Refurbishing Lathe Chucks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I will walk you through the process of refurbishing three chucks to fit my LeBlond metal lathe - a 3-Jaw, 4-Jaw and 6-Jaw chuck. Grease, grime, and rust is all removed as these chucks are taken apart, cleaned, and put back together to get them ready for use.
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I have a bag of glass marbles i got at a garage sale i use to take up space when soaking things, to reduce product usage. Kinda like a brick in the toilet tank to reduce water. Glass marbles are ideal because they are non reactive to almost any chemical you can throw at them, non conductive and fill up small spaces. They also work in an electrolysis tank. Bonus tip, marbles/ball bearings inside any container you need to shake before use like paint, or lapping compound or whatever, really speeds up the mixing.
Hold on to your marbles, Once you lose them, things get weird....
I soaked my marbles in alcohol... I'm sure there still fine, but I can't find them.
That's genius. I'm definitely going to use that. Do you ever notice the marbles leaving any sort of pattern on contact with the items you soak?
My thougts exactly.
brilliant tips
@@LAsparkTVWireTestLimited Here is another: If a 4mm allen key fits into a bolt, so does a 4mm ball bearing. If you super glue it in there, nothing but a soak in acetone is gonna get it out. Cant drill it, cant hammer it out, cant grab it..... If you peen over the head of the bolt, the bearing is in there for good...
Very effective anti-theft/anti tamper.
Great video as always Mr. Rucker. I'm a CNC machinist looking to go backwards. You, Mr. Booth, Mr. Fenner, and that goof Mr. Lipton have taught me so much in the manual machining world. The shop that I work in, has more antique yet still operable machinery than I've ever seen. I see machines at work...sitting in dark corners of the shop...collecting dust, that I know I could run because of you guys. I can't thank ya'll enough.
its not easy to be accurate on old lathe ,no dro ,wear in slides ,wear in chucks,dammn thing turns tapers etc...
Stick to the cnc machining ,there is a reason why those machines stay in dark corners.
zumbazumba1 I agree and disagree at the same time. I run some impressive machines...I throw code at them...make offsets...and I'm good for days. Personally, manual machining is an intimate thing...CNC is less controlled by me...hence the CNC. I'd prefer to be in more control...intimately...while trying not to sound like a dirty bird.
I do get you what you mean ,machinist brother from another mother.For 5 years i am a machinist on manual universal lathes.If you have the right idea they are indeed universal ,from turning one to milling machine ,hobbing gears to making keyways.You aint gonna do that on a 500k worthy cnc lathe machine.Cnc machines can do amazing things but also they kill the creativity,there is no room for improvisation.
I recommend that you stick to your job with cnc machines for $$$ and secretly cheat on it with a manual south bend or similar lathe in your basement.
When a man owns a milling machine and a lathe with right tools and right mind and materials nothing is impossible.
zumbazumba1 Honestly, I couldn't have said it better myself. You, my friend, are my machinist brother...from that other mother of which you speak. I currently have two engine lathes on my radar...an exceptional Clausing and an old clapped out Mori Seiki. Bridgeports are a dime a dozen in my situation...but...I'm a lathe guy...have been, and preferably, will always be. It makes me think of Abom and how much enjoyment he gets out of that old Monarch of his. The thing is... I want that. I'd prefer not to have a fanuc controller screen staring me in the face all day. I do enjoy what I do...don't get me wrong...but I'd prefer the calculations were made from what's under my hat...rather than some computer.
When buying lathe biggest concern is condition of the slides,most will have wear from use(usualy around chuck where people work most of time ).Check the wiggle of the compound and the cross slide with dial indicator -those have gibs that can be tighten usualy but sometimes they need new gib(can be made new but costs money ) or they need to be ground and scraped.
Check for backlash in a cross slide screw-1/10 of a mm is a normal backlash when nut and screw are new(also can be made new but costs money).If cross and compound slide have no play and gibs are set correctly backlash wont have that much of a influence on a precision.
Check the main spindle,put a dial indicator on is or on the chuck and then with a long bar try to move it up and down-this will tell you a condition of ball bearings /bushings.(can buy new -again costs money).
Check if bushings /taperd roller bearings can be tightend-old machines use bushings that are good up to max 600rpm and need to be oiled.Newer machines use ball bearings on main spindle axe and their speed s go up to 3000 rpm usualy.-this is important because carbide inserts like higher speeds,older machines were made for hss blanks.
Open the cover of the lathe and check the main gears ,if you see any of them are blue(runing withouth oil ) or damaged if they are run away and never look back .
Check the tail stock quill with dial indicator -same as main spindle.Lock the tail stock and push quill against chuck to see if tail stock thread is stripped.With your finger check if the tail stock morse taper is smooth and undamaged-this can be reamed if damaged but again its a pain in the ass and costs money.
Check the condition of the pulleys on the motor and on the main gear if machine has them,And the condition of belts.-this is easy to make new but again it costs money so why not bring it down.
Bring a micrometer and peace of steel to turn and test the machine you are buying.See if it turns too much of a taper.(this can be due tailstock beeing missaligned properly ,run in a slides or machine not leveld properly-i shit you not )
Try heavy cuts(10mm pass for heavy machine ,5-8 mm for meduim ,3-4mm for smaller ones ) and see how macahine handles them.If it doesnt stop the clutch is ok(if it has it,new machines do have ).If it skips the cut
clutch can be worn out or simply needs to be tighten(when buying old machine check for spare parts if they are still available-thats one big factor to consider)
Last thing is drop the price down for every single mistake you find that can be fixed-it will cost you.Most of the sales guys know jack shit about machines and claim that machine is in PERFECT BRAND NEW condition .
I dropped the drill press price form 1000$ to a 400$ when i looked at it and said what needs to be replaced.
When i fixed it grand total was 500$ and some time.
Old machines can be restored to a brand new condition when scraped and restored for a half of price of a new one -
if you know a place where you can send it.I seen it on a youtube guy sends in his surface grinder like 50 years old and they scrape the slides ,repalace ball bearings and for 20k$ he has old- new machine that is capeble of 1/1000 precision grinding that will last for another 50 years to come.
This is all that comes to my mind right now ,probably i missed something.
Hope you buy something that fits your needs and serves you for many years to come.
www.homews.co.uk/page463.html check this dude its Harolld Hall -author of workshop practice series of books.he has many projects you can do and build your own machines for fraction of cost .
I love how you rethought everything when it got tight instead of breaking something.
These Chucks are metric, because they come from southern germany. That brand is Röhm, a manufacter especially for chucks, drill cucks and vises. Greetings from Germany, Nils
And Röhms are very good (German). We had/have both 3 jaw and 4-jaw Röhm chucks on several lathes for sale here at Machineco in Montreal. Anyone interested? We're Toll free 1-888-459-4025 for all questions about lathes etc.
The 6 jaw is a special one ...it's made for tubes or cylindrical objects
I have a Röhm .32sw revolver.
They should have stuck with machine tools lol
True, but remember the Simpsons episode were Homer joined the 'Stonecutters'? "Who keeps the metric system down, we do we do".
As a guy who just admires the skills and broad knowledge that a skilled machines must possess I really appreciate your videos. I love these old machines, I remember seeing them in factories when I was young and in the ship's engine room (I was a deck officer), I am distressed that they are no longer made here. I would love to hear some explineation on just how those scrolls were machined and what tooling was used.
My JAW dropped when you taped on that scroll with that allen wrench. Don't you have a brass punch? Gun Bluing makes a nice protective finish. Never seize those bolts, allows you to tighten the bolts properly, and makes it easier to take apart.
Even gun blued steel will rust over time.
You're right, it's not the best, but it's possible that the sides on the scroll are the more important mating surface, not the face of the scroll. I wouldn't go crazy with trying to tap it out though.
Taped or tapped? Two very different meanings
@@codprawn Eeny Meeny Miny Moe or I can google it to find out. OK I choose tapped or is it chose lol Thanks
@@oldman6495
Depends on the tense!
Sheer expertise and mastery of your trade! Brilliant idea using a hardened Allen key to punch on the precision scroll!
Shut up
Just a quick comment if I may, I was taught that a "Witness Mark" was simply any remnant of the tooling marks on a machined surface left behind intentionally. They were used as an example of how much (or really how little) metal was removed in the final processing of that surface. Match marks on the other hand, were marks put on the visible surfaces to show how two different mating parts were originally assembled. In part just to make certain that they went back together in the correct orientation to each other.
I've always wondered how those worked mechanically. So simple!
Hi Keith, I just rewatched this video, which helped me work on the Cushman chuck that came with my Monarch 10EE. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video, I was having a problem taking apart my 3 jaw, 8" Bison, and it's built the same way as your 3 jaw Rohm chuck.
After watching the video again, when you greased the wear surfaces behind the scroll on the 3 jaw, i noticed the groove in between them ran all the way around, and there was a tapped hole in the groove. I think that little tapped hole on the front of the chuck is to screw in a grease fitting and grease the chuck. If it is, it should have a plug in it when not being greased.
I love it !!! Great Chuck's AND great work. The new stuff isn't generally made out of as good a steel as those older Chuck's
A LEBLOND !!!! RAN ONE AT THE NEWPORT NEWS SHIPYARD FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS. MINE HAD A DIGITAL READOUT UPGRADE. VERY GOOD ENGINE LATHE.
ALL THE BEST SIR.
I ran a LeBlond at NNS & DDCo as well! Could it have been the same lathe? They did have serveral of them, including (two) very ancient CNC versions.
Keith I truly appreciate you showing your whoopsie dasiy moments. I learn from it and don't feel alone ☺
You are up early. I have not even gone to bed yet. In Washington State, retired and playing in the garage. Thank's in advance.
I learned how to disassemble and clean three different types of lathe chucks today. I'm a network technician and a programmer. This was more fascinating than anything I've done in a month. I chose the wrong career. XD
"Jack Screws" (is what they're called) for separating the 3 jaw chuck
Thanks Kieth. I never knew how the chucks came apart. At many years ago I did work for SO manufacturing in Solon Ohio in the office. Many thanks & God Bless you
Hey Keith for future reference those threaded holes in the backing plate are called jacking screws. Run into them a lot when working on things with machined fit. One word of caution be careful to turn them in small amounts and equally as you can damage the parts if you get it cocked in its bore.
Hi keith. Shotly after I got my Monarch lathe I was trying to dial in the run out on my three jaw chuck . My model L is a threaded shaft and the chuck screws on. It has the same kind of set up as yours where the jaws bolt on to the peice that rides on the scroll. It made a huge difference which jaw went on to each of those peices. I did notice that someone before me made an almost unnoticeable number on each one and they were in the wrong place. Once I moved them to coincide with the correct jaw it ran within .0001. Just a thought as you put yours on you might check and see if it makes a difference where they go on your lathe. But great video. Thanks because most every video you and some others do are a great help to me.
We too have a Monarch 16in. like Keiths. BTW- 2-part top jaws are on many lathes for sale here at Machineco in Montreal. Thus you can reverse jaws instead of having a complete alternate set for Inside-Outside The lower jaw MUST be numbered in order to fit the scroll in order. Anyone interested? We're Toll free 1-888-459-4025 for all questions about lathes etc.
Very helpful. Thank you for putting together this video. It has to double the effort involved in any job.
Just a simple suggestion; I did the same job on a chuck for my lathe. I didn't have evapo-rust (great product) but a machinist told me white vinegar would remove the rust. It worked great!!! for a fraction of the cost.
Evapo rust works much much faster when heated. A large stainless pot and a campstove work wonders. Heat to about 180*. What it normally does in 12hrs it will do in less than an hour when hot.
rejracer good to know. Thanks
as does hydrochloric acid
thank you if for no other reason i get to see them come apart and go back together that was helpful if i ever get started
I like to use powdered graphite to lube the guts of my chucks so the chips and cast iron dust don't like to stick as well. Those chucks really cleaned up nice! Great to have all the work holding options on that lathe. Try fluid film for your anti corrosion spray, works great and won't bother your skin.
The WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement. The 40 was the 40th attempt at making the product. I remember when it made its debut in the San Diego newspaper 'way back when' and have used it since.
Old Sailor Dave
Very nice German-made Rohm chucks you have there for the first two you did, very expensive stuff which is why you only typically see those on high-end lathes. If you want some sticker shock look up the price of a new Rohm lathe chuck on MSC.
Nothing better than a Good Clean up and service Keith. Nice finished result on all three Chucks mate :)
Great job as always Keith, my only concerns are, grease is probably not the best method of lubricating the inner workings of a chuck, because any chips that find's they way in there, will have a tendency to stick to the grease. Oil would be a more appropriate lube for that application. Also, you need to lubricate all moving surfaces, you lubricated the flat surface of the crown wheel and not the center that rotates around that hub, you could be a little more liberal with the oil, just wipe off the excess at the end.
I was going to ask about using grease.
Heck, any "excess" oil will be taken care of the first time you turn on the lathe. ;-)
Grease is FINE. Careless use of compressed air and grinding/polishing on the lathe is a main problem.
ibkoool1 This is sadly very typical of Keith's work, particularly when lubricating parts during assembly. He likes to portray himself as a careful and experienced engineer and yet can't actually see the shortcomings of his own work. Similar examples of mistakes litter his videos.
I watch them because I enjoy the sort of machinery Keith works on. I have spent most of my career repairing antique machines and industrial installations and much of my work was putting right poor or even bad workmanship by previous people who had all the right spanners but little grasp of what they were actually doing. Keith seems to be somewhere on that spectrum in that he more or less knows what to do but cannot portray himself as truly competent to be an instructor and an example to those who wish to learn. In the meantime those chuck components are still wearing out!
Use something softer than steel (you allen wrench) to punch parts apart. It's bad practice and you get small dents if the punched part happens to be cast iron ;-)
WD stands for water displacement developed in 1940 for drying out distributors in military vehicles. It has varnish in it so after multiple applications the object will get a red tint. I used to work in a gun shop and customer would bring in a red colored semiauto rifle complaining it had stopped working. A soak in the ultrasonic cleaner and some customer education took care of the problem.
The "40" doesn't have anything to do with 1940. It is the 40th formulation. It was developed in the 1950s.
The manufacturer says you're full of shit. www.wd40.com/history/
Hey Keith, nice video like always! You should be happy with the two "Röhm" chucks... they are one manufacturer of premium chucks of all kinds in Germany and are around since 1909. I guess they know what they are doing and I'm interested what your setup and test will tell you (runout etc.). Have fun with your new toys. ;)
a little tip for those tight slip fits, if you throw the inner part in the freezer for a little bit, it will open the clearances a couple tenths and parts drop tofether nicely. i do dissasemble/clean on all my chucks when they come of to load collet noses. i had a tech twist a plunger in a power chuck and i spent 2 hours stoning the burr he created. i used the same trick rebuilding an 8000 rpm lathe spindle with boiling the bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner(in a bag)
If you forget and it evaporates you can just add water. The chemical in the evaporust is not subject to evaporation. What out with some drills and hex keys. The evaporust work by pulling the 02 out of the rush and leaving the iron in the bottom of the pan. It does the same thing with Black oxide. If you reuse product you can dye a part with the black oxide from a previous project
I have found that a little bit of orange glow citrus furniture polish and a red 3m scratch bright helps with the stains on a chuck. I've cleaned up a 3 jaw chuck that I just inherited from my brother. See if it will work for you.
Use Dove detergent to help get the grease and oil off the stuff. Flash rust may happen. Well, you end up with two like new and one serviceable chucks. Thanks for sharing the demonstration, very interesting, Greg.
Great video! The chucks all came out looking good and very serviceable. Thanx for the tutorial.
This is a great video, thank you for sharing. I got a used lathe a while ago, and the 4 jaw chuck is about as worn as the 6 jaw on yours. I also have a 3 jaw scroll style for my wood lathe- it's pretty new still, but I may need to take it apart some day.
Keith: Glad those shop rags came in handy. Another batch is coming your way, should be there Monday. You might look into a product called Dri Slide. It's molybdenum disulphide in an alcohol vehicle. Not good for rust displacement, but a great dry lube. Jon
Your 6-jaw is about 5 years older than me, but seems less worn out. Sometimes I wish I was made of steel.
yeah but rust in your bits isnt good, plus the relatives are always keeping a close eye on the price for scrap iron
It would be possible to think about the cold and starry and put 3 kulochkovy in the honey part and again vygledet dostoin.ya about his who is the one pulled in the garage of the first father, it's just our joint history of chistoplyuystva go to tago that people are losing their own earnings but you ponimaesh.
Dear Keith, very nice video, to cleen the big cluch in external: VD40 and scotchbrite green soft turning tool start slow and perfect. Best regards from Switzerland,
The reason the six jaw chuck is more tired is that it is that it can be “bucked” (adjust center). It can also hold onto tubing with less distortion. They are typically less robust than a three jaw.
Thank you, Sir!
Fascinating presentation! I always wondered how they work !!
Keep up the good work!
The WD in WD-40 actually means water displacement. It was developed for use in rocket fuel tanks.
Good Job! I use the evapo rust on some antique planes and it does work really well.
I've striped and cleaned some chucks its surprising the different construction on some
I hear you puffing as you go ,you and I both need to loose some weight lol .top vid, good stuff I love tools as you do sir
I did the same mistake with my chuck. And funny thing is i had watched a chuck disassembly a few hours earlier. I think i chicken scratched my head for half an hour before i remembered the thing-a-majigs have to come out as well. :))
Nice one, there's no better feeling than working with a clean, crisp chuck. Even if it's a bit older, it's the sentiment that counts.
First time i've seen a sleeved chuck...i wonder if that's factory. Well, not in that fashion, i know someone who has a chuck that allows you to sleeve the back end for collets.
brilliant video, thanks so much... just done the same job myself but wish I'd had evapo rust, I had to use elbow grease which is not good on chucks and stuff. Such style you have.
A bit of de-rusting on the chuck key wouldn't go amiss!
Pull apart, de-rust and reassemble. Sounds easy when you say it.. then the work :D nice job.
Only thing I would suggest is fitting the chuck to the lathe and getting it all run in true there when you put the body back together.
Sure it will be out when you remove the chuck and reinstall it, but at least you are pretty close and should only have to do a little work next time.
THX for this practical vid.I also have some of this German RÖHM chucks.Stephan
Another great video , always informative , reminders are always good , and new tools to me 😎👍👍
G’day Keith and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 I found that very interesting love the shop regards John
Good vids and nice cleanup, evaporust rules but, I have the same reaction as a few others when it comes to knocking the scroll out with the alan..... Brass brass and brass !!!! There are some that use grease some use oil..... Grease is never a good deal on a chuck :)
Very interesting Keith. That six-jaw is an impressive looking piece of tooling.
Since the scroll in this chuck is a spiral, the spiral is at a different radius from the center at any one time for each jaw, if the jaws were not made with offset scroll threading, they would rest at different radii from each other. Therefore the numbered jaws and the need for jaws to be a matched set, probably matched to each scroll too.
Awesome to see, first time i'v seen inside a chuck before.
Nice informative lesson on the chucks,
I was taught to tighten all scroll points with the T wrench to balance the strain on the rack inside and not all pressure on one spot.
Awesome video! I learned alot, I didn't know how those worked.
Thanks Keith. Another great video. Really enjoyed learning how a 6 jaw chuck worked. 👍 Cheers Mick
I ordered Evap-o-Rust today. I've got a six-jaw I'll have to clean after grinding and a three jaw apart now going through what we see in this video.
I think you`ll find that they are numbered not for tolerance but have been "weight" tuned for for that position for chuck balance.
Workshop sinks.. Well worth any extra plumbing to keep others who live in the same house happy.
Greasy parts in the laundry/kitchen/bathroom sinks are nearly universally frowned apon. :)
One can earn many points for coming into the house with clean hands after working in the shop.
Lovely job Keith. I haven't seen a six jaw chuck before, let alone used one. I must agree with someone else's comment, a brass drift would have been a better choice to get the ring gear out. All primed and ready to go. Cant beat a good drop of lube in the moving bits.
Des.
Great share Keith , They sure look great after the clean up man .. Thumbs up !!
Thanks for another video, looking forward to how they do on the machine. I should give the same treatment to my chucks.
Educational, entertaining and evaporust. What more could a fella want with his morning cuppa :)
Kieth,,,on the 6 jaw chuck,,,you needed to put the key in the Evapo-rust rust also,, good job buddy
Very enjoyable viewing, Keith
I mount my chucks on the spindle without the jaws in them and spin them while using emery cloth on the face and the outside. Then I polish them to look like new. The only chuck that lathe didn't come with is a wood chuck.
Thanks! Enjoyed and learned. Like your Eagle #66 oiler, too!
Don't forget to stand out of the way when you first put 'em on the lathe and fire it up. Otherwise you'll get a nice oil stripe across your body.
That six jaw really socked into the compound. You can see the edge/corner hit hard right where the jaw grooves are, and then around the entire edge. I think the chuck got the better of the confrontation.
Hi Keith, I think you should let abom make for your 6 jaw chuck a new pinion and when you put it back together grease the darn thing so it will last.
I love your restoration videos mr Rucker. I know you don't fancy them as much as I do, but I hope you will do a series of them anyway. :)
The chucks looks great.
Congratulations with your German Rohm chuck, they are top quality.
Nice Keith, looks like you have nice lathe and chucks in good condition, I wish it were mine! Thank you again!
I like transplanting long allen keys into allen sockets or renewing worn ones. Tough to drill allen keys, but that’s what carbide is for. I bet a taper pin would be a good transplant if you do not fling them out with an impact wrench.
I like the lighting in the last few videos. I'm guessing you have the roll up door open and the reflected sunlight is doing a nice job as a fill. (It could be you've been doing this for as long as you've been doing videos in the new shop I may not have taken notice. As a videographer I appreciate when people try to utilise/boost natural light sources. And yes, I'm watching this at 4am my time, I can't sleep.)
Are you beating on that scroll with a Allen wrench?
Clayton Parks in Keith's defence on a lot of larger chucks the scroll will be hard and it will probably cause very minimal or no damage
Clayton Parks that made me laugh, just after taking it apart carefully and saying he doesn't want to break it. He used a Allen key as a punch haha. I've noticed a few times he does stuff like that I'm sure on the lathe resto he used a sledgehammer when re-assembling it lol. Love his videos though and wouldn't hesitate in buying a used machine from him.
I cringed a little too, but, he didn't have to hit it very hard.
I use brass or copper, and gently tap close to the bore of the scroll all the way around so it doesn't bind. That's just me, I start gentle, then work my way up to 800lb gorilla mode slowly by trying lots of stuff. Better to be patient and reduce the chances of ending up with a paperweight.
Get used to it. If you've watched many of his videos, he's always beating on feed gears, gearbox shafts, chucks...most everything with two-pound hammers! It's all in how you were taught I suppose. Where I went to school every machine had a lead hammer in the chip pan. If you got caught whacking something with a machinist hammer, or tapping-off your file on the ways, you got a day off.
The three jaw was interesting because the back plate was so strong it didn’t need the three centre bolts. All mine have a back plate and then an adapter plate to mount on the lathe.
I'm glad he made it till the end! Keith, take a deap breath and relax.... :-)
A Google search for "6 jaw chuck 5127" came up with a Buck 12" Adjust-Tru Scroll Chuck. It is a 6 jaw with some pictures that look similar. Hopefully that gives you a start for finding a replacement pinion, assuming my Google-Fu is strong.
Good job !
Back in the '70s when we ran into metric Allen heads in the body shop, I would use aluminum foil to shim my closest SAE to fit the Allen heads. It always worked. Keith you had a little on your upper lip there at the end. LOL Been looking at several different scroll chuck refurbs. Some use heavy machine oil, some use grease, on the gear drive. I guess there is no hard and fast rule on it.
No grease on the ring gear?
grease is a bad idea, dirt and chips stick to it and will gum it up
At 20:20, the worms that drive the jaws look like they could be anti-backlash worms, where each worm is actually constructed of two worms fixed together. You can change their relationship to take backlash out, like is done with a split straight cut gear. In this case, it would matter which jaw is paired up with a particular worm. Anyway, just a suspicion. I like the Evapo stuff. It seems like it might be like another similar product called CLR
I know that it’s five years later, but that key get wire brushed yet? Analytics you know……. Those chucks are looking great!
It's a Buck 5127 12 inch, 6-Jaw Chuck with six external jaws and socket cap mounting screws.
Have any one of you guys ever thought about making a chuck from scratch? Having seen the inner workings of it, now I feel more confident in undertaking this adventure. I think I'm gonna make a wooden one first as a prototype. What do you guys think?
I like to use Metal Prep to clean rust and tune it up with muriatic acid (HCL) when it gets weak. The Metal Prep leaves a nice phosphate coating for items you want to paint. Do not dissolve your fingers!
Ah love that six jaw '74 ... me all happy ...my birthyear !..lol
Last i came about a 4 jaw "ROHM" chuck , it was in very good state and only costed 150 euro 175 $...i did buyed it ..but i am sorry since .
grtzz from the Netherlands
Johny Geerts
Best video for ages!
You are a brave soul. If I did that it would be two chucks wasted
Being a RÖHM chuck is the reason why the back allen cap screws were 10mm Metric... RÖHM is a German company and that chuck probably was made in Germany
The strongest chuck in the world has only 2 jaws, the brand is... Norris if I remember
2 jaws are hard to center though.
@@danishpuma Nobody can center as well as Chuck Norris. In fact, he is the center of the universe, everything revolves around him !
What a difference cleaning makes. I need to do mine, too.
the 6 jaw is a 12" buck set tru chuck i think they still sell that model for around 2k but you can get parts if ya need .