Thanks for the great video and tips. I was able to successfully replace the spark plugs in my '01 Ford F150 4.6L 2V engine in one afternoon. The back plugs are a challenge but not impossible. The key is to take your time. On the passenger side I had to remove the wire to the fuel injector on #3 (easy) and on the driver's side had to remove the power steering reservoir bracket (easy) to get to #5 and #6. #7 was the most difficult to get to the bolt holding the coil because it was directly under a component connected to the fuel rail. I thought I was going to have to loosen the rail but I didn't. I found I had a smaller than usual height 7mm socket (1/4" drive) that I was able to get on the bolt head with a swivel approaching from the front. I didn't replace the coils because I couldn't afford it and they were all good anyway. Maybe a project for the future. I wouldn't have been able to do any of this without a Duralast Magnetic Spark Plug socket with an attached 6" extension and swivel found at AutoZone (part #52-135).
Thanks for adding the missing from video but the only info anyone would watch such a “how-to” like this for. Also, I don’t believe it’s advisable to put anise on the spark plug threads. These motors are notoriously known for spark plugs coming loose and blowing out, but you also don’t get proper torque which is what is needed to help prevent the plugs from blowing out the heads, taking most of the threads along with it.
Dude use motorcraft plugs and coils i learn this the hard way i put aftermarket coils and plugs and not long after four months i was there changing them again and man those cheap coils ended up burning the plugs or making them foul all black a sign those coils were not capable of handling the overload and i ended up putting oem coils and plugs motorcraft products
Thank you so very much. Everyone said I have to pull the fuel rail off to change the coil pack. Luckily I have the number one call packs, which the ear broke off on the nut. But now what's you're video? Help me tremendously.
Very good video. Got a misfire in cylinder #8. Of course the hardest one to get to. I am changing all the plugs and coils. Your video was most helpful. Thanks!
I see you received a lot of praise for this video. I guess I will break that trend a bit. It would have been really nice to see you replace the 2 hardest plugs( the back 2 on the driver's side). This is the information that would help me a lot. I got more help out the the comment by Don Hill. Even at that I am still struggling with that which could be attributed partially to the fact I am missing the forefinger on my right had and couldn't really maneuver the ratchet very well in the tight quarters. ANy suggestions you might have would be appreciated. For now. Best Regards from Frustrated in Arizona, James
Here's the thing, think about it from a filming perspective. If I filmed the the back ones people would complain non stop that all they can see is my elbows and darkness. So I show the proof of concept on the easy to to see plugs and that applies the rest of them. It's just a matter of different length extensions for the other 7. I got the other 7 out quite easily with different length extensions and some patience. I'm not even a very large person so I have to crawl into the engine bay to do the work. Thanks for watching!
I felt like a badass after you said you don’t have an inch-pound torque wrench and I do. Also, hate to be a douche, but it’s pronounced “Kuh-nee-pex” on the pliers.👍
HA HA! I knew that you weren't going to show how easy it is to do the plugs to the rear! It's a FREAKING NIGHTMARE and I would rather shoot myself in the face, than ever do it again!
Then you would complain all you can see in my elbows and darkness. The process is exactly the same and it's not that bad. Doing the plugs on a 2014 RAM 5.7 is much much worse. Thanks for watching!
13 ft lbs seems exceedingly low , given the head designs of there’s triton 2V motors I’ve heard 22-25 ft lbs to ensure less likely for plugs to blow out. Also, any thoughts on copper vs nickel anti seize? I’m having massive misfiring in 5.4L 2V at 166,000 mi and I’m thinking coils .. gonna do all coils and plugs and there’s a world of controversy on anti seize? Thanks good video
That was the spec from Ford. Either is probably fine. The only controversy is people on the internet love to be on a high horse and they love to split hairs on literally every last detail. Thanks for watching!
I was told to torque the spark plugs to 20 foot pounds because, it has been said that spark plugs happened to pop out. I'm not arguing or disputing the fact but, isn't seven more foot-pounds kind of too much?
You are correct 22 is the updated # considering the engineers designed only 4 threads in the 4.6 those motors spit plugs all the time. I went to change mine and they were only hand tight. Getting ready to spit them out. Some videos even say go as high as 25 ft lbs. But in reality they need to be looked at and retort if necessary after so many miles. Unless a person wants to take time of installation of inserts. The 4.6 is a two valve motor and is the best of the modular Ford motors. Just never understood how a company that's been making motors longer than anyone else could come up with the idea of putting only four threads in a spark plug hole😂😅. That engineer was probably related to someone 😂😅
I'm doing plugs on a 97 f-150 and it has plug wires and 2 coil packs. I only came here to find out how to get the #4 plug out (passenger rear) All the others are a breeze but not that one, Tried all my wobblies and different extensions. Total PITA
Great video, very helpful. Just wondering, especially on the driver side, did you have to remove the fuel rail to get at cylinders 7 & 8? Was there anything else you had to remove to be able to access them?
Go to harbor freight, buy the cheapest socket set with a 7mm socket, and a couple sets of various extensions and wobbles. Take those bad boys home, pop out that 7mm socket, grind it down until its as short as possible but still deep enough to get a good fit on the coil bolts. Profit.
I have a 2009 F-150 4.6L. I'm struggling to get #8 Spark Plug out. I'm not sure what is is called, but it seems like the Fuel Piping coming above #8 Spark Plug, makes it almost impossible to get the socket in straight to be able to loosen and remove the spark plug. How did you get #8 Spark Plug out? Thanks!!
i have a 1997expedition ,just changed plugs,coils and wires and still runs rough after 20 seconds of running perfect after starting. going to subscribe ty for any help
turned out to be a break in the injector wire on number 2, used noid lights and was easy to spot. ty for your help the mass air flow sensor did need cleaning.
You only replace coils when the coil is causing drivability problems. You also do not have to replace all of them when one/a couple go bad, just replace the bad ones
Idle on my 4.6 2007 explorer is shakey, really do think it’s the coil pack but others say it can be the injectors or spark plugs.( if anyone has fixed that let me know)
Same problem with mine...turned out had two worn injectors...problem solved. I know this is two years too late, but if it helps anyone else. Check injectors if the idle is shaky.
@@LibrastarLibrastar it was the Injectors 😂, sold that truck and got a fully optioned out 2006 4.6 explorer limited with 55,000 original miles. Love these trucks
@@2carpros The torque spec for the plugs seems to be a hot debate among some mechanics. One thought is to torque to 20 so the plug won't possibly "blow out" especially with a short thread plug. I followed the recommended Ford torque 11 on my 2012 F-150 ECO and those plugs have longer threads. I decided to leave it alone since I may possibly mess something else up trying to retighten them.
Dam that's a low torque i feel that weak torque is what cause the famous spark plug blowouts on this engines so i heard the new torque for the spark plugs is around 20 to 25 lbs i torque mine to 22 lbs
Because it is the exact same just harder to see. Then people would complain nonstop about my hands being in the way. Trust me on this one. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! I did film them but the footage was all just elbows and darkness. It is really the same I promise it just takes a different extension. Thanks for watching!
Just did this yesterday on a 4.6L 2004. Having a 5/8 spark plug socket with built in swivel AND an extended 5/8 spark socket, with multiple extensions and a separate swivel for use with the extended spark plug socket were a HUGE help. Also to get the coil screw next to the firewall on driver’s side, used a 1/4” drive with several extensions, straight down on to the screw, because I couldn’t get a regular socket with ratchet straight off to the side. Even bought ratcheting 7mm wrench. No luck. Straight down with 1/4” drive extensions and socket did the trick. Lastly, after removing coils soaked plugs in PB Blaster for 1/2 hour plus, while buying 7mm ratchet(which again didn’t work). Per local mom and pop repair shop, saved $330 labor.
That's why I don't put too much stock into torque specs all the time. I got that figure from Ford themselves and if I deviate with my own experience the TECHNICALLY correct internet says mean things to me. Thanks for watching!
Yeah due 13 lbs was the old torque specs before the blown outs they change it to 20 to 25 lbs to fix the blow out issues that came after spark plugs would get lose becuase of the low torque
Dude all these videos show the passenger side plug removal. That’s the easy side. Why not show the nightmare it is to do the driver side? It’s done intentionally and it’s misleading. Also, 13 ft lbs torque is a joke. You’re asking for a plug blowout. 20-25 ft pounds is what is needed.
Dude it's like it is impossible to film and if I did people would complain nonstop about how they can't see anything. Also all the plugs are exactly the same. There is no magic for it. Take 13ft lbs up with Ford that is direct from them and I agree with them. 25 might pull the threads out of the head it is just aluminum not iron. Thanks for watching!
Every last one of you TH-camrs always show the passenger side change. None of you show the driver side, WHICH IS THE HARDEST SIDE AND THE SIDE PEOPLE WANT TO SEE!!! The passenger side no where near as difficult. Step up to the plate and show the driver side for once!!!
If I did all you would see is arms and darkness. Then you would complain about that. I filmed the side easiest to see so you can see what I was doing. It is the exact same process on the other side just a bit harder to get to. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros It's not the same on the other side because apparently, (because I unfortunately had to do it yesterday), the driver side fuel rail has to be removed to reach the 3rd coil and plug on the driver side.This is a terrible design flaw on a 1999 Ford f150. We as the viewing community go to TH-cam channels like yours, (which I appreciate by the way), to try and find a better solution or easier way. Unfortunately all of you guys always show the easy side. Anyway, at the end of the day, I can't really complain!
Imagine trying to film it! People complain non stop. It is the same process just more challenging, there isn't a magic trick or anything. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video and tips. I was able to successfully replace the spark plugs in my '01 Ford F150 4.6L 2V engine in one afternoon. The back plugs are a challenge but not impossible. The key is to take your time. On the passenger side I had to remove the wire to the fuel injector on #3 (easy) and on the driver's side had to remove the power steering reservoir bracket (easy) to get to #5 and #6. #7 was the most difficult to get to the bolt holding the coil because it was directly under a component connected to the fuel rail. I thought I was going to have to loosen the rail but I didn't. I found I had a smaller than usual height 7mm socket (1/4" drive) that I was able to get on the bolt head with a swivel approaching from the front. I didn't replace the coils because I couldn't afford it and they were all good anyway. Maybe a project for the future. I wouldn't have been able to do any of this without a Duralast Magnetic Spark Plug socket with an attached 6" extension and swivel found at AutoZone (part #52-135).
Nice tip! Thanks for watching!
0
How do I remove the coil connector , 2008 f-150 4,6 Lclub can
Thanks for adding the missing from video but the only info anyone would watch such a “how-to” like this for. Also, I don’t believe it’s advisable to put anise on the spark plug threads. These motors are notoriously known for spark plugs coming loose and blowing out, but you also don’t get proper torque which is what is needed to help prevent the plugs from blowing out the heads, taking most of the threads along with it.
I like how you explained what 8 YT videos in a dang comment thank you sir you are A LIFE SAVER!
Hey, Thank You! Found a lot of videos with crappy lighting, camera angles and description. You by far have done the best. Great work 👏
Very cool! Thank so much for watching!
Best video for changing spark plugs. Easy to see and follow. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
You did a great job explaining everything with real clarity.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
What if the spark plug tip is covered in oil? Is that usually a sign the valve cover gasket needs replaced?
Dude use motorcraft plugs and coils i learn this the hard way i put aftermarket coils and plugs and not long after four months i was there changing them again and man those cheap coils ended up burning the plugs or making them foul all black a sign those coils were not capable of handling the overload and i ended up putting oem coils and plugs motorcraft products
Thank you so very much. Everyone said I have to pull the fuel rail off to change the coil pack. Luckily I have the number one call packs, which the ear broke off on the nut. But now what's you're video? Help me tremendously.
Very good video. Got a misfire in cylinder #8. Of course the hardest one to get to. I am changing all the plugs and coils. Your video was most helpful. Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
Got a misfire on 4. Guess that’s also the hard one.
Did you disconnect fuel rail on either side?
Good vid. So spraying the plug won’t damage engine domw there?
I see you received a lot of praise for this video. I guess I will break that trend a bit. It would have been really nice to see you replace the 2 hardest plugs( the back 2 on the driver's side). This is the information that would help me a lot. I got more help out the the comment by Don Hill. Even at that I am still struggling with that which could be attributed partially to the fact I am missing the forefinger on my right had and couldn't really maneuver the ratchet very well in the tight quarters. ANy suggestions you might have would be appreciated. For now.
Best Regards from Frustrated in Arizona,
James
Here's the thing, think about it from a filming perspective. If I filmed the the back ones people would complain non stop that all they can see is my elbows and darkness. So I show the proof of concept on the easy to to see plugs and that applies the rest of them. It's just a matter of different length extensions for the other 7. I got the other 7 out quite easily with different length extensions and some patience. I'm not even a very large person so I have to crawl into the engine bay to do the work. Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! THIS PROBABLY SAVED ME HELLA MONEY! GOD BLESS!
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you
Good demonstration by a very likeable guy!
How long did those coil packs last?
Well explained on an easy to get to plug. Something most anyone can do without advice. How about #7
Universal thin wall socket snap on. Makes one just for this engine.
Bro your video explains more than all these fast forward videos that dont tell you squat
Thank you the excellent description on job done clear.
You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.
I felt like a badass after you said you don’t have an inch-pound torque wrench and I do.
Also, hate to be a douche, but it’s pronounced “Kuh-nee-pex” on the pliers.👍
I've never needed one until I started this channel and every single person wants every single tiny torque spec ever.
Correct.
HA HA! I knew that you weren't going to show how easy it is to do the plugs to the rear! It's a FREAKING NIGHTMARE and I would rather shoot myself in the face, than ever do it again!
Then you would complain all you can see in my elbows and darkness. The process is exactly the same and it's not that bad. Doing the plugs on a 2014 RAM 5.7 is much much worse. Thanks for watching!
Lol try replacing a started on a 2005 bmw 330ci. This is nothing in comparison
Please do more 2003 Ford repairs.
13 ft lbs seems exceedingly low , given the head designs of there’s triton 2V motors I’ve heard 22-25 ft lbs to ensure less likely for plugs to blow out. Also, any thoughts on copper vs nickel anti seize? I’m having massive misfiring in 5.4L 2V at 166,000 mi and I’m thinking coils .. gonna do all coils and plugs and there’s a world of controversy on anti seize? Thanks good video
That was the spec from Ford. Either is probably fine. The only controversy is people on the internet love to be on a high horse and they love to split hairs on literally every last detail. Thanks for watching!
Thanks a bunch! Very helpful!
You're welcome!
Would it be advisable to do this on a warm engine?
Yeah a little warm not a bad call. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Would it be overkill to check your plug's torque a few hundred miles after you've changed them?
Do you really need to use the dielectric grease/lube on the new plug & coil?
Do it, and use antisieze on the plugs
no you don't - but Highly recommended as it prevents corrosion and makes for easier removal later on.
Truly great vidoe.TY
Thanks for watching!
I was told to torque the spark plugs to 20 foot pounds because, it has been said that spark plugs happened to pop out. I'm not arguing or disputing the fact but, isn't seven more foot-pounds kind of too much?
I just follow what the Ford service manual says. Thanks for watching Neil!
You are correct 22 is the updated # considering the engineers designed only 4 threads in the 4.6 those motors spit plugs all the time. I went to change mine and they were only hand tight. Getting ready to spit them out. Some videos even say go as high as 25 ft lbs. But in reality they need to be looked at and retort if necessary after so many miles. Unless a person wants to take time of installation of inserts. The 4.6 is a two valve motor and is the best of the modular Ford motors. Just never understood how a company that's been making motors longer than anyone else could come up with the idea of putting only four threads in a spark plug hole😂😅. That engineer was probably related to someone 😂😅
Answered all my questions
Thanks for watching!
I was thinking about changing out the wires as well. Can you send a link for that please?
Jesus. That engine looks like they drove it 100k mi through the desert with a horrible oil leak
Excellent,best video
Many many thanks!
I noticed the spark plug threads were not the same length. Is this still ok to use? It won't hit the piston?
It worked fine for us. Thanks for watching!
Good video. Thanks for making it.
What size spark plug socket should I use for a 2002 F-150?
5/8 Thanks for watching!
You were able to get to the rear driver side plug without removing the fuel rail?
Yes definitely. It's a tight and tedious fit but doable. Thanks for watching!
Are these steps the same as the v6
should be similar, but maybe a tad different. Just make sure all your specs are good. So like, your torque and stuff.
Won't these plugs blow out if tightened to factory spec? I've heard torque should be more like 20-25 ft.lbs. With anti-seize of course.
Not to my knowledge. I would fear going harder than factory because of pulling the threads out of the head. Thanks for watching!
What's the secret to getting to the plugs in the very back? I have a 2000 F150 and it seems damn near impossible.
Honestly, different length extensions. It's a tight squeeze but totally doable. Thanks for watching!
Non of these address replacing the #7 and 8 without removing fuel rails
What? You don't need to. I sure as heck didn't. Thanks for watching!
Will this work for the 1997 Ford expedition XLT 4.6 L triton V8?
Yeah it should it is all the same or very similar. Thanks for watching!
i have the same, its wires no coil pack on plug. Easy job but the passenger back one is super tough.
Thanks Buddy!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent info covers all bases .
Glad you think so!
Probably a dumb question, But Is this the same for the 5.4 L triton V8?
2001 Ford F-150
It is but you might want to look up and see if the torque spec is different. Thanks for watching!
Only did one plug?
One question, how do you get the one farthest back on the driver's side?
Swivel and an extension. Thanks for watching!
Should do a video on 5 and 6
I'm doing plugs on a 97 f-150 and it has plug wires and 2 coil packs. I only came here to find out how to get the #4 plug out (passenger rear) All the others are a breeze but not that one, Tried all my wobblies and different extensions. Total PITA
really good video though
Should could be changed always? Or only when needed
Not always it is just a really good idea to avoid head ache in the future. Thank you for watching!
Great video, very helpful. Just wondering, especially on the driver side, did you have to remove the fuel rail to get at cylinders 7 & 8? Was there anything else you had to remove to be able to access them?
Nope. Just a tight fit with a bunch of different extensions. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Thanks!
Great explanation. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
At 1:50 when he pulls the coil something black flings and falls down. 😮
Probably a spider. This truck was filled with black widows! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for the video. I appreciate people like you help others
Go to harbor freight, buy the cheapest socket set with a 7mm socket, and a couple sets of various extensions and wobbles. Take those bad boys home, pop out that 7mm socket, grind it down until its as short as possible but still deep enough to get a good fit on the coil bolts. Profit.
I have a 2009 F-150 4.6L. I'm struggling to get #8 Spark Plug out. I'm not sure what is is called, but it seems like the Fuel Piping coming above #8 Spark Plug, makes it almost impossible to get the socket in straight to be able to loosen and remove the spark plug. How did you get #8 Spark Plug out? Thanks!!
Just a slight universal socket could give you the edge to get it out. Thanks for watching!
i have a 1997expedition ,just changed plugs,coils and wires and still runs rough after 20 seconds of running perfect after starting. going to subscribe ty for any help
Try cleaning your mass air flow sensor. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thank you for the response, I will do that and let you know what happens
turned out to be a break in the injector wire on number 2, used noid lights and was easy to spot. ty for your help the mass air flow sensor did need cleaning.
You only replace coils when the coil is causing drivability problems. You also do not have to replace all of them when one/a couple go bad, just replace the bad ones
You don't have to but if one is bad the others aren't far behind it. Thanks for watching!
Is there not an option to replace a different spark plug rather than the same types that are known to break separate while trying to remove them?
These aren't the ones that break. The 2004-2008 F150s are known to have that issue. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for the quick reply. I just bought a 2004 heritage edition f150 with the 4.6. and I was concerned about that issue.
Idle on my 4.6 2007 explorer is shakey, really do think it’s the coil pack but others say it can be the injectors or spark plugs.( if anyone has fixed that let me know)
Same problem with mine...turned out had two worn injectors...problem solved. I know this is two years too late, but if it helps anyone else. Check injectors if the idle is shaky.
@@LibrastarLibrastar it was the Injectors 😂, sold that truck and got a fully optioned out 2006 4.6 explorer limited with 55,000 original miles. Love these trucks
@@thorproductions1488 Right on bro!
Isn't it the live wire you disconnect?
Thankyou!
You're welcome!
I checked with.my garage 200$ to change my plugs😮 Nash I' ll do it myself
Thanx brother !
Thanks for watching!
Son and I can get those. What about the ones you can't see. Special tools? Tricks? Or just take it to the shop.
13flbs isn't recommended. 25 is. And using anything but Motorcraft is not recommended either
False. It is 13 according to Ford.
@@2carpros The torque spec for the plugs seems to be a hot debate among some mechanics. One thought is to torque to 20 so the plug won't possibly "blow out" especially with a short thread plug. I followed the recommended Ford torque 11 on my 2012 F-150 ECO and those plugs have longer threads. I decided to leave it alone since I may possibly mess something else up trying to retighten them.
Right 13 lbs i beat yeah that truck would be back at your shop with. A blown spark plugs becuase of the low torque
Spark plug 7 was a pain in the ass
Dam that's a low torque i feel that weak torque is what cause the famous spark plug blowouts on this engines so i heard the new torque for the spark plugs is around 20 to 25 lbs i torque mine to 22 lbs
These torque specs are directly from Ford. Thanks for watching!
You showed how to change the EASIEST plug on the engine, one ANYBODY can do...try making a video with changing the ones that are a CHALLENGE!!!
Then you would complain that all you can see is elbows and darkness. I showed the one that turns up best on film. Thanks for watching!
Why not show the harder to get to plugs?
Because it is the exact same just harder to see. Then people would complain nonstop about my hands being in the way. Trust me on this one. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Wish you would have changed the coil packs and plugs closet to the firewall, cause there a pain in the ASS!! LOL
Thanks for watching! I did film them but the footage was all just elbows and darkness. It is really the same I promise it just takes a different extension. Thanks for watching!
Just did this yesterday on a 4.6L 2004. Having a 5/8 spark plug socket with built in swivel AND an extended 5/8 spark socket, with multiple extensions and a separate swivel for use with the extended spark plug socket were a HUGE help. Also to get the coil screw next to the firewall on driver’s side, used a 1/4” drive with several extensions, straight down on to the screw, because I couldn’t get a regular socket with ratchet straight off to the side. Even bought ratcheting 7mm wrench. No luck. Straight down with 1/4” drive extensions and socket did the trick. Lastly, after removing coils soaked plugs in PB Blaster for 1/2 hour plus, while buying 7mm ratchet(which again didn’t work). Per local mom and pop repair shop, saved $330 labor.
@@2carpros
it's not the same by any means. There's a reason why you and others leave that part of the video out on 7 and 8. Those 2 will test ya.
@@bellawright4265 They are the same. You just really have to want it. Thanks for watching.
Dude, YOUR SPARK PLUGS DON'T MATCH THE ONES YOU ARE REPLACING. (3:50) Open your eyes and see this. Car Pro? Not.
*Sigh* They can look slightly different and still be the correct application. That's being a Car Pro. Thanks for watching!
13 ft pounds is not enough , do 22 to 25. 3/8 ratchet 1/4 turn after snug..
That's why I don't put too much stock into torque specs all the time. I got that figure from Ford themselves and if I deviate with my own experience the TECHNICALLY correct internet says mean things to me. Thanks for watching!
Yeah due 13 lbs was the old torque specs before the blown outs they change it to 20 to 25 lbs to fix the blow out issues that came after spark plugs would get lose becuase of the low torque
This is not the 4.6. It is the 5.4
I promise you this is a 4.6L. I have a 4.6 F150 and a 5.4 F150. They look similar but this is in-fact a 4.6L. Thanks for watching!
Hi, This is my truck and I can more than assure you it is a 4.6l V8. Look at the video 44 seconds in it even shows it there.
Long reach pliers
Dude all these videos show the passenger side plug removal. That’s the easy side. Why not show the nightmare it is to do the driver side? It’s done intentionally and it’s misleading. Also, 13 ft lbs torque is a joke. You’re asking for a plug blowout. 20-25 ft pounds is what is needed.
Dude it's like it is impossible to film and if I did people would complain nonstop about how they can't see anything. Also all the plugs are exactly the same. There is no magic for it. Take 13ft lbs up with Ford that is direct from them and I agree with them. 25 might pull the threads out of the head it is just aluminum not iron.
Thanks for watching!
Every last one of you TH-camrs always show the passenger side change. None of you show the driver side, WHICH IS THE HARDEST SIDE AND THE SIDE PEOPLE WANT TO SEE!!! The passenger side no where near as difficult. Step up to the plate and show the driver side for once!!!
If I did all you would see is arms and darkness. Then you would complain about that. I filmed the side easiest to see so you can see what I was doing. It is the exact same process on the other side just a bit harder to get to. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros It's not the same on the other side because apparently, (because I unfortunately had to do it yesterday), the driver side fuel rail has to be removed to reach the 3rd coil and plug on the driver side.This is a terrible design flaw on a 1999 Ford f150. We as the viewing community go to TH-cam channels like yours, (which I appreciate by the way), to try and find a better solution or easier way. Unfortunately all of you guys always show the easy side. Anyway, at the end of the day, I can't really complain!
LoL no one wants to show how to take out the spark plugs on the drivers side..🙄
They are all the same, just use different extension lengths. Thanks for watching!
I don’t blame them. Kind of hard to show the back plugs with such little space and lighting
Enespañol
That's alot of anti sieze in my opinion.. anyone else agree?
Nah, thanks for watching!
No they are not all that easy to pull. Try #6-8
I did off camera and while tricky it's not impossible or anything. Thanks for watching!
You only showed changing an easy one...#4,7 and 8 r a son of b****...especially 7 and 8.
never seen a 4.6 seize the plugs,the 5.4 is the problem child
Only the 3v 5.4L can be a problem. I have a video on that too. Thanks for watching!
You say do it for all of eight of these like it's easy The plugs in the rear of the engine are huge pain in the ass to get to.
Imagine trying to film it! People complain non stop. It is the same process just more challenging, there isn't a magic trick or anything. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros We want magic tricks damnitt. Lol.
Thanks so much for your great information!
Glad it was helpful!