What do u mean they don't ground to earth in the city. Take a walk by any house in the city that has updated wiring. It is grounded to earth as per code.
LOL, I am going to submit this video to the Fluke Design Department. I want a meter using this million year old handle design which fits into any hand and is fun to hold. Why reinvent the wheel when designers have this perfect shape dangling in front of them all the time.... makes no fucking sense!
Mirko You Sir, are right, it is the perfect shape! But where do you store it, wenn you don't use it? I heard that fluke has solved this problem for 50%, and provide all male buyers with a storage case.
They will just answer "read the f*ing user manual". To measure voltage he must put the wire to the very bottom. He actually did it by accident at 12:54 and started to have a reading but he didn't notice...
The goal here is to accurately measure voltage not just detecting it. Try to do that without contact... I don't own that device and was so astonished to see this review that I took 1 minute to Google "T6 600 user manual" and another minute to read the first page before saying anything about it... download.fluke.com/files/T6______qreng0200.pdf
The only problem is that this particular handle design leaves the average male quite exhausted after only a minute or two, not the "hours" that AvE claims.
Blake N +1 on having to remove the film off the screen 😂😂😂 I bought one of these steaming turd piles, after waiting MONTHS for it to show up it did exactly what this one did. I got a replacement and noticed unless the wire is bum fucking the inside of that notch and perfectly centered it will not work
There was no circuit to be completed so the numbers coming up were some sort of intereference is all i can assume. The probe was lying on the bench at the time outside of the unit. Possiby EMF from the transformer getting picked up by the probe?
Looked in the fluke manual and propably figured the mistery. For the FieldSense to work properly according to manual: wire must contact the bottom of the fork opening. The only time it happens in the video is when AvE slowly disconnects the plug from isolating transformer 12:54 to 12:57 then in 12:58 he nudges the meter and the wire moves away from correct position. It doesn't work in the first try because that black thing has a square cross-section and during measurement it doesn't touch that small dimple in the middle of the measuring clamps. Sorry for my english, I'm not a native speaker.
He probably will and then release a video saying how broken and gimmicky the meter is even if it works. And I agree with that because the only use for "contactless" voltage measurement is checking if some random wire that we want to cut is live, and we don't know if it's connected to anything or where is it powered from.
GreenAppelPie I don't anticipate they will lose much quality on their high end products. They've been tinkering with gadgets like the model in this video and generally going after a wider market though. In those cheaper and more niche products, I think it will show that they were less exacting.
I've been using one for a few weeks at work. It's finicky but once you figure it out it works fine. But it is only good for g-whizz checking not for checking for work.
@Ave To my knowledge the top cable on power lines is actually for the lightning protection, as it grounds all the masts together. So if lightning were to strike you wouldn’t get a huge voltage differential at one mast resulting in a gradually decreasing high voltage cone even around the bottom of the mast, but instead the voltage would be spread across all masts hence decreasing the risk. As for the three phase power transmission on landlines, you usually have a Delta configuration for the high voltage transmission. So there are just the 3 phases and no neutral connection. As it gets transformed down to a low voltage for the end user the secondary of the transformer is set up in a Star configuration, whereas the star point is the connection for the neutral. The neutral can then be grounded directly at the transformer and passed on to the consumer or as you mentioned, it can be grounded directly at each household by using a grounding rod.
@12:54 it worked while you were holding both the plug and socket when inspecting which side was the neutral. I hope you are able to get to the bottom of this. Also the blue and white part internal you noted was a capacitor bank of some sorts looks like a high precision resistor or resistor divider network.
That ceramic board is very likely a high precision laser trimmed resistor for the multi meter. They are stable and can be trimmed to a very precise resistance. Ideal for current sensing or measuring voltage.
You should do a BOLTR on Keurig coffee machines... Because it's highly discouraged to take them apart, cuz there's "no serviceable parts", etc., and it's said they won't go back together.... >do it...
What?! No 32 oz whack-a-mole un-boxing? That was an awfully precise and delicate method of extraction that you employed there with the metal melting stick. It was almost as if you cared for the little Fluke T6. Also, your capacitive/inductive sensor handle might be a tad small for those of us with big hands. 😉
In US residential power systems, all the neutrals and grounds are joined together at a bus bar in the home's breaker panel--not at the transformer on the pole. The bus bar is also joined via a solid-conductor copper wire to a steel stake that's driven into the ground. In older homes you sometimes see the ground provided by a wire clamped to a copper plumbing pipe, which is dangerous because modern use of plastic (PVC, etc.) interrupts the ground connection.
I sure enjoy your videos love the colorful language and pulling no punches how you do. If the product sucks you just say it like it is . Great videos keep them coming
The ceramic board you saw at 8:50 is a precision resisitor, probably laser etched those are pretty expensive parts but they are very commonly used in multimeters, I have an old benchtop fluke precision meter and it has one however the lcd in it recently failed due to a problem with it bleeding so im in the process of replacing the lcd with a 7 segment dsplay
I enjoy the hell out of these videos. The wife, not so much especially after a 6 hour binge watch! I have gained a shit load of knowledge from you! Keep it up!👍🏿👍🏿
I have binge-watched every one of your videos and gave me the knowledge to repair my dads old sawzall. I love the shmoo man, keep up the idiot/knowledgable stuff man. Love your show
Rob Szabo you only need 4A(0000) in XHHW aluminum for 200A, not 250 MCM let alone copper in THHN see the chart in the link www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts
AvE keep in mind that I'm not a sparky, i just sell parts to them. I sell a whole hell of a lot of 0000 XHHW and URD(both aluminum) with 200a meters and 200a house panels. I don't know, but i can infer. Also i browse the Dr. Watts and Ugly,s bpols sometimes (but never the NEC2017, fucking boring)... Side note, use deox when working with aluminum.
whatbuttondoipush fair enough but, in the spirit of shitting on the tool, 250mcm is still the smallest conductor size for 200A in 75'C aluminum. Not too mention that one you get down to lower temp rated conductors, the conductor size increases with ampacity rating even faster (60'C copper would need to be 250MCM and 60'C aluminum would need to be 350MCM). A proper tool would fit all conductors for the spec range.
It's your fault the Fluke didn't work. When you were opening the package with your soldering iron some of those hot pixies got into it via induction and that's all she wrote. Hey, even the best have Bad-out-of-the-box issues from time to time. You got one.
no he just didn't read the user manual: to measure voltage he must go near a single wire and push that wire fully inside the gap in the red half circle zone... download.fluke.com/files/T6______qreng0200.pdf
He clarified it with a follow-up video and he came to the same conclusion that Specific Ocean says in his comment. The tool is a piece of junk. It may be useful for a home gamer, but useless for a pro.
What happened to the videos from 2016 where you reviewed the Fluke multimeters for Chinese market? I remember you had some, but couldn't find them. I found a link from a forum which pointed to a video that's no longer available.
Mark Smith I think the way this thing functions dictated the shape. They're sending a radio signal out as a reference that interacts with the line voltage and measuring the difference.
I think the main problem is that the "button" on the back is not connecting to the black probe through the internal bridge (that can be seen when he opened the back). The black lead should not be connected to ground but "capacitively" connected to ground. I think that second that it worked (at around 12 minutes) it was cause AvE touched the black lead's tip and thus grounding (capacitively) the input, it worked. Also, on all these meters, the input impedance is megaohms or more thus you can easily touch the black lead while the red is connected to a live line with no problem.
It is! Dave showed some of those high precision resistors in some of the other high precision bench meters of his. Being that it has shielded parts it wouldnt surprise me it depends on precision opamps and stuff for its contactless magic to work.
Mate, I got an ad for a Rolls Royce on your channel. Do they know you are the pinnacle of achievement, or do they mistake me for some shitcoin billionaire? I don't know. fun to watch, but inexplicable.
you won't be shocked by touching the other lead when plugged into line voltage. I have had the older model t5 600 for 5 years and it lives in my bags, i use it every work day, only have had to change the batteries 2wice and the leads once in the 5 years. very good meter for simple troubleshooting and voltage testing.
totenkopf999 12 gauge is awesome. I prefer a 30-06, a 220 grain bullet at 2800 FPS ensures proper fuckifacation of said goods and evil clamshell packaging.
The line splitter you're using separates the ungrounded conductor from the grounded conductor, so there's a chance you might be on the neutral side of the line splitter when you were trying to check for voltage.
Anyone know why the shielding mentioned around 6:56 is perforated? Only reasoning I can come up with is reduce material. But the operation to cut that at out seems like it'd be more expensive than the cost of the material they'd be saving.
The neutral returns through the ground ? doesn't seem like a good idea, the ground can become dry, also, if a high current is being drawn, there will be a potential difference across the ground, a couple of horses died due to a similar problem but with the ground wire. (Newbury horse racing deaths blamed on electrocution) In the UK the neutral is always a direct wired connection, the earth can be a ground stake, where the loop resistance is high they use a RCCD (GFI).
The hv network in the uk has a local transformer that is wired delta (from the power line) and star on the consumer side, the star point it grounded to earth. several earth connection schemes.
Correct, the star point is also Neutral, and is always directly wired to the consumers property, the planet is not a current carrying component of the electrical system.
Sparky Projects earth return happens all the time in rural areas around 20kv +- some. They tend to have a large ground mat and strict limits on the current density in the ground. That said for years you could make big $$ resolving milk cows tits getting shocked due to non equal potential of the milking equipment. New code has mandated not grounding as such but equal potential binding of all equipment and the ground near the milk barn which has solved the problem for the most part. When you can’t achieve 0v because everything’s energized it’s best to just keep everything equal potential so no current can flow.
You are referring to step potential. This is the result of improperly designed grounding systems not returning back to the Wye or leg of delta that was brought to ground. in other words not bonded correctly. Mike Holt has a good video on it. And grounding in itself has more to do with arresting rogue currents than with protecting people or things from potential. Rural networks are at great risk of lightning strikes due to the long open runs of aerial conductors and thus provisions must be made in the system to eliminate current spikes. Bonding is where the emphasis on safety is placed. Isolation transformers can be used to limit potential as well.
Ground in my residential breaker panel goes directly to a 6'x3/4" copper rod buried right to the hilt in dirt. Outbuilding subpanel nuetral bonded to ground in the panel, so we go both ways.
What is purpose for big selector knob? Should it be in voltage measuring position when trying to measure voltage? :) In this video selector was always in AMPERE measuring position..
He's said in past videos he doesnt accept tools from companies. He wants to buy them off the shelf like a normal guy and have them work. He feels like the company could tweak the model they give him to be more accurate than it actually is.
not to point out the obvious but did you check continuity of the lead? When you were wiggling wires trying to get the plug undone at the end the fluke showed a reading briefly. shitty leads seem to be very common on a lot of newer meters
Just curious are you supposed to ground the black and put your finger on the contact on the back of the case, tuff to tell if you were doing that or not.
I am a starting car mechanic and am looking for a new good Multimeter to use for cars and at home. I thinking about the Fluke 87 or the Fluke 88, which would you reccomend? The 88 has no true RMS, do I need that for screwing around at home, also with 3 phase 380 volts? Could you do a video on that?
Dear uncle Bumblefuck, i'm sitting on a winc, grilling sausage in my huge oven and watching your videos, while drinking beer. Please, do video about canucistanian beavers!
On a 208 3 phase you center tap a wye wound transformer just to get your 120~ so even if you "balanced" the load if say you had 3 different 15amp120v loads w/e that might be....and put one each phase you would still have current on the neutral back to transformer or am I wrong only been elechicken for 3 years now so please educate me if I'm misunderstanding
I see the hot/line/active side of your outlet is on the Right side where as here in AU its on the left on account off electrons change direction when crossing the equator.
RTV it and rested in case it was defective? A fellow at work got the company to get him the T6-1000. Says it works. Trying to get my meat hooks on it to check it out myself...
The other reviews that I've seen show it sensing voltage on bare wires not through a fancy plug like yours and very close to the bottom of the saddle. My curiosity is if the bare wire has to be closer to the sensor.
Correct me if I’m wrong. But by holding the ground button with your thumb doesn’t necessarily mean your grounded, if your wearin shoes anyway. Does it still not work if you hold the ground button and ground yourself out with the other hand?
the manual said that it needed a capacitive connection to ground at 4:59, wouldn't that mean you should use a capacitor in series with the black lead in order for it to recognize ground instead of connecting it directly?
What’s the big deal about reading frequency without contact? My plain fluke reads frequency when I lay the meter leads on the load cables of generators, or even get em near the breaker. Where ever I can find a little electric noise.
Still using a couple of the T5 meters for basic work - They've held up well to abuse, having a fork instead of a pivoting clamp, attached leads, not much for wires flopping around inside to rattle loose. Short on features, but only issue I've had is a dead segment on one of the displays - probably contacts between the LCD and board. I expect to see more of the non contact line voltage measurement come in to play for arc flash safety, so we might as well get it figured out. Where's Dewclaw? He'll either get it sorted or break it proper.
If you ignore the gimmicky volt sense feature, do you think this would be worth buying over an old Fluke T5? I think the T6 is true RMS and also measures up to 200A, where the T5 only does up to 100A. Looking for buy a compact elechickens meter just for basic shit out in the field and whatnots.
![บุกร้านไอศกรีม VJ วุ้นเส้น !!!! [ดูคลิปเต็มหน้าช่อง] #Short | PANG ORNHIRA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/g549nEhKZdc/mqdefault.jpg)
What do u mean they don't ground to earth in the city. Take a walk by any house in the city that has updated wiring. It is grounded to earth as per code.
*NEUTRAL CURRENT DOESN'T GO THROUGH EARTH* Cork stuffing makes you deaf. Where the fuck are all you idiots coming from?
Nah hes right, dont think ive ever seen a house not on the earth
Lol owned
Weak is The Ground in this one
Doitrightcmrs I
LOL, I am going to submit this video to the Fluke Design Department. I want a meter using this million year old handle design which fits into any hand and is fun to hold.
Why reinvent the wheel when designers have this perfect shape dangling in front of them all the time.... makes no fucking sense!
Mirko
You Sir, are right, it is the perfect shape!
But where do you store it, wenn you don't use it?
I heard that fluke has solved this problem for 50%, and provide all male buyers with a storage case.
Keep it on what you had but you have to hit the yellow button to activate the self ground feature
They will just answer "read the f*ing user manual". To measure voltage he must put the wire to the very bottom. He actually did it by accident at 12:54 and started to have a reading but he didn't notice...
The goal here is to accurately measure voltage not just detecting it. Try to do that without contact... I don't own that device and was so astonished to see this review that I took 1 minute to Google "T6 600 user manual" and another minute to read the first page before saying anything about it...
download.fluke.com/files/T6______qreng0200.pdf
The only problem is that this particular handle design leaves the average male quite exhausted after only a minute or two, not the "hours" that AvE claims.
It didn't work because you didn't peel the plastic film off the screen.
Blake N +1 on having to remove the film off the screen 😂😂😂
I bought one of these steaming turd piles, after waiting MONTHS for it to show up it did exactly what this one did. I got a replacement and noticed unless the wire is bum fucking the inside of that notch and perfectly centered it will not work
@@SeptrothFFXI that was my experience as well
And grinding didn't seem to matter
the Bosch toy chainsaw is sorely missed.
Just here to read all the comments about how it worked for just a second.....
If you're careful you only need a second.
But but it did work for a second there lol
I honestly started watching these videos for the humor, but damn, I'm learning.
So what happened at 12:53?
Tyz3r796 I saw that too. It definitely worked for a moment.
that was just a fluke
There was no circuit to be completed so the numbers coming up were some sort of intereference is all i can assume. The probe was lying on the bench at the time outside of the unit. Possiby EMF from the transformer getting picked up by the probe?
I think the lead touched the metal of the table when he set it down.
clever method of getting user feedback and 'buying' views to the video explaining it when the the topic has a high demand.
Looked in the fluke manual and propably figured the mistery. For the FieldSense to work properly according to manual: wire must contact the bottom of the fork opening. The only time it happens in the video is when AvE slowly disconnects the plug from isolating transformer 12:54 to 12:57 then in 12:58 he nudges the meter and the wire moves away from correct position. It doesn't work in the first try because that black thing has a square cross-section and during measurement it doesn't touch that small dimple in the middle of the measuring clamps. Sorry for my english, I'm not a native speaker.
Eurefile is correct Doktoreq written English is more than passable in this native speakers book!
Maybe AvE can retest
He probably will and then release a video saying how broken and gimmicky the meter is even if it works. And I agree with that because the only use for "contactless" voltage measurement is checking if some random wire that we want to cut is live, and we don't know if it's connected to anything or where is it powered from.
Replying so AvE can see.
eirefile. I agree with that i know people that are born in the USA that talk far worse then some of the non native of other country's.
LOL love when you get all fired up! Literally heard the spit come out of your mouth and break the sound barrier.
It worked for a second at 12:55
Jake H it read 125 your right
Jake H I thought I saw that too
Fluke has been really big on the marketing wank lately, seems they decided it's time to take the Peugeot path.
Does it mean they will start manufacturing coffee mills and bicycles soon?
LaterMeansBrick the finest coffee mills and bicycles.
GreenAppelPie I don't anticipate they will lose much quality on their high end products. They've been tinkering with gadgets like the model in this video and generally going after a wider market though. In those cheaper and more niche products, I think it will show that they were less exacting.
ISTM that if they're into marketing wank, they'd have used AvE's ergonomic shape design.
does that mean it will rust and die in the middle of the road for no fucking reason?
Yo...melt towards your chum, not your thumb
It's not for detecting peckers, it's a pecker that detects.
David C a detector pecker?
I've been using one for a few weeks at work. It's finicky but once you figure it out it works fine. But it is only good for g-whizz checking not for checking for work.
"I even changed the batteries!"
@Ave To my knowledge the top cable on power lines is actually for the lightning protection, as it grounds all the masts together. So if lightning were to strike you wouldn’t get a huge voltage differential at one mast resulting in a gradually decreasing high voltage cone even around the bottom of the mast, but instead the voltage would be spread across all masts hence decreasing the risk. As for the three phase power transmission on landlines, you usually have a Delta configuration for the high voltage transmission. So there are just the 3 phases and no neutral connection. As it gets transformed down to a low voltage for the end user the secondary of the transformer is set up in a Star configuration, whereas the star point is the connection for the neutral. The neutral can then be grounded directly at the transformer and passed on to the consumer or as you mentioned, it can be grounded directly at each household by using a grounding rod.
@12:54 it worked while you were holding both the plug and socket when inspecting which side was the neutral. I hope you are able to get to the bottom of this. Also the blue and white part internal you noted was a capacitor bank of some sorts looks like a high precision resistor or resistor divider network.
That ceramic board is very likely a high precision laser trimmed resistor for the multi meter. They are stable and can be trimmed to a very precise resistance. Ideal for current sensing or measuring voltage.
You should do a BOLTR on Keurig coffee machines...
Because it's highly discouraged to take them apart, cuz there's "no serviceable parts", etc., and it's said they won't go back together....
>do it...
MrJamesonStyles dang, I need to find that one....
There you go I like seeing you doing electrical products AvE!
You have to stand in a steel pot filled with salty water while using that device.
you forgot to mechanically ground the pot then that jeesless bastard will really chooch
aluminium works just fine.
Just stick the ground right up the pooper choocher.
What was the unit displaying at 12:55?
What?! No 32 oz whack-a-mole un-boxing? That was an awfully precise and delicate method of extraction that you employed there with the metal melting stick. It was almost as if you cared for the little Fluke T6. Also, your capacitive/inductive sensor handle might be a tad small for those of us with big hands. 😉
In US residential power systems, all the neutrals and grounds are joined together at a bus bar in the home's breaker panel--not at the transformer on the pole. The bus bar is also joined via a solid-conductor copper wire to a steel stake that's driven into the ground. In older homes you sometimes see the ground provided by a wire clamped to a copper plumbing pipe, which is dangerous because modern use of plastic (PVC, etc.) interrupts the ground connection.
I sure enjoy your videos love the colorful language and pulling no punches how you do. If the product sucks you just say it like it is . Great videos keep them coming
Looks like a bunch of guys on the Amazon are saying that the field sense is FUBAR for them too, even after getting replacement units. Thanks, Fluke!
*handle not to scale*
Thanks Ave, I finally understand the difference between neutral and ground...
The ceramic board you saw at 8:50 is a precision resisitor, probably laser etched those are pretty expensive parts but they are very commonly used in multimeters, I have an old benchtop fluke precision meter and it has one however the lcd in it recently failed due to a problem with it bleeding so im in the process of replacing the lcd with a 7 segment dsplay
I see a MP3 label in the board. Maybe you forgot to plug in the music
No guy is going to hold that is his hand for hours....99% will get bored and sleepy after about 10 minutes.
eirefile it takes me 9.5 minutes to clear the wife from the memory banks.
I enjoy the hell out of these videos. The wife, not so much especially after a 6 hour binge watch! I have gained a shit load of knowledge from you! Keep it up!👍🏿👍🏿
I have binge-watched every one of your videos and gave me the knowledge to repair my dads old sawzall. I love the shmoo man, keep up the idiot/knowledgable stuff man. Love your show
thanks for saving me some cash, that why i tune in to your show
Rated for 200 amps but 250mcm with insulation is 17.79mm diameter & the opening between the jaws on this tool is 17.8mm...
Rob Szabo you only need 4A(0000) in XHHW aluminum for 200A, not 250 MCM let alone copper in THHN see the chart in the link www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts
Bro, do you even inrush?
No inrush measurement on this steaming turd.
AvE keep in mind that I'm not a sparky, i just sell parts to them. I sell a whole hell of a lot of 0000 XHHW and URD(both aluminum) with 200a meters and 200a house panels. I don't know, but i can infer. Also i browse the Dr. Watts and Ugly,s bpols sometimes (but never the NEC2017, fucking boring)... Side note, use deox when working with aluminum.
whatbuttondoipush fair enough but, in the spirit of shitting on the tool, 250mcm is still the smallest conductor size for 200A in 75'C aluminum. Not too mention that one you get down to lower temp rated conductors, the conductor size increases with ampacity rating even faster (60'C copper would need to be 250MCM and 60'C aluminum would need to be 350MCM). A proper tool would fit all conductors for the spec range.
Thanks for the review.....I was soo close in purchasing one of these until you reviewed it.....now I am having second thoughts with Fluke....
Thanks for the review. I love my T5 and was looking at the T6 because I left my T5 in the rain. Looks like I'll be sticking with the trusty T5.
It's your fault the Fluke didn't work. When you were opening the package with your soldering iron some of those hot pixies got into it via induction and that's all she wrote. Hey, even the best have Bad-out-of-the-box issues from time to time. You got one.
no he just didn't read the user manual: to measure voltage he must go near a single wire and push that wire fully inside the gap in the red half circle zone...
download.fluke.com/files/T6______qreng0200.pdf
c muller
Manuals are for people without personally designed screwdrivers
oh you mean like he did? the thing is way too fuckin sensitive to be useful
He clarified it with a follow-up video and he came to the same conclusion that Specific Ocean says in his comment. The tool is a piece of junk. It may be useful for a home gamer, but useless for a pro.
I’m confused. Where’s the Amazon affiliate link?
On Wranglerstars channel.
Josh G - haha
Bierkameel good one
Oh that was satisfying as you opened it with a solder iron while giving the intro. Nice touch.
What happened to the videos from 2016 where you reviewed the Fluke multimeters for Chinese market? I remember you had some, but couldn't find them. I found a link from a forum which pointed to a video that's no longer available.
I am watching this holding my 'meter'. 😯😉😁
Typo ? Maybe peter😂
Give it a scratch.
It's interesting how holding your probe in one hand feels so much different then holding it in the other.
Different strokes for different folks. It takes all sorts, eh.
The problem is with the shape, totally wrong ergonomically. Fluke need AVE for design ergonomics
Mark Smith I think the way this thing functions dictated the shape. They're sending a radio signal out as a reference that interacts with the line voltage and measuring the difference.
I think the main problem is that the "button" on the back is not connecting to the black probe through the internal bridge (that can be seen when he opened the back). The black lead should not be connected to ground but "capacitively" connected to ground. I think that second that it worked (at around 12 minutes) it was cause AvE touched the black lead's tip and thus grounding (capacitively) the input, it worked.
Also, on all these meters, the input impedance is megaohms or more thus you can easily touch the black lead while the red is connected to a live line with no problem.
Roflol.....you can have this thing in your hands for hours, love you man
Thanks AvE, now I know what not to buy xD. 8:37 I think that is a resistor hybrid network.
Did he actually RTFM?
It is! Dave showed some of those high precision resistors in some of the other high precision bench meters of his.
Being that it has shielded parts it wouldnt surprise me it depends on precision opamps and stuff for its contactless magic to work.
The fluke 303 is a good cheep meter with an integrated clamp. Worth looking at.
Mate, I got an ad for a Rolls Royce on your channel. Do they know you are the pinnacle of achievement, or do they mistake me for some shitcoin billionaire? I don't know. fun to watch, but inexplicable.
"Pickle Rick!!!"
Whisky Dick!!!
Hey AvE, you mentioned a video you did on residential electricals? I couldn't find it, but I'd like to watch it. Link?
you won't be shocked by touching the other lead when plugged into line voltage. I have had the older model t5 600 for 5 years and it lives in my bags, i use it every work day, only have had to change the batteries 2wice and the leads once in the 5 years. very good meter for simple troubleshooting and voltage testing.
The milling machine is still the best box opener
How about a 12 gauge with 00 buck?
Yeah, but after the last video I'll wager the head's still out of tram, and who wants to dick around with that?
totenkopf999 12 gauge is awesome. I prefer a 30-06, a 220 grain bullet at 2800 FPS ensures proper fuckifacation of said goods and evil clamshell packaging.
It showed almost correct voltage at 12:55 timespot
Almost ... but no seegar...
The line splitter you're using separates the ungrounded conductor from the grounded conductor, so there's a chance you might be on the neutral side of the line splitter when you were trying to check for voltage.
Anyone know why the shielding mentioned around 6:56 is perforated? Only reasoning I can come up with is reduce material. But the operation to cut that at out seems like it'd be more expensive than the cost of the material they'd be saving.
The neutral returns through the ground ? doesn't seem like a good idea, the ground can become dry, also, if a high current is being drawn, there will be a potential difference across the ground, a couple of horses died due to a similar problem but with the ground wire.
(Newbury horse racing deaths blamed on electrocution)
In the UK the neutral is always a direct wired connection, the earth can be a ground stake, where the loop resistance is high they use a RCCD (GFI).
The hv network in the uk has a local transformer that is wired delta (from the power line) and star on the consumer side, the star point it grounded to earth. several earth connection schemes.
Look up SWER. Single Wire Earth Return.
Correct, the star point is also Neutral, and is always directly wired to the consumers property, the planet is not a current carrying component of the electrical system.
Sparky Projects earth return happens all the time in rural areas around 20kv +- some. They tend to have a large ground mat and strict limits on the current density in the ground. That said for years you could make big $$ resolving milk cows tits getting shocked due to non equal potential of the milking equipment. New code has mandated not grounding as such but equal potential binding of all equipment and the ground near the milk barn which has solved the problem for the most part. When you can’t achieve 0v because everything’s energized it’s best to just keep everything equal potential so no current can flow.
You are referring to step potential. This is the result of improperly designed grounding systems not returning back to the Wye or leg of delta that was brought to ground. in other words not bonded correctly. Mike Holt has a good video on it. And grounding in itself has more to do with arresting rogue currents than with protecting people or things from potential. Rural networks are at great risk of lightning strikes due to the long open runs of aerial conductors and thus provisions must be made in the system to eliminate current spikes. Bonding is where the emphasis on safety is placed. Isolation transformers can be used to limit potential as well.
I wonder if that's typical of this model of meter, or is it... _a fluke._ (rimshot)
The old joke is that the company's slogan should be, "If it works, it's a Fluke."
Ground in my residential breaker panel goes directly to a 6'x3/4" copper rod buried right to the hilt in dirt. Outbuilding subpanel nuetral bonded to ground in the panel, so we go both ways.
What is purpose for big selector knob? Should it be in voltage measuring position when trying to measure voltage? :) In this video selector was always in AMPERE measuring position..
Fluke has been shit since Philips took them over.
I imagine Fluke will be contacting you with a new meter... Or, if they're smart they will.
Hardwyre don't think so the industry is focused on being contactless recently
lmao
He's said in past videos he doesnt accept tools from companies. He wants to buy them off the shelf like a normal guy and have them work. He feels like the company could tweak the model they give him to be more accurate than it actually is.
not to point out the obvious but did you check continuity of the lead?
When you were wiggling wires trying to get the plug undone at the end the fluke showed a reading briefly.
shitty leads seem to be very common on a lot of newer meters
Just curious are you supposed to ground the black and put your finger on the contact on the back of the case, tuff to tell if you were doing that or not.
Loving the AVE!
Reading the manual it says "SINGLE WIRE ONLY" placed within the RED marked section of the probe...right in that crotch part.
hankus253 yup, ave didn't rtfm
he did that. why are all you guys acting like ave never used a clamp before
Gigs, read the above, rtfm, then watch again
bonjourmssr he put a single wire in the crotch part. He was using it correctly.
Gigs yeah at 12:55, and then it was working
That ceramic board is the resistor divider network. It's used to get a precision voltage reference.
I am a starting car mechanic and am looking for a new good Multimeter to use for cars and at home.
I thinking about the Fluke 87 or the Fluke 88, which would you reccomend?
The 88 has no true RMS, do I need that for screwing around at home, also with 3 phase 380 volts?
Could you do a video on that?
If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is, then break it some more, then label it as a fluke... :P
The sodddder gun opening screwed it up. Jk
I wrote you an email a few months ago, you're my hero!
im really confused by it working for a moment while you have a non-conductive part of the black lead in your hand?
Dear uncle Bumblefuck, i'm sitting on a winc, grilling sausage in my huge oven and watching your videos, while drinking beer. Please, do video about canucistanian beavers!
The 4 legged or 2 legged kind of beaver
Maybe the yellow button needs to be held, while it's sensing
Yes you need to push the yellow button once to set it to v sense mode
Nope I have one, it’s extremely finnicy to get it to work. The one I got originally was a broken steaming pile of shit
On a 208 3 phase you center tap a wye wound transformer just to get your 120~ so even if you "balanced" the load if say you had 3 different 15amp120v loads w/e that might be....and put one each phase you would still have current on the neutral back to transformer or am I wrong only been elechicken for 3 years now so please educate me if I'm misunderstanding
I see the hot/line/active side of your outlet is on the Right side where as here in AU its on the left on account off electrons change direction when crossing the equator.
Defective? Swap it out and followup.
RTV it and rested in case it was defective? A fellow at work got the company to get him the T6-1000. Says it works. Trying to get my meat hooks on it to check it out myself...
Had one. Broke after 6 months light use. Pure junk. In the bucket you go.
The other reviews that I've seen show it sensing voltage on bare wires not through a fancy plug like yours and very close to the bottom of the saddle. My curiosity is if the bare wire has to be closer to the sensor.
Correct me if I’m wrong. But by holding the ground button with your thumb doesn’t necessarily mean your grounded, if your wearin shoes anyway. Does it still not work if you hold the ground button and ground yourself out with the other hand?
I got a t6 1000 and it works perfectly so far . I guese it's just down to karma as you don't like tunnoks tea cakes ! (Ireland vijeo)
I have been using one too for months, and it works great. My only complaint is the accuracy which I wish was better than 4% in most cases.
It's just a fluke.
Oversoul225 that's why it's a "tester" not a "meter".
Mine works must be the user error. Most people are not smart using tools let alone multi meters.
I didn't think it's possible not to like Tunnoks tea cakes! Weird??? mmmmmmm... tea cakes!
the manual said that it needed a capacitive connection to ground at 4:59, wouldn't that mean you should use a capacitor in series with the black lead in order for it to recognize ground instead of connecting it directly?
It worked when you had it partially plugged in, does it only work when theres no current flow?
Thats not real Fluke it looks domestic
Call me cynical... But I don't feel comfortable using a meter where I'm the ground...
NFG thanks for the heads up!
12:55 - showing the correct voltage by field-sense. Looks ok?
You need to only have the hot wire in the jaws. If you have the hot and neutral you will have 0 volts.
You don't say.
Ooh, live stream trying again 😄
O but he did
ManWithBeard1990 the current in the neutral is flowing in the opposite direction of the hot wire so they cancel out the magnetic field
Jason Harrison unless the mass of the ass is constant and the heat of her meat is directionally proportional to the angle of the dangle. Just sayn
@4:40 How many of you hippies backed away from your computer screen so's not to get your scraggly hair caught in the grinder?
I was talking about nose and ear hair :o)
I was thinking the exact same thing dude, but I'm bald
What’s the big deal about reading frequency without contact?
My plain fluke reads frequency when I lay the meter leads on the load cables of generators, or even get em near the breaker.
Where ever I can find a little electric noise.
That wooden handled flat head screwdriver, what make is it? and where can one get themselves a piece of screwdriving art like that?
It is all too rare that a review ends negatively. Keep up the good work Uncle Bumblefuck!!
Great vid thanks.
The meter started to show power when you were pulling apart the cords. 12:56
Still using a couple of the T5 meters for basic work - They've held up well to abuse, having a fork instead of a pivoting clamp, attached leads, not much for wires flopping around inside to rattle loose. Short on features, but only issue I've had is a dead segment on one of the displays - probably contacts between the LCD and board. I expect to see more of the non contact line voltage measurement come in to play for arc flash safety, so we might as well get it figured out. Where's Dewclaw? He'll either get it sorted or break it proper.
AVE check your vidjeo. at the end when you were unplugging the power connector the T6 showed ground and the voltage reading.
Thought about reviewing that walkabout DIY thing that's always the ad for your vidjeyos?
So do you get voltage on that pad if you have the black lead in the case and you put the red to a source?
Loved the new unboxing tool
If you ignore the gimmicky volt sense feature, do you think this would be worth buying over an old Fluke T5? I think the T6 is true RMS and also measures up to 200A, where the T5 only does up to 100A. Looking for buy a compact elechickens meter just for basic shit out in the field and whatnots.
How far will an AvErage rural supply's ground/neutral propagate?
Interesting...
Have you tried Brymen meters? Really inerested in the Brymen multimeters/insulator testers units.
What was the cost on that custom flat head screwdriver? I'd love to have myself one!
In rural Australia, we have SWER (Single Wire Earth Return)