Oh boy, as an about to have my first try at warping a loom, I’m so glad I found this top ten mistakes! Now I am free to find plenty more as I struggle to master the craft! Thank you so much!
PS No one ever told me to start tying off the yarn from the middle of the heddle. None of the books give that hint, nor do most of the videos! What a fantastic, logical idea! Thank you for that incredibly helpful tip! :-D
New weaver from the UK here. Thank you for this really helpful Top Ten. I've already figured out why my first weave looks like it went 10 rounds with Ali 😂 Thank you x
Thank you so much. I have a Kromski Harp 24", and I wish I had discovered you from the beginning. I've made them all, and after watching, I realize I'm still making a couple.
Thanks so much for all of the tips! I was given a brand new 15 inch cricket loom with a stand in trade for drop spindle lessons a couple of days ago. I am so excited to use my handspun yarns for weaving now that I’ve watched this video.
You are so welcome. If you haven't already, check out more beginner tips at www.poffstudio.com/blog. Full online courses coming soon. Much success with your new addiction!
oh my! I wish I had found this video before I started trying to weave on my own!!! I did the #1 mistake, but had no one to call for help. Needless to say, it took me about an hour and consulting multiple weaving books before I realized that I tied my yarn on the rod wrong. No desire for shortcut, just ignorance!!! Guess what? I don't think I will ever make THAT mistake again!! LOL! Sometimes the value of making stupid mistakes, eh? Thanks for this awesome educational video, though felt you might have been a little more compassionate for those of us who make these mistakes innocently!
Sorry you felt I was not compassionate. In fact, I've made many of those mistakes myself. This one was meant to make your learning curve shorter than my own. If I can cover any special topics for you in future videos, I invite you to email me through my website, www.poffstudio.com.
Agree it was a bit harsh. Sometimes professionals forget they had to start at some point and unfortunately have little compassion for newbies and exoect perfection from the start.
Can't wait to get started---i've ordered your books and am researching looms, trying to decide which way to go---i'm interested in tapestry weaving as well as weaving on the rigid heddle loom and the table loom---so basically, i've only ruled out the floor loom at this point, as it "scares" me, quite frankly! i'm just so excited about the work/art, and the weaving/fiber community seems like a tight group of wonderful, creative, fun people!
Welcome to weaving and thanks for your interest in my books. I'm a big fan of starting with a 15" loom for portability and since you can achieve so much with this size. Then, like me, you may want to add a 25" or 30" for the (occasional) larger project. I've noted that there is significantly more "manhandling" with the 30", so I prefer the 25" myself. You can get a little tapestry done on your rigid heddle but may want to graduate to a tapestry loom if you get serious. They are better for the tensioning and upright facility if you do that kind of weaving. Happy Weaving!
Before I even get any loom, I wanted to learn as much I could to know what I was getting into. I wanted the right type of loom and have it making me happy for a long time before I even cared about weaving much or looking for another loom. Anyway, I know now that I will be getting a rigid heddle loom and will do my best from day one. This video was playing almost by accident and it was the best thing to watch before even with a loom in my house. I'm SO glad to have taken the time to watch this video!!
No matted how many videos you watch, believe me, you will make at least 1 mistake!. We all do, even those who have been weaving awhile make them. You'll be in great company!
This is great all of it. but! I can't see how to do the half surgeon's knot well enough. Some people might know this but I don't so I'm googling to make sure I do it right.
I got to ask the question! why the paper?. I see all weavers do that but, why? thank you and I really hope to hear from you. The up and over make sense, but I guess we got to learn in the hard way 🙂 why not.
Hi Adam. The importance of packing the warp with paper (or cardboard warp sticks, or rubberized shelf liner, or any flat flexible material that is not slippery or spongy) is to separate the layers of yarn you will wind on. Think of warp threads piling on top of warp threads creating hills and valleys and messing with the tension. Something to separate these layers is critical. Happy weaving!
Hi,newbie here. Bought a flat loom for starters at a craft store. Not having much success. Now I hear of this type of loom but it seems confusing for setting it all up. Is it worth it to invest in this type of loom?(need a small one)
I have been having some trouble with my shed being small and I IMMEDIATELY went to go see if I'd made mistake #1, thankfully that was not the case. Looks like it's a tension issue because I tied my knots from side to side. I'll have to remember to start from the center in my next project. Along with keeping my selvages a little tighter.
Hopefully this video helps. Without more detail there can be other answers to the problem. If your issue persists, contact me through www.poffstudio.com where we can share more information.
@@poffstudio3328 thank you so much! I’ll give tying the knots from center out a try and fiddle with it a bit. I only just started so I expect that I’ll have some wonkiness to work through :).
Don't be afraid of good, firm tension. The yarn can take it since the pressure is shared between multiple ends. It is too tight if you can't move your heddle easily, but too loose if you heddle doesn't stay in place effectively. Happy weaving.
All rigid heddle weaving requires packing between the yarn layers as they roll onto the back beam. Otherwise, when yarn rolls on yarn, hills and valleys are formed that mess with the tension as new layers pile on. Kraft paper is a popular packing material, but weavers use everything from plastic blinds to cardboard sticks to rubberized shelf liner to keep yarn off yarn on that beam. I have an online course with all of my tips and advice for the beginner at weavingwithpoffstudio.com if that would help. Best wishes- Tammy
That is just tying a half knot where you pass one strand around the other and then passing that strand around the other again before you tighten the knot. I holds a little better than just one pass. Medical people tell me that it is not really what a surgeon does, lol.
Another video counted the holes and the slots to arrive at the count. I originally thought that you only count the slots to determine dents per inch. Please clarify for me. Do you like the Kromski Presto? I want it in the worst way!!! Or, the Glimakra!!!! Or, the Kromski Harp!!! Or, the Schact Flip. The only thing I'm sure of is the size will be between 15" and 20".
Sorry so slow, Sharon. Just back from vacation. I remain a Schacht fan for stability and engineering. I have the 15" Cricket for portability and quick use and the 25" flip for larger projects. Have had problems with Kromski ratchet assembly and apron strings in my classes, but some of that has been addressed by newer models I believe. I'm not as impressed with their tensioning ability in any case, but many love their Kromski. No experience with the Glimakra and have not seen it in class. 15" can do a lot, but if you don't plan on taking it alot of places, those extra few inches can be nice with the 20". Your reed dent is the number of threads per inch allowed so this means counting both slots and holes. Best wishes for happy weaving!
Though I phrased it differently in my mind ("why do I only have ONE shed???!) when I got to the #1 mistake I realized thats what I did. I had watched a video where there was no bottom beam and I have a cricket loom. I had to retie the end of my warp only to realize that I didn't move the apron rod in the back where I initially tied the yarn on OVER the tip back beam. So guess what I had to do??? Yep... I had to remove all the warp from the heddle and tethered through all the slots and holes. Yeah don't make this mistake people!
I am also guilty of not being able to get my shed open, but I don't understand how to fix it from your video. Where can I find out more information about this so I can fix it?
There are many answers to that question that depend on knowing specifics. First, what type of loom do you have? If a Schacht Cricket, you may be neglecting to pass you warp over the top front beam (warp going directly from the rod to the heddle and angling upward when the loom is sitting flat is a common error). Warp should be parallel with the table top when it is sitting flat on a table. Second, you may be positioning your heddle in the wrong places as you weave. If you have the Schacht Flip, people often don't realize that the down shed is created by placing the heddle all the way underneath the block that holds it. After that, it may be that your yarn is very sticky and you need a shuttle or warp stick in the back open shed to pry the fibers apart as you work. Also make sure you have enough tension. If your heddle falls in the top position, you need to tighten. Hope that helps.
Hi, I am warping my rigid heddle loom for the first time and have watched your video on common mistakes so going ok thank you. However I think I got in a muddle regarding when I take the yarn under/over the warping stick - does this matter if I have in the odd place?
I'm not certain what you mean by "have in the odd place". If you are talking about pulling the yarn around the apron rod as you sley loops through the reed, you will know if you missed doing that essential step if the yarn makes a horizontal line showing at the back of the heddle where you missed wrapping the rod. The yarn will not wind on at that location so you would have to cheat a little and carefully cut that loop at that line to tie it around the rod before you can wind. If you are referring to having more warp ends on one side of the back center apron string than the other, that is fine. If I am still off track here, feel free to email me further detail at www.poffstudio.com using the contact form.
I didn't see one of the problems I'm doing. When I'm warping the loom, some of the yarns end up longer than others. Possibly because of the number of ends? I try to make sure that my loom is centered to the warping peg.
This is to be expected. One reason is your selvage threads travel farther from heddle to peg as they are the outer legs of a triangle. These will normally be longer. Also, if your yarns are varied in elasticity, the more elastic ends may shrink. Not to worry, you can trim the longer ends if they are bothersome. Normally standard calculations will give you some excess if you want to even them up.
For packing narrower weaving, I favor rolls of rubberized shelf liner (the non-adhesive, perforated stuff). It's very stable. I haven't found it wider than 20" though. I would purchase a roll of 48" wide kraft paper for ease of use on wider weaving. You can find it online as most of the retail store rolls are 30" wide. Warp sticks cut (about 7/8" deep x your beam width) from heavier matt board from the craft supply store will also work nicely, but are more expensive with more handling required. They do help firm up longer warp lengths, even if you just alternate a few between cuts of kraft paper. Some of my students use the cheap vinyl blinds from the discount store for wider widths with success. I have not tried them personally. You will likely have to remove some hardware from them to use.
Great video. I dont have the money for a loom yet but I'm saving up for one. This video is preparing me to get started the right way! :D thanks girl. PS: that woven vest is gorgeous! I will get your book when I get a loom!
I’ve got one for you .Heddle all threaded and ready to tie on. Sitting at the front of my loom and see the heddle is facing backwards withe lumpy side facing me. Is this only on the Ashford heddles or are they all flat on one side and lumpy on the other? I assumed you should only beat the weft with the flat side so I threaded it all onto the 10 dent from the 7.5 dent so my warp wouldn’t get out of order, turned the heddle around and rethreaded it onto the 7.5 again. Was this necessary or did I make a bunch of extra work for myself? P.S. this was a 16” with a 9” scarf warp.
Hi Joyce. I had an Ashford Knitters Loom several years ago. I sold it. Nothing against Ashford. I just like their standard loom better than the Knitter's (more stability for the wear and tear I put on a loom). That lumpy side is an Ashford thing. While I'm not an expert on the benefits of the lumpy side, I can tell you that I worked with each side forward and it was fine. I know that is not good news after the fact. Maybe it will help to tell you that I spent all day yesterday crafting a fancy cuff for a woven sweater, hated it, and then ripped it off and trashed it last night! Some days are like that...
Hi LInda. Thanks for your interest. You can find it on Amazon at this address: www.amazon.com/Woven-Style-Rigid-Heddle-Loom/dp/0998459003/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2TZY29RAEH41B&dchild=1&keywords=woven+style+for+the+15+rigid+heddle+loom&qid=1605193124&sprefix=woven+style+for+the+15%22%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-1. Happy weaving!
@@poffstudio3328 thank you❗️I just ordered it and looking forward to receiving it this weekend. I love your videos and watched them over and over while sitting up my loom. The yarn is on and ready to weave. Thanks a lot for all your great information.🌸
Yes, likely #6 is avoided that way, although sleying the reed flat if you are seated requires a lift to the shoulders that can result is sore shoulders and harder to see what goes on behind the reed when you are trying to pull the ends through. Lately (for pulling loops and sleying) I've taken to placing a rubber band on each side of the reed from the top rail to the bottom rail where it sits in the slot each side. This keeps it in place beautifully so you can retain ergonomics. Will show you in next video. There are many ways to get it right though, and I always say you should do it the way you find most comfortable.
I find doing it standing up at a higher table (one that I cut out fabric or design things on) is about right, but whichever way you do it, if you do it for too long, at my age, you ache the next day!
Is it possible that you might have skipped the part where you sley the reed (moving one thread of each loop from the slot to the adjacent hole)? The threads in the holes do all the up and down and the slot threads stay home.
@@mlboone3028 Having a hard time knowing the problem without photos. What comes to mind is not warping over the top of tension beams on the Cricket loom, not setting the Ashford knitters loom at its weaving angle after warping, excess thread crossing behind the reed, mohair set too close, not putting the Schacht flip loom in the right position on the down shed...Can you contact me through www.poffstudio.com? Send me quick note through the contact form and I can send you my email so we can share some photos.
@@poffstudio3328 I figured it out with help from a friend there is no down slot for the Schacht flip loom ... it just goes down without a slot for the heddle
In the beginner video you started tying off at the right edge and here you are saying to start in the middle and work alternatively to each side. And, that to start at the edge is a mistake. Does that mean you instructed us to make a mistake from the very start. My Ashford loom instructs to start at the edge. This is very confusing for a newbie like me! I bought my loom 5-6 years ago, followed your video to get started, but it just didn't work as easily as it apoears. I folded it up and put it back in its box where it still remains to this day.
Hi Ellen - I think you might be confusing the tying on at the back beam where you must start when you draw loops (we'll call that step 1) with the final tying onto the front beam (we'll call that step 4). I can see that my language could have been clearer - apologies. In step 1, you must start at 1 side (right handers usually start at the right, left handers at the left). In step 4, tying the front ties, your tension will be significantly more balanced if you start in the middle and alternate each side as you tie each 1" bundle outward to the selvedges. This will be more clear and easy when you get to that final step. If you feel you are struggling, you might want to look over my online course, "Rigid Heddle Weaving: Learn to Weave with the V Cowl" at weaving-with-poff-studio.thinkific.com/. It is comprehensive and full of my tricks for beginners and I support any questions from there. Best wishes.
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Oh boy, as an about to have my first try at warping a loom, I’m so glad I found this top ten mistakes! Now I am free to find plenty more as I struggle to master the craft! Thank you so much!
Welcome and much success!
I'm a new rigid heddle weaver. This video is terrific! You are very clear and straightforward and I appreciated this very much.
You are welcome. Weave on, girl!
Thank you. I was doing that last one and I could not understand why a good brand of loom would have such a problem. I can’t wait to try this fix
I have a rigid heddle loom on my wishing list (60 cm Kromski Harp Forte), and this video on 'speed dial' for when it arrives 😃👍 Thank you so much!
PS No one ever told me to start tying off the yarn from the middle of the heddle. None of the books give that hint, nor do most of the videos! What a fantastic, logical idea! Thank you for that incredibly helpful tip! :-D
New weaver from the UK here. Thank you for this really helpful Top Ten. I've already figured out why my first weave looks like it went 10 rounds with Ali 😂 Thank you x
LOL! You are welcome. Happy weaving!
This was the best video ever...watched so many...this is the only one I found that showed how to warp solo. Thank you
Thank you so much. I have a Kromski Harp 24", and I wish I had discovered you from the beginning. I've made them all, and after watching, I realize I'm still making a couple.
Kelley I
Mr, Poff thank you for your replay you got me a bit smarter 🙂.
Thanks so much for all of the tips! I was given a brand new 15 inch cricket loom with a stand in trade for drop spindle lessons a couple of days ago. I am so excited to use my handspun yarns for weaving now that I’ve watched this video.
You are so welcome. If you haven't already, check out more beginner tips at www.poffstudio.com/blog. Full online courses coming soon. Much success with your new addiction!
As an almost new weaver, I have made just about all these mistakes! Thank you so much for your very clear video. I hope you will make many videos. A+
Thank you for the tips. I've been using a table loom in class but just bought a RHL, these tips will really help with my first project. 👍👍👍
Great video! I’m just starting my first weaving project and I appreciate previewing these mistakes.
Glad to help. Happy weaving!
oh my! I wish I had found this video before I started trying to weave on my own!!! I did the #1 mistake, but had no one to call for help. Needless to say, it took me about an hour and consulting multiple weaving books before I realized that I tied my yarn on the rod wrong. No desire for shortcut, just ignorance!!! Guess what? I don't think I will ever make THAT mistake again!! LOL! Sometimes the value of making stupid mistakes, eh?
Thanks for this awesome educational video, though felt you might have been a little more compassionate for those of us who make these mistakes innocently!
Sorry you felt I was not compassionate. In fact, I've made many of those mistakes myself. This one was meant to make your learning curve shorter than my own. If I can cover any special topics for you in future videos, I invite you to email me through my website, www.poffstudio.com.
גום נול
Agree it was a bit harsh.
Sometimes professionals forget they had to start at some point and unfortunately have little compassion for newbies and exoect perfection from the start.
Can't wait to get started---i've ordered your books and am researching looms, trying to decide which way to go---i'm interested in tapestry weaving as well as weaving on the rigid heddle loom and the table loom---so basically, i've only ruled out the floor loom at this point, as it "scares" me, quite frankly! i'm just so excited about the work/art, and the weaving/fiber community seems like a tight group of wonderful, creative, fun people!
Welcome to weaving and thanks for your interest in my books. I'm a big fan of starting with a 15" loom for portability and since you can achieve so much with this size. Then, like me, you may want to add a 25" or 30" for the (occasional) larger project. I've noted that there is significantly more "manhandling" with the 30", so I prefer the 25" myself. You can get a little tapestry done on your rigid heddle but may want to graduate to a tapestry loom if you get serious. They are better for the tensioning and upright facility if you do that kind of weaving. Happy Weaving!
Excellent video. Thank you! I am a new weaver and have taken 1 class, so nice to know these things now.
Thanks to you! Glad to help. Watch for new video this week for fixing common problems.
Thank you!! This was the best video and a must see for all weavers.
Wow! Excellent! Thank you for clearing all of this up!
I will forget what you've told me, but I know where I can rewatch it! Thanks.
Thanks a lot for this video!!!
Glad to help! Happy weaving
Great tips and great advice. Appreciate you taking the time to show this.
Thank you so much for this information
Before I even get any loom, I wanted to learn as much I could to know what I was getting into. I wanted the right type of loom and have it making me happy for a long time before I even cared about weaving much or looking for another loom. Anyway, I know now that I will be getting a rigid heddle loom and will do my best from day one. This video was playing almost by accident and it was the best thing to watch before even with a loom in my house. I'm SO glad to have taken the time to watch this video!!
No matted how many videos you watch, believe me, you will make at least 1 mistake!. We all do, even those who have been weaving awhile make them. You'll be in great company!
This is great all of it. but! I can't see how to do the half surgeon's knot well enough. Some people might know this but I don't so I'm googling to make sure I do it right.
Thanks for the tips. ✌
I use blind slats instead of paper. Works similarly to Ashford's cardboard.
Thank you, very helpful!!
I got to ask the question! why the paper?. I see all weavers do that but, why? thank you and I really hope to hear from you. The up and over make sense, but I guess we got to learn in the hard way 🙂 why not.
Hi Adam. The importance of packing the warp with paper (or cardboard warp sticks, or rubberized shelf liner, or any flat flexible material that is not slippery or spongy) is to separate the layers of yarn you will wind on. Think of warp threads piling on top of warp threads creating hills and valleys and messing with the tension. Something to separate these layers is critical. Happy weaving!
Hi,newbie here. Bought a flat loom for starters at a craft store. Not having much success. Now I hear of this type of loom but it seems confusing for setting it all up. Is it worth it to invest in this type of loom?(need a small one)
I have been having some trouble with my shed being small and I IMMEDIATELY went to go see if I'd made mistake #1, thankfully that was not the case. Looks like it's a tension issue because I tied my knots from side to side. I'll have to remember to start from the center in my next project. Along with keeping my selvages a little tighter.
Hopefully this video helps. Without more detail there can be other answers to the problem. If your issue persists, contact me through www.poffstudio.com where we can share more information.
@@poffstudio3328 thank you so much! I’ll give tying the knots from center out a try and fiddle with it a bit. I only just started so I expect that I’ll have some wonkiness to work through :).
Don't be afraid of good, firm tension. The yarn can take it since the pressure is shared between multiple ends. It is too tight if you can't move your heddle easily, but too loose if you heddle doesn't stay in place effectively. Happy weaving.
What is the paper for? I’ve watched about a two dozen videos on loom weaving and this is the first time I’ve I’ve seen paper being used
All rigid heddle weaving requires packing between the yarn layers as they roll onto the back beam. Otherwise, when yarn rolls on yarn, hills and valleys are formed that mess with the tension as new layers pile on. Kraft paper is a popular packing material, but weavers use everything from plastic blinds to cardboard sticks to rubberized shelf liner to keep yarn off yarn on that beam. I have an online course with all of my tips and advice for the beginner at weavingwithpoffstudio.com if that would help. Best wishes- Tammy
Would like to see what the surgeons knot is.
That is just tying a half knot where you pass one strand around the other and then passing that strand around the other again before you tighten the knot. I holds a little better than just one pass. Medical people tell me that it is not really what a surgeon does, lol.
Thank you
You are so welcome! Wishing you happy weaving.
Another video counted the holes and the slots to arrive at the count. I originally thought that you only count the slots to determine dents per inch. Please clarify for me. Do you like the Kromski Presto? I want it in the worst way!!! Or, the Glimakra!!!! Or, the Kromski Harp!!! Or, the Schact Flip. The only thing I'm sure of is the size will be between 15" and 20".
Sorry so slow, Sharon. Just back from vacation. I remain a Schacht fan for stability and engineering. I have the 15" Cricket for portability and quick use and the 25" flip for larger projects. Have had problems with Kromski ratchet assembly and apron strings in my classes, but some of that has been addressed by newer models I believe. I'm not as impressed with their tensioning ability in any case, but many love their Kromski. No experience with the Glimakra and have not seen it in class. 15" can do a lot, but if you don't plan on taking it alot of places, those extra few inches can be nice with the 20". Your reed dent is the number of threads per inch allowed so this means counting both slots and holes. Best wishes for happy weaving!
Though I phrased it differently in my mind ("why do I only have ONE shed???!) when I got to the #1 mistake I realized thats what I did. I had watched a video where there was no bottom beam and I have a cricket loom. I had to retie the end of my warp only to realize that I didn't move the apron rod in the back where I initially tied the yarn on OVER the tip back beam. So guess what I had to do??? Yep... I had to remove all the warp from the heddle and tethered through all the slots and holes. Yeah don't make this mistake people!
Thank you !
Oh my, I had to laugh, the only one of those mistakes I have never made was #1. The other 9 I am guilty of making at some point or another.
Thanks! I make this in Russia. This art ist russian tradition.
I am also guilty of not being able to get my shed open, but I don't understand how to fix it from your video. Where can I find out more information about this so I can fix it?
There are many answers to that question that depend on knowing specifics. First, what type of loom do you have? If a Schacht Cricket, you may be neglecting to pass you warp over the top front beam (warp going directly from the rod to the heddle and angling upward when the loom is sitting flat is a common error). Warp should be parallel with the table top when it is sitting flat on a table. Second, you may be positioning your heddle in the wrong places as you weave. If you have the Schacht Flip, people often don't realize that the down shed is created by placing the heddle all the way underneath the block that holds it. After that, it may be that your yarn is very sticky and you need a shuttle or warp stick in the back open shed to pry the fibers apart as you work. Also make sure you have enough tension. If your heddle falls in the top position, you need to tighten. Hope that helps.
@@poffstudio3328 Thank you so much for your time and thoughtful response! I will check my tension. (And I do have the Schacht Flip!)
Hi, I am warping my rigid heddle loom for the first time and have watched your video on common mistakes so going ok thank you. However I think I got in a muddle regarding when I take the yarn under/over the warping stick - does this matter if I have in the odd place?
I'm not certain what you mean by "have in the odd place". If you are talking about pulling the yarn around the apron rod as you sley loops through the reed, you will know if you missed doing that essential step if the yarn makes a horizontal line showing at the back of the heddle where you missed wrapping the rod. The yarn will not wind on at that location so you would have to cheat a little and carefully cut that loop at that line to tie it around the rod before you can wind. If you are referring to having more warp ends on one side of the back center apron string than the other, that is fine. If I am still off track here, feel free to email me further detail at www.poffstudio.com using the contact form.
I didn't see one of the problems I'm doing. When I'm warping the loom, some of the yarns end up longer than others. Possibly because of the number of ends? I try to make sure that my loom is centered to the warping peg.
This is to be expected. One reason is your selvage threads travel farther from heddle to peg as they are the outer legs of a triangle. These will normally be longer. Also, if your yarns are varied in elasticity, the more elastic ends may shrink. Not to worry, you can trim the longer ends if they are bothersome. Normally standard calculations will give you some excess if you want to even them up.
I just bought 48 in rigid heddle. What would you recommend using for paper?
For packing narrower weaving, I favor rolls of rubberized shelf liner (the non-adhesive, perforated stuff). It's very stable. I haven't found it wider than 20" though. I would purchase a roll of 48" wide kraft paper for ease of use on wider weaving. You can find it online as most of the retail store rolls are 30" wide. Warp sticks cut (about 7/8" deep x your beam width) from heavier matt board from the craft supply store will also work nicely, but are more expensive with more handling required. They do help firm up longer warp lengths, even if you just alternate a few between cuts of kraft paper. Some of my students use the cheap vinyl blinds from the discount store for wider widths with success. I have not tried them personally. You will likely have to remove some hardware from them to use.
Great video. I dont have the money for a loom yet but I'm saving up for one. This video is preparing me to get started the right way! :D thanks girl. PS: that woven vest is gorgeous! I will get your book when I get a loom!
Welcome to weaving and thank you!
I’ve got one for you .Heddle all threaded and ready to tie on. Sitting at the front of my loom and see the heddle is facing backwards withe lumpy side facing me. Is this only on the Ashford heddles or are they all flat on one side and lumpy on the other?
I assumed you should only beat the weft with the flat side so I threaded it all onto the 10 dent from the 7.5 dent so my warp wouldn’t get out of order, turned the heddle around and rethreaded it onto the 7.5 again. Was this necessary or did I make a bunch of extra work for myself? P.S. this was a 16” with a 9” scarf warp.
Hi Joyce. I had an Ashford Knitters Loom several years ago. I sold it. Nothing against Ashford. I just like their standard loom better than the Knitter's (more stability for the wear and tear I put on a loom). That lumpy side is an Ashford thing. While I'm not an expert on the benefits of the lumpy side, I can tell you that I worked with each side forward and it was fine. I know that is not good news after the fact. Maybe it will help to tell you that I spent all day yesterday crafting a fancy cuff for a woven sweater, hated it, and then ripped it off and trashed it last night! Some days are like that...
Hi Tammy, wondering where I can buy your book on 16” ridgid heddle loom?
Hi LInda. Thanks for your interest. You can find it on Amazon at this address: www.amazon.com/Woven-Style-Rigid-Heddle-Loom/dp/0998459003/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2TZY29RAEH41B&dchild=1&keywords=woven+style+for+the+15+rigid+heddle+loom&qid=1605193124&sprefix=woven+style+for+the+15%22%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-1. Happy weaving!
@@poffstudio3328 thank you❗️I just ordered it and looking forward to receiving it this weekend. I love your videos and watched them over and over while sitting up my loom. The yarn is on and ready to weave. Thanks a lot for all your great information.🌸
I use parchment paper from the grocery store. Easy availability.
Another good idea!
My wife uses thin block out curtain fabric instead of paper with weaving.
Great idea!
From where you learn that???
...6 years of teaching new weavers. This video is dedicated to shortcutting the obstacles to mastering our craft.
you could avoid mistakes 5 and 6 by keeping the loom flat on the table until you are ready to start weaving....?
Yes, likely #6 is avoided that way, although sleying the reed flat if you are seated requires a lift to the shoulders that can result is sore shoulders and harder to see what goes on behind the reed when you are trying to pull the ends through. Lately (for pulling loops and sleying) I've taken to placing a rubber band on each side of the reed from the top rail to the bottom rail where it sits in the slot each side. This keeps it in place beautifully so you can retain ergonomics. Will show you in next video. There are many ways to get it right though, and I always say you should do it the way you find most comfortable.
I find doing it standing up at a higher table (one that I cut out fabric or design things on) is about right, but whichever way you do it, if you do it for too long, at my age, you ache the next day!
I just warped my new loom and my threads just stay in one position they don’t move up and down ? Help
Is it possible that you might have skipped the part where you sley the reed (moving one thread of each loop from the slot to the adjacent hole)? The threads in the holes do all the up and down and the slot threads stay home.
@@poffstudio3328 no I did that , then I tried to weave but the threads all stay in the up and down position they don’t change
@@mlboone3028 Having a hard time knowing the problem without photos. What comes to mind is not warping over the top of tension beams on the Cricket loom, not setting the Ashford knitters loom at its weaving angle after warping, excess thread crossing behind the reed, mohair set too close, not putting the Schacht flip loom in the right position on the down shed...Can you contact me through www.poffstudio.com? Send me quick note through the contact form and I can send you my email so we can share some photos.
@@poffstudio3328 I figured it out with help from a friend there is no down slot for the Schacht flip loom ... it just goes down without a slot for the heddle
@@mlboone3028 You got it! Common confusion for Flip users in the beginning - heddle goes all the way under the heddle block. Love my Flip!
Ojalá fuera subtitulado
In the beginner video you started tying off at the right edge and here you are saying to start in the middle and work alternatively to each side. And, that to start at the edge is a mistake. Does that mean you instructed us to make a mistake from the very start.
My Ashford loom instructs to start at the edge.
This is very confusing for a newbie like me! I bought my loom 5-6 years ago, followed your video to get started, but it just didn't work as easily as it apoears. I folded it up and put it back in its box where it still remains to this day.
Hi Ellen - I think you might be confusing the tying on at the back beam where you must start when you draw loops (we'll call that step 1) with the final tying onto the front beam (we'll call that step 4). I can see that my language could have been clearer - apologies. In step 1, you must start at 1 side (right handers usually start at the right, left handers at the left). In step 4, tying the front ties, your tension will be significantly more balanced if you start in the middle and alternate each side as you tie each 1" bundle outward to the selvedges. This will be more clear and easy when you get to that final step. If you feel you are struggling, you might want to look over my online course, "Rigid Heddle Weaving: Learn to Weave with the V Cowl" at weaving-with-poff-studio.thinkific.com/. It is comprehensive and full of my tricks for beginners and I support any questions from there. Best wishes.
small loom @t