I watched several other people try to explain how to do this and I felt uneasy after each one. Then I watched your video and it was the most well explained process, answered all my questions, and put in mind that I can do this successfully. A Very well done video!
Hilarious that @YestoGaming is calling you a noon as he clearly shows hes a noon @ TH-cam. Also keep in mind that even a clear explanation is lost on a feeble mind.
'' You dont want to inhale this.. i dont want to inhale this !'' Great Video ! very well explains, using clear explanations and shooting angle.. thanks a lot.
Good tip, but it's easier and safer for the batteries if you apply solder to your connecting strip as well and then place it facing the battery cap so when you apply heat, both solder covered points melt very rapidly and so it takes a very little amount of time.
He said at the very beginning of his video that The wire he was using was already tinned with solder. If you noticed all he did was tap it with the soldering iron and it was already tacked to it. Very very brief application of heat this man knows what he's doing.
I have been going through lot of videos aka battery building, but yours is pretty different you're amazing, with your teaching I'm probably going to build my electric battery
Drill a small hole through the connecting strip at each solder point about 5mm, tin the strip at the hole (just filling the hole) and tin the battery with a small amount of solder, then connect the strip by soldering through the hole in the strip to the battery and adding a small amount of solder if needed, being fast as the strip will retain heat. The solder will flow between the strip and the battery creating the perfect joint.
pro-tip: use magnets to hold tab wire down. I use an insulated screw driver in my other hand to hold the tab down as I solder so it cools in place (makes a good joint). The problem I find is if you lift the soldering iron without pressure on the tab the tab could lift with the iron.
Awesome showing!!! I will make my new quad batteries this way with your methods. THANK YOU for the SODER....ING. I understood you. GET YAH SOME OF DAT Michael!
Pls tell me ur not using 18650 cells, in a high discharge system like a quad. I guess it could work on a long range system, with relatively high discharge cells, but still...
This is the best video for this application... I see the welding videos and that welding machine is expensive plus once welded it is not easy to disassemble.
The positive battery end is a button, so less thermal mass to heat up while soldering your metal strap. This button sits on top of a ring that conducts when warm to cool. It is a (PTC) positive temperature coefficient thermistor that has low resistance until it gets hot. How hot, it depends on the size, thickness and specs for known resistance at degrees C/F. I am sure that many Li-ion batteries made, sold and assembled everyday from toys to tools. I use a 400 watt soldering iron with paste flux. Holding the strap down with the metal tips of needle nose pliers is fine but still effects thermal mass. What happens if the joint lifts apart while liquid? Use a paint stick or golf tee. They are would and won’t draw any heat. Get in and get out!
very nice, thanks for high temp reccomendation, 896F, very thin layer of flux is necessary, VERY THIN too much means you spend too long trying to solder and ruin the batteries. I was using too much and too low temp Also sand paper helps remove the top oxide layer from the metal which naturally happens if the batteries are used and or exposed to oxygen.
you should use stainless steel flux (very minimal application to avoid residual flux, as it is corrosive). with a 60-100W iron and a blunt tip you can tin the terminals in less than half a second
Good info! I wish I could afford a battery spot welder but unfortunately I can't even afford a decent soldering iron! I have a crappy one from Radio Shack! The tips are interchangeable but of course they only included a tiny one and wanted like $8 each for different sizes! I just took the included tip with me to Lowe's and got a 5" piece of copper rod that was the same diameter (like 4mm I think), then I just filed down the end until it was the perfect shape! Works really well!
@@steveandrews8301 It’s been a while but I think the last one I saw was in Atlanta… unless you’re doing fine precision electronics I’d suggest a soldering gun. If you’re feeling cheap, Harbor Freight makes a decent one but get the extended warranty because you’ll probably need it!
@@Blakehx Speaking of Radio Shack, do you happen to know of a replacement store, physical store or online, for Radio Shack? I really hated to seem Radio Shack close down like they did. Thanks.
I used tin from a spaghetti sauce can cut into strips. It worked. Originally used a butane soldering iron but it only marginally worked. I later used a 60 watt iron that worked great.
hi vuaeco I have a question my wife bought a 240v food mixer and it worked once but no power now.its well made a krups but can I bypass switch to see if motor ok and if motor spins I can fit new switch,it has keypad thing.will leave that on top to keep waterproof and have switch coming out underneath or just use wall switch maybe?steve going send video
Sand paper the battery surface and clean it with isopropanol before applying flux and soldering. You will have a piece of cake soldering process if you do that.
Great instructional video. Thanks! I want to replace a pack of 10 330 mah nimh batteries with new ones. The new ones have posts at the + end. I need to remove or flatten those posts in order to make them fit in the pack. How can I do that? Thanks
I'd insulate the positive battery terminals, otherwise your positive strips can melt through the shrink wrap while soldering causing a short on the battery case.
thanks for this video. i want to replace the battery pack for some of my snap-on power tools with lithium cells. i was always worried about trying solder lithium cells cause i heard you have to be certified to do it and there's a possibility of explosion if you get them too hot. i will attempt this on my own now. thanks again💪
Thanks for making this video. In the last part you mentioned “it’s easy to replace the failed cell” One question- how would you know which cell is failed?
Just fully charge the whole pack and check the voltage. Any cell that has low voltage, there might be something wrong with it. I explained in very details in this video: th-cam.com/video/cGBag85qN0U/w-d-xo.html
@@vuaeco But if they're all wired together, already, how would you just isolate and test each individual battery in such a pack? Thanks. I'll check your link out, too.
Sir, you highly exceeded the heating time of negative casing of those cells.. I use old 50w russian solderingg iron with big tip ( a bit bigger than yours) to ensure high enough thermal mass .. In combination with alpha solder, my pre-soldering ( applying sokder to the metal casing) usually takes 1, maximum 3 seconds, no.more .. If i need to apply more solder , I wait until the cell cools.down , but usually I apply enough right away. Also I need to point out absence of insulating rings on positive dide in your case. . . While soldering the strio, you are taking chances of shorting those cells .. If I don't use insulating rings, I usually lift the strip away from the cells a bit, and let it dip down only in places, where strip makes contact with the cell. . negstive casing around positive terminal has only a thin plastic foil as an insulator and it can melt and make you sad very quickly . .. good.luck with your projects 🙏💪
I have a Sunko Battery spot welder, it makes short work of welding nickel strips to the cells and there is no heating of the battery. I used to solder them, but I had too many issues with the wires coming off of the negative terminal, due to poor adhesion. If you make a lot of packs like I do then the spot welder will pay for itself.
That's debatable. If you make 18650 packs in an industrial scale then yes, the spot welder will pay for itself. Even if you make a lot of packs yourself, the cost is roughly the same. Nickel strips aren't cheap. This guy HBpowerwall who has a TH-cam channel and he makes mountains and mountains of 18650 packs and he solders all of his packs. And if you have a dead cell right in the center of the pack and need to get it out to replace with another cell, spot welding is a pain in the rear end to fix that. Whereas desoldering only takes a couple seconds.
9:50 A good explanation but it'll help a lot to clean and then scratch/scuff those contacts before flowing solder on them. That will give the solder a better grip and contact point to grab on to.
I've actually found this to not be the case while soldering contacts onto CR2020 batteries to put into GameBoy Color cartridges. The areas I scratched up with sand paper held solder less effectively than the spots I didn't touch and in the end I wound up having to use a new battery from my pack which took far less effort to solder than the one that overheated and was scratched to begin with.
@@NearEDGE If that can help! There is sanding and soft sanding. I smoothly sanded with #220 and used alcohol isopropylic to clean the tip of the batteries and then flux before soldering. When I soldered I apply the tip of the iron, 3 sec max. I have done my drill pack battery for 3 years now without any problems.
Would using tin-bismuth solder work better as its melting point is 138C'. My concern is that in my application of an e-bike running at 50V and 20amps so 1kW this may be dangerously close and may start to effect the mechanical properties of the solder.
Nice demonstration, I ordered some tin strip/wire, not very large, so the cost is not very high. Is it more dangerous to solder a healthy element than a dead one ? I made some test with the soldering iron and I think I did not heat too much , but will it be so cool with the new batteries. ? Thank you again for the demo and explanantions , the proof was in the pudding ;) What heat level limit (I can check that I did see some relatively low ceiling , about 45° centigrade but not sure it can create a heating cycle at that point)
GOOD demo, but it is quite easy to use a small ( 30 amp 12v) lead acid motor bike battery as a inexpensive spot welding tool ,there are a few videos on TH-cam showing how to build it,
What is used to solder tin tabs to very tiny flat batteries size of a nickle?? i want to replace my old batteries in a auto darkening welding mast... thax
@@nfreddyyy gaahahahaha giys I dont even remember this comment😆 Or why I didnt say I WAS JOKING! I usually say jk🤗...... I left it out out that comment😑 I was jk! Did it really work vuaeco ....?!!🤣😂🤣
Okay and with the way that you connected these batteries, what is the voltage of it now? Is that going to be 36 volts or is that just 12 volts three volts?
cool. i go with what i got i'm repairing an old power tool battery. its 28 volt and I don't know how i would go about replicating it with 18650 batteries. i'd need 8 of the cheaper ones i found to get 28 volts but would i link them in series or in parallel?
Random Moustache Guy I've tried using copper strips for my ebike pack, they are very hard to solder as the copper is such a good heat conductor - the other end of the strip is pretty much as hot as the part you're working on. It makes it really awkward having having to heat it, and when you do the other solder spots you've already done pop loose since the whole strip is up to solder melting temp. Also was worried it seemed to hold a lot of heat and take a while to cool down, definitely dumped a lot of heat over fairly long time in the ends of the batteries. I ended up using he copper strips but most of them are compression connections, not ideal and you dont want to know how much tape I used to keep it tight! Just watching this vid, that lead coated strip looks like a godsend. Am literally going to go find some on ebay now. It doesn't look like it would take a huge amount of current though so I think the wire at the end of the battery pack should be connected the whole way down a strip in parallel, rather than just at the end of a strip of the lead coated stuff. I'd have to recommend the strips in this vid or nickel strips (haven't tried to solder them though). Good luck if you try the copper, hope it goes better than it did for me!
Steven Cassidy That's a very good point you mentioned about the heat when soldering copper wires. All are true and that's the reason why nickel strips are far more superior than copper wires. Not to mention Nickel strips are flat so they don't stick out like a sore thump. As far as current carrying capacity, the nickel strips can still handle a lot of current. If your project requires a lot of current, just put a lot of extra solder on top of the strip to make it thicker and that should help it carry much more current. If you watch other videos I made especially the "home made Plexiglass cutter", it goes over 50 Amps and it runs just fine and no heat.
vuaeco I should mention I was using actual copper strips cut with "tinsnips" - like metal strip cutting scissors - so it was probably quite a bit thicker than if I had stripped wires. Not sure the dimensions but I'd guess 4x1mm. Not sure stripped wire would cause as many problems as I had, I imagine the heat conductivity problems would be the same but it probably wouldn't dump as much heat in to the batteries as my strips did.
![4BANG - NOT LIKE US (REMIX) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HO22cYkha1s/mqdefault.jpg)
Where u from bub? Chinabama?
That was bum
Well, now he's not going to give you advice on how to add solar panels to your trailer home.
I watched several other people try to explain how to do this and I felt uneasy after each one. Then I watched your video and it was the most well explained process, answered all my questions, and put in mind that I can do this successfully. A Very well done video!
The reason the other people have trouble explaining this process is because they have inhaled too much flux
This is one of the most articulate, information-rich instructional videos of any that I've seen on TH-cam. Many thanks!
absolutely the clearest explanation ,thank you for taking the time to make this video.
nope
U noob
@phục êwê u noob
Hilarious that @YestoGaming is calling you a noon as he clearly shows hes a noon @ TH-cam. Also keep in mind that even a clear explanation is lost on a feeble mind.
'' You dont want to inhale this.. i dont want to inhale this !'' Great Video ! very well explains, using clear explanations and shooting angle.. thanks a lot.
extremely clear and explaining how the + and - will be different
Good tip, but it's easier and safer for the batteries if you apply solder to your connecting strip as well and then place it facing the battery cap so when you apply heat, both solder covered points melt very rapidly and so it takes a very little amount of time.
He said at the very beginning of his video that The wire he was using was already tinned with solder. If you noticed all he did was tap it with the soldering iron and it was already tacked to it. Very very brief application of heat this man knows what he's doing.
@@jared1228 where can you buy these strips ??
@@efdawahfan "tabbing wire for solar panels"
@@whophead6837 i just bought 5mmx0.2mm copper tabbing solar...its this equivalant of 7mmx0.2mm nickel ??
@@efdawahfanAmazon
I have been going through lot of videos aka battery building, but yours is pretty different you're amazing, with your teaching I'm probably going to build my electric battery
Thank you for this video. Even though it is old it still helped me fix my battery pack. A quick grind on my solder iron and all is great.
Awesome video and very easy to understand. Thanks a lot. I would appreciate more content from you.
Drill a small hole through the connecting strip at each solder point about 5mm, tin the strip at the hole (just filling the hole) and tin the battery with a small amount of solder, then connect the strip by soldering through the hole in the strip to the battery and adding a small amount of solder if needed, being fast as the strip will retain heat. The solder will flow between the strip and the battery creating the perfect joint.
great tip, thanks
Thank you for this video, it gave me the information I needed to start soldering!
Very good video. Thank you for exactly explaining everything in detail. 👍👍👍👍👍
This helped me a lot. Thanks for the video. Now i have a 21 volts 6 ah battery that i made for less than half the price.
Great tutorial, very helpful and informative
Great video. I have never seen this wire. I look good for this application.Thank You
Maybe if I keep watching i can build ebike battery. Your technique is great.
In a very simple and easy to explain the process. Nice video thanks.
Thank you brother. You just saved me a bunch of time
pro-tip: use magnets to hold tab wire down. I use an insulated screw driver in my other hand to hold the tab down as I solder so it cools in place (makes a good joint). The problem I find is if you lift the soldering iron without pressure on the tab the tab could lift with the iron.
I do this with tweezers. When that solder melts, the tabbing wire acts more like a filament or a foil, right?
Awesome showing!!! I will make my new quad batteries this way with your methods. THANK YOU for the SODER....ING. I understood you. GET YAH SOME OF DAT Michael!
Pls tell me ur not using 18650 cells, in a high discharge system like a quad. I guess it could work on a long range system, with relatively high discharge cells, but still...
this is very helpful for a project i'm in the middle of. these 18650 cells are tricky to solder.
Nice video ! I am adding This to my playlist!
Your one of my best TH-camr and make great videos.
Its a great lesson I just learnt... Pls I need more tutorials more on Li-ion cells management
..
Dude you sound exactly like Buk-Lao (Ownage) lol. Very good explanation, this really helped.
He's my twin from another mother. :D
This is the best video for this application... I see the welding videos and that welding machine is expensive plus once welded it is not easy to disassemble.
Brilliantly done. Keep it up
The positive battery end is a button, so less thermal mass to heat up while soldering your metal strap. This button sits on top of a ring that conducts when warm to cool. It is a (PTC) positive temperature coefficient thermistor that has low resistance until it gets hot. How hot, it depends on the size, thickness and specs for known resistance at degrees C/F. I am sure that many Li-ion batteries made, sold and assembled everyday from toys to tools. I use a 400 watt soldering iron with paste flux. Holding the strap down with the metal tips of needle nose pliers is fine but still effects thermal mass. What happens if the joint lifts apart while liquid? Use a paint stick or golf tee. They are would and won’t draw any heat. Get in and get out!
very nice, thanks for high temp reccomendation, 896F, very thin layer of flux is necessary, VERY THIN too much means you spend too long trying to solder and ruin the batteries. I was using too much and too low temp Also sand paper helps remove the top oxide layer from the metal which naturally happens if the batteries are used and or exposed to oxygen.
Thank you very much! Simple solution!
scuffing the cell with a scotch bright pad or fine sandpaper just prior to applying the flux will help your solder flow out much nicer
Saves money instead of buying a spot welder. Thank you sir!
I purchased a cheap spot welder and it is absolute crap
NIce job man thanks I pulled the plate on one of my batteries and wasn't sure if I could solder it or would need to use a spot welder
Very good video. I learned a lot.
Very helpful video! Thanks
Very good. Clear instructions.
Perfect soldering . Thats very useful for me . Thank you sir .
Very clear explanation! Thanks!
you should use stainless steel flux (very minimal application to avoid residual flux, as it is corrosive). with a 60-100W iron and a blunt tip you can tin the terminals in less than half a second
Good info! I wish I could afford a battery spot welder but unfortunately I can't even afford a decent soldering iron! I have a crappy one from Radio Shack! The tips are interchangeable but of course they only included a tiny one and wanted like $8 each for different sizes! I just took the included tip with me to Lowe's and got a 5" piece of copper rod that was the same diameter (like 4mm I think), then I just filed down the end until it was the perfect shape! Works really well!
Great idea! P.s., I thought Radio Shack went out of business years ago? Where did you find a Radio Shack, these recent days? Thanks much.
@@steveandrews8301 It’s been a while but I think the last one I saw was in Atlanta… unless you’re doing fine precision electronics I’d suggest a soldering gun. If you’re feeling cheap, Harbor Freight makes a decent one but get the extended warranty because you’ll probably need it!
@@Blakehx Speaking of Radio Shack, do you happen to know of a replacement store, physical store or online, for Radio Shack? I really hated to seem Radio Shack close down like they did. Thanks.
Thanks you, your video is very detail
Fantastic video, thank you.
I used tin from a spaghetti sauce can cut into strips. It worked. Originally used a butane soldering iron but it only marginally worked. I later used a 60 watt iron that worked great.
3:20 did anyone notice ant-man cameo
Nice video. Well done!
thank you for the video....great job.
This guy’s commentary is perfect
Excellent video ....Thank U ;-)
Thanks for making the video. What is that tin wire called that you use?
That was excellent! Thank you very much!!!
thanks super and excellent info one saves tons money
What a great video fully helpful
hi vuaeco I have a question my wife bought a 240v food mixer and it worked once but no power now.its well made a krups but can I bypass switch to see if motor ok and if motor spins I can fit new switch,it has keypad thing.will leave that on top to keep waterproof and have switch coming out underneath or just use wall switch maybe?steve
going send video
I usually drill a 2mm hole on those nickel strip so it would be much easier to solder them.
Sand paper the battery surface and clean it with isopropanol before applying flux and soldering. You will have a piece of cake soldering process if you do that.
Better flux remover with acetone
Very good tips, thanks.
Very nice tutorial!
Great instructional video. Thanks! I want to replace a pack of 10 330 mah nimh batteries with new ones. The new ones have posts at the + end. I need to remove or flatten those posts in order to make them fit in the pack. How can I do that? Thanks
I'd insulate the positive battery terminals, otherwise your positive strips can melt through the shrink wrap while soldering causing a short on the battery case.
thanks for this video. i want to replace the battery pack for some of my snap-on power tools with lithium cells. i was always worried about trying solder lithium cells cause i heard you have to be certified to do it and there's a possibility of explosion if you get them too hot. i will attempt this on my own now. thanks again💪
apply the tip of your iron maximum 3 sec.
Thanks for making this video. In the last part you mentioned “it’s easy to replace the failed cell” One question- how would you know which cell is failed?
Just fully charge the whole pack and check the voltage. Any cell that has low voltage, there might be something wrong with it. I explained in very details in this video: th-cam.com/video/cGBag85qN0U/w-d-xo.html
@@vuaeco But if they're all wired together, already, how would you just isolate and test each individual battery in such a pack? Thanks. I'll check your link out, too.
nice work !
Very nice job!
If you have two solder tips your can double the heat on the negative side thereby making it a lot easier.
Thanks, nice and clean.
Sir, you highly exceeded the heating time of negative casing of those cells.. I use old 50w russian solderingg iron with big tip ( a bit bigger than yours) to ensure high enough thermal mass .. In combination with alpha solder, my pre-soldering ( applying sokder to the metal casing) usually takes 1, maximum 3 seconds, no.more .. If i need to apply more solder , I wait until the cell cools.down , but usually I apply enough right away. Also I need to point out absence of insulating rings on positive dide in your case. . . While soldering the strio, you are taking chances of shorting those cells .. If I don't use insulating rings, I usually lift the strip away from the cells a bit, and let it dip down only in places, where strip makes contact with the cell. . negstive casing around positive terminal has only a thin plastic foil as an insulator and it can melt and make you sad very quickly . .. good.luck with your projects 🙏💪
Where do you get that flat tin wire from
Nice soldering job, just use a fine sand paper to get a better grip.
The best accent on TH-cam.
Sounds abit Vietnamese, abit alabamese
I have a Sunko Battery spot welder, it makes short work of welding nickel strips to the cells and there is no heating of the battery. I used to solder them, but I had too many issues with the wires coming off of the negative terminal, due to poor adhesion. If you make a lot of packs like I do then the spot welder will pay for itself.
That's debatable. If you make 18650 packs in an industrial scale then yes, the spot welder will pay for itself. Even if you make a lot of packs yourself, the cost is roughly the same. Nickel strips aren't cheap. This guy HBpowerwall who has a TH-cam channel and he makes mountains and mountains of 18650 packs and he solders all of his packs. And if you have a dead cell right in the center of the pack and need to get it out to replace with another cell, spot welding is a pain in the rear end to fix that. Whereas desoldering only takes a couple seconds.
Absolutely great video with great info. Where can I buy this wire and how do U call that?
How thick should the bus bar / wire be for 32700 lithium batteries? I'm making a motorcycle starter battery. Great video BTW
9:50
A good explanation but it'll help a lot to clean and then scratch/scuff those contacts before flowing solder on them. That will give the solder a better grip and contact point to grab on to.
I've actually found this to not be the case while soldering contacts onto CR2020 batteries to put into GameBoy Color cartridges. The areas I scratched up with sand paper held solder less effectively than the spots I didn't touch and in the end I wound up having to use a new battery from my pack which took far less effort to solder than the one that overheated and was scratched to begin with.
@@NearEDGE
If that can help!
There is sanding and soft sanding. I smoothly sanded with #220 and used alcohol isopropylic to clean the tip of the batteries and then flux before soldering. When I soldered I apply the tip of the iron, 3 sec max. I have done my drill pack battery for 3 years now without any problems.
Wonder if the manufacturers would take suggestion to pre-tin these batteries?
Would using tin-bismuth solder work better as its melting point is 138C'.
My concern is that in my application of an e-bike running at 50V and 20amps so 1kW this may be dangerously close and may start to effect the mechanical properties of the solder.
brother you are amazing,
Very concise!
Thank you for helping
My pleasure.
Nice demonstration, I ordered some tin strip/wire, not very large, so the cost is not very high. Is it more dangerous to solder a healthy element than a dead one ? I made some test with the soldering iron and I think I did not heat too much , but will it be so cool with the new batteries. ? Thank you again for the demo and explanantions , the proof was in the pudding ;) What heat level limit (I can check that I did see some relatively low ceiling , about 45° centigrade but not sure it can create a heating cycle at that point)
GOOD demo, but it is quite easy to use a small ( 30 amp 12v) lead acid motor bike battery as a inexpensive spot welding tool ,there are a few videos on TH-cam showing how to build it,
Why mind are like boiling sounds after paralleling them? It's safe?
Could you use ice packs around the battery while you are soldering it
What is used to solder tin tabs to very tiny flat batteries size of a nickle?? i want to replace my old batteries in a auto darkening welding mast... thax
AWESOME VIDEO SIR
You could drill a hole in the tape above each battery contact, you don't need as much tin and you will heat the battery less!!
What is that stuff you used for the solder tab again? I just have 2 AAA i need solderd together. Great video!
Solar bus wire or tabbing wire
I never has solder flow so easily even with flux and large tip, what tricks you use.
Hi.. Can i ask you quection, how many volt all the ten seeds this battery? Thank you
Use a "Q"- Tip to flux the joints, it is far easier to meter the flux amount and precisely control the area of application. ☺
But you're gonna waste too much flux.
@@vuaeco earwax works too.. just dont get too much on the q tip.. and besiiidesss! Its only like 4 bucks for a good amnt of fluxxx!
@@stickboyfpv4742 I just tried my ear wax and it worked! And besides, my flux cost a whopping 5 bucks plus tax!
@@stickboyfpv4742 wow really lol. Most try!
@@nfreddyyy gaahahahaha giys I dont even remember this comment😆 Or why I didnt say I WAS JOKING! I usually say jk🤗...... I left it out out that comment😑 I was jk! Did it really work vuaeco ....?!!🤣😂🤣
Are you using solid nickel strips, or is it nickel plated strips Vuaeco. Thanks. Great videos.
It's called bus (tabbing) wires for making solar panels. They are nickel strip with tin/lead layer on top for ease of soldering.
Excellent. Many thanks. 👍
Do you clean off the excess flux?
Okay and with the way that you connected these batteries, what is the voltage of it now? Is that going to be 36 volts or is that just 12 volts three volts?
Can i use regular copper wires stripped to connect all of these? I'm just getting into electronics and could use some help
You can. But remember to use thick wires as these use very large current.
cool. i go with what i got i'm repairing an old power tool battery. its 28 volt and I don't know how i would go about replicating it with 18650 batteries. i'd need 8 of the cheaper ones i found to get 28 volts but would i link them in series or in parallel?
Random Moustache Guy I've tried using copper strips for my ebike pack, they are very hard to solder as the copper is such a good heat conductor - the other end of the strip is pretty much as hot as the part you're working on. It makes it really awkward having having to heat it, and when you do the other solder spots you've already done pop loose since the whole strip is up to solder melting temp. Also was worried it seemed to hold a lot of heat and take a while to cool down, definitely dumped a lot of heat over fairly long time in the ends of the batteries. I ended up using he copper strips but most of them are compression connections, not ideal and you dont want to know how much tape I used to keep it tight! Just watching this vid, that lead coated strip looks like a godsend. Am literally going to go find some on ebay now. It doesn't look like it would take a huge amount of current though so I think the wire at the end of the battery pack should be connected the whole way down a strip in parallel, rather than just at the end of a strip of the lead coated stuff. I'd have to recommend the strips in this vid or nickel strips (haven't tried to solder them though). Good luck if you try the copper, hope it goes better than it did for me!
Steven Cassidy
That's a very good point you mentioned about the heat when soldering copper wires. All are true and that's the reason why nickel strips are far more superior than copper wires. Not to mention Nickel strips are flat so they don't stick out like a sore thump. As far as current carrying capacity, the nickel strips can still handle a lot of current. If your project requires a lot of current, just put a lot of extra solder on top of the strip to make it thicker and that should help it carry much more current. If you watch other videos I made especially the "home made Plexiglass cutter", it goes over 50 Amps and it runs just fine and no heat.
vuaeco I should mention I was using actual copper strips cut with "tinsnips" - like metal strip cutting scissors - so it was probably quite a bit thicker than if I had stripped wires. Not sure the dimensions but I'd guess 4x1mm. Not sure stripped wire would cause as many problems as I had, I imagine the heat conductivity problems would be the same but it probably wouldn't dump as much heat in to the batteries as my strips did.
I wonder how much current that bus wire is rated for?
good video, thx!
I feel like that would carry more current versus tack welding
great video,every important detail explained.Where can i find an ant like the one running on youre finger at 3:20?
Very good catch! I didn't even see it myself!
good video thank you