Was WranglerStar Wrong? Are Plastic Handles Actually Better than Wood?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ธ.ค. 2021
- This is just my opinion. I’m willing to change it. Convince me…or don’t. It’s obviously not that important in the grand scheme of things. So be nice, please. I was just having a bit of fun with this one. Thanks
Vintage Axe Hoarder: • Video
-Very genuine and warm personality. Makes gorgeous custom handles.
Skinny Bear & The Dogs: • Back at it - warm up
-I just subscribed, but if you like Kurt S Channel you’ll like this. It’s a crime these guys don’t get more attention for their work. The cinematography is brilliant!
Brian2Bears: • My comments on Fiskars...
So I didn’t remember, but Brian also made a similar comment and also has a TH-cam Channel. He has also made a response video, which is well-spoken and definitely worth watching and taking into consideration. - บันเทิง
Ive always talked shit about fiskars or plastic handle axes... but after trying a fiskars, i fell in love honestly... splits like mad and never gets stuck in the wood... my little 28" fiskars helped me split big 25"-30" rounds with relative ease. Non of my axes could split them rounds without great effort. The fiskars made it so much easier. I love the profile for splitting.
Yea me too, I’ve actually preferred my Fiskars splitting maul over my forged steel maul. It massacres logs for dinner lol
That’s big of you to say. A major mark of maturity in my book is being able to change your mind when as you gather more data and experience over time. It’s easy to just fall into line and repeat conventional wisdom. We’ve all done it. I’m constantly on the lookout for it, both in others and myself. It’s usually a big red flag to stop and reevaluate what’s being said and why. As for the geometry of this axe…it’s a big wedge. Enough said. She’ll bust wood and not get stick badly. Thanks for sharing.
@@KevinsDisobedience well said brother! I agree 100%
@@KevinsDisobedience also the fiskars seem to have a slight concave profile like a granfors bruks splitting axe. I think ben just posted a video on it.
It really seems to help with sticking and whatever they coat their steele with makes it fall out of the wood. Which i love
Links to these guy’s channels in the description. Definitely worth checking out. Hope to get some conversation going and some ideas for a plausible testing scenario. I never really noticed handle shock before my injury this year. Now I’m more sensitive to it. So I think I’ll be experimenting more with different types of wood as well. Any suggestions, I’m all ears. Thanks.
I feel it in my shoulder joints. I’ve been playing with balance to weight ratios. Balance is key. One interesting tidbit. My tennis elbow was eliminated by two things with the hammer. One handle choice as stated above and the second thing was moving my thumb from the top of the handle to the side. Allowed for a more relaxed swing, and (my belief) a redirect of the shockwave through my hand. I had 6 shots back in the day. None in the last 15 years. It’s my believe that there is a way to sidestep the shockwave with technique. Just a hunch.
Thank you very much Mr. Kevin, I did not expect this but I am honoured. There is a link in my description to this video sir...
Interesting ideas. I think it’s high time I get a shot and see if it helps.
I own and use a fiskars x25 for splitting firewood. I started out using the ax without wearing gloves and found that I was getting tennis elbow from it. I now wear gloves and this mitigates any issues with the vibrations being generated from splitting wood.
Interesting, I always wear gloves when splitting, not always when chopping.
@@KevinsDisobedience I have tried to split the rounds when they are lying on the ground but I do have a tendency of having glancing blows every once in a while. Yesterday in fact I was using a fiskars x17 to split some dried ash and I had a bad strike and I nearly clipped my right leg. I am not a fan of shorter handles on my axes. I find that the handle on the x25 is just right for me.
Splitting will scuff and rough up a wooden handle I don't care how good you are. When I have to do a day's splitting my number one priority is can I use this tool all day. A nice comfortable straight handle with a slight curve before the swell is ideal. Shock doesn't matter unless you're splitting hard big rounds like beach. Those fiskers are bloody brilliant! Strong handles that take a beating and a well designed. You can leave it outside in all weathers and not worry about the head getting loose. I've used one for weeks at a time and shock wasn't a problem. I do prefer a longer handle however 34 to 36 inches. Shock is also less with a longer handle. I hate big splitting mauls, nothing worse than one bouncing off of the rounds. I'm lazy and only spilt easy timber.
I’m glad you took the time to share your experience, Simon. Because when you split at work you probably split more than most people do in a day, and working with an axe all day will tell you more than these short spurts. And good point about leaving it outside and not worrying about changes in weather. I grew up splitting with a 34” handle (with this 4lb CT actually), but ever since I’ve started chopping anything over 32” feels like a brick on a wet noodle lol. That isn’t to say I would or couldn’t very quickly get familiar with it again. Amen to most mauls sucking bollocks. There was a 8lber knocking about the farm, hung on a round sledge hammer handle, when I was a kid, and I absolutely despised it. You beat your guts out with that thing because it would never penetrate the wood. Didn’t help that it was never sharpened at all. Basically busting rounds with sheer force. I like lazy splitting to. More fun. I save the gnarly ones for the power axe. 🤷♂️
What I have noticed, when busting big rounds, the only axe I dont get shock from is the isocore 8lb fiskars. Normal size splitting, I dont notice anything from any axe or maul with the exception of the "hook" fans foot on the small fiskars. It aggravates my pinky a bit. I will say, when a handle is too thick, I cant control my swing.
Good point about the size of the round. And I, too, have a love hate relationship with that hook. I would hate something like that on a chopping axe, but I typically wear gloves when I split so I don’t notice it that much. But I have had it sting my pinky before, I’ll admit that. Good info. Let’s keep it going guys…
@@KevinsDisobedience I just wish it wasnt so steep. Otherwise, it's a perfect splitter
Beautiful opening shot with perfect music. Your beard still cracks me up. I have nothing new to add to the handle material shock question or how to test it. Wonder if SkillCult would have ideas?
Thanks for noticing. I try and make it entertaining for you guys. Not sure what SkillCult thinks about shock, but I do know that he uses a fiberglass maul to split his winters wood. Not that his opinion makes it true anymore than WranglerStars, but Steven’s carries more weight in my book.
@@KevinsDisobedience I was mostly thinking about how to test/quantify the handle shock question and remembered Steven's chalk board, physics, formulas and other cool stuff.
Love the humor of the video, I’m glad you readdressed the question.
I was aware of wranglerstar’s video and his complains prior to you mentioning it. Like you, I try to think objectively and find things out for myself. Here is a bit of info regarding my experience and their arguments.
1: Wood handles of the same dimensions of hollow fiberglass are 100% worse when it comes to shock. There is no question. I believe this is where the confusion might have started. My previous statement about wood handles giving less shock was under the assumption that I am using a thin wood handle opposed to the stock fiskars handle.
2: I always make sure that my handles are thinner or as thin as the width of the axe head. This is not only for comfort but so that I’m not busting/scraping up the sides of my handles. This goes for both my felling and splitting axes.
3: I do not believe that it is the material of the handle as much as it is the shape that causes my discomfort. While fiskars fulfill my requirement of the axe handle being narrower than the head, they are still very wide. When splitting wood you need to have a good grip on the axe, especially with slippery fiberglass and gloves. The fiskars have a very wide tube shaped handle that does not allow the hand to close around it comfortably. Having a handle that fills my palms like this puts a lot of pressure on the nerves of my inner wrist. When I have a more-closed grip, the tendons aren’t as strained and I don’t get the irritation that might be attributed to what I’m calling “shock.”
For example: Think of using fat grips on dumbbells at the gym and how much they inflame your wrists and forearms from just a short period of use compared to just using the dumbbells without them. I see the fiskars handle shape to give off the same effect. This large grip, having more tension on the nerves and tendons, is likely the reason why I feel more vibration from the fiskars handles. With a thinner wooden handle, my grip can be more relaxed so that I do not take on the full impact of the vibration. Whether it is ‘shock’’ or not, I think this constant vibration with a more tensed grip is the culprit.
I get the same issue with a splitting maul handle. I always knock off the sides with a rasp to make the sides flat. I can close my hands around it more comfortably, thus reducing the ache in my wrists.
4: The shock feels different from a wood handle to a hollow fiberglass one. The shock from the wood is immediate and short lived, whereas the fiberglass feels as though it is dulled in intensity but it’s vibration carries out longer. This observation should be noted in regards to my previous point.
Conclusion: While fiberglass itself doesn’t necessarily transfer more shock, I believe that the ergonomics of a large rounded grip, made worse by the thickness of wearing gloves, puts unnecessary strain on the wrists and allows for easier transfer of shock- a shock that feels dull, hollow, and drawn out to where you might not notice it the first time, but by the end of the day you will feel it’s effect.
Interesting argument. There’s no doubt, at least from me, that thinner handles are more comfortable, and while I do wish Fiskars would make a thinner version of this axe, I don’t really find it to be a big issue when splitting, but then I don’t split for long periods of time for it to really make a difference. Another good comparison about dumbell bars. If it was more comfortable to hold something thick and round if you have massive hands, then weight lifters would want something much larger in diameter. They don’t. Case closed on that. But I’m still curious as to whether wood is superior to plastic in transmuting shock into the body. I’m going to see if I can find some material science papers on the subject.
@@KevinsDisobedience I’m interested to see what you find. While fiberglass handles have been around for awhile, the fiskars hollow handles have not. Finding research on this topic might prove difficult. After all, we’ve heard how fiskars explains it lol.
If you can’t find any sound evidence I suggest looking into what people have said about sledge and hammer handles. These are tools that people still use pretty regularly. This should at least avoid the wranglerstar bias.
Its so true that we can adopt a point of view just by listening to someone else. It was definitely the case with me and my thoughts on fiberglass handles till now as I've never actual swung one. There does seem to be some advantages to them that makes a lot of practical sense. I would definitely consider one if I'm ever in the market. On a side note, I ordered a stock GBA replacement handle for the American felling axe head I got recently. When it arrived I took one look at it and immediately hafted it to my dedicated splitting axe. That thing was a club.
That’s big of you to say. A mark of maturity to be able to admit that. There’s definitely a lot of advantages, but there’s disadvantages too. They’re thick and you can’t do anything about that. They’re also not replaceable. If they break you’ve got to get a new one; whereas, my 4lb CT has been passed down from Granddad. And yes, GB is almost as bad as Oxhead. Nice piece of lumber, but you almost have to reduce it by half. Thanks for commenting as always. Cheers.
For hammers I've found that the wood in the handles expands and contracts with the humidity such that the heads are loose whenever I go to use them and the job of tightening the head gets added to the task list first, where fiberglass handles are always ready to start pounding on stuff.
Yep, no worrying about the Fiskars. It’s always up to the task.
It’s all about the comfort for my preference. My main 4.5 lb tassie that I’ve split many cords of Doug Fir with has a “dangerously” thin Killinger (32”) handle on it. I’m careful to a point, but credit the drifter(BBR) with my above average skills. Beside the sap it still looks new. I use my Stihl Oxhead splitting axe for the big big rounds and when I’m just going berserk. If berserking is your style than a Fiskars or thicker handle should be used. Hey Kevin, have you ever tried one of Liam Hoffman’s handles? I put a HB tassie on one of his 32” handles and it’s a beautiful beast. Little thicker and different curve but a really nice handle.
Yeah, I’m a berserker when I split. I just want to hit the round and then hit it again wherever it lies. The green Michigan pattern is actually hung on a Liam Hoffman handle, thinned, and cut shorter with a palm swell laminated on it. Beautiful piece of lumber, but I don’t care for that curvy fawns foot pattern.
What would be the best weight on the head of the axe for camp shores.
2.5-3lbs is perfect.
@@KevinsDisobedience I was looking @ the Collins 2 1/4lb Boys axe, what do you think.
I found that with the Husqvarna S2800 plastic handle it really does make my elbows/wrists hurt more than a thinner wooden handle. That being said most of what i use axes for is pounding wedges, for splitting i don't really notice any difference
I’ve never used the Husky, but I agree splitting isn’t really a big deal unless you’re beating your brains out on some big gnarly rounds.
All I do is break Hickory handles because I'm splitting Hickory. I can make a guard for my 35" & 36" handles and it's not going to matter. If you miss on knotty hardwood, you're going to snap your axe. If you know how to re-hang your axe, and you don't mind buying or making new handles, go wood. If you're lacking time and tools, go Fiberglas.
Having both is a good idea. But I most split with fiber glass these days
@@KevinsDisobedience Definitely. My last two purchases are the $22 2.5 lb 28” Green Works Axe at Tractor Supply, and the Fiberglas double bit by Pittsburgh Tools at Harbor Freight for $24. Both these Axes are amazing for the money. I also have the 36” 4.5 lb Hickory Axe from HF, which I break the handle on regularly, and the 2.25 hickory Hatchet which I love.
Great vid Kevin and some cool discussion from everyone in the "doobly doo". Good job on the shout outs too, all good blokes. My 2 cents on the handle thing.. the only synthetic I've used is a Hart 8lb splitter, a plastic husky (awesome) and a cheap fibreglass P.O.S I bought on the way to a camping trip (quickly broken trying to split red gum), so can't offer much opinion on them. The rubber/glass Hart is okay as a beater, but I was surprised by how good the plastic husky was. Not my preferred feel but useable and super tough. As far a wood goes I reckon users grip and technique has at least as much to do with shock/pain as handle design. I once stupidly chopped some seasoned ironbark with a club handled 5lb tassie and got tennis elbow for a week. Few weeks later I finished the job with the plastic husky no problems. Definitely prefer wood for lots of reasons but the synthetic has a place for sure.
Oh yeah good to see your country mate again😁
I pretty much feel the same way. Prefer wood for the feel, look and ability to customize. Prefer plastic to get work done and not worry about my axe. You broke the Husky? That’s a robust axe. Just like the Fiskars really.
Hehehe
@@KevinsDisobedience nah the huskys still goin strong, I got a few for the scout kids, the 1.4kg/70cm and 2 hatchets, the kids beat the crap out of em and all they need is the odd file or stone for a touch-up and back at it again. If I were still doing lots of forestry or on a saw crew, the plastic husky would be the pick.
For some reason it’s hard to find the STIHLs in the states.
I just prefer wood handles because they are wood and I made the handle and hung the head. Therefore it’s my axe. And I enjoy that experience using the tool more than with an axe bought from a store. I know that isn’t a good reason. But it’s the reason I use wood handles. I doubt very many people split enough wood to notice the difference in shock as long as they are using the appropriate tool and a reasonably shaped handle.
Good enough reason for me. But with tendon issues, it’s starting to matter to me more and more. And true, most people don’t heat they’re homes with wood anymore, and those that do don’t split it all with an axe.
Thanks for the shoutout! I can definitely agree with you. Thick wood handles transfer just as much, if not more, shock into your hands as the fiskars handles. One handle that immediately comes to mind is the factory handle on the stihl pro forestry axe. Although it’s not a splitting axe, the shock I got from swinging it was horrible. And that’s due to the ridiculously thick hickory handle. The first thing I do when I get a new axe is thin the handle (if it needs it).
Thin handles, in my opinion, are so much more comfortable to use. Not only is the handle shock less, but the thin handle doesn’t fatigue your hand as quickly as a thicker handle does.
The fact that your tennis elbow doesn’t become as agitated as quickly using the fiskars is definitely an interesting. It’s quite possible that wranglerstar is wrong on this. He’s quite biased and I find myself disagreeing with him on several axe related topics. Unfortunately he does have quite the fan base that takes whatever he says as gospel and that then becomes the “standard” in the axe community.
Very cool discussion sir. I think I’ll take my fiskars and a few other splitting axes out soon and really test them. I often split big, knotty rounds so I’ll have plenty of swings to really test this out.
You’re just the guy to give this a proper test. You have the wood, the axes, and the experience. Be interested to see what you come up with. Like you, the handle is pretty much the first thing I go at when I get a new axe. There’s no axe company I know of that is making a complete axe that doesn’t need some work (typically a lot!). As for WranglerStar, he deserves the following he’s got. He’s worked hard at it and has taught a lot of people many different things. But he often speaks with way too much certainty about subjects I don’t think he has much experience with. He does the same thing with gear reviews too. Uses something once and praises it to sell shit on Amazon. I don’t blame him for making money. That’s his right as an American citizen. I just worry it’s warped his opinions. Anyway, I can’t wait to see what you come up with. Cheers/
My brother is adamant about wood handles being far superior to composite/fiberglass/plastic handles. However, I personally don’t find any significant difference between them.
I do a ton of work and have never had any issues with either handle, other than the head falling off a wood handle axe after years of use. I now use a composite handle, and it has always performed very well and my arms are sore regardless of which axe handle I have.
Composite is generally cheaper and far easier to find with a heavier head than a fancy hickory handle. Hell, even Harbor Freight’s $26 splitting maul with an 8lb head had worked just as well as any wooden handled maul I’ve owned.
I think the issue is more about length of the handle, as once the length reaches a certain threshold, the shock is just about the same. Hatchets are the only real problem, as the short length with less material transmits more shock to the wrist and elbow. Maybe wooden handled hatchets are better due to the porous nature of wood absorbing more shock. Otherwise, it’s all the same to me.
That’s a good point about length. I just like the fact I don’t have to worry about beating up a plastic handle.
I prefer wood over fiberglass simply because I've never found a fiberglass log in the woods that I could drag out and carve into a handle. I agree the thicker the wood handle, the more shock is transferred. I'm making an ash handle for a small. vintage (6-1/2" long with 4-1/2" bit) Jersey pattern that someone shamelessly hung on a broomstick of a straight handle. It not only felt uncomfortable in hand, it stung my hands when I gave it a few test swings, like hitting a baseball just so with a bat. I'm going to thin that one down and prob hand a double bit on it.
Another great point. They aren’t very “self-reliant” are they? The lack of customization is the biggest problem of this axe. Good luck with the new project. I just finished a Jersey build myself. Put it on a custom White Oak handle. She’s a beaut.
Personally, I"m strictly a wooden handle guy. I can't stand plastic/ composite handles, I hate the way they look and feel but I can't comment on vibration as I haven't used them hours on end day in day out. But I believe any form of handle is bad if it's too thick, not an ergonomic shape (as you stated) etc regardless of material. I don't have issues with my arm like you do so I appreciate your input. thanks again!
Well said. It’s the major downside of plastic handles. No ability to customize it. I do wish Fiskars would make one slightly slimmer and slightly longer. Like you, I never really noticed shock until I had problems with my arms this year. Kind sucks tbh. But gives us something to talk about anyway. Cheers.
@@KevinsDisobedience Thank you for having videos we can discuss, take it easy :)
I think your right about the strain Kevin, but it really all comes down to user preference and skill level. When I first started splitting fell logs, I gripped my wood splitter like a gorilla and would have pain for weeks lol, now I ease up on my grip and learned release right after impact to reduce reverberations going through my arms and back. Works for me anyhow. Also, I switched over to the fiskars in the spring of this year and it’s been my go to splitter now over my gbruk splitter. I’m not as scared to really dig in with the fiskars lol. Makes my job much easier when I can swing the axe liberally without financial fear of destroying an expensive piece.
@@bill9716 oh I know it. Especially with twisted grain. Some logs are just a pain to split lol. It’s the nature of the beast
There’s definitely something to be said about not over gripping it. I want to address that too, like when and wear you can release and when you can’t. For me, it’s just that. I want to split with impunity and not worry about my axe.
I save the gnarly ones for the wood splitter lol
@@KevinsDisobedience amen!
Yeah we just have small elms here. They only get about 6” before it’s taken over by Dutch Elm. The Ash is basically gone due to the boring beetle. And we have some older oak the get sudden oak death, attributed to fungus in the root system, I believe.
I absolutely with you, pleasure to watch! Subscribed 👌🏼🤗
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the sub.
Very interesting. I guess I haven't given it much thought. Last time I used a plastic or fiberglass handle was when I was a kid. Dad got tired of me breaking wood handles every year. Since then I haven't even given them a look. If an axe or maul had a handle other than wood I wouldn't even consider it. Either I'm too old school or my girlfriend is right in that she says I'm hard headed. Huh...
To be honest, I hadn’t thought of it much either. But I do remember it’s something WranglerStar said about this axe. No shade thrown his way, but I think he was prejudiced against them from the start. We all do it. Hard to know when we do it sometimes. Just keep using what you like. And keep the girlfriend happy. A good woman is more important than any axe…well, depends on the make and model haha jk. Cheers.
Ha ha! Very true. Have a nice day
@@KevinsDisobedience he definitely deserves shade thrown his way. Lol he hated on a style just because it wasn’t his preference 😂
I love the X27 head, splits like a champ but...I hate the handle. On small stuff not bad but on medium to large rounds the shock is bad but I have huge hands so maybe that exacerbates it.
Yeah, I wish the handle was a little different myself. Just pop on some gloves and you won’t notice it. Cheers
I live vintage axes too! I got myself a Gransfors Bruks Double bit swamper Last week. And im from germany, so vintage double bits are rare! This Swamper was the only one aviable in Germany!
Greetings!
Cool, I’ve never seen one of those in the wild. Hope you get out there and swing her this week. Cheers
@@KevinsDisobedience I hope so! The thing is, in Germany you dont get double bit handles so I have to cut one myself.
Cheers back!
Corollary argument was that a smooth, oiled wooden handle was kinder to your hands because they didn't raise blisters as easily as painted handles, lacquered handles and in the case of the Fiskars, plastic handles. Is that part of the comfort equation, thin, smooth wooden handles vs plastic?
Custom wooden handles will always be more comfortable. The benefit of plastic for splitting is no concern of damage. Just wack and stack.
Ive been splittong a lot of wood with an X27 (I think thats the model), and its fantastic. But I will say that my hands are wat more sore after a cord with it, then from a wooden handled ax, or my Gransfors Buks.
Worth noting then. I honestly don’t notice a difference. That said, I prefer wood for other reasons.
The fiskars is my go to it's light weight it doesn't stick it splits amazing. I love wood handle tools but the fiskars is amazing for the price compared to 300$ wood handle axes
Well said
Preference is key. If you have the money to try a few different brands & types -- it is worth the money & time to find what suits you individually.
I think there has been a resurgence of loving / adoring / admiring wooden handles for many reasons. There are sub-reasons saying less shock, or "superior." A wooden handle -- you can replace yourself. You now have more "ownership" of your tool. You can customize a wooden handle. Play with different thicknesses, lengths, designs. Furthermore, it opens up all these neat craftsman skills & techniques you can add to your repertoire & belt. All this is neat & great.
> I think just about all of us love the videos Wranglestar has put out there - giving comparisons, analysis, etc on all kinds of axes, knives, shop tools, survival tools. He has a vast array of opinions & knowledge that are interesting & fantastic to add to all of our own array of knowledge; so when we work on our own tools & building up our collections; we can draw on that helpful info.
However, it seems a lot of people have proclaimed & touted their love / admiration for wooden handles for the above reasons -- that don't necessarily mean it is a better splitter or chopper (i.e. less shock) -- It seems to have more to do with getting in touch with building the skills, knowledge folks just didn't have, or weren't fully in touch with (working on wooden handles & using tools related to craftsmanship). Getting in touch with our history & the history of axes & related tools. None of this is bad -- but, claiming it has less shock.....?? Feels far-fetched, and just adding another "reason" to defend a decision.
I'm not a huge fan of some fiberglass & plastic, like Fiskars axes: (they do great work, but too light for my taste) -- But, they have lifetime warranty. They hold up. Don't rot, even when abuses by folks who split to work or heat their homes (not just on the shelf to show to people).
Personally, I have over 30 different axes -- wooden varieties & some fiberglass. My favor splitter is the newer style 8lb Collins splitting maul.
www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/gardening-tools/striking-tools/7598493?store=14671&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3uGqBhDdARIsAFeJ5r11LTeTMHjwTkm7l4biY-3kWzF_fw6mqFw7XwwKN-r4YRKPnEDqH5kaAu2HEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
It gets abused like no ones business. I use it for heating my home / selling firewood. We use a log splitter machines to get finite, "prettier" smaller splits -- But, split down the huge rounds of LOGS with the maul 1st, so we aren't trying to move around the extremely heavy logs. It's been overstriked by my guys a millions times (bc it just happens, and bc they're idiots), it's left out sometimes (bc people don't take care of their tools & put things away) -- No matter what abuse. It stands true & gets work done. I'm the only guy who uses the wooden handled axes. They're great, and have their utility. But, you almost feel you have to baby them, or protect them. Or, you end up having to replace handles & repair. No issue, but that's more time, I don't have.
Try a ton of mauls & axes. Enjoy the different pros & cons each offers. Length, shape & size of the chopping blade itself. Customize, abuse. Have fun. Just using these tools is a phenomenal work out. Can make you money, bc many folks can't or are too soft to do the work. Get in touch with your primal side & let loose!
Yeah, Ive long been a fan of vintage axes, and have always been an advocate for learning how to do that work. Self-reliance in all trades is sorta my thing. But when I split wood I don’t want to worry about saving out my handle. I want to do what needs doing to get rounds busted up and in the furnace. Thanks for taking the time to type out a thoughtful response. Few do.
Hi Kevin!!😀😀
I have always took a wooden handle over a fiberglass handle until I got ahold of the Fisker x25 and x27. I'm pretty sure that the handle on the Fisker is carbon fiber not fiberglass. Because it reacts more like wood than a solid fiberglass handle. Wood absorbs the shock better than fiberglass and so does the handle on the Fisker.
That's the opinion from a person who has split literally thousands of face cords. So take it for what it's worth. Wrangler Star hasn't split enough wood with a axe to fill a cats ass.
That's my opinion!!😀😀
Take care my friend.
Logger Al
Interesting, I’ll have to look that up. I just assumed it was fiberglass. I really do wish we could test this somehow. Gotta be a way…
My go to for busting up rounds is the Fiskars 8lb IsoCore maul. It's the shiz. Smaller work with a Council Tool Jersey Classic 32". This is the easiest and most efficient way I've come by.
I know a lot of people that like that maul. I half the big gnarly rounds with the wood splitter and then split them down 🤫😉
I don’t think about it a lot tbh. I just grab an X27 Fiskars to split so my nice axes stay nice🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for sharing Kevin, always my kind of party👍🏻
I haven’t either tbh. But worth thinking about, I guess, once you’ve had tennis elbow. Thanks for commenting.
My issue with fiberglass handles was never how they transfer shock from the axe through the body, but that they *feel* like there's a lot more flexion and that maybe you're not hitting the object as hard. I haven't had tons of swings with fiberglass axes, but I've used a crapload of sledgehammers and I really don't like em. I know a hammer is a lot different but maybe this can give you something else to chew on. It's like they don't drive into the target as strong, feels much more bouncy. I'm emphasizing the word feel cause this is such a subjective thing to intuit lol.
Interesting, I’ve not really heard that perspective, but worth thinking on if we’re going to nerd-out on the subject. For me, they’re just a tool I don’t have to baby or repair so they’ll always have a place by the woodpile.
To be honest i don't think it has anything to do with the handle being wood or fibre glass but how the user grips the handle if you give it the kung-fu grip you are going to feel the shock reverberate up the handle but if you grip it soft but not overly firm you shouldn't really feel anything outher than the round split
Good point. That definitely has something to do with it. Probably a lot! Thanks for always participating in the conversation.
Plastic handles are perfectly functional. There is a weird feedback on the fiskars, not bad but weird. Also the shape is not for everyone. If you want to get splitting done and not having to worry about the handle then a plastic handle is more useful.
Wranglestar is a youtuber who is paid to review half of his stuff and tends to hype vintage tools without any good reason. His knowledge is spotty on a lot of areas of axe use, I just don't really take him too seriously.
I don’t love the feel of the Fiskars either, but I soon forget I’m holding it if I’m honest. I’m not mad at WranglerStar. He should get paid to do reviews. He’s worked hard at building his channel. But unlike you, a lot and I mean a lot of people take him all too seriously, and I don’t think he has much experience with real axe use. Because while there is room for preference, any real axe use will sort some basic stuff out real quick.
@@KevinsDisobedience lol I bought my Gransfor after watching his videos. Then I was like man this thing fucking sucks lol its hard on the hand, the handle is not really finished, my old fiskars x7 was way way better at chopping. Yeah I wish he just did a paid advertisement disclaimer.
From my experience, a thinner wooden handle is definitely superior for splitting axes. It just takes a bit more time, which people usually dont want to give out. Instant gratification I guess. Fibreglass axes are cheap to produce and super durable but from my experience swinging one its also quite uncomfortable.
Nothing like a thin, whippy, finely-tuned handle. No arguments there. But if it weren’t for that stupid hook, I really would mind the Fiskars. But with the hook, I’ve gotta wear gloves.
I don't know why I missed this video, thank you so much for the shout out and my appologies for coming in the doobili-doo so late after the party.
I don't have much to say on the subject anyway, as I don't have much experience with Fiskar. The only fiber glass handle I have is on a big basic low budget maul that always comes handy when everything else failed to the task. It's my "Big Boy" and somehow the fact that it is cheap, ugly looking, and with a solid handle allows me to use it like a brute.
It matters a lot not having to care about protecting a tool for which the primary function is all about smashing wood to pieces.
More generally speaking tho, and probably because of my background as artist where this notion is granted, I don't believe there is "better" tools. There is as much better tools as there is individuals who use them, a tool can be the right one for a job, and yet not for the one who use it, just like some individuals will always get the better of any tool in any situation.
Usually (my guess is that wranglestar missed that) different tools requires different techniques, even if it's only small changes, we need to adapt to the tool, not the opposite.
I also believe that most of us forget that we, as human being and body, are our first and more important tool, the one that really matters.
And everyone is different, so what may be best for someone won't always be for someone else. It's not the brush that makes the artist :))
Better late than never. Fair point about the right tool for the right job and adapting to a tool. There’s always a learning curve with a new tool. I think I’d refine it by saying all tools can do work, some are better than others, but there is not best tool. So you’re a painter?
@@KevinsDisobedience I'm comic book color artist, so it's painting but with story-telling, and always-too-short-deadlines.
Wow, you do that for a living? That’s sounds cool. Have you ever read the Amazing Adventures of Cavlar and Clay by Michael Chabon? One of the best contemporary novels I’ve ever read. the main characters are comic book artists in the 50s.
@@KevinsDisobedience Yes I do, for almost 20 years now. I never heard about that book, I'm putting it in my to-read list, thanks for the tip.
50s comic book artists were legendary, I had the chance to meet some in my life and they always taught me so much. Colors during that time was even crazyer, while I can now work with gazillion of printable shades they used to only work with just a few, to the point where it was a competition amoung all the book publishers to get the "one" extra color the other don't have, a specific yellow, or a red or a new shade of blue. It was really something else.
You’ll love the book then. A little slow to start as the main character is originally interested in magic, specifically Houdini, and has to escape Nazi Germany. But more than 3/4 of the book is built around the world of drawing comics.
I honestly never even though about using a plastic handle. Everyone I ever knew to split always had wood maybe I’ll go take a ride to my local tractor supply and grab one and see how she feels
Sure, give one a swing and see whAt ya think. Not the most comfortable thing, but you’ll soon forget that as you work with it.
Mr. Kevin, I laughed big at the costume and accent! I was one of the commenters about the shock, I did a vid in explanation of my comments as well as links of use of Fiskars chopping axe. I have not viewed Mr. Wranglerstars' Fiskars video nor do I watch his productions. I do however wear WRANGLER pro rodeo jeans.....I think you and I may be related....
Lol I’m glad you enjoyed the humor. Just some fun. I somehow missed your comment concerning the shock. I’d love to see you video and link it in the description here. Can you reply with the link? ThNks. What is pro rodeo jeans? Chaps? If so they’re a good idea. Nothing to be ashamed of there. I would just be lying if I put them on for the camera because I just never have. Definitely should start.
@@KevinsDisobedience th-cam.com/video/n37fLJHB4M0/w-d-xo.html
Wrangler pro rodeo jeans are just that, rodeo jeans. Mr. Kevin, you asked me my thoughts about the Fiskars chopping axe in the comments of the previous vid. I assumed you read them. Do understand I am not arguing just showing folks where my opinion came from.. Thank you Mr. Kevin...ps notice the hat I am wearing in the vid....
I do my best to read every comment. But alas I don’t remember them all. Anyway thanks for the link. I’ll check it out.
@@KevinsDisobedience I understand that, due to the volume of comments you are processing it must be overwhelming....
Side tracking from the topic of this video, after watching some of Mr Wrangler's old videos, he appears to either full of it or running his lip repeating stuff he's heard.
But back to the topic at hand Kev, from experience, I've never used a Fiskars axe at all in my life. But speaking from experience with my two fiberglass handle council tool axes, a double bit and Dayton which I take out and use in soupy damp weather or toss to family so they don't bust and chew up my nice wooden handles, there is a difference in vibrations.
As to whether wood or fiberglass transfers more into my arms I don't know. But when I smack the heads in wood hard the fiberglass does flex and vibrates more loosely like a wet noodle and wood flexes and vibrates more like a raw noodle. In context im talking about my handles being thinned how I like.
Hope my simile makes sense and I'm clear about what i'm trying to say.
Are you suggesting plastic is better than wood? 😉. The image is clear anyway. I honestly don’t know. But I don’t think it’s a case of one being way better than the other-that is when wooden handles are slimmed down properly. Thanks for adding to the conversation.
I know right? All the die hard purists will expect my resignation and for me to fork over rights to wooden handle axes in the present and future. 😂
Honestly though I couldn't spot or feel enough of a difference between fiberglass and wood.
About the only visible difference I can see is that my technique gets sloppy while using the fiberglass beaters compared to the wood handles.
Glad you liked skinny bear's channel Kevin, thought you might
Yes, thanks for recommending it. I’ve been watching old videos.
I am a big fan of wooden handles for the looks, tradition, and repairability. But I have found that if you are going to buy a cheap hardware store hatchet or something, the fiberglass is often cheaper and better in use than the wooden version of the same model, and it's not even close. I think it's easier to get a fiberglass handle right on a low budget with off shore factories and it's more that they do such a lousy job on the wooden handles whereas the fiberglass is consistent and average. You can make a more useful say $25-$50 axe with a fiberglass reenforced nylon handle that will actually flex and whip a little giving some mechanical advantage while remaining durable enough to avoid it breaking the first time someone sneezes while swinging. 99% of the wooden handles in the lowest price range are just completely dead stiff and heavy. I think it's a combination of cheap poor quality wood, fear of bad reviews with pictures of broken handles, and lack of knowledge and experience on the part of the manufacturer. Occasionally you are going to find a Collins or true temper with a great well shaped handle if you have a to pick through a pile at the store, and when you do buy it for 30 bucks and if it breaks what are you out really lol.
Well said. Can confirm. My experience is the same. Probably the most sensible, reasoned response I’ve gotten. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Not sure about the actual measurable differences between wood and plastic (if it can be measured) but perceived differences exist. I like wooden handles on striking tools and know how wood feels (all mine wear BLO but that's not the feel to which I'm referring). If a plastic, fiberglass, or steel handle doesn't feel the same as wood I don't like it! A notable exception is the Plumb 20 oz. claw hammer... That hammer, fiberglass handle and all, has been my favorite hammer for 30+ years.
BTW, with the PPE on you were channeling Donald Sutherland when he was in tank commander mode in The Dirty Dozen.
I’m with you on feel. I prefer wooden handles tools for the feel as well. I even use a wooden handled hammer, but I have Estwings for dirty work. And I have wooden sledges and a FiberGlass one for dirty work. Basically that’s what I’m arguing. Fiberglass wins for dirty work.
As for the PPE, at least I’ve got some on. If you had caught me ten years ago, I didn’t even wear hearing protection. I just did the safety squints.
@@KevinsDisobedience Oddly I just noticed my comment was truncated. I updated it! LOL
Yes, it's comforting to have a thin handle for an axe when chopping and splitting. Try lifting 2.5 inch 100 lbs dumbell vs. a regular 100 lbs dumbell. The 2.5-inch grip makes it very uncomfortable.
That’s a fair comparison. Dumbbell bars are thin for a reason.
Listen, question, test, assimilate. Always the best way.
Seems like we have a pretty similar approach to life. Cheers.
👍🏻
I have used both a fair bit. Wood more than plastic and have to say I like the wood handles. I find the plastic to be way to fat for my liking and love the customability of my wooden axe handles. So I dont know that for me ita the material vs the customability if thats a word lol.
Great point. Wish I had mentioned it, but that’s what the doobly-doo is for. I hate that about the Fiskars as well. I wish they would make one just like it but thinner. I don’t see that affecting the integrity at all. But yes, customizing is nice. Can’t do that with a plastic job.
Oh here he goes again starting intense controversy. Nature VS. Nurture experiences, lol. Oh, I am now convinced my brand new Hudson Bay head is gonna fly off and doink somebody in the head. Sigh. Yeah thanks.... Last time I split whole trunk pieces I used a glass wedge , and it was fine, I did a whole chord. I have the same brachioradialis issue that you do. Fiberglass is great stuff, it's cheap and durable, and analogy: there's now a revival with fly rodders, because it has a more "supple, slow action_" Of course they gouge the crap out of those customers , pricing these rods "new" at $300.00 now . I buy the blanks for 10.00. You could buy a rod for two bucks made in 1955 at a yard sale. Modern Carbon fiber fly rods have a faster action, are FAR more accurate with tiny flies, but have less "impact resistance" . But, techically, carbon has a higher "tensile strength" they say . But notice how no one has attempted to market that with axes. Because it has little "impact strength". I did see a "tactical hatchet with a Reynolds 531 STEEL handle with some sort of "collar", I thought that was kinda interesting, but it's just a hatchet. So that was kinda weight weenie. They make hunting arrows out of carbon fiber now, they're supposed to be insanely uniform, and accurate, and durable enough , apparently to not explode into splinters when they hit a deer's shoulder blade. I am still researching that , even though they are expensive AF. I still shoot cedars. Fiberglass is supposed to be durable for arrows, but the woven glass ones I had as a kid (Bear Archery) would splinter at the points. No good. If it's SOLID fiberglass though, heavy and clunky, its awesome. (Fish arrows, driveways snow plow markers) I wonder if they put some sort of foam in the center of those sexy looking Fiskars handles? That would help. Also are those handles woven or solid glass (that's been bored out or wrapped around a mandrel? I haven't seen one in the flesh yet. The glass splitting wedge I mentioned that I used was solid glass, I think it was a crappy Collins or Ace Hardware or something. I think also when splitting , or even chopping it's important to loosen your grip slightly on impact . So the vibrations don't travel right up your tendons . (work from your "core" grasshopper!) I do road cycling, and many cyclists get carpal tunnel syndrome on their carbon bikes because they hold their bars in a death grip (especially on climbs) and their wrists are bent when they should be straight. We call it "road shock". Same concept as loosening your grip for that gu-dush impact. The only beef I'd have with the Fiskars is you can't spend 4 hours of your life replacing the handle if it DOES ever break. So just buy two of them , They are totally cheap, made in china now? Oh but they're stuck on the boat, right. I forgot...
Love your response made me laugh and think at the same time. Gotta loose head in your HB already. I’ve never had a CT not come loose on me within a matter of months. My biggest complaint with the company. A lot of good comparisons with other fiberglass tools. But I don’t have a clue how they make these. I don’t even know if it is fiberglass. Could be some mixture of plastics or carbon fiber, not sure. I just like it because I can work with impunity.
@@KevinsDisobedience it probably is pure fiberglass , you could always ask them. If it's a "weave" they could also add some boron into the weave. Splitting, to me, is not that big of a deal, vibe wise. Chopping, limbing on the other hand... (Red oak , ow...)
@@robertgraves3215 liked your train of thought there in that long comment. I'm also a fisho, occasional bowhunter, and used to ride BMX and MTB. Hadnt occurred to me, but Interesting to compare all those tech/material changes over the years. I remember getting my first carbon rods over 2 decades ago now, broke a few tips but with use and practice the advantages became clear (when used with good technique in right situation, e.g.. when chasing big fish off the ocean rocks a carbon/glass composite is still my pick), same with arrows. Have busted one arrow on a big hit. Not tried a carbon bike but have heard that the added stiffness can take some getting used to.
@@robertgraves3215 felling and bucking is where I really notice it.
@@KevinsDisobedience Okay think about this, when you fell a tree, look at the angle your right arm tendon must endure with that head weight (and then the shock, gu-dush) versus if you are VERTICALLY splitting (not insane golf swinging) your arm joint really isn't "carrying" that much weight , as it's a vertical extension and you let the axe weight really do the work. And almost no gu-dush. Oh I had this thought this morning. I bet if you asked Fiskars what those handles compostition is , they'd probably be like "we use a high tech blend of fiberglass , space age resins, and high impact polypropylene". Translation : gound up fiberlass , epoxy, and tupperware.
I have a history in forestry, fit wooden handles to traditional axe heads.
I also made axe heads before.
And tbf, you can customize the flex or "whip" of a handle to the axe head and your own preferences.
I'm absolutely biased to the traditional axes.
That said, I have a couple fiskars axes and worked with them plenty.
No matter how much we traditional fanboys would like to hate fiskars.
In many ways, Fiskars makes the perfect beginners axes and just plain ol great work axes.
Fiskars steel is soft, but it takes an edge super easily.
Any level of sharperner can sharpen a fiskars axe free hand.
Their balance is all in the head which is a good thing for axes.
It's not toe heavy. (Many traditional axes are more toe heavy than I'd like tbh)
The head is hanged perfectly square/symmetrical. Something which is even rare in 200-300 dollar axes.
The handle shapes are very ergonomical.
Great thickness and shape.
And the handle does not give more shock at all. (Idk what wranglestar was on when he said that)
The handles are more durable than wood handles and this is a fact, you can break them but by the time you break a fiskars handle, you'd have broken 5 or 10 wood handles.
And fiskars is dirt cheap for what you get.
I know for gardeners/axe novices fiskars might look expensive.
But most other proper axes are significantly more expensive.
And they honestly don't even tick all the boxes that the fiskars does.
The only downside to fiskars is that they're modern plasticy looking and that you technically can't rehandle them.
(Neither would you ever need to, and the axe also doesn't come loose and can't rot)
Other than turning them into a bronze age style socketed head.
I honestly can 100% recommend fiskars axes to anyone serious about getting into chopping.
Other than that I dislike how difficult it is to find long handled chopping heads.
But yeah ofc when you get good axemanship and learn how to make your own good handles, join the traditional axe dark side.
Amen. You said it all, and you even know how to write, which I take as a sign of high intelligence these days. More to say, but gotta run. Thank you sincerely for taking the time to comment.
I think it’s a personal preference. I am a wood handle maniac but I respect Fiskars for their quality products.
Just something special about wooden-handled tools, in’nit. If I have a shallow hole to dig or a short ditch, I grab my Fiskars spade, but I would much rather use a thin flexible vintage True Temper all day. Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.
You don't seriously take advise as gospel from Wranglestar I hope. The composite handles are great from a user, manufacturer, and general long lasting point of view. They are almost too good, the Fiskars design DOES work rather well and that's due to the R&D put into them by a 600y/o company. But for the more traditional folk we don't accept a handle and ax bit 'being as one' aka 'not serviceable'. We like certain curves in a handle to offset the weight of the heavy bit. We find cetain wood types have 'just right's qualities for handles and we look after our tools we aren't interested in a handle that will outlast religion left outside to suffer the elements because we don't treat our ax's that way in any case. As for shock, either handle type can perform well or not so well according to what wood density your dealing with. I think the composite handles work well with this in most cases.
I don’t take what anybody says as gospel. But I do worry a lot of people saw WranglerStars video and now merely repeat what he said. I also don’t hate WranglerStar. I can’t watch his videos on a regular basis for reasons I’ll keep to myself, but he’s worked hard to get where he’s at, so I’m not mad at him. There’s nothing wrong with being a traditionalist. Obviously, I love vintage wooden handles tools. But I’m also a child of the 80s. I’d be denying my birthright if I rejected plastics outright. We are swimming in the shit (quite literally if you go to the Pacific). Perhaps that’s another argument for wooden handles tools. You can repurpose them we they’re done or just toss them on the stove. What do you do with the Fiskars? Good points 👍
@@KevinsDisobedience Well I think at least the Fiskars is made well enough that it should take many years before it enters landfill. That cannot be said for many products these days made out of plastic. They come with a lifetime warranty. I have an X27 and x25 the 27 performs well in dense Ozzie hardwood, the 25 not so much, it's to short and light to split rounds yet to long and heavy to split kindling. Many who just repeat what others have said don't really have 'skin in the game' as such, so I wouldn't worry too much about that sort of stuff. What do they say about opinions...
Fiberglass handles is the best way to go , I can’t stand wooden handles
For splitting, without a collar of some kind, it’s too much to worry about. I just want to split wood, not worry about saving out my axe.
👋
I've never tried a non wood handle so I can't say. I think the argument against fiberglass may just be "bro-science," lol.
I love wooden handles tools. But I think the argument against fiberglass tools is more boomer-science than bro science lol. I do wish there was a way we could test this.
Merely claiming "there's no way it does" is not a substantiated argument. It's just another claim spewed out into the whirlpool of other mere claims, wrapped in a rhetorical cloak attempting to make it sound like a real argument.
I’m sorry been a little while since I made the vid. What was I referring to? I’m merely speaking from personal experience. Take it for what it’s worth. This is definitely not a scientific experiment. Cheers
@@KevinsDisobedience You were talking about the effect of a thick wood handle. I know it's not a scientific experiment; that's the reason for my comment. The way you speak in the video is as though you are attempting to provide some rigorous and reliable information about the distinct characteristics of each type of handle, but everything you say just boils down to, "this is how it feels for me," and "I'm assuming this is true so it must be true." Why would you post a video and speak as though you are sure something is true generally while admitting you haven't done any rigorous testing to substantiate your position? It's misleading, and it's a waste of time.
First!
Wrangler Star doesn't know what he's talking about. Besides being vain, arrogant and irritating he probably has financial reasons for most of the things he says. He can't even figure out how to use a machete so why would anyone listen to his advice on a subject like this.
Over the years I've split way more wood using a maul than he has and while I have wood handle mauls I don't really use them. The fiberglass handles are better in everyway over wood when it comes to splitting mauls imo. I do like wooden handled axes better but their work isn't as brutal as what a splitting maul does. To be honest I've never had a problem with shock when splitting wood but there's less of it in a good fiberglass hafted maul. The main reason I like fiberglass hafted mauls better is because they are a lot harder to break and you can leave them in the bed of your truck or at the woodpile and not worry about the weather effecting them like a wooden handled maul. Years ago I bought a metal handled maul just to try out and those do generate some shock that can get uncomfortable after hours of work. Interesting video by the way, happy to see you making some more.😊
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I ain’t mad at WranglerStar. He’s worked hard on his channel. I just think he’s got some major blind spots and prejudices. The one thing I don’t like about plastic handles is that you can’t customize them. If Fiskars would make a slightly slimmer model of this at 30”, I think it would be perfect. I never noticed handle shock prior to my injury either, but now I’m more sensitive to it. I’ve never used a metal handles axe before, but I’ve looked at the Estwings before. I like their hammers. Thanks for the kind words of support.
Where was Wranglerstar not wrong? Makes a shorter list...
Easy…😉. I don’t dislike the guy. Hell, I don’t know him. I just think he speaks with too much authority on some things he has little experience with. This is one.
@@KevinsDisobedience I strongly dislike where his channel has gone. Earlier his remarks regarding eg. Fiskars could be seen as tongue in cheek and personal preference, but his vids are pure clickbait at this point. He's bashing quality products just for the clicks. All the while demonstrating exactly what you said: strong opinions, little knowledge.
I haven’t watched his channel for a long time, except an occasional axe video. The last one I watched was when he ran up a mountain with a hatchet in his back pack, never used it, and then said it was a great little axe.
....and another AvE fan reveals himself in this video.
Hehehe…gotta love the guy
Wrangler stars wrong a lot lol nothin new