The type of form shown in this video is a male + female press. These are best for glued laminations, particularly those whose laminated edges will be on show, as they give uniform, consistent results. You can also use either just a female or male form, using clamps or straps to hold the lamination to the form. Personally, I would say this is best suited to steam bends for the most part. Vacuum is an excellent option for wider sheet veneers. How thick your strips or veneers for your lamination will need to be depends on a few things. In this video mine, at 4mm, were quite thick. As I was using a shallow, uniform radius, this was fine. If you want more acute radii. undulations and/or twists, it may be necessary to use much thinner veneers of 1.5 or 1mm for example. There's lots of opinions on glues. PVA's, PU's, powder resins like Cascamite or epoxies like I used are all fine. As mentioned in the video, PVA's (and PU's) have some elasticity which may be desirable. Cascamite and epoxies are a more rigid bond, indeed "phenol resorcinol formaldehyde" adhesives like cascamite, as well as epoxies, have been widely used in laminations for a long time in construction, boatbuilding and furniture making. On lighter coloured woods, I'd recommend epoxy as PU's and cascamite can be a bit showy. The latter do have excellent gap filling properties though which could be beneficial and, on darker woods, their slightly more showy glue line isn't an issue. Check your chosen glues pot and cure times, as well as suitability for laminations with distributors and manufacturers. Cheers.
Such a clever set up, love it! That staircase though.... Wow!!!! Incredible work. Could you maybe do a video showcasing some of your past work on the job? Proudest moments? 😁👍
Cheers Keith. Thank you. I honestly don't have much photos or video of work. Sure I can find some though. I'd be better off walking through the local towns vlogging what I've worked on as I pass it! Most the photos we took were of buildings bowels for inspectors/engineers😂 The job with the staircase I showed, I think between us we'd have a decent record as the owners insisted on it.👍
Thank you! As ever with these things, you break down into small steps ( excuse the pun) at the design stage. Makes the building pretty straight forward then.👍
I'll have a look through the archives and see what I've got and if I can make a story out of it mate. Will be mostly photos as they were mainly record keeping, not videography.🤷♂️
Thanks mate. Good question which I should have covered. It's a solid block because of its size (as in small). When they get bigger, solid gets too heavy so you'd have a sheet/form top and bottom, then noggins in between to give you the height. Mine are only need be 48mm high though so 3 solid sheets of 18mm is the easiest.👍
@@dougsaunders8109 With the cold lamination I show here, especially using the hard epoxy (or cascamite), spring back really isn't an issue. Tighter curves - a 90 say - some pre-bending helps (done with steam). Steam bending a solid timber is a different matter. First go seldom gets it right and formers may need to be adjusted for a tighter curve so it's close on release. That or form your pieces and let their shape direct the rest of the work. Cold lamination is best for accuracy and consistency in my experience but, it all depends on need - that and any number of other variables!
The type of form shown in this video is a male + female press. These are best for glued laminations, particularly those whose laminated edges will be on show, as they give uniform, consistent results.
You can also use either just a female or male form, using clamps or straps to hold the lamination to the form. Personally, I would say this is best suited to steam bends for the most part. Vacuum is an excellent option for wider sheet veneers.
How thick your strips or veneers for your lamination will need to be depends on a few things. In this video mine, at 4mm, were quite thick. As I was using a shallow, uniform radius, this was fine. If you want more acute radii. undulations and/or twists, it may be necessary to use much thinner veneers of 1.5 or 1mm for example.
There's lots of opinions on glues. PVA's, PU's, powder resins like Cascamite or epoxies like I used are all fine. As mentioned in the video, PVA's (and PU's) have some elasticity which may be desirable. Cascamite and epoxies are a more rigid bond, indeed "phenol resorcinol formaldehyde" adhesives like cascamite, as well as epoxies, have been widely used in laminations for a long time in construction, boatbuilding and furniture making. On lighter coloured woods, I'd recommend epoxy as PU's and cascamite can be a bit showy. The latter do have excellent gap filling properties though which could be beneficial and, on darker woods, their slightly more showy glue line isn't an issue.
Check your chosen glues pot and cure times, as well as suitability for laminations with distributors and manufacturers.
Cheers.
Great comment
Such a clever set up, love it! That staircase though.... Wow!!!! Incredible work. Could you maybe do a video showcasing some of your past work on the job? Proudest moments? 😁👍
Yeah, what Keith said👍
Cheers Keith. Thank you. I honestly don't have much photos or video of work. Sure I can find some though. I'd be better off walking through the local towns vlogging what I've worked on as I pass it! Most the photos we took were of buildings bowels for inspectors/engineers😂 The job with the staircase I showed, I think between us we'd have a decent record as the owners insisted on it.👍
@@sometimesiaskmyself 😁👍
that staircase look awesome mate👍 I wouldnt even know where to start.
Thank you! As ever with these things, you break down into small steps ( excuse the pun) at the design stage. Makes the building pretty straight forward then.👍
Thanks
Thank you very much James 🙏👍
YES! Please make a video on that staircase, it looks really amazing. 🙌🤙
I will see what I can gather together. It would be more a photo gallery than a video but I'm sure between us we have enough to story it.👍
Would be interested in seeing installed work!
I'll have a look through the archives and see what I've got and if I can make a story out of it mate. Will be mostly photos as they were mainly record keeping, not videography.🤷♂️
Awesome staircase 😍
Thanks very much😁
Top video
Most informative ❤
Thank you mate👍
Nice stairs
Cheers. I dug out a load of old photos of the job for a video if you'd like to see more. See here: th-cam.com/video/xUHBV4QuOl0/w-d-xo.html
Love the jig. Why laminate over a solid block ? - Staircase yes please
Thanks mate. Good question which I should have covered. It's a solid block because of its size (as in small). When they get bigger, solid gets too heavy so you'd have a sheet/form top and bottom, then noggins in between to give you the height. Mine are only need be 48mm high though so 3 solid sheets of 18mm is the easiest.👍
Yeah! Great video!
😁 Thanks Sam.
Yes! Would love to see how the amaZing staircase came together!
I see what I can dig up. Should have a few pics of the staircase coming together. Quite a lot for the whole renovation I think.👍
Very nice
Cheers Tom.
Nice result 👍🏻
Thanks Doug. This was only 1 of 4 I made for new chair designs, all with different radius. This methods pretty fool proof though.👍
@@BischBaschBosch I always fancied trying stream bending. Working out spring back always looks like a complete nightmare/work of art
@@dougsaunders8109 With the cold lamination I show here, especially using the hard epoxy (or cascamite), spring back really isn't an issue. Tighter curves - a 90 say - some pre-bending helps (done with steam). Steam bending a solid timber is a different matter. First go seldom gets it right and formers may need to be adjusted for a tighter curve so it's close on release. That or form your pieces and let their shape direct the rest of the work. Cold lamination is best for accuracy and consistency in my experience but, it all depends on need - that and any number of other variables!