Thanhs for nice videos! A tips: Always heat up the housing and bearings pop out easy. This way you will not loose any material where bearings are seated.
Great job! I was worried I might not be able to take my diff apart to replace bearings and seals, but now that I’ve watched you do it, I think I can handle it. Thank you!
Another great video! A few comments/questions. Why didn't you replace the bearings? I always replace them if they're not buttery smooth. Even the slightest noise and/or roughness is a red flag for me. Aside from the bearings, I find that Ford differential to be bullet proof. I painted the nose British Racing Green prior to assembly. Much easier and I didn't have to worry about getting it onto the aluminum pumpkin as we call it in the states. I thought the steel cross piece was to strengthen the pumpkin as the ears have a tendency to crack. As I recall the cross piece was a factory improvement that only showed up when the Sprints came out as I have an S4 SE and it doesn't have one. Is your car a Sprint or did you purchase the cross piece to avoid cracking the pumpkin? Again, spectacular video with plenty of close ups showing the details. Thanks for posting it Ian.
@@ianj3663 I'm guessing that some Elans developed cracking issues on the aluminum pumpkin ears and sometime in 1971, Lotus fixed the problem by adding the brace to the Elan production lines. The Sprints came out as late 1971 models through 1973 when production of the Elan ceased. I believe all the Sprints had the brace. I'm inclined to think that +2s prior to late 1971 didn't have the brace. That's why I'll bet your +2 is a 1971 model or later. Am I right?
Really happy you’re part of the Lotus elan community!!!Great videos! Keep the videos coming👍👍👍😁
Thanks, will do!
Thanhs for nice videos! A tips: Always heat up the housing and bearings pop out easy. This way you will not loose any material where bearings are seated.
Thanks for the info!
Great job! I was worried I might not be able to take my diff apart to replace bearings and seals, but now that I’ve watched you do it, I think I can handle it. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Where did you set the pre-load I didnt see that part... And love the strut just hanging around in the back ground . Another enjoyable watch.
Cheers
Thanks for the comment. Im going to do a separate video showing amongst other things setting the pe-load.
Bearings sounded hosed to me.
I agree, I've decided to change them. Watch out for the video.
change them, new bearings are always better than 30 year old ones!!!!
Yeah, you're right I'll probably do that before I put the diff back in the car.
Another great video! A few comments/questions. Why didn't you replace the bearings? I always replace them if they're not buttery smooth. Even the slightest noise and/or roughness is a red flag for me. Aside from the bearings, I find that Ford differential to be bullet proof. I painted the nose British Racing Green prior to assembly. Much easier and I didn't have to worry about getting it onto the aluminum pumpkin as we call it in the states. I thought the steel cross piece was to strengthen the pumpkin as the ears have a tendency to crack. As I recall the cross piece was a factory improvement that only showed up when the Sprints came out as I have an S4 SE and it doesn't have one. Is your car a Sprint or did you purchase the cross piece to avoid cracking the pumpkin? Again, spectacular video with plenty of close ups showing the details. Thanks for posting it Ian.
Hi Frank, mine is a late +2 so the cross brace came fitted as standard
Cheers Ian
@@ianj3663 I'm guessing that some Elans developed cracking issues on the aluminum pumpkin ears and sometime in 1971, Lotus fixed the problem by adding the brace to the Elan production lines. The Sprints came out as late 1971 models through 1973 when production of the Elan ceased. I believe all the Sprints had the brace. I'm inclined to think that +2s prior to late 1971 didn't have the brace. That's why I'll bet your +2 is a 1971 model or later. Am I right?
you are right!!! 1973