Great video Mr Wranglerstar! My dad used to do something similar for our old splitting mauls & axes when my brothers & I were old enough to cut wood in the bush with him. He used mechanics wire & double wrapped it real tight from about 6" out right tight to the head & back. I learned a tip from a man we used to call the axe handle king of Muskoka. He used 3 1/2 inch galvanized framing nails for rivets with a 3/16 hole on wooden handled implements, worked like a charm.
When pinning something like that, you should drill the hole in the handle a couple millimeters offset (in this case, offset toward the back of the handle) so that as you press the pin in, it pulls the collar tight to the handle.
Just wanted you to know that you've inspired how I work on my wood projects lately. I'm making a few Christmas gifts out of resawn reclaimed timbers and taking my time to do it right. It feels good and the finished product is much more satisfying. Thanks!
A few ideas: 1.For cutting the material to wrap handle: Use a piece of bristle paper; thin but ridged using the same scribe like you did. You wrap, trim, and fit it each time just as you did the metal until perfect, then you have a pattern w/out maring your handle. I've used this for making leather sheaths and similar projects as yours; metals, leather, polymers. 2. I think anyone doing a project like this understands that drilling or adding a fastener compromises the handle. A couple knife makers I know use some nearly indestructible epoxies that you can't even burn them off the blade. An prior commenter mentioned this and I would like to second that idea using a ridged polymer (Kevlar, nylon), or a heavy treated rawhide. Your vision, mission, or ministry... I'm not sure what you label your show as... Is an inspiration in all facets of life and appreciate what you and your family are doing.
hey wranglerstar I had no idea there were so many experts on a givin subject until I started reading comments on your videos. I commend you, I dont know how you do it. keep up the good work brother.
Nice idea with the collar. Just figured out how I'll be doing my axe. Make a template with a paper bag. Trace it on an old stainless steel sink. Cut the steel with a dremmel. Coat the handle area and steel with rubber cement. Let it dry out and become tacky. Wrap the steel around the handle. Permanent bond. Repeat rubber cementing steps with Leather over Steel. Thanks for another excellent video.
Wranglerstar, PLEASE use some light gloves - those cut edges are very sharp. They also enable you to hold the part a bit more securely. As for getting old - this year I had cataracts removed from my very near-sighted eyeballs - took about 7-8 minutes per eye, and the inserted lenses enabled me to have perfect vision for the first time in my life. Wonderful! The surgeon was a target shooter like me, and made my right eye a bit more acute then the left - 20/15 in right, 20/20 in left, so I can see the "X" a lot sharper.UT - my aged eyes no longer flex as do younger ones, so I have "half-eye" reading glasses. One drawback for me is that my regular glasses also served as safety glasses, so now I have an added bit of equipment. As a gunsmith - the magnification of the reading glasses helps immensely. many thanks for all your so very informative videos.
I use some nice thick nylon string wrapped a couple of layers thick just below the head of my maul. Simple to apply, works a treat and is easy to replace when it gets damaged. I would think it would also absorb more of the power of a missed strike than sheet metal would.
I know you'll keep us posted on the result. I'm sure there are many ways to accomplish this task, but I like that you did it the way you decided. Sometimes you just have to dig in and work the problem otherwise the problem works you. Thanks for taking us along for the build, Cody.
I've used wide-diameter electrical heat-shrink tubing for my framing hammers and that does a pretty good job as well. Combine that on an axe handle with a leather overstrike protector (or water pipe as you say) to add some cushioning and your handle will be pretty much impregnable.
Ive wrapped em in baling twine and hit em with a heat gun. it will fray some if you over strike but hit it with the heat gun again at the end of the day and it'll be fine.
I've been doing this for years and can say it does work, (when compared to no protector at all). Mine have never been as pretty, but I put some inner tube material under the metal as a shock absorber. I fasten the metal on the back with small pan-head screws so no big hole through the hickory.
love the finished product, I put heavy mechanics wire wrapped very tightly and tapped each wrap to the contours of the axe head as I went with a blunt cold chisel. I held each end in position with a very small nail with a head big enough to wrap the wire around before I drove it all the way home. the starting point gets buried under the wire leaving only the end opposite the head visible.
really enjoy your videos.it has always been a rite of passage into manhood to make or repair working tools.....ax, maul.shovel etc...in many cultures...mine being Scottish and Norwegian...that said,lol.my profession is mechanic.when I'm trying to save a handle on a hammer we use wraps of copper wire I'm going to try that and your collar idea on a couple axes I'm fixing up. the old stuff is always better to fix then go buy a new cheap version. keep up the great videos and thanx
Made one many years a go. But how I did it was first made an thick paper template. Then transferred it to metal sheet. After words. Tig weld the back side. heated up the metal and put it on the wooden handle. Just like you do it with wooden wheels. Interesting to se you made it this way. Always nice to se people doing things in a different way :)
I think I would have opted to epoxy the guard onto the handle then wrap it with a bungee or other elastic until it set then file the excess. I'm afraid whatever you gained by the guard was lost with the rivet hole.
wranglerstar You know what they say, don't gamble more than you can afford to lose. If you don't like the handle much anyway and it does break, you can make a handle you do like.
wranglerstar I suggest using the ball end of your ball peen for peening a rivet it will spread more. Also if you check out my post on the first section there is the way that the guys do it for sledge hammers in a diesel shop.
I found that using Marine Silicone works on all types of projects and fills in the gaps and keeps the water out. Also it provides a "shock guard" for some items. Just put any kind of dish soap on your fingers and spread it where you want and easy clean up. Thanks for posting another great video.
Years ago my father welded a piece of angle to the head of the maul to serve the same purpose. He split wood for years with the same handle and I still have it today.
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I have used discarded bicycle innertubes as a protection and even on semi cracked handle with success. Wrapping. Like the paracord technique, but it does not require soaking or drying - wrap it tight and get cutting.
+ᏳᏫᏜᏡᎦᏈᏜᏫᏳ I agree with this approach. I have always used strips of my old bike inner tubes (the ones with too many pin hole leaks to be worth patching) as my go-to protect-all solution as well as my quick grip-making solution (using thinner strips)for just about everything. I'm seeing in the comments here that a bunch of other people have realized just how versatile inner tube rubber can be, as well. I've made quite a few soft rubber woodworking mallets by wrapping inner tube strips around some of my wooden mallets until there's a good 1/4"-3/8"+ of material. I never glue or tape my wraps at all, I simply slip a bit of the corner of the end under one of the loops that came just before the end and that's usually enough to keep everything tight and snug for my needs. It's also just as easy to put the end right under and through the previous loop/ wrap-around then pull out any slack to make the tension even greater.
I have several JM2CW comments / suggestions (constructive criticism) for future use. 1) If you can't clamp it down to prevent things from moving, set the condition up as it will be used and drill it as a unit - don't drill on a broom stick and then go back to the axe handle as it's highly unlikely to get the entrance and exit holes to line up. That's why there was a bit of a gap between plate and axehead on the one side (the pin "found" the rear hole and tweaked the plate to align). 2) Make a small countersink (doesn't need to be excessive) and peen the material into the countersink recess to prevent the "rivet" from dislodging. 3) You didn't so much as need a bigger hammer just use the peen end of the hammer not the conventional head. 4) A lot of thought is needed about how the forces are going to be distributed from impact into metal plate carried thru plate and wood of axe handle and transfered into "rivet" and dispersed thru it all (maybe now the bolt will do the worst damage). 5) It will make it look nicer but probably better leaving the plate off so any damage isn't concealed. (the plate could get a little banged up looking but there might be a serious crack in the wood maybe now in 2 areas, the impact zone and thru the bolt hole that can't now be seen). Overall though nicely done. I'm currently working on a similar project to repair broken wooden pruning lopper handle using thinwall EMT as "side plate" and same techniques.
Great idea and video. Thanks for posting. Just a tip for next time scribing. Don't rotate scribe as you follow the curve. Keep the scribe parallel to the axe handle. That is why you had gaps on either sides.
Thats really nice! I like that. I think I would probably make a 'template' out of paper which would allow me to make all of the radius' perfect. Then I would trace that template directly to the sheet metal. The stretching can be mitigated by forming it and then filing the excess. Then you have a truly custom and sturdy fit.
I have often thought of wrapping my maul handle. After watching your video I think I will try wrapping it with the old fashioned black rubber bungee cords near the head. Omitting the stock "s" hooks and using a heavy zip tie or wire to fasten it. Thanks for the inspiration :)
One little point....Use masking tape to follow the curves under the head. The next pass half way and so on until you are just wrapping in a straight line.. Cut the tape with a utility knife and peal it off the handle in one big pc.. Stick it to the sheet steel and cut to the pattern made by the tape. I know I didn't explain very well but do the first step and you'll see where I was going..
"I really don't mind getting old. There's a peace and contentment that comes with it that I've never experienced before." That's one of the best things I've ever heard.
Great job! Another idea is to leave some extra material on the back side of the axe. Enough to over lap and then pop two brad tacks down through both layers. Just a thought. If your afraid of it still moving, then just stick a couple of tacks in the front as well. Also I use snips like those everyday, they can cut a very small radius if you're use to them. Wiss and Bennett make the best snips. Not taking anything from the job you done. Just some suggestions. As I said before, great job. You are a very crafty man and I like the fact that you get your son involves with some of your projects. Start them off while they are still young and they will carry on the skills for generations. Cheers and God bless.
I made a leather collar for the exact same reason, my method was to wrap the area in plastic wrap a few times to build a durable cover. Then paper mache style put on duct tape to fortify it. I trimmed it around the axe head, and what shape I wanted it to have Then cut it off the hand the result was a very funky looking piece of leather that fit perfectly. I have a picture if you like.
thanks for the idea Wranglerstar. I took inspiration and simply overlapped the tin on the back and put two screws in it. Too bad i didn't figure this one out by myself. My splitting axe was at its fourth handle!!!
if you have a small shape to cut out like this the easiest way to do it is to take a zip cut 1/8th cutting blade and cut directly in to the line making several small strips then cutting it from the side taking out the small strips as you go. the strips falling away make space for your cutting blade to cut off the next strip. thats how we do it at my shop for one off projects like this. cheers and great channel.
This is a awesome channel. Its just interesting how you make things and ive learned alot. you remind me alot of my dad but on youtube. you both have a wealth of knowledge that youve learned over the years and you know to make/fix things thats so interesting to me.
That was good placement for the pin. The handle is like a beam in that it's primary loading is bending. The back of the handle is in compression when chopping, so the hole for the pin does not weaken it. It would be okay even in the center, but your placement looks spot-on best to me.
My grandfather did something very similar. He did a few things differently was the riveting was moved back so the rivet heads wasn't at the widest point. He used two rivets one was a quarter inch from the lowest part of the head the second was down in line with the first. He would mark the holes on the handle drill the holes a shade back. The shape was the same as yours.
You know your a perfectionist when you make one of these and it comes out super nice and the first words out of your mouth are.... " Its not perfect... but the next one will be better"... You have a disease :P
I have a Husqvarna Hatchet, and found out about the logo being a gunsight when I was trying to find out who made it. I am pretty sure mine is one of the first run of Hultafors Axes that Husquvarna used just based on the design, but I can't be sure. They originally used Wetterlings seconds, then switched to Hultafors, and have gone through a few different designs since then.
while I am not religious I really enjoy your videos. your way of life and living day to day is amazing and it is amazing seeing you guys come together as a family and work on projects together. keep making vids!!
When working with any kind of sheet metal, it is best to make a mandrel slightly smaller but the same profile as the finished object cut the metal to the size required but form it on the smaller mandrel. then when you fit it to the actual handle use the shot mallet to ease the profile out to the exact shape. BTW absolutely love watching the doings of your homestead god bless your house and every one under the roof. PS Get your self a Dremel tool mains powered type and all the attachments you will work wonders with it.
That's interesting. Many years using something like that, but crafted from soft and fat material like track rubber(earlier) or sole polyurethane(last two years, lightweight and strength, thickness about 5mm). In theory they give best protection cause of longer breaking distance. Maby hikory much harder and steel better fit for this, I use tenacious birch handles and steel don't fit for them cause they may be damaged under the protection. With best best regards from Siberia! P.S And sorry for my rude english - I use it mainly for liscening and reading)
at 3:07 u say u "dont mind getting older their is peace and contentment that comes with it". i just mentioned that same sentiment with someone at a BBQ.. pretty crazy.. anyway great vids cody!
Cody, this is a great idea, and you do great work, as always. A couple problems, though: 1.) that thin sheet metal you're using will still dent and damage the wood underneath during a bad overstrike; or even during splitting, when the log doesn't split in a straight line with the axe/maul head, and you have some of the log impinge upon the handle area. 2.) I don't like the idea of drilling holes through the handle of a "strong impact" tool like an axe, maul, or sledge. A hookaroon or pickaroon, yes (these are mainly pulling tools). But not a tool that receives a strong impact on its head. Reason: even with hickory, the jarring impact, or the sudden "stop" after a strong hit, tends to put stress on the rivet or roll-pin, and this puts "parting stress" in the hole. In other words, the rivet or pin acts as a prybar to pull the wood fibers apart. It won't happen immediately, of course, but it will happen over time. Once you drill a hole in a handle and you separate the wood fibers like that, you can't "take it back" -- you can't undo the damage. I would've rather seen a buckle type of fastener that can be replaced. For these reasons, I personally am more fond of using a good polypropylene or nylon rope wrap that is durable; especially poly rope -- it take strong impacts without the fibers separating. A rope wrap is soft enough that it will absorb most of the impact, and only transfer "pressure" type of forces against the handle (pressure forces, not impact forces). And it's easily replaceable and won't damage the handle. I'm ex-Navy, so I have a plethora of wrapping and knotting techniques at my disposal. But I mainly use what's called a "spiral hitch" for the wrap technique around the handle under the head. You can find a good video on how to do a spiral hitch here on the 'Tube. One I recommend is this one: Spiral hitched paracord handle ("Spiral hitched paracord handle" by PaleSpruce). The nice thing about the spiral hitch is that each wrap around the handle interlocks with the previous, and also gives -- as its name implies -- a spiraling buttress that is easy to grip (especially with gloves). In determining whether to start the wrap from the head and work down the handle, or from about 4-to-6 inches on the handle behind the head and work to the head, I choose the latter. (I.e. start from the thinnest diameter of the handle, and work your way up to the thickest, so the increasing incline causes each wrap to squeeze against the previous wrap). If you use poly rope, you can seal and lock the ends of the rope into itself with a small flame (butane lighter). A spiral-hitched wrap is extremely durable, doesn't transfer the impact of an overstrike to the handle like denting sheet metal would (denting sheet metal transfers that injury right through to the wood -- you'll see), and is easily replaced in case repeated overstrikes (over time) cause the rope to finally fail. I can re-do a wrap in the field, in about 5 minutes from start of the wrap, to sealing and locking the two ends of the rope with a lighter. No kidding. Give it a try. PM me if you have any questions, or would like to see pics on what the final product looks like.
I use steel-belted radial tire cut with a hacksaw and attached to the handle with heavy gauge fencing wire. It's not cosmetically pretty but it works a treat!
Aircraft mechanic sheet metal tip for 'ya Cody: When you make your cuts, not allow the tips to come together in the sheet metal. It will prevent the metal from distorting where they do. Nice job, and a neat idea. Gonna have to give this a try on my handled wood destroyers :-)
You should overlap that seam on the back (poll?) end of the maul and spot weld the seam shut or something. Seems like if you miss when hitting a wedge or something that seam will open up. Your my favorite person on TH-cam. Well... I take that back. After the thousands and thousands of girls on TH-cam.. Your my favorite.. After them. Haha. Keep the vids coming!
Hi Wranglerstar. I wanted to ask if you could make some videos on basic metall working skills like welding or using a cutting torch - maybe even on something like an angle grinder (I know for you country guys it's standard, but when you grow up without such things it's not). Or would you recommend to get someone to teach you this kind of stuff while standing next to you? Many of this stuff looks quite dangerous to me (as someone with no experience in that field).
I take a strip of rubber cut from an old car tire and put it lengthwise up the front of the top 2-3 inches of the handle, then duct tape it on. Not clean looking but it does the job. For a maul, the handle is round enough to get some flexible rubber hose of the right size and just cut a piece a couple inches long and run it up the handle and into place just below the head.
That is a really nice job. A few months ago, I was wondering what I could do with my Scand Forest Axe. I had just put a big divot in it. I sanded it out and linseeded it. But I know I'm going to bugger it up again. :)
i know you hate plastic / rubber handled things, buy im teaching my roomate how to split wood and well lets just say he misses allot lol,.and im certanly not immune to missing aswell. after about 2 maul handles broke in a week, i did some reserch and came upon the wilton bash maul. its got 6 hardened steel rods encaseed in a hardish rubber handle, i was already somewhat familiar with their sledgehammers of the same design because a friend of mine who workes in a steel mill said they use them there and they are totally indistructable. they are pricey yes but man is it a beast! i got the 8lb one altho its actually around 14# with the handle (the rods add allot of weight). it did need to be reprofiled out of the box but it didnt take long with an angle grinder and flap disk and my roomate squirting water on it to cool it. no its not the most efficiant tool since allot of the weight is in the handle and not in the head.where it can do work, but man is it tough and it certanly goes through wood like no other maul ive owned. its been solidly overstruck multixple times, full weight right on the handle, and you cant even tell anything happened,.it has absolutely no damage whatsoever.
I usually weld a piece of V metal profile 3mm thick, 3cm wide and about 10cm long in front of the handle, doesnt untamper the axe as the heat is local, works very well, no holes to weaken the handle. Tried putting bolt trough handle but didnt work as well, no need for bolt as the axe head stays on from wedge
The collars I saws at the gransforsbruk site seem to be recessed into the handle wood ... which was my first thought watching you make it. Of course you're trying to retro-fit onto an existing handle. But, assuming the collar worked well for you, when you make handles in the future, you should design it so the collar is recessed level with the rest of the wood. in fact, I wonder whether having it go right into the axe hole might help. Mind you, I'm making this up without any expertise, so I may be spouting garbage.
I used some heavy duty rubber padding, about .5cm in thickness warped in ducktape. Seems to do the same thing thou the tape do wear off quickly but then again, ducktape dirt cheap in my local store so I don't worry too much.
Wranglerstar, I think you had such awkward trouble with the file because you're using it like a rasp. Try lifting up on the backstroke to keep from snagging. (this also helps keep your file sharper for longer as backstroking on a non-crossed file dulls it very quickly.
looks good lots of work. what i have done over the years is just rap a bunch of tape around the base of the handle. good tape 3M super 33 or duck tape its not pretty but it works. tape get ripped up remove and put new tape on. i have saved lots of 4 pound hammer handles over the years
You do a great job on getting everything in frame of the camera! Although you should turn down the background music just a little. But you do a good job narrating the video! Great voice!
when you're sliding the metal on and off to fit it, scratching the finish, I die a little inside. Can't be avoided and can be refinished, but still. Great video, I bought the Stihl Pro Forestry that comes with the overstrike already on it, love it.
i am a very loyal viewer and i really like and appreciate your videos, however if i may mention something that i noticed about this video , i love the idea and i always thought that the wood handel needed such a support, what i think would be a good idea is if you applied some epoxy/any glue or what so ever under the metal sheet to better hold it in place in addition the back side ( where the two ends of the sheet are supposed to meet) that area is somewhat dangerous , i noticed that you slide your hand along the full shaft when u swing these two edges may cut your finger or even when the axe is hanging around in ur tools area another tool may bend that part out as the dont meet perfectly , nor is there anything to prevent them from hooking up into something
Hello wranglerstar. I have the same axe as a hultafors. I have found it to be an excellent splitting axe if you put the speed into it. I have been considering a similar guard for a while but was going to do it in leather. However I think yours looks excellent and probably more sturdy. You will have to let us know how it works out for you.
After seeing people make sinew backed bows i wonder if that could be a good material for this. I've never tried it myself but it seems like it could be a good natural shock absorber that also tightens up around the wood once it dries, which i assume is better for structural integrity then rivets. I would probably just duct tape some EVA plastic or an old garden hose onto the handle. But you seem to have an aversion against everything that isn't iron, wood or oil so... sinew.
Very nice sir. I think I´ll do the same. Except maybe i´ll leave in the back one side of tin longer so I can wrap it over and inside again to grab it with the rivet. Thanks for the videos very useful.
Cody you need a body work finish hammer .. they have a double head , square (flat faced) and round (slight curved face), for work like you did a ball peen has a round face there fore will leave marks that a flat faced body hammer is less likely to do.
Great video Mr Wranglerstar!
My dad used to do something similar for our old splitting mauls & axes when my brothers & I were old enough to cut wood in the bush with him. He used mechanics wire & double wrapped it real tight from about 6" out right tight to the head & back.
I learned a tip from a man we used to call the axe handle king of Muskoka.
He used 3 1/2 inch galvanized framing nails for rivets with a 3/16 hole on wooden handled implements, worked like a charm.
When pinning something like that, you should drill the hole in the handle a couple millimeters offset (in this case, offset toward the back of the handle) so that as you press the pin in, it pulls the collar tight to the handle.
Good comment. Was hoping you’d have some videos up my guy!! Feel free to give me some pointers as well on my vids
Just wanted you to know that you've inspired how I work on my wood projects lately. I'm making a few Christmas gifts out of resawn reclaimed timbers and taking my time to do it right. It feels good and the finished product is much more satisfying. Thanks!
A few ideas:
1.For cutting the material to wrap handle: Use a piece of bristle paper; thin but ridged using the same scribe like you did. You wrap, trim, and fit it each time just as you did the metal until perfect, then you have a pattern w/out maring your handle. I've used this for making leather sheaths and similar projects as yours; metals, leather, polymers.
2. I think anyone doing a project like this understands that drilling or adding a fastener compromises the handle. A couple knife makers I know use some nearly indestructible epoxies that you can't even burn them off the blade. An prior commenter mentioned this and I would like to second that idea using a ridged polymer (Kevlar, nylon), or a heavy treated rawhide.
Your vision, mission, or ministry... I'm not sure what you label your show as... Is an inspiration in all facets of life and appreciate what you and your family are doing.
hey wranglerstar I had no idea there were so many experts on a givin subject until I started reading comments on your videos. I commend you, I dont know how you do it. keep up the good work brother.
Nice idea with the collar.
Just figured out how I'll be doing my axe.
Make a template with a paper bag.
Trace it on an old stainless steel sink.
Cut the steel with a dremmel.
Coat the handle area and steel with rubber cement.
Let it dry out and become tacky.
Wrap the steel around the handle.
Permanent bond.
Repeat rubber cementing steps with Leather over Steel.
Thanks for another excellent video.
Wranglerstar, PLEASE use some light gloves - those cut edges are very sharp. They also enable you to hold the part a bit more securely. As for getting old - this year I had cataracts removed from my very near-sighted eyeballs - took about 7-8 minutes per eye, and the inserted lenses enabled me to have perfect vision for the first time in my life. Wonderful! The surgeon was a target shooter like me, and made my right eye a bit more acute then the left - 20/15 in right, 20/20 in left, so I can see the "X" a lot sharper.UT - my aged eyes no longer flex as do younger ones, so I have "half-eye" reading glasses. One drawback for me is that my regular glasses also served as safety glasses, so now I have an added bit of equipment. As a gunsmith - the magnification of the reading glasses helps immensely. many thanks for all your so very informative videos.
I use some nice thick nylon string wrapped a couple of layers thick just below the head of my maul. Simple to apply, works a treat and is easy to replace when it gets damaged. I would think it would also absorb more of the power of a missed strike than sheet metal would.
I know you'll keep us posted on the result. I'm sure there are many ways to accomplish this task, but I like that you did it the way you decided. Sometimes you just have to dig in and work the problem otherwise the problem works you. Thanks for taking us along for the build, Cody.
A heat gun and a piece of old black plastic water pipe work really well also.
I've used wide-diameter electrical heat-shrink tubing for my framing hammers and that does a pretty good job as well. Combine that on an axe handle with a leather overstrike protector (or water pipe as you say) to add some cushioning and your handle will be pretty much impregnable.
Ive wrapped em in baling twine and hit em with a heat gun. it will fray some if you over strike but hit it with the heat gun again at the end of the day and it'll be fine.
Fiberglass and resin work really well. You can sand it down when you're done and won't hardly notice it's there. It's pretty strong too.
I've been doing this for years and can say it does work, (when compared to no protector at all). Mine have never been as pretty, but I put some inner tube material under the metal as a shock absorber. I fasten the metal on the back with small pan-head screws so no big hole through the hickory.
love the finished product, I put heavy mechanics wire wrapped very tightly and tapped each wrap to the contours of the axe head as I went with a blunt cold chisel. I held each end in position with a very small nail with a head big enough to wrap the wire around before I drove it all the way home. the starting point gets buried under the wire leaving only the end opposite the head visible.
Much easier and just as strong. I will do this
I like it how it is, with out the radius. It complements nicely with the geometric and linear design of the head. Great job in my opinion!
We have a husqvarna rifle with the same symbol 6.5x55 caliber. Great video glad you finally got a husqvarna axe to review.
Just got back from trouble shooting my snowblower. Time for some Wranglerstar therapy to get me through the night. Much healthier than drinking.
really enjoy your videos.it has always been a rite of passage into manhood to make or repair working tools.....ax, maul.shovel etc...in many cultures...mine being Scottish and Norwegian...that said,lol.my profession is mechanic.when I'm trying to save a handle on a hammer we use wraps of copper wire I'm going to try that and your collar idea on a couple axes I'm fixing up. the old stuff is always better to fix then go buy a new cheap version. keep up the great videos and thanx
Made one many years a go. But how I did it was first made an thick paper template. Then transferred it to metal sheet. After words. Tig weld the back side. heated up the metal and put it on the wooden handle. Just like you do it with wooden wheels.
Interesting to se you made it this way. Always nice to se people doing things in a different way :)
I think I would have opted to epoxy the guard onto the handle then wrap it with a bungee or other elastic until it set then file the excess. I'm afraid whatever you gained by the guard was lost with the rivet hole.
GettingSquaredAway I disagree. The hole is very small but we will soon see. You may be right. I don't like this handle much anyway.
wranglerstar You know what they say, don't gamble more than you can afford to lose. If you don't like the handle much anyway and it does break, you can make a handle you do like.
wranglerstar I suggest using the ball end of your ball peen for peening a rivet it will spread more.
Also if you check out my post on the first section there is the way that the guys do it for sledge hammers in a diesel shop.
i think he should have epoxied the rivet so it would bind the wood together.
ironlionkalo I agree, but i think the bolt was a tad overkill. I would use PE plastic to protect that, it could be welded on and with no fasteners ;)
I found that using Marine Silicone works on all types of projects and fills in the gaps and keeps the water out. Also it provides a "shock guard" for some items. Just put any kind of dish soap on your fingers and spread it where you want and easy clean up.
Thanks for posting another great video.
Years ago my father welded a piece of angle to the head of the maul to serve the same purpose. He split wood for years with the same handle and I still have it today.
I have used discarded bicycle innertubes as a protection and even on semi cracked handle with success. Wrapping. Like the paracord technique, but it does not require soaking or drying - wrap it tight and get cutting.
+ᏳᏫᏜᏡᎦᏈᏜᏫᏳ Hmm, bicycle innertube. Nice idea. I can also protect other stuff with that. Thanks for the tip.
+ᏳᏫᏜᏡᎦᏈᏜᏫᏳ I agree with this approach.
I have always used strips of my old bike inner tubes (the ones with too many pin hole leaks to be worth patching) as my go-to protect-all solution as well as my quick grip-making solution (using thinner strips)for just about everything. I'm seeing in the comments here that a bunch of other people have realized just how versatile inner tube rubber can be, as well.
I've made quite a few soft rubber woodworking mallets by wrapping inner tube strips around some of my wooden mallets until there's a good 1/4"-3/8"+ of material. I never glue or tape my wraps at all, I simply slip a bit of the corner of the end under one of the loops that came just before the end and that's usually enough to keep everything tight and snug for my needs. It's also just as easy to put the end right under and through the previous loop/ wrap-around then pull out any slack to make the tension even greater.
Inner tube works a treat.
All my axes have been wrapped in rubber
I have several JM2CW comments / suggestions (constructive criticism) for future use. 1) If you can't clamp it down to prevent things from moving, set the condition up as it will be used and drill it as a unit - don't drill on a broom stick and then go back to the axe handle as it's highly unlikely to get the entrance and exit holes to line up. That's why there was a bit of a gap between plate and axehead on the one side (the pin "found" the rear hole and tweaked the plate to align). 2) Make a small countersink (doesn't need to be excessive) and peen the material into the countersink recess to prevent the "rivet" from dislodging. 3) You didn't so much as need a bigger hammer just use the peen end of the hammer not the conventional head. 4) A lot of thought is needed about how the forces are going to be distributed from impact into metal plate carried thru plate and wood of axe handle and transfered into "rivet" and dispersed thru it all (maybe now the bolt will do the worst damage). 5) It will make it look nicer but probably better leaving the plate off so any damage isn't concealed. (the plate could get a little banged up looking but there might be a serious crack in the wood maybe now in 2 areas, the impact zone and thru the bolt hole that can't now be seen). Overall though nicely done. I'm currently working on a similar project to repair broken wooden pruning lopper handle using thinwall EMT as "side plate" and same techniques.
Great idea and video. Thanks for posting. Just a tip for next time scribing. Don't rotate scribe as you follow the curve. Keep the scribe parallel to the axe handle. That is why you had gaps on either sides.
Thats really nice! I like that.
I think I would probably make a 'template' out of paper which would allow me to make all of the radius' perfect. Then I would trace that template directly to the sheet metal. The stretching can be mitigated by forming it and then filing the excess. Then you have a truly custom and sturdy fit.
I have often thought of wrapping my maul handle. After watching your video I think I will try wrapping it with the old fashioned black rubber bungee cords near the head. Omitting the stock "s" hooks and using a heavy zip tie or wire to fasten it. Thanks for the inspiration :)
I usually wrap the section you put a collar on in paracord, it is not a permanent solution by any means, but it has gotten the job done this far.
One little point....Use masking tape to follow the curves under the head. The next pass half way and so on until you are just wrapping in a straight line.. Cut the tape with a utility knife and peal it off the handle in one big pc.. Stick it to the sheet steel and cut to the pattern made by the tape. I know I didn't explain very well but do the first step and you'll see where I was going..
Very nice. Will be a fine splitter!! Can't wait for the demo vid.
"I really don't mind getting old. There's a peace and contentment that comes with it that I've never experienced before."
That's one of the best things I've ever heard.
Kydex or any thermo-form plastic works great as well. It's light and very durable especially the thicker stuff.
Great job! Another idea is to leave some extra material on the back side of the axe. Enough to over lap and then pop two brad tacks down through both layers. Just a thought. If your afraid of it still moving, then just stick a couple of tacks in the front as well. Also I use snips like those everyday, they can cut a very small radius if you're use to them. Wiss and Bennett make the best snips. Not taking anything from the job you done. Just some suggestions. As I said before, great job. You are a very crafty man and I like the fact that you get your son involves with some of your projects. Start them off while they are still young and they will carry on the skills for generations. Cheers and God bless.
nice, when you were cutting the radius it might help to first cut some relief cuts in the sheet metal, can't wait to see how it works out
snap on. Every honesteaders hammer set. Good choice in tools
I made a leather collar for the exact same reason, my method was to wrap the area in plastic wrap a few times to build a durable cover.
Then paper mache style put on duct tape to fortify it.
I trimmed it around the axe head, and what shape I wanted it to have
Then cut it off the hand the result was a very funky looking piece of leather that fit perfectly. I have a picture if you like.
It looks very nice and functionality is most important in my book great video
for not being a sheet metal worker you did a great job!
thanks for the idea Wranglerstar. I took inspiration and simply overlapped the tin on the back and put two screws in it. Too bad i didn't figure this one out by myself. My splitting axe was at its fourth handle!!!
Nice work. Another option is rawhide. It's tough, super easy-to-use and good longevity.
I like it looks like it will work good. Can't weight too see it in action. Another great video cody
if you have a small shape to cut out like this the easiest way to do it is to take a zip cut 1/8th cutting blade and cut directly in to the line making several small strips then cutting it from the side taking out the small strips as you go. the strips falling away make space for your cutting blade to cut off the next strip.
thats how we do it at my shop for one off projects like this.
cheers and great channel.
Never thought of using sheet metal, I've done a whipping using light cordage, and one even with wire, the sheet looks awesome!
Cody i recently wrapped the top of my axe handle in sanre wire it offers great protection and comes in handy
snare wire sorry
This is a awesome channel. Its just interesting how you make things and ive learned alot. you remind me alot of my dad but on youtube. you both have a wealth of knowledge that youve learned over the years and you know to make/fix things thats so interesting to me.
That was good placement for the pin. The handle is like a beam in that it's primary loading is bending. The back of the handle is in compression when chopping, so the hole for the pin does not weaken it. It would be okay even in the center, but your placement looks spot-on best to me.
My grandfather did something very similar. He did a few things differently was the riveting was moved back so the rivet heads wasn't at the widest point. He used two rivets one was a quarter inch from the lowest part of the head the second was down in line with the first. He would mark the holes on the handle drill the holes a shade back. The shape was the same as yours.
Thank you Sam
My grandfather used bailing wire wrapped very carefully starting and ending with a hole just big enough to tuck the wire into.
Looks beautiful honestly
Good job as always Cody. I all ways enjoy watching vids like this I always learn something new .God bless.
You know your a perfectionist when you make one of these and it comes out super nice and the first words out of your mouth are.... " Its not perfect... but the next one will be better"... You have a disease :P
I have a Husqvarna Hatchet, and found out about the logo being a gunsight when I was trying to find out who made it. I am pretty sure mine is one of the first run of Hultafors Axes that Husquvarna used just based on the design, but I can't be sure. They originally used Wetterlings seconds, then switched to Hultafors, and have gone through a few different designs since then.
while I am not religious I really enjoy your videos. your way of life and living day to day is amazing and it is amazing seeing you guys come together as a family and work on projects together.
keep making vids!!
When working with any kind of sheet metal, it is best to make a mandrel slightly smaller but the same profile as the finished object cut the metal to the size required but form it on the smaller mandrel. then when you fit it to the actual handle use the shot mallet to ease the profile out to the exact shape.
BTW absolutely love watching the doings of your homestead god bless your house and every one under the roof.
PS Get your self a Dremel tool mains powered type and all the attachments you will work wonders with it.
Neat idea I'm going to try it on a Collins dual bit axe I have! I work with sheet metal daily so it should come out proper
That's interesting. Many years using something like that, but crafted from soft and fat material like track rubber(earlier) or sole polyurethane(last two years, lightweight and strength, thickness about 5mm). In theory they give best protection cause of longer breaking distance. Maby hikory much harder and steel better fit for this, I use tenacious birch handles and steel don't fit for them cause they may be damaged under the protection.
With best best regards from Siberia!
P.S And sorry for my rude english - I use it mainly for liscening and reading)
Thank you
at 3:07 u say u "dont mind getting older their is peace and contentment that comes with it". i just mentioned that same sentiment with someone at a BBQ.. pretty crazy.. anyway great vids cody!
Good job for a first time keep up the good work
I like it. I have whipped handles using fine diameter electric fencing wire. That works OK, and requires just a tiny hole or two in the handle.
I love your channel, very simple.
Cody, this is a great idea, and you do great work, as always. A couple problems, though:
1.) that thin sheet metal you're using will still dent and damage the wood underneath during a bad overstrike; or even during splitting, when the log doesn't split in a straight line with the axe/maul head, and you have some of the log impinge upon the handle area.
2.) I don't like the idea of drilling holes through the handle of a "strong impact" tool like an axe, maul, or sledge. A hookaroon or pickaroon, yes (these are mainly pulling tools). But not a tool that receives a strong impact on its head. Reason: even with hickory, the jarring impact, or the sudden "stop" after a strong hit, tends to put stress on the rivet or roll-pin, and this puts "parting stress" in the hole. In other words, the rivet or pin acts as a prybar to pull the wood fibers apart. It won't happen immediately, of course, but it will happen over time. Once you drill a hole in a handle and you separate the wood fibers like that, you can't "take it back" -- you can't undo the damage. I would've rather seen a buckle type of fastener that can be replaced.
For these reasons, I personally am more fond of using a good polypropylene or nylon rope wrap that is durable; especially poly rope -- it take strong impacts without the fibers separating. A rope wrap is soft enough that it will absorb most of the impact, and only transfer "pressure" type of forces against the handle (pressure forces, not impact forces). And it's easily replaceable and won't damage the handle. I'm ex-Navy, so I have a plethora of wrapping and knotting techniques at my disposal. But I mainly use what's called a "spiral hitch" for the wrap technique around the handle under the head. You can find a good video on how to do a spiral hitch here on the 'Tube. One I recommend is this one: Spiral hitched paracord handle ("Spiral hitched paracord handle" by PaleSpruce). The nice thing about the spiral hitch is that each wrap around the handle interlocks with the previous, and also gives -- as its name implies -- a spiraling buttress that is easy to grip (especially with gloves). In determining whether to start the wrap from the head and work down the handle, or from about 4-to-6 inches on the handle behind the head and work to the head, I choose the latter. (I.e. start from the thinnest diameter of the handle, and work your way up to the thickest, so the increasing incline causes each wrap to squeeze against the previous wrap). If you use poly rope, you can seal and lock the ends of the rope into itself with a small flame (butane lighter). A spiral-hitched wrap is extremely durable, doesn't transfer the impact of an overstrike to the handle like denting sheet metal would (denting sheet metal transfers that injury right through to the wood -- you'll see), and is easily replaced in case repeated overstrikes (over time) cause the rope to finally fail. I can re-do a wrap in the field, in about 5 minutes from start of the wrap, to sealing and locking the two ends of the rope with a lighter. No kidding.
Give it a try. PM me if you have any questions, or would like to see pics on what the final product looks like.
wow, thx for this, underrated comment
I use an old bicycle tire, cut about 4 to 6 inches and screw it on the handle. It actually takes out the vibration of the over strike.
I use steel-belted radial tire cut with a hacksaw and attached to the handle with heavy gauge fencing wire. It's not cosmetically pretty but it works a treat!
Aircraft mechanic sheet metal tip for 'ya Cody: When you make your cuts, not allow the tips to come together in the sheet metal. It will prevent the metal from distorting where they do. Nice job, and a neat idea. Gonna have to give this a try on my handled wood destroyers :-)
That turned out really nice.
I agree with making the radius and bringing the front down further.
Great idea and I just got an old 8lb mall head too.what length handle would you suggest?
I like the collar idea, I will use it for sure.
You should overlap that seam on the back (poll?) end of the maul and spot weld the seam shut or something. Seems like if you miss when hitting a wedge or something that seam will open up. Your my favorite person on TH-cam. Well... I take that back. After the thousands and thousands of girls on TH-cam.. Your my favorite.. After them. Haha. Keep the vids coming!
Looks great. You might try out some offsets snips. they move the metal out of the way for you and help you cut a tighter radius.
Hi Wranglerstar. I wanted to ask if you could make some videos on basic metall working skills like welding or using a cutting torch - maybe even on something like an angle grinder (I know for you country guys it's standard, but when you grow up without such things it's not). Or would you recommend to get someone to teach you this kind of stuff while standing next to you? Many of this stuff looks quite dangerous to me (as someone with no experience in that field).
For cutting the sheet metal a nibbler might be what you want. Also they make aviation snips that have a right or left hand curve built into them.
You listed all of your tools except that nice looking compass that you used. Who makes it?
I take a strip of rubber cut from an old car tire and put it lengthwise up the front of the top 2-3 inches of the handle, then duct tape it on. Not clean looking but it does the job.
For a maul, the handle is round enough to get some flexible rubber hose of the right size and just cut a piece a couple inches long and run it up the handle and into place just below the head.
You should give us a complete tour of the homestead please like this if you agree I'm very curious of what your property looks like
Great idea and looks super neat
Out of curiosity, do you think a thick piece of leather would work?
That is a really nice job. A few months ago, I was wondering what I could do with my Scand Forest Axe. I had just put a big divot in it. I sanded it out and linseeded it. But I know I'm going to bugger it up again. :)
i know you hate plastic / rubber handled things, buy im teaching my roomate how to split wood and well lets just say he misses allot lol,.and im certanly not immune to missing aswell. after about 2 maul handles broke in a week, i did some reserch and came upon the wilton bash maul.
its got 6 hardened steel rods encaseed in a hardish rubber handle, i was already somewhat familiar with their sledgehammers of the same design because a friend of mine who workes in a steel mill said they use them there and they are totally indistructable.
they are pricey yes but man is it a beast! i got the 8lb one altho its actually around 14# with the handle (the rods add allot of weight).
it did need to be reprofiled out of the box but it didnt take long with an angle grinder and flap disk and my roomate squirting water on it to cool it.
no its not the most efficiant tool since allot of the weight is in the handle and not in the head.where it can do work, but man is it tough and it certanly goes through wood like no other maul ive owned. its been solidly overstruck multixple times, full weight right on the handle, and you cant even tell anything happened,.it has absolutely no damage whatsoever.
If you overlap the edges of the sheet metal a lil you can drill and pin the edges to hold them down
Might have a easier time cutting that sheet metal with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. Just a thought. I do like just using hand tools myself, though.
I usually weld a piece of V metal profile 3mm thick, 3cm wide and about 10cm long in front of the handle, doesnt untamper the axe as the heat is local, works very well, no holes to weaken the handle. Tried putting bolt trough handle but didnt work as well, no need for bolt as the axe head stays on from wedge
The collars I saws at the gransforsbruk site seem to be recessed into the handle wood ... which was my first thought watching you make it. Of course you're trying to retro-fit onto an existing handle. But, assuming the collar worked well for you, when you make handles in the future, you should design it so the collar is recessed level with the rest of the wood. in fact, I wonder whether having it go right into the axe hole might help.
Mind you, I'm making this up without any expertise, so I may be spouting garbage.
Now that you have used it for a while did it make a difference and would you have done it again?
I used some heavy duty rubber padding, about .5cm in thickness warped in ducktape. Seems to do the same thing thou the tape do wear off quickly but then again, ducktape dirt cheap in my local store so I don't worry too much.
Still have this axe in 2017? haven't seen it, but is this still a method you use?
I see that axe has a circular step wedge? Is there a benefit to those above normal ones?
Wranglerstar, I think you had such awkward trouble with the file because you're using it like a rasp. Try lifting up on the backstroke to keep from snagging. (this also helps keep your file sharper for longer as backstroking on a non-crossed file dulls it very quickly.
you can always heat up the end of the pin with a Hand torch and then flatten it with a hammer
looks good lots of work. what i have done over the years is just rap a bunch of tape around the base of the handle. good tape 3M super 33 or duck tape its not pretty but it works. tape get ripped up remove and put new tape on. i have saved lots of 4 pound hammer handles over the years
Great thought and technique. One question, the back seems loose. Could you have overlapped the sheet metal and secure?
You do a great job on getting everything in frame of the camera! Although you should turn down the background music just a little. But you do a good job narrating the video! Great voice!
Can you make a collar like that using really thick leather?
when you're sliding the metal on and off to fit it, scratching the finish, I die a little inside. Can't be avoided and can be refinished, but still.
Great video, I bought the Stihl Pro Forestry that comes with the overstrike already on it, love it.
i am a very loyal viewer and i really like and appreciate your videos, however if i may mention something that i noticed about this video , i love the idea and i always thought that the wood handel needed such a support, what i think would be a good idea is if you applied some epoxy/any glue or what so ever under the metal sheet to better hold it in place in addition the back side ( where the two ends of the sheet are supposed to meet) that area is somewhat dangerous , i noticed that you slide your hand along the full shaft when u swing these two edges may cut your finger or even when the axe is hanging around in ur tools area another tool may bend that part out as the dont meet perfectly , nor is there anything to prevent them from hooking up into something
Hello wranglerstar. I have the same axe as a hultafors. I have found it to be an excellent splitting axe if you put the speed into it. I have been considering a similar guard for a while but was going to do it in leather. However I think yours looks excellent and probably more sturdy. You will have to let us know how it works out for you.
After seeing people make sinew backed bows i wonder if that could be a good material for this. I've never tried it myself but it seems like it could be a good natural shock absorber that also tightens up around the wood once it dries, which i assume is better for structural integrity then rivets.
I would probably just duct tape some EVA plastic or an old garden hose onto the handle. But you seem to have an aversion against everything that isn't iron, wood or oil so... sinew.
Very nice sir. I think I´ll do the same. Except maybe i´ll leave in the back one side of tin longer so I can wrap it over and inside again to grab it with the rivet. Thanks for the videos very useful.
that is what i was thinking. a half inch lap and then two pop rivets. you would have 2 smaller diameter shallow holes in the wood but not a thru hole
Cody you need a body work finish hammer .. they have a double head , square (flat faced) and round (slight curved face), for work like you did a ball peen has a round face there fore will leave marks that a flat faced body hammer is less likely to do.
Great job Cody, it looks very well done. What's the song in the beginning?
I didn't understand the compass trick. I couldn't tell what you were doing. You go to the longest point, then you moved the compass pivot? Thanks.
This is so clever. Can you clean a axe head with mineral spirits, or could you use paint thinner? I don't have kerosene.
great cody i. just keep watttching the videos as. i find them