That 9000 has arguably the best Saab engine of the lot B234R. They are seriously strong 400hp on stock internals is quite possible. The torque is incredible. They also seems to last forever, had a classic 900 Carlsson and I did 300,000 (hard miles) in it then sold it to my mate who put another 200,000 (to date) on it all with original internals, just oil change every 6,000. Amazing machines!
I just found your channel and thought "A quality channel with car content". When I saw the number of views honestly I was a little shocked. I don't know how you don't have much more but I want to tell you that you are doing a very good job. The quality of the footage, the thumbnails is brilliant. And maybe this info helps you : this exact video got into my recommendations 2 times in the last few hours.
Hi! Thank you so much for this! We're trying our very best to get the algorithm on our side but it seems like we're not there yet. Thanks for sharing that info, that's very interesting 🙏 and also thanks for the kind words, that's motivating! I'm trying my utmost best with the title, thumbnail and video Quality combo 😄 there's a lot more stuff planned for this year so it's a good time to catch up on the videos and follow along. Welcome 🏁
I'm sure you probably know this but you need to put dielectric grease on direct ignition cassette holes where the spark plug goes. It makes sure that the spark stays inside of that rubber boot. Love the car. Have several Saab 9000 myself.
Thanks for the tip! Never heard of dielectric grease before. Never heard it mentioned before as well so I'll put it on my 'to buy' list and I'll apply it later on. Thanks!
Thanks for getting into this car and sharing the details. DJ_PaulTUK, in his comments below, has a decent understanding of this age of car and you're doing ok - so far. Supportive suggestions: 1) That's a TCS car - make sure you carefully clean a) the throttle body flap regularly and the electrical contacts on the side, b) the valves on the bulkhead and inner wheel-arch, including the electrical contacts c) the coolant tubes in and out of the throttle body, d)the air-mass-meter with the electrical cleaner as well - even with the auto-burn-off mode, cleaning the carbon off the platinum filament is a good investment - and the connectors, of course. 2) Clean the big, round electrical connector contacts halfway down the bulkhead - they often go green and will throw weird "check engine/radiator/oil" error messages. 3) When you replaced the vacuum lines, did you remember the one to the turbo boost gauge? Look for cracking at the joints/interfaces in the bulkhead which gives a great whoosh sound, but kills boost. 9000's are useless when the vacuum lines go bad - replace with suitable size flexible diesel-fuel line hose and they will never go bad again 4) Make sure the one way valve between the cylinder head and bulkhead TCS valve is good and the right way around. Seen them killing the performance too. Similarly, all the 'top-hat' rubber bushings in and out of the rocker cover need to be nice and tight - when they start to go soft - change them. They will kill your drive-ability as well. 5) >50% chance the APC valve is dead or dying. Terribly unreliable. I have stopped looking for new T5-type valves - not sure they are available any longer and even if they are, they are as consumable as plugs and filters. Replace with a manual boost valve and adjust so that boost only goes no more than half way into the red on full boost and you'll be OK. It will be a dance between adjusting the waste gate actuator and the boost control valve to get it right. More than that and you'll probably be wondering why your engine has died because the knock sensor won't be able to retard the boost and ignition to save the engine from detonation... A failed APC valve may be why your boost was on base value. I'd also check what your mechanic did and that he hasn't bypassed it and cranked up boost. Doesn't help drive-ability or longevity. Whatever anyone says here, cranking up the boost by virtue of lengthening the waste gate actuator valve rod is not a great way to keep this car driving for a long time. If you want to save the engine, with greater boost, run the engine on the highest octane fuel you can buy - do not skimp on that. It actually provides slightly better distance per litre at the same time per my experience at least. 6) I should have a 'spare' set of matched APC red controller and fueling computers back in the UK if you ever want to venture into that arena. I also have an Abbott upgrade intercooler that did one trip of 750 miles in a 1993 T5 Trionic before I broke the car due to a T5 ECU problem. 7) If you have someone with an ISAT (best) or have to live with TECH-2, then ask them to clear the TCS and fueling system (using a 973 code) which clears the adaptation values. It resets the computer and boost values which allows the car to 'learn' how you drive it. Makes a big difference on the car behaviour. 8) Check the settings on the cruise control cut-off switches on the clutch and brake pedal, that they cut off at the right point in the pedal travel - the shafts are on a miniature ratchet system which you have to reset if they are disturbed. Many service techs have no idea and the switches are then wrongly set (activation tabs usually bent out of shape is a good indicator) which throws a wonky signal to the ETS control computer which then argues with the ETC and fueling systems. 9) Watch the tiny vacuum hose which runs under the TCS throttle body - often will split or disconnect, leading to shitty idling and running but not throw up a TCS CTRL light. 10) Make certain that the earth straps to the engine are clean and tight - both the one from the battery to the gearbox and the one from the top engine mount to the cylinder head. 11) I can't quite see, but it looks like the DI plug may be the old system, rather than the revised version where the final cable was linked through two extension connectors on the side of the battery tray. The old system, where the DI plug was wired directly into the wiring loom could end up being damaged mechanically or overheated as there was not enough play in the wire - if the change was made at the Dealer as a recall, there should be a figure 8 etched or scribed onto the recall plate up beside the electrical connectors underneath the right bonnet hinge. If not, you can still find the wiring loom adapter kit on the well known auction site... 12) Make sure the threads on the Lambda sensor are clean. They can often get corroded and the sensor does not earth correctly leading to the car running rich and poor drive-ability. You can run an extra earth strap and use a jubilee clip to tie it to the outside of the sensor. 13) Make sure you do an A/C calibration and check for errors. Believe it or not, the AC is linked to the ETS system (to adjust idle when the compressor comes on) and if the ACC controller is not calibrated, that impacts the way the car drives. Press the AUTO and sideways arrows together (bottom right hand button - it will need two hands to be comfortable) and hold for 5 or so seconds and it will go into self-calibrate mode. If there are no errors, you'll get a 0 on the screen. If not, it will tell you how many errors you have which will require electronic interrogation to diagnose. You cannot diagnose that problem using the contact switch and check-engine light flash codes on a 1990 onwards vehicle. 14) Bizarrely, take a membership out for the USA Saab Owners Club. Not expensive and the beauty is that they have full online access to the SAAB TIS documentation which includes most of the workshop manuals for the 9000 from 1986 onwards. If they don't have the information, I usually have the manuals they don't have. It has taken 30+ years of scouring all the sources to find them and the diagnostic computers after SAAB Sweden told the dealers to return all the ISAT's to Sweden in 1996, for dumping in the trash, when they moved to OBD-II. Not sure what Swedish is for 'boneheads' but they were following EU and American orders... :((
Yep! Been there with the DI Cassette and I replaced all the rubber lines (intercooler, intake, all coolant lines, vacuum lines) and the Trionic system is sublime! Greatly and easily tuneable! Fun and well explained to the generic viewer! Nice that this video recommended! Good luck and keep up the videos! Mine is stage 2, B205 engine, making around 250 hp 350 nm. Very nice with in combination with a cabrio!
I've never tapped into the Trionic myself but I would love to give it a go! Vacuum lines have been changed too, car runs so much more smoothly now it's incredible what those little things do!
@@Retroschaft indeed! Bad vacuum lines mess up the fuel mixture and boost regulation, from what I’ve personally seen! Such a small and cheap and easy piece to replace.
The red DI cassette on B2*4 engines also do the knock detect. they pass 60v across the plug, which is detected only when the plasma from the spark occurs, or pre ignition (knock) happens. They are oil filled to cool the coils too so should be stored upright, or left for a while before you start the car. Next service, remove the sump pan and clean the strainer. only debris or no oil kills a Saab. they love boost. (Mine's in an Astra H van but almost went into an MGB GT.) B204L with GT3076r, Deka875cc, 4" inlet, 3" intercooler, 3" downpipe & exhaust, 2" custom Manifold and wastegate, T7 mod, Makes 300bhp on 0.5 bar.
Oil starvation was not an issue on these engines - only the later versions put into the 9-3 and 9-5 where the strainer would block and the engine go kaput. Open up the rocker cover and provided the oil changes have been done regularly on this car, the heads will be a nice bronze/silver colour, no carbon buildup.
@@clarkwilson3505 I have killed 1 bottom end and the replacement engine I bought looked like chocolate inside, then the balance shafts started to seize and squeal. Fully built now with shafts gone. 297bhp on 0.5 bar 😁
Awesome cars! I had a 1997 93. Loved it. I never had to replace a cassette but change the plugs out. I remember something about plug self clean at shut down. You could hear a noise when you turn the car off.
Haha that's amazing! Judging by how many people are enjoying this video we decided to make more Saab videos in the future. Currently planning a 4-day trip to Sweden with this car to visit the Saab museum in October. Multiple part video series incoming 🙌
@@Retroschaft Nice! You should also visit the factory museum in Uusikaupunki, Finland. 90% of the cars there are Saabs. Definitely worth a visit! And it is not that far from the harbour in Turku.
To prolong the life of the ignition cassette , always try to keep it in a vertical position when you take it out , perhaps when changing plugs etc; That is keep the plug connectors pointing down . Nice vid. Have a Saab 93 convertible auto myself , with 2 litre B204 engine .
yes it prolongs the electrolyte soaking the coils but vertical can also sometimes allow the springs that sit between the coils and the spark plugs to fall out and disappear. Ask me how I know after a long misfire diagnosis.........
I own a '96 9000 Aero in Canada, pretty clean undercarriage, next to no rust! Few issues here & there although almost fully stock with 207,000 Miles. Probably over do on the gaskets/fuel injectors though, These engines are fucking brilliant
A little advice with these ignition cassettes. You can pull the black bottom part off and clean the contacts on the internal coils and restretch the springs and clean those ends as well. I have saved a few of them myself when i had my 9000 and still actually have 2 laying around. I do this to my 9-5's now and have yet to need a new one and my cars are running a 19t and 875cc injectors on ethanol. I miss my 9000 though
@@Retroschaft definitely worth doing, that way you can always have a spare in your car just incase the current one dies out. Sometimes it wont show signs of failure until it just dies. I had noticed mine missfire under heavy load on the 2867 i had on it.
You can increase boost 0.7psi by slacking the lock nut of the waste gate actuator rod , and shortening the length . Five full turns of the lock = 3.5psi extra boost.
Yeah the 9000 was a great car, as was all the cars in this Fiat/Saab/Alfa project. Fiat Croma/Saab 9000/Lancia Thema/Alfa 164, altho they all had slightly different personalities. But the Saab was always a little better built, it felt like.
@@Retroschaft Hi guys, I currently own a 9k 2.3t Griffin with around 70'000km on the clock. I also owned other Tipo 4 plateform cars. To be perfectly honest the 9k has always been the best of them from a build quality point of view. I had a gorgeous low km Thema 8.32 and also drove many 164. The 8.32 is to buy for its fabulous engine note and gorgeous interior. But even in perfect condition it never felt as well put together as a 9k. The only 164 I really liked was the Q4 4wd 6 speed. Amazing car to drive and great engine and traction. But build quality inside and electrical components reliability were horrible (seat motors etc...). Excellent channel mate!
I am the 2nd owner of a 1995 VW Jetta Mk3 1.8 clx with a carburettor...previous owner was an old lady so not much kms on the odometer when been bought in 2011...love it...
@@trainslife5638 yes...3 months after she sold it to me she passed @ 93...i have her handwriting in a book where she wrote down every fill of fuel since new...even the service book...
I own a CD with this 2.3 engine, but with no turbo, it is almost bone stock, it never broke down even once since I owned it for 2 years. Everyone was a bit puzzled that this one has no turbo, I feel weird that few people bought 9000 with no turbo.
Yeah I don't know if my experience is a full 'broken down' one as I was always able to just continue driving. Otherwise the car has been fantastic. It even slept outside for a while during the harsh winter and it fired up every single morning when I needed it, as quickly as it fires up in the summer and even after sitting for a few days. This car never ceases to amaze me!
I Have had exactly the same issue. Had to raise up the basepressure from 0.4 to 0.6 or something like that. Another thing is, that those coilpacks usually fail when they get 10years old and so on. I saw that previous coilpack you had seems to be not orginal. Use only SEM-oem coilpack. You can check how old is your coilpack from the coilpack itself. If it is orginal, there is sticker. First year, then manufacturing week, in form like 0947 (2009, week 47)
It's funny to hear you talk about the quirky things in this old 9000, a lot of these things are still true for the B207 which is the same as in my car :D
Nice, Im struggling with my gti, it worked fine for the last 7 months, but yesterday the steering wheel became so stiff that it is very difficult to drive, maybe I have to change the electric steering rack, glad that your fix wasnt that complicated.
Thank you! Sounds not very nice in your case. I know the Saab has a servo pump that's belt driven by the engine which can break sometimes too. But I have no idea what it could be with electric steering 😕
Yeah I've been running a stock Saab 9000 motor for the last 4 years running about 550 horsepower. The only thing I have changed is the bigger intercooler obviously tuning bigger turbo bigger injectors. Great motors to build.
My father workead all his life as a mechanic, he always said that an engine should hold for full load on wide open throttle for long long periods, like going on autobahn on full throttle for many hours, if the engine don't survive that then it is crap... Assuming you have adequate cooling and oil pressure. And do replace the oil. I think saab took a stock 9000T and drove it on Taladega track with wide open throttle, non stop for 100 000 km.
@@andreaskampe9143 Yes, there was a endurance race in the 9000 in the 90's and it "survived" it. Can't remember the name of the race.. Saab made great engines. Too bad GM made them skimp on the T7 engines as they've suffered badly from it with blowby etc.. I myself drive a 9-5 Aero with a rebuilt T5/T7 hybrid engine (T5 cams, pistons and rods) running 360hp on E85 like a champ. Must say it's the best car I've ever driven. R.I.P. Saab
@@andreaskampe9143 they sure did and in 2016 me and my wife went to the 2016 Saab convention in Atlanta and we were able to go on the Talladega super speedway with about 50 other guys at the convention. It was amazing. 5th gear ,top speed, 10 laps. Best 250 bucks I ever spent. That track is super steep. You don't realize it till you're in the car you're sitting totally sideways when you're going around the track. We actually did that in our 1990 Saab 900 convertible. I love saabs that's all we drive.
Noticed how the old DI cassette was glossy while the new one was matte. I'm thinking the old one wasn't actually a genuine Saab part. I've never seen a glossy original DI cassette and I've had three 9k's.
Please remove that DI cassette and apply some dielectric grease to the inner surfaces of the boots (where they contact the spark plugs). It will provide corrosion protection for the contacts by keeping the boots from prematurely cracking to better seal between the plug ceramic surface. Put a bit of that same grease on the main connector plug contacts as well. It goes a long way in such a harsh environment. Enjoy that Saab 9000. Great cars.
Engine takes 375HP , on stock internals , just needs bigger turbo and injectors and remap . Used to only cost around £600 in England.Maptun SAAB racing used to drag race a 900 horsepower 9000 . Change your pistons and racing clutch as well , tubular manifold 550hp to 700hp.
@@larijauhiainen8596 It's the same engine and head... about the only change between the earlier and later engine block is the port for the crankshaft position sensor...
I am surprised to see it's rocking a 2.3L B234 engine on a 80s body. I thought until now that old bodies came with the B202i, which is shared by the 900. I have 3 of these beasts, one of which is a B202I engine that has blown a headgasket long ago and I'm putting it to rest. The rest are post 90s, new body and B234 engines, but my newest has an 80s body. Wonder how many of these have been built, they were clearly a transition phase. Just an odd car built out of whatever they had on hand at the time.
On the b204/b234 you can run the black kasset to. Ist for the b205/b235 but the t7 has one more fiture that the t5 cant read so it does not matter but the red one is the best
it is a bit weird that they have direct ignition written on it, it kinda leads you to believe that all other cars are indirect and that wouldn't work. But i agree that it is a nice looking engine all of that plastic rubbish they put in engine bays these days often makes it look cheap
It can be fitted with a red DI/APC box. That is a factory tuning box that will increase the engine power from 200hp/330Nm to 220hp/334Nm. I had that in my 9000 CC 2.3Turbo. And that was a nice car to drive! 😃 The same tuning box will end up in my 9000 CS 2.3turboS, when I am done with my rustrepair. 😊
Wow, interesting! I was actually wondering if mine still had the exact same power as with the old cassette. I could try and do a comparison, but the difference might be tiny if there at all. Thanks for the info though 👍 I'm still learning a lot about Saabs.
Yes I guess that is probably what the output of this 9000 is now. I have the same car - 1991 9k 2.3 T cc manual - with the factory tuning kit and it is crazy fast. But you won't get 250 bhp unless you are upgrading your hardware, and it looks like the hardware is stock. But it is not the engine nor the turbo you want to spare, it is the gearbox, which is the weak part of the setup. Nonetheless: great car! I'm guessing it was bought at LvB, or maybe the previous owner bought it there. In that case I still have the sales photos, if Retroschaft is interested.
How did he "Increase" the boost ?. As its impossible with DI-APC, without remapping the ECU ROM. I think your mechanic made all that up. Other than checking base boost is correct at 0.45 bar, there is nothing that can be done. And no you cannot make 300 or more BHP with yours. Not unless you rip out all the old DI-APC stuff and retrofit Trionic5.
It’s not impossible, I’ve done it myself, you open up the box itself, replace a couple resistors for ones with higher resistance, adjust your f and p pots, and you’re done, pretty simple actually, I had my 93 900 pushing 17 psi after I did this
@@fiaschifabrications4852 You cannot do that with this car. Its not APC. Its DI-APC. Its a fully "Mapped" boost control system. There are no pots. Its all in a Rom.
@@fiaschifabrications4852 That's a different APC unit altogether. There are no P-F-K pots in the 9000 APC unit of this era. You also have to be careful on the old 900 that you don't ruin the head when messing with the P(ressure) and F(uel) pots because you haven't adjusted the K(nock) sensor correctly.
@@dj_paultuk7052 100% correct on the map on a chip, Paul, but you can increase the power output. My '91 9000 2.3 CD Carlsson runs just a shade under 300bhp with the Abbott Racing upgrades, including intercooler, air filter, ported and gas-flowed head, Abbott bypass, APC manual over-ride valve, exhaust and most importantly the 305mm big brake upgrade. Never rely on a standard 9000 brake set to stop you on full chat. Abbott takes the APC box and fueling computer out and flashes them both together. You can't upgrade just the APC or the fueling computer separately - they have to be a matched pair. However, that's as far as I would ever want to go with the upgrade, because, without the later gearbox upgrades introduced into the factory-supplied replacements or a first-class gearbox rebuilder, you'll pull the pinion bearings out in a heartbeat. Been there and done that in a standard 91 Carlsson 2.3. All my Carlssons have the upgrade gearbox and I drive them easy...
How do you know its been tuned ?. Its a DI-APC car and there is hardly anyone around now that can read these Roms. Apart from me and a few others. Its possible it might have a later 1992 CS Carlsson DI-APC ECU. On the 2.3 these gave 225bhp. DI-APC has a boost cut at 1.2 bar, so you cannot really turn them up, or defeat APC. Paul @ The SAAB Clinic.
It's fully explained in the video but it was probably tuned by one of the previous owners. No idea what they did but the car was running on very low boost (about 0.5 bar) and was supposedly increased to 1.0 bar to make use of the engine map. There was a noticeable difference in performance and I wasn't charged or anything for a new map. Since then the fuel consumption has actually dropped significantly and the car runs a lot smoother so it's definetely more efficient than it was before. All I truly know is that the car feels, sounds, runs and drives fantastic. And I'm loving it 😃
@@Retroschaft 0.45 Bar would be base boost and usually indicates that the APC valve is not working. 1.0 bar is standard boost pressure on good fuel. Yes a failing DI can cause poor MPG and rough running.
@@dj_paultuk7052 Yup, fully agree Paul. The T5 APC valve is not only useless, it is fundamentally useless, added in by SAAB as a redundancy for a stuck bypass valve or a similarly stuck wastegate. A failsafe-failsafe, which you could safely say would fail. When they give up, you're on base-boost as you say. I have owned and still do own several Carlssons including a 2.3 CD 5-speed I brought to the USA) and you really do need someone with an ISAT rather than TECH-2 to get the best out of communicating with the car. Let me hit this guy up separately - I've had 30 years of experience of these cars, so I usually know what happens by the feel of what's going wrong as it goes wrong...
Looking at your cars' engine ompartment, I can readily Identify several Massive Failure potentials. TCS (traction control which sent most All tcs eqquiped cars to the crusher) Pressure sphere ABS acumulator (think Citroen Suspension spheres.. Exact same problem). Proven as V low quality Bosch Air Mass meter V unreliable and difficult to repair /replace these days. Behind the harmonic balancer located CPS sensor . Failure prone and...Difficult to access also Close to impossible to find new. As for your Boost problem ? Well many saabs face boost issues .. perennially :-) Base boost only produces ~maybe 170 hp (on a Healthy Engine) Owners Exaggerating HP is a long standing tradition. Lots to enjoy in there :-0
Denk,dat jij me kunt helpen met een MY 1992 9000 CS 2.3 turbo automatic met een TCS lampje en een LHM Issue af en toe. Ook de Abs en Tcs warning Lights branden soms. Ik verdenk de ABS sensoren vooraan… weet jij raad?
Hi Michel, ik ben met mijn 9000 altijd naar Saab Classics Waegeman gegaan. Ik ben er zeker van dat hij jouw 9000 eens kan uitlezen en het probleem vinden. Bij die van mij zouden het chips geweest zijn die niet meer perfect werkte, maar het had geen invloed op het rijden of functioneren van de wagen dus ik heb het probleem nooit aangepakt eigenlijk. Uiteindelijk brandde de lampes bij mij gewoon continue. Maar dus, ga zeker eens langs bij Bart, top kerel!
No separate Throttle Position Sensor on this car, it's built into the ETS electronic throttle body which is quite obvious from the view under the bonnet. That can be a curse more than a blessing...
There was a guy selling a 9000 for like 2 years in 2dehands whom he claimed to have about 400hp and i nearly bought it but i asked for proof of it before coming to pick the car and he stopped answering me...
Yeah sometimes people don't seem to want to sell their car on that platform. Sometimes when I ask to discuss prices they stop answering 🤨 double checking is definetely a good practice!
@@Retroschaft earlier this year in January i was looking for some a4's that they still are now selling them for even higher prices and no one buying them.. so they rather let the car go to shit than lower the price and let someone else enjoy it as they/we want.. Same for some v70 or 95 saabs that i love i have been checking some pages in Netherlands, Belgium and Germany and they are still selling them after 2/3 years using the first pictures they took. I'm sure that if i go there now to see these cars that have been standing by for 3 years, if they didn't have any problems back then, then they are sure to have them now and most likely more expensive than the car itself being around 5k each... shame on these idiot people.
Quick question what is of the name vent knobs for your car mine doesn't have any currently or do you know where I can find a full set of them maybe? I've looked everywhere
Oof that's a good quesiton.. I guess it depends where you're from. I would try finding someone who's parting out his/her 9000, maybe car graveyards that happen to have some parts laying around, or checking Professional Parts Sweden if they have some. I know Elferink in the Netherlands part out Saabs constantly so maybe they have some laying around.
That 9000 has arguably the best Saab engine of the lot B234R. They are seriously strong 400hp on stock internals is quite possible. The torque is incredible. They also seems to last forever, had a classic 900 Carlsson and I did 300,000 (hard miles) in it then sold it to my mate who put another 200,000 (to date) on it all with original internals, just oil change every 6,000. Amazing machines!
I just found your channel and thought "A quality channel with car content". When I saw the number of views honestly I was a little shocked. I don't know how you don't have much more but I want to tell you that you are doing a very good job. The quality of the footage, the thumbnails is brilliant.
And maybe this info helps you : this exact video got into my recommendations 2 times in the last few hours.
Hi! Thank you so much for this! We're trying our very best to get the algorithm on our side but it seems like we're not there yet. Thanks for sharing that info, that's very interesting 🙏 and also thanks for the kind words, that's motivating! I'm trying my utmost best with the title, thumbnail and video Quality combo 😄 there's a lot more stuff planned for this year so it's a good time to catch up on the videos and follow along. Welcome 🏁
Same!
I'm sure you probably know this but you need to put dielectric grease on direct ignition cassette holes where the spark plug goes. It makes sure that the spark stays inside of that rubber boot. Love the car. Have several Saab 9000 myself.
Thanks for the tip! Never heard of dielectric grease before. Never heard it mentioned before as well so I'll put it on my 'to buy' list and I'll apply it later on. Thanks!
@@Retroschaft yeah no problem . Definitely post more videos.
Great video. I'm 52 and learn something new. Using spanner on a Allan key
Great vid. I’m keeping my 2008 9-3 with 49k miles hopefully forever. Thanks for posting👍
Sounds like a lovely car 👍
Holy cow! Only 49k miles? Wish 9-5 was that new
Absolutely beautiful, I need a Saab in my life! 😃
Thanks for getting into this car and sharing the details. DJ_PaulTUK, in his comments below, has a decent understanding of this age of car and you're doing ok - so far.
Supportive suggestions:
1) That's a TCS car - make sure you carefully clean a) the throttle body flap regularly and the electrical contacts on the side, b) the valves on the bulkhead and inner wheel-arch, including the electrical contacts c) the coolant tubes in and out of the throttle body, d)the air-mass-meter with the electrical cleaner as well - even with the auto-burn-off mode, cleaning the carbon off the platinum filament is a good investment - and the connectors, of course.
2) Clean the big, round electrical connector contacts halfway down the bulkhead - they often go green and will throw weird "check engine/radiator/oil" error messages.
3) When you replaced the vacuum lines, did you remember the one to the turbo boost gauge? Look for cracking at the joints/interfaces in the bulkhead which gives a great whoosh sound, but kills boost. 9000's are useless when the vacuum lines go bad - replace with suitable size flexible diesel-fuel line hose and they will never go bad again
4) Make sure the one way valve between the cylinder head and bulkhead TCS valve is good and the right way around. Seen them killing the performance too. Similarly, all the 'top-hat' rubber bushings in and out of the rocker cover need to be nice and tight - when they start to go soft - change them. They will kill your drive-ability as well.
5) >50% chance the APC valve is dead or dying. Terribly unreliable. I have stopped looking for new T5-type valves - not sure they are available any longer and even if they are, they are as consumable as plugs and filters. Replace with a manual boost valve and adjust so that boost only goes no more than half way into the red on full boost and you'll be OK. It will be a dance between adjusting the waste gate actuator and the boost control valve to get it right. More than that and you'll probably be wondering why your engine has died because the knock sensor won't be able to retard the boost and ignition to save the engine from detonation... A failed APC valve may be why your boost was on base value. I'd also check what your mechanic did and that he hasn't bypassed it and cranked up boost. Doesn't help drive-ability or longevity. Whatever anyone says here, cranking up the boost by virtue of lengthening the waste gate actuator valve rod is not a great way to keep this car driving for a long time. If you want to save the engine, with greater boost, run the engine on the highest octane fuel you can buy - do not skimp on that. It actually provides slightly better distance per litre at the same time per my experience at least.
6) I should have a 'spare' set of matched APC red controller and fueling computers back in the UK if you ever want to venture into that arena. I also have an Abbott upgrade intercooler that did one trip of 750 miles in a 1993 T5 Trionic before I broke the car due to a T5 ECU problem.
7) If you have someone with an ISAT (best) or have to live with TECH-2, then ask them to clear the TCS and fueling system (using a 973 code) which clears the adaptation values. It resets the computer and boost values which allows the car to 'learn' how you drive it. Makes a big difference on the car behaviour.
8) Check the settings on the cruise control cut-off switches on the clutch and brake pedal, that they cut off at the right point in the pedal travel - the shafts are on a miniature ratchet system which you have to reset if they are disturbed. Many service techs have no idea and the switches are then wrongly set (activation tabs usually bent out of shape is a good indicator) which throws a wonky signal to the ETS control computer which then argues with the ETC and fueling systems.
9) Watch the tiny vacuum hose which runs under the TCS throttle body - often will split or disconnect, leading to shitty idling and running but not throw up a TCS CTRL light.
10) Make certain that the earth straps to the engine are clean and tight - both the one from the battery to the gearbox and the one from the top engine mount to the cylinder head.
11) I can't quite see, but it looks like the DI plug may be the old system, rather than the revised version where the final cable was linked through two extension connectors on the side of the battery tray. The old system, where the DI plug was wired directly into the wiring loom could end up being damaged mechanically or overheated as there was not enough play in the wire - if the change was made at the Dealer as a recall, there should be a figure 8 etched or scribed onto the recall plate up beside the electrical connectors underneath the right bonnet hinge. If not, you can still find the wiring loom adapter kit on the well known auction site...
12) Make sure the threads on the Lambda sensor are clean. They can often get corroded and the sensor does not earth correctly leading to the car running rich and poor drive-ability. You can run an extra earth strap and use a jubilee clip to tie it to the outside of the sensor.
13) Make sure you do an A/C calibration and check for errors. Believe it or not, the AC is linked to the ETS system (to adjust idle when the compressor comes on) and if the ACC controller is not calibrated, that impacts the way the car drives. Press the AUTO and sideways arrows together (bottom right hand button - it will need two hands to be comfortable) and hold for 5 or so seconds and it will go into self-calibrate mode. If there are no errors, you'll get a 0 on the screen. If not, it will tell you how many errors you have which will require electronic interrogation to diagnose. You cannot diagnose that problem using the contact switch and check-engine light flash codes on a 1990 onwards vehicle.
14) Bizarrely, take a membership out for the USA Saab Owners Club. Not expensive and the beauty is that they have full online access to the SAAB TIS documentation which includes most of the workshop manuals for the 9000 from 1986 onwards. If they don't have the information, I usually have the manuals they don't have. It has taken 30+ years of scouring all the sources to find them and the diagnostic computers after SAAB Sweden told the dealers to return all the ISAT's to Sweden in 1996, for dumping in the trash, when they moved to OBD-II. Not sure what Swedish is for 'boneheads' but they were following EU and American orders... :((
My favorite Saab of all time is this one featured right here!
Yep! Been there with the DI Cassette and I replaced all the rubber lines (intercooler, intake, all coolant lines, vacuum lines) and the Trionic system is sublime! Greatly and easily tuneable! Fun and well explained to the generic viewer! Nice that this video recommended! Good luck and keep up the videos! Mine is stage 2, B205 engine, making around 250 hp 350 nm. Very nice with in combination with a cabrio!
I've never tapped into the Trionic myself but I would love to give it a go! Vacuum lines have been changed too, car runs so much more smoothly now it's incredible what those little things do!
@@Retroschaft indeed! Bad vacuum lines mess up the fuel mixture and boost regulation, from what I’ve personally seen! Such a small and cheap and easy piece to replace.
This car is not Trionic5. Its DI-APC.
The red DI cassette on B2*4 engines also do the knock detect. they pass 60v across the plug, which is detected only when the plasma from the spark occurs, or pre ignition (knock) happens.
They are oil filled to cool the coils too so should be stored upright, or left for a while before you start the car.
Next service, remove the sump pan and clean the strainer. only debris or no oil kills a Saab. they love boost.
(Mine's in an Astra H van but almost went into an MGB GT.) B204L with GT3076r, Deka875cc, 4" inlet, 3" intercooler, 3" downpipe & exhaust, 2" custom Manifold and wastegate, T7 mod, Makes 300bhp on 0.5 bar.
Oil starvation was not an issue on these engines - only the later versions put into the 9-3 and 9-5 where the strainer would block and the engine go kaput. Open up the rocker cover and provided the oil changes have been done regularly on this car, the heads will be a nice bronze/silver colour, no carbon buildup.
@@clarkwilson3505 I have killed 1 bottom end and the replacement engine I bought looked like chocolate inside, then the balance shafts started to seize and squeal. Fully built now with shafts gone. 297bhp on 0.5 bar 😁
I have a 2001 9-5 that's super fun! It's just a great driving car!
Great vid! I have the same problem with my 9000 Aero (maptun stage 5+) hopefully I can get my hands on the part soon. Thanks alot!
Very common issue on saabs, i have a few t5 and t7s laying around haha.
Awesome cars! I had a 1997 93. Loved it. I never had to replace a cassette but change the plugs out. I remember something about plug self clean at shut down. You could hear a noise when you turn the car off.
Instant sub. Current owner of six Saabs.
Haha that's amazing! Judging by how many people are enjoying this video we decided to make more Saab videos in the future. Currently planning a 4-day trip to Sweden with this car to visit the Saab museum in October. Multiple part video series incoming 🙌
@@Retroschaft Nice! You should also visit the factory museum in Uusikaupunki, Finland. 90% of the cars there are Saabs. Definitely worth a visit! And it is not that far from the harbour in Turku.
That's a fantastic bit of luck there....D.I.C is a common problem on these engines....enjoy it now 👍
Will do! Driving it all the way to Switzerland on a holiday in the summer, will be the most enjoyable ride there and back I've ever had I reckon 😄
To prolong the life of the ignition cassette , always try to keep it in a vertical position when you take it out , perhaps when changing plugs etc; That is keep the plug connectors pointing down . Nice vid. Have a Saab 93 convertible auto myself , with 2 litre B204 engine .
yes it prolongs the electrolyte soaking the coils but vertical can also sometimes allow the springs that sit between the coils and the spark plugs to fall out and disappear. Ask me how I know after a long misfire diagnosis.........
I own a '96 9000 Aero in Canada, pretty clean undercarriage, next to no rust! Few issues here & there although almost fully stock with 207,000 Miles. Probably over do on the gaskets/fuel injectors though, These engines are fucking brilliant
Couldn't agree more! Head gasket has been done on mine now, injector change would be next on the list.
A little advice with these ignition cassettes. You can pull the black bottom part off and clean the contacts on the internal coils and restretch the springs and clean those ends as well. I have saved a few of them myself when i had my 9000 and still actually have 2 laying around. I do this to my 9-5's now and have yet to need a new one and my cars are running a 19t and 875cc injectors on ethanol. I miss my 9000 though
I'll do that on the old one as a test and then I'll do the new one. Thanks! Seems like a fun little job actually.
@@Retroschaft definitely worth doing, that way you can always have a spare in your car just incase the current one dies out. Sometimes it wont show signs of failure until it just dies. I had noticed mine missfire under heavy load on the 2867 i had on it.
That car needs a 94+ B234R Aero T5 swap. You can’t really “tune” those in the same sense you could a newer 9k. Trionic 5 swap is amazing on those.
You can increase boost 0.7psi by slacking the lock nut of the waste gate actuator rod , and shortening the length . Five full turns of the lock = 3.5psi extra boost.
Yeah the 9000 was a great car, as was all the cars in this Fiat/Saab/Alfa project. Fiat Croma/Saab 9000/Lancia Thema/Alfa 164, altho they all had slightly different personalities.
But the Saab was always a little better built, it felt like.
Have to admit, I always thought about owning a 164 at some point! It's true that all cars that share this platform looked great.
@@Retroschaft Hi guys, I currently own a 9k 2.3t Griffin with around 70'000km on the clock. I also owned other Tipo 4 plateform cars. To be perfectly honest the 9k has always been the best of them from a build quality point of view. I had a gorgeous low km Thema 8.32 and also drove many 164. The 8.32 is to buy for its fabulous engine note and gorgeous interior. But even in perfect condition it never felt as well put together as a 9k. The only 164 I really liked was the Q4 4wd 6 speed. Amazing car to drive and great engine and traction. But build quality inside and electrical components reliability were horrible (seat motors etc...).
Excellent channel mate!
I have a 9-5 wagon and while watching your video, I have noticed that I have the same phone holder on the same location.
I am the 2nd owner of a 1995 VW Jetta Mk3 1.8 clx with a carburettor...previous owner was an old lady so not much kms on the odometer when been bought in 2011...love it...
Sounds like a great find! Treat it well and cherish it
u sure it was a old lady?
@@trainslife5638 yes...3 months after she sold it to me she passed @ 93...i have her handwriting in a book where she wrote down every fill of fuel since new...even the service book...
Thought I read "translife" .... Lol . Trainslife is much better.
I own a CD with this 2.3 engine, but with no turbo, it is almost bone stock, it never broke down even once since I owned it for 2 years. Everyone was a bit puzzled that this one has no turbo, I feel weird that few people bought 9000 with no turbo.
Yeah I don't know if my experience is a full 'broken down' one as I was always able to just continue driving. Otherwise the car has been fantastic. It even slept outside for a while during the harsh winter and it fired up every single morning when I needed it, as quickly as it fires up in the summer and even after sitting for a few days. This car never ceases to amaze me!
Very nice. I have three 9000's.
and 8 other Saabs too.. :D
What a bonus discovering the extra horses. Aren't you tempted to put it on a dyno?
Love your work...
Yes I am! I'm very curious what the output currently is. Maybe in the future I'll have it checked out 👍
I Have had exactly the same issue. Had to raise up the basepressure from 0.4 to 0.6 or something like that. Another thing is, that those coilpacks usually fail when they get 10years old and so on. I saw that previous coilpack you had seems to be not orginal. Use only SEM-oem coilpack. You can check how old is your coilpack from the coilpack itself. If it is orginal, there is sticker. First year, then manufacturing week, in form like 0947 (2009, week 47)
It's funny to hear you talk about the quirky things in this old 9000, a lot of these things are still true for the B207 which is the same as in my car :D
B207 is not a Saab engine, its Opel's engine (vauxhall)
Nice, Im struggling with my gti, it worked fine for the last 7 months, but yesterday the steering wheel became so stiff that it is very difficult to drive, maybe I have to change the electric steering rack, glad that your fix wasnt that complicated.
Thank you! Sounds not very nice in your case. I know the Saab has a servo pump that's belt driven by the engine which can break sometimes too. But I have no idea what it could be with electric steering 😕
Serpentine belt and tensioner
@@Crimsonhaha sorry mate, what do you mean?
@@jamdc2000 he means check your aux belt and power steering pump.
@@b5Bart Mine is a 2012 model, it uses and electric steering rack, it is not hidraulic
The "coil" cassette break quite often on the 9000s and and even on the 9-5s
The B2x4 engines can handle 500hp on stock internals if you change the cylinder head to a T7 head.
So solid and great engines indeed!
Yeah I've been running a stock Saab 9000 motor for the last 4 years running about 550 horsepower. The only thing I have changed is the bigger intercooler obviously tuning bigger turbo bigger injectors. Great motors to build.
My father workead all his life as a mechanic, he always said that an engine should hold for full load on wide open throttle for long long periods, like going on autobahn on full throttle for many hours, if the engine don't survive that then it is crap...
Assuming you have adequate cooling and oil pressure. And do replace the oil.
I think saab took a stock 9000T and drove it on Taladega track with wide open throttle, non stop for 100 000 km.
@@andreaskampe9143 Yes, there was a endurance race in the 9000 in the 90's and it "survived" it. Can't remember the name of the race.. Saab made great engines. Too bad GM made them skimp on the T7 engines as they've suffered badly from it with blowby etc.. I myself drive a 9-5 Aero with a rebuilt T5/T7 hybrid engine (T5 cams, pistons and rods) running 360hp on E85 like a champ. Must say it's the best car I've ever driven. R.I.P. Saab
@@andreaskampe9143 they sure did and in 2016 me and my wife went to the 2016 Saab convention in Atlanta and we were able to go on the Talladega super speedway with about 50 other guys at the convention. It was amazing. 5th gear ,top speed, 10 laps. Best 250 bucks I ever spent. That track is super steep. You don't realize it till you're in the car you're sitting totally sideways when you're going around the track. We actually did that in our 1990 Saab 900 convertible. I love saabs that's all we drive.
Noticed how the old DI cassette was glossy while the new one was matte. I'm thinking the old one wasn't actually a genuine Saab part. I've never seen a glossy original DI cassette and I've had three 9k's.
I miss my 95 9000 cse
Please remove that DI cassette and apply some dielectric grease to the inner surfaces of the boots (where they contact the spark plugs). It will provide corrosion protection for the contacts by keeping the boots from prematurely cracking to better seal between the plug ceramic surface. Put a bit of that same grease on the main connector plug contacts as well. It goes a long way in such a harsh environment. Enjoy that Saab 9000. Great cars.
I have two MGB’s, two 900 convertibles to make into one, and two 9000’s with four donor 9000’s.
Engine takes 375HP , on stock internals , just needs bigger turbo and injectors and remap . Used to only cost around £600 in England.Maptun SAAB racing used to drag race a 900 horsepower 9000 . Change your pistons and racing clutch as well , tubular manifold 550hp to 700hp.
T5 stock internals can take up to 500hp with no problem. Even little bit more.
@@larijauhiainen8596 It's the same engine and head... about the only change between the earlier and later engine block is the port for the crankshaft position sensor...
I am surprised to see it's rocking a 2.3L B234 engine on a 80s body. I thought until now that old bodies came with the B202i, which is shared by the 900. I have 3 of these beasts, one of which is a B202I engine that has blown a headgasket long ago and I'm putting it to rest. The rest are post 90s, new body and B234 engines, but my newest has an 80s body. Wonder how many of these have been built, they were clearly a transition phase. Just an odd car built out of whatever they had on hand at the time.
On the b204/b234 you can run the black kasset to. Ist for the b205/b235 but the t7 has one more fiture that the t5 cant read so it does not matter but the red one is the best
it is a bit weird that they have direct ignition written on it, it kinda leads you to believe that all other cars are indirect and that wouldn't work. But i agree that it is a nice looking engine all of that plastic rubbish they put in engine bays these days often makes it look cheap
It can be fitted with a red DI/APC box. That is a factory tuning box that will increase the engine power from 200hp/330Nm to 220hp/334Nm.
I had that in my 9000 CC 2.3Turbo. And that was a nice car to drive! 😃 The same tuning box will end up in my 9000 CS 2.3turboS, when I am done with my rustrepair. 😊
Wow, interesting! I was actually wondering if mine still had the exact same power as with the old cassette. I could try and do a comparison, but the difference might be tiny if there at all. Thanks for the info though 👍 I'm still learning a lot about Saabs.
@@Retroschaft No problems. I have fixing Saabs since 2004. I have also worked at the factory in Trollhättan. And I still fixing Saabs. 😂
Yes I guess that is probably what the output of this 9000 is now. I have the same car - 1991 9k 2.3 T cc manual - with the factory tuning kit and it is crazy fast. But you won't get 250 bhp unless you are upgrading your hardware, and it looks like the hardware is stock. But it is not the engine nor the turbo you want to spare, it is the gearbox, which is the weak part of the setup. Nonetheless: great car! I'm guessing it was bought at LvB, or maybe the previous owner bought it there. In that case I still have the sales photos, if Retroschaft is interested.
@@the_aerouser Wait, hold on, you know this exact car? The name is Robin by the way ;)
@@Retroschaft Yes, I'm pretty sure it is the same car that I have photos of. Where can I send them to?
How did he "Increase" the boost ?. As its impossible with DI-APC, without remapping the ECU ROM. I think your mechanic made all that up. Other than checking base boost is correct at 0.45 bar, there is nothing that can be done. And no you cannot make 300 or more BHP with yours. Not unless you rip out all the old DI-APC stuff and retrofit Trionic5.
It’s not impossible, I’ve done it myself, you open up the box itself, replace a couple resistors for ones with higher resistance, adjust your f and p pots, and you’re done, pretty simple actually, I had my 93 900 pushing 17 psi after I did this
My uncle was an old saab mechanic, he taught me how to do all these things over the years
@@fiaschifabrications4852 You cannot do that with this car. Its not APC. Its DI-APC. Its a fully "Mapped" boost control system. There are no pots. Its all in a Rom.
@@fiaschifabrications4852 That's a different APC unit altogether. There are no P-F-K pots in the 9000 APC unit of this era. You also have to be careful on the old 900 that you don't ruin the head when messing with the P(ressure) and F(uel) pots because you haven't adjusted the K(nock) sensor correctly.
@@dj_paultuk7052 100% correct on the map on a chip, Paul, but you can increase the power output. My '91 9000 2.3 CD Carlsson runs just a shade under 300bhp with the Abbott Racing upgrades, including intercooler, air filter, ported and gas-flowed head, Abbott bypass, APC manual over-ride valve, exhaust and most importantly the 305mm big brake upgrade. Never rely on a standard 9000 brake set to stop you on full chat.
Abbott takes the APC box and fueling computer out and flashes them both together. You can't upgrade just the APC or the fueling computer separately - they have to be a matched pair. However, that's as far as I would ever want to go with the upgrade, because, without the later gearbox upgrades introduced into the factory-supplied replacements or a first-class gearbox rebuilder, you'll pull the pinion bearings out in a heartbeat. Been there and done that in a standard 91 Carlsson 2.3.
All my Carlssons have the upgrade gearbox and I drive them easy...
How do you know its been tuned ?. Its a DI-APC car and there is hardly anyone around now that can read these Roms. Apart from me and a few others. Its possible it might have a later 1992 CS Carlsson DI-APC ECU. On the 2.3 these gave 225bhp. DI-APC has a boost cut at 1.2 bar, so you cannot really turn them up, or defeat APC. Paul @ The SAAB Clinic.
It's fully explained in the video but it was probably tuned by one of the previous owners. No idea what they did but the car was running on very low boost (about 0.5 bar) and was supposedly increased to 1.0 bar to make use of the engine map. There was a noticeable difference in performance and I wasn't charged or anything for a new map. Since then the fuel consumption has actually dropped significantly and the car runs a lot smoother so it's definetely more efficient than it was before.
All I truly know is that the car feels, sounds, runs and drives fantastic. And I'm loving it 😃
@@Retroschaft 0.45 Bar would be base boost and usually indicates that the APC valve is not working. 1.0 bar is standard boost pressure on good fuel. Yes a failing DI can cause poor MPG and rough running.
@@dj_paultuk7052 Yup, fully agree Paul. The T5 APC valve is not only useless, it is fundamentally useless, added in by SAAB as a redundancy for a stuck bypass valve or a similarly stuck wastegate. A failsafe-failsafe, which you could safely say would fail. When they give up, you're on base-boost as you say. I have owned and still do own several Carlssons including a 2.3 CD 5-speed I brought to the USA) and you really do need someone with an ISAT rather than TECH-2 to get the best out of communicating with the car. Let me hit this guy up separately - I've had 30 years of experience of these cars, so I usually know what happens by the feel of what's going wrong as it goes wrong...
@@clarkwilson3505 Yes, agree. Im also a SAAB master tech, did my apprenticeship on 9000's. I also own TheSAABClinic Co UK
@@dj_paultuk7052 Good contact - I'll look you up. Thanks.
Looking at your cars' engine ompartment, I can readily Identify several Massive Failure potentials. TCS (traction control which sent most All tcs eqquiped cars to the crusher) Pressure sphere ABS acumulator (think Citroen Suspension spheres.. Exact same problem). Proven as V low quality Bosch Air Mass meter V unreliable and difficult to repair /replace these days. Behind the harmonic balancer located CPS sensor . Failure prone and...Difficult to access also Close to impossible to find new. As for your Boost problem ? Well many saabs face boost issues .. perennially :-)
Base boost only produces ~maybe 170 hp (on a Healthy Engine) Owners Exaggerating HP is a long standing tradition.
Lots to enjoy in there :-0
Denk,dat jij me kunt helpen met een MY 1992 9000 CS 2.3 turbo automatic met een TCS lampje en een LHM Issue af en toe. Ook de Abs en Tcs warning Lights branden soms. Ik verdenk de ABS sensoren vooraan… weet jij raad?
Hi Michel, ik ben met mijn 9000 altijd naar Saab Classics Waegeman gegaan. Ik ben er zeker van dat hij jouw 9000 eens kan uitlezen en het probleem vinden. Bij die van mij zouden het chips geweest zijn die niet meer perfect werkte, maar het had geen invloed op het rijden of functioneren van de wagen dus ik heb het probleem nooit aangepakt eigenlijk. Uiteindelijk brandde de lampes bij mij gewoon continue. Maar dus, ga zeker eens langs bij Bart, top kerel!
Красота.
These things are fool proof if provided with a proper coil pack, fuel pump and a working throttle position sensor.
No separate Throttle Position Sensor on this car, it's built into the ETS electronic throttle body which is quite obvious from the view under the bonnet. That can be a curse more than a blessing...
There was a guy selling a 9000 for like 2 years in 2dehands whom he claimed to have about 400hp and i nearly bought it but i asked for proof of it before coming to pick the car and he stopped answering me...
Yeah sometimes people don't seem to want to sell their car on that platform. Sometimes when I ask to discuss prices they stop answering 🤨 double checking is definetely a good practice!
@@Retroschaft earlier this year in January i was looking for some a4's that they still are now selling them for even higher prices and no one buying them.. so they rather let the car go to shit than lower the price and let someone else enjoy it as they/we want..
Same for some v70 or 95 saabs that i love i have been checking some pages in Netherlands, Belgium and Germany and they are still selling them after 2/3 years using the first pictures they took. I'm sure that if i go there now to see these cars that have been standing by for 3 years, if they didn't have any problems back then, then they are sure to have them now and most likely more expensive than the car itself being around 5k each...
shame on these idiot people.
Si bruciano spesso in 20 anni ne ho cambiate 5😱
Hallo. Van welke streek ben jij?
Quick question what is of the name vent knobs for your car mine doesn't have any currently or do you know where I can find a full set of them maybe? I've looked everywhere
Oof that's a good quesiton.. I guess it depends where you're from. I would try finding someone who's parting out his/her 9000, maybe car graveyards that happen to have some parts laying around, or checking Professional Parts Sweden if they have some. I know Elferink in the Netherlands part out Saabs constantly so maybe they have some laying around.
Сааб 9000 аеро 2.3 турбо - Самолёт!!!
It is an ancient car now. Had exact same one, back in the 90s. It was fantastic. But, it is old now...What do you expect of it!?