how to build a wardrobe for a changing body
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2023
- Gain weight recently? Or maybe you've lost it? Or maybe you're bloated, or pregnant, or hormonal or even a PCOS girlie like me. Never fear, a wardrobe that fits your style and shape doesn't have to cost the earth! Here are some of the tips I've learned over the years to find clothes that fit me as my weight fluctuates so I can save my money, my style and my sanity. Add your own in the comments below!
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ALL THE LINKS YOU'RE LOOKING FOR:
Example of a trapeze top (free pattern) helensclosetpatterns.com/2021...
The history bounding skirt: • A Skirt that ALWAYS Fi...
Tudor wrap blouse: www.stitchwitchpatterns.com/p...
Collage gather dress : matchymatchysewingclub.com/pr...
Pattern hack: / cufs3amae3t
Sasha Starlight Palazzo Pants: www.etsy.com/uk/listing/13747...
AND her tie waist dungarees: www.etsy.com/uk/listing/15155...
After filming this video I ALSO found these super cool looking adjustable patterns:
thefoldline.com/product/ready...
thefoldline.com/product/ready...
thefoldline.com/product/ready...
www.namedclothing.com/collect...
www.namedclothing.com/product...
Sources re:waste : www.fashionrevolution.org/was... .
goodonyou.eco/waste-luxury-fa...
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The deep body neutrality here was so healing for me. I’ve also been struggling with shoulders on tops maybe my whole life-those seamed shoulders just need a very precise fit! So many good ideas here!
I love raglan sleeves! There is no pointy bit of the shoulder.
Hi, Leena! I am from Bangladesh, where the majority of the *traditional outfits* are sown by our regular tailors that we personally know. And when they make our clothes, we can always ask them to leave some extra fabric on the side, in case we gain weight. Then we can open up the seam ourselves to make the clothes bigger, or take it back to the same tailor (or any tailor for that matter) to open it up for us. The same theory applies to losing weight. We can either stitch down the clothes ourselves by following the original seam, or take them to any tailor to fix it for us. In this case as well, the extra fabric that's being taken in, remains on the clothes, in case we need to change it again. ❤
man i would take this over a billion fast fashion shops any day. 😍
I LOVE this idea! What an awesome practice.
That's such a good idea about the seams. When I was in India I absolutely loved buying those fabric packs that a tailor would expertly sew into a salwar kameez. I still have one pair that is 20 years old, it has washed and worn brilliantly and is still so comfortable. I've often wished the salwar kameez would spread to Western countries, it's one of the best most comfortable as well as flattering outfits there is.
you can do it here, too, but since labor is expensive, we don´t do it anymore. It´s much cheaper to buy new. So much cheaper. And nobody realises that local tailors disappear because they don´t earn enough to live.
I really appreciate the historical context! And shout out to the sari, the sarong, the chiton, the kikoi, the kitenge, the kanga, and all the other amazing zero-waste and adjustable clothing that brilliant people all over the world have worn for centuries!
Yeah! Would love to learn more about these from the adjustment and adaptable perspective!!
I LOVE this concept. It flies in the face of all the cultural dialogue about our body (and specifically its size) being tied to our identity. Not to be dramatic but it’s also radically inclusive way to approach body positive/neutral fashion advice-every single body will change in size and shape. Focusing on the change itself rather than ways to make certain subsets of lumps and bumps look “good” is a new conversation.
I just want to say, as someone with sight loss. I really really appreciate how you describe the clothing. Like saying about the criss cross straps or buttons on the elbows or whatever. It makes it much easier to feel what you're talking about. More of this please! We love accessible content!
As someone who struggles with an eating disorder this is so helpful and the first time I've seen anyone talk about this! Thank you! x
Honestly, you are doing the lord's work with this video! My boobs grow and shrink through the month and, cos I have IBS and social anxiety, if I eat around people I will 100% bloat from the stress so trying to find outfits that look nice for "eating out" but that I can still sit in if I eat something has been a challenge!
Thank you so much, I bloat too while being out and about (bonus aches when there's alcohol involved) and you literally the first person I've ever heard from with the same issue
Can confirm neither of you are alone in those struggles! It sucks!
IBS bloat in public is the worst, especially when it feels like its come out of nowhere! I literally made a skirt with no actual closure because of it - I just safety pin it to fit my waist and can adjust throughout the day
100% with you with the IBS/anxiety bloating thing!!
You guys are my people ! I have this trouble and not just going out but I’m up and down throughout the day! It’s so hard to find skirts and trousers I just buy them a bit baggy now and can use a nappy pin if I’m having a smaller tummy moment!
As a new mom with a 30 week old babe, this is exactly what I needed to see. My body seems to be changing every week - fluctuating up and down, sometimes hour to hour depending on my hormones and breastfeeding schedule.
Thank you for all the lovely videos you make on books, sustainability, DIY, etc.
Very very VERY old school European clothing (ie, Tudor/Stuart clothes) used to be made out of, essentially, pattern pieces that were laced together.This kind of "body" was worn over a smock -- linen underwear, looks very like a nightgown -- that would fill in the gaps and prevent you from sweating on the outer gown. You never washed to bodice or the skirt (which was of course held on by ties) but you could take the cheap and sturdy linen smock and boil the hell out of it to get it clean. Changing into "clean linen" every day was how you stayed fresh and un-stinky.
Some theatrical costuming companies still do this, which makes SO MUCH sense, because then a garment can be worn by actors of a range of sizes.
If you want to know more about this, search for "a pair of bodies".
PCOS, low income, chronic pain, disabled, probably autistic and adhd with the sensory issues that come with that.. between you and KathleenIllustrated you're both giving me hope that one day I can love my clothes again after a lifetime of struggle.
I’m AuADHD too, with joint issues and sensory issues. I love how fun and practical both of these girls make it! You might enjoy Beepworld too, she does a lot with restyling clothes she already has in her closet, and has a warm, fun personality.
Because of weight changes and all my sensitivities to humidity, cold, etc, I’ve thrifted a lot of clothing over time, so that I can feel comfortable in any season or temperature. I’ve started keeping a few bins set aside of the sizes I no longer fit, since my weight fluctuates and in a year or two I might be that size again, so it’s more affordable to hang onto them. My own weird version of sustainability!
Thanks for the recommendation!!
I love Kathleen too!
Thank you for including tips for every kind of weight fluctuation and not just belly & boobs! I gain weight most quickly around my hips which is why I tend to mostly wear high waisted skirts
High waisted skirts are the nicest 😉 if only one type must be worn, let them be high waisted
As a 29 week pregnant mom, I am ready for these tips! I really don't want to buy maternity clothes I won't use later.
I have a maternity sweater even though I am not a mom. I just liked that it's made like a bathrobe and the material is 60% cotton. Maternity clothes tend to be more adjustable than regulars, and they don't necessarily scream "I'm pregnant", so I think you can find something that you'll love for years and that can also be a tip for those who are tired of looking for clothes that will grow and shrink with them for other reasons :)
I figured the only thing I needed while pregnant were some trousers/jeans with that stretchy tube panel thing and some new bra. I bought nursing bra and wore them while pregnant, because they often are the most forgiving when it comes to sizing. I can then go back to my old bra once I don't nurse anymore. Literally didn't need anything else. I had big enough and good looking tops, dresses and coats throughout the pregnancy thanks to the loose silhouette/oversize trend 🙏 I also find nursing clothes unnecessary (except bra)! Just lift up your top and you're good to go. Or if you have wrap tops or dresses, they work perfect too.
Trapeze dresses are incredible during pregnancy
I did only buy a few more stretchy and flowy pants. They don't even necessarily have to be labeled 'maternaty'. I never used nursing bras, I just kept on using bralettes and sports bras. But I wasn't much of a bra person before nursing. I just need something to keep the nursing pad in place. But I do realize that very much depends on the boob size. 😊
Just a suggestion that nothing is a must when it comes to pregnancy and baby items. 😎
Hannah Louise Poston has a great video on this too that came out recently in case of interest!
Masc folks, some tips from someone who's been a XS to XXL:
Buying things labeled 'relaxed fit' are your friend. 'Classic fit' garments also tend to be forgiving. "Muscle/athletic fit" clothes tend to be cut much tighter/closer to the body.
Buying clothes with a soft drape-y fabric means that they'll be comfortable and not bunch up awkwardly whatever size you fluctuate to. Viscose and silk/satin blends are great for this (eco-viscose/silk or secondhand is best of course!)
Joggers! You can get chino joggers that have elasticized waists and cuffs so they adjust with you. They still look professional while being comfy.
If your waist fluctuates a lot more than around your hips, trying wearing your pants at your hips. I know it can be a comfort thing, so this won't work for everyone, but as someone with a large stomach I've found wearing my pants at my hips much easier. It's okay to not cover your belly with your pants. Free your belly!
Vintage jackets have way wider arm holes than modern jackets, especially 80's silhouettes. They're pretty easy to find secondhand.
Edit: button hole extenders! A lifesaver for jeans without a lot of stretch and sleeve cuffs. You can usually find them in haberdashery shops in the same area you'd find bra extenders.
Hope these help! Love the tips in this video, a lot of them apply to menswear too!
Thank you so much for this! As an afab non-binary person who mainly wears "menswear", I've been desperately trying to find better ways to have a wardrobe that stays with me through weight fluctuations, so this was super helpful!
nonbinary person here and yes! came here to ask/say the same thing! ty ty ty
I'm not religious but you are doing the lords work! thank you for these tips ❤
^ thank you for sharing this! was just coming to ask for tips :)
As someone with a really big butt I always buy a big pants size anyway. They often are a little loose around the belly unless I gained a lot of weigt but wether I am thinner or bigger my butt and hips hold up my pants and prevent them from falling down 😂 so I still prefer mid to slighly higher rise and wearing a belt even after gaining weight - on the flip side finding pants that are big enough at my butt and at the same time don't hang down in a "manly" way at the crotch region is a real challenge. Sometimmes I have to take in the crotch afterwards.
Leena, I just genuinely believe that you are changing the world with content like this. Your videos have so directly impacted my choices when it comes to fashion!
Just want to say, not only is this incredibly useful, but it’s SO refreshing and healthy that there is nothing you say that adds a negativity to gaining weight❤️🙌
Some sewing ways you can make your clothes larger:
Tight armholes can be widened with a rhombus in the armpit.
Buttons can be extended by giving them an elastic loop to button into, attached to the fabric where the origin buttonhole is (like a permanent version of the pants button hair tie hack).
Panties can be extended with a small strip of fabric (nobody's gonna know).
Sleeveless shirts with tight armholes can be given a little v under the arm.
Pant legs can be widened with a strip of fabric by the outer seam: make it look decorative. This way you can also convert tight legs to straight legs etc.
If a sleeve is gathered and long enough you can take off the rigid cuff and make your own channel end seam and pull an elastic through it. You could also do this taking a sleeve from full length to elbow length etc.
PS. I know this video was about adjustable clothing, not just larger, but I still wanted to share because I see so very little tips out there on the topic. And I'd say most of these are non-destructive, you can remove stuff and sew the seam back up again.
If you're feeling fancy, you can add a gusset to an armscye, too, to loosen it!
@asterismos5451 I'm feeling so fancy I'm about to add a gusset to some jeans... a good skill for bigger bootied ladies out there who, like me, often find trousers which are perfect at the waist but too tight around the rump. It's also removable if you lose weight!
You are doing the lord's work! Excellent tips
A rhombus? I only ever heard the word 'gusset' but that's from all the historical sewing youtube channels. 😂
Whats so interesting to me is that naturally the clothes that have lasted the longest in my wardrobe have met a lot of these requirements even if i didn't know what it was called before!
Would love a version of this for mens fashion if possible!!
I realized last summer that I find shorts with a button and zipper fly very uncomfortable. I've been slowly building a wardrobe of shorts that have drawstring ties instead. Way more comfortable in the heat of summer without all the added bulk of a button and zipper and also more adjustable if I gain or lose a few pounds! Love these tips!
I find as someone with an apron/B belly from pregnancy that I can't keep flies up. Shorts with flies are going. Drawstrings, elastic and yoga waistbands all the way
Since I'm really obsessed with the Peppermint Loungewear (Free, size inclusive pattern!) Pants because of how the pockets look, maybe you'd enjoy those as shorts too? I think the pattern even comes with a shorts length marking already. I am actually making them with added length myself as work pants because they're so comfortable and whether you're doing elastic or a drawstring isn't much of a difference anyway (I prefer elastic😇).
As an endo and pcos person, this video is so helpful! Thank you for always creating such great content 🖤
Bra extenders, wrap pants (they can look very fancy) and ribbing has helped me a lot.
Also thanks for this video ❤
I've never used bra extenders but I wish I'd known about them sooner because it sounds SO SENSIBLE
@@leenanormsHappy to have helped^^. I think it's a generational thing. Noone our age seems to know about them, but the old folks I've asked all have them x). Fast fashion strikes again!
I’m 54, with lots of weight variations for lots of reasons over the years. I’ve found bra extenders generally comfortable, fantastic solutions, since my body width changes much faster than my cup size. I’m very picky about bra fit and material due to sensory issues, and these have let me get much more use out of my favorites for years.
You can add belt loops to a side seam by just creating a little crochet chain with embroidery floss. It’s super simple, takes 5 mins
As someone who first gains weight in my arms (and whose arms are also just generally bigger in proportion to my body than clothing designers think they should be), embracing sleeveless stuff has been such a game changer. Switching to knits for my arms specifically (like cardigans and things) or larger flannels that I leave unbuttoned over tank tops has let me actually feel comfortable in my clothes.
I spent SO LONG thinking I hated sleeves because I was ashamed of my arms and that the accentuated them. Turns out I hated sleeves because none of them fit.
Shirring can be done on a sewing machine! The elastic goes on the bobbin. Personally haven’t tried it yet but there are loads of tutorials on TH-cam on how to do it.
Yes, came here looking for this comment!! Annika Victoria has a good tutorial on it, if I remember correctly.
It's actually really simple to do !
I think the point she was making is that the machine can't do it independently - they have to be operated by a person.
@@nataliecurtiss4589 that goes for everything involved in making clothes, though. Sewing machines always have to be operated by a person. I think the implication here was that shirring has to be hand stitched which is definitely doesn't.
@@nataliecurtiss4589 all machines have to be operated by a person so if that was the point she was making that means nothing is ever machine made. So I don’t think that was the point she was making. If I remember correctly she specifically said ‘by hand’.
as someone who also has hormonal weight fluctuation, thank you for this video!! I'm tired of not feeling good in my clothes and having the guilt that i need to get more clothes so I'm wearing something that fits. Appreciate ya!!!
Omg I love you! "It's planned obsolescence b@#$*". 😂 I have been watching your videos and have been inspired to get back into sewing. I am also a PCOS girly and need a new wardrobe to fit my new body. I went down the rabbit hole of fast fashion and your evolution of making clothes has inspired me.
I love the premise of this video, I think society has conditioned me so hard to never want my body to adjust but of course it makes so much sense to think about this when buying clothes!!
Thank you so much for the insights in this video!! I’m entering into a competition to design a line of inclusive workwear and have been doing a lot of research on size adjustability, so this helped a lot!
ooo sending you lots of luck, that sounds like SUCH a needed thing xxx
That’s awesome and so needed!
I have several trapeze dresses and they saw me the whole way from 2019 up to now, pandemic, pregnancy, and 1st year of parenthood included. My absolute favourite shape
These tips are so great!! I have IBS and I hate wearing tight clothes on my belly. I have a few Lucy & Yak originals that are too big for me but I've been too daunted to sew them myself. I never thought about just not opening the seam or cutting off the excess, I will definitely try this soon!
I'm glad to see folks talking about this! Since the pandemic started I've slowly been gaining weight due to changes in lifestyle and felt bad/ashamed about it since my clothes got uncomfortable, and so I've made clothing for myself that adapts to my changing measurements. Most of the stuff I've sewed has been 1700s-inspired, such as tie-waist petticoat skirts and chemises with gathered necklines. (Admittedly, fitted clothing like a vest bodice doesn't adapt as well to weight gain.) I've almost completely stopped wearing jeans, since they don't keep up with my bodily changes and they dig into my increasingly-flabby gut. My historybounding clothing is so much more forgiving of my weight changes!
*I highly recommend historybounding clothing! All you need to get started are some old bedsheets and tutorials on TH-cam or sewing blogs. Honestly, the hardest part for me was picking a favorite time period to start in!
I've been making my own clothes for a while, loving it! And recommending highly. However, I've lost a bunch of weight and some of the beautiful things I laboured over don't (and probably won't) fit 😢. So I've begun making clothes that are far more adaptable for weight loss/gain - really recommend boxy dresses with ties, so you can always fit to your body. Love these tips! And for the more advanced sewers amongst you, will recommend Mariah Patty's channel, she's super professional and experiments with size adaptable patterns and pattern making.
even as someone who’s always been a small girl, THIS IS SO NEEDED!! even just a cm of change in the shape of my body can be the difference between feeling great in my clothes and feeling like something’s just slightly off!! bodies are not static!
This was so timely! I went through my wardrobe today and took out all the stuff I'm just too big for now. And it was sad, but I'm a lot happier now, with a cleaner smaller wardrobe now that I've done it
love this! just a tip: you CAN do shirring by machine. there are tutorials here on youtube that explain this far better than i can, but basically you swap your bobbin thread for elastic thread (here we call is lastex but idk how people call it in english). you do have to wind the bobbin by hand and set your machine with the right tension and stuff, but you can machine-sew shirring and actually most people do. i don't even know how to sew shirring by hand tbh.
You could enlarge the cuff of the blue dress by sewing a small strip of fabric in a matching (or not) colour, and add both a button and a button hole to either side, so that you can insert it where needed. If you dont need all that much flexibility, you could also just sew it fixed to the side of the cuff with the button hole. 🧵
I hope this makes sense. 😅
Ooh! Loop a tiny black hair elastic (the kind that come 100 or more in a box) through your button hole and around that biting button! It works for trouser buttons, too, when the waist is just a touch too snug.
I was so hoping that your advice would not be just stretch and you did not disappoint! I absolutely hate the feeling of stretchy clothing
I just sewed my first dress which is a trapeze dress from a gorgeous vintage bed sheet I thrifted. I got the pattern from this japanese book in the library! I love a lot of modern japanese silhouettes because they tend to focus on simplicity and versatility and aren't often so body con but go for more space to move in and suggest the interest is more in mixing the layering of the simple pieces.
63 here, after menopause my average size 12-14 body buldged to XL and beyond. I got tired of shopping fast-fashion where nothing fit or looked the least bit flattering. 😢 frustrated with this and appalled by throw-away polluting retail I bought a sewing machine. ❤ Your tips, very helpful when searching for patterns. THANK YOU !!! 🎉
For people who like a more ‘streetstyle’ look: cargo pants have been helpful for me! Those kind of cargo/army pants usually have adjustable waists and ties at the ankles. My two pairs have lasted me yeaaaars!!
Was looking through for comments like this! No offence to Leena but my heart was sinking going through this because a lot of the suggestions were really not my style, but cargo pants works!
You can actually sew sheering on a sewing machine. you need normal thread for the top thread and use sheering elastic in the bobbin. Just saying, in case you want to try it! Sewing your own clothes is the best. My waist fluctuates by a couple of inches from morning to evening, so i make my waistbands adjustable so they are still comfy in the evening, but not too big during the rest of the day!
Yes! Shirring can be done on a machine! I haven’t done it personally, but I just saw a video from Blueprint DIY’s TH-cam channel in which she tries machine shirring, and I’m sure that there are many other tutorials out there
Annika Victoria has a few videos about how to do shirring on a machine at home! They have been inactive for a while, but their catalogue of incredible sewing videos should still be up, I recommend any sewing lover to look into it!
Oh good someone else already made the comment so I don’t need to lol
Janelle from Rosary Apparel has also done a video on shirring too. Unfortunately my sewing machine doesn't do the best job with it, but it absolutely does not have to be done by hand as Leena said 😊
I think Leena means "by a person using a machine" when she says by hand - a lot of people think clothes manufacturing is a lot more automated than it is but yes you can do it with a machine at home just like it is fine with a machine in a factory
I was really spoiled for choice when I chose to get into lolita fashion as a teenager. Most of the dresses I had featured shirring and lace up features by default so they've always been my favorites. But I really like how you're discussing functional elements of clothing design that lend themselves towards adjustability!
Yes, this! You see shirring on a lot of ordinary basic Japanese clothes as well because it's not uncommon for brands to be one size (sadly) but then incorporate adjustability features to make that fit a wider range.
Although the comment about shirring lasting long did make me chuckle. Maybe more so than Spandex blend stretch fabric, so, but I've bought a fair few second-hand dressesover the years where the shirring on the back or straps was shot to hell (and they weren't always that old).
One thing people might want to look for is whether the shirring elastic for on a garment is enclosed in a channel (making it easy to replace, standard in lolita fashion) or it's stitched directly to the fabric (common in fast fashion and harder to repair if/when it wears out). 😊
I not only fluctuate in weight/size, but also get bloated so things change daily. This is super helpful! I already had some but you gave me some more ideas, thanks! 😊
Omg YES about stretchy clothes being not the answer!!
Thank you so much for this vid Leena, I didn't realise how much I needed it!! I have IBS which means my size fluctuates daily, and I'm only now realising I've felt like I don't fit my clothes rather than my clothes not fitting me. Your tips here have been so helpful and they've really given me hope :)
You can sew shirring panels with your regular machine, if you put the elastic as the bobbin! There's no way it would be a common feature in sweatshop clothes if it was all hand sewn 😁
My personal favourite with size adjustments is corset lacing at the back, gives me nice wiggle room under my dresses for when I want to wear sweaters under them during winter 😊
I think by "by hand" she means someone has to actively force the fabric into a sewing machine for every single line.
Before I first discovered how it's made, I just thought a machine did it automatically (like for example there are machines that automatically create a knit fabric, like the one she showed as examples of stretchy fabric)
This is what I need! I'm secretly pregnant (just 5 weeks) with my second and I intend to breastfeed successfully this time. So I started the task of sorting my wardrobe today and it's been interesting realising how much I need. I'll get charity shop and vinted stuff, but I want to get stuff that's going to last me, yaknow?
Man, your energy the whole way through this was immaculate.
Where has this video been all my life?!! Genuinely amazing advice that I shall use for years and years! This strategy makes way more sense than just having 1/3 of a wardrobe repeated in 3 different sizes
Some things I learned while pregnant 2x was that there are these things you can buy in maternity shops which attach to the buttons on jeans to extend how long you can wear them (basically you unzip the jeans and attach it but the fabric covers your fly area). Also, Empire waist things are great for fluctuating bellies (think pride & prejudice or Bridgerton dresses). Historical clothes were made with multiple panels of fabric and much wider seam allowances to account for fluctuating bodies. Also, in kids clothes now some of them have adjustable wristbands where there is a bit of elastic that comes out of the waistband on either hip and attaches to a button on the inside of the waistband, and had multiple holes for size changes just like leather belts. HOW IS THIS NOT A THING FOR ADULTS? Oh, I know! Effing planned obsolescence! I can't wait until capitalism is obsolete!
Also, this doesn't effect me, but I know some people who gain weight on their feet first before anywhere else, so shoes, sandals, and boots that can accommodate fluctuations. Would be handy for them. Flip flops are probably the most accommodating. Any shoes with laces, insoles that can be replaced with thinner or thicker ones, ones with more than one hole for straps that buckle, ones with some elastic on the sides, ankles, and straps, and slip ons with no backs (I think they're called loafers, but don't quote me on that).
large arm scyes (armpit seams or arm holes) are great for fluctuating bodies.
Puffed sleeves are great for those of us that fluctuate a lot in our shoulders or biceps.
Double-breasted jackets/coats, where you only button half of the buttons (this saved me for months from buying a maternity winter coat).
Sports bras (bra-lettes in the UK?) Help with fluctuating boobs, as long as they don't have cups or underwire on the inside... I'm glaring in your direction, Victoria's Secret!
If you look at nursing tops, lots of them tend to be wraps or have loose material around the boobs to not only accommodate whipping out your boob whenever your child becomes hangry, but also fluctuating boob sizes. You don't have to be a nursing mother to wear those styles!
These are fantastic suggestions! Thank you! I’m commenting largely to help increase noticeability, so more folks might see this ✨
Thoughts for the dress with the button cuff, could potentially remove the button and put in a ribbon tie so that you could tie it to a comfortable width OR use an tiny elastic around the button, pull it through the button hole and then re-secure it do the button to have more room OR use a piece of fabric in the same color behind the button area, sew a similar button (or by two buttons that match the dress) and button hole on it and have two buttons with more give. The final comments intended to provide knowledge, so feel free to skip if it's not going to serve you:
Shirring is not always strictly by hand. There are shirring specific machines out there to make it much faster and easier if you want to add that to repertoire but don't want to do the hand work.
As to adjustable skirts: In western culture, they were really common in the 18th century (back when large, tie on pockets were the norm), though was likely common enough before then. Many skirts with that type of construction were petticoats and not the over gown or skirt. But it is an overstatement to say all skirts were built like that historically.
One of my favourite dresses that I've had for years is from Weekday and is essentially built like a dressing gown but the belt is sewn into the body. It has and will fit me at so many different sizes, I love it!
I finally have a proper grown up job and have become a member of the gumption club! As a long time viewer I'm so happy I can give back a little for all the joy you've brought over the years :D
Thank you so much for this video, Leena! As someone who basically lives in oversized clothes to hide my fluctuating body, it is so nice to have someone highlight the options of clothes that can make me feel not just comfortable but also good about my body.
Oooo I love that collage dress hack!! I would usually look at a pattern like that and go nah, no shape, but those ties make it look so good!!
I've made split side seam skirt couple a days ago and I love it so much! It's a great feeling to know that I can wear it in years to come, cause it will fit me well no matter how my body changes
I’m watching this while sewing. When I look for patterns online, I put „peasant“ in front of what whatever I’m looking for and it’s usually what you’d want: timeless, simple, adjustable! The peasants knew SOMETHING!
these tips all seem really obvious in hindsight but as someone without much sewing knowledge this was so helpful!
Leena! The dark blue dress is gorgeous! If the cuffs get tight again try this trick: pull a small hair elastic throug the buttonhole so there are two loops. Pull one loop through the other so it's secure. Now you can use the elastic loop to put around the button! The cuff is now bigger AND slightly elastic!
Machines can do shirring! You can make one pretty easily without having to do it by hand! All you do is hand wind elastic onto your bobbin and use regular thread on top, then steam to help the elastic shrink.
These are great tips! I would love a video where you modify pieces to make them more comfortable for a changing body. For example, adding belt loops to a dress, adding elastic to sleeves, dying/ lining your pants with a colorful lining you don't mind being shown when rolled up, etc.
God girl, you rock!! So inspired to get back into my sewing room and sew up a storm…
Loved these ideas. The historical route to solving this problem while retaining more form fitting silhouettes if that's your preference-- bodkin closures. Big old smock + lace up pinafore/apron is the style for working women across like five centuries from england to Finland and down to Hungary, just with variations in necklines and placing lacings at side/back/ or front. Or dropping the lace-up closure and just belting down with these beautifully patterned , crazy long belts that didnt need to match the apron or the smock.
Is there another word for this? I Google image searched "bodkin closures" to see what you meant and only got bodkins as results.
I was in a charity shop today and I heard your voice in my head say "well I am saving it from the landfill" as I considered an item to buy 😂 I bought a fabulous leopard print dress, a vintage 80s embroidered and beaded jumper and a gorgeous long skirt so it was a good day for thrifting.
Trapeze dresses are fantastic ! They are very comfortable and can totally be classy enough for fancy workplaces (in my case, law firms/banks) ❤ a godsend
A minute and a half into the video and I already subscribed! Our views are aligned AND I already am having fun with your sense of humor
i need a masc fashion version of this. amazing goals
ugh, NOTHING hits the spot quite like really clever design 🤩 **chefs kiss**
especially the last part of the video, besides the obvious benefits of clothes that FIT you, imagine the freedom to easily share clothes with friends and even trade stuff around to keep things fresh and new without have garments actually leave or enter that collective closet?? or even what a fun opportunity to try out different styles and flavours you're not sure about yet?? AHH utopian ideal. let's do it 🥰👏👏👏
THANKS LEENA!!!! MWUAH!!!! 🙇👑💖
Sitting here thinking about changing my skirt because I have endo and my tummy hurts, and I see this video 😅 This feels like something we should be teaching in school
omg! you and Hannah Loiuse Poston are great minds alike! (and I’m a fan of both of you!)
Leena, great vid as always. These days I just always opt for a size or two up in pretty much everything, not only because my weight fluctuates a lot too, but also because the amount of stuff that shrinks after a few washes - even on delicate cycles of 30 degrees or less - is just crazy! It's true that stretchy isn't the answer - it's the cuts and construction!
Thank you for talking so nicely about your body, Leena!
I am a Reenactor who dresses as a Pioneer for work, and as a Viking/Greco-Roman/Medieval Lady/Artistic Dress Reformist/Cosplayer on my own time.
I am also trying to make sure that what I make will work as Maternity Wear. *Jazz hands*
I like to make items that are loose and made of natural fibers (cotton and linen), and then cinch them in with decorative belts and bands.
Us Curvy ladies look AMAZING in a Chiton/Stola/Tunica, just an fyi. (Although I think the extra fold in the Peplos is not the most flattering. 🤔)
And a Wrapper dress is the sweatpants of the 1860's. You can leave it loose or cinch it in, as you please.
A 1700's petticoat has ties on the front and back, so you can wear it throughout a period of fluctuating weight. (It also has slits on the side, through which you can reach large tie-on pockets...)
There are many, many, many petticoat tutorials on TH-cam. It's 2 sheets, gathered at the top, and sewn together on the sides, with twill tape ties along the top. Voila.
Japanese Hakama have a similar design, and have the bonus element of being secret pants. Shhhh... 🤫
Shearing (sheering?) Seems to me (and I might be wrong here) the modern equivalent of Smocking. The difference is that there isn't any elastic involved, because it was used previous to Elastic's invention, so you don't have to worry about that wearing out.
It's meant to allow for stretching, and you can learn how to do it via various TH-cam tutorials (if you wish to learn about the history behind it, check out Nicole Rudolph's Artistic Dress Reform videos, specifically part 2).
Actually, most Dress Reform outfits are designed to be comfy. And if you are into the Artistic Dress Reform movement or the Aesthetic Movement, they are beautiful as well. 😉
As for growth that's height-related, if you make an item and give it a particularly large hem (4"-6"), that's not particularly hard to unpick (if you use a Felling stitch this is pretty easy to do) and then you can "let your hems down." Which often happened with children in the past when they had growth spurts or were suddenly of marriage age.
(I am a short human, so I have to do the opposite, rolling up my hems and felling them down. 😂 I have a dress that's been worn by 3 different reenactors. One was tall, one was medium height, and one was me. We all made it work by felling the hems up or taking them down.)
You can also lengthen your clothes with Insertion Lace.
Bernadette Banner talks about this at length in her Historically Accurate Mary Poppins video. The bonus to this method is that you get to make everything just a little bit prettier.
This issue is not new, and I love seeing how those who came before us have solved the same problem in various different ways.
I hope that these suggestions help, on top of the lovely ones Leena has shared. ❤
Leena the more I watch your videos, the more I wish we lived closer because we have so much in common! Thanks for sharing your scientific observations :D
I love how you think about your wardrobe. This is such important information. I learned how to sew growing up, but this would have been even more useful.
Omg the blue dress looks so pretty on you
Those wrap dresses are so beautiful dang.
Another idea: I've been trying to be creative with my growing belly similar to the weight gain mentioned here for a while, but the boob room that is a blessing for Leena is usually just so obviously made for boobs bigger than mine ever get. Also, where Leena has mentioned tending to like layering and warm clothing, I always run too hot. The dress I would copy for the rest of my life if I could is a practically short empire waist dress with cut-off sleeves and a not-too-constricting neckline. True, I grow out of even that nice high waist eventually, but it lets my main weight area exist a pretty long time without any constricting stuff over it and I get to have lots o round-the-body tailoring and a silhouette with a waistline where my body is slimmest. If the skirt is reasonably a-line my belly actually fans it out into a very girl-inspired cupcake dress look. I get a kick out of the visual difference. Yes, everybody, my waist is up here drawing your eye up to my shouldera and face! Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.
Raglan sleeves in shirts and dresses have been my style meny years, because they fit if I gain or loose weight. 👌
I NEEDED THIS THANK YOU!!!!
yes, I'm yelling and screaming because I've been researching this for years. Giving you consensual germ free hugs and kisses!
I bought the collage top/dress pattern SPECIFICALLY to make that tie dress hack bc it's so gorgeous!!
I freaking LOVE YOU!! LOL Love love. On that wonderful purple dress with the non-expanding sleeves, you can just add a lop of elastic through the buttonhole and then button through the elastic. Also, for pants without elastic, I almost always add elastic to my waistband, which I can then tighten and loosen as needed. Love it. Keep up the delightful videos!
I saw an interesting post online recently pointing out how many traditional outfits from different cultures are just one big piece of rectangular fabric that was then wrapped/tied (belted great kilt, toga, sari, etc.) which gets at so many of the things you cover in this video.
You honestly get to a point in trying to save clothing that you love to fit that you HAVE to learn basic sewing techniques. I've learned a couple of quick size adjustment techniques off of youtube that have saved my favourite tops and dresses and it'll have to do for now until the industry produces fits that I like in patterns that are actually appealing. Anyway, GRAET video
Yeesss! The video we’ve all been waiting for!
Old 1940s and 50s US military pants had a series of buttons with a tab to pull in the waist and also basically tiny ratchet straps type pull-tabs around the waist for lots of adjustability, and then a balloon or barrel leg type cut as well. and honestly they’re perfect for people who tend to fluctuate more in the booty and thighs (hi). Some newer companies make similar designs, the one that springs to mind is the hiking pants from Wondery, which I haven’t tried yet but have my eye on bc of the similar design!
What a helpful video! I really struggle to find affordable clothes in my size. I now know what to look for in clothes so I can always feel comfortable.
As someone who mostly fluctuates between 2 sizes, my answer was to just keep items in both sizes (Only works if you're actually genuinely likely to be back in that size)
I'm tall so most sleeves end much higher up my arms than intended, soI like to add an elastic loop to tight cuffs to button up with. Gives a bit of extra reach and if it starts fitting on the button hole again it just gets tucked underneath so you can't see it.
I'm an endo girly and I am always looking for clothes with this in mind! Thank you!!
7:23 I have the same problem with a few vintage dresses, they were probably designed with shorter arms in mind.
I made an extension with a piece of elastic where I sewed a button on one side and made a buttonhole on the other, that way it looks as if you had cufflinks?
The same contraption works for gaining 2/3 cms on a skirt waist!
I swear sewing my own clothes has been radical in having a wardrobe that flexes with my body.
Like and saved so hard! Since the ago of 13, my wardrobe has NEVER fit my body in a flattering way, I only tend to fluctuate by one size up or down but I'm very heavy in the chest, small waist and bum but then wide again at the hips than thighs. Most of the time I default to lose fitting clothes that hide my figure rather than compliment. I'd love a wardrobe that I can just adjust at the various points on my body that vary drastically in size!
Just in the way of general wear and tear I have been loving my new electronic de-bobbler/de-piller that cost only £3 from The Range. Most purposeful piece of plastic I've ever owned, giving lots of items a new life...plus its just satisfying! Highly recommend 💕🤗
The practical knowledge you brought this video is just chefs kiss!!!! It helped me think about studying garment construction more when buying and sewing :)
I have a dress with the same shape as the “ghost dress” and the arm holes are slightly too small. I also have basic sewing skills - and I never thought of picking stitches out to make the arms larger!! I am so excited to do this now and to wear this dress so much more often.
If you have growing children, or clothes that shrink in the wash overtime, or need more length because of weight gain, you can add a few inches by crocheting an additional lace or ruffle in complementary or even contrasting colours.
For anyone searching for tops with the all in one type sleeves the terms you want to use are "dolman sleeve" or "batwing sleeve"
Oooooo! Love the to-make list! I look forward to seeing them!
Gosh Leena, a weight-fluctuating pattern book would be amazingggggg
I am in this finishing steps of that adjustable skirt, I'll probably make another one or two as well as it is amazing