@@Samcraftcom the steel was softer than I expected. They are great the full frame was my duty gun for years and I also own the subcompact it was my backup weapon.
You could re-blue your slide w/ some cold blueing solution, a good one from Brownells would probably even out the laser engraving? Afterwards - a lacquer stick to "Color in" the etching; works good on spare magazines, too. I like the white. Ren wax, good stuff. I recently used it on my Model 1860 Cavalry sabre conservation project. It's even used on paper documents to conserve & protect from environmental damage & so on. You have easily a multi-generational supply there!
the only cold product that I personally know of (and have used) that works on stainless steel is called "ni-black 40" made by sur fin, it's not super durable (rubs off of knife blades when carried in the pocket for extended times) but in the depths of engraving it'll hold up just fine.
Have you done anymore firearm related engraving? If so, are you happy with the results? I have an FFL and looking to get an engraver to be able to do NFA engravings among other things. Everywhere I look online people are recommending 50W fiber lasers minimum. The F1 Ultra seemed appealing to me with how easy it appears to use. I would love you opinion on if you think the 20W Fiber laser is more than enough to do these engravings. Thank you! Excellent video!
No but I have considered getting my FFL because I have been getting asked a lot and my understanding is its required to have to do gun engravings. Then I heard it's not if you only engraving uppers and I have a friend who is pretty high up at ATF and I plan to ask them when I get a chance. I want to make sure I am not breaking the law before i add it to my site as a service. Where are you located what state?
I do believe its more than enough my understanding is yes the have a amount it suppose to go into the gun but from the little I looked into it the F1 Ultra is very capable of going the required amount. I do understand why people say the 50W would be better because you can do all kinds of cool engravings on weapons with that much power but the 20W IMO has plenty of power to engrave guns. Most of my request I have gotten have been to put the required numbers on parts for home made AR's I don't know enough to talk the requirements at all. I was a cop in NJ a state that hates weapons and getting an FFL was near impossible in NJ. Now I am in VA and the are better but the area I am in of Northern VA still is a little bit to much like NJ even though the State of VA is much more Gun Friendly
@@ALXSHARPEN I am located in Arizona. As far as needing an FFL, this would be the case if you were to "Take possession" of the firearm. If it is only an upper receiver, that is not legally classified as a firearm so I do not see how you would be legally required to have an FFL to take those in. The question I would ask your ATF friend is if even a full firearm it never leaves the person's possession if that is okay. I.E. They are with you while you are doing the engraving. However, this still may be classified as "gun smithing" which would require your FFL. Right now, the engravers I'm considering are the F1 Ultra, the Cloudray QS-50, and Monport GA 30/60. They are all somewhat similar in price. The F1 Ultra appears to have the most beginner friendly setup, having the camera and software. I imagine I would be using Lightburn for most applications anyway. I would probably end up doing other side projects like small keychains or something else like that as well. Having the ability to do the more intricate designs on the stainless steel would be nice in the future, so it this may be a situation where I go the extra mile now so I don't have to buy the higher power laser later down the road...
@@kvernesdotten i could re blue it or another cool option would be to fill it with powder coat of any color and heat it till the powder coat melted in the engraving that looks really cool and very easy to do
In general cleaning pass is 40 to 50% less than your engraving pass so it’s not a special feature. It’s just running an additional pass at about half or a little less than half the power.
@@Semper-Fidelity in general a cleaning pass is just a pass at 40-50 % less than your engraving pass. It does change the engraving look a bit so if it’s black it will be more a flat black so sometimes I don’t do them if I want it dark
Wow! I was on the fence, but this pushed me over. Thanks for sharing! Also, for anyone else who is looking to do this, whatever laser you are looking to buy, it needs to be a FIBER laser. The one in this gentleman's video is the F1 ULTRA, which is a 20W fiber laser. The F1 is an infrared.
There are two F1s models. One is a 2 Watt IR and 10 Watt Blue. They are around $1,199 This one I used was the F1 Ultra and it's a 20Watt Fiber and a 20 Watt Blue laser and it's $3699 for black friday and that's good i paid over 4K when I got mine
This is precisely the video I was looking for. THANK YOU!
Did you ever get around to trying the lighter settings?
Wow, that was pretty easy! Awesome job! I like my M&Ps as well -- great durable pew pews. :)
@@Samcraftcom the steel was softer than I expected. They are great the full frame was my duty gun for years and I also own the subcompact it was my backup weapon.
Thank you! I just used your settings for a project!
You could re-blue your slide w/ some cold blueing solution, a good one from Brownells would probably even out the laser engraving?
Afterwards - a lacquer stick to "Color in" the etching; works good on spare magazines, too. I like the white.
Ren wax, good stuff. I recently used it on my Model 1860 Cavalry sabre conservation project. It's even used on paper documents to conserve & protect from environmental damage & so on. You have easily a multi-generational supply there!
the only cold product that I personally know of (and have used) that works on stainless steel is called "ni-black 40" made by sur fin, it's not super durable (rubs off of knife blades when carried in the pocket for extended times) but in the depths of engraving it'll hold up just fine.
Question:
Where’d you get the clamp from? I just ordered the f1 ultra and have four coworkers who want their slides done
Looks great! Does the older engraving have a dye on it?
Not that I know of
Have you done anymore firearm related engraving? If so, are you happy with the results? I have an FFL and looking to get an engraver to be able to do NFA engravings among other things. Everywhere I look online people are recommending 50W fiber lasers minimum. The F1 Ultra seemed appealing to me with how easy it appears to use. I would love you opinion on if you think the 20W Fiber laser is more than enough to do these engravings.
Thank you! Excellent video!
No but I have considered getting my FFL because I have been getting asked a lot and my understanding is its required to have to do gun engravings. Then I heard it's not if you only engraving uppers and I have a friend who is pretty high up at ATF and I plan to ask them when I get a chance. I want to make sure I am not breaking the law before i add it to my site as a service. Where are you located what state?
I do believe its more than enough my understanding is yes the have a amount it suppose to go into the gun but from the little I looked into it the F1 Ultra is very capable of going the required amount. I do understand why people say the 50W would be better because you can do all kinds of cool engravings on weapons with that much power but the 20W IMO has plenty of power to engrave guns. Most of my request I have gotten have been to put the required numbers on parts for home made AR's I don't know enough to talk the requirements at all. I was a cop in NJ a state that hates weapons and getting an FFL was near impossible in NJ. Now I am in VA and the are better but the area I am in of Northern VA still is a little bit to much like NJ even though the State of VA is much more Gun Friendly
@@ALXSHARPEN I am located in Arizona. As far as needing an FFL, this would be the case if you were to "Take possession" of the firearm. If it is only an upper receiver, that is not legally classified as a firearm so I do not see how you would be legally required to have an FFL to take those in. The question I would ask your ATF friend is if even a full firearm it never leaves the person's possession if that is okay. I.E. They are with you while you are doing the engraving. However, this still may be classified as "gun smithing" which would require your FFL.
Right now, the engravers I'm considering are the F1 Ultra, the Cloudray QS-50, and Monport GA 30/60. They are all somewhat similar in price. The F1 Ultra appears to have the most beginner friendly setup, having the camera and software. I imagine I would be using Lightburn for most applications anyway. I would probably end up doing other side projects like small keychains or something else like that as well.
Having the ability to do the more intricate designs on the stainless steel would be nice in the future, so it this may be a situation where I go the extra mile now so I don't have to buy the higher power laser later down the road...
Are you going to try and laser stipple the frame?
Would inking the engraving work out well? Kinda like those Milwaukee sockets
@@kvernesdotten i could re blue it or another cool option would be to fill it with powder coat of any color and heat it till the powder coat melted in the engraving that looks really cool and very easy to do
@@ALXSHARPEN Oh wow thats advanced haha
Can the F1 do a "cleaning" pass after the engraving? I know some of the fiber lasers do that.
In general cleaning pass is 40 to 50% less than your engraving pass so it’s not a special feature. It’s just running an additional pass at about half or a little less than half the power.
@@Semper-Fidelity in general a cleaning pass is just a pass at 40-50 % less than your engraving pass. It does change the engraving look a bit so if it’s black it will be more a flat black so sometimes I don’t do them if I want it dark
Hpw many watts is the laser you’re using?
the specs on the Xtool F1 show it as a 20W fiber (and 20W diode) laser
Wow! I was on the fence, but this pushed me over. Thanks for sharing! Also, for anyone else who is looking to do this, whatever laser you are looking to buy, it needs to be a FIBER laser. The one in this gentleman's video is the F1 ULTRA, which is a 20W fiber laser. The F1 is an infrared.
There are two F1s models. One is a 2 Watt IR and 10 Watt Blue. They are around $1,199 This one I used was the F1 Ultra and it's a 20Watt Fiber and a 20 Watt Blue laser and it's $3699 for black friday and that's good i paid over 4K when I got mine
Link to the upcoming sales www.xtool.com/?ref=j27a8sy1&
@@veemuhnee5309 f1 isn't only ir