$50 Soundproofing Hack
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มี.ค. 2017
- How to add even more soundproofing to a room yourself for under $50!!!
Ended up finding EVEN CHEAPER solutions - Go check them out with these links -
Acoustical Sealant - amzn.to/2neXqHT
Putty Pads Option 1 - amzn.to/2nf2T1j
Putty Pads Option 2 - amzn.to/2neLQfE
Caulk Gun - amzn.to/2nvNFXG
Huge thanks to our sponsors Polywall, Huber, Cosella Dorken, Prosoco, Marvin Windows, Roxul, & DAP for helping to make these videos possible!
For more information on their products visit them in the links below:
www.Cosella-Dorken.com
www.Poly-Wall.com
www.Huberwood.com
www.Prosoco.com
www.Marvin.com
www.Roxul.com
www.DAP.com
Varying the thickness of the drywall on either side of the wall will cut down on noise. The difference in thickness (say 1/2 inch inside the hallway and 5/8 in the bedroom) results a wall where sounds cannot resonate well through them. The difference in thicknesses prevents resonance, leaving you happy.
The first half of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
Soundproof rooms need a double layer of drywall with an air space in between, provided by a metal track you can get at any drywall supply house. Not cheap but works the best. Sound travels through solids, like a normal drywall system, it travels through the studs. Need an air gap
Nope. That would be terrible. It causes a phenomenon known as 'triple leaf'. The proper way to do it is put the track on the studs then install double drywall stuck together with green glue. Look up green glue.
Green glue is just the same garbage he suggested.
Don't tell me what I should do between the sheets.
LOL
i love the links to the products, thank you, finally someone that gets the links in the vids, ty
How can you not use flexible hosing for the electrical wiring? fun jobb if u need to re-wire or do some modification. And regarding soundproofing just use glass whole sheets between the cc60.
thank you for the tips. Going to take your advice.
Can you spray that foam stuff in ur other video on top of these putty pads?
Can I glue together putty pads with the quiet glue on to a hole in the wall?
Love it. Will be using it in my garage.
I want to sound proof my car on the cheap. Like super cheap. Will Sheetrock do?
Isn't there supposed to be a 1/2" gap between the floor and the drywall?
Pure silicone stays flexible and waterproof. The putty pads can also be purchased as fire block and do two things: sound and fire resistance. A real soundproofing method would be a super dense rubber sheet behind the drywall and an air gap between interior and exterior studs. A "hack" would be a layer of carpet on the walls. This video has no hacks.
Hahahaha hahahaha...I see what you did...
What's the difference between the green glue and the other glue Franklin sound sealant
This is noise reduction, not sound proofing. Especially if you aren't paying attention to an exterior wall, or talking about light fixtures etc. Would have loved to see an actual test showing decibel difference, but I bet it's less than 5db, something you could accomplish by simply placing a crib in a different part of the room...
Exactly! I'm skeptical of anyone who claims to "sound proof."
Can that be sanded and painted?
Thank you! I was looking for something to sound proof my workshop. Just about hang dry walls!
Combine those products with some Roxul Safe and Sound in the stud bays and you've got a pretty quiet area!
That is a great option, but costs more than $50.
Michael Hensley totally agree!
roxul is only a few bucks more than fiberglass and money better spent than that expensive worthless caulk
Mark Soberay I've used roxul and regular pink no diff and pink is way way cheaper. Trust me. Many other better ways to but not enough room to type. Check out av rant and also google Dennis Erskine. ;)
Thank God someone finally said it, fiberglass insulation is all basically the same.
Man, I wish I had this knowledge 30 years ago, we had 8 children, 4 boys and 4 girls. It would have been so nice to just shut the door while they figured out who was going to survive.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
he sealed between outlet and drywall with quite a lot smeared on the drywall, what about the painting process
Nick Raimondo It would be covered with the receptacle cover, you'd just paint over it like you would normally. I would make sure not to smear it too much, but the acoustic sealant might be paintable
If you could do a soundproofing for a staircase that would be amazing. Like decoupling the treads.
Is there a spray foam you could use instead? The putty sheets seem slow to install especially if you want to cover all outlets. Could one use spray foam insulation and kill two birds?
+Lawrence Lane nope. Spray foam won't work
It would be nice if you could provide an example of two finished rooms in the same house, one with the sound treatment and one without.
We put insulation in all the interrior walls and ceiling in my basement and the doors is what lets in the most noise.
Trying to get more soundproofing for a room for not too much more money over these methods, is Roxul in the stud bays the next priority? For a bit more money over that, would a second layer of drywall, preferably with green clue, be the next level up?
You're only as strong as your weakest link when it comes to sound proofing. I'd look at the doors before moving onto double drywall and green glue. Doors are usually the weak link in an assembly. Hopefully Matt will make a video on doors.
An important note is to use the heavier regular drywall, not the lightweight stuff. If in doubt google the specifications of the drywall you are buying. Too many people here with little idea of how soundproofing works - it is a complicated subject. Hint: insulation like Roxul does not make a huge difference. For $50 this is the best advice you can use. If you want better soundproofing be prepared to spend $$$$.
www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/4-elements-of-soundproofing/
This is a lot a great info. Thank you.
Fancypants 'acoustic sealant' .... or Sikaflex?
What about off setting the drywall panels!
Doesn't matter unless theres more than one layer.
Would silicone not work just as well as it flexes?
Proteus6684 i was thinking the same thing!
@@mcmxc3794 I could be wrong, but I believe silicone don't last very long.
Sheetrock seams? Wouldn't the mud and tape be enough?
No
Yes
A D maybe
$25 for the small patches
$25 for caulking
if you have a ONE small room
What if sheet rock is already down and I want to sound proof a ceiling?
You mean what if it's already up. Then u gotta take it down
Use steel studs for interior walls
You talk frequently about soundproofing walls but what can be done for interior door options?
All sorts of options. Heavier doors will help, but air sealing is best. Try upgrading seals and look into a drop down seal. Companies such as Pemko and Zero International make these products.
Solid core doors with a particle board core. As thick you can get.
typically drywall is hung 1/2 inch off of the subfloor.
Don't use a hollow door. And maybe spray foam before installing trims on the door frame
I just used fire proof caulking around the outlets.
This isn't sound proofing - and it isn't a hack.
If you are building a new home or remodeling a home and you are down to the studs then soundproofing should be built into the budget for a project of this size.
Wouldn't spray foam accomplish the same for less?
Debbie Locke beat me too it. Same question. Foam seems cheaper and quicker to install
No, the mass of the caulk is important. Foam drys hard as well.
Funny, I thought drywall was supposed to be ceilings first, upper parts of the wall second and the lower part of the wall last. This would mean the application of the sound proofing caulk would need to be applied upside down. This must be "Advanced Drywalling" too! This is freaking me out!
Damn. Good points. The whole caulking thing is pointless as he explains here
I thought empty and open knockouts weren’t code?
silicone?
these ideas will do little to help stop sound. not a good bang for the buck.
caulk drywall seams? come on. those should be filled with durabond before tape anyways. and did you seriously just leave that caulk mess around the outlet? how are you suppose to cover that? jumbo covers??
best bet it insulate the interior walls. even the R11 cheap batts work fairly good.
The idea is that sound will travel through the open air ways easier than anywhere else. That's the reason for calking and wrapping the boxes.
I understand the reason for calking between the sheetrock boards as this helps to keep the boards themselves from vibrating against each other, or allowing sound to pass through. Yes, putty will be on the outside. However, he did say that using regular calk would harden over time. The hard calk/putty will transmit sound just as easily as if there was nothing there. The sound calk will stay soft and absorb the sound instead of transmitting it.
Granted, I don't believe these few tricks will do a whole lot just by themselves. I agree, put some batting in between the walls to add extra sound dampening. Also, instead of the $20+ tube, I'm wondering if silicon calk would work just as well. It stays pliable and soft years, even decades, after it's been installed. Just look at the stuff in bathroom seems.
truth. or if you really want to be great build a room inside a room like a real recording studio.
you obviously have no real experience soundproofing and only reflect on your own logic, which is wrong.
This comment is wrong and i regret it. I leave the original text so Korishan makes sense and i learned from it.
Please elaborate instead of just slamming. You make yourself sound nonsensical with blatant disrespect and unfounded responses. If you have proof of your assessment, pass it on so others can learn from factual knowledge, not be stupified by ignorance.
Korishan. Thank you for that insight. I indeed was just slamming and did not even read the original post properly. What i took from the video is that preventing air-leaks is the best first step to prevent noise from getting into another room and i read skliros comment as if that is not true. But indeed skliros has a point on how construction works and putting costly materials on places that will become airtight any way is a waste of time and money. My apologies.
wheres the test proof?
cool so i can use my kids silly putty to sound proof. great ideal
Reason for video: Huge thanks to our sponsors Polywall, Huber, Cosella Dorken, Prosoco, Marvin Windows, Roxul, & DAP for helping to make these videos possible!
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Nice video Matt. Rod Gervais (recording studio architect) mentions he likes Big Stretch from Sashco for air sealing. It's cheaper and they sell it at Lowes too.
Todd Lastname I wouldn't use that. It's a siliconized latex and will harden.
Big Stretch does not harden which makes it great option and one of the reasons that many recording studios have wall assemblies air sealed with it. For what's its worth, many caulks labeled as acoustical sealants are siliconized latex. All that's needed is a caulk that remains flexible and doesn't crack.
Matt seems tome any of the decent brand name elastomeric caulks would work well as sealants and cheaper than quiet seal or green glue sealant (also i know Tremco makes an acoustical sealant caulk)p;
Silicon would work
wrong 3:43
a lot of painters CAULKING FLEXIBILITY X3 X5 EVEN X300 TIMES FLEXIBLE. .
OF COURSE Cheapers they will cracked.
* but not to many are fireproof.
That caulking is fireproof?
still not make sense to me why caulking on the joints? ?
joints has a mesh and mud so it's a air sealed already + primer + paint.
mostly people don't know how to apply caulking. .
if you doing a mess on the drywall. . drywall guys can't sand caulking to make smooth finish. . ?
use 100% silicone instead, it's only 2$ a tube and stays flexible and seals extremely well.... fuck "acoustic" garbage that's expensive... let's get the real hacks know
Whoa his eyes are huge
Frankly, the puddy and acoustic sealant doesn't do much unless combined with the sound proof drywall sheets. all three combined will do a great job. Not cheap though.
gosh dammit... i only got $49...
Huge difference? Not at all. Sound transfers through solid material more than through air. Just think of you kid running down the hallway. It shakes floor, walls, and no amount of air gap filler is going to stop that. Build it like a recording studio and maybe it will be a huge difference. It's all a system and each little part contributes but if you only do a tiny bit you get a tiny result.
exactly!!
You are right that sound is not one thing but you are wrong that transmission through the air is insignificant. He is not cutting out all sources of sound transmission but by sealing the gaps he is cutting out one big source. You can't do better for $50. This is not a 'tiny bit'.
It would make a difference in the example he used of a dryer buzzing, as that sound is transmitted from a device through air to your ears. In your example if a kid running down a hall, the sound is being transmitted through the materials of the house, and then into the air and to your ears. They require different methods to alleviate.
Ideas like the ones in the video should be effective for voices, but not for headboards banging against the wall.
Not true. Sound travels faster though solid objects, but the mass of an object is what dampens it when traveling through air. A tiny opening is essentially having zero mass between the noise and the receiver. Making something airtight then adding mass will sound-proof. Also you are mixing two concepts, sound generated by striking a wall or floor is different then sound traveling first through air and then hitting that same wall.
ROXUL SAFE AND SOUND + SOUNDBOARD + RESILIENT BARS + QUIETROCK or CERTAINTEED SOUND FX
IT IS A PROCESS
this is some pretty sloppy work if you'd ask me
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Is that shit flammable
You are wrong sir.
cheaper option.......just don't have kids
cheapest option.......just don't buy a house
Cheap option. .
we shouldn't born.
That is way more than cheap, thats a steal of a deal
cheaper option......use a noose
How does the sound travel through a brick wall with an air gap? Oh now I understand, American houses are built like we build garden sheds in the UK. If you want it to last (you know, like centuries) and be sound proof build it to British standards :)
andrew allen nice garden shed!
Andrew Allen. Just because it was built with brick and mortar doesn't mean it was built well. Our government doesn't tell us what we must build our homes out of, only that they meet the minimum safety requirements. in 2016 the UK built approximately 151,700 new homes. Contrast that with the US, which on average builds 1,200,000 new homes every month and you start to get a clear picture of who the experts are. The real question is why spend the extra time, money, and resources on a home that you believe will last for centuries when you only need it or lifetime? The UK way? Nah Little buddy we got this.
Snake oil
I see no "hack", just one persons opinion of how to soundproof. I see a whole lot of expense on special sealant that isn't doing anything special. What sound do you think you're sealing between the subfloor and drywall bottom? The entire face of drywall acts as a resonator and transfers through the studs and into the next room. Your statement that painters caulk gets hard and brittle compared to this expensive alternative is poopoo. A quality painters caulk is made from silicone, which stays flexible too. Your link indicates this stuff is $10/28oz cartridge, not $25. I do admit, I like the putty pads.
He used Quiet Seal Pro in the video but gave a link to Titebond Acoustical Sealant. Last time I was at White Cap supply they had some 28oz tubes of acoustical sealant (don't know the brand) but it was under $6.
I totally agree with your assessment of the drywall acting as a resonator. Drywall acts a bit like a drum and the denser the studs (matal studs are the worse) the greater the sound transfer.
you are supposed to apply green glue between the studs and drywall to dampen sound as well as build double walls ideally and double thick drywall layeringwith green glue between layers of drywall to help vibration dampen.
To save material and labor, I would rather suggest Isotrax for a true sound deadening solution. This page (nothing I'm affiliated with) provides a good summary of the process and outcome. www.soundproofcow.com/product/isotrax-soundproofing-system/
let's say you have a false wall behind the actual wall with studs that don't touch the other wall, except for the top bracket will connect to stud frames, other than 7/8 plywood and air and/or insulation, what would you recommend to put in between those walls
So caulk it
Thats just fiddling with the smallest fiddle in the world. Thumbs down this is ridiculous!
Sure are a lot of know-it-alls in the comment section here. Probably building terrible houses. Matt, you must have a lot of courage.
you should be caulking the studs and caulking between 2 layers of drywall to prevent vibrations. Sealing is good, but you are doing zero vibration dampening..
Just put a stereo in the room and turn the volume up. You won't be able to hear any noise from the other rooms. THAT is a hack.
this is recording shit mane
This is dumb. You will be spending $50 on nothing. To sound proof the room has to be isolated. A wall connected to another wall is going to carry the sound. It has little to do with tiny "air holes".
There's a significant difference between, sound reduction and sound proofing. I'm curious to know if you received money to plug this crap.
what a waste of money.
Use sound proof drywall.
There is no sound proof drywall, only drywall.
NathanSibs there's a product called quiet rock - pretty sure it's the same company that makes the stuff in the video - which is like a double layer of drywall with a layer of flexible adhesive between.
This is not soundproofing. This will only knocked down the decibels of mid to higher frequencies like closing a tight window. If you wish to sound proof you will have to go to much more effort.
Nothing is soundproof. Soundproof has become the laymens term for sound isolation.
Well that's not true... but also, this "sound isolation" is crap advice at best. Do you really think most of the sounds are coming through outlets and the BOTTOM of the drywall which is BACKED BY A 2X4?
No.
Then where is it coming from? How could you improve it for under $50?
I would save the 50 dollars. These are last steps but are not significant in reducing decibels.
And put the laundry room somewhere else... Lol
selling snake oil
O
You're wrapping an awful lot of stuff around electrical cables. What about fire safety?
It's designed for that.
That was pretty sloppy caulking around the receptacle Matt...as a painter by trade, I shudder to think of the finished look of that one. I'm pretty sure your drywaller will not be impressed.
yeah .. no .. I don't buy that, you say that sheet rock is great at sound proofing? .. dude.. what? I mean.. what are we comparing to? nothing? then yeah.. but, brick is brick .. and unless you stuff the whole cavity with sound dampening material, you will hear everybody taking shit...
Why not build the better/safer concrete homes?
They're not necessarily safer. Not combustible does NOT mean fireproof.
Believe it or not, concrete is an excellent transmitter of sound. It is not great for soundproofing.
False, concrete is great for sound isolation, the more mass the better.
The more mass the better but its stiffness transmits vibrations very easily. Mass is great when it is not firmly coupled to something else.
Concrete of equivalent thickness will outperform a single stud partition any day. It's not about "stiffness" in practice.
I`M from BRAZILIAN
I see yours videos here
it is very good
Drywall is good at noise reduction because it's dense? Then a concrete room must be really good at sound dampening...right? Look, there is a reason that professional sound rooms/studios use foam for sound dampening; dense material is bad at noise dampening. This is why the old popcorn ceiling texture was so good at limiting echo but once you scraped it off many rooms became echo chambers. Especially if they had tile instead of carpet.
I think you are trying to limit inter-room noise transfer. In which case, abosorbtion is still better than reflection. So foam or batting in the walls will take care of this.
ballzack57 all wrong. Only density stops sound. Foam and popcorn will stop reflection of sound but not passage of sound. So yes a concrete wall will stop sound. Duh.
ballzack57disrespectful to misinformed idiots like you? YES
ballzack57 ha! Oh yes! Can I start with yours? 😜
My...dictionary? Sure. www.dictionary.com/
ballzack57 a dictionary would help you, but even more so a physics 101 textbook. I'll refer you to nearest library. 😘
illegal wiring at 1:58.
Shawn Smith the way it is stapled? What don't you like about it?
Why is it illegal?
why not test the the acoustics in a room with and without this acoustic seal of yours. douche. proof is nice.
Using the term sound proofing is inaccurate. Sound deadening is a more accurate term.
No, noise isolation is the correct term.
NathanSibs sorry but it is sound deadning. Low frequency still transmit and based on your video the STC can not be high enough to be sound proof.
1. I definitely did not make this video...
2. We're talking about transmission through a barrier, so it is noise isolation not sound deadening. I don't know anyone who seriously uses that phrase...
3. There is no STC rating that would constitute "sound proof".
Boringgggg
Excuse me sir where is your chin
chin- gada?