipes with the Turbosmart Gen V Raceport BOV. The air intake is one I made. 3 to 4 inch silicone 90 degree elbow. PVC coupler and a 4 inch marine air filter.

@@paulthompson1216 that’s a great dealer! If it helps, you could always pay them to just check the slip at 200 hours. There are companies that will rebuild them for about $600 so you don’t need to replace them. And the good news is not many need a rebuild at only 200 hours. I’ve worked on plenty with 350+ hours that are still using the same charger.

@ Thanks. Great info.

@@chipanderson4768 it’s okay but extremely overpriced for what it is and performs slightly worse than the rear 90.

@@joemonsterbreather7381 it’s a blast to ride through, not many restaurants but plenty of cool spots to ride past and drop anchor, or just land on one of the islands.

@@jakgal041 I fish off my 2023 px. i ran under del mem and com barry. both bridges i got chased by small drones lol. i mainly hit up ocmd and cape henlopin but i broke the ski in there on del river because its like 15 mins from my house

@@joemonsterbreather7381 I've noticed a few older guys flying their drones to record boat traffic for their TH-cam channels. I've found myself in a few of their clips lol

Fastest I went was 69 but that was with a tune. Air intake was a homemade one. 3" to 4" silicone elbow with a 3" PVC coupler and a marine air filter.

@@tatoweb the manual says no longer than 90 seconds. There’s no need to flush for longer than 30 seconds if you’re riding salt.

@@jakgal041 step 3 of the flushing process in the manual says "3. Run the engine 90 seconds at idle". Then, there's a notice below that says "Never run engine longer than 2 minutes. Driveline seal has no cooling when watercraft is out of the water". I agree with what you say in the beginning about people saying a break in is not needed, but if it is on the manual, there should be a reason. I think the same applies here.

@ I would do your own testing with a thermal gun on the driveline. If you want to run it for 90 seconds that’s fine. But just remember I’ve been doing this for a long time and know these things inside and out. That seal heats up real fast without any water. I would not run it for longer than 30 seconds.

I do yes. What's your email? I'll email it to you.

@jakgal041 you're a absolute legend mate, it won't let me reply with a email so I'll try split it

Super

scaff91

@

If it's a Haijiu (new stock battery), most will last about a year, some have been lucky to get 2 years. In previous years, a Yuasa (old stock battery) was good for 3-4 years.

@@tonycolca2241 Hard to say since it’ll vary based on current and all, but at 40mph you should be able to make it just over 100 miles on a tank.

@jakgal041 bear with me that sounds very good is that with how much reserve left APPROXIMATELY 😊 thanks !

@ you’d be hearing the low fuel warning at that point so you’d have a few miles left. If you’re planning on riding any distance I highly recommend picking up the LinQ fuel caddy or making your own spare fuel tank.

Same here in southeast PA. This is just a few videos from this past summer.

@jakgal041 sweet, neighbors. I'm in Maryland... I ride a lot. If you ever come down here

@ that sounds great! Maryland has a lot of awesome riding spots that’s for sure

Hey Dave, yes I keep mine on a battery maintainer when I'm not riding for several weeks/months at a time. I actually added that charge port on the side to make it easier to charge without needing to take the seats off. It was a cheap $10 mod and I can use various SAE accessories with it. If you're interested I have another video on my channel talking about the batteries and electrical system!

I've had nothing but good experiences with the Yuasa batteries. They were the batteries SeaDoo used prior to cost cutting. They're also made in the US. Amazon sells the Yuasa with an acid pack which means they ship you a non activated battery that you activate by dumping the acid into the battery. It ensures you have a 0 day old battery rather than one that's been sitting on the shelf.

I'm in Delaware County, we usually launch from Ridley Township Marina every weekend so its a bit more up north lol

@ definitely this coming season we will get together I’ll bring my ski and few friends for new experiences on ur side and who know maybe one day u guys come down here we can show u around our spots

@@Icaka1988 That sounds great! We have a few islands we like to hit and just have a fire and smoke cigars. Its a great time. Are you on the SeaDoo FB groups?

@ yes sir I’m I have 2019 rxt 230 and I do a lot of work on it myself but if I have any questions I’ll definitely hit u up for sure

@@Icaka1988 Please do, I'm looking for video ideas so if you ever need help with anything, let me know and I'll turn it into a video.

I have! I just find that using the pliers is easier. Especially for re-inserting since it's kind of a pain to remove them from the coil pack. Its definitely doable if you don't have the long reach pliers though!

@ fair enough, I guess it comes down to each persons preference. Whenever I found out I could removed them with the coil packs and then reinsert them and start the threads it was a game changer for me 😅 always hated using the pliers just just clunky to me

@@mikenegron6162 I’ve used a pump wedge in the past and it definitely helps. On the new skis you need to grind away at parts of the steering nozzle to make it work. I’ve found that the iBR grind has a similar effect.

That's fantastic. I just checked them out, certainly looks like the answer to the problem with the NOCO's. Thanks for the info!

Sure thing. Thanks for all the great maintenance vids! I try to do as much as possible myself, but being somewhat of a novice to Sea Doos, they are a huge help.

@ I’m glad to hear that! If there’s anything specific you ever need help with, I’d be happy to make a video out of it.

@@chipanderson4768 For all newer SeaDoo’s you want a group 20 so the NOCO NLP20 is the size you want to go with.

@@mattm15 it’s a flush mount SAE port that I got on Amazon for $15. The leads connect directly to the battery with a fuse. I’ve used this setup on all my skis since it makes it easy to charge and I can use SAE power accessories on the water.

@@jakgal041thank you appreciate it!

Yup. Combination of a poorly installed factory pump seal which caused cavitation burn and pitting and riding in a river with a ton of floating debris (sticks, bottle caps, etc).

I could have, but I wanted to relocated the catch can to give better battery access.

@@jakgal041 I was gong to put in a riva (or knockoff like you had) useing the bracket, but it's already hard enough to get battery in and out. So having the catch can there makes it worse?

@@Hammy60 Unfortunately yes. It's not impossible but it does make it slightly harder. There are a few alternatives if you don't want to go the DIY route. The Worx can mounts right next to the intake so it's on the opposite side of the engine to the battery. www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6069&srsltid=AfmBOorFg7mdLWNBauMBNoYYvSyAtGXEKJlP8QZz2_FUz_CYt_6gzLdlWZU&gQT=1

This is the one I bought. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJJ5JP18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 The other $10 was for the barbed fitting that I needed since I have an aftermarket intake.

@@jakgal041 Thanks Heaps I pick my 25 RTX-x 325 next week

@@ozbiker5311 No problem, good luck on the buy!

@@chipanderson4768 Newish. I put it on the ski when I bought it so about 40 hours of runtime. It’s a 14/19.

That's an air intake I made myself with an Amazon 3" to 4" silicone elbow, 3" PVC coupler and a 4" marine air filter (RK13090-4-SD). You can put the whole thing together for under $100 which will safe you quite a bit from anyone selling air intakes.

@@jakgal041 can you confirm the coupler is 3" and not 4"? It's 3 inches on the supercharger, you used a 3"->4 elbow and the filter is 4". Just wanted to clarify. Thx! Already bought the filter.

@@Hammy60 That's exactly correct yes. The supercharger inlet is 3". Realistically you could just do a 3" elbow but the popular choice is to do a 3" to 4" elbow with a 4 inch filter for better airflow.

@@joemonsterbreather7381 That’s pretty much exactly where you want it to be so yours is perfect.

Are you referring to limitations through the X module? If so, you would need to unlock the full trim range through that module, or enable it through BUDS. The mod I did in this video is to extend the already full range even further by removing the mechanical limitations.

@jakgal041 Yes, but 2025 gtx325 officially doesn't support X module. Do you have any good solutions?

@@JaniceMiller-o1i There is, the module you'd need for the 2025 GTX 325 is this one. sea-doo-shop.brp.com/us/en/295100857-ski-and-x-package-module.html If you know anyone with the right BUDS access level they can also enable it for you without needing to buy this module.

Thank you! The life of the carbon seal will vary on a range of things. You may be able to go 600+ hours without ever replacing it, or you may need to replace it at 50. The best thing to do is periodically check your hull for excessive carbon dust which would indicate when the seal is end of life. I made a video specifically for the carbon seal so check that out! Also, yes you can briefly rev up to 6000 RPM on the hose. I wouldn't hold it there for long, but a few quick blips is perfectly fine.

You’ll be good. Your pump won’t fail from missing a year of maintenance. Definitely check your grease when you can though.