Stop Shooting At ISO 100
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ธ.ค. 2024
- You probably don't need to worry about your ISO as much. People love to point out noise as a technical failure, but nobody seems to be aware that high ISOs are not that noisy - and who said that noise is bad in the first place?
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TOTALLY AGREE WITH THIS!!! I used to delete any photo that I saw as not sharp enough and that left a good amount of nice shots to just be gone to never be edited or uploaded. Now that I've stopped caring about getting the highest quality shots I can at all times and started caring more about the actual moment I capture, I feel like I've gotten significantly more open to trying things that I would've never done before, and that's worked out great!
Absolutely!!
Huge agree!
Any ISO up to 1600 is basically clean, and 3200-6400 is mostly just a little
grittier with minimally reduced dynamic range.
A general rule of thumb I've found across multiple cameras/brands, whatever
your camera's highest ISO is, 2-stops down will probably be the best value
for auto-ISO. Manually select higher if needed.
At night, I use f5.6 almost exclusively, 1/15-1/125, auto-ISO 6400.
If metering says it's still under-exposed, I'm not close enough.
As someone shooting digital since 2003 (im in my 40s now) we came up with misconception however it was basically true back then. However I think it just kept on repeating and is now a urban legend for photography. You're right. High iso is ok now. I useit upto 6400 and if I need to noise reduction software is amazing! Good video!
Genuinely, just today I've taken a few shots that would be nice if they wouldn't all come out blurry because I left my camera on ISO 1600. What a timing!
This kind of depends on the camera for me, but I tend to shoot my Zf at 800 ISO and my Z8 at 500 ISO as a starting point. From there, the Zf is really incredible at high ISO, the Z8 less so.
Oh my, oh my. Couple days ago I went for a walk at night (like 6pm) and I was thinking exactly about iso. As I’m shooting while walking I needed at least 1/250s shutter speed so I increased upper limit of auto iso to 6400, from usual 3200, and I did it feeling uncomfortable. Now I think I’ll go up to 12800 👌
Thanks, awesome video as always!
Around 5:30 or so when you talked about auto ISO, I just felt the brain pop. Ohhhhh. That makes so much sense.
I am Team 12800. Fujifilm’s Acros film simulation is my secret weapon. That digital noise looks like delicious grain.
I’m here for the cinematic theatrics 🤩 I’m in to this sort of things. The film camera on a gimbal? ✨ 😂
Seriously speaking, I tend to leave my ISO dial on auto, it’s fine haha
I guess your quote on the video "How To Be FASTER Than Autofocus" can also be applied here: "Photography is rife with gatekeeping and an insane amount of technical speak that doesn't mean anything to real human beings".
I'm a beginner and I've been doing a bunch of research and have not come across a single person mentioning that ISO is just a tool and could be used creatively. Most even oversimplify ISO, saying it changes the sensor's sensitivity to light when it doesn't (which apparently was true for film in film cameras, but not modern cameras, don't quote me on that).
You gave me some cool ideas. I had never thought of using ISO creatively, the same way guitarists use gain (ISO) and distortion (noise). Thanks!
Glad to hear it! The guitar comparison is very clever.
@huntercreatesthings I've yet to find a single thing in photography that I can't relate to guitar in some way!
My Zf taught me this. Shooting manual and rolling the dials without leaving the viewfinder. Get an amazing shot, great settings, and WOW my ISO is above 10K. Noticed I'd second guess after seeing the dial and turn it down. Edit: My favourite in camera noise is from my D700, apparently it's because the noise is monochromatic.
Makes me somehow more relieved not to worry about ISO, yes...
But also the numbers next too the "thumbs up" button will
not align and makes me question my sanity a bit.
Yup just did a video on using auto ISO and about its not the ISO is necessarily the problem. It's mostly the other settings.
This is Gold! I love it.
Or get a Sony a7s and bump the ISO speed up to 409600 :D
When i use over 5000 iso my photos look like a rainbow 😍
But in all seriousness though, I will take this into consideration. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
What? Were you hanging out with me last night and I forgot about it? I was out in the fog at night, and I just let Auto ISO have its way with me. I was up around 6000 most of the time, and it was mostly fine. I kept the shutter pegged at 250. I was bouncing between 2.8 and 8 aperture.
But 12800? Whoa!!! :)
You'll be shocked at how usable it is if you expose to the right!
3d pop psychosis is realer than people think
Should have said Leicanthropy.
Dammit!!
Even with my old DSLR, I run Auto-ISO and only really tweak the minimum setting if the shutter or aperture starts limiting what I want to shoot.
Yeah 100% - I use auto iso most of the time and just keep an eye to make sure I'm not clipping either way
Very good video.
I used to feel that image editing wasn't "photography". Now I feel that there are at least two kinds of photography. Film photography and digital photography are just two examples. I still use my digital cameras like they're film, but I edit them with a freedom the digital medium brings (not a "light room" guy, because Darktable = cost to use matrix win) .. Film, to me is "film" .. it has a look, feel, and excitement to see what you shot after the shoot .. I "chimp" way too often with digital, but .. I can so I do :) ..
I like my photos how I like my beats NOISY 🔉
Big dirty stinkin beats
so many people said my pentax k3 iso 12800-51200 is useless because at over 1600 noise make the picture worrst but who care about that alot of time I shot at 3200-25600
3d pop psychosis? Is that what Casey has?
To be fair my old lumix really does start to look mushy beyond 1600 and the color is completely unusable beyond 3200. The color noise makes it really ugly and while black and white can be a solution, sometimes I would like to render the colors, especially at night when there is beautiful city light.
Ah yeah MFT sensors are tricky, especially the older ones - but I like to think of them like shooting super 16 film since they're a similar size, and embrace the imperfections :)
@@huntercreatesthings Well it's what I could afford lol but to be fair I have fallen in love with the lumix system and probably will upgrade to a GH model whenever I have the money for it. It is gonna be a familiar interface, will be portable and won't have to buy all new adapters for my myriad of third party and vintage lenses lol.
Incidentally I am struggling to find a good wide angle for it - at a low price that is. The default lens for the G7, the G Vario, is a decent zoom that goes down to 14mm (well 28 equivalent I guess), but it has little to no personality and I just don't like the fully electronic aperture. I like manual lenses, being able to control the aperture with my hands just feels so much better than with buttons.
So are you saying
Increase iso as needed?
Yeah, I literally never worry about noise. If it's dark enough that you're getting lots of noise even shooting as wide open and as slow a shutter as you can handle, then the noise is probably thematically consistent!
artificially boosting a signal (iso is just signal gain) increases all aspects of the signal perceived by the sensor; SNR (signal to noise ratio) is the make or break parameter that defines how much gain you can get away with before noise is indiscernible from your signal - on my canon t6i thats about 800 iso before the noise intensity levels in the R and G channels are about the same as what the rest of the image has
manufacturing processes have come a very very long way from the 2010s (layout of the sensor IC and photoreceptor wells and adjacent circuitry has benefited massively with smaller processing node sizes i.e 3nm vs 7nm, smaller die connections reduce signal latency and theres less cross interference between adjacent pixel wells - the hw has gotten more power to run better algorithms to denoise pixel by pixel vs grid by grid) - youre highly dependent on modern technology in order to be able to get away with shooting at higher iso's, so its pretty misleading to say "high iso is good", it isnt a universal statement especially if older dslrs are still commonplace
there is also the dependency on paid software to denoise - have you tried darktable to denoise?
all in all, on an instagram upload it doesnt make a difference, it does matter if you attempt to print your photos and are interested in enlarging them
my reference camera for these opinions is my nikon from 11 years ago so I don't think that it's unreasonable. I meet loads of photographers all the time and 99% of them are using a newer camera than me.
Yes, you have to pay for denoising software - just like you have to pay for developer and fixer.
I've taken shots at iso 12800 on the D750 that I've printed A0 size and they've come out great :)
auto-ISO kids
I use auto ISO 80% of the time
Well, this is a topic du jour now ain’t it? Should we thank Gerald for that or curse him? One thing is true - if you don’t have much “signal” coming through the lens then increasing ISO will amplify the weak signal along with the noise floor of the sensor. So, the more signal the less apparent noise. Is noise “bad?” Nope, and as you say it’s much less obvious than ever before.
My opinion? Every photographer should do their own testing so they know what’s acceptable for them. Your use case sounds like the old “f8 and be there” school of photojournalism. My opinion? Use all your exposure settings based on the story you are trying to tell. Smearing the motion could be the key to a photos success - or shooting the shallowest depth of field may help obscure an unrelated background - or picking a noisy ISO may give you the grit your photo really needs.
Photography is about choices. My guess is one exposure control is most important to the story you are trying to tell than the other two. Set that control first then wrestle the other two controls into a compromise you can live with.
Finally, if you really want to see what’s happening in your photo - for god’s sake - do not “load it your phone” to check it out. View it on a larger high resolution monitor.
F8 and Be There has been a core technique of mine for years hahaha!
Yeah I don’t think I agree with what you’re saying. You don’t show any good examples of high noise photos that are good and you mention that the slow shutter will make your photo blurry and shooting wide open will give you a very shallow DOF but these both can be mitigated by distance to subject and stabilising your shots, ISO on the other hand will introduce horrible noise in the shadows if they are unlit. My suggestion? If you are using a sony camera you can set the auto minimum iso to be faster or slower and go from there if you think your camera’s exposure meter is “wrong”. Good luck.
almost all the photos in this video are shot at 12,800
i think that's what he meant to say