It's a struggel getting hubs off an Elan I took my hubs to an engineering firm. I have also seen that they can break very easily. Well done you did a good job. Desire and patience.
Great video. I just removed one of my hubs using the little insert and three eared spinner. Tightened it up then waited 10 mins and it was loose - so I had it easy this time.
The problem with generic pullers of the operating principle you made is that the hubs being cast of steel rather than iron, they can easily distort when pulled (or banged) unevenly on the outside (one would need to be quite cautious to apply pressure very gradually all around). Then the wheel contact patch not being flat the wheel nut may/will tend to undo under use. Many hubs have been damaged over the years and that was becoming an issue, till hubs copies were manufactured again alleviating the increasing scarcity of good hubs. The hub puller shown at the beginning (which is the one recommended in the Lotus manual) is the safest, most efficient way to remove rear hub (you may achieve that with a sacrifical nut, needs heat, bang on the pressure point, and repeat, with some luck), as the pulling effort is coaxial and very close to the mating surfaces. They're not that rare or expensive anymore, and could be lent by a fellow enthusiast I'm sure.
Thanks for you thoughts. The aim of my puller design was to ensure an even pressure on the flange of the hub. The first hub I pulled off i did use some heat. The second one I didn't and it came off really quite easily.
Fantastic video! As soon as you started using your MIG welder, I said to myself, "He should be using a stick welder." Why? Because I only have a stick welder!
Thanks Frank. What I didn't show in the video was that I ran out of gas halfway through. I think this is part of the reason I didn't get good penetration in some places. Also, the MIG torch head was quite hard to get close to the weld area being obstructed by the arms of the puller. Anyway you live and learn. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hurrah! I feel satisfied just watching. Bravo.
Thanks for the support.
It's a struggel getting hubs off an Elan I took my hubs to an engineering firm. I have also seen that they can break very easily. Well done you did a good job. Desire and patience.
Thanks
Super Video Ian, please keep producing them - they are very helpful indeed. Thank you!!!
Thanks, will do!
Nice one. A real pain of a job, keep up the good work. Great to see a proper workshop 👍
Thanks 👍
Great video. I just removed one of my hubs using the little insert and three eared spinner. Tightened it up then waited 10 mins and it was loose - so I had it easy this time.
Sounds like you were lucky!
Ingenious. Well done that man!
Thx Al
Octagonal wheel nuts look so much nicer than 'knock off/on' nuts, also they are more secure on a road car.
well done
Thanks
The problem with generic pullers of the operating principle you made is that the hubs being cast of steel rather than iron, they can easily distort when pulled (or banged) unevenly on the outside (one would need to be quite cautious to apply pressure very gradually all around). Then the wheel contact patch not being flat the wheel nut may/will tend to undo under use. Many hubs have been damaged over the years and that was becoming an issue, till hubs copies were manufactured again alleviating the increasing scarcity of good hubs.
The hub puller shown at the beginning (which is the one recommended in the Lotus manual) is the safest, most efficient way to remove rear hub (you may achieve that with a sacrifical nut, needs heat, bang on the pressure point, and repeat, with some luck), as the pulling effort is coaxial and very close to the mating surfaces. They're not that rare or expensive anymore, and could be lent by a fellow enthusiast I'm sure.
Thanks for you thoughts. The aim of my puller design was to ensure an even pressure on the flange of the hub. The first hub I pulled off i did use some heat. The second one I didn't and it came off really quite easily.
Fantastic video! As soon as you started using your MIG welder, I said to myself, "He should be using a stick welder." Why? Because I only have a stick welder!
Thanks Frank. What I didn't show in the video was that I ran out of gas halfway through. I think this is part of the reason I didn't get good penetration in some places. Also, the MIG torch head was quite hard to get close to the weld area being obstructed by the arms of the puller. Anyway you live and learn. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Getting the bearings out is not so easy either, good effort.
Very true!