0-Add flux generously 1-Use tweezers to grip/grab/hold the component you want to remove (I use my left hand) (sorry about my broken english ,I hope I could convey the idea) 2-Draw circles with the gun , continuosly. The moment you stop drawing circles , things start flying. (I use my right hand) 3-at some point the component will get loose , keep drawing circles with the gun while removing the component.
Very nice that :) I noticed on your 2nd demonstration that a couple of other components also flew off their pads lol :) nice new toy indeed. Keep up the excellent videos, many thanks
Looks like you went all out on the microscope. Amscope should give some money to Louis. I have the AmScope SE400-Z. I won't be able to fit a preheater underneath it however.
You might be able to use a different arm with it, or just raise the whole base. That's the sort of microscope I thought I was going to buy, but you know the way it is. Just a bit more gets me.... Then it all ends up costing way more than originally planned.
Thanks so much for sharing your unboxing/setup experience of this microscope. I have a similar kit ordered and I think your video will be of great help! Any thoughts you would add today?
If a better camera was available, with a higher frame rate, I would probably look into that. Otherwise, it's been a fantastic piece of kit that I use almost daily.
At 23:15 or so, you mention the tipping hazard. If the arm were swung to the opposite side, at full extension the geometry of the base (and subsequent weight on the back) would provide it the leverage needed to be stable. While I have not tried this, I’m purchasing this unit soon, and just looking at the configuration I can see the foundation triangulated
Looks like you didn't install the ring light correctly, it should have an adapter that screws into the Barlow lens and then you attach the ring light to that plastic adaptor.
You complained that loosening the collar under the boom arm allowed the entire assembly to drop - making height adjustment difficult. There is a securing screw on the boom itself. When lowering the height, first secure the boom to the shaft, then lower the collar and secure it. Finally, loosen the screw on the boom, lowering it onto the collar. When raising the boom, first lift the boom and then secure its screw to the shaft, then raise the collar to contact the boom and secure the collar. Now you can loosen the screw on the boom, allowing it to rotate freely.
Hi Colin. I'm trying to get a few bits together to do some repairs on the side as I love repairing stuff. Just stuck on the scope and much like yourself have seem how popular the AmScope is. Problem is I see people like Rossman using SM745NTP / SM-4NTP and others using SM745TP / SM-4TP. The extra "N" in the model name from the little information online states that the scope has its diopter-adjustment moved from the ocular ports to the individual eyepieces... and retention screws hold the eyepieces in place. I'm sure both scopes work practically the same but when faced with spending a fair few quid i would like to know why you would choose one over the other. If i knew why then i could make my choice. Not sure if you would have any input on it at all? No worries if your too busy.
Mine I think has them on the eyepieces, which I like. However having both adjustable might seem a little odd, surely you would fix one? I think it's done this way so you can get the focus the same on the eyepieces as on the camera port. The camera mounting is a bit shoddy and the camera is overpriced, if getting a camera then perhaps look for an alternative. Also if camera use is only going to be occasional, cheaper microscopes are available which switch one eye over to the camera port. For me though I use the camera quite a lot.
I hope you enjoy using it. Are you still satisfied? What I'm curious about is that there is no brand logo on the microscope. Is this a real product or fake?
I bought it from Amscope, it's certainly genuine. I use it very regularly and I'm generally very happy with it. The camera frame rate could be better, perhaps better cameras are available now.
Hi there. Fantastic video! I just had a question as I’m on the fence about buying one of these. Is this model the SM-4NTPX-3PL (white colour) the same as the SM745NTP (black colour) from amscope. May I ask what the difference is between the SM-4NTP and the SM745NTP? Your advice will help me massively as I have no idea which one to go for. Most people seem to be buying the SM - 4NTP but I wanted a black version of it (SM745NTP) which without sacrificing any of the features that you have in yours. Your help will be massively appreciated!
Actually I found Amscope's sales very helpful with sorting out the exact model number I wanted so I would suggest you contact them for reliable advice. I think the black one is just used in environments where reflections need to be kept to a minimum, but it also does look nice! Keep an eye out for site-wide discount deals which Amscope do quite regularly.
That's a smashing bit of kit colin :-D I was thinking the same thing about the cover, an elasticated rim bag (like a hair cap worn by food makers, but bigger) would be ideal for the head. Everything else is just a crude metal stand, dust will do nothing to that. Turn your air speed down a bit. Yes you did get the lads name mixed up, i had the same thing happen as a kid, I'm Harvey Not Mark (my brother). My mum made that mistake quite a lot lol.
The hot air gun speed was set almost at minimum. I think this really is the hazard of using this technique, it requires a lot of care and maybe some Kapton tape around the parts you don't want to blow off. I muddle up all three boys. Max is 5, Scott (my helper in this video) is 11 and Alex is 14.
@@video99couk , Hmm not an easy thing to fix, if you tinkered at the pump end the heater element could get too hot due to too low an airflow through it. You would have to limit both, i think. Or drillholes in the side of the nozzel to waste the flow ha ha joke :-D I'm sure you will find a way, i'm sorry i cant help you :-(
I was under the impression that this unit is par focal and keeps focus whatever zoom level you adjust to. At( 24.00 mins) id got this information having watched a video of the same unit being reviewed by stefan avalos.
I wish it did, but no the focus shifts hugely as you alter the zoom. You can see that in my latest video actually: th-cam.com/video/grSUONO_BAw/w-d-xo.html
When attaching the head onto tthe focus rack collar you added an on screen question as to why the collar has 3 screw holes, yet only 1 screw to secure the head to the collar. As to why, even Amscope doesn’t know. In the Amscope TH-cam video showing how to assemble the stand, the fellow assembling the collar, points out that the collar has three holes but only comes with 1 screw, (”the single screw holds the head securely”) and adds they get a lot of consumer complaints concerning the fact that the microscope collar was missing 2 screws???
Ya know, some wick would have gotten that piece off in a about a quarter the time than fighting with two irons on 4 leads. Or some low melt solder would have also done it for a touch more cost. Though the hot air is a nice "Solve all" :) Thank you for the video! Excellent description and showing functionality, perfect for us to decide if we want one or not! Keep up the great work! Also if your camera has a HDMI output, try it, cause the USB output only gives half the resolution and framerate as HDMI on many of them.
Hi there. I have nearly the same setup. Can you please share what parts you use and which camera. I have a 14MP HAYEAR camera but misses something as my video is poor quality. I have added a Barlow 0.7x lens below the Amscope microscope. But is curios what you are using. I see your list. But did you add any rings or converters between the camera and the microscope?
"Deathdaptor" Got a laugh out of that. As you know, the power unit that came with the item is made for US wall outlets. Been using them for decades--even as a child--no deaths yet. Don't know of any else dying either. Thanks for sharing.
It won't tip over you've got the base facing the wrong way, all the weight is to the left, swivel the base 90 so the weight is to the right and it will be fine.
@@video99couk I don't need to see AmScope pictures, the base is designed to rotate 360 degrees so it can be positioned in such a way that the weighted stand is opposite the optics to counterbalance the weight to prevent tipping, plus you get more room.
Question I bought an Amscope 7x 45x. I put it together. When I set it up I have no room between the scope and board to solder. What am I missing? What lens do I need to get?
0,5x lens, apparently it lowers your magnification a bit but doubles the distance of the focal point. I looked at a 0,4x lens and it said it would give me 28 cm of workspace.
The counterweight at the base of the stand must be at the opposite end of the scope to work as intended, so a sort of z shape if you can understand. If both the big counterweight and the scope is at the same side it will fall over at some point and that will be very bad.
Simul-focals are trinocular, but not all trinoculars are simul-focal. This video explains well why many people want it: th-cam.com/video/6v0V98-NoZ4/w-d-xo.html In short: much better (arguably essential) for creating video of the work.
The main thing to know is that European and especially UK mains connectors are much safer than USA ones! These microscopes are imported from China and it was the Chinese suppliers who made the mistake with that dangerous adaptor. Amscope said that it won't happen any more.
Serves you right for buying Amscope. They sell cheap shit. I sent mine back after barely an hour. Also it's tipping because you got the weighted part of the base on the wrong side. That's why it's shaped that way, the thick heavy side goes on the far side of the microscope head.
I think I got the base the right way round. It's certainly been earning its keep, I use the microscope a lot. My only real disappointment is the quality of the camera, which I could upgrade one day.
What did you get instead? A Leica for 4x (minimum) the cost? At this price range Amscope are the go-to, hence why so many people have them. Especially when you yourself are paying for it, not a company.
@@catharperfect7036 I bought a Byomic, which is roughly the same price but twice the quality and has all the features usually seen on scopes three times the price.
Amscopes are seriously bad quality. Those boom arms are absolute junk! Mild steel shafts with a chrome plating do not work with hardened steel bearings. Wish I had known about this before I had bought mine! 😠
Aren't there different types of boom arm? Some have ball-bearing and some don't? Rossmann pointed out that the one he had was far superior to the Leica one, so yeah....
0-Add flux generously
1-Use tweezers to grip/grab/hold the component you want to remove (I use my left hand) (sorry about my broken english ,I hope I could convey the idea)
2-Draw circles with the gun , continuosly. The moment you stop drawing circles , things start flying.
(I use my right hand)
3-at some point the component will get loose , keep drawing circles with the gun while removing the component.
All good advice.
Very nice that :) I noticed on your 2nd demonstration that a couple of other components also flew off their pads lol :) nice new toy indeed. Keep up the excellent videos, many thanks
Did they? I didn't spot that! Oh dear, more practice required.
Looks like you went all out on the microscope. Amscope should give some money to Louis. I have the AmScope SE400-Z. I won't be able to fit a preheater underneath it however.
You might be able to use a different arm with it, or just raise the whole base. That's the sort of microscope I thought I was going to buy, but you know the way it is. Just a bit more gets me.... Then it all ends up costing way more than originally planned.
Thanks so much for sharing your unboxing/setup experience of this microscope. I have a similar kit ordered and I think your video will be of great help! Any thoughts you would add today?
If a better camera was available, with a higher frame rate, I would probably look into that. Otherwise, it's been a fantastic piece of kit that I use almost daily.
At 23:15 or so, you mention the tipping hazard. If the arm were swung to the opposite side, at full extension the geometry of the base (and subsequent weight on the back) would provide it the leverage needed to be stable. While I have not tried this, I’m purchasing this unit soon, and just looking at the configuration I can see the foundation triangulated
Let me know if that seems better, but it doesn't feel right with my unit.
Hi Scott. You are a great helper.
Looks like you didn't install the ring light correctly, it should have an adapter that screws into the Barlow lens and then you attach the ring light to that plastic adaptor.
You complained that loosening the collar under the boom arm allowed the entire assembly to drop - making height adjustment difficult. There is a securing screw on the boom itself. When lowering the height, first secure the boom to the shaft, then lower the collar and secure it. Finally, loosen the screw on the boom, lowering it onto the collar. When raising the boom, first lift the boom and then secure its screw to the shaft, then raise the collar to contact the boom and secure the collar. Now you can loosen the screw on the boom, allowing it to rotate freely.
But still the course height adjustment isn't very elegant.
@@video99couk I absolutely agree. A similarly inelegant height (coarse focus) adjustment scheme is employed for the focusing rack mounting post.
Hi Colin. I'm trying to get a few bits together to do some repairs on the side as I love repairing stuff.
Just stuck on the scope and much like yourself have seem how popular the AmScope is. Problem is I see people like Rossman using SM745NTP / SM-4NTP and others using SM745TP / SM-4TP.
The extra "N" in the model name from the little information online states that the scope has its diopter-adjustment moved from the ocular ports to the individual eyepieces... and retention screws hold the eyepieces in place.
I'm sure both scopes work practically the same but when faced with spending a fair few quid i would like to know why you would choose one over the other. If i knew why then i could make my choice.
Not sure if you would have any input on it at all? No worries if your too busy.
Mine I think has them on the eyepieces, which I like. However having both adjustable might seem a little odd, surely you would fix one? I think it's done this way so you can get the focus the same on the eyepieces as on the camera port. The camera mounting is a bit shoddy and the camera is overpriced, if getting a camera then perhaps look for an alternative. Also if camera use is only going to be occasional, cheaper microscopes are available which switch one eye over to the camera port. For me though I use the camera quite a lot.
I hope you enjoy using it. Are you still satisfied?
What I'm curious about is that there is no brand logo on the microscope.
Is this a real product or fake?
I bought it from Amscope, it's certainly genuine. I use it very regularly and I'm generally very happy with it. The camera frame rate could be better, perhaps better cameras are available now.
I learned what a Barlow lens is.
It was new to me when I started this research too.
As someone learning to solder I find microscopes hard to gauge as you can't really test them . This AmScope SM-4ntp is really pricey too!
Most people don't require the camera port and without that, the price is certainly much better.
Hi there. Fantastic video! I just had a question as I’m on the fence about buying one of these. Is this model the SM-4NTPX-3PL (white colour) the same as the SM745NTP (black colour) from amscope. May I ask what the difference is between the SM-4NTP and the SM745NTP? Your advice will help me massively as I have no idea which one to go for. Most people seem to be buying the SM - 4NTP but I wanted a black version of it (SM745NTP) which without sacrificing any of the features that you have in yours. Your help will be massively appreciated!
Actually I found Amscope's sales very helpful with sorting out the exact model number I wanted so I would suggest you contact them for reliable advice. I think the black one is just used in environments where reflections need to be kept to a minimum, but it also does look nice! Keep an eye out for site-wide discount deals which Amscope do quite regularly.
@@video99couk What is the best way of contacting them? I emailed them last week but I’ve had no response from them.
@@video99couk do you find that you need the rubber eye guards? Or is it best without. Thank you
That's a smashing bit of kit colin :-D
I was thinking the same thing about the cover, an elasticated rim bag (like a hair cap worn by food makers, but bigger) would be ideal for the head.
Everything else is just a crude metal stand, dust will do nothing to that.
Turn your air speed down a bit.
Yes you did get the lads name mixed up, i had the same thing happen as a kid, I'm Harvey Not Mark (my brother).
My mum made that mistake quite a lot lol.
The hot air gun speed was set almost at minimum. I think this really is the hazard of using this technique, it requires a lot of care and maybe some Kapton tape around the parts you don't want to blow off.
I muddle up all three boys. Max is 5, Scott (my helper in this video) is 11 and Alex is 14.
@@video99couk , Hmm not an easy thing to fix, if you tinkered at the pump end the heater element could get too hot due to too low an airflow through it.
You would have to limit both, i think.
Or drillholes in the side of the nozzel to waste the flow ha ha joke :-D
I'm sure you will find a way, i'm sorry i cant help you :-(
Nice review also you can use for desoldering low melt solder
Looks like a great scope, but that webcam seems oddly poor for the price. I'd expect better frame rates.
I agree that the cameras seem overpriced. Frame rate seems to be about 8 fps, but varies from one file to another. This could be limitations of USB.
I was under the impression that this unit is par focal and keeps focus whatever zoom level you adjust to. At( 24.00 mins) id got this information having watched a video of the same unit being reviewed by stefan avalos.
I wish it did, but no the focus shifts hugely as you alter the zoom. You can see that in my latest video actually:
th-cam.com/video/grSUONO_BAw/w-d-xo.html
@@video99couk
Weird . If you watch this video, same unit as yours and it works perfectly. 10:14 onwards
th-cam.com/video/JQFdYzU-jm8/w-d-xo.html
When attaching the head onto tthe focus rack collar you added an on screen question as to why the collar has 3 screw holes, yet only 1 screw to secure the head to the collar. As to why, even Amscope doesn’t know. In the Amscope TH-cam video showing how to assemble the stand, the fellow assembling the collar, points out that the collar has three holes but only comes with 1 screw, (”the single screw holds the head securely”) and adds they get a lot of consumer complaints concerning the fact that the microscope collar was missing 2 screws???
Amscope don't know, probably, because they've bought the design in from a Chinese manufacturer and don't really have full control over it.
Ya know, some wick would have gotten that piece off in a about a quarter the time than fighting with two irons on 4 leads. Or some low melt solder would have also done it for a touch more cost. Though the hot air is a nice "Solve all" :)
Thank you for the video! Excellent description and showing functionality, perfect for us to decide if we want one or not! Keep up the great work!
Also if your camera has a HDMI output, try it, cause the USB output only gives half the resolution and framerate as HDMI on many of them.
Hi there. I have nearly the same setup. Can you please share what parts you use and which camera. I have a 14MP HAYEAR camera but misses something as my video is poor quality. I have added a Barlow 0.7x lens below the Amscope microscope. But is curios what you are using. I see your list. But did you add any rings or converters between the camera and the microscope?
That list is everything, there are no further components. I'm not that impressed with the camera. The resolution is OK but the frame rate is poor.
Question I bought an Amscope 7x 45x. I put it together. When I set it up I have no room between the scope and board to solder. What am I missing?
See my parts list for a suitable Barlow Lens to assist with working distance, at the expense of some magnification.
I would love to hear the views of someone who has used the Amscope SM-4NTP 7X-45X Simul-Focal and it's cheaper clone.
I suspect there's almost nothing different about them. But it might not be that much cheaper after shipping and import duties are paid.
"Deathdaptor" Got a laugh out of that. As you know, the power unit that came with the item is made for US wall outlets. Been using them for decades--even as a child--no deaths yet. Don't know of any else dying either. Thanks for sharing.
I think if you turn the base around 180° do you have less problem of a tipping over
No, that way is much more unstable.
It won't tip over you've got the base facing the wrong way, all the weight is to the left, swivel the base 90 so the weight is to the right and it will be fine.
The base is the correct way round, with the flat part facing towards the optics. See Amscope's pictures.
@@video99couk I don't need to see AmScope pictures, the base is designed to rotate 360 degrees so it can be positioned in such a way that the weighted stand is opposite the optics to counterbalance the weight to prevent tipping, plus you get more room.
Question I bought an Amscope 7x 45x. I put it together. When I set it up I have no room between the scope and board to solder. What am I missing? What lens do I need to get?
Do you have the barlow lens? If not, one those can help, at the expense of some magnification.
0,5x lens, apparently it lowers your magnification a bit but doubles the distance of the focal point. I looked at a 0,4x lens and it said it would give me 28 cm of workspace.
The counterweight at the base of the stand must be at the opposite end of the scope to work as intended, so a sort of z shape if you can understand. If both the big counterweight and the scope is at the same side it will fall over at some point and that will be very bad.
If you look at the thumbnail, which is from Amscope's own literature, you will see the base the same way round as I use it.
Any difference between simul focal vs trinocular microscopes?
Simil-focal allows the cam to work while still using both eyes. Normally the cam will use one of the eye ports
Simul-focals are trinocular, but not all trinoculars are simul-focal.
This video explains well why many people want it:
th-cam.com/video/6v0V98-NoZ4/w-d-xo.html
In short: much better (arguably essential) for creating video of the work.
hy, i want to buy amscope microscope. what is your opinion about it ? do you advice it ?
Yes, I would get either the real Amscope one or the slightly cheaper Chinese equivalent which is almost certainly the same thing.
why is the camera so laggy/stuttery? doesn't look real time
It's a fairly low frame rate, prioritises resolution over frame rate. A USB connection wouldn't take for example 4k at 60Hz.
25:37 No way you can remove that chip that way it’s just gonna go back and forth
We don't know much about Europe electricity here in the USA.
The main thing to know is that European and especially UK mains connectors are much safer than USA ones! These microscopes are imported from China and it was the Chinese suppliers who made the mistake with that dangerous adaptor. Amscope said that it won't happen any more.
@@video99couk that is good that they will ensure all the safety matters are looked after.
SOLDER WICK!
Yes I use solder wick, hot air, pre-heater, soldering station and soldering tweezers, all as part of my tool set.
TRY USING QUICKCHIP
Price
See the video description for cost and bill of materials.
Serves you right for buying Amscope. They sell cheap shit. I sent mine back after barely an hour. Also it's tipping because you got the weighted part of the base on the wrong side. That's why it's shaped that way, the thick heavy side goes on the far side of the microscope head.
I think I got the base the right way round. It's certainly been earning its keep, I use the microscope a lot. My only real disappointment is the quality of the camera, which I could upgrade one day.
What did you get instead? A Leica for 4x (minimum) the cost?
At this price range Amscope are the go-to, hence why so many people have them.
Especially when you yourself are paying for it, not a company.
@@catharperfect7036 I bought a Byomic, which is roughly the same price but twice the quality and has all the features usually seen on scopes three times the price.
Amscopes are seriously bad quality. Those boom arms are absolute junk! Mild steel shafts with a chrome plating do not work with hardened steel bearings. Wish I had known about this before I had bought mine! 😠
Not had a problem with mine, and it's had plenty of use. What's the problem you are seeing? It might be a manufacturing defect.
Aren't there different types of boom arm? Some have ball-bearing and some don't?
Rossmann pointed out that the one he had was far superior to the Leica one, so yeah....