ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Here We Take A Deep Look At How To Fix The Diamond ELRS V4.3 BMI270 Flight Controller / Mobeetle That Flys Like Hot Garbage
Update 11-07-2022: There have been some movement in tuning out some wobbles and the lipo draining in less than 45 seconds using 0802 25,000kv motors. This issue also heated the motors beyond something I would consider acceptable. I need to get more stick time on my problem child, but there's hope. I just finished a fast 3 minute rip and resting voltage was 3.70v (300mah R-line 1S). Also, the motors were nice and cool. Stay tuned for the tune, Lol.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
For ADVANCED USERS Only:
Check your board - 6:11
Start BetaFlight = 9:40
Prep Dump File = 13:07
Check Gyro = 14:43
Bootload Flash New Firmware = 17:05
Settings
1. VTX Ports tab = 21:08
2. Battery 4.5v = 22:02
Diff File = 22:30
1. CW90 = 24:46
2. Telemetry On = 25:00
*Turn Off Airmode
4. Turn VTX down to 0 = 25:52
Preset RC-Link = 28:05
Angle Adjustments = 32:30
Motors tab = 34:08
After Build
1. Motor Reorder and Arrangement = 38:18
OSD = 40:32
CLI RSSdbm Warning Correction = 42:15
ESC Firmware BlueJay = 44:24
Closing Statement = 48:46
Here is the outline I used with all the links to where to go:
Preparation
1) Copy and Paste Stock Dump File
2) CLI Status for Inspection of Correct Gyro
3) CLI Version for Target
Flash - CrazybeeF4SX1280 (July 12, 2022 4.3.1)
Go to HappyModel Website - www.happymodel....
A) Copy and Paste CLI Diff File -
Mobeetle6 ELRS diff all_for_DiamondF4 ELRS V4.3_Betaflight4.3.0 RC3 Diamond
NOTE: F4 ELRS V4.3 comes with BMI270 MPU
B) Load V2.0 Smart Audio - github.com/bet...
***NOTE: The correct VTX Table is already included with the DIFF
Preset - Pick & Load ELRS 500hz
A) Look At PIDs Tab For Jitter Changes
Set angle strength (38/40) and limits (61/71)
Set rates (Personal Preference)
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Propsoffohio@gmail.com
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Easy to put vtx in pit mode or 0 power before doing any of this. Not saying don’t use a fan…
Indeed, it's so easy nowadays with the advancements in Betaflight too...🍻
watched this 5 times it just keeps getting better
🤣 it's a start to finish tutorial. It's meant to be watched and followed along as you go. Stop jumping around...🤨
@PropsOff you build a uwl 75mm yet?
@@mfrfpv9079
Yes, I was in the first ever race...🤪
th-cam.com/video/lwt4chgVPMw/w-d-xo.html
I spent days on this with the exact same problems and this one video fixed everything! Thank you so much for making this video!
Man Jason, you made my day! Been a stressful one and this feedback definitely turned a frown, upside-down...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Little update. Did this build on a Fractal65 and it is fantastic. Love how I can fly close to the ground and makes quick corrections, especially since I am still new to this. Thanks again PropsOFF!
Your update is very much appreciated. So fun to skim the ground as fast as possible...🍻
I have 2 mobeetle6 units. The V2.0 flies great. The V4.3 does not fly well at all. I will go through the process tomorrow to see if it can be saved. Thank you for taking the time to do the research to let the community know what you found.
So far, including last night, 4 have been "saved"... I would really appreciate it if you follow this process and have the same good results, and report back...🍻
I have one of these boards in my Mobeetle, it came with a MPU6000 so I don't have the problem you fixed with this video. But having watched it I did pick up on some other points you're addressing. The rssi_dbm has was bugging me too, so i turned it off completely. Going to set it up as you did, should fix it for me aswell, so thank you... good stuff here.
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback. I didn't think about some of the other things I cover helping out, super cool you noticed this change. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Great video ! I use these FCs as Tinyhawk replacements (in another frame). They are the Frsky due to the rtf controllers.. I’ve been lucky, I don’t remember any major issues.. other than some Betaflight settings .. I can easily see it causing issues to new builders..thanks for the info
Just curious, what version is your board? These are V4.3 printed on the edge. My V2 boards were better, however, still needed a little Betaflight. The three V4.3 boards I've received are basically unflyable. This past Friday night's race was amazing for me, I have never experienced such control, power, and smoothness. Stoked to do it again. A Tinyhawk replacement, that seems interesting - unique motors...
I just followed this and now my mobeetle 6 flys 100% better. I just need to learn to pid tune now. THANKS
I did need to pull the P/I slider down 2 increments. I'm currently working on a tune because I run 0802 25,000kv motors. I really appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Dude... I have the mob6 elrs with 19k motors and this tune works awesome!!! I put triblade props on it and it is rock'n. I have better throttle control Thanks for this video! I have serveral Diamond boards that I will be building racing whoops with here soon this rocks! Thanks for sharing!
As I sit here whoop racing, you made my night! I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@propsoff Anytime brother.... I have been flying on and off for a while now... but circumstances have led me to fly more and is part of my therapy. Love whoops as I can now fly almost any time I want. Send it!!!!
Hello Everyone! Thank you for subscribing to my channel and giving your support and feedback! Here we look closely at the Mobeetle or Diamond ELRS F4 flight controller V4.3 board. Many that I have and been involved with are absolutely flying like HOT GARBAGE!
Let's fix it! Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Much love, this is far by the best BF and Mobeetle tutorial. My combo is the Betafpv literadio 3 and the Mobeetle. Never felt good...I calibrated the LiteRadio 3 to perfection (it has the upgraded gimbals and no jitter. It is spot on) and that wasn't the problem. I put a tune on from the presets and it wasn't helpful. Sooo, I put the AngryDon tune and settings he had done...rates are good, but not much help.
After your video, I turned off the Bidirectional D shot and changed the PID loop to 3.2k! IT WORKS!!!! Soo very nice. 1.6k PID loop made it bobble.
My only issue is the VTX. 25 MW works good in the house, but outside it was OK. I put on 100 MW, more static and felt like 25 mw outdoors. It also lost power too (not sure why)...I checked the VTX tables and power outputs. My guess is the proximity of the antenna to each other or maybe the VTX antenna is not long enough???
We've had a number of Diamond boards having issues at the races. During check in, we found some only outputting 8-12mw on 25mw setting. They get stomped on during a 4up race. Do you have anyone around with an ImmersionRC RF meter?
I appreciate your encouragement and support...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@propsoff No RF meter availability yet, lol. I could buy one. What about the the antenna length? The wire is 15 mm, maybe a smidge longer. I measured from the base to the tip and it not perfectly straight, close but not perfect.
@eric coker
Having a fairly straight antenna pointing up (perpendicular) from the board is ideal. The length for that antenna is 15.3mm..
Man, I want an RF meter for myself (my club has one), but they're $100us...😳
@@propsoff I got 16 mm after another measure, so split the difference, lol
15.5 mm. I watched another YT vid on antenna length and 12.93 is the ideal length for 5.8k. I use Raceband #8. Might switch to Raceband #1 to see if that makes a difference. I know Raceband #1 works better on 2 of my other micros.
15.3 mm is tuned to 4.9k. So that could be an issue? Not sure
Excellent video!
I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I'm first time here and you're literally Bob Ross of FPV..
🤣🍻
Thanks for your help. By far the best tutorial / advise I have seen so far for the mobeetle6.
Have you flown it before and after? I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@propsoff yes. It was not good before. I couldn’t find any info so tried the quicksilver firmware with the project mockingbird template. It was good but there was a lot of motor trilling noise I couldn’t tune out. Went back to 4.3.1 with your video and it’s much better now. It’s my first brushless whoop so not alot to compare with
@@jenkyrc
The trilling noise is a big issue of what I had before too. Battery eater and bobbling through the air...
I'm glad this helped you too. I'm getting 3 to 4 minutes of flight, depending on the track...🍻
@@propsoff same here. About 3:30. The quicksilver firmware might make a good tutorial as well. If I was more experienced I may have had more luck with the settings. They have done a great job with the online configurator.
@@jenkyrc
I'm currently going to look more at BlueJay due to it being an Open-source project. Honestly, I only have whoops with Blheli_s ESCs. All my quads are 32. I have never looked at the Quicksilver firmware, however, I did set up a friend's Tinyhawk with Project Mockingbird - was a game changer for that quad..
Dude thank you so much. Betaflight’s always been a bit confusing to me but you made everything make so much sense and went through everything so solid. You’re a legggend 🙏
I appreciate your feedback and encouragement. Betaflight, ExpressLRS, Bidirectional Dshot, etc. can be a real chore. Glad this was helpful...🍻
@@propsoff of course! I was flying Quicksilver prior to this and although it flew decent, there was just too many weird little glitches and what not while flying. I just wasn’t super happy with it but you got my x12 Fractal setup flyin like a dream now! Thanks again :)
Ты мне очень очень помог! Спасибо,товарищ!)
Your welcome, I appreciate your support and feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
This video saved the day! Thank you so much for making this. Subscribed!!
I appreciate your support and feedback. Welcome to the PropsOff family! I'm certainly glad it was helpful...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Great video, thank you! Watched it 3 times already, keep learning something new each time. For some reason i have "V4.3" printed on PCB but it has ICM42688P gyro 🤷♂
I think that HappyModel is using the same PCB. I have the BMI gyro. However, I'm going to be working on a friend's diamond board that has the ICM... I've been debating about doing a livestream on 4 different boards, but I haven't decided yet.
I appreciate your encouraging words...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Note...There is diff file specific to the ICM vs. the one I use in this video for the BMI. I used it on the Superbee and wasn't pleased with it, so I tuned it from scratch. You should try it on the diamond (same target for both boards using the ICM as far as I can tell). The filters are different from the BMI and ICM....
@@propsoff Hi, have you been able to get his board decentlly flying ? I got the v4.4 of the board with the ICM gyro and it gives me the exact same behavior than there : th-cam.com/video/5C3RGUSsdLM/w-d-xo.html I'm afraid that that fc is unable to fly well the way it's designed.
@@BouncebackFpv
I have three ICM42688P boards running now. Lots of tuning and drastic filter changes from factory dump. However, these are all whoop related. There's no way these boards would fly even decent from factory. I think I got 45 seconds of flight from one - after tuning, 4.5 to 5 minutes easy and the motors are not melting...🤯
I have more testing to do and will be releasing my results. The problem seems to stem from the processor choice and voltage filtering going to said gyro. I don't have anything nice to say about the manufacturer in that video you sent due to the terrible specs they have when related to Elrs.
@@propsoff Thanks for the feedback, I will definitely look forward to your results with these. I got 2 to 3min flight time with 25000kv on 65mm which is okay for me, but the
Thank you sir 🎉
@@omardjperez
So great to have you a part of the stream today...🍻
Comment for the algorithm. Nice job
I appreciate your support and algorithm enhancement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Excellent Video !Thank You!
I appreciate your support and feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Nice one man! Awesome video!!! This is very helpful!!
Flying much better now?
I appreciate your support and encouragement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Little off topic. Did you print that box yourself ? Just wondered if you had a link to the STL? Looks well designed. 👍🏼
A really cool person, Mike, designed it and printed me one as a gift. I later got a printer and asked if I could print a few myself. He was totally awesome to place the files on Thingiverse for me, and heres the link...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4140396
@@propsoff thank you so much and also to Mike!!! Loving the content BTW.
I'm pretty sure blheli_s started doing bidirectional dshot on versions 16.71+ but I still just use Bluejay. I know that blheli_s 16.71 had issues with whoops for some reason but I haven't tested the latest versions.
Fantastic Content
Much Appreciated feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I ordered a replacement stock bord after buying and using your video as help to bind the Batafpv controler and this is what they sent me when I wanted the original one again can you bind this to that same batafpv 2 lite remote
I see you have 2 separate messages. I'll respond to the most recent. See you there...☝🏻
BUILT EXACT COPY, short answer yes :)
My biggest issue with this board is the very high amps. It dropped from 4.12V to 3.1V in just seconds. But after idling, the voltage climb back up to 3.7V
Yes, the way this board is set from the manufacturer is garbage, shame on them for such a fail. The 12 steps in my video get it close, and just a little tuning more, will yeld a good clean flight of 4 to close 5 minutes with an ok 300mah lipo...🤞🏻
So basically, pid tuning affect flight time, correct?
@@masyrafmasyraf8086
Absolutely
Subscribed I will be ordering this soon and I am sure I will need some guidance!
It's frustrating to me when I receive a flight controller and the firmware out of the box is unflyable. In this video there is a step (1 of the 12) that you need to get the diff file from HappyModel's site. The ICMxxxxx Gyro version has a different diff file - its on their site. I'm assuming you'll get that gyro.
Welcome to the PropsOff family...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Thank you mine is doing the same shit
Hopefully, this will help...🍻
I’m on silverware so luckily the newest dev build fixed this horrible gyro with similar features like you did in betaflight
Mine is a Fractal 65 26000 kv. Flies like a dream now.
@@carbonEYE007
Awesome...🍻
Hey 👋, I read many comments here. Seems many people can confirm some diamond FCs are just faulty from factory.
Mine is soldered up and when I apply more than ~30% throttle, it has really bad oscillations. I tried lowering the PI gains and also the filters. No chance it's any better. Also I changed the motors. No improvement.
I bought mine af fractal designs directly. He wants me to flash quicksilver or return it. I guess I will give it a try.
Returning it is unlikely, because shipping costs are really high back to Taiwan.
Do you have any idea if the oscillations are a bad gyro or maybe bad FC (some kind of bad resistor onboard) ?
I'll do your steps before flashing quicksilver.
Otherwise I will have given happymodel my 65 dollar for nothing.
Probably I'll buy where I can return it next time. Thanks
Mine Flys good now (2 of 4 dead though).. Do follow these 12 steps and should help.. I've had good feedback from people that were ready to throw it in the trash.
@@propsoff thanks man. I went through the hex file and diff from happymodel. No better.
I installed quicksilver. Really awesome software for whoops. Much better, but still oscillations. Must be a faulty gyro/FC.
But I really can say quicksilver is great.
@@chrisbee5481
I appreciate your feedback...🍻
i cant get mine to bind normally now, radiomaster zorro elrs
I had a decent response to this video, and, like you, I made this video... Hope it helps...🍻
th-cam.com/video/J3CoYYqEiZU/w-d-xo.html
I got 3 😁 😁 😁 qc is rough nowadays 😕 😪 😔
I hope the best for you. Of the 3 I built, only one works and I'm still tweaking to make it on rails. For your 3, I will have my fingers crossed...🤞🏻🙏🏻
So I checked and I do not have same Gyro ....so I do not need to do all this correct?
If it flys smooth, your good...
It shows its bound up with mybatafpv remote but won't respond to controls on copter or in bataflight
You will need to go into the Betafpv lite radio 2 configurator and modify it to D16 instead of D8. Then, you will have to go into Betaflight and change it from FRsky_D to FRsky_X in the receiver tab. The above protocol is built-in spi. This is something I've experienced with others that own the Lite II. I do not have that radio, and some of the people who did opted to replace it with something else. I'm not sure if they followed the above method...🤷🏻
@PropsOff thanks man that was fast I've bin trying to figure it out why does it need d16 mode all of a sudden insted of d8 also I'm still a bit new so is it d16 ffc or lbt
You do have this radio tho I bought the same one as yourse for the original mobula6 bind video
@@daytonburke7437
FCC is basically the world except EUROPE (EU - LBT)...
@@daytonburke7437
The radio I have is the V1 and it was completely changed in the next version. The V1 has no configurator, you cannot calibrate the sticks, etc. They did lots to the firmware and one of those changes is the loss of D8.. Unfortunately, the flight controller manufacturers have said it is recommended to use D8 but D16 will work on some flight controllers. It's been a very frustrating thing for lots of people.
Hello everything is fine ? Dude, this video helped me a lot a while ago, my mobeetle6 has been really fun since then, but I've already made some modifications to it, like frame, propellers, and today I put 0702 28000kv motors, at the end of the video you say using different motors and that I would change the PID, can you tell me a PID configuration for these motors? I'm very new to this and I still don't really understand how this part of pids works
I'm glad your having a fun time, and got a good board. That KV shouldn't change the flight characteristics very much. If its oscillating, you can move the master slider up or down one notch. Learning to tune feels like another hobby in its own...🤣 It's nearly impossible to get a perfect tune from one quad to another. There's always tweaking...🍻
@@propsoff in fact the pids in the video seem to be perfect with these engines, when arming the engines the noise of the propellers rotating is zero, it is very silent, I believe that if I have to change something it will be very little, but I will fly a little more before change something, the next modifications I will make is to place a lollipop antenna on the VTX through the video and solder it directly to the FC with a jumper to ground, and I want to modify the ELRS antenna too, I have a T jumper for the V2 and it came with defect in the internal module, Bangg00d reimbursed me a good amount, so I bought an external module, but yesterday I thought, inside there must be a good UFL antenna that can be reused, perhaps in my drone, but when I opened the radio in the antenna there was an antenna ufl, this antenna is soldered to a small chip of perhaps 2 cm and on this chip there are 2 "antennas" soldered which are actually thin twisted steel cables, I have never seen an antenna like this with exposed wires but it looks a lot like those antennas that they form a T, would it be possible to place this antenna in place of the copper wire? I cut the ufl tip and it has the mesh to solder a grounding wire and an active element in the middle, it seems to be quite possible to use it right?
@@Buh1718
Indeed.. I actually remove the copper wire for all the Elrs receivers and replace them with a good quality fine strand wire (fine strand copper 30awg wire). I cut the length to 32.8mm...🍻
@@propsoff thin tinned copper wire? the same as what we use to connect the FC to the motor, or what we use to make a jumper on the vtx antenna? Or does it have to be tin-free copper wire?
@@Buh1718
Same wire we use to connect the motors to the flight controller. Just simple fine strand wire. RX and VTX if you want to..
RX - 32.8mm
VTX - 12.9mm
hey this might be a not so smart question but are these issues only with the ELRS version? I have the FrSky version on the way so I'm not sure if this applies to me, and being brand new at drones I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell if something is wrong lol
This is a very good question. I'm not familiar with the Frsky version, however, PIDs are PIDs no matter the receiver. If your quad shows up and you get 1 minute of flight with a proper lipo (HappyModel lipos are garbage), you should get 3+ minutes of flight. I have been getting three and a half to four minutes. My current whoop (no video yet on my channel) is getting over 5 minutes. Even being new, you'll be able to hear oscillations and the battery will go flat very quickly.
@@propsoff okay I will look out for those signs and come back to this if I have issues, thank you!
@@BodieMoto
I would appreciate it, I don't know anyone with the Frsky version and I'm curious if HappyModel sent them out with Absolute garbage firmware too...
Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@propsoff looks like makerfire sent me the ELRS version lmao just got it a few hours ago and it all seems to be working fine, beside me being terrible lol
@@BodieMoto
I'm very glad it's all working. Now time to fly...🍻
Has anyone had an issue with getting betaflight osd? I just built a fractal75 with the diamondf4 4.3 from a mobeetle6, and everything works perfectly, but I can't get any of the osd to display.
I'm having issues with my VTX. It set to SmartAudio 2.1 and I think it should be on 2.0 instead. I have the VTX set to R8 25mw and when I'm racing on any other channel when I crash the VTX goes straight back to R8 and it's very annoying! Any help thanks!
Sounds like the smartaudio command isn't saving. Did you set it in Betaflight VTX tab, and it still does it?
@propsoff yup set a different channel in bf and in the bf lua and still when I crash the vtx goes straight to r8! I was wondering if SA 2.0 instead of 2.1 would fix this?
@@baggszilla
I haven't tried 2.1, there's a specific VTX table for this board, as I show in my video.
Hey brother I have aux 11 and 12 going crazy and do not know what they are linked to. Do you know why? Thanks.
Yes, those channels are your rssi and link quality.
No need to mess with them, they are telemetry outputs.
@@propsoff thank you sir!!!!
Do you recommend these over happymodel fullsize F4 crazybee elrs (a part from the weight difference)?
I do like the motor pads for direct soldering. Other than that, it's the weight savings.
@@propsoff i'll go with fullsize then. Feels like a better controller with better component layout. Thank you!
@@marukothekid
I have both. I was thinking of upgrading my 1S "MobyPick" to get 8+ minutes of long range..
@@propsoff I'm putting together a crazyf4 elrs & ex0802 22000kV with mobula7 v4 frame, 450 battery. 75mm gives me more control or at least that's what I feel. And I heard people getting 6+ mins flight time with em motors and up to 9-10min like you said with a 650 battery. Thanks again!
@@marukothekid
Sounds super fun! Locally, we are getting some 75mm "Street League" quads together for racing. Your quad is very similar to the specs I've been given. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Have the same board, and it is flying as garbage. Can you please tell us how you fixed it?
can you bind the mobeetle with elrs 3.0 ?
Interesting question, I will be waiting for more bugs to be worked out before trying it myself. There are developers notes saying it can be done and Betaflight 4.4 is on the way. There is also notes from 7 days and two weeks ago to the release. I would direct you to the notes for more. I'm excited to see this project progress and have personally learned, the hype is real...🍻
github.com/betaflight/betaflight/pull/11783
How did yours not fly well before doing these changes? Because I’ve got a new diamond fc and it needs like 90% throttle just to stay in the air and my VTX even at 400mw is giving me breakup when I’m flying just a few feet away.
It managed to move through the air, sorta.. I would laugh, but this is ridiculous that I purchase a flight controller supposedly designed for the Mobeetle and its a Betaflight salad in there. I had to do 12 things and now its amazing. Did you complete my video and do the same things? How is it? Did I do ok? I appreciate your feedback...🍻
@@propsoff how about the VTX? As that’s a big concern on mine. I’m gonna go through it once I get back from work and I’ll let you know 👍
@@zeesh0267
The diff file takes care of that too...🍻
@@propsoff righto, I’ll let you know how it goes. Fingers crossed 🤞. This is my second board as my previous one had a bad esc
@@propsoff I tried everything you did in the video. No luck :(. Having shorts on every motor pile is odd though. Even on my d board where 3 of the escs do work
Hey brother... i have two issues. One of my mobeetle builds is having a vtx issue, not sure if there is a fix for this. The second is... after a bit it starts to vibrate and idle rouphly. Any thoughst? Thanks.
Did you follow this video - 12 steps needed....?
@@propsoff yup... bad boards. thank you sir.
@@ChristKrew-Rev1.8
It's ridiculous! I had 2 of them of 3 go bad and my Cincinnati homie just posted a picture of six he has that are trash.. Not to mention the numerous people that have contacted me with bad boards...🤦🏻♂️ What's going on over there at HappyModel? They actually expected me to ship the boards to them to look at... I'm not free RND...
Sorry I didnt see your post till late, I've been really busy. I'll try harder next time...🍻
No worries brother I have a busy life as well. Yeah these boards are horrendous especially at like $68 a pop with shipping. It sucks as they only fit the parameters that we’re looking for in a board trying to look for another option. It will be a little heavier, but oh well, as long as I can keep flying, that’s all I care about at this moment. Stay frosty brother.
@@ChristKrew-Rev1.8
I actually did just that, I got a Superbee and the Betafpv (10/2022) boards and built 2 quads. I'm running 0702 motors with a pinch cam and OVX300 vtx. They weigh less than my dimond quad with 0802s, plus no video issues - so far.. They seem to be doing well. I got 4 races under my belt with them and if they survive this weekend's races, I may do an overview video. Both needed much tuning...🙄
Yeah I’m getting about 13ohms on every single motor pole 😳
I sent back for refund two boards now, one had dead short continuity between motor poles and ground - frustrating. Just last night, I was trying to repair a ground pad that lifted - failed. I wish I could help them design a better PDB...🤔
@@propsoff it’s a real shame, because they are amazing when they work. And in the UK it’s hard to find stock anywhere, so we gotta just use what we have
@@zeesh0267
That's exactly right, amazing of they work. So much packed onto a tiny board. Too bad it's hit and miss with the quality control. They need to actually fly each one instead of a bench test, idk..
@@propsoff much agreed
omg... what did i bought? Srlsy? My vtx seems to be dead. No signal when pluged battery in. already turned off low vtx power when disarmd. still no channel visable... Maybe it is burned cause of the socked 400mW. Also i got strenght runaways for no visable reason....
Have you seen my video yet? Ridiculous, I had to modify 12 things just to fly it.. My VTX didn't work, it would "Runaway" from a tiny bump, it would wobble through the air, it would eat a 380mah 1S in less than a minute, etc... Hence, I made this video and after many, many, MANY hours, it flys great. I'm getting 3 to 4 minutes of rippin now too...
@@propsoff not so far cause it is 50 min long :D. But i do not know if it makes sense because my vtx is still dead.
@@propsoff do you even know a problem of the fc when the vtx does not work or do you think my vtx is burned out?
@@quadview3025
🤔.. Things to check:
Quad is powered correctly
The VTX table is set up
The VTX and goggles are on the same
The output of the VTX is set to 25mw +
That should be it, that said, I've had two new Mobula6s show up with bad VTXs and I sent them back. I really am at a 40% failure rate with HappyModel. Sad but true. Still like them better than Betafpv though.
@@propsoff thx. And btw thanks for your Video and work... Yes i tested a few batteries. Also vtx table is set up. The problem is that there is even no video output. I checked bands with rapidfire - 0 outputs...also changed vtx channel in video trans. Tab. I have bad experience sending flightcontrollers back... Most of the time shops are not happy about that and say that theire customers broke it.
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IMO BT 2.0 is pure junk! The pins pull out easy AF. Unless maybe get the prewired ones.
Be careful of the amount of heat you apply to the BT2.0.. If you heat the pins too much the housing will melt allowing the pins to pop out. I've personally not had any issues like that and they seem very secure - almost too secure. You may find this video helpful...🍻
th-cam.com/video/5eRF9DAdcWc/w-d-xo.html
@@propsoff I am sure that is what I did. Or when I was spinning the connectors away from one another I did something? Just seemed to fiddly for me lol so I went xt30 .
@@Gamebit450
The pins are too close and they spin easily. Lots of people have the two pins, at the solder point, rotate and short together. I place a piece of hot-glue in between before I heat-shrink them to stop this from being an issue.
On a different video, you mentioned subscribing - Welcome to the PropsOff family...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Your video is very blurry.
Go to the gear icon
Click on it
Look for quality
Change from low number to 1080p
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