I concur completely. I knew this mitigation was possible and that someone would figure it out, vid and post it. Thank you. I have two legacy Scorpions and this illustrated maintainance is fabulous. I think if this had been done on new Scorpions, we would have never even had to have this procedure post firing. Bolt and hammer wear is normal on almost all semi-autos. I have not fired either of my guns but I am doing this before I do and I bet this will never become an issue in the first place. I think the somewhat softer bolt is mechanically appropriate for an action that operates inside polymere anyway. Routine inspection of the internals of any firearm should be SOP. THANKS //ji
Woah I have not heard of this problem with the new Evo 3+. Would you please provide more information about the failure? Also have you contacted CZ and heard a reply?
@@EngineersArmory wasn’t mine, buddy shooting the local match. No video or anything. He was shooting some rapid doubles on a target array and there was a catastrophic failure that resulted in the left side of the receiver blowing out. He sent it back to CZ and they did not provide any further explanation as to why just that it exploded and they were replacing it. He had expressed a few weeks prior that he bought the new one and expected it to be improved from the earlier versions. Such that it wouldn’t suffer from this sort of thing you detail in the video. Very unlikely that he had even 1000 rounds in it yet.
@@ACxREALThats wild! thanks for sharing. I wonder what the failure was that caused the OOB detonation. Presumably there wasn't enough rounds thru it yet to peen the FPSB down into the bolt. Very odd.
@@EngineersArmory indeed, lots of head scratching going on. two of us there also have scorpions so we had a chance to take a look and do some wondering. No idea really. I do think it was reloads but it appeared to be a OOBD and I didn’t see anything that stood out as to why. If I get a chance to make a video I may ask his permission to share the photos.
Do you think a shim near the take down pin that people use to tighten up the fit between the lower and upper would help reduce risk of safety block being pushed in since the shim would add 1mm more space between the upper and lower?
Not likely. What causes the damage to the firing pin safety block and the hole it goes in is the hammer. The hammer will still be contacting it with about the same spring force regardless of that extra 1mm gap. That extra 1mm should also not prevent the firing pin safety block from being disengaged all the way by the lifter in the trigger pack.
@ Thanks. Yeah, I never measured the depth needed for the safety to be disengaged. It doesn’t seem like much if a peened lip on the bolt would cause it to be low enough to stay disengaged. But any extra clearance from the lower’s trigger safety block actuator would be good in my opinion, especially during rapid fire where the vibration from the lower’s trigger actuator may bounce the safety block down since it is riding on a spring.
@@EngineersArmory I have about 300 rounds through my legacy Evo 3. I have bolt and hammer peening and I do not abuse the Evo. This is my coyote eliminator. I ordered a Nexus Bolt but I do not feel comfortable shooting this anymore. Thinking about an HK SP5 and not looking back...
Are you going to apply your favorite Moly grease to those rubbing contact surfaces ? And will you show us the condition if this area after another 1,500 rounds ? That. Would be great 👍
Molybdenum grease would be great for this application except for one thing... Too close to combustion particulates. In my experience grease that gets exposed to enough powder residue over time gets sticky and gummy and it can affect operation. These parts will just be liberally oiled. I will make myself a note to try and make an update video down the road. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Huh I’ve got some adjacent experience with a detonation a few weeks ago. I’ve considered doing some sort of mods to the bolt or hammer to try to mitigate the chance of an issue. Just started the video…
No, my guns stay well oiled like they ought to. During normal operation all firearms will wear the finish off the internals in some places which will open them up to the posibility of corrosion. Another reason we need to oil out firearms for proper operation and longevity.
its funny everytime anything negative comes out about the nexus bolt on the sub they lock and bury the threads. Id be willing to bet he offered you some free stuff, too. "in show of good faith" lmao ive been there before
😬☝ I think they got people scared their Scorpion will randomly have an OOB detonation and blow up in their face. With the deformation on my bolt before this work I wouldn't expect it to cause issues with the FPSB until maybe 10k rounds if I left it. Of course there will be variation in the hardness of the bolts and how they wear and deform from gun to gun, but it seems for this to become and issue it would take thousands of rounds and someone NEVER looking at the condition of the internals of the firearm for the OOB detonation to become a possibility. But hey, at the end of the day they offer a product and people can choose to by it or not, more power to them.
I'm not going to comment anymore on Nexus firearms or their product as I have no first hand experience. But a Nexus firearms rep is a moderator of that subreddit...suspect.
The OWNER is a moderator, and the other mod, "Moriend" is one of the original "beta testers" dude got a bolt with his name engraved. among other free stuff cody offered to us beta testers to shill for him. They threatened to sue me for posting the review i did because it shed light on the issues i was experiancing. now all of their shills are making fake review posts there lmao@@EngineersArmory
I’ve been doing a lot of research on this problem and it seems in every post the manufacturer of Nexus is hiding in the comments somewhere. Maybe even stirring the pot to create fear of a problem that they magically has the solution for. I’m trying hard to find a honest review of this problem without someone being an affiliate of Nexus. I must say it ingenious marketing.
They do come in select fire, those versions would only be available to LE and military. I do not know if the bolt material is the same or not. The select fire versions have an auto sear in them that acts as a safety to prevent out of battery detonation and I am pretty sure they do not have a firing pin safety block. They added the FPSB and lifter to the trigger pack on the civilian version becuase they do not have the auto sear that disconnects the trigger until the bolt is in battery.
For my purpose, yes. I don't think the severity of the damage/wear I see on my bolt warrants a $250-399 replacement bolt. I am comfortable with what I have done to my bolt and will continue to monitor for more damage/deformation and firing pin block function. Every individual should asses the severity of the damage to their factory bolt and what they feel comfortable and safe with. Maybe the Nexus bolt will give some people peace of mind.
Havent shot it much since I did this. Maybe 200 rounds. Still looks the same. I am keeping track of round count and will update once I get closer to 1000.
Scorpions are money pits. Straight up project guns. I regret all the money I sank into mine... including the enanced Nexus bolt assembly, which I haven't even bothered to run yet..and it's been in there for over 6 months. 🤣
All my guns are money pits😎 I upgraded this one how I wanted. Runs good. Fun to shoot. SBR was unneccesary based on the flip flopping of the brace bans which is annoying as hell haha
That would certainly help and I think a lot of people neglect that. I have certainly done that on this gun and still got the minimal distortion shown in the video. But I would call it minimal. i lube that sucker up before ever range trip/every ~200 rounds. What I show in this video should just be that little extra bit of mitigation I want, and it took me all of 30 minutes, some elbow grease, and using tools I already had.
Not true in the case of this gun. I own one myself.. the bolt is made of substandard steel. My scorpion had less than 500 rounds through it when I noticed unusual wear on the bolt, and the beginning of peening around the pin block.
It’s too bad CZ will not simply fix this problem for an otherwise awesome firearm. Too many other reliable PCCs out there from S&W, Ruger, Sig, etc. without this problem. Not even lowly (
It's a untreated block of steel. Not nitrated and not forged steel. You wouldn't have been able to grind it down that easy with a Dremel tool if it was nitridated. It's supposed to be forged steel/tool steel but CZ said to themselves, them gun toting American citizens don't need a quality bolt. I doubt they use the same bolt and hammer steel for their full auto military and police contracts. The ultra thin surface of Hardened/nitrated steel lacks the toughness and elastic properties of forged steel. AK47, ARs and pretty much all other iconic rifles use unhardened forged steel locking mechanisms because toughness and elastic properties is more important than surface hardness with a soft core that get smashed in with repeated impact forces.
The CZ bolt is definitely coated and I am pretty sure its nitride (it is absolutely not just an "untreated block of steel"). I would be surprised if its DLC, and it certainly doesn't look like or behave like bluing. However, whatever coating is on there is thin, which is why it was POLISHED (not grinded) off so easily. As for the material of the factory bolt, I am not sure. If you have more information on the material of the factory Scorpion bolt I would love to hear it. My guess is 1045, or a 300 series stainless with nitride finish. Not sure if its forged or not, what heat treat they use, etc. The comparison to the AK and AR is not apples to apples as those forged bolts and carriers have locking features and are designed to deal with the MUCH higher pressures of the rifle cartridges. The job this direct blow back (not locked breach) 9mm (handgun not rifle cartridge) bolt needs to do is much less demanding than what an AR or AK bolt needs to do, and the forces they regularly see. This is not a rifle, its a PCC/SMG so the requirements of the hardware is much different than a rifle. I am also not familiar enough wit the material specs of the AK and AR bolts to speak on that. While the heat treatment post forging may not be specifically for hardening the material, forging (of steels) almost always required heat treatment to relieve internal stresses from the forging process and create the desired material properties. I agree the material of the factory bolt needs to be harder. I would be blown away if they had two separate manufacturing lines for these bolts, one for the SMG and one for civilian use/American market just to spite us. That doesn't pencil out in terms of cost, incoming materials, work flow etc. These bolts are all the same material, processes, etc. and that's just how they are. You seems to know a lot about the Scorpion so I would love to hear your experience with them. Sounds like if you do own a Scorpion you would have the Nexus bolt in there. That bolt is much harder and heat treated (although not forged). Please do share more!
@@EngineersArmory There is a big difference between a coating and chemically changing the metal surface with processes like nitriding, Tenifer, Melonite, nitro carburizing and more names. All methods archive the same thing, which is to infuse nitrogen into the metal. The depth ranges from 0.008-0.040". A coating just sits on the metal. If the Scorpion bolt was nitrided or made of stainless, cold blue wouldn't work on it due to the corrosion resistance. And you wouldn't have been able to chamfer it with your Dremel if it was nitrided. The scorpion bolt takes on cold blue very nicely, which means the bolt has not been nitrided. It's just blued man. It's not even the correct forged steel because you wouldn't see such horrible metal deformations. It's a crappy made bolt. And yes, I had a scorpion pistol in FDE and sold it after shooting a box of 100 Blazers though it. I noticed right away what was going on when I cleaned it. No way I throw money at this POS by buying an "advanced" bolt. Forged is the only way to go on these firearm parts, it doesn't matter if it's a 9mm or a AK47. Everything else doesn't last including nitrided/hardened steel. Nitrided steel properties are excellent for heavy sliding forces and corrosion resistance. The core is still too soft for absorbing high impact forces because it lacks the toughness and elasticity of forged steel.
@@702Wolfi Ya got me on the semantics of coating vs nitride, etc. Check your coating thickness measurements too 8-40 thou IS HUGE. Nitride generally ends up .0005" or less (half thou). And yea long and short of it is the bolt material should be different, its not quite right for this application. It will also vary from gun to gun how bad and quick the damage results from use. In general the damage isn't terrible, and I don't think that makes the gun a POS or make me feel some sort of way about CZ as a company. In mine after ~2k rounds the damage wasn't that big of a concern. I wouldn't imagine most guns would see an issue until 10k rounds. But I am sure there are some guns out there that the bolt damage was causing issues or starting to around 2k rounds or less.
@@EngineersArmory The old molten cyanide salt bath nitrogen infusion process Glock used many years ago went ~0.070 deep. A tourist gun range in Las Vegas had 4 scorpion pistols available to shoot for tourists. All of them began failing to ignite the primer because the deformed hammer wouldn't transfer enough energy to the firing pin. Granted, all had more than 10k rounds fired if I recall correctly.
@@702Wolfi After 10k rounds most guns are going to need some TLC. I suppose I would just look at the bolt and it components as a "wear item" at that point. Oh well, everyone can have their own use cases and what they deem acceptable. Molten salt bath nitriding thickness is generally 5-15 microns which is .0002"-.0006". Two to six ten thou. You're about 2 orders of magnitude off.
This is easily the best explanation of the issue I've seen, thank you!
I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I concur completely. I knew this mitigation was possible and that someone would figure it out, vid and post it.
Thank you. I have two legacy Scorpions and this illustrated maintainance is fabulous.
I think if this had been done on new Scorpions, we would have never even had to have this procedure post firing.
Bolt and hammer wear is normal on almost all semi-autos. I have not fired either of my guns but I am doing this before I do and I bet this will never become an issue in the first place. I think the somewhat softer bolt is mechanically appropriate for an action that operates inside polymere anyway.
Routine inspection of the internals of any firearm should be SOP. THANKS //ji
100% agree with you! I am glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the great content. Much appreciated.👍
Most welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Smarty R 😮😮@@EngineersArmory
Exactly what I imagined I would have done in this situation
This gun that blew up was the latest version of the evo3 with hardly any rounds on it so no issue with the bolt wearing down or anything like that.
Woah I have not heard of this problem with the new Evo 3+. Would you please provide more information about the failure? Also have you contacted CZ and heard a reply?
@@EngineersArmory wasn’t mine, buddy shooting the local match. No video or anything. He was shooting some rapid doubles on a target array and there was a catastrophic failure that resulted in the left side of the receiver blowing out. He sent it back to CZ and they did not provide any further explanation as to why just that it exploded and they were replacing it. He had expressed a few weeks prior that he bought the new one and expected it to be improved from the earlier versions. Such that it wouldn’t suffer from this sort of thing you detail in the video. Very unlikely that he had even 1000 rounds in it yet.
@@ACxREALThats wild! thanks for sharing. I wonder what the failure was that caused the OOB detonation. Presumably there wasn't enough rounds thru it yet to peen the FPSB down into the bolt. Very odd.
@@EngineersArmory indeed, lots of head scratching going on. two of us there also have scorpions so we had a chance to take a look and do some wondering. No idea really. I do think it was reloads but it appeared to be a OOBD and I didn’t see anything that stood out as to why. If I get a chance to make a video I may ask his permission to share the photos.
@@ACxREALThat would be awesome if you made a video out of it. Thats a weird one!
Great video, I did the same improvements to mine a couple of years ago.
Do you think a shim near the take down pin that people use to tighten up the fit between the lower and upper would help reduce risk of safety block being pushed in since the shim would add 1mm more space between the upper and lower?
Not likely. What causes the damage to the firing pin safety block and the hole it goes in is the hammer. The hammer will still be contacting it with about the same spring force regardless of that extra 1mm gap.
That extra 1mm should also not prevent the firing pin safety block from being disengaged all the way by the lifter in the trigger pack.
@ Thanks. Yeah, I never measured the depth needed for the safety to be disengaged. It doesn’t seem like much if a peened lip on the bolt would cause it to be low enough to stay disengaged. But any extra clearance from the lower’s trigger safety block actuator would be good in my opinion, especially during rapid fire where the vibration from the lower’s trigger actuator may bounce the safety block down since it is riding on a spring.
Do you have a 1 year follow-up on this mitigation/polishing? Did it stay smooth, get any worse?
Nope sorry no update yet. Only a few hundred rounds, no change so far. Keeping track if round count and planning on updating around 1k.
@@EngineersArmory I have about 300 rounds through my legacy Evo 3. I have bolt and hammer peening and I do not abuse the Evo. This is my coyote eliminator. I ordered a Nexus Bolt but I do not feel comfortable shooting this anymore. Thinking about an HK SP5 and not looking back...
@engineersarmory any updates on this? How’s it holding up? How’s the wear?
Only a couple hundred rounds thru it. No change. Planning on making an update video when it gets to 1000. Havent been shooting it much.
Are you going to apply your favorite Moly grease to those rubbing contact surfaces ? And will you show us the condition if this area after another 1,500 rounds ? That. Would be great 👍
Molybdenum grease would be great for this application except for one thing... Too close to combustion particulates. In my experience grease that gets exposed to enough powder residue over time gets sticky and gummy and it can affect operation. These parts will just be liberally oiled. I will make myself a note to try and make an update video down the road. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Huh I’ve got some adjacent experience with a detonation a few weeks ago. I’ve considered doing some sort of mods to the bolt or hammer to try to mitigate the chance of an issue. Just started the video…
What was the extent of the damage? Total loss? Injury? I was going to put a binary trigger in soon, but then I heard the detonation stories.
@@poopooplatter7271 case rupture, receiver side blown out. No injuries CZ replaced the firearm it was toast.
I would like to see an update in another 1k rounds
Hi, do you have problems with rust on polished palaces? Have you protected it?
No, my guns stay well oiled like they ought to. During normal operation all firearms will wear the finish off the internals in some places which will open them up to the posibility of corrosion. Another reason we need to oil out firearms for proper operation and longevity.
@@EngineersArmory thx for your explanation, just wanted to know you have done for example oxidation. Regards
@@mariuszb1048 Yeah no problem!
its funny everytime anything negative comes out about the nexus bolt on the sub they lock and bury the threads.
Id be willing to bet he offered you some free stuff, too. "in show of good faith" lmao ive been there before
😬☝ I think they got people scared their Scorpion will randomly have an OOB detonation and blow up in their face. With the deformation on my bolt before this work I wouldn't expect it to cause issues with the FPSB until maybe 10k rounds if I left it. Of course there will be variation in the hardness of the bolts and how they wear and deform from gun to gun, but it seems for this to become and issue it would take thousands of rounds and someone NEVER looking at the condition of the internals of the firearm for the OOB detonation to become a possibility. But hey, at the end of the day they offer a product and people can choose to by it or not, more power to them.
I'm not going to comment anymore on Nexus firearms or their product as I have no first hand experience. But a Nexus firearms rep is a moderator of that subreddit...suspect.
The OWNER is a moderator, and the other mod, "Moriend" is one of the original "beta testers" dude got a bolt with his name engraved. among other free stuff cody offered to us beta testers to shill for him. They threatened to sue me for posting the review i did because it shed light on the issues i was experiancing. now all of their shills are making fake review posts there lmao@@EngineersArmory
I’ve been doing a lot of research on this problem and it seems in every post the manufacturer of Nexus is hiding in the comments somewhere. Maybe even stirring the pot to create fear of a problem that they magically has the solution for. I’m trying hard to find a honest review of this problem without someone being an affiliate of Nexus. I must say it ingenious marketing.
Don't these come in full auto version? What kind of bolt are they using for the full autos?
They do come in select fire, those versions would only be available to LE and military. I do not know if the bolt material is the same or not. The select fire versions have an auto sear in them that acts as a safety to prevent out of battery detonation and I am pretty sure they do not have a firing pin safety block. They added the FPSB and lifter to the trigger pack on the civilian version becuase they do not have the auto sear that disconnects the trigger until the bolt is in battery.
Good Job !
Thanks!
Would this be a good alternative to the Nexus bolt?
For my purpose, yes. I don't think the severity of the damage/wear I see on my bolt warrants a $250-399 replacement bolt. I am comfortable with what I have done to my bolt and will continue to monitor for more damage/deformation and firing pin block function. Every individual should asses the severity of the damage to their factory bolt and what they feel comfortable and safe with. Maybe the Nexus bolt will give some people peace of mind.
@@EngineersArmory I’m thinking the Nexus is good for me 👍
@@mattwalters6834 well there is your answer haha. Certainly easier. Take the old one out put the new one in.
@@EngineersArmory totally 💯
Any update after 5 months?
Havent shot it much since I did this. Maybe 200 rounds. Still looks the same. I am keeping track of round count and will update once I get closer to 1000.
hello dear,can i buy it...just bolt
Scorpions are money pits.
Straight up project guns.
I regret all the money I sank into mine... including the enanced Nexus bolt assembly, which I haven't even bothered to run yet..and it's been in there for over 6 months. 🤣
All my guns are money pits😎 I upgraded this one how I wanted. Runs good. Fun to shoot. SBR was unneccesary based on the flip flopping of the brace bans which is annoying as hell haha
Clean your bolt every 500 rounds and lub it really good . And you should not have this happen
That would certainly help and I think a lot of people neglect that. I have certainly done that on this gun and still got the minimal distortion shown in the video. But I would call it minimal. i lube that sucker up before ever range trip/every ~200 rounds. What I show in this video should just be that little extra bit of mitigation I want, and it took me all of 30 minutes, some elbow grease, and using tools I already had.
Not true in the case of this gun. I own one myself.. the bolt is made of substandard steel. My scorpion had less than 500 rounds through it when I noticed unusual wear on the bolt, and the beginning of peening around the pin block.
It’s too bad CZ will not simply fix this problem for an otherwise awesome firearm. Too many other reliable PCCs out there from S&W, Ruger, Sig, etc. without this problem. Not even lowly (
AKV for the win so far. I only hate that it is a bit front heavy.
The Beretta CX4 Storm is also nice, no deformation of the bolt.
It's a untreated block of steel. Not nitrated and not forged steel. You wouldn't have been able to grind it down that easy with a Dremel tool if it was nitridated. It's supposed to be forged steel/tool steel but CZ said to themselves, them gun toting American citizens don't need a quality bolt. I doubt they use the same bolt and hammer steel for their full auto military and police contracts. The ultra thin surface of Hardened/nitrated steel lacks the toughness and elastic properties of forged steel. AK47, ARs and pretty much all other iconic rifles use unhardened forged steel locking mechanisms because toughness and elastic properties is more important than surface hardness with a soft core that get smashed in with repeated impact forces.
The CZ bolt is definitely coated and I am pretty sure its nitride (it is absolutely not just an "untreated block of steel"). I would be surprised if its DLC, and it certainly doesn't look like or behave like bluing. However, whatever coating is on there is thin, which is why it was POLISHED (not grinded) off so easily. As for the material of the factory bolt, I am not sure. If you have more information on the material of the factory Scorpion bolt I would love to hear it. My guess is 1045, or a 300 series stainless with nitride finish. Not sure if its forged or not, what heat treat they use, etc.
The comparison to the AK and AR is not apples to apples as those forged bolts and carriers have locking features and are designed to deal with the MUCH higher pressures of the rifle cartridges. The job this direct blow back (not locked breach) 9mm (handgun not rifle cartridge) bolt needs to do is much less demanding than what an AR or AK bolt needs to do, and the forces they regularly see. This is not a rifle, its a PCC/SMG so the requirements of the hardware is much different than a rifle. I am also not familiar enough wit the material specs of the AK and AR bolts to speak on that. While the heat treatment post forging may not be specifically for hardening the material, forging (of steels) almost always required heat treatment to relieve internal stresses from the forging process and create the desired material properties.
I agree the material of the factory bolt needs to be harder. I would be blown away if they had two separate manufacturing lines for these bolts, one for the SMG and one for civilian use/American market just to spite us. That doesn't pencil out in terms of cost, incoming materials, work flow etc. These bolts are all the same material, processes, etc. and that's just how they are.
You seems to know a lot about the Scorpion so I would love to hear your experience with them. Sounds like if you do own a Scorpion you would have the Nexus bolt in there. That bolt is much harder and heat treated (although not forged).
Please do share more!
@@EngineersArmory There is a big difference between a coating and chemically changing the metal surface with processes like nitriding, Tenifer, Melonite, nitro carburizing and more names. All methods archive the same thing, which is to infuse nitrogen into the metal. The depth ranges from 0.008-0.040".
A coating just sits on the metal. If the Scorpion bolt was nitrided or made of stainless, cold blue wouldn't work on it due to the corrosion resistance. And you wouldn't have been able to chamfer it with your Dremel if it was nitrided. The scorpion bolt takes on cold blue very nicely, which means the bolt has not been nitrided. It's just blued man. It's not even the correct forged steel because you wouldn't see such horrible metal deformations.
It's a crappy made bolt. And yes, I had a scorpion pistol in FDE and sold it after shooting a box of 100 Blazers though it. I noticed right away what was going on when I cleaned it. No way I throw money at this POS by buying an "advanced" bolt. Forged is the only way to go on these firearm parts, it doesn't matter if it's a 9mm or a AK47. Everything else doesn't last including nitrided/hardened steel. Nitrided steel properties are excellent for heavy sliding forces and corrosion resistance. The core is still too soft for absorbing high impact forces because it lacks the toughness and elasticity of forged steel.
@@702Wolfi Ya got me on the semantics of coating vs nitride, etc. Check your coating thickness measurements too 8-40 thou IS HUGE. Nitride generally ends up .0005" or less (half thou).
And yea long and short of it is the bolt material should be different, its not quite right for this application. It will also vary from gun to gun how bad and quick the damage results from use. In general the damage isn't terrible, and I don't think that makes the gun a POS or make me feel some sort of way about CZ as a company. In mine after ~2k rounds the damage wasn't that big of a concern. I wouldn't imagine most guns would see an issue until 10k rounds. But I am sure there are some guns out there that the bolt damage was causing issues or starting to around 2k rounds or less.
@@EngineersArmory The old molten cyanide salt bath nitrogen infusion process Glock used many years ago went ~0.070 deep.
A tourist gun range in Las Vegas had 4 scorpion pistols available to shoot for tourists. All of them began failing to ignite the primer because the deformed hammer wouldn't transfer enough energy to the firing pin. Granted, all had more than 10k rounds fired if I recall correctly.
@@702Wolfi After 10k rounds most guns are going to need some TLC. I suppose I would just look at the bolt and it components as a "wear item" at that point. Oh well, everyone can have their own use cases and what they deem acceptable.
Molten salt bath nitriding thickness is generally 5-15 microns which is .0002"-.0006". Two to six ten thou. You're about 2 orders of magnitude off.