Hi Michael, Wonderful videos. Just a thought, I had the same problem with the tappets being extremely low so that the lock nut only had a minimal of threads on the tappet. What I did was remove the top sleeve of each pushrod and machine a shim to go inside and then locktite the sleeve back on. This lifted the rocker at the ball end and consequently lowered the tappet end which means unscrewing the tappet in the rocker enough to get the nut on completely with the clearance correctly set. Cheers and keep em coming.
In the bad old days we did actually ride those English motorcycles. I have warm memories of BSA C15. The distributor is situated below an Amal carburetor and those were somewhat leaky. I was adjusting the ignition and the distributor cover was off. As I tried to start the motor it started a fire. Luckily I had the gas tank securing bolt removed so I just took the tank off and made a run for it. All the gasoline in the carburetor burned and that was quite spectacular. Afterwards I had to use some tape to insulate burned wires but otherwise bike was ok.
You bring back memories of my days working in a BSA Dealership, some of which result in nightmare's today . Before I started working on British motorcycles I thought I had mastered foul language while working with livestock, British bikes redoubled my stock of foul language . Those bikes had lots of parts that simply did not fit until modified. I had a box of tappet adjuster nuts that wear half thickness, often I needed to fit them on new bikes at the first valve adjustment. I also saw a lot adjuster screws that had been hand slotted on older bikes so a offset screwdriver could be used. I remember using the press and a pace of round stock to flatten out the carburetor body flange after some nitwit had cranked down the mounting nuts so tight the carb was bent. It was a delicate process caution was needed . Take care of you and yours, best wishes!
Hello Michael, enjoy the videos immensely, including the frustrations of fettling British bikes, as I am well aware of those from my times working on my own in the past. The Japanese bikes were another world, parts fit almost always!!!. You answered a question about using unleaded fuel with older valve seats, a question I asked an engineer friend of mine a while ago, he worked with oil and fuel companies. He told me that a cast iron head uses the cast iron for the seat which probably would need to be upgraded if high mileages are to be undertaken, but aluminum heads with shrunk in seats are made of a much tougher material and there is no need to change those as they will be fine to use with unleaded fuel. I have 2 Triumphs both with aluminum heads and have no issues that I have noticed yet. One has done high mileages, the other not yet. Regards, Dave
When I was living in Britain I subscribed to various magazines (before I got married and still had money-LOL) I don't remember which vintage car magazine did the tests but they found really bad seat wear on some engines. I had an old (1965) Rover P6 at the time so found it quite interesting. Less than 10,000 miles and up to 1/8" recession on exhaust seats wit- non hardened cast iron heads. Intake wear was minimal.
Another really informative video. So much better now you’re not compressed into the centre of the screen. I can’t wait for the final assembly and start up. Excellent work. Please keep the videos coming
Cracking watch Michael, I'm now up to date and will have to start watching weekly like everyone else. As I've said on other comments I'm on my first ever restoration and it's a C15. I'm just waiting for bits to come back so that I can start with reassembly. Between you and Rupert I hope to have a fully functioning C15 in the next few months. Thank you for making this, not only is it thoroughly entertaining, it's a massive help!
Regarding valve seats; I had never had a problem with unleaded fuel until three years ago. Then I bought a year 2004 RE 350 Bullet which kept losing compression every 100 miles or so because the exhaust valve clearance kept disappearing. I think this might be why the bike had only done 3,000 miles but had four previous owners. Turned out to be a soft exhaust valve seat and a damaged valve. It was recessed about 1mm by the time I gave up and had a new seat fitted. I rebuilt the engine with a stainless valve. Since then it’s covered another 13,000 miles with no problem and the valve clearance has remained spot on.
Hi Michael, Excellent channel and videos that makes my Sunday evenings. I settle down with a glass of wine to watch progress. This said I would have to do something about the hexagons on those tappet covers. Either mill them down a size or two or use the TIG to build them back up and re-machine. Its the same on cars with oil pan drain bolts - all chewed to buggery. As for unleaded fuel I have a 65 Mustang here in the UK and have run it over 125,000 miles on unleaded fuel with no hint of valve seat recession. I guess it might depend on the initial hardness of the cast iron heads, maybe some manufacturers use softer iron. Offcourse we now have the threat of increasing ethanol in fuels. If you believe some of the stuff on the net you will be able to sit and watch everything from your petrol tank to the carb disintigrate before your eyes.
Anything plastic, rubber or fibre glass is going to be affected. In fact it first came to light with boaters who found that their fibre glass petrol tanks became floppy leaking bags because the ethanol dissolved the resin.
A great set of videos on this bike, I'm really enjoying them, I must say on having just built a Cub, how much easier the head is on the C15 as opposed to the Cub, which was an absolute nightmare, with no inspection window to locate the pushrods, and not helped by the engine being on a slope, but loving this C15T build though! cheers, Dave
Hi Michael, Don't feel bad about being chucked out of the Scouts, I was "invited to leave" the CUBS, for much the same reason!! The bike is really looking tickety boo now, Well impressed with the exhaust fit! You could always paint the circle on the engine side cover the same as the tank as well as the centre of the star badge itself? Just a thought? Well that's it for this time, Take care, Stay Safe, say Hi to your new Pres for me, Love to Linda. Cheers Dave UK
Hello Michael. Love the builds.next time you are looking for a carb to filter rubber have a look at car radiator hose.i have a few different sizes that I cut the length I need.keep warm see you soon
I put a bit of clear plastic tube over thew brass oil feed, to stop it wearing out where it touches the frame, you can buy a special small socket headed screwdriver with a slotted driver inside it for worm drive clips. I put a carb gasket on before the tufnol spacer, on C15 and Bantams. The correct 375/34 carb doesn't have threads on the intake end, I'm sure you know.
I began as a paid mechanic in 1963 at a BSA/Honda shop in a large city. Even with the veteran mechanics, I never saw a torque wrench being used or any around the shop. A decade later, at another shop in N.Y., torque specs were issued mostly to insure warranty compliance and to satisfy policy. Within that policy, I was awarded a clicking type torque wrench for participating in a Kawasaki service contest over a couple months. The arrival of big, multi-cylinder engines was be best reason to use a torque wrench but the "feel" of fasteners was always adhered to in all servicing.
Looking at the extra long rocker box studs, should there be a head steady bracket? On the older engines with cast iron heads or valve seats there should be no problem with lead free petrol. Never use lead replacement additives they can cause valves to stick. Best just to make sure top end gets plenty of oil. On B50/CCM engines for scrambles we converted the rocker feed from the scavenge pump to a tapping into the crank feed gallery for extra top end lubrication. What harm the smell of burning Castrol R? I put a spoonful into the fuel tank on the lawn mower for nostalgic reasons!
Love your videos. They've really got me interested in older British bikes. I've restored/fixed up a few '70s and '80s japanese bikes. British bikes were out of the mainstream well before I was born. I was wondering what bike/project you think would be a good introduction into working on British bikes?
Definitely a BSA single. There were a lot of them sold, particularly the B44 Victor Special, and virtually every part is still available either NOS or repro. Plus they are simple to work on compared with things like the Triumph and Norton twins.
With regards to unleaded petrol. back in the 80's Practical classics magazine did a test on a lead replacement product. It might have been Carbon flow? They reconditioned the head on an Austin 1800 B-series engine. Recut seats and new valves etc. And ran it on unleaded. It didn't work. The seats recessed and what have you. The upshot is I believe the company was taken to court? personally, I haven't had a problem with unleaded in old motors or know anyone who as. The common consensus is that the valve seats work harden with use. And unless you're thrashing up n down motorways, there isn't a problem?
Hi like the series on the bike, if the bike was mine i would have to do something with those tappit covers they look like a rodent has been chewing on them
Mike, the screw on hex caps on the rocker box covers - just wondering if there's enough 'meat' to mill them down to a smaller size, cleaning up the damaged faces in the process ?
Hi Michael, Great videos............please tell me your going to replace those horrible chewd up tappet covers !!??? Also, It should have a pancake ( flat circular )style airfilter, which was braized to the center panel, but it has been taken, or broken off, which is why ther is a little bit of braze ( lug ) still attached. Plus the hole in the panel never seems to line up properly with the carb intake, there's always a 'step'.. ( well, both of mine are like that anyway ? ) Back to the tappet covers, I think they're going to spoil an otherwise great looking bike...!! Best regards, Chris.
Hi Michael, Wonderful videos. Just a thought, I had the same problem with the tappets being extremely low so that the lock nut only had a minimal of threads on the tappet. What I did was remove the top sleeve of each pushrod and machine a shim to go inside and then locktite the sleeve back on. This lifted the rocker at the ball end and consequently lowered the tappet end which means unscrewing the tappet in the rocker enough to get the nut on completely with the clearance correctly set. Cheers and keep em coming.
In the bad old days we did actually ride those English motorcycles. I have warm memories of BSA C15. The distributor is situated below an Amal carburetor and those were somewhat leaky. I was adjusting the ignition and the distributor cover was off. As I tried to start the motor it started a fire. Luckily I had the gas tank securing bolt removed so I just took the tank off and made a run for it. All the gasoline in the carburetor burned and that was quite spectacular. Afterwards I had to use some tape to insulate burned wires but otherwise bike was ok.
You bring back memories of my days working in a BSA Dealership, some of which result in nightmare's today . Before I started working on British motorcycles I thought I had mastered foul language while working with livestock, British bikes redoubled my stock of foul language . Those bikes had lots of parts that simply did not fit until modified. I had a box of tappet adjuster nuts that wear half thickness, often I needed to fit them on new bikes at the first valve adjustment. I also saw a lot adjuster screws that had been hand slotted on older bikes so a offset screwdriver could be used. I remember using the press and a pace of round stock to flatten out the carburetor body flange after some nitwit had cranked down the mounting nuts so tight the carb was bent. It was a delicate process caution was needed . Take care of you and yours, best wishes!
Same sort of story here.
Hello Michael, enjoy the videos immensely, including the frustrations of fettling British bikes, as I am well aware of those from my times working on my own in the past. The Japanese bikes were another world, parts fit almost always!!!. You answered a question about using unleaded fuel with older valve seats, a question I asked an engineer friend of mine a while ago, he worked with oil and fuel companies. He told me that a cast iron head uses the cast iron for the seat which probably would need to be upgraded if high mileages are to be undertaken, but aluminum heads with shrunk in seats are made of a much tougher material and there is no need to change those as they will be fine to use with unleaded fuel. I have 2 Triumphs both with aluminum heads and have no issues that I have noticed yet. One has done high mileages, the other not yet. Regards, Dave
When I was living in Britain I subscribed to various magazines (before I got married and still had money-LOL)
I don't remember which vintage car magazine did the tests but they found really bad seat wear on some engines.
I had an old (1965) Rover P6 at the time so found it quite interesting. Less than 10,000 miles and up to 1/8" recession on exhaust seats wit- non hardened cast iron heads. Intake wear was minimal.
The closing stage is always good, thanks Mike.
Michael I really enjoy the videos. Keep them coming. Can hardly wait to see the bike finished and hear it running. Cheers from Oregon.
I can almost hear the roar of the engine
Getting mighty close now
Stay warm and safe.
Another really informative video. So much better now you’re not compressed into the centre of the screen. I can’t wait for the final assembly and start up.
Excellent work. Please keep the videos coming
Cracking watch Michael, I'm now up to date and will have to start watching weekly like everyone else. As I've said on other comments I'm on my first ever restoration and it's a C15. I'm just waiting for bits to come back so that I can start with reassembly. Between you and Rupert I hope to have a fully functioning C15 in the next few months. Thank you for making this, not only is it thoroughly entertaining, it's a massive help!
When I did up my C15, a few years ago, the star on the crankcase, i painted the circle on the crankcase black and it made it stand out really good.
Wow wow Michael, love it Sir..................the beezers have a certain amount of class
Regarding valve seats; I had never had a problem with unleaded fuel until three years ago. Then I bought a year 2004 RE 350 Bullet which kept losing compression every 100 miles or so because the exhaust valve clearance kept disappearing. I think this might be why the bike had only done 3,000 miles but had four previous owners. Turned out to be a soft exhaust valve seat and a damaged valve. It was recessed about 1mm by the time I gave up and had a new seat fitted. I rebuilt the engine with a stainless valve. Since then it’s covered another 13,000 miles with no problem and the valve clearance has remained spot on.
Oh my god is getting so close to start up I can’t wait, it’s looking really good, great job 👍😀
It is a nice looking bike and I'm fond of 250s in general, even losing some of my historical disdain for C15s as I watch it take shape...;)
Hi Michael, Excellent channel and videos that makes my Sunday evenings. I settle down with a glass of wine to watch progress. This said I would have to do something about the hexagons on those tappet covers. Either mill them down a size or two or use the TIG to build them back up and re-machine. Its the same on cars with oil pan drain bolts - all chewed to buggery.
As for unleaded fuel I have a 65 Mustang here in the UK and have run it over 125,000 miles on unleaded fuel with no hint of valve seat recession. I guess it might depend on the initial hardness of the cast iron heads, maybe some manufacturers use softer iron. Offcourse we now have the threat of increasing ethanol in fuels. If you believe some of the stuff on the net you will be able to sit and watch everything from your petrol tank to the carb disintigrate before your eyes.
Anything plastic, rubber or fibre glass is going to be affected. In fact it first came to light with boaters who found that their fibre glass petrol tanks became floppy leaking bags because the ethanol dissolved the resin.
A great set of videos on this bike, I'm really enjoying them, I must say on having just built a Cub, how much easier the head is on the C15 as opposed to the Cub, which was an absolute nightmare, with no inspection window to locate the pushrods, and not helped by the engine being on a slope, but loving this C15T build though! cheers, Dave
Really enjoying it Michael! Keep up the brilliant work looking good 👍
Best Sunday night telly
Thanks Michael, enjoyed that. All the best
Another cracking video Michael Thanks for sharing !
loving the videos makes me want to restore an bike may do when i retire in march
I just love 'pretty things'... 😊
As good as ever! Thanks. Les in UK
Hi Michael, Don't feel bad about being chucked out of the Scouts, I was "invited to leave" the CUBS, for much the same reason!! The bike is really looking tickety boo now, Well impressed with the exhaust fit! You could always paint the circle on the engine side cover the same as the tank as well as the centre of the star badge itself? Just a thought? Well that's it for this time, Take care, Stay Safe, say Hi to your new Pres for me, Love to Linda. Cheers Dave UK
Hello Michael. Love the builds.next time you are looking for a carb to filter rubber have a look at car radiator hose.i have a few different sizes that I cut the length I need.keep warm see you soon
My local auto shop just send me to the back storage when I come in with a bent piece of wire and ask if they have a radiator hose that shape.
I put a bit of clear plastic tube over thew brass oil feed, to stop it wearing out where it touches the frame, you can buy a special small socket headed screwdriver with a slotted driver inside it for worm drive clips. I put a carb gasket on before the tufnol spacer, on C15 and Bantams. The correct 375/34 carb doesn't have threads on the intake end, I'm sure you know.
Thank's for answering my valve seat question:-)
Rolls Royce mechanics do not use torque wrenches, everything is done by feel!
I began as a paid mechanic in 1963 at a BSA/Honda shop in a large city. Even with the veteran mechanics, I never saw a torque wrench being used or any around the shop. A decade later, at another shop in N.Y., torque specs were issued mostly to insure warranty compliance and to satisfy policy. Within that policy, I was awarded a clicking type torque wrench for participating in a Kawasaki service contest over a couple months. The arrival of big, multi-cylinder engines was be best reason to use a torque wrench but the "feel" of fasteners was always adhered to in all servicing.
Bike is looking really good Michael :)
Looking at the extra long rocker box studs, should there be a head steady bracket?
On the older engines with cast iron heads or valve seats there should be no problem with lead free petrol. Never use lead replacement additives they can cause valves to stick. Best just to make sure top end gets plenty of oil. On B50/CCM engines for scrambles we converted the rocker feed from the scavenge pump to a tapping into the crank feed gallery for extra top end lubrication. What harm the smell of burning Castrol R? I put a spoonful into the fuel tank on the lawn mower for nostalgic reasons!
Love your videos. They've really got me interested in older British bikes. I've restored/fixed up a few '70s and '80s japanese bikes. British bikes were out of the mainstream well before I was born. I was wondering what bike/project you think would be a good introduction into working on British bikes?
Definitely a BSA single. There were a lot of them sold, particularly the B44 Victor Special, and virtually every part is still available either NOS or repro. Plus they are simple to work on compared with things like the Triumph and Norton twins.
With regards to unleaded petrol. back in the 80's Practical classics magazine did a test on a lead replacement product. It might have been Carbon flow? They reconditioned the head on an Austin 1800 B-series engine. Recut seats and new valves etc. And ran it on unleaded. It didn't work. The seats recessed and what have you. The upshot is I believe the company was taken to court? personally, I haven't had a problem with unleaded in old motors or know anyone who as. The common consensus is that the valve seats work harden with use. And unless you're thrashing up n down motorways, there isn't a problem?
👍🍻
Optical illusion, or is the carb flange distorted as gasket appears thicker at the top compared to under the nuts ?
👍🏴
Hi like the series on the bike, if the bike was mine i would have to do something with those tappit covers they look like a rodent has been chewing on them
Me too they would drive me crazy
Mike, the screw on hex caps on the rocker box covers - just wondering if there's enough 'meat' to mill them down to a smaller size, cleaning up the damaged faces in the process ?
Hey great video, off topic but what do you use for trials section markers
Please show how you shorten the outer throttle cable . This is a job i always hate doing ,
Bike is coming together nicely.. Is this a keeper Michael or for sale..
👍🏻🇨🇦
that carb looks like it could use a thackery washer
Getting Thackery Washers is like getting ROCKING HORSE DUNG
@@davidausten9456 we have a lot of rocking horse dung in the UK :D
OK here but what about America
The carb calls for a gasket and an o-ring?
I believe The gasket is a heat barrier in later years it was thicker.
HEADLINES : "Nut' screws washer then bolts .!
Hi Michael,
Great videos............please tell me your going to replace those horrible chewd up tappet covers !!???
Also, It should have a pancake ( flat circular )style airfilter, which was braized to the center panel, but it has been taken, or broken off, which is why ther is a little bit of braze ( lug ) still attached.
Plus the hole in the panel never seems to line up properly with the carb intake, there's always a 'step'..
( well, both of mine are like that anyway ? )
Back to the tappet covers, I think they're going to spoil an otherwise great looking bike...!!
Best regards, Chris.
For heaven's sake, make your own cotter pin. You can custom fit it.
Why? They are cheap and a couple of minutes with a file fettles them.
@@BritanniaMotorcycles How long are you willing to wait for them?