Dragging the brake means the tail light is on constantly which then means other drivers won't know when you are actually stopping. They will be late braking and more likely to hit you.
Warming up the engine before stressing it spreads the heat to the parts that aren't directly exposed to the combustion process. Metal expands with heat so sudden heat in one region induces warping in the fundamental parts of the engine. A warmed up engine has distributed the heat so that it is a relatively constant temperature and the difference in heat between the coldest and hottest parts is far less extreme. If you have unexplained oil leaks, blown head gaskets and worse you now know why. Be grateful if you live a few kilometres (miles) from a freeway because you get an automatic warm up before hitting cruising speed. Spraying the side of your tyre with chain lube - as shown in the video - is a cool way to guarantee exciting riding.
I would like to add using a pressure washer to the list as well. Sure, it's quick and easy to give your bike a onceover to make it shine. But, unlike a car, there are a lot of sensitive components that aren't that well protected. It's easy to push water into electrical connections, pivot points and bearings. A pal had his brake pedal seize up as a result of pushing all the grease out of the pivot when cleaning his bike before winter storage and corrosion built up. Stainless and aluminium is a lethal combination without an isolator like grease or locktite between them. First run in the spring, he locked up his rear wheel and bit the dirt since the brake didn't let go even though he got off the pedal. Clearly fucked up not testing the brake before riding too though.
Video : Cold Start manage, driver technique, parking the bike gently, good treat to the vehicle Indonesian Mom 110cc/125cc scooters *changing oil by a year, reckless driving, park at outwide open space on rain storm - heatwave, rust and broke parts* Goes, vroom vroom and stays for decade
Throttle input isn't nearly as important as how your loading the engine. Lugging it while cold isn't any better. Releasing the clutch slowly, and allowing the engine to stay lightly loaded until its warm. While keeping the rpms down for a minute or two. Is all that's nessessary. Idling a motorcycle while it's on the kickstand, is not only dangerous. But can actually cause localized overheating of components and fluids. The best way to warm up the bike, is to begin riding it after maybe 30-45seconds of idling. Anything more is simply a waste of time and fuel. Keep the R's down, and whatever you do. Don't short shift it, and lug the engine. It's worse than just letting it wind at a reasonable rpm. Peace!
Chain maintenance is my weak spot. Sad to say I let the thing get loose enough it was smacking and taking little chunks of my rear tire with it. Certainly less than ideal circumstances lol. New sprockets, chain and tires coming this spring. Gonna throw a lectron on it as well. 6 months into my motorcycle journey and it’s still a constant learning process. DRZ life is the best life though.
Dragging the rear also activates the brake light reducing the ability of others riders/drivers to figure out which bonehead move you're going to pull next.
On track tires, yes warm them up. On street tires, they are already as warm as they are gonna get. u gain very little traction from “warming up ur tires”. And swerving back and forth dont do it either.
@@seancorrigan3531 Gas stations like BP don't help. Gasoline pumps are not supposed to be green! I've never done it, but fatigue, stress, and being in a hurry can lead to a stupid mistake. Unless you've never made a stupid mistake in your entire life, don't make cynical comments like that.
We need a government department: Motorcycle Protective Services. People should temporarily lose custody of their bike until they can prove they can be good parents.
Pls make a video about the Best beginner motorcycles for bad city roads.Roads here in România are bad,there is an unexpected hole waiting after the corner and i think it could be fatal
A scooter is best for that. Scooters outsell big motorcycles by 20 to 1 in the Philippines because of the traffic congestion and maneuvering ability to avoid holes and pedestrians
3:21 A "modern" (mid 00s) Honda CG125 on this channel? No way!! This was the bike I learned on, just a different colour lmao And yes, it was left out. Mine has been an outdoor bike for 20 years lmao
Whenever riding my trusty vtr 250 honda I ride it in the lower rpm’s for the first 20 minutes . Oil and filter change every 6 months Chain every 400-500km lube and check . Not confident enough to do valves :?
Is there anything we can do to prep the bike for a heat wave? When storing a covered bike, the cover can act as an air fryer. I changed the black cover to a silver/gray one and that significantly helps. But I'm concerned with all the leather, rubbers, and plastics.
Bought my bike from new 2 years ago, have 4000 miles on it and haven’t done an oil change yet. Don’t plan on it either. Only keeping the bike for another 3 years
I guess, from the perspective of a short term owner, that's a way for them to "save money". However, everything I've learned about mechanics (from lawnmowers to farm tractors) has taught me to do a couple of EARLY (100km & 1,000 km) services on a NEW engine, then (in the case of most passenger cars) change oil at 1/2 the manufacturers recommendation (twice as often). I say that having "neglected" my 2006 Holden VZ which is now facing some VERY expensive engine repairs - which could have been avoided if I'd simply changed the oil more often.
Not using your clutch when you shift whether you rev matching or not will do damage to your transmission in the long run. I've seen the damage from long-term use of no clutch. Tell me any manufacturer that tells you how to shift your bike like that?
got 60k miles on my cb1000r 2011, always left outside, just did valve check and changed cam chain/tens 10k miles ago, never had any problem, but i live in uk and there is no sun anyway, rain does nothing to bikes with little to no electronics and i use it daily
@Banana-us2ss I live in New Jersey . I'm retired I've been to Canada and down to Tennessee rode the entire skyline drive Blue Ridge Parkway to Cherokee North Carolina. Tail of the dragon and other great rides. I had the valves done at 55k miles. I have a garage so it's well kept. But motorcycles are built to last with some care. I'm riding it across the country next season Bucket list ride God willing.
@Rubenthecowboy not one problem. I don't want to sound like a bullshiter. I run motul synthetic routine maintenence. I keep it in the garage. I'm retired I keep it clean and I don't beat it. I ride it and have a good time trust me but I don't beat it.did the valves at 60 k they were still spot on. It's never broken down . I average about 7 k a year . I love this bike. How couldn't I it owes me nothing. Just replaced the suspension last season . Ohlims Holly shit that's another topic lol. Good luck you have a great bike there.
For my Ducati Monster, it's recommended to let the engine oil heat up to over 45 celsius degrees before reving above 4,5k rpm. But usually I just let the engine run for 1-2mins when I put gloves on etc. then ride with low rpm for the first couple hundred meters before reaching the 45c degrees.
You’ll be able to hear a difference in the motor running when it’s up to temp it will smooth out. You can watch your tac also and when the revs come down and level out me evenly your good to go. My r1 temp reads 165 when those things happen. That how I know my bikes ready
I wait till mine reads about 100 on oil temp. The other day it was reading about 40 before i started it. Took no more than like 5 min for it to get to 100+. Like others have said though, you can hear a difference in the idle when its warmed up
Big ass Fan for years But I live in El Salvador believe me need any of those bikes down here bro, Keep up the good work and that yellow is Cosmic, need to update from my cbr 2006 and my r1 2006 LOL
Science nerd FYI: the sun is nowhere near the most powerful force in the universe, or even in the galaxy. Sagittarius A* (Sgr A*), the supermassive black hole at the center of the Milky Way galaxy, has a mass of about 4.297 million times the mass of the sun. So, definitely don't leave your bike uncovered near the center of the galaxy.
hey yam, i’ve been watching all ur vids and i got a question about the give away bike?? would yall ship to hawaii? cus it’s quite expensive and a lot of hassle so even if i did win would the hassle be worth it getting to me ?
Going 3000 miles on a modern synthetic oil is pointless. It just wastes your money. The owner’s manual on my 21 cbr1000rr is 8k miles. I usually change it around the 6,000 mile mark, but even that is slightly excessive. Modern oils are way better lubricants than conventional is.
@ if 100,000 miles is a mark I aim for with a motorcycle that’s 34 oil changes. You’ll do about 17 over that same time. If a oil change cost 150$ then what’s that like 2,600$ over the life of the bike. Which could be 20 years. It is a waste but it comes down to 10$ a month extra for the freshest oil all the time :)
@ you don’t get the freshest oil all the time, though. There’s no benefit to it, at all. It just makes you feel good, because you don’t know anything about oil.
@@Tampa_tom again, what you’re saying doesn’t make sense. Your opinion is based on the premise that newer oil is better oil, and that’s just not the case. Oil doesn’t go bad. Oil doesn’t even degrade in your engine, under most circumstances. It just gets dirty cleaning up carbon deposits. Its job is to keep things from touching other things, and to hold foreign material harmlessly in suspension. Once that suspension is full, you change it. The mileage or time it’s been in there really don’t matter. If the oil isn’t dirty, it doesn’t need to be changed.
The gear shifting is real...if the oil is not warm...and when i shift the gear the whole bike will jerk a second...like the whole bike and the gear will make a TUK noise...but if you warm the oil up like make it just run for 5 minutes to 10 without revving then the bike will run so smooth...am from mountains i live in cold by afternoon my bike will be smooth...yeah takes half a day for me...not joking
Warm it up by riding, that is better for the engine. If you let it idle it will take more time to warm up than riding. This means the bike will stay for a longer time running in cold state and therefor wear more. Also you waste gas that could be used for riding and depending on your bike and exhaust your neighbours will hate you 😂
@@hendrikg3616also, at low rpm’s, oil flow is lower, so it tends to pool more, causing deposits in the engine. Idling for long periods of time also cause more carbon buildup inside the intake, head, and cylinders. You do want to warm it up a few minutes, but letting it sit the amount of time it takes for the oil to heat up, whose operating temp is usually around 160°F+, would take forever.
@@thagingerninjer5391 You're right, you said it in the long form :) My Honda Shadow ACE gets the choke for like 5 seconds, one or two blips of throttle and then I put it in gear and ride away. In the winter the choke stays on for the first 100 meters and that works the best for me. My older bikes like my CB550 Four or CX500C on the other hand need one or two minutes of choke, idling and some revs before the want to go.
@ I’ve got an ‘81 185s, and it starts great until you get into the thirties, and then it takes forever to get it warm enough to run. It doesn’t help that it only has 80 pounds of compression. 😂
Pretty sure that loading a low rpm cold engine is pretty bad. Might be correct for mid rpm, but general rule should be "no full throttle on cold engine anyways"
Not a single one of those bikes was tied down properly, and your advice is completely wrong! You tie down off the brakes, no pressure on the suspension, no risk of blown seals.
Guess I need to stop my habit of driving into concrete walls.
That's something my dad did when he was young way before I was born
That would be advisable yes
Don’t let big concrete hold u down bro, teach the controversy, eat the concrete
@@notcharlie8763 this guy gets it 🫡
You really only need to do it once to fully embrace the experience. Don't be a slave to the habit. Just say no.
My wife also needs to be warmed up before experiencing heavy loads.
@@ziqaustin true
All the women I know are like icebergs.
I've never had a problem with her 😛
We know.
Damn
Lubricate before heavy loads…got it 👍
Dragging the brake means the tail light is on constantly which then means other drivers won't know when you are actually stopping. They will be late braking and more likely to hit you.
„For the most part motorcycles are pretty well built machines“
KTM left the chat
They not only left the chat, they left the entire motorcycle industry
"Unless you ride a KTM" shots fired 🤭
Practicing wheelies and not using your rear brake.
Warming up the engine before stressing it spreads the heat to the parts that aren't directly exposed to the combustion process. Metal expands with heat so sudden heat in one region induces warping in the fundamental parts of the engine. A warmed up engine has distributed the heat so that it is a relatively constant temperature and the difference in heat between the coldest and hottest parts is far less extreme. If you have unexplained oil leaks, blown head gaskets and worse you now know why. Be grateful if you live a few kilometres (miles) from a freeway because you get an automatic warm up before hitting cruising speed.
Spraying the side of your tyre with chain lube - as shown in the video - is a cool way to guarantee exciting riding.
I would like to add using a pressure washer to the list as well. Sure, it's quick and easy to give your bike a onceover to make it shine. But, unlike a car, there are a lot of sensitive components that aren't that well protected. It's easy to push water into electrical connections, pivot points and bearings. A pal had his brake pedal seize up as a result of pushing all the grease out of the pivot when cleaning his bike before winter storage and corrosion built up. Stainless and aluminium is a lethal combination without an isolator like grease or locktite between them. First run in the spring, he locked up his rear wheel and bit the dirt since the brake didn't let go even though he got off the pedal. Clearly fucked up not testing the brake before riding too though.
Video : Cold Start manage, driver technique, parking the bike gently, good treat to the vehicle
Indonesian Mom 110cc/125cc scooters
*changing oil by a year, reckless driving, park at outwide open space on rain storm - heatwave, rust and broke parts*
Goes, vroom vroom and stays for decade
Throttle input isn't nearly as important as how your loading the engine. Lugging it while cold isn't any better. Releasing the clutch slowly, and allowing the engine to stay lightly loaded until its warm. While keeping the rpms down for a minute or two. Is all that's nessessary.
Idling a motorcycle while it's on the kickstand, is not only dangerous. But can actually cause localized overheating of components and fluids. The best way to warm up the bike, is to begin riding it after maybe 30-45seconds of idling.
Anything more is simply a waste of time and fuel. Keep the R's down, and whatever you do. Don't short shift it, and lug the engine. It's worse than just letting it wind at a reasonable rpm.
Peace!
Chain maintenance is my weak spot. Sad to say I let the thing get loose enough it was smacking and taking little chunks of my rear tire with it. Certainly less than ideal circumstances lol. New sprockets, chain and tires coming this spring. Gonna throw a lectron on it as well. 6 months into my motorcycle journey and it’s still a constant learning process. DRZ life is the best life though.
Dragging the rear also activates the brake light reducing the ability of others riders/drivers to figure out which bonehead move you're going to pull next.
On track tires, yes warm them up. On street tires, they are already as warm as they are gonna get. u gain very little traction from “warming up ur tires”. And swerving back and forth dont do it either.
Don't put diesel into your gas tank, unless, you have a diesel engine. I was surprised to see just how thin the engine case is on motorcycles.....
Damm dude! I'm sorry to hear that.
That's just stupid.
@@seancorrigan3531 Gas stations like BP don't help. Gasoline pumps are not supposed to be green!
I've never done it, but fatigue, stress, and being in a hurry can lead to a stupid mistake. Unless you've never made a stupid mistake in your entire life, don't make cynical comments like that.
@@Stacy_Smith nah. Don't care what colour the pump is. Putting diesel in a bike is a dummy move
My friend filled his r1 up with diesel. Made it a block. Thanks jettas for the small nossal
Jokes on you Yam, my bike is in my living room watching TV with me!
We need a government department:
Motorcycle Protective Services.
People should temporarily lose custody of their bike until they can prove they can be good parents.
Have you used a modern gas can?
The last thing we need is more government intervention in our lives...
@mytmousemalibu It was a joke, dude.
It's a parody of CHILD Protective Services.
I was riding behind someone who had a bike tied down on a trailer. They went over the train tracks and it fell over. Was very sad to see
Pls make a video about the Best beginner motorcycles for bad city roads.Roads here in România are bad,there is an unexpected hole waiting after the corner and i think it could be fatal
So true
R3
A scooter is best for that. Scooters outsell big motorcycles by 20 to 1 in the Philippines because of the traffic congestion and maneuvering ability to avoid holes and pedestrians
Look no further than Royal Enfield Scram 411....or wait for the upgraded and slightly more powerful 440 version
Get you a good small displacement dual sport
Love the shots of the Interceptor 500, my first bike back in 1986👍
3:21 A "modern" (mid 00s) Honda CG125 on this channel? No way!! This was the bike I learned on, just a different colour lmao
And yes, it was left out. Mine has been an outdoor bike for 20 years lmao
The Ninja at 8:13 is beautiful!
What year/model?
Whenever riding my trusty vtr 250 honda I ride it in the lower rpm’s for the first 20 minutes .
Oil and filter change every 6 months
Chain every 400-500km lube and check .
Not confident enough to do valves :?
Is there anything we can do to prep the bike for a heat wave? When storing a covered bike, the cover can act as an air fryer. I changed the black cover to a silver/gray one and that significantly helps. But I'm concerned with all the leather, rubbers, and plastics.
Bought my bike from new 2 years ago, have 4000 miles on it and haven’t done an oil change yet. Don’t plan on it either. Only keeping the bike for another 3 years
I guess, from the perspective of a short term owner, that's a way for them to "save money".
However, everything I've learned about mechanics (from lawnmowers to farm tractors) has taught me to do a couple of EARLY (100km & 1,000 km) services on a NEW engine, then (in the case of most passenger cars) change oil at 1/2 the manufacturers recommendation (twice as often). I say that having "neglected" my 2006 Holden VZ which is now facing some VERY expensive engine repairs - which could have been avoided if I'd simply changed the oil more often.
@@OhSoddit I promise to make sure the new owner knows I haven’t done an oil change an as it is an EV I will encourage them not to try.
Not using your clutch when you shift whether you rev matching or not will do damage to your transmission in the long run. I've seen the damage from long-term use of no clutch. Tell me any manufacturer that tells you how to shift your bike like that?
Good video 103k on my 2009 FZ1.
got 60k miles on my cb1000r 2011, always left outside, just did valve check and changed cam chain/tens 10k miles ago, never had any problem, but i live in uk and there is no sun anyway, rain does nothing to bikes with little to no electronics and i use it daily
@Banana-us2ss I live in New Jersey . I'm retired I've been to Canada and down to Tennessee rode the entire skyline drive Blue Ridge Parkway to Cherokee North Carolina. Tail of the dragon and other great rides. I had the valves done at 55k miles. I have a garage so it's well kept. But motorcycles are built to last with some care. I'm riding it across the country next season Bucket list ride God willing.
Nice I got 12k on my 2012, what kind of maintenance? Any issues yours encountered?
@Rubenthecowboy not one problem. I don't want to sound like a bullshiter. I run motul synthetic routine maintenence. I keep it in the garage. I'm retired I keep it clean and I don't beat it. I ride it and have a good time trust me but I don't beat it.did the valves at 60 k they were still spot on. It's never broken down . I average about 7 k a year . I love this bike. How couldn't I it owes me nothing. Just replaced the suspension last season . Ohlims Holly shit that's another topic lol. Good luck you have a great bike there.
Owned one, and fz1 is one of the best motorcycles ever made regarding reliability, price, performance, and aesthetics imo.
How long should I warm up the bike before going for a ride? noob question here :)
Mostly 5 min is enough for any bike. Just put the bike on neutral switch it on and leave it.
For my Ducati Monster, it's recommended to let the engine oil heat up to over 45 celsius degrees before reving above 4,5k rpm. But usually I just let the engine run for 1-2mins when I put gloves on etc. then ride with low rpm for the first couple hundred meters before reaching the 45c degrees.
You’ll be able to hear a difference in the motor running when it’s up to temp it will smooth out. You can watch your tac also and when the revs come down and level out me evenly your good to go. My r1 temp reads 165 when those things happen. That how I know my bikes ready
I wait for 150 - my fan comes on at 220 to put it in perspective, but I also cruise through the neighborhood to warm up tires and brakes.
I wait till mine reads about 100 on oil temp. The other day it was reading about 40 before i started it. Took no more than like 5 min for it to get to 100+. Like others have said though, you can hear a difference in the idle when its warmed up
Good points.
Big ass Fan for years But I live in El Salvador believe me need any of those bikes down here bro, Keep up the good work and that yellow is Cosmic, need to update from my cbr 2006 and my r1 2006 LOL
The ktm hate when Harley Davidson exists is wild
Wouldn’t be caught dead on a ktm.
Fr fr
Crashing won't kill it slowly.
Noob at 0:45, what? Is this some kind of sexy moto innuendo?
Young people who have always only known fuel injetion are impatient about warm up time.
There's a bike sitting in the parking lot next to my work. Been there the whole time . 😅. Covered with snow . 😂. Why ? Why dude
Science nerd FYI: the sun is nowhere near the most powerful force in the universe, or even in the galaxy. Sagittarius A* (Sgr A*), the supermassive black hole at the center of the Milky Way galaxy, has a mass of about 4.297 million times the mass of the sun.
So, definitely don't leave your bike uncovered near the center of the galaxy.
Does a gazelle need warm up once it sees a lion....or boom it goes running at full speed from zero.
hey yam, i’ve been watching all ur vids and i got a question about the give away bike?? would yall ship to hawaii? cus it’s quite expensive and a lot of hassle so even if i did win would the hassle be worth it getting to me ?
Great info, makes me wish that I wasnt broke. Somebody pay him o my behalf.
Idk if id go 5,000 miles on the same oil in my r1.
I do it every 3,000
Going 3000 miles on a modern synthetic oil is pointless. It just wastes your money. The owner’s manual on my 21 cbr1000rr is 8k miles. I usually change it around the 6,000 mile mark, but even that is slightly excessive. Modern oils are way better lubricants than conventional is.
@ if 100,000 miles is a mark I aim for with a motorcycle that’s 34 oil changes. You’ll do about 17 over that same time.
If a oil change cost 150$ then what’s that like 2,600$ over the life of the bike. Which could be 20 years. It is a waste but it comes down to 10$ a month extra for the freshest oil all the time :)
@ I’m more willing to go 5k miles in my car that isn’t a high performance vehicle and doesn’t get rev’d out ever
@ you don’t get the freshest oil all the time, though. There’s no benefit to it, at all. It just makes you feel good, because you don’t know anything about oil.
@@Tampa_tom again, what you’re saying doesn’t make sense. Your opinion is based on the premise that newer oil is better oil, and that’s just not the case. Oil doesn’t go bad. Oil doesn’t even degrade in your engine, under most circumstances. It just gets dirty cleaning up carbon deposits. Its job is to keep things from touching other things, and to hold foreign material harmlessly in suspension. Once that suspension is full, you change it. The mileage or time it’s been in there really don’t matter. If the oil isn’t dirty, it doesn’t need to be changed.
YAMIE NOOB ...WHAT HAPPENED TO THE NEW HONDA CBR 1000RRR YOU TESTESTED ? ...IT BLEW UP BUT YOU NEVER MENTION IT > FEAR OF HONDA FANBOYS I TAKE IT
Direct sunlight killed my lcd display
The sun destroys at least 1 cover a year.
The gear shifting is real...if the oil is not warm...and when i shift the gear the whole bike will jerk a second...like the whole bike and the gear will make a TUK noise...but if you warm the oil up like make it just run for 5 minutes to 10 without revving then the bike will run so smooth...am from mountains i live in cold by afternoon my bike will be smooth...yeah takes half a day for me...not joking
Your oil may be too thick, if it’s taking that long to warm things up.
Do you ride a Ducati?
You are going to be responsible for me trading in my 8s for and 8r lol
I always give my bike 3 minutes and then take it easy for the next minute.
i always let mine idle until it warms up the oil. I wait till the oil is at least 100 degrees before i take off.
Warm it up by riding, that is better for the engine.
If you let it idle it will take more time to warm up than riding. This means the bike will stay for a longer time running in cold state and therefor wear more. Also you waste gas that could be used for riding and depending on your bike and exhaust your neighbours will hate you 😂
@@hendrikg3616also, at low rpm’s, oil flow is lower, so it tends to pool more, causing deposits in the engine. Idling for long periods of time also cause more carbon buildup inside the intake, head, and cylinders. You do want to warm it up a few minutes, but letting it sit the amount of time it takes for the oil to heat up, whose operating temp is usually around 160°F+, would take forever.
@@thagingerninjer5391 You're right, you said it in the long form :)
My Honda Shadow ACE gets the choke for like 5 seconds, one or two blips of throttle and then I put it in gear and ride away. In the winter the choke stays on for the first 100 meters and that works the best for me.
My older bikes like my CB550 Four or CX500C on the other hand need one or two minutes of choke, idling and some revs before the want to go.
@ I’ve got an ‘81 185s, and it starts great until you get into the thirties, and then it takes forever to get it warm enough to run. It doesn’t help that it only has 80 pounds of compression. 😂
100 degrees?! jesus man do modern bikes even reach 100 degrees by idling?
Aprilia and Ktm in the first minute 🥲🥲🥲
Yammie
Damn. I'm bad about covering my bike.
Me to... I use to cover it bu Wind decide to put it down 2 time ... I stop cover it
So, if I keep riding like a pensioner, my bike will last forever!
i baby my bikes
“Warp your rotor” you mean lateral runout?? lol you could never get them hot enough to warp 😂
Dumbest comment I've seen all year. Talk to any shop ever. Rotor warping is a thing
@ brake rotors start to warp at 1200 degrees Fahrenheit smart guy. I doubt anyone gets any rotor that hot.
Nammie yoob
So stoppies and wheelies bad?
Nice 👍
First comment 🎉 video was posted at 12:30 pm on Wednesday December 18th. For future me reasons.
He piston what!?
Fat chix?! Can they have adverse effects on your suspension?
Asking for someone else.
...probably a Harley rider.
I got a bad habit of buying Chinese parts
Yammie Noob has the most annoying voice I have heard, and is too opinionated.
Full throttle doesn’t hurt an engine when it’s cold. High rpm’s is what hurts your engine while it’s cold.
Pretty sure that loading a low rpm cold engine is pretty bad.
Might be correct for mid rpm, but general rule should be "no full throttle on cold engine anyways"
@ nah.
Not a single one of those bikes was tied down properly, and your advice is completely wrong! You tie down off the brakes, no pressure on the suspension, no risk of blown seals.