Really cool info. I will be snowboarding again next season after a 15 years stop. I will be starting again at the age of 70. I want to carve but not at 50 mph. After looking into where the carving snowboards were at these days I found the board I will be using. I was a hard boot person. Now I will be going into the soft boots and finding your channel was a real help. I had decided getting the Flow nx2 carbon and bang your follow up video confirms my choice. I will surely implement a few of your customising tips because I want to be as comfortable in my stance as possible. Keep up the great work. Much appreciated.
Loving the video series! Finally! Thought I was the throwback freak as I've been riding 12/27 for a long time, carve-centric; rode palmer plates 20 years ago. Turns out I'm not the only one. Thanks James; Mica, Alta Snowboard Team.
You're doing a great job! On a chair lift ride, I mentioned "James cherry video" to a person working on their carves in OHIO, and they knew exactly what video that was! People are getting so much from what you're putting out there! Also... I recently hooked two ankle straps together, like a loop. I can ratchet it around my front highback and top of boot. It no longer feels I have to tighten my laces every 5 runs on that front foot. I don't recommend overly tight boots for people learning, but it's definitely helpful for the more precise carving. I switched to intuition fx race liner but I can tell after a few days riding, it loses integrity. I've edited this 5 times! I never knew about canting modification. Fascinating
@cherrycarves Yes, I used two bindings that had those softer ankle straps, used before I switched to stiffer set ups. I made a quick unlisted clip if you want to see. I'm pretty happy with my simple contraption! th-cam.com/video/w9ojBUnriI0/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared I was experimenting with the taller highback idea, but for me so far, using this on the front foot has dialed things in. There definitely needs to be more room for customization in the market. Imagine being a 110 lb. female rider and having even less options!
@@cherrycarvesthe solution has already been found. The burton SYSTEM binding (with 3 straps) of 1997. (can easily be googled in their 1997 catalog).I used that binding for softboot carving for almost 15 years.
These are the best wide softboot carving boards in the world right now! They're like my children... If the house was on fire I would have some very difficult decisions to make.
James thank you for all the time and dedication you have for the community, there's so much wonderful information in your content. Have you ever tried Burton Step-On bindings+boots? Curious to know your thoughts if you have, I really enjoy the responsiveness personally. You might have a great perspective on any restrictions they might have. Cheers from Broomfield, CO
I don't ride Step On system. The boots are not stiff enough and I can't put my custom lift and cant on the footbed. Which is not to say that it's not the right set up for you.
James, that's priceless! You are the man! I'm a former longboarder (freeride) and advanced surfer, so carving is in my blood. I'm transitioning to snowboarding now and just got an Arbor Bryan Iguchi Pro Camber 23 with Flux XV and TM boots. I'm curious to know your view on boards, and if you can talk a little bit about that. Thank you for your videos, it has been helping me a lot to understand what I need to my next trip in a few weeks to Cortina/Italy.
Reversing the toe strap on the back foot is like a revelation because I can feel mine grazing the snow when I get it on edge. Definitely going to try that.
Had a flow nx2 carbon paired to my Amplid UNW8 - it was a nice combo that made the UNW8 feel springy and not so stiff - just recently rode Rome Black Labels on the same board, and it feels a little less binding for the board. Tx for the vid, might go back to the Flows~
Glad you discovered.the NX2 Fusion, I ride these NX2 already many years, my favorite binding for carving. Regarding setup, try to set the Highback to the rear holes (you need to unmount 6 screws per binding to do this, und also move the steel rope back one hole position. Also use the discs with their slots 90 degree to the board direction so you can fine adjust the centering. When turning discs to 180 degrees.you get 2 more stance and setback variations. It is a versatile and good adjustable binding. Ryan Knapton was as well missing the trick with the 6 screws, when he tried it first, so he failed in centering.
Thanks for the intel! I've been a hard booter since the 90s. I don't answer questions from soft booters anymore. I just tell them about your videos. Also, I see a pair of UPZ hard boots in your boot rack. I'd like to see what board and stance you ride with them. Keep the wisdom coming.
I have many hard boot boards. 50cm, 60/55 degrees, TD3 step in bindings with three degree cant disks, the tallest part under the front toes and rear heel.
@@cherrycarvesafter seeing all the custom bits to stiffen your setup, I was wondering why you weren't riding hard boots. Personally preference given other replies. You apparently have way more patience than I do to experiment... With around 10 days of riding per year, I just wanna carve... This said, I'm going to double check my setup given this video. I don't remember having heard some of these recommendations, even at SES where we'd swap boards regularly.
@@cherrycarvesI'm 6'1" and I have a similar setup. 51cm stance, slightly steeper angles to avoid BO with 18cm waist, double the angle on the back foot. At such angles, you no longer need canting indeed...
@ericperl3910 Well, soft boot carving has come a long way since SES was a thing... I never even heard of wide softboot carving board until I met Ryan Knapton in Aspen at ATC 2017.
Hi James, thank you for the videos so far. You've given me the final push to finally try a double posi stance. One question I have is regarding the boot and bindings interface. You seem to have a hard position on bindings with minimal overhang, and boots that are stiff. Both of these issues seem like they would be fixed by moving over to hard booting. What are the advantages of soft boots that keeps you from moving over the hard boots for a carving specific set up. Thanks in advance.
I rode hardboots for many years. Still do from time to time. I like the versatility and comfort of soft boots better. Also, I was constantly injuring my shoulders in hardboots, that doesn't happen in softies. I had to push my board builders to make the stuff I wanted so as to be able to replicate the smoothness, speed, and g-forces I was getting in hard boots. Then I had to get better and stronger to ride them the way I wanted to, and I had to get risers and stiffen my interface too. Worth it. I feel more freedom in soft boots and a more satisfying ride. Posi-posi is not a big commitment. Give it a try!
You may be interested in the Recon binding from Karakoram. They're supposed to be ultra stiff, looks like a low B.O. factor as well. I'm using their Continuums on a powder board and like them so far. Regarding adjusting your bindings towards the toe or heelside to minimize boot-out, I have found that if your boots are nearly too big for your size of binding you'll want to adjust them heelward, and if you are at the bottom of the range for your bindings you probably want to move them toeward. For example, Knapton is like a size 9 and still hits his heels first with his medium bindings adjusted all the way toeward, so he has Donek build his personal boards with the entire insert pack shifted toeside, making them directional, despite having being true twins with no setback.
ive been riding stepon X's for 3 seasons now, the bindings FOR ME seem awfully bulletproof (im 6'2 250) , but the boot inserts ,straps, and canting have given me a few more tricks to experiment with. Before anyone jumps in with "engagement will be a problem" indeed it might, but i'll work with it until I find what works. I mod most of my equipment. the weak point right now with the stepon system is probably just boots cant stand up to what im doing. (i mean still plenty good all around, but for what im asking them to do, I need probably those straps and maybe those tongue inserts , those liners are definitely a nice upgrade too) James if you have experience with or opinions about stepons, Id love to see them. Thanks for all the great technical discussions
Great channel you are a follower of science which is very much like my journey is boarding also here in North Idaho, so many variables questions and different answers. That is the reason for constant new information or atleast a way to talk about it and educate others. Keep up the stoke: plus could you do a static demo showing the left foot rider I know that it just the opposite line up, but not always easy to convert in my mind/ thanks!
There's a big contingent of carvers around North Idaho. Some good friends of mine ride there. No on the other thing, I can't demo LFF well. Try thinking of it as mirror image?
Your videos are fantastic. Really appreciate the way you break everything down. What do you think about the Burton step ons? Beyond the ease getting in ( not out though) I find the stiffness of the boots, and the connection link is way more responsive than my old union carbons in soft boots.
I got those nx2 carbon fusions👍 going to try the RK soccer shin pad idea. I put decathlon flex ups in my insano boots but look forward to your product release boot stiffner and riser👌
I have been riding the Nidecker version of the NX2 for a few years now and the front binding has developed a twist in the highback and frame. Agree with you on the need to have the high back be able to rotate, but I don't think it would be possible with the rear entry mechanism. Just bought the ride aluminum framed bindings, we shall see how those feel. Really want to try the Flux XV, but the Rides were half the price.
Me beeing a skier who just started snowboarding, I already had injected ski boot liners in my race boots. The snowboard boots I've got are the same size so I tried to see if the injected liners insert well in the snowboard boots. Well, it is perfect, even much better than the original snowboard liners. More confort, more stiffness, higher on the leg.
Dude! This video is also amazing! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. I'd love to buy a lesson from you, it's just ashame there is a huge ocean in between. Will you be making a video on desired snowboard specs at some point too? 🤩
I'm using the older version, the NX2 GT Hybrid. Excellent control on toes and ankle where it's needed. Definitely the one for the carving. I have problems with the 2 nuts on the base that hold the cable for the back, they rip my boot. Any tips for it? Thanks!
@frenk3yyyy I would have to see it. Are the cables installed properly? Mine are on the outside of the baseplate and only the smooth head of the screw touches my boot.
Hi James, thanks for another great video. Do you know where I can buy the “boot hardener inserts” which you put in the front of your boots? Do you have them in both boots? Do you sell these things? If so what do they cost and is it possible to ship them to Europe? Thanks in advance for your answers and input. Much appreciated.
Hi again Ron. Gimme a week or two, I'm working on bring a few cases in. Shipping to Europe shouldn't be a problem, but that's not my end though, I do the snowboarding. Join the mailing list in the description and you'll be the first to know when the announcement is made!
Hi James , Thank you for videos ! Second season using Combo of carbon A-10 and Insano boots from Ride I find equall to my Deluxe Track 325 :-)) all you mentioned in mods have been done in this binding, the only thing about A-10 carbon fiber backs they indeed solid as steel but shape of the loops where fixing holes is not optimised for turning high backs the corner kinda stick to the boot hill from the side and I can feel it (didn't want to cut them up just yet). I'll Be nice to reach out to Ride about their most expensive model.
Depends on the board and the conditions. Generally I'll line up the highbacks with my boots and then add one notch in the front and two in the rear. My Driver Xs are 5 degrees forward lean so I end up around 7 and 9 I'm guessing. It's a matter of personal choice, play with it and see what works for you. A hair extra forward in the rear binding is common.
Awesome video material. I’ve heard the Flow NX2 carbon fusion as a great option for aggressive carvers due to its zero “BO” indeed. Question: how’s the forward lean adjustments on them? Can I get it aggressive as I would normally do with regular bindings or the step in mechanism compromise it a bit?
Ya, it has less forward lean than some bindings but it's plenty for me. I would like to see another hole for the cable to get more lean options, or a cable tensioner to accomplish the same. I have mine maxed forward and sometimes I put the thickest part of my straps behind my boot top to sneak an extra degree.
Great videos James! Thank you for spreading good info! I've been on my own quest for the last +30 years and have come to similar conclusions. I've never taken Flow bindings seriously but you have made me reconsider. Are there any reasons you chose the Fusions over the Hybrids? I saw a review stating that the Fusions don't wrap around as high on your ankle as the Hybrid straps do, and as someone who always uses the ankle strap as high as possible I think they might be a better fit for me. Greetings from Chile!
No particular reason. I didn't try them in store, I ordered them online. Usually I buy the most expensive "flagship" model and the Fusion seemed to be that one. Chile eh? Been thinking of taking a trip to the Three Valleys this "summer". Got any travel advice? How's the grooming? Email me with details please?
Hey James, I own the A-10s and C-10s, great bindings! If you have a chance to try them out I think you’ll love them provided they don’t make you boot out too early.. Thanks for showing me those straps. I have long wished there was a binding that went all the way up to your calf and actually had a strap that went around your calf and you could ratchet in just like you would around your ankle or toe. That strap looks like it will perform a similar function for the time being I can’t wait to try one out. Can you link the ones youve tried ?
Have you ever ridden a Rome binding such as the cleaver? Curious how this would hold up to your riding. Asking because I am looking for an overall generalist binding on a budget. Instead of listing them all I figure I will just ask about specific one. Thanks for the videos.
Hi James, I'm currently riding Salomon Quantum Carbons on my Burton Custom X, have you had a chance to look at those bindings? Cheers and thanks for the great videos. Love your dedication to thorough and detailed explanations.
@@cherrycarves thanks for the input! It gives me an idea of where they stand compared to the other bindings you reviewed here. It was a bit of a gamble given their lateral flex but so far they’re working out well for me. Cheers!
@@claudiovw Yeah, when you get a stiffer board and want to carve black diamonds you may want to upgrade the bindings, but if it ain't broke don't fix it!
You made a point about the plates adding longitudinal stiffness without adding too much torsional stiffness. Im curious about your thoughts on the snowboards made by the Swiss company SWOARD, which are marketed as extreme-carving snowboards. They are made with a high torsional stiffness and a relatively low longitudinal stiffness. I understand they are generally made for hard boots, but I believe the SWOARD ‘Stoke’ is made more for soft boots. Is this a brand you are aware of and do you think they make good properties for a carving board?
what do you think of the Step-on X bindings? the mechanism is a lot like hardboot bindings. And with some modification, it could work tremendously well.
More than a little modification I expect. I'm more concerned with stiffness and boot out factor than ease of entry. I can do a push-off-step-in on the Flows, that's easy entry enough.
@@cherrycarves In terms of stiffness, its not a problem. BUt Booting out definitely is. the ACT Gear FTA plate (freestyle) can bel quite helpful. give it a try. its stainless steel+foam.
What would be your recommendation for somebody that wants to carve and buy their first binding? Which binding should that be? I think I need the HB rotation tho...
Depends what board you're riding and your boot size. Flow if you're booting out. Flux CV if you're a beginner and a lightweight, XV if you want the full stiffness experience. Drake Podium for comfort... So many options. Not stepins or stepons, not Clew, no skatetech. Anything stiff is good. Ride A8 or A10 maybe. But Flow for sure if your board is narrow.
@@cherrycarves oh thanks a lot :) the problem is i don't have my board yet:c and frankly idk what to chose. I'm in europe, female size 9 (EU 40) 25.5cm; 67kg;173cm tall; I would like to ride with 12 and 27 degrees. Do you think a 26cm waist is enough? That seams to be the standard and im a but afraid its gonna be to narrow. Length 152-156cm?
@scarlettohara7862 Your boot is small enough that you might be lucky enough to squeeze into a stock carving board if you pair it with Flow bindings. For more specific personalized recommendations please join carversconnection.com and ask your questions there. Include details about your height and weight, boot size, stance angles, current setup, snowboarding level, carving experience and your budget.
@@scarlettohara7862 Careful of internet reviews, most of those people aren't carving the way you want to. Custom is always better if you can afford it.
hi , i see you have a never summer proto fr. this board is good for any kind of snow? i meant ice conditions, groomers, soft snow. and this board carve well? i need a board to go all day in any conditions of snow and at the same time to learn how to carve well. thanks
Yes, I would recommend this board for everyday all mountain riding. It's not the best carver but it's pretty good, and it's one of the widest production boards on the market so it reduces boot out. It's somewhat slow for carving but that can be a good thing for steeps and for learning.
@@carloseduardovivasparra1727 Not really. This is what I use for all mountain, the base profile lets me make tight turns in trees and the extra width allows me to carve once I come out of the trees and hit the groomers. If you want a dedicated carving board then I recommend you go to to this page: carversconnection.com/product/jasey-jay-working-title-snowboards-copy-2/ and get on the waiting list for the next batch of C4 boards from Jasey-Jay Anderson. These are incredible boards for learning to carve; unmatched on ice, soft snow and chopped groom, but not so great off piste.
It seems to be gone from their website now. I just looked. I think they still send a note with the info along with their boards, you may be able to request a PDF directly from them, but I pretty much covered it in the video.
Would you mind sharing if you were able to add heel lift to flow bindings and if so, how? I have fuse carbons. I used to have a heel wedge inside my boot for a similar reason, but that makes my Morton’s neuroma mad.
Had the flow carbon but i'm happy I sold it, wayy too stiff for me and something important you haven't mentioned, you can NOT rotate the highback on a flow binding... Innow ride a Flux CV LTD, which is actually the flux carving binding, no problem with bootout because in the front you can just out the strap over your foot instead of the front of your toes then the limit is just the boot (you could do that with the other bindings as well i guess without losing much performance if any.). Also the Flux CV has a 1.5cm higher C-cup than most other bindings which reduces heelndrag as well and gives you more leverage on the heel edge. Also you van rotate the heelcup and the lateral flex is quite soft but very stiff directly towards the heel if that makes sense. Flux CV LTD is absolutely my go-to binding nowadays. 🤙
Nice. Glad you found your ultimate setup. I like the extra stiffness myself and the zero BO factor on the Flows is more important to me than a rotating highback.
From a couple sheets of climbing shoe rubber I had left over from a previous life... You can use almost anything. Rubber mats for example, flooring underlay, high density foam from your local bootfitter...
Hello James, I love your videos! Ever since you dropped part 1, I moved my angles to +30/+15, made the drills, and now I'm enjoying snowboarding so much more! I got pretty hooked on improving my carving and laying down as much as possible, and I think I might need a new board to do this. I'm 194 cm tall, 90 kg, 45.5 food size. I have a problem with finding something good for my size. My current board is a Korua Otto 161W (268 waist width). I met with an instructor the other day, he told me that a carving board length should reach somewhere between my chin and nose. The Korua barely reaches the bottom part of my neck. With this in mind, do you think you can recommend me something tall and wide enough, that I can use to really lay down a lot? The last board I found is Nidecker The Gun 174 cm tall, but the width is 257 :(. I have big trouble finding anything online.
Yes... Yes I do. Join the mailing list in the description and you'll be among the first to know when the boards are available to purchase. (Very soon.) And ignore what the "instructors" are telling you. I'll hook you up with the board you need.
@@cherrycarves Hey thanks I subscribed. Sadly I have 10 more days left to ride till mid-March, so this board will be for the next season. At least I won't buy something that I will regret in the future. Thanks again for all your work!
Have you seen my boardroom? That would be a very long video... Better, I'm working on building the board you want to ride. Join the mailing list and be among the first to know when they're available to purchase.
James thanks, another great video. May I ask you some deep dive on diy canting/rising mods? This is something I though for a long time but never found any resource about this critical argument. Thanks! 😅
For sure you highlight the need of some mods on bindings, my point is to make some closer shots of the padding and add tips based on your experience, like positioning, materials and so on. I will try to play with lift on front and back foot but I think this is a specific topic that none with your experience had explained before for softboot carving (while is normal for hardbooters)
Hi James! Great content! I'm sorry if it's a dumb question, but why to go through all these modification with soft boot to get it stiffer when you can just use hard boots with appropriate bindings? Is it a personal preference or has something more underneath it? Thanks)
Depends... Where do you ride? East coast "hardpack" or Grand Targhee deep cord? Depends also on your carving level, stance angles and board sidecut. Short answer is 280 to 290mm.
Hi James! can you advise me what size of flow nx2 carbon fasteners to buy for shoe size 8.5, M or L? according to the manufacturer, both sizes are suitable. there is no way to check in the store. I order online.
@@cherrycarves thank you for advice, James! I just thought that the bigger the platform, the better the transfer of effort. but do you recommend the minimum possible size of the bindings?
@user-lj9pe6cj4r I explain this in a review of these bindings on carversconnection.com. Bottom line is the large is too big for my size 9 Driver X. I make then work but medium would be better.
Great video , do you testing Union Atlas FC or Atlas Pro. I bought Now Drive Pro, but my boots very little and can' t put center in the bidings, and the toe strap sliding out everytime. I had Flux XV ,great bindings but now change to CV . CV highbacks are little more confortable, and the the heelcup taller. ;) I would like testing Union Atlas pro , but earlier reeading this flow nxt2 is very good for carving.🤔
@@cherrycarves make sense. You prefer soft boots or the alpine? (I’m guessing the soft boots) what’s the pros and cons? Why do you have your preference?
@@johnsteiner4165 Those are some big questions that I intend to answer elsewhere soon. Stay tuned and join the mailing list in the description to be the first to know.
Hi James, During the video I was constantly waiting for your take on hardboot carving. From my point of view, I see only drawbacks from using soft boots, all those stiffeners and limited longetivity does not make any sense to me. I'm trying to get back to snowboarding after years and years of skiing and after months of research I find soft boots the pinnacle of "thinking inside the box". Since my priority is split, I went with Key Equipment Disruptives and after watching couple of your vids I believe hardboots would solve many of your issues(especially with booting out stiffness) Just for example, my 28 mondo sized boot will add just 2cm in total length and binding will add 0, there's no highback so no calf bites, they should last longer and upgraded stiffer tongue is available on the page. So why boarders still insists on softboots? I don't get it..
There are many advantages of soft boots too. Comfort, versatility, stance... I feel better in soft boots, more aggressive. I rode hardboots for decades, that's probably why I pushed my builders so hard for the softboot boards I wanted: because I knew already what kinds of turns were possible if we could make the boards right!
This video is definitely great. I'm going to spread it among my classic boot fitters, who only know how to recommend that I switch to alpine style. When you bring to market anything that helps aggressive driving.... Please keep in mind women with small feet, it is impossible to achieve that strength in sizes 21.5/ 22. And as for the waists of the boards... I better not mention anything about the damn market. @Kijimasnowboards made one for me, it's entering another game.
Hi Elena. I'll see what I can do but this sport is largely male dominated. Even my TH-cam audience is 96% male. You may have to do some custom mods for those tiny feet... On the up side, it must be easy to get boards that are wide enough for you!
The problem with the boards is that they are too wide for good centering and leverage. But I have already solved this part with customization. Boots and bindings too soft, I deform the shells in a week...😬 Boot fitters can't believe it, better switch to alpine.🙄😔 Dude....
@elenajb8479 Any custom board builder will make you a carving board with a custom width. Narrower is never a problem. Jasey-Jay and Coiler are not really taking new clients right now but Exegi in Golden BC can help you out before you give up and go to hard boots. Carl is making a soft boot carver now for my eight year old daughter. Exegi.ca. Tell Carl I sent you please. Having said that, hardbooting is awesome! Expensive to get set up and awkward at first but the smoothest carves for sure! Email me and I'll point you to some good resources. (Address is in the about section on my home page or the first 10 seconds of the "Four Drills" video.)
James, new subscriber here. About to contact Bruce V. with a board order. In a previous videos comments section you recommended a measurement to get board width right but I can't seem to find it. Was it Mondopoint size plus 2cm? Appreciate the videos and the selfless, mass dissemination of a lifetimes worth of knowledge!
@@rotorookie Not exactly. Jasey-Jay Anderson will be picking up the flag and carrying on. We're prototyping now, will have boards available very soon. Limited quantities though, so sign up for mailing list if you want one. And yes, mondo point plus 2cm for the average size man's foot. MP plus 4cm if you ride like James Cherry on stiff boards with huge sidecuts.
@@cherrycarves Am on the mailing list! Thanks for the clarification on the MP size. I only wish I could ride steeps like James Cherry! Hopefully the right board will move me toward that goal.
James, I now have the fever...trench digger syndrome. I am thinking of buying a carve specific board for soft boots for next season. Probably something used. What characteristics should I look for? What should I steer clear of? Next video?
@@davidmcfall5926 You have lots of options then... 270 or 275mm waist will do you. Lucky! Amplid, Stranda, Jones all make decent carving boards but not wide enough for me. Titanal is best for carving but more expensive; Kessler, Oxess, and SG make titanal boards, again, only in your size, not mine. Lots of Asian board companies too like BC Stream and Yonex, same story on width. I ride Jasey-Jay Anderson boards and Coilers, these are the only two guys who make titanal freecarving boards in my width. And because they're years ahead of anyone else for freecarve specific boards. I'm only in a 26.5 or 27 Mondo boot but my straight leg style lends itself to more boot out, and I go real fast. So 295-300mm is my preferred waist width.
@carves Thank you for taking the time to write these detailed replies. Checked Yonex, BC Stream, and Moss. The widest carver I can find is 260cm, those are rare. Most of these Japanese carvers run around 250 cm give or take 2cm. Land of very small feet or extreme possy-possy.
Well they can until boot becomes a problem, then replace them with Flows and use them for powder. It's on the pow days that you need the quicker in and out anyway, gotta stay ahead of your poaching friends!
The portion where you cover the bindings on the pizza box by measuring the binding high back plus the boot- I’m not really understanding how this limits waist width. Isn’t that measurement of the high back wayyy higher than where your edge would actually touch the snow ? Newbie here so just trying to understand
Ya it's higher but I angulate that board way up and then the edge sinks into the snow. I wouldn't need so much width if I was riding ice... I'm not making it up man, boot out is a real thing.
When I saw what DIY modifications you did to your boots, I find it strange that you didn't "glue" some "protective pads" to the FLOW's hibacks :> You know, because they don't have rotating hibacks. I also have FLOW's NX2 and was thinking what material I could use to make some attachements to the hibacks. Something that goes more "around" the boot on one side. And now you give me and idea - "protective pads"! Thanks!
Nice episode! Your O-Drive is an old model and with the most shitty toe strap ever. The newer models have different toe straps that can be also put on top of the boot to make it zero overhang or a very low profile one that is similar to Jones’ straps that are also great. Worth to upgrade, even for a better hold only.
Maybe. As you can see, I have lots of bindings already. When my wife asks sarcastically "how many bindings do you need" the answer is always "just one more set...".
Drake bindings? I really liked Drake Supersport 2015, their base was like those Podium. They are responsive. They are not so easy to buy, as far as I know, Drake is from Italy and more are sold in Europe. I used these bindings with F2 Eliminator snowboard. You mentioned the F2 Eliminator bindings, but there is also a board. This is a boardcross board. It's responsive, but there's a problem - it's narrow. You need to have crazy angles so as not to touch the snow. I don't use it anymore.
Hi, F2 eliminators comes in a Wide variant also, it's designated by a "w" efter the length, e.g 166w or 168w depending on the model year. That one has a waist width of 25.9 cm. It definitely feels wide compared to my other carving boards (for hardboots).
Probably a million dollars... The one I showed in this video is actually from a snowboard race boot and you might be able to order it from the UPZ distributer for only half a mil.
@@KrisMcphee Good question... I used to run a ton of forward lean but I've backed off in recent years, not sure if that change coincided with riding wider boards or not. Now I put my boot in the binding (on the workbench) and crank up the lean about two degrees more lean than my boot has. Driver X has 5 degrees, not sure about my new Insanos. This way there's not so much boot deformation, and there's no gap between my boot and the heelcup when riding so less boot out potential. It's yet another compromise thing. The more lean you have the quicker the heel edge engages but the slower the toe edge engages... Usually ends up close to the higher end of forward on most bindings, a hair more in the rear than the front foot. Not so much that it becomes awkward to stand up with base flat on flat ground.
@cherrycarves I never thought about the slower toe side engagement thing. Makes sense though. I tend to run a lot of lean on the back and moderate on the front. For reference though I've become a bit lazy in that I ride one board, with one stance for everything all the time. So I run lower angles (15,3). I love the quick heelside engagement that lots of lean gives me and toeside carves are easier to rail so that might be why I haven't considered the loss in that engagement. Have been very seriously getting back into having a carving dedicated setup lately which led me to stumble on your channel. Love the dry humor btw. Also really like the hot tip to hit up a ski shop for a ski boot liner. Do they sell them or have you been given them for free?
@@KrisMcphee Yeah, I buy them but they're way cheaper than the aftermarket Intuition liners and I like the hard plastic tongue up front because I can offset them a bit for the direction where I apply pressure. What does your dedicated carving setup look like?
@@cherrycarves well at this point I've already blown the budget for ski gear outfitting my kids with bigger gear and buying myself and the Mrs new daily driver boards. So my thought for the short term is to grab a pair of ski boot liners to swap out when needed and fashion some canting rubber as per your direction. Likely next year before I can actually get away with a proper new board/bindings. I just replaced my recent board with a K2 Passport 160 which for my 145lb weight and size 9 boot should make a decent groomer machine but versatile enough for pow. Here's to hoping for lots of snow early so we can get at it.
I had to look up "stank" in the urban dictionary to see if there was another meaning... Still not sure which meaning was intended above, but I would like to think there's some truth to both. Say hi to DTB for me and check out the secrets part I video, that one is more popular.
There is a video from Kenichi Takizawa (from LateProject) where he does the same. He’s riding 15/0 and never go too steep but got a beautiful technique for medium speed carves !
This is so educations, you do not hear a lot about bindings, this information is priceless
Really cool info. I will be snowboarding again next season after a 15 years stop. I will be starting again at the age of 70. I want to carve but not at 50 mph. After looking into where the carving snowboards were at these days I found the board I will be using. I was a hard boot person. Now I will be going into the soft boots and finding your channel was a real help. I had decided getting the Flow nx2 carbon and bang your follow up video confirms my choice. I will surely implement a few of your customising tips because I want to be as comfortable in my stance as possible. Keep up the great work. Much appreciated.
Get some!
Loving the video series! Finally! Thought I was the throwback freak as I've been riding 12/27 for a long time, carve-centric; rode palmer plates 20 years ago. Turns out I'm not the only one. Thanks James; Mica, Alta Snowboard Team.
You're doing a great job! On a chair lift ride, I mentioned "James cherry video" to a person working on their carves in OHIO, and they knew exactly what video that was! People are getting so much from what you're putting out there! Also... I recently hooked two ankle straps together, like a loop. I can ratchet it around my front highback and top of boot. It no longer feels I have to tighten my laces every 5 runs on that front foot. I don't recommend overly tight boots for people learning, but it's definitely helpful for the more precise carving. I switched to intuition fx race liner but I can tell after a few days riding, it loses integrity. I've edited this 5 times! I never knew about canting modification. Fascinating
Two ankle straps eh? I've been thinking of attaching something like that to my Flow highbacks. Maybe just the front.
@cherrycarves Yes, I used two bindings that had those softer ankle straps, used before I switched to stiffer set ups. I made a quick unlisted clip if you want to see. I'm pretty happy with my simple contraption! th-cam.com/video/w9ojBUnriI0/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
I was experimenting with the taller highback idea, but for me so far, using this on the front foot has dialed things in. There definitely needs to be more room for customization in the market. Imagine being a 110 lb. female rider and having even less options!
@@cherrycarvesthe solution has already been found. The burton SYSTEM binding (with 3 straps) of 1997. (can easily be googled in their 1997 catalog).I used that binding for softboot carving for almost 15 years.
@@cb1p111 Yup, I remember that binding fondly. Let's start a movement to bring back the third strap!
This man is my future self realized. Look at all those sweet snowboards......!
These are the best wide softboot carving boards in the world right now! They're like my children... If the house was on fire I would have some very difficult decisions to make.
Thanks!
James thank you for all the time and dedication you have for the community, there's so much wonderful information in your content. Have you ever tried Burton Step-On bindings+boots? Curious to know your thoughts if you have, I really enjoy the responsiveness personally. You might have a great perspective on any restrictions they might have. Cheers from Broomfield, CO
I don't ride Step On system. The boots are not stiff enough and I can't put my custom lift and cant on the footbed. Which is not to say that it's not the right set up for you.
James, you're a wizard. Thank you!
James, that's priceless!
You are the man! I'm a former longboarder (freeride) and advanced surfer, so carving is in my blood. I'm transitioning to snowboarding now and just got an Arbor Bryan Iguchi Pro Camber 23 with Flux XV and TM boots. I'm curious to know your view on boards, and if you can talk a little bit about that.
Thank you for your videos, it has been helping me a lot to understand what I need to my next trip in a few weeks to Cortina/Italy.
"The Boards" is Part III of the Secrets Series. Coming soon...
looking fwd to it!
Thanks for another great video. I can’t wait to hear you talk about boards now!
I have a lot to say about boards... Stay tuned!
Awesome stuff as always, thanks James ! 🙏
Did that last week. Looking forward to getting your newsletter etc.
Reversing the toe strap on the back foot is like a revelation because I can feel mine grazing the snow when I get it on edge. Definitely going to try that.
You can't... I have it patented.
@@cherrycarves 😭
Will this prevent my back toa ladders from breaking too?
@@olevanem3932 Dunno... Probably can't hurt.
Hopefully. Broke one today cause its dragging in the snow
James awesome videos. Thanks for sharing your massive experience with us the unenlightened
Ya Bro. That's what I do.
this is such a great educational video. Just learning about tech and as an engineer myself, digging this nerding out a lot :-D Keep it coming!
Had a flow nx2 carbon paired to my Amplid UNW8 - it was a nice combo that made the UNW8 feel springy and not so stiff - just recently rode Rome Black Labels on the same board, and it feels a little less binding for the board. Tx for the vid, might go back to the Flows~
Ya man, the binding stiffness should match the boot stiffness should match the board stiffness...
Glad you discovered.the NX2 Fusion, I ride these NX2 already many years, my favorite binding for carving.
Regarding setup, try to set the Highback to the rear holes (you need to unmount 6 screws per binding to do this, und also move the steel rope back one hole position.
Also use the discs with their slots 90 degree to the board direction so you can fine adjust the centering. When turning discs to 180 degrees.you get 2 more stance and setback variations. It is a versatile and good adjustable binding. Ryan Knapton was as well missing the trick with the 6 screws, when he tried it first, so he failed in centering.
Tried that. It put my bindings too far to the heel. I ride size 9 boots and large bindings. A medium might be a better fit for me.
James, if you know anything about surfing, you are the George Greenough of snowboard carving!👏👍
As a kneeboard surfer that is a huge compliment and agree!
@@mikeyp3694half-men rip.
Thank you! That's very high praise. We'll have to see if I can accomplish as much as Greenough did... Gimme a few more years.
Thanks for the intel! I've been a hard booter since the 90s. I don't answer questions from soft booters anymore. I just tell them about your videos. Also, I see a pair of UPZ hard boots in your boot rack. I'd like to see what board and stance you ride with them. Keep the wisdom coming.
I have many hard boot boards. 50cm, 60/55 degrees, TD3 step in bindings with three degree cant disks, the tallest part under the front toes and rear heel.
@@cherrycarvesafter seeing all the custom bits to stiffen your setup, I was wondering why you weren't riding hard boots.
Personally preference given other replies. You apparently have way more patience than I do to experiment... With around 10 days of riding per year, I just wanna carve... This said, I'm going to double check my setup given this video. I don't remember having heard some of these recommendations, even at SES where we'd swap boards regularly.
@@cherrycarvesI'm 6'1" and I have a similar setup. 51cm stance, slightly steeper angles to avoid BO with 18cm waist, double the angle on the back foot. At such angles, you no longer need canting indeed...
@ericperl3910 Well, soft boot carving has come a long way since SES was a thing... I never even heard of wide softboot carving board until I met Ryan Knapton in Aspen at ATC 2017.
@ericperl3910 Ya but you still want lift at steep hardboot angles. You're not still riding flat bindings are you? Get some Trench Diggers from Bomber!
Hi James, thank you for the videos so far. You've given me the final push to finally try a double posi stance.
One question I have is regarding the boot and bindings interface. You seem to have a hard position on bindings with minimal overhang, and boots that are stiff. Both of these issues seem like they would be fixed by moving over to hard booting. What are the advantages of soft boots that keeps you from moving over the hard boots for a carving specific set up.
Thanks in advance.
I rode hardboots for many years. Still do from time to time. I like the versatility and comfort of soft boots better. Also, I was constantly injuring my shoulders in hardboots, that doesn't happen in softies. I had to push my board builders to make the stuff I wanted so as to be able to replicate the smoothness, speed, and g-forces I was getting in hard boots. Then I had to get better and stronger to ride them the way I wanted to, and I had to get risers and stiffen my interface too. Worth it. I feel more freedom in soft boots and a more satisfying ride.
Posi-posi is not a big commitment. Give it a try!
You may be interested in the Recon binding from Karakoram. They're supposed to be ultra stiff, looks like a low B.O. factor as well. I'm using their Continuums on a powder board and like them so far. Regarding adjusting your bindings towards the toe or heelside to minimize boot-out, I have found that if your boots are nearly too big for your size of binding you'll want to adjust them heelward, and if you are at the bottom of the range for your bindings you probably want to move them toeward. For example, Knapton is like a size 9 and still hits his heels first with his medium bindings adjusted all the way toeward, so he has Donek build his personal boards with the entire insert pack shifted toeside, making them directional, despite having being true twins with no setback.
Yes I know. I've ridden some of Ryan's personal boards. I'll check out those bindings, thanks.
Nice video. I tried many stances and prefer 35/25 for softboot... But now using hardboot 45/35 on the soft-board - excellent for me)
@@Lehao_TK Steep!
Keep up good working, this is great!
Awesome video! Thanks James.
Love your work mate
Another master class
Thanks James 🤙🏻
Yeah Noah, that's what I do (this week).
ive been riding stepon X's for 3 seasons now, the bindings FOR ME seem awfully bulletproof (im 6'2 250) , but the boot inserts ,straps, and canting have given me a few more tricks to experiment with.
Before anyone jumps in with "engagement will be a problem" indeed it might, but i'll work with it until I find what works. I mod most of my equipment.
the weak point right now with the stepon system is probably just boots cant stand up to what im doing. (i mean still plenty good all around, but for what im asking them to do, I need probably those straps and maybe those tongue inserts , those liners are definitely a nice upgrade too)
James if you have experience with or opinions about stepons, Id love to see them. Thanks for all the great technical discussions
No experience but I suspect the boots are too soft for me and I'm only 155lbs.
I'm just enjoyng the nerdyness.. great info
Very good video and well explained, but I have a question: why not use hard race type boots?
So many reasons. I rode hard boots for many years; I prefer the feel, the comfort, and the versatility of the soft boot carving stance.
Nitro makes a carving binding Tanya has a set comes with canting options and designed for trenches......wonder if they woumake the grade
Hey Russ! I wonder too... Canting options eh? Send me a link?
Great channel you are a follower of science which is very much like my journey is boarding also here in North Idaho, so many variables questions and different answers. That is the reason for constant new information or atleast a way to talk about it and educate others. Keep up the stoke: plus could you do a static demo showing the left foot rider I know that it just the opposite line up, but not always easy to convert in my mind/ thanks!
There's a big contingent of carvers around North Idaho. Some good friends of mine ride there.
No on the other thing, I can't demo LFF well. Try thinking of it as mirror image?
@@cherrycarves yeah I’m sure I know some them Steve Procopio used to be part of hard boosters here at Silver Mt.
@@ShredAheadSnowboarding I think Steve moved to Utah. The crew is at Schewitzer now.
@@cherrycarves yep he and the wife just dropped in for a visit while staying at his sisters in post falls this fall. Small world!
thanks James. Great information...
Your videos are fantastic. Really appreciate the way you break everything down. What do you think about the Burton step ons? Beyond the ease getting in ( not out though) I find the stiffness of the boots, and the connection link is way more responsive than my old union carbons in soft boots.
Probably true, but still way softer than my setup. I haven't ridden those, I don't intend to.
James, referring to your test at 6:36 doesn't the height of the back of the binding need to be factored in as well?
@@SlingShotKid007 The height of the heelcup? Yes.
I got those nx2 carbon fusions👍 going to try the RK soccer shin pad idea. I put decathlon flex ups in my insano boots but look forward to your product release boot stiffner and riser👌
Right on!
I have been riding the Nidecker version of the NX2 for a few years now and the front binding has developed a twist in the highback and frame. Agree with you on the need to have the high back be able to rotate, but I don't think it would be possible with the rear entry mechanism. Just bought the ride aluminum framed bindings, we shall see how those feel. Really want to try the Flux XV, but the Rides were half the price.
Rotating highback is only one of the many design modifications I would like to see on the Flows...
Me beeing a skier who just started snowboarding, I already had injected ski boot liners in my race boots. The snowboard boots I've got are the same size so I tried to see if the injected liners insert well in the snowboard boots. Well, it is perfect, even much better than the original snowboard liners. More confort, more stiffness, higher on the leg.
Of course it is! All carvers should throw away their stock snowboard boot liners.
Priceless for sure.
Dude! This video is also amazing! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. I'd love to buy a lesson from you, it's just ashame there is a huge ocean in between. Will you be making a video on desired snowboard specs at some point too? 🤩
Yes! Part III of the Secrets Series is all about the boards. Coming soon.
@@cherrycarves looking forward!
I'm using the older version, the NX2 GT Hybrid. Excellent control on toes and ankle where it's needed. Definitely the one for the carving. I have problems with the 2 nuts on the base that hold the cable for the back, they rip my boot. Any tips for it? Thanks!
@frenk3yyyy I would have to see it. Are the cables installed properly? Mine are on the outside of the baseplate and only the smooth head of the screw touches my boot.
@ Thank you for the answer, the edges of the smooth head are problematic. I can send you the image on e-mail if thats is ok.
@@frenk3yyyy Sure. jamescherry@carversconnection.com.
Hi James, thanks for another great video. Do you know where I can buy the “boot hardener inserts” which you put in the front of your boots? Do you have them in both boots? Do you sell these things? If so what do they cost and is it possible to ship them to Europe? Thanks in advance for your answers and input. Much appreciated.
Hi again Ron. Gimme a week or two, I'm working on bring a few cases in. Shipping to Europe shouldn't be a problem, but that's not my end though, I do the snowboarding.
Join the mailing list in the description and you'll be the first to know when the announcement is made!
Hi James , Thank you for videos ! Second season using Combo of carbon A-10 and Insano boots from Ride I find equall to my Deluxe Track 325 :-)) all you mentioned in mods have been done in this binding, the only thing about A-10 carbon fiber backs they indeed solid as steel but shape of the loops where fixing holes is not optimised for turning high backs the corner kinda stick to the boot hill from the side and I can feel it (didn't want to cut them up just yet). I'll Be nice to reach out to Ride about their most expensive model.
Yeah, usually rotating the highback will add some length to the BO factor in any binding. Insano and A-10 is a killer setup!
I used this on Kessler The Cross 168 to find the weakest link was my legs :-) @@cherrycarves
Hey, James, thank you for great video. I wonder how you set forward lean on your highbacks for best carving experience?
Depends on the board and the conditions. Generally I'll line up the highbacks with my boots and then add one notch in the front and two in the rear. My Driver Xs are 5 degrees forward lean so I end up around 7 and 9 I'm guessing. It's a matter of personal choice, play with it and see what works for you. A hair extra forward in the rear binding is common.
Thanks for the great video! Any thoughts on mini vs regular discs for carving?
Nope. I'm not sure that's anything beyond marketing. No opinion.
Awesome video material. I’ve heard the Flow NX2 carbon fusion as a great option for aggressive carvers due to its zero “BO” indeed. Question: how’s the forward lean adjustments on them? Can I get it aggressive as I would normally do with regular bindings or the step in mechanism compromise it a bit?
Ya, it has less forward lean than some bindings but it's plenty for me. I would like to see another hole for the cable to get more lean options, or a cable tensioner to accomplish the same. I have mine maxed forward and sometimes I put the thickest part of my straps behind my boot top to sneak an extra degree.
Wow, thanks a lot man! Super informative! How did you liked the Jones Freecarver? Is it a good "first carving board"? I have an eye on the 6000 :) ?
Buy the 9000
Great videos James! Thank you for spreading good info! I've been on my own quest for the last +30 years and have come to similar conclusions. I've never taken Flow bindings seriously but you have made me reconsider. Are there any reasons you chose the Fusions over the Hybrids? I saw a review stating that the Fusions don't wrap around as high on your ankle as the Hybrid straps do, and as someone who always uses the ankle strap as high as possible I think they might be a better fit for me. Greetings from Chile!
No particular reason. I didn't try them in store, I ordered them online. Usually I buy the most expensive "flagship" model and the Fusion seemed to be that one.
Chile eh? Been thinking of taking a trip to the Three Valleys this "summer". Got any travel advice? How's the grooming? Email me with details please?
@@cherrycarvesWill do, happy to help!
Thanks for great video! Have you ever try fix binding? Peak + or magnum?
Nope. They're hard to get in Canada
Really? I think its Canada brand. 😮
@@izmailable Maybe. Haven't tried them.
What a nice video!!! Your e thoughts on the Burton Step-On system combine with Ion boots?
Never tried them. Heard they're softer than what I want.
Hey James, I own the A-10s and C-10s, great bindings!
If you have a chance to try them out I think you’ll love them provided they don’t make you boot out too early..
Thanks for showing me those straps. I have long wished there was a binding that went all the way up to your calf and actually had a strap that went around your calf and you could ratchet in just like you would around your ankle or toe.
That strap looks like it will perform a similar function for the time being I can’t wait to try one out. Can you link the ones youve tried ?
Like the old Burton three strap bindings, yeah. Links in the description.
@@cherrycarves
Never heard of those bindings, perhaps Im not old enough but im sure there would be a market for them.
Thanks Cherry 🫡
Do you have an opinion on hard boots?
Ya of course I do! I love hard boots. But I guess I love hard soft boots more...
The soccer shin guards are perfect tools. Add my custom made carbon stiffeners and all hell breaks loose (sort off)
@@marcvanderiet5592 Custom carbon stiffeners eh? Show me? I think I want a set
thanks for your sharing,it is a wonderful video.
I just wondering that how do you compare flow bindig with sp mountain binding
Never tried SP bindings. Would like to though.
Love your vidéo... where you find the extension Bolt for your riser? And do you try UNION ATLAS FC bindings ? They are stiff... carbon stuff. Tanks
Jasey-Jay Anderson makes the risers and the extention posts
Have you ever ridden a Rome binding such as the cleaver? Curious how this would hold up to your riding. Asking because I am looking for an overall generalist binding on a budget. Instead of listing them all I figure I will just ask about specific one. Thanks for the videos.
Haven't tried that binding
What if you were to put the booster strap on last and wrap it around the high back?
Hahaha... Ya love that feeling! Only works on Flows though, other highbacks don't lock.
@@cherrycarves some people (me included) lock down their Burton Step On highbacks with stainless steel hose clamps. Just FYI.
@@oliverward5314 good to know
Hi James, I'm currently riding Salomon Quantum Carbons on my Burton Custom X, have you had a chance to look at those bindings? Cheers and thanks for the great videos. Love your dedication to thorough and detailed explanations.
I have hand flexed those, they're too soft for me. That's not to say they won't work for you though. Cheers!
@@cherrycarves thanks for the input! It gives me an idea of where they stand compared to the other bindings you reviewed here. It was a bit of a gamble given their lateral flex but so far they’re working out well for me. Cheers!
@@claudiovw Yeah, when you get a stiffer board and want to carve black diamonds you may want to upgrade the bindings, but if it ain't broke don't fix it!
You made a point about the plates adding longitudinal stiffness without adding too much torsional stiffness. Im curious about your thoughts on the snowboards made by the Swiss company SWOARD, which are marketed as extreme-carving snowboards. They are made with a high torsional stiffness and a relatively low longitudinal stiffness. I understand they are generally made for hard boots, but I believe the SWOARD ‘Stoke’ is made more for soft boots. Is this a brand you are aware of and do you think they make good properties for a carving board?
Swoard has a good reputation and a strong following among Eurocarvers. Haven't tried them myself, Eurocarving isn't my thing.
what do you think of the Step-on X bindings? the mechanism is a lot like hardboot bindings. And with some modification, it could work tremendously well.
More than a little modification I expect. I'm more concerned with stiffness and boot out factor than ease of entry. I can do a push-off-step-in on the Flows, that's easy entry enough.
@@cherrycarves In terms of stiffness, its not a problem. BUt Booting out definitely is. the ACT Gear FTA plate (freestyle) can bel quite helpful. give it a try. its stainless steel+foam.
Hi James, thanks for the great video, What do you think about Burton Step on (Ion) ?
Never tried it, looks too soft for what I want to do.
What are those shin straps called? I’m trying to find them to add some stiffness to my broken down boot. Any specific brand?
Try Stapins. We'll have those and another brand on carversconnection.com in the fall
What would be your recommendation for somebody that wants to carve and buy their first binding? Which binding should that be? I think I need the HB rotation tho...
Depends what board you're riding and your boot size. Flow if you're booting out. Flux CV if you're a beginner and a lightweight, XV if you want the full stiffness experience. Drake Podium for comfort... So many options. Not stepins or stepons, not Clew, no skatetech. Anything stiff is good. Ride A8 or A10 maybe. But Flow for sure if your board is narrow.
@@cherrycarves oh thanks a lot :) the problem is i don't have my board yet:c and frankly idk what to chose. I'm in europe, female size 9 (EU 40) 25.5cm; 67kg;173cm tall; I would like to ride with 12 and 27 degrees. Do you think a 26cm waist is enough? That seams to be the standard and im a but afraid its gonna be to narrow. Length 152-156cm?
I heared very good opinions on K2 alchemist but it seams narrow/ the longer versions might be too long for me? 159W?
@scarlettohara7862 Your boot is small enough that you might be lucky enough to squeeze into a stock carving board if you pair it with Flow bindings.
For more specific personalized recommendations please join carversconnection.com and ask your questions there. Include details about your height and weight, boot size, stance angles, current setup, snowboarding level, carving experience and your budget.
@@scarlettohara7862 Careful of internet reviews, most of those people aren't carving the way you want to. Custom is always better if you can afford it.
amazing content. Do you do private lessons?
I do indeed. Email me. The address is in the intro of the " Four Drills" video.
Have you tried the Nitro Team bindings for carving? Any opinions?
Haven't tried them, no opinion
James what are your thoughts about the Burton Step On? Have you tried these? I am really curious.
Haven't tried them. Word is they're not stiff enough for the boards I'm riding.
hi , i see you have a never summer proto fr. this board is good for any kind of snow? i meant ice conditions, groomers, soft snow. and this board carve well? i need a board to go all day in any conditions of snow and at the same time to learn how to carve well. thanks
Yes, I would recommend this board for everyday all mountain riding. It's not the best carver but it's pretty good, and it's one of the widest production boards on the market so it reduces boot out. It's somewhat slow for carving but that can be a good thing for steeps and for learning.
@cherrycarves so thanks. Can you recommend others couples of options? Thanks
@@carloseduardovivasparra1727 Not really. This is what I use for all mountain, the base profile lets me make tight turns in trees and the extra width allows me to carve once I come out of the trees and hit the groomers.
If you want a dedicated carving board then I recommend you go to to this page: carversconnection.com/product/jasey-jay-working-title-snowboards-copy-2/ and get on the waiting list for the next batch of C4 boards from Jasey-Jay Anderson. These are incredible boards for learning to carve; unmatched on ice, soft snow and chopped groom, but not so great off piste.
Where can I find the Donek stance article you mentioned in this?
It seems to be gone from their website now. I just looked. I think they still send a note with the info along with their boards, you may be able to request a PDF directly from them, but I pretty much covered it in the video.
Would you mind sharing if you were able to add heel lift to flow bindings and if so, how? I have fuse carbons. I used to have a heel wedge inside my boot for a similar reason, but that makes my Morton’s neuroma mad.
I have a Morton's neuroma in my back foot too. It's in the video how I add lift and cant to my Flows.
Had the flow carbon but i'm happy I sold it, wayy too stiff for me and something important you haven't mentioned, you can NOT rotate the highback on a flow binding... Innow ride a Flux CV LTD, which is actually the flux carving binding, no problem with bootout because in the front you can just out the strap over your foot instead of the front of your toes then the limit is just the boot (you could do that with the other bindings as well i guess without losing much performance if any.). Also the Flux CV has a 1.5cm higher C-cup than most other bindings which reduces heelndrag as well and gives you more leverage on the heel edge. Also you van rotate the heelcup and the lateral flex is quite soft but very stiff directly towards the heel if that makes sense. Flux CV LTD is absolutely my go-to binding nowadays. 🤙
Nice. Glad you found your ultimate setup. I like the extra stiffness myself and the zero BO factor on the Flows is more important to me than a rotating highback.
Where do you source heel and toe lift rubber?
From a couple sheets of climbing shoe rubber I had left over from a previous life... You can use almost anything. Rubber mats for example, flooring underlay, high density foam from your local bootfitter...
Hello James, I love your videos! Ever since you dropped part 1, I moved my angles to +30/+15, made the drills, and now I'm enjoying snowboarding so much more!
I got pretty hooked on improving my carving and laying down as much as possible, and I think I might need a new board to do this.
I'm 194 cm tall, 90 kg, 45.5 food size. I have a problem with finding something good for my size. My current board is a Korua Otto 161W (268 waist width). I met with an instructor the other day, he told me that a carving board length should reach somewhere between my chin and nose. The Korua barely reaches the bottom part of my neck.
With this in mind, do you think you can recommend me something tall and wide enough, that I can use to really lay down a lot? The last board I found is Nidecker The Gun 174 cm tall, but the width is 257 :(. I have big trouble finding anything online.
Yes... Yes I do. Join the mailing list in the description and you'll be among the first to know when the boards are available to purchase. (Very soon.)
And ignore what the "instructors" are telling you. I'll hook you up with the board you need.
@@cherrycarves Hey thanks I subscribed. Sadly I have 10 more days left to ride till mid-March, so this board will be for the next season. At least I won't buy something that I will regret in the future. Thanks again for all your work!
@@nikolamikov6565 Yup. Available to purchase very soon, but delivery will be in the summer for next season.
Do you have any opinions on Burton Step Ons?
I have opinions on everything but no actual experience with the step ons.
awesome video. thank you!
Can you make a video about the snowboard you use?
Have you seen my boardroom? That would be a very long video...
Better, I'm working on building the board you want to ride. Join the mailing list and be among the first to know when they're available to purchase.
James thanks, another great video. May I ask you some deep dive on diy canting/rising mods? This is something I though for a long time but never found any resource about this critical argument. Thanks! 😅
Didn't I just do that?
For sure you highlight the need of some mods on bindings, my point is to make some closer shots of the padding and add tips based on your experience, like positioning, materials and so on. I will try to play with lift on front and back foot but I think this is a specific topic that none with your experience had explained before for softboot carving (while is normal for hardbooters)
Hi James! Great content! I'm sorry if it's a dumb question, but why to go through all these modification with soft boot to get it stiffer when you can just use hard boots with appropriate bindings? Is it a personal preference or has something more underneath it? Thanks)
Versatility and comfort is better in soft boots. Personal preference for sure. It's more about the stance than the stiffness.
how wide of the board would you recommand for people with US9.5 boot to avoid toe and heel drag ? thank you
Depends... Where do you ride? East coast "hardpack" or Grand Targhee deep cord? Depends also on your carving level, stance angles and board sidecut. Short answer is 280 to 290mm.
Hi James! can you advise me what size of flow nx2 carbon fasteners to buy for shoe size 8.5, M or L? according to the manufacturer, both sizes are suitable. there is no way to check in the store. I order online.
Definitely medium!
@@cherrycarves thank you for advice, James! I just thought that the bigger the platform, the better the transfer of effort. but do you recommend the minimum possible size of the bindings?
@user-lj9pe6cj4r I explain this in a review of these bindings on carversconnection.com. Bottom line is the large is too big for my size 9 Driver X. I make then work but medium would be better.
thank you for advice, James)
Great video , do you testing Union Atlas FC or Atlas Pro. I bought Now Drive Pro, but my boots very little and can' t put center in the bidings, and the toe strap sliding out everytime. I had Flux XV ,great bindings but now change to CV . CV highbacks are little more confortable, and the the heelcup taller. ;) I would like testing Union Atlas pro , but earlier reeading this flow nxt2 is very good for carving.🤔
Yeah, I like the Flows this season.
Have you ever tried hard boot alpine style?
Of course! How do think I learned to carve so well???
@@cherrycarves make sense. You prefer soft boots or the alpine? (I’m guessing the soft boots) what’s the pros and cons? Why do you have your preference?
@@johnsteiner4165 Those are some big questions that I intend to answer elsewhere soon. Stay tuned and join the mailing list in the description to be the first to know.
@@cherrycarves awesome! Thanks , I’m looking forward to it. Your videos have really made my time on the mountain much more fun
Do you have an opinion on Nitro phantom carver bindings? That's the ones I have and I thought they're pretty good.
Haven't seen those.
Hi James,
During the video I was constantly waiting for your take on hardboot carving. From my point of view, I see only drawbacks from using soft boots, all those stiffeners and limited longetivity does not make any sense to me.
I'm trying to get back to snowboarding after years and years of skiing and after months of research I find soft boots the pinnacle of "thinking inside the box".
Since my priority is split, I went with Key Equipment Disruptives and after watching couple of your vids I believe hardboots would solve many of your issues(especially with booting out stiffness)
Just for example, my 28 mondo sized boot will add just 2cm in total length and binding will add 0, there's no highback so no calf bites, they should last longer and upgraded stiffer tongue is available on the page.
So why boarders still insists on softboots? I don't get it..
There are many advantages of soft boots too. Comfort, versatility, stance... I feel better in soft boots, more aggressive. I rode hardboots for decades, that's probably why I pushed my builders so hard for the softboot boards I wanted: because I knew already what kinds of turns were possible if we could make the boards right!
Do you teach in something like a carving camp?
Ya, putting somethings together for next season. Sign up for the mailing list in the description and you'll be among the first to know!
This video is definitely great.
I'm going to spread it among my classic boot fitters, who only know how to recommend that I switch to alpine style.
When you bring to market anything that helps aggressive driving....
Please keep in mind women with small feet, it is impossible to achieve that strength in sizes 21.5/ 22.
And as for the waists of the boards... I better not mention anything about the damn market.
@Kijimasnowboards made one for me, it's entering another game.
Hi Elena. I'll see what I can do but this sport is largely male dominated. Even my TH-cam audience is 96% male. You may have to do some custom mods for those tiny feet... On the up side, it must be easy to get boards that are wide enough for you!
The problem with the boards is that they are too wide for good centering and leverage.
But I have already solved this part with customization.
Boots and bindings too soft, I deform the shells in a week...😬
Boot fitters can't believe it, better switch to alpine.🙄😔
Dude....
@elenajb8479 Any custom board builder will make you a carving board with a custom width. Narrower is never a problem. Jasey-Jay and Coiler are not really taking new clients right now but Exegi in Golden BC can help you out before you give up and go to hard boots. Carl is making a soft boot carver now for my eight year old daughter. Exegi.ca. Tell Carl I sent you please.
Having said that, hardbooting is awesome! Expensive to get set up and awkward at first but the smoothest carves for sure!
Email me and I'll point you to some good resources. (Address is in the about section on my home page or the first 10 seconds of the "Four Drills" video.)
James, new subscriber here. About to contact Bruce V. with a board order.
In a previous videos comments section you recommended a measurement to get board width right but I can't seem to find it. Was it Mondopoint size plus 2cm?
Appreciate the videos and the selfless, mass dissemination of a lifetimes worth of knowledge!
Leave Bruce alone! He doesn't even have time to make the board I want! I'm working on something, there will be boards for everyone very soon...
@@cherrycarves Hmmmm, Ok, perhaps you are to be Bruces' Padawan learner? Here's hoping!😀
@@rotorookie Not exactly. Jasey-Jay Anderson will be picking up the flag and carrying on. We're prototyping now, will have boards available very soon. Limited quantities though, so sign up for mailing list if you want one.
And yes, mondo point plus 2cm for the average size man's foot. MP plus 4cm if you ride like James Cherry on stiff boards with huge sidecuts.
@@cherrycarves Am on the mailing list!
Thanks for the clarification on the MP size.
I only wish I could ride steeps like James Cherry! Hopefully the right board will move me toward that goal.
I’d be interested in your more affordable risers when they become available.
Sign up for the mailing list, you'll be the first to know!
Wouldn’t a ride insano solve some of tou boot problems? They are stiffer than driver x
Maybe. I'm buying a pair this week... But for the record my only "boot problem" is that I wear them out too fast.
Nice Jacket :)
Right?
James, I now have the fever...trench digger syndrome. I am thinking of buying a carve specific board for soft boots for next season. Probably something used. What characteristics should I look for? What should I steer clear of? Next video?
Yes, the next installment of the Secrets Series is about the boards. In the meantime, you can try to find something wide.
@@cherrycarves That is a good starter question: How wide do I need? I am blessed with rather small feet (US7 J25).
@@davidmcfall5926 You have lots of options then... 270 or 275mm waist will do you. Lucky! Amplid, Stranda, Jones all make decent carving boards but not wide enough for me. Titanal is best for carving but more expensive; Kessler, Oxess, and SG make titanal boards, again, only in your size, not mine. Lots of Asian board companies too like BC Stream and Yonex, same story on width.
I ride Jasey-Jay Anderson boards and Coilers, these are the only two guys who make titanal freecarving boards in my width. And because they're years ahead of anyone else for freecarve specific boards.
I'm only in a 26.5 or 27 Mondo boot but my straight leg style lends itself to more boot out, and I go real fast. So 295-300mm is my preferred waist width.
@carves Thank you for taking the time to write these detailed replies. Checked Yonex, BC Stream, and Moss. The widest carver I can find is 260cm, those are rare. Most of these Japanese carvers run around 250 cm give or take 2cm. Land of very small feet or extreme possy-possy.
@@davidmcfall5926 Ya, I don't really get it. Sirui had some interesting thoughts on this style and stance in my "Hip Shift" video.
How stable is this setup at Mach?
More stable than anything else except maybe a hard boot alpine race setup.
So it’s safe to say my new Nidecker Step in bindings can’t be used for carving?…what a bummer.
Well they can until boot becomes a problem, then replace them with Flows and use them for powder. It's on the pow days that you need the quicker in and out anyway, gotta stay ahead of your poaching friends!
The portion where you cover the bindings on the pizza box by measuring the binding high back plus the boot- I’m not really understanding how this limits waist width. Isn’t that measurement of the high back wayyy higher than where your edge would actually touch the snow ? Newbie here so just trying to understand
Ya it's higher but I angulate that board way up and then the edge sinks into the snow. I wouldn't need so much width if I was riding ice... I'm not making it up man, boot out is a real thing.
I believe you for sure. Just asking the questions cuz I am new to all of this 🤟
When I saw what DIY modifications you did to your boots, I find it strange that you didn't "glue" some "protective pads" to the FLOW's hibacks :> You know, because they don't have rotating hibacks.
I also have FLOW's NX2 and was thinking what material I could use to make some attachements to the hibacks. Something that goes more "around" the boot on one side.
And now you give me and idea - "protective pads"!
Thanks!
Ooohhh... Great idea! Also needs a third strap maybe?
Nice episode! Your O-Drive is an old model and with the most shitty toe strap ever. The newer models have different toe straps that can be also put on top of the boot to make it zero overhang or a very low profile one that is similar to Jones’ straps that are also great. Worth to upgrade, even for a better hold only.
Maybe. As you can see, I have lots of bindings already. When my wife asks sarcastically "how many bindings do you need" the answer is always "just one more set...".
@@cherrycarves hah, always N+1! But in this case it’s only the toe strap, not the whole binding upgrade.
Drake bindings? I really liked Drake Supersport 2015, their base was like those Podium. They are responsive. They are not so easy to buy, as far as I know, Drake is from Italy and more are sold in Europe.
I used these bindings with F2 Eliminator snowboard. You mentioned the F2 Eliminator bindings, but there is also a board. This is a boardcross board. It's responsive, but there's a problem - it's narrow. You need to have crazy angles so as not to touch the snow. I don't use it anymore.
Right? Why aren't any European manufacturers making wide boards? Let's create the demand.
Hi,
F2 eliminators comes in a Wide variant also, it's designated by a "w" efter the length, e.g 166w or 168w depending on the model year. That one has a waist width of 25.9 cm. It definitely feels wide compared to my other carving boards (for hardboots).
@@joakimhaldin6392 That's not in the range of what I would ride: too wide for hard boots, not wide enough for soft boots...
@@cherrycarves Yes, we are already creating ))
@@joakimhaldin6392 I had 158, it's narrower. Maybe I'll try a longer version.
anyone know how much Ski Barn would charge for a liner like this one?
Probably a million dollars... The one I showed in this video is actually from a snowboard race boot and you might be able to order it from the UPZ distributer for only half a mil.
I have to ask why you don't just ride hard boots? Like the 90s carvers did.
I do sometimes
Curious with all you tinkering through the years where you've ended up with forward lean.
@@KrisMcphee Good question... I used to run a ton of forward lean but I've backed off in recent years, not sure if that change coincided with riding wider boards or not.
Now I put my boot in the binding (on the workbench) and crank up the lean about two degrees more lean than my boot has. Driver X has 5 degrees, not sure about my new Insanos.
This way there's not so much boot deformation, and there's no gap between my boot and the heelcup when riding so less boot out potential.
It's yet another compromise thing. The more lean you have the quicker the heel edge engages but the slower the toe edge engages...
Usually ends up close to the higher end of forward on most bindings, a hair more in the rear than the front foot. Not so much that it becomes awkward to stand up with base flat on flat ground.
@cherrycarves I never thought about the slower toe side engagement thing. Makes sense though. I tend to run a lot of lean on the back and moderate on the front. For reference though I've become a bit lazy in that I ride one board, with one stance for everything all the time. So I run lower angles (15,3). I love the quick heelside engagement that lots of lean gives me and toeside carves are easier to rail so that might be why I haven't considered the loss in that engagement. Have been very seriously getting back into having a carving dedicated setup lately which led me to stumble on your channel. Love the dry humor btw. Also really like the hot tip to hit up a ski shop for a ski boot liner. Do they sell them or have you been given them for free?
@@KrisMcphee Yeah, I buy them but they're way cheaper than the aftermarket Intuition liners and I like the hard plastic tongue up front because I can offset them a bit for the direction where I apply pressure.
What does your dedicated carving setup look like?
@@cherrycarves well at this point I've already blown the budget for ski gear outfitting my kids with bigger gear and buying myself and the Mrs new daily driver boards. So my thought for the short term is to grab a pair of ski boot liners to swap out when needed and fashion some canting rubber as per your direction. Likely next year before I can actually get away with a proper new board/bindings. I just replaced my recent board with a K2 Passport 160 which for my 145lb weight and size 9 boot should make a decent groomer machine but versatile enough for pow. Here's to hoping for lots of snow early so we can get at it.
Some serious stank is in James' Boots.... dropthebody sent me.😆
I had to look up "stank" in the urban dictionary to see if there was another meaning... Still not sure which meaning was intended above, but I would like to think there's some truth to both.
Say hi to DTB for me and check out the secrets part I video, that one is more popular.
And everyone calls me crazy, because I change the direction of the ankle strap 😅
Ha! I thought I invented that!
There is a video from Kenichi Takizawa (from LateProject) where he does the same. He’s riding 15/0 and never go too steep but got a beautiful technique for medium speed carves !