Check this out: I also bought myself a $100 Gazebo / Pergola (200cm x 200cm) and placed it in my basement on a noise absorbing rug. I left the outside "walls" off and placed moving blankets on all five sides. Got myself a 10M led strip for the inside and some bass traps in the corners and foam on the inside off the blankets. Super easy set-up for recording with my D18 and singing at the same time straight into my iPhone using the Roland Go Pro mix. Call me cheap but I just love my little "tent" inside my basement. cozy
Here's the budget version that gets 90% the effectiveness. 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock on both sides of the wall. Make the wall a staggered stud, 24" on center wall with 2x6 top and bottom plate and 2x4 wall studs. Fiberglass insulation in the cavity (NOT mineral wool, I promise). No greenglue. More or less done. Details do matter. It should be 100% sealed with caulk. Any caulk works. They all stop air movement. You can spend a fortune on the details shown here with very little gain. For the home brew folks, this is the bees knees.
Yeah the folks at green glue marketing stumbled on a gold mine with their "converts sound into heat!" line. Anything that traps sound vibration ( so: caulk, foam, insulation, water, etc.) will in turn vibrate. Vibration causes friction. Friction releases heat energy. This is absolute basic physics, which I'm sure I slightly mangled, but green glue does not have a patent or monopoly on physics.
All true, Noneya. I would also add simple tar paper, preferably to the studs before the first layer of sheetrock, and/or before the second layer as well. This is due to different absorbtion and vibration levels. Also, it's cheap. Lastly, use the foam gaskets for outlets and light switches.
100%. I'm using green glue between both layers on mine but only because I got an amazing deal on it. It's frankly too expensive otherwise to matter; if you want more sound isolation, better to put up a third or fourth layer of drywall, as long as you have space and your framework can support it. If I didn't get the deal on the green glue, I would have tested with two layers of 5/8" GP, and added more if necessary. Gypsum is relatively cheap!
@@ClintonJudy Much cheaper than green glue and just as effective is to purchase polyiso insulation boards (available at Home Depot and Lowe's) and sandwich them between your two layers of 5/8 drywall. The dissimilar materials touching makes for a huge reduction of sound transfer...Sound in the room hits the inner layer of 5/8 and that drywall has a specific resonance to it, then it hits the polyiso board which has a completely difference resonance, so it changes the vibration transmission rate, and then what vibration energy (sound) is left has to go through that second layer of 5/8" drywall, which is again different from what the vibrations were just competing against (the polyiso board). Icing on the cake is if you have sound isolation clips with hat channel and your 3 layers are screwed into that channel so there are no walls touching directly to the wall studs. Double layers of 5/8 give you more mass, which is good, but if they are touching, they are vibrating at the same resonant frequencies and therefore will not dampen the sound as much. That's what your green glue is doing...it's acting as a dissimilar material between the two drywall boards so the sound energy is drywall>green glue>drywall, but at a huge price tag. Hope this helps!
@@brandonswafford861 Hey Brandon, you got any 3rd party (or even 1st party) STC ratings to show that setup? I'd like to check that out. Polyiso is expensive AF, but cheaper than green glue. I've used Roberts Carpet Adhesive from the big box store in place of green glue, but I can't verify it's effectiveness and it's a pain to use.
Daaaaaayyyyyyyummmmm! This setup is dope as hell. I'm converting the back of a box truck into a pro studio... space is an issue, but hopefully I can still pull off something as epic as this! Thx for the vid 🤘
@@WilsonHarwood it worked out! If you want to see some of what I did with it there are some videos on my IG @thevoborny ... I recorded around 30 songs in there and then outgrew it. Definitely doable!
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Those are not the clip types anyone should use as you have a far more direct mechanical connection than you should. Better than going straight to the stud as then the board is against the entire stud but it is still transferring all the vibration right to the hat channel. Using RSIC-1 or Whisperclip style clips are what you should use (besides doing a whole other wall..) if you want to minimize the vibration.
For anyone looking at this. I really recommend Rockwool instead of Pink Insulation. It stays dry if there is moisture, condensation or water leak in the future.
Rockwool costs more and has minimal sound benefits over similar R value fibreglass, especially once you start using hat channel / resilient channel, double 5/8" drywall with green glue or QuietRock. Better to spend that savings per sq ft on MLV for the ultimate quietness. Regarding fire rating, if you're waiting around for flames to penetrate double 5/8" drywall there are bigger issues. I've also seen experiments with fibre glass exposed to a propane flame where it seems to hold up well.
Here in Québec,Canada,between the 2x4 wood studs,we put rockwool safe and sound,then we screw in a 4x8 sheet of Sonopan and then add the resilient channels and then 2 sheets of 5/8'' drywall to soundproof the wall.
@@WilsonHarwood Hi Wilson,well I am still in the process,I think I have covered all the bases.The rockwool,the sonopan,double sheets of 5/8" gyproc and I also read and saw in another video,they use soundproofing caulking around all the seams of the wall and outlets.Using acoustic panels also helps.
@@christianpolytechnique7404 Hey Christian, yes the acoustic caulk goes around all the seems of your walls and where the wall and ceiling meet. You can also use it around outlets and light fixtures. Rockwool really isn't necessary. There isn't any scientific evidence that it adds to the soundproofing and it costs way more. You can use it if you want, but you may be wasting some money there. Regular pink insulation works great if you build your walls right. I have a website where I have a free course that goes a bit more in depth if you want: www.soundproofyourstudio.com. Please let me know if you have more questions. Happy to help!
Rock wool is garbage and you won't find any in an a-list studio, ever. In fact it can actually transmit sound if it's not incredibly loose but design eliminates the need for it anyway. Corning 703 is good for broad band absorbers and Helmholtz resonators but don't buy into it for sound proofing because it's limp dense material that will stop sound along with a properly designed inner and outer room. A shame lead is so unhealthy. Gold would do in a pinch but...
@@drampadreg1386 yeah, that's not true. Rockwool has the same absorption coefficient as 703. I've been involved in several high end studio builds and all of them implemented rockwool. 703 is great for treatment because of the rigidity and lack of sagging, but it's way overhyped.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
While some have already described this as overkill, it's actually what I think most acoustical engineers would regard as semi-pro. This is what you build as a local facility that does band gigs, etc., or as a high-end home theater within a modest budget. This is not how you model, build, and test places like The Power Station in NYC, Sound Kitchen in Nashville, The Village in LA, or Criteria in Miami -- just so no one is misled. Did some work in this field when TEF machines and LEDE were emerging technologies and designs. Obviously I am old...
Reflected Miles I am building a house from scratch soon and would appreciate any advice so I get it right the first time. I will be 50' away (and up on the second floor) from their closest wall but they use their backyard very often too which would merely be 15' away. Anything you can say (especially for HVAC and junction boxes) I could really use!
That was pretty basic. I want more info for the whole thing... the process.. the costs... the actual STC rating, how it compares for bass, treble, and mid frequency sound, how you worked around power, flooring, and roofing. Needs alot more detail dude.
Hey Raiden! I totally agree. I built a studio in my backyard from the ground up and I didn't find many great videos on youtube. I am building a course to teach others how to soundproof a room and would love your feedback! Here is a start to the course for free if you are interested: www.soundproofyourstudio.com.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
In my youth I built a rehearsal studio in a garage. Double sheetrock, double doors, etc. When it was near completion I found the air leaks by walking around the garage while the band was rehearsing and listening for where the sound was leaking out. By listening I could pinpoint the leak to a specific place on a joint and fix it. Unfortunately the studio did not work out. We had burned out bridges with out elderly neighbor before we insulate the garage for sound. She complained one more time after we finished. The police officer walked up to the garage and knocked on the door. No one answered. He then opened the door and knocked on the inner door. He explained that while he could barely hear the band, the police had received an N+1 complaint and that we would be cited the next time. Back then the law did not have a dB rating. Instead it prohibited any amplified music in a residential neighborhood. Sigh, it really was a great rehearsal space. We wound up moving to a different house across town.
with all that air flow= sound flow sealant, what do you do for ventilation throughout the 3 rooms of the studio. without compromising the soundproofing.
Just frame in a crack unit with an access panel. Evaporator in the ceiling with a condensate pump. Condenser hole for the supply and return refrigerant copper and seal it. Done.
Rockwool, RC channel and at least 2 layers of 5/8 drywall. (Ive done 5 layers in movie theaters). The cost difference compared to the difference in reults is insignificant if you're serious enough to build a studio. Would you put a Volkswagen beetle engine in your lamborghini because it's a $1000 cheaper?
Finishing my basement and need some advise .... I am finishing a rec area which i have in my basement which i am now converting to a media room (not a dedicated theater but more like a lounge area where i will have a projector/screen and a descent sound system). 2 sides of the room are against the foundation of the basement and have solid concrete. One of the walls is against the utility area which is where i have the water heater. The 4th wall is a shared wall with renters who stay in another part of my basement. So here is my question -> Should i use green glue for all the 4 walls and the ceiling or should i only consider applying. that on the wall which is shared with the folks who rent my basement? I do intend doing a double dry wall on the wall which is shared with the renters as well as the ceiling but am confused about how generous i should be with using Green glue. I also intend using roxul safe and sound on the shared wall as well as the wall against the utility room and the ceiling. Please advise.
What I don't understand is when you use caulk for the joints, how do you get a flat mud surface over top if it? If the caulk is bulging out like in the video, aren't you going to wind up with a lumpy appearance once you mud over it? And if you sand too much you're gonna be sanding caulk. Or do you use your finger to press the caulk lower than the drywall's edge and then mud it to be flush?
If you are serious about designing a serious room, this guy is a well known and desired studio designer and his website (link on his videos) has room mode analyzers that save you freakin' hours of sitting with a calculator dividing twice the length of the room into the speed of sound in fps or mps then making a graph for each dimension using the multiples of the fundamental frequencies to about 400Hz over and over until you get it right. It also has much more and it's free. th-cam.com/channels/mAjEZ1xMg-0KA6AxYJm-Pg.html
Ummm...what holds the metal "hat (horizontal) channels" are "isolation clips"? ...would have liked to have seen what they look like. As what secures the metal channel to the studs needs to be isolated as much as possible.
I know this is an older video, but I'm really curious about the window you used and the window install between the rooms? I would imagine both the window and install would need special attention for this project.
I definitely wouldn't recommend spray foam insulation. It doesn't have great acoustic properties and is expensive. Just build it right with double walls or using hat channels and then use the good old pink stuff!
I believe that would be owning a Sunfrost with a DC compressor. Perhaps not exactly silent, but heavily insulated with one moving part, I think. The AC versions are probably about as noisy as others, though. It's not cheap, of course.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Make sure to decouple the floor first, then build the walls on top of rhe floor and then the ceiling making sure none make contact with the existing structure. In other words, don't let the studio/control room/iso rooms DO NOT make contact with the exiting structure. If you don't follow these CRUCIAL requirements, you are just spinning your wheels.
@@mattwickham6985 how come? do you suspend the box from bungee cords? How do you hold it in place? silicone stress balls on the floor, then build the box on top?
So Matt why not use Rockwool instead of regular insulation? Now I have not done a recording studio but I have done doctors offices where they have a need to limit sound and not take up more space with thick walls ( 2 separate offset 2x4 walls ect. )Double 5/8” on each wall and Rockwool has worked well . I am always up for more knowledge. Thanks for your channel.
Expensive materials like rockwool and green glue make more sense when space is at a premium. I'm not against using those for working inside existing architecture. But if you're building a brand-new facility, you'll save a lot of money by planning for the walls to be much thicker, and using cheaper materials like fiberglass and multiple layers of gypsum.
Hey! Been fighting with the best ideas for soundproofing an enclosure for portable inverter generators(Live sound engineer in the age of 2021 - outdoor venues). Green glue vs mass loaded vinyl; sheetrock vs osb vs medium density vs plywood; double wall vs stacked; clips vs everything; quiet rock; Rock wool vs fiberglass; Low end vs mids vs high end; and of course activated carbon $$$(think I saw you on that site). This is getting frustrating, in that the best answer, appears to spend a whole bunch of money, put up all kinds of mass, and at least 12 inches per wall for enough sound absorbing dead space. LOL Have a good one!! Carl
@@CarlsOpinion Did you measure the amplitude and frequencies you need to create a barrier for? That's the only way to determine what you need to create a barrier. Did you not listen to what the guy at Acoustic Fields' says? That's the FIRST thing you have to do, otherwise you're wasting time/money.
@@CarlsOpinion What you expect an acoustic engineer to figure out what you need for free? At least what he'll recommend will work. Why would you guess and use something that most likely won't work? That doesn't make ANY sense. FYI, yes, Activated Carbon has been tested to be effective at much lower frequencies and at a higher level of absorption. It's a combination of porosity and mass. What? you think that compressed fiberglass or rock wool is going to do much to absorb low frequencies? Dream on.. I had discussions with the guy at Acoustic Fields about 7 years ago and he's tested EVERY major type of absorption material and compared commonly used against Activated Carbon. So, he's already tested it. Scientifically. He's also built wall structures using steel plate and concrete too. So it all depends on what your problem is.. Whether you need it for your specific situation remains to be seen, so you have to measure the problem first.
@@Oneness100 I have no problem paying for service. What is insulting, is not being up front with his youtube audience about what he is peddling. If you want to be on TH-cam to make money, fine, but you shouldn't dodge people's questions, if you are going to have an active comment section. Let people know up front, that we are here to sell a certain product, and give them the answer, to wit: "Activated Carbon is the best, we sell it, but it's expensive, here are some other solutions if you're on a budget". I do that in my business. Carl
Depends on space and usage, id you can build thick walls and gonna listen to music wood is better according to some but it's hard to beat drywall if you want maximum sounddampening and lower cost.
Floating the floor can really help with soundproofing, but it's incredibly expensive. Second best option is a concrete slab, you can pour separate slabs for the live room and cr to decouple them as well.
As long as the metal channels are held by any solid element to the wooden framing THERE IS A MECHANICAL CONNECTION. I keep hearing about "no mechanical link" when they use this clips. For sure they minimize contact but is not correct to say there is no mechanical link.
Yes that is what I thought. And a huge metal grid of channels and fancy clips??? That's hardly going to help in my book! That sound is going to run along the studs and to the screws and onto the channels with joy! At the very least they could use some softer material at this point. It seems that these guys have the usual American love of strength; solidity and over-design niggling away at them sub-consciously, when the ethos of a recording studio must surely be softness, floating delicate-structures and multiple layers of dissimilar sound-absorbing materials.
Question. I am building a basement studio which both the vocal booth, part of the control room, and the tracking room has exterior concrete foundation stem walls floor to ceiling. The outside of these walls are earth. Each of these walls have insulation which makes the rooms very well balanced per reflection. I put up new 2x4 on 16" center walls in front of the insulated concrete exterior walls and was not going to sheet rock these walls being the do a great job right now as per sound absorption with no echo. Fore decor I was planning on building framed fabric panels to attach to these walls for aesthetics but utilizing the already great sound absorption. Have you done this and what are your thoughts on this technic? Bear in mind these are only exterior walls with insulation and earth on the outside.
Hey Gary! Sounds like you have an ideal starting point. I built a studio in my backyard from the ground up and would have loved to have the isolation of earth and a concrete foundation to start with. My question is simple. How soundproofed is the basement already? Seems like if the walls and floor are concrete and surrounded by earth then you may have all the sound isolation you need. I would be most concerned with your ceiling. Is it a standard would deck? Also your door to the studio will need to be rock solid too. Please let me know if you have more questions. I would be happy to help since I just went through the whole process myself.
Would you have to put those clips on both side of the wall for this to work? or can you just do the inside wall where you have DJ equipment and the other side just hang the studs directly to the studs
Hey Ace! How is your studio build going? Did you find all your answers? I am building a course to teach producers how to build a soundproof studio. I would love feedback on what has been helpful on youtube and what is lacking for building a soundproof studio. Thanks!
Hey Jack! For windows I would recommend building them yourself. Build a double wall with a one inch air gap and then put 1/2" laminate glass on the outside and 3/8" tempered glass on the inside. I did that in my studio and could not be happier with the soundproofing. I can help you with full install directions if you want. Feel free to reach out at info@soundproofyourstudio.com. Happy to help!
Air vents and returns are tricky. In my own home studio, we used the flexible cloth & foil kind of ducting instead of the rigid aluminum ducting between the furnace and my room. I don't get any mechanical noise transfer into my room from the furnace, but I definitely lose some effectiveness in overall soundproofing due to the hole in the wall that accommodates the vent. There are a few designs that add baffles in the duct to help mitigate this, but you're still basically putting a giant hole in your nice airtight soundproof room. But a person has to breathe!
same concept with the double wall thing for the windows, rubber sealant at the base of the window with acoustic panels below and above I believe, the actual windows should be around 10mm thick and they should both differ in thickness. Doors must be solid core, not hollow, have sealant around the frame and maybe even door jams that seal the bottom gaps in the door once its closed. I'm not a pro but that's the general idea of what to do Im pretty sure.
Hey Hakim - The last reply was pretty on point. For windows I would recommend building them yourself. Build a double wall with a one inch air gap and then put 1/2" laminate glass on the outside and 3/8" tempered glass on the inside. I did that in my studio and could not be happier with the soundproofing. The door is a bit more complicated but overall you use a solid core door with 8PSF of sheet lead and then a layer of 3/4 cabinet grade plywood. You also need to install weather stripping seals and finish off with magnetic weather stripping seals. I can help you with full install directions if you want. Feel free to reach out at info@soundproofyourstudio.com. Happy to help!
Hey man.. I'm trying to make a recording booth (with plywood and 2 ×4 ) in my closet.. (I live in an apartment with a very bad soundproof) what insulation should I put between the play wood?? Thanks
I highly recommend the Soundproofing Company! Have you started your build? I just finished building a studio in my backyard and would be happy to help out.
A fortune for greenglue alone. Budget version with 90% of the efficiency is 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock and fiberglass insulation in the cavity. See here. th-cam.com/video/3mGbPHx_8X8/w-d-xo.html
One cannot overlook the importance of tying the interior wall to the channel only or what we call resilient channel in the industry. Hat channel, lol. One screw hitting the framing stud negates your entire effort.
Hat channel is a perfectly descriptive term to virtually anyone looking to buy it. "One screw" hitting the framing absolutely does not negate the "entire effort". That's ridiculous. 1/8" of screw body doesn't magically transmit full decibal value through a solid wood stud and mass wall. Stop making ridiculous, snobby claims and starting sentences with "One" like some 19th century collegiate.
@@noneyabidness7226 awww did I hurt your feelings? I'm sorry Wally. Remember, the devil is in the details and this is "pro-level" lol - 5 years ago. I'll keep making my ridiculous snobby claims just to irritate the likes of people like you. Don't blame me for your inept vocabulary or limited horizons. Good grief, someone must have really hurt you long ago. Let it go dude.
Just make an 6' high 2'x2' box of sandwiched materials.... using gyproc, wool and iso-foam. Instal 4 castors from Home Depot on the bottom. Get inside, and problem with wife sorted!
So this is how Tupac really died.... The frikkin ceiling fell onto him. Studio covered it up, put him in Knights car. It was a set up and stuff fell down. I get it now! LOL
Mineral nonconductor like Roxul would are so much superior for sound dampening/ proofing compared to fibreglass insulation. it might conjointly offer you higher R-value, is fire-proof, waterproof, mold-resistant, and tho' they do not state it, several consultants square measure spoken language that it's white ant and different cuss proof/ resistant. « Back
Wow! Voll gut! Und wer von Euch einen schalldichten Proberaum im Keller haben möchte, hier ist die Bauanleitung dazu: th-cam.com/video/30MHMdh6nJI/w-d-xo.html
You used the cheap shit. The best soundproofing insulation cost 50 dollars a bag it is well worth the extra money if you don't want a bleed through.. Fire and soundproofing insulation don't go cheap go right.
When used inside of a wall, the pink stuff has just as good of acoustical dampening as mineral wool or other material. It's the mass of the wall and the decoupling from the rest of the structure that does most of the work. The insulation is just there to deaden the air and transfer the vibrations into heat.
Check this out: I also bought myself a $100 Gazebo / Pergola (200cm x 200cm) and placed it in my basement on a noise absorbing rug. I left the outside "walls" off and placed moving blankets on all five sides. Got myself a 10M led strip for the inside and some bass traps in the corners and foam on the inside off the blankets. Super easy set-up for recording with my D18 and singing at the same time straight into my iPhone using the Roland Go Pro mix. Call me cheap but I just love my little "tent" inside my basement. cozy
Here's the budget version that gets 90% the effectiveness. 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock on both sides of the wall. Make the wall a staggered stud, 24" on center wall with 2x6 top and bottom plate and 2x4 wall studs. Fiberglass insulation in the cavity (NOT mineral wool, I promise). No greenglue. More or less done. Details do matter. It should be 100% sealed with caulk. Any caulk works. They all stop air movement. You can spend a fortune on the details shown here with very little gain. For the home brew folks, this is the bees knees.
Yeah the folks at green glue marketing stumbled on a gold mine with their "converts sound into heat!" line. Anything that traps sound vibration ( so: caulk, foam, insulation, water, etc.) will in turn vibrate. Vibration causes friction. Friction releases heat energy. This is absolute basic physics, which I'm sure I slightly mangled, but green glue does not have a patent or monopoly on physics.
All true, Noneya. I would also add simple tar paper, preferably to the studs before the first layer of sheetrock, and/or before the second layer as well. This is due to different absorbtion and vibration levels. Also, it's cheap. Lastly, use the foam gaskets for outlets and light switches.
100%. I'm using green glue between both layers on mine but only because I got an amazing deal on it. It's frankly too expensive otherwise to matter; if you want more sound isolation, better to put up a third or fourth layer of drywall, as long as you have space and your framework can support it. If I didn't get the deal on the green glue, I would have tested with two layers of 5/8" GP, and added more if necessary. Gypsum is relatively cheap!
@@ClintonJudy Much cheaper than green glue and just as effective is to purchase polyiso insulation boards (available at Home Depot and Lowe's) and sandwich them between your two layers of 5/8 drywall. The dissimilar materials touching makes for a huge reduction of sound transfer...Sound in the room hits the inner layer of 5/8 and that drywall has a specific resonance to it, then it hits the polyiso board which has a completely difference resonance, so it changes the vibration transmission rate, and then what vibration energy (sound) is left has to go through that second layer of 5/8" drywall, which is again different from what the vibrations were just competing against (the polyiso board). Icing on the cake is if you have sound isolation clips with hat channel and your 3 layers are screwed into that channel so there are no walls touching directly to the wall studs. Double layers of 5/8 give you more mass, which is good, but if they are touching, they are vibrating at the same resonant frequencies and therefore will not dampen the sound as much. That's what your green glue is doing...it's acting as a dissimilar material between the two drywall boards so the sound energy is drywall>green glue>drywall, but at a huge price tag. Hope this helps!
@@brandonswafford861 Hey Brandon, you got any 3rd party (or even 1st party) STC ratings to show that setup? I'd like to check that out. Polyiso is expensive AF, but cheaper than green glue. I've used Roberts Carpet Adhesive from the big box store in place of green glue, but I can't verify it's effectiveness and it's a pain to use.
Daaaaaayyyyyyyummmmm! This setup is dope as hell. I'm converting the back of a box truck into a pro studio... space is an issue, but hopefully I can still pull off something as epic as this! Thx for the vid 🤘
Box Truck Studios how is your Box truck coming.
@@servantapashia7724 im curious as well.
Hey Aaron! How did your box truck studio build go? Super curious!
@@WilsonHarwood it worked out! If you want to see some of what I did with it there are some videos on my IG @thevoborny ... I recorded around 30 songs in there and then outgrew it. Definitely doable!
@@voborny Glad it worked out! I tried to find the IG account but only saw a few posts with a hashtag. What a cool idea!
Would be awesome to see the room once it's finished too (:
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Yes, especially how they dealt with the door.
Bill seems like a cool dude. Wish he could have spoke more. And of course, would be nice to see some before and after videos
Those are not the clip types anyone should use as you have a far more direct mechanical connection than you should. Better than going straight to the stud as then the board is against the entire stud but it is still transferring all the vibration right to the hat channel. Using RSIC-1 or Whisperclip style clips are what you should use (besides doing a whole other wall..) if you want to minimize the vibration.
For anyone looking at this. I really recommend Rockwool instead of Pink Insulation. It stays dry if there is moisture, condensation or water leak in the future.
Yeah Rockwool rocks! waterproof,soundproof and fireproof.
Rockwool costs more and has minimal sound benefits over similar R value fibreglass, especially once you start using hat channel / resilient channel, double 5/8" drywall with green glue or QuietRock. Better to spend that savings per sq ft on MLV for the ultimate quietness. Regarding fire rating, if you're waiting around for flames to penetrate double 5/8" drywall there are bigger issues. I've also seen experiments with fibre glass exposed to a propane flame where it seems to hold up well.
Here in Québec,Canada,between the 2x4 wood studs,we put rockwool safe and sound,then we screw in a 4x8 sheet of Sonopan and then add the resilient channels and then 2 sheets of 5/8'' drywall to soundproof the wall.
Hey Christian I am building a course on how to soundproof your studio and would love to know what you wished you had known when building your studio?
@@WilsonHarwood Hi Wilson,well I am still in the process,I think I have covered all the bases.The rockwool,the sonopan,double sheets of 5/8" gyproc and I also read and saw in another video,they use soundproofing caulking around all the seams of the wall and outlets.Using acoustic panels also helps.
@@christianpolytechnique7404 Hey Christian, yes the acoustic caulk goes around all the seems of your walls and where the wall and ceiling meet. You can also use it around outlets and light fixtures. Rockwool really isn't necessary. There isn't any scientific evidence that it adds to the soundproofing and it costs way more. You can use it if you want, but you may be wasting some money there. Regular pink insulation works great if you build your walls right. I have a website where I have a free course that goes a bit more in depth if you want: www.soundproofyourstudio.com. Please let me know if you have more questions. Happy to help!
@@WilsonHarwood Well I like the Rockwool cause it's fireproof and water resistant.
And does it make it 100% soundproof? Gearing up for a garage/studio room outside specifically for this so not interior or in a house
3.5" Rock wool and 5/8" drywall is how I like to do things.
Rock wool is garbage and you won't find any in an a-list studio, ever. In fact it can actually transmit sound if it's not incredibly loose but design eliminates the need for it anyway. Corning 703 is good for broad band absorbers and Helmholtz resonators but don't buy into it for sound proofing because it's limp dense material that will stop sound along with a properly designed inner and outer room. A shame lead is so unhealthy. Gold would do in a pinch but...
@@drampadreg1386 yeah, that's not true. Rockwool has the same absorption coefficient as 703. I've been involved in several high end studio builds and all of them implemented rockwool. 703 is great for treatment because of the rigidity and lack of sagging, but it's way overhyped.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
While some have already described this as overkill, it's actually what I think most acoustical engineers would regard as semi-pro. This is what you build as a local facility that does band gigs, etc., or as a high-end home theater within a modest budget. This is not how you model, build, and test places like The Power Station in NYC, Sound Kitchen in Nashville, The Village in LA, or Criteria in Miami -- just so no one is misled. Did some work in this field when TEF machines and LEDE were emerging technologies and designs. Obviously I am old...
Reflected Miles THEN WHY DONT YOU MAKE A VIDEO AND SHOW THEM HOW ITS DONE ✅
Reflected Miles I am building a house from scratch soon and would appreciate any advice so I get it right the first time. I will be 50' away (and up on the second floor) from their closest wall but they use their backyard very often too which would merely be 15' away. Anything you can say (especially for HVAC and junction boxes) I could really use!
That was pretty basic. I want more info for the whole thing... the process.. the costs... the actual STC rating, how it compares for bass, treble, and mid frequency sound, how you worked around power, flooring, and roofing. Needs alot more detail dude.
Hey Raiden! I totally agree. I built a studio in my backyard from the ground up and I didn't find many great videos on youtube. I am building a course to teach others how to soundproof a room and would love your feedback! Here is a start to the course for free if you are interested: www.soundproofyourstudio.com.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Soundproofing is not acoustic treatment
You just saved me 5 minutes, thanks.
What attention to detail! Wow.
does it work on girlfrriends?
lmao
LMAO 😂
LMAO too.
🙄
haha
These guys are personalityproof.
In my youth I built a rehearsal studio in a garage. Double sheetrock, double doors, etc. When it was near completion I found the air leaks by walking around the garage while the band was rehearsing and listening for where the sound was leaking out. By listening I could pinpoint the leak to a specific place on a joint and fix it.
Unfortunately the studio did not work out. We had burned out bridges with out elderly neighbor before we insulate the garage for sound. She complained one more time after we finished. The police officer walked up to the garage and knocked on the door. No one answered. He then opened the door and knocked on the inner door. He explained that while he could barely hear the band, the police had received an N+1 complaint and that we would be cited the next time. Back then the law did not have a dB rating. Instead it prohibited any amplified music in a residential neighborhood. Sigh, it really was a great rehearsal space. We wound up moving to a different house across town.
what a terrible neighbor
@@FixItYerself did you get it shot then continue playing?
with all that air flow= sound flow sealant, what do you do for ventilation throughout the 3 rooms of the studio. without compromising the soundproofing.
Dave Gnash same thing i wanted to kno
You can make baffles. Rod Gervais has an excellent book on this kind of stuff.
Separate HVAC systems. I think the best way is with a mini-split system and then a fresh air vent can be added.
Just frame in a crack unit with an access panel. Evaporator in the ceiling with a condensate pump. Condenser hole for the supply and return refrigerant copper and seal it. Done.
Acoustic boxes
Rockwool, RC channel and at least 2 layers of 5/8 drywall. (Ive done 5 layers in movie theaters). The cost difference compared to the difference in reults is insignificant if you're serious enough to build
a studio. Would you put a Volkswagen beetle engine in your lamborghini because it's a $1000 cheaper?
Finishing my basement and need some advise .... I am finishing a rec area which i have in my basement which i am now converting to a media room (not a dedicated theater but more like a lounge area where i will have a projector/screen and a descent sound system). 2 sides of the room are against the foundation of the basement and have solid concrete. One of the walls is against the utility area which is where i have the water heater. The 4th wall is a shared wall with renters who stay in another part of my basement. So here is my question -> Should i use green glue for all the 4 walls and the ceiling or should i only consider applying. that on the wall which is shared with the folks who rent my basement? I do intend doing a double dry wall on the wall which is shared with the renters as well as the ceiling but am confused about how generous i should be with using Green glue. I also intend using roxul safe and sound on the shared wall as well as the wall against the utility room and the ceiling. Please advise.
My house needs this for the master bedroom and bathroom!
To keep noise out? Or in?!
What I don't understand is when you use caulk for the joints, how do you get a flat mud surface over top if it? If the caulk is bulging out like in the video, aren't you going to wind up with a lumpy appearance once you mud over it? And if you sand too much you're gonna be sanding caulk. Or do you use your finger to press the caulk lower than the drywall's edge and then mud it to be flush?
This question is why I'm looking in the comments. I still don't get it
First layer gets caulk on joints not the finish layer. Then seal edges of drywall around the room on finish layer
I love the comment at the end where the "devil is in the detail". I was hoping for the detail. This is a great intro.
If you are serious about designing a serious room, this guy is a well known and desired studio designer and his website (link on his videos) has room mode analyzers that save you freakin' hours of sitting with a calculator dividing twice the length of the room into the speed of sound in fps or mps then making a graph for each dimension using the multiples of the fundamental frequencies to about 400Hz over and over until you get it right. It also has much more and it's free.
th-cam.com/channels/mAjEZ1xMg-0KA6AxYJm-Pg.html
Ummm...what holds the metal "hat (horizontal) channels" are "isolation clips"? ...would have liked to have seen what they look like. As what secures the metal channel to the studs needs to be isolated as much as possible.
what about for ventilation?
I know this is an older video, but I'm really curious about the window you used and the window install between the rooms? I would imagine both the window and install would need special attention for this project.
triple glaze, thicker glass expensive windows...1500 dollars easy
DEFINITELY THE WINDOWS AND THE HVAC SHOULD HAVE BEEN ADDRESSED
what kind of spray foam insulation do you suggest? Do you use spray foam on the ceiling in addition to the mat insulation?
I definitely wouldn't recommend spray foam insulation. It doesn't have great acoustic properties and is expensive. Just build it right with double walls or using hat channels and then use the good old pink stuff!
The guy on the left looks like he's waiting for his chance to take the guy on the right out. :-)
But seriously, good information, thanks.
Thanks for that, Darth Vader
Wht about heating and cooling the room and sound transference through vents?
I'd love to soundproof my refrigerator.
Put it inside it's own room with a robot to fetch your items for you =)
I imagine that day will come...
I believe that would be owning a Sunfrost with a DC compressor. Perhaps not exactly silent, but heavily insulated with one moving part, I think. The AC versions are probably about as noisy as others, though. It's not cheap, of course.
Get a Sub-Zero and you won't need soundproofing.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
3:13 Why not apply the Green Glue to the drywall edges before butting them together or to other surfaces?
Labor and material money
Green glue doesn't bond to surfaces. Better off with caulk since it will create an airtight seal.
Excellent Thanks
Why does the guy on the right remind me of the dad from vacation haha
Make sure to decouple the floor first, then build the walls on top of rhe floor and then the ceiling making sure none make contact with the existing structure. In other words, don't let the studio/control room/iso rooms DO NOT make contact with the exiting structure. If you don't follow these CRUCIAL requirements, you are just spinning your wheels.
The ceiling is always the beginning of your project. Then you do the walls. Once that is complete then you do the floor.
@@mattwickham6985 how come? do you suspend the box from bungee cords? How do you hold it in place? silicone stress balls on the floor, then build the box on top?
@@snorttroll4379 Cover the floor with rubber workout mats.
Very informative. Video.
So Matt why not use Rockwool instead of regular insulation? Now I have not done a recording studio but I have done doctors offices where they have a need to limit sound and not take up more space with thick walls ( 2 separate offset 2x4 walls ect. )Double 5/8” on each wall and Rockwool has worked well . I am always up for more knowledge. Thanks for your channel.
Expensive materials like rockwool and green glue make more sense when space is at a premium. I'm not against using those for working inside existing architecture. But if you're building a brand-new facility, you'll save a lot of money by planning for the walls to be much thicker, and using cheaper materials like fiberglass and multiple layers of gypsum.
What’s the STC rating and low frequency is it effective down to? Green glue with sheet rock isn’t going to go down below 125hz.
Hey! Been fighting with the best ideas for soundproofing an enclosure for portable inverter generators(Live sound engineer in the age of 2021 - outdoor venues). Green glue vs mass loaded vinyl; sheetrock vs osb vs medium density vs plywood; double wall vs stacked; clips vs everything; quiet rock; Rock wool vs fiberglass; Low end vs mids vs high end; and of course activated carbon $$$(think I saw you on that site). This is getting frustrating, in that the best answer, appears to spend a whole bunch of money, put up all kinds of mass, and at least 12 inches per wall for enough sound absorbing dead space. LOL Have a good one!! Carl
@@CarlsOpinion Did you measure the amplitude and frequencies you need to create a barrier for? That's the only way to determine what you need to create a barrier.
Did you not listen to what the guy at Acoustic Fields' says? That's the FIRST thing you have to do, otherwise you're wasting time/money.
@@Oneness100 Yea no doubt. Then after that I can pay him $1,500.00 for an evaluation and then thousands of dollars on activated carbon!! LOL
@@CarlsOpinion What you expect an acoustic engineer to figure out what you need for free? At least what he'll recommend will work. Why would you guess and use something that most likely won't work? That doesn't make ANY sense.
FYI, yes, Activated Carbon has been tested to be effective at much lower frequencies and at a higher level of absorption. It's a combination of porosity and mass.
What? you think that compressed fiberglass or rock wool is going to do much to absorb low frequencies? Dream on..
I had discussions with the guy at Acoustic Fields about 7 years ago and he's tested EVERY major type of absorption material and compared commonly used against Activated Carbon. So, he's already tested it. Scientifically. He's also built wall structures using steel plate and concrete too. So it all depends on what your problem is..
Whether you need it for your specific situation remains to be seen, so you have to measure the problem first.
@@Oneness100 I have no problem paying for service. What is insulting, is not being up front with his youtube audience about what he is peddling. If you want to be on TH-cam to make money, fine, but you shouldn't dodge people's questions, if you are going to have an active comment section. Let people know up front, that we are here to sell a certain product, and give them the answer, to wit: "Activated Carbon is the best, we sell it, but it's expensive, here are some other solutions if you're on a budget". I do that in my business. Carl
How do you seal drywall joints at corners ??
can plywood be used instead of gypsum board on the wall?
Wood is more resonant acoustically (we make instruments out of it) as well as acoustic grade plasterboard being more dense with a higher mass
Drywall has a much higher mass. You can't beat it.
Depends on space and usage, id you can build thick walls and gonna listen to music wood is better according to some but it's hard to beat drywall if you want maximum sounddampening and lower cost.
is the floor floating? How does the floor design makes it soundproof? Or is it not as important.
Floating the floor can really help with soundproofing, but it's incredibly expensive. Second best option is a concrete slab, you can pour separate slabs for the live room and cr to decouple them as well.
Regular 5/8 Sheetrock vs 5/8 quitrock is it worth the extra money?
not a big enough difference so most pros just use sheetrock
I used 5/8 sheet rock and could not be happier. Works like a charm. How is your studio build going?
As long as the metal channels are held by any solid element to the wooden framing THERE IS A MECHANICAL CONNECTION. I keep hearing about "no mechanical link" when they use this clips. For sure they minimize contact but is not correct to say there is no mechanical link.
Yes that is what I thought. And a huge metal grid of channels and fancy clips??? That's hardly going to help in my book! That sound is going to run along the studs and to the screws and onto the channels with joy! At the very least they could use some softer material at this point.
It seems that these guys have the usual American love of strength; solidity and over-design niggling away at them sub-consciously, when the ethos of a recording studio must surely be softness, floating delicate-structures and multiple layers of dissimilar sound-absorbing materials.
didn't mention anything about the metal studs
Question. I am building a basement studio which both the vocal booth, part of the control room, and the tracking room has exterior concrete foundation stem walls floor to ceiling. The outside of these walls are earth. Each of these walls have insulation which makes the rooms very well balanced per reflection. I put up new 2x4 on 16" center walls in front of the insulated concrete exterior walls and was not going to sheet rock these walls being the do a great job right now as per sound absorption with no echo. Fore decor I was planning on building framed fabric panels to attach to these walls for aesthetics but utilizing the already great sound absorption. Have you done this and what are your thoughts on this technic? Bear in mind these are only exterior walls with insulation and earth on the outside.
Hey Gary! Sounds like you have an ideal starting point. I built a studio in my backyard from the ground up and would have loved to have the isolation of earth and a concrete foundation to start with. My question is simple. How soundproofed is the basement already? Seems like if the walls and floor are concrete and surrounded by earth then you may have all the sound isolation you need. I would be most concerned with your ceiling. Is it a standard would deck? Also your door to the studio will need to be rock solid too. Please let me know if you have more questions. I would be happy to help since I just went through the whole process myself.
3am and just when I thought I was gonna go to bed lol.
Would you have to put those clips on both side of the wall for this to work? or can you just do the inside wall where you have DJ equipment and the other side just hang the studs directly to the studs
Hey Ace! How is your studio build going? Did you find all your answers? I am building a course to teach producers how to build a soundproof studio. I would love feedback on what has been helpful on youtube and what is lacking for building a soundproof studio. Thanks!
what do you do about exterior windows and doors?
Hey Jack! For windows I would recommend building them yourself. Build a double wall with a one inch air gap and then put 1/2" laminate glass on the outside and 3/8" tempered glass on the inside. I did that in my studio and could not be happier with the soundproofing. I can help you with full install directions if you want. Feel free to reach out at info@soundproofyourstudio.com. Happy to help!
What about air vents ?
Air vents and returns are tricky. In my own home studio, we used the flexible cloth & foil kind of ducting instead of the rigid aluminum ducting between the furnace and my room. I don't get any mechanical noise transfer into my room from the furnace, but I definitely lose some effectiveness in overall soundproofing due to the hole in the wall that accommodates the vent. There are a few designs that add baffles in the duct to help mitigate this, but you're still basically putting a giant hole in your nice airtight soundproof room. But a person has to breathe!
what about the ventilation for the AC??
Look into Mini split systems.
Mini split or silencer boxes that work similarly to car mufflers.
What about the door !! Critical issue and not dealt with ??
How do you sound proof doors and windows?
same concept with the double wall thing for the windows, rubber sealant at the base of the window with acoustic panels below and above I believe, the actual windows should be around 10mm thick and they should both differ in thickness. Doors must be solid core, not hollow, have sealant around the frame and maybe even door jams that seal the bottom gaps in the door once its closed. I'm not a pro but that's the general idea of what to do Im pretty sure.
Hey Hakim - The last reply was pretty on point. For windows I would recommend building them yourself. Build a double wall with a one inch air gap and then put 1/2" laminate glass on the outside and 3/8" tempered glass on the inside. I did that in my studio and could not be happier with the soundproofing. The door is a bit more complicated but overall you use a solid core door with 8PSF of sheet lead and then a layer of 3/4 cabinet grade plywood. You also need to install weather stripping seals and finish off with magnetic weather stripping seals. I can help you with full install directions if you want. Feel free to reach out at info@soundproofyourstudio.com. Happy to help!
What insulation did you use for the ceiling? Same stuff/process as the walls?
Rockwool
Hey man.. I'm trying to make a recording booth (with plywood and 2 ×4 ) in my closet.. (I live in an apartment with a very bad soundproof) what insulation should I put between the play wood?? Thanks
Clothes
regular fiberglass. See here. th-cam.com/video/3mGbPHx_8X8/w-d-xo.html
Hi Matt do you if they do soundproofing work in socal, or know a reputable contractor / company for it?
I highly recommend the Soundproofing Company! Have you started your build? I just finished building a studio in my backyard and would be happy to help out.
@@WilsonHarwood awesome do you have a contact information?
@@augustus5003 Hey you can email me at info@soundproofyourstudio.com. I am happy to help anyway I can. I know it is a big daunting project.
how about oxygen in the room? or high levels of carbon dioxide?
when you make an airtight building you must always take in consideration some HRV system
Anyone think the guys voice is soothing
GOTCHA!!!
"Ehh thats great"
hvac?
Look into mini split systems. Fujitsu.
WOW! bill sound is sound proof by default!
This is killer!! Thank you so much!
How much would a project like this cost?
Perhaps a ton of money
A fortune for greenglue alone. Budget version with 90% of the efficiency is 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock and fiberglass insulation in the cavity. See here. th-cam.com/video/3mGbPHx_8X8/w-d-xo.html
500k
What kind of batt insulation did they use?
r13
Batt?
Cinder blocks it is.
I was tempted to build like this but turns out that green glue is insanely expensive.
I learned absolutely nothing. Good job.
Send this to the top
@BurntTransistor WTF is Fortnight ?
@@thejohnmarkprojectfortnite
One cannot overlook the importance of tying the interior wall to the channel only or what we call resilient channel in the industry. Hat channel, lol. One screw hitting the framing stud negates your entire effort.
Hat channel is a perfectly descriptive term to virtually anyone looking to buy it. "One screw" hitting the framing absolutely does not negate the "entire effort". That's ridiculous. 1/8" of screw body doesn't magically transmit full decibal value through a solid wood stud and mass wall. Stop making ridiculous, snobby claims and starting sentences with "One" like some 19th century collegiate.
@@noneyabidness7226 awww did I hurt your feelings? I'm sorry Wally. Remember, the devil is in the details and this is "pro-level" lol - 5 years ago. I'll keep making my ridiculous snobby claims just to irritate the likes of people like you. Don't blame me for your inept vocabulary or limited horizons. Good grief, someone must have really hurt you long ago. Let it go dude.
Vid was a tad short compared to other build vids
If this room works for my wife, I’m on it!
Just make an 6' high 2'x2' box of sandwiched materials.... using gyproc, wool and iso-foam.
Instal 4 castors from Home Depot on the bottom. Get inside, and problem with wife sorted!
The principle of Soundproofing a studio is all contained in this blog -
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-a-garage
So this is how Tupac really died.... The frikkin ceiling fell onto him. Studio covered it up, put him in Knights car. It was a set up and stuff fell down. I get it now! LOL
Sound isolation. Not sound proofing.
I searched home studio I thought 🤷🏽♂️
this doesnt look like a real soundproof installation
I want to play my instruments at around 8 pm and my parents say I cannot because of the neighbors, so I want to make my bedroom soundproof :)
Kelcey if you play brass, get a practice mute
Mineral nonconductor like Roxul would are so much superior for sound dampening/ proofing compared to fibreglass insulation. it might conjointly offer you higher R-value, is fire-proof, waterproof, mold-resistant, and tho' they do not state it, several consultants square measure spoken language that it's white ant and different cuss proof/ resistant.
« Back
Cotton Candy! hahahaha
osom
100% wrong clamps. Will not stop transfer of noise...
What? No egg cartons / boxes on the walls? Clearly not pro...
😂😂😂
No rugs on the walls for superior sound proofing, clearly amateur hour.
Why does Bill look like a NPC
Hmmmmmm.........I bet that does not cost much to do 😂😂😂😂
Wow! Voll gut! Und wer von Euch einen schalldichten Proberaum im Keller haben möchte, hier ist die Bauanleitung dazu: th-cam.com/video/30MHMdh6nJI/w-d-xo.html
BOLLOCKS !
You used the cheap shit. The best soundproofing insulation cost 50 dollars a bag it is well worth the extra money if you don't want a bleed through.. Fire and soundproofing insulation don't go cheap go right.
Wow. This studio is going to suck...
What a terrible ad.
Overkill 101
And they're using pink insulation!!! That's hardly even sound dampening 1 And these guys are professional!! I'm looking for some REAL facts!
See insulation.owenscorning.com/homeowners/renovation/products/quietzone/ and
www2.owenscorning.com/quietzone/pdfs/QZBAtts_DataSheet.pdf
When used inside of a wall, the pink stuff has just as good of acoustical dampening as mineral wool or other material. It's the mass of the wall and the decoupling from the rest of the structure that does most of the work. The insulation is just there to deaden the air and transfer the vibrations into heat.
okay boomer
Here ya go. th-cam.com/video/3mGbPHx_8X8/w-d-xo.html
Other sources to back this. Just duckduckgo it.
Overkill to the maximum.
wannabe
The fuck u say
No such thing as soundproofing.
Sound dampening or sound isolation.
and after all of this some shitty death metal band will then use the studio...