Copied from part two... That was such fun to watch, all the simple but effective ideas that you use to make the job easier (not that it is easy) are great to see. It was a real breath of fresh air the way you shoot your videos, very calm and to the point without being over technical, like I said before, fun to watch. I didn't realise there was two parts when I started to watch but I am glad there was, could have watched this all night in truth. I am going to copy/paste this to part one. Thank you for such a great lesson, got a glue up on a Wa handle to do tomorrow, no shaping just the epoxy part but this video makes me feel more confident.
Great tip, also works for doing bedded tangs on normal hidden tang builds. If the epoxy does stick after you wax it you can always hit it with a tiny bit of heat to melt the wax and it comes right out. Saves from having to melt it back in when you finish it as well.
You can also try silicon tape - but there's something I've always wondered about the wax/vaseline trick; who do you remove the wax before you do the final glue up?
As mentioned you can wax the tang, regular furniture paste wax works great for this, Vaseline is yet another option . A second technique for bedding the tang is to wrap it with teflon plumbing tape it is ultra thin and the epoxy will not stick to it at all. Also try using the paste wax during your final glue up, fit your blade and apply the wax on the ricaso where you don't want epoxy and on the face of your front wood block. Once dry any epoxy on the waxed parts will pop right off, no fuss no muss.
You can easily avoid hydraulic lock by just drilling a tiny hole in the end of your dowel that goes through to where the dowel is cut. That way, the glue can escape through that hole and not lock up on you.
Great work on this video and several new tips and tricks I haven't seen before. Also thanks for pointing us to Noah - He's making some excellent knives!
Great trick with the clamps! Kyle royer showed a tip for removing the blade from the handle easier. He coated anything he didn't want sticking with Vaseline. May try that out!
Excellent tip. I'm just learning to make this style of handle for my chefies. I've been following Noah for a while now, but I haven't tried the WA version yet. Thanks for sharing, Jeremy
Great trick with the dowel! Definitely going to use that. When you’re doing the “rough” glue up to hold the handle together but still want to remove the knife, try smearing finishing paste wax or beeswax onto the tang before the glue up. The wax releases nicely from the epoxy, meaning you could leave it in a bit longer and let the resin harden a bit more around the tang - so you don’t have to burn it back in and risk the temper.
Thanks! Yeah I’ve been experimenting with that wax method and two days ago I got it perfect. Left the knife in for hours, blade came out fine and no burning the tang. Saves some time for sure! 👍
Very interesting video and comments. I get a chuckle when I think what this knife will be used for. How strong does the glue have to be. It would take one tough potato to pull that handle off !!! I look forward to part two. Thanks Jeremy.
I seen guys put a light coat of Vaseline or beeswax around the Tang and it usually slides out a little easier, never personally did this this way but, in theory it makes sense. Definitely going to try the way you explained soon! Thanks a lot keep up the awesome videos
I love this idea! Might I recommend doing your initial glue and clamp on a separate, longer, 1/2 dowel or tubing (to avoid the hydraulic lock) and then inserting the tang and slotted dowel on final glue in after shaping. That is what I may try myself. Thank you much for sharing!
Hey Jeremy great video! I can't wait to see the rest! It's a really nice way to do the Handel's so thank you for sharing! When I use the dowels for my knife I usually cut at small sliver of wood from the bottom of the dowel right on the slot I cut to fit the tang that way the epoxy in the handle won't make the pneumatic lock and you still have the dowel to reference. Hope this is understandable 😂 anyway thanks for all the great tips! I've learned so much from you!
I've said it before and I'll say it again. I love your video's and the detail you go to. As an knifemaker learning the ropes, it's appreciated! You should consider some training vids on Patreon or something Jeremy - food for thought!
I always worry about the epoxy being contaminated by the vasaline. My thoughts are if this works just fine without it, there is zero risk of contamination. Everyone is telling me to use the vasaline. I prefer this way.
Good looking knife and handle. Along with waxing the tang, I would use 24 hour epoxy instead of the 5 min. It supposedly makes a much better bond than the 5 min epoxy.
I'm using 5min epoxy and after one hour you can work on it... But it is much better to wait at least 12 hours before working on it. It tends to be smearing after only one hour.
Can I ask please. The white material on the handle I think you referred to as "D 10" . What is it.? And the black? I can't use plastic because epoxy won't stick to it
I use an aluminum tube with a 1/2” inside diameter to stack the handle pieces and make sure they are straight. Then I use a 1/2” dowel to fit inside the aluminum tube. It’s great because I can use leather as a spacer without it sliding out when I glue it.
Have you tried a release agent rather than melting out the epoxy? Seems I recall someone using wax as a release agent when bedding a tang but I don't recall who it was. This would be similar to bedding an action on a rifle. Coat the action with a release agent and then smear the bedding compound into the stock and bed the action, if you used enough release agent the action will pop right out of the action when the bedding compound is dry.
I'm subscribed.....lol......but the same thing can be accomplished with a caulk gun with no modification. I've put a little piece of wood at the end for smaller blades. Just get one , if you don't have one already. Look at it and think....I JUST HAD A DUHHHH MOMENT....LOL. It's very Simple and very strong...especially if you use one or two pins in the tang.
Put a small groove on the side of the dowel rod that way when you push it down the glue can come up through the groove so you don't get that little hydraulic effect
You should make the blade have an S bevel I think Alec steel done it on his chef knife he did, it’s so when you chop food it doesn’t get stuck to the blade :)
I wondered the same, but how do you make sure none of it is left before your final glue, which would otherwise make it extremely weak? I can't decide whether i'd want to put any acetone in there, and be certain it removed everything... I also don't love the idea of making that epoxy super weak by heating it. If there were a pin that would be fine, but the point of the dowel method is to keep things simple.
This video is 3 years old so this may have come up already but... wa 和 means Japan/Japanese. For example, washoku 和食 means Japanese food. Tsuka 柄 means handle. :)
So will there be a pin drilled in once the blade is reinserted? It seems like the tiny bit of epoxy you would use to reglue the blade at the very end wouldn't offer much strength
There is need for a pin. The amount of epoxy used at the end is ample for a secure hold. I’ve tested it. Only with intentional and destructive force would you get a handle off. Works slick as a whistle 👍
Yeah that works too. I’ve tried it a bit and prefer this method but that 100% just my personal preference. Lots of way to get it done make it interesting 👍
I like paste wax, I have a piece of mild steel that matches my tang size, and do the glue up on that. Wait for it to harden hit it with a torch and it releases nice and easy👌
That is an awesome idea! I’ve gotten that feedback a ton and that’s why I love making TH-cam videos. I learn just as much or more than I share. Thank you 🙏👍
_Wa_ literally means 'harmony' and is shorthand for 'Japan' or 'Japanese style'. 'Handle' in Japanese is either _e_ or _tsuka_ and this is *not* remotely how handles are attached with traditional Japanese knives. Just saying.
it's not a big deal. it isn't. unless you count the $$ you shit down the drain. I've shit a lot of wood down...cooper and brass. I didn't mind..I was learning.
The audio of this video out of context is just wrong. A lot of goop, sticky sounds, grunting and talking of the tip.... felt like I should have been wearing headphones for this because the girlfriend gave me some odd looks. But... uh... great advice still so there's that.
FIRST
Copied from part two...
That was such fun to watch, all the simple but effective ideas that you use to make the job easier (not that it is easy) are great to see. It was a real breath of fresh air the way you shoot your videos, very calm and to the point without being over technical, like I said before, fun to watch.
I didn't realise there was two parts when I started to watch but I am glad there was, could have watched this all night in truth. I am going to copy/paste this to part one.
Thank you for such a great lesson, got a glue up on a Wa handle to do tomorrow, no shaping just the epoxy part but this video makes me feel more confident.
You can just wax the tang of the knife, when epoxy cures you can really easily pop handle off
Great tip, also works for doing bedded tangs on normal hidden tang builds. If the epoxy does stick after you wax it you can always hit it with a tiny bit of heat to melt the wax and it comes right out. Saves from having to melt it back in when you finish it as well.
That is some serious awesome tip thank you very much.
You can also try silicon tape - but there's something I've always wondered about the wax/vaseline trick; who do you remove the wax before you do the final glue up?
@@Tr33fiddy you just clean the tang. Think about it - since it pops out easily there should be no wax stuck to glue inside handle - its just on a tang
when you go to glue it up again there will be a layer of wax?
Thanks alot for explaining the process. How long is the wa handle and also tang
As mentioned you can wax the tang, regular furniture paste wax works great for this, Vaseline is yet another option . A second technique for bedding the tang is to wrap it with teflon plumbing tape it is ultra thin and the epoxy will not stick to it at all. Also try using the paste wax during your final glue up, fit your blade and apply the wax on the ricaso where you don't want epoxy and on the face of your front wood block. Once dry any epoxy on the waxed parts will pop right off, no fuss no muss.
I have used the teflon tape trick and it works very effectively.
You can easily avoid hydraulic lock by just drilling a tiny hole in the end of your dowel that goes through to where the dowel is cut. That way, the glue can escape through that hole and not lock up on you.
Great work on this video and several new tips and tricks I haven't seen before. Also thanks for pointing us to Noah - He's making some excellent knives!
Thank you! 👍
Great trick with the clamps! Kyle royer showed a tip for removing the blade from the handle easier. He coated anything he didn't want sticking with Vaseline. May try that out!
Interesting way of making handles. Thanks for sharing your process.
Excellent tip. I'm just learning to make this style of handle for my chefies. I've been following Noah for a while now, but I haven't tried the WA version yet. Thanks for sharing, Jeremy
Great trick with the dowel! Definitely going to use that. When you’re doing the “rough” glue up to hold the handle together but still want to remove the knife, try smearing finishing paste wax or beeswax onto the tang before the glue up. The wax releases nicely from the epoxy, meaning you could leave it in a bit longer and let the resin harden a bit more around the tang - so you don’t have to burn it back in and risk the temper.
Thanks! Yeah I’ve been experimenting with that wax method and two days ago I got it perfect. Left the knife in for hours, blade came out fine and no burning the tang. Saves some time for sure! 👍
What about the final glue up, there will be some wax left on the inside of the handle, wont that effect the bond?
Very interesting video and comments. I get a chuckle when I think what this knife will be used for. How strong does the glue have to be. It would take one tough potato to pull that handle off !!! I look forward to part two. Thanks Jeremy.
What did you use to clean up the epoxy on the metal tang? At 18:42
9:10 I closed my eyes! Over all, nice one sir! Thank you!
I seen guys put a light coat of Vaseline or beeswax around the Tang and it usually slides out a little easier, never personally did this this way but, in theory it makes sense. Definitely going to try the way you explained soon! Thanks a lot keep up the awesome videos
Brilliant 👍🏻
Thank you! 👍
I love this idea! Might I recommend doing your initial glue and clamp on a separate, longer, 1/2 dowel or tubing (to avoid the hydraulic lock) and then inserting the tang and slotted dowel on final glue in after shaping. That is what I may try myself. Thank you much for sharing!
...if your tang isn’t bigger than the hole, that is.
Very nice hack on the clamps. 😁
Hey Jeremy great video! I can't wait to see the rest! It's a really nice way to do the Handel's so thank you for sharing! When I use the dowels for my knife I usually cut at small sliver of wood from the bottom of the dowel right on the slot I cut to fit the tang that way the epoxy in the handle won't make the pneumatic lock and you still have the dowel to reference. Hope this is understandable 😂 anyway thanks for all the great tips! I've learned so much from you!
I've said it before and I'll say it again. I love your video's and the detail you go to. As an knifemaker learning the ropes, it's appreciated! You should consider some training vids on Patreon or something Jeremy - food for thought!
Thank you very much! I do have training videos on Patreon and it’s actually working out better than I thought it would. 👍
What do you finish your handles with? Linseed oil?
Love the technique you use for the handle parts
Thank you
Quick tip: you can put vasaline on the tang to keep the epoxy from sticking.
I always worry about the epoxy being contaminated by the vasaline. My thoughts are if this works just fine without it, there is zero risk of contamination. Everyone is telling me to use the vasaline. I prefer this way.
Hahahah, all the hate on the Devcon.....
@SuperGoldnut epoxy is epoxy - relax expert.
You could put a groove on the outside of the dowel so the epoxy can slide by.
Good looking knife and handle. Along with waxing the tang, I would use 24 hour epoxy instead of the 5 min. It supposedly makes a much better bond than the 5 min epoxy.
I'm using 5min epoxy and after one hour you can work on it... But it is much better to wait at least 12 hours before working on it. It tends to be smearing after only one hour.
Where do I buy that knife I fell in love with it kiritsuke knife like cleaver
Can I ask please. The white material on the handle I think you referred to as "D 10" . What is it.? And the black? I can't use plastic because epoxy won't stick to it
It’s G-10 👍 Almost like fibre glass/resin type of material.
I use an aluminum tube with a 1/2” inside diameter to stack the handle pieces and make sure they are straight. Then I use a 1/2” dowel to fit inside the aluminum tube. It’s great because I can use leather as a spacer without it sliding out when I glue it.
Have you tried a release agent rather than melting out the epoxy? Seems I recall someone using wax as a release agent when bedding a tang but I don't recall who it was. This would be similar to bedding an action on a rifle. Coat the action with a release agent and then smear the bedding compound into the stock and bed the action, if you used enough release agent the action will pop right out of the action when the bedding compound is dry.
Great video Jeremy! Heating the tang and forcing it through the epoxy sounds very convenient. But, does the epoxy re harden after being dissolved?
A venting grove in the back end of the dowel, similar to what is done when gluing dowel pegs would vent the pressure and avoid the hydraulic lock .
James Moore like a fluted dowel
I'm subscribed.....lol......but the same thing can be accomplished with a caulk gun with no modification. I've put a little piece of wood at the end for smaller blades. Just get one , if you don't have one already. Look at it and think....I JUST HAD A DUHHHH MOMENT....LOL. It's very Simple and very strong...especially if you use one or two pins in the tang.
Put a small groove on the side of the dowel rod that way when you push it down the glue can come up through the groove so you don't get that little hydraulic effect
Loving that modified clamp hack, totally gonna use it.
Thank's Pimp!
Who are you calling pimp?
Another option is wrapping the tang with Teflon tape. Peels right out.
You should make the blade have an S bevel I think Alec steel done it on his chef knife he did, it’s so when you chop food it doesn’t get stuck to the blade :)
You know what you should do.......
Simple Little Life I would but unfortunately don’t have a belt grinder atm, would you know of a way to do it without one?
Paste wax or Vasa line on the tang will keep it from sticking when bedding the tang.
I wondered the same, but how do you make sure none of it is left before your final glue, which would otherwise make it extremely weak? I can't decide whether i'd want to put any acetone in there, and be certain it removed everything... I also don't love the idea of making that epoxy super weak by heating it. If there were a pin that would be fine, but the point of the dowel method is to keep things simple.
How would you do this if the handle was one piece of wood?
This video is 3 years old so this may have come up already but... wa 和 means Japan/Japanese. For example, washoku 和食 means Japanese food. Tsuka 柄 means handle. :)
Can’t you use paste wax on the initial glue up? I’d be scared I would let it dry too long 😂
You can also use a caulking gun
That’s a great idea! 👍
So will there be a pin drilled in once the blade is reinserted? It seems like the tiny bit of epoxy you would use to reglue the blade at the very end wouldn't offer much strength
There is need for a pin. The amount of epoxy used at the end is ample for a secure hold. I’ve tested it. Only with intentional and destructive force would you get a handle off. Works slick as a whistle 👍
Never pull out too early!!!!
Vasoline your tang. Kyle Royer trick that works great.
That’s what she said!
Can anyone please tell me what is the best way to paint a wa handle?
Is he related to Yvon Vachon who made all of those amazing miniature knives?
For the final glue up first cut a piece of wood to slot over the end of the blade to square it up for the clamps.
👍👍👍
🙏👍
I have those clamps as well. Pain in the posterior!
👍
Vaseline the tang and the epoxy wont set to the tang. Kyle royer trick i learned
What you doing in these parts stranger?? Hahaha, I saw Kyle doing that & I've seen guys like Alec Steele using polishing wax... Take it easy Heath...
Yeah that works too. I’ve tried it a bit and prefer this method but that 100% just my personal preference. Lots of way to get it done make it interesting 👍
wd-40 works too
I like paste wax, I have a piece of mild steel that matches my tang size, and do the glue up on that. Wait for it to harden hit it with a torch and it releases nice and easy👌
Why dont you just hit the sides of your dowel with a file a few times to give the epoxy a channel to flow out of the bottom of the handle?
That is an awesome idea! I’ve gotten that feedback a ton and that’s why I love making TH-cam videos. I learn just as much or more than I share. Thank you 🙏👍
Why not just apply a thin layer of paste wax on the tang so that you don’t need to worry about how long you can leave the blade in the handle for?
That’s one way to do it. Seems the way everyone does it based how how many times that’s been commented. Sometimes it’s nice to show another option.
Worst case scenario, if the glue sets up too much to get the blade back out, you can still shape the handle on the blade anyway...
Put vaseline on the tang ..will stop sticking
Прикольно конечно но смысл какой? Сэкономить 10грамм епоксидки?
_Wa_ literally means 'harmony' and is shorthand for 'Japan' or 'Japanese style'. 'Handle' in Japanese is either _e_ or _tsuka_ and this is *not* remotely how handles are attached with traditional Japanese knives. Just saying.
Ya think? Thanks tips.....
@@Simplelittlelife You're welcome. The result of this non-traditional process looks stunning, though. ;)
Why not just use a pencil line
For what?
You looks like Dana white...
it's not a big deal. it isn't. unless you count the $$ you shit down the drain. I've shit a lot of wood down...cooper and brass. I didn't mind..I was learning.
That’s right. Nothing in life is free.
The audio of this video out of context is just wrong. A lot of goop, sticky sounds, grunting and talking of the tip.... felt like I should have been wearing headphones for this because the girlfriend gave me some odd looks.
But... uh... great advice still so there's that.
👍