I went out back with a group of people, being the only mechanic in the group, I ran at the rear so if some one did break down I didn't have to back track, I turn my snorkel intake backwards, even though we left big gaps in between too let the dust settle for better vision, They all laugh and paid out on me for being a idiot and doing it, guess who was the only guy who didn't have to replace my air filter(even though I had a spare)and clean out my air box lid or air box.
David Vizard has given the best explination on how the kn filters work and why they dont test great on simpler filter test rigs, they work simerlar to the hairs in lungs with the pulses of the engine intake moving the fibers which then catch the debris.
Bugger me four years without cleaning it. Unbelievable. I would’ve used a lot of factory paper filters in that amount of time with this much off-road probably 10 filters 500 bucks worth of air filters ha ha crazy stuff
@@Fourby4Diesel looking like it's been a good investment as well as a great result with your own testing. I definitely can't see anything wrong with that.
@@Fourby4Diesel I like the k@n for the way they flow lots of air and easy servicing of the filters,but I am mindful to stay out of the dust because they don’t filter as good as paper or oiled foam filters .You have said it yourself in this video and others that the K@n keeps pulling air even when it is full of dust and debris and paper filters plug up and blows smoke
Other TH-camrs (Automotive Engineers) have set up jigs to contaminate all different brands (20 plus tested) of air cleaners of which K&N was one. The results were mixed but K&N were poor performers on all tests, and very poor performers in some critical areas that directly contribute to engine wear. IMO with services at 5000klms it likely will cause less harm to services double this length anyway, so go ahead roll the dice if you do decide to use a K&N or similar air filter with oil changes at 5000klms…I won’t be. I know you have anecdotal evidence from experience and to the lay man it appears convincing (and to me too). Interesting some “high quality branded” air filters performed poorly and at the other end, there were some reasonably priced lesser known brands that performed way above the average. I actually have a K&N filter that I have put back in it’s original plastic bag it came in and has been on the shelf for years. One thing I like about the genuine is the additional layer before the normal part for the purposes of trapping larger particles such as insects etc. Quite clever really. This means the larger particles are kept away from the breathing element allowing a more reliable airflow. (Side comment: Cotton will not degrade in the sun…think of the cotton on the plants sitting in the sun day in day out before they get finally harvested…it the natural fibres could not take the sun we would not use cotton. Think Cotton Shirts, don’t they make them SPF 50 plus?). Maybe if the filter sits drying in the sun longer than a month, then it’s possible degradation is worth looking into. But no way will cotton degrade in a few hours. In a month or more it’s highly likely to degrade due to other reasons such as mould, bacteria, fungi etc etc. An observation on the dirty filter: There were more dense dirty areas and some areas that were still quite clean. So IMO the air differential across the air filter would be at that point fairly low. So I do believe the manufacturers (K&N) claims about increased airflow. Personally, I’ll take advice from an independent automotive engineer with fully disclosed methods of testing and data acquisition from sensors over a visual in an air box. Just because there is little to no evidence ON THE WALLS of the clean side of the air box does NOT mean it isn’t going through to the engine. You do whatever you want, but I will stand behind the science testing being performed every time.
Bit of a long one I’ll read it later. I don’t know how they come up with the results. I just prefer to come up with mine and all I know is I see lots of vehicles with the same air box because I specialize in plenty of paper filters, and everything else with more dust on the Clean side than this filter being the cleanest thankfully, since it’s my car so to me my own evidence rules over whatever somebody else has done it’s up to you, people to work out which ones The best example
@@Fourby4Diesel Totally understand where you are coming from and to be honest I had expected to see some dust where I remember in that video you had cleaned. I had been waiting for the results you experienced since that video. The automotive engineer was testing mainly European air filters, but his testing can’t be argued with. I wasn’t surprised to see K&N had the most of a particular sized particle unfiltered. He did use cement. Now I’m wondering if cement dust is actually finer than our common road dust…in this case the results are not a true representation of the particles we need to filter. I might look into that, as that could be key to these tests. My personal use of the K&N did not find insufficient filtration, but again, this wasn’t scientific testing, so all I know is bugs clog them up making them impossible to clean (your backwards facing snorkel top eliminates this issue well, I think). The other issue was oil travel and I do remember it had effected the MAF sensor even though I was careful not to over oil. At the end of the day each owner needs to make the best decision they can for their vehicle. I was once told the genuine air filter has a silicone like coating over the cellulose. Perhaps it works just like the oil in cotton gauze that K&N. RYCO have a serious testing rig and say that their products meet or exceed their competitors. Obviously, how would we know as this data is all in-house. Dust versus cement particle size, that is the unknown variable that we need to know.
Now that I had a look: Cement powder sizes 10-20 micro meter Dust powder seem to be much larger. So the experiment uses particles generally smaller than dust. In this case, for our application the test is irrelevant. Just thought you should know. I thought about an exposed bit of sticky tape as a means of finding how much passes through the filter. Real world experiments are not scientific based as you cannot simulate the two driving environments again…however, doing 10,000 klms with each filter on the same roads should give a reasonably accurate result. Just need a microscope to examine each piece of sticky tape for opacity (the amount of light blocked). The more light is blocked the more dust is unfiltered. This can give a good relative result providing the roads driven over each period is similar. A bit long winded of an explanation, but I hope you get my meaning.
I went out back with a group of people, being the only mechanic in the group, I ran at the rear so if some one did break down I didn't have to back track,
I turn my snorkel intake backwards, even though we left big gaps in between too let the dust settle for better vision,
They all laugh and paid out on me for being a idiot and doing it, guess who was the only guy who didn't have to replace my air filter(even though I had a spare)and clean out my air box lid or air box.
Warm water helps a lot when cleaning
I just use Toyota genuine filters,and they do the job.
I juts put a ryco in my prado, it was a very snug fit compared to the Denso OEM. I liked it.
Great video 🤙🍻
David Vizard has given the best explination on how the kn filters work and why they dont test great on simpler filter test rigs, they work simerlar to the hairs in lungs with the pulses of the engine intake moving the fibers which then catch the debris.
David Vizard is my Messiah
Am using the same filter in my one great performance 100% happy👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Well this was better than that time my mechanic cleaned it but never applied the oil
I use dish soap and atf on mine no issues
14:43 the trick is not following patrols with their boily boy soot machines.
👍
I service mine every 10k and use clothes dryer with a shoe rack to dry it, they're a excellent filter.
The one I installed came apart from the inside. Realy messed up my carburetor.
yeah you already had it installed 4 years ago but don't know how much longer. you were explaining the pink dot on factory filters 1kz 1kd.
Bugger me four years without cleaning it. Unbelievable.
I would’ve used a lot of factory paper filters in that amount of time with this much off-road probably 10 filters 500 bucks worth of air filters ha ha crazy stuff
@@Fourby4Diesel looking like it's been a good investment as well as a great result with your own testing. I definitely can't see anything wrong with that.
If your a frequent strong coffee drinker you can get the shakes.
Anthony! What about when the oiled K&N filter gets hot and covers your MAF sensor in oil ...
😂
I think people over oil, or under oil them, which causes issuee.
But wait there's more
I use a K And N in my Prado and my bikes but after seeing all that dust in your air box,I think I will go back to paper filter.
It was clean
🤷♂️🤣
@@Fourby4Diesel I like the k@n for the way they flow lots of air and easy servicing of the filters,but I am mindful to stay out of the dust because they don’t filter as good as paper or oiled foam filters .You have said it yourself in this video and others that the K@n keeps pulling air even when it is full of dust and debris and paper filters plug up and blows smoke
Works much better than paper
I run a k&n filter, and the clean side of my air box stays so clean compared to a standard filter. I'll never go back to a standard filter.
Other TH-camrs (Automotive Engineers) have set up jigs to contaminate all different brands (20 plus tested) of air cleaners of which K&N was one.
The results were mixed but K&N were poor performers on all tests, and very poor performers in some critical areas that directly contribute to engine wear.
IMO with services at 5000klms it likely will cause less harm to services double this length anyway, so go ahead roll the dice if you do decide to use a K&N or similar air filter with oil changes at 5000klms…I won’t be.
I know you have anecdotal evidence from experience and to the lay man it appears convincing (and to me too).
Interesting some “high quality branded” air filters performed poorly and at the other end, there were some reasonably priced lesser known brands that performed way above the average.
I actually have a K&N filter that I have put back in it’s original plastic bag it came in and has been on the shelf for years.
One thing I like about the genuine is the additional layer before the normal part for the purposes of trapping larger particles such as insects etc.
Quite clever really.
This means the larger particles are kept away from the breathing element allowing a more reliable airflow.
(Side comment: Cotton will not degrade in the sun…think of the cotton on the plants sitting in the sun day in day out before they get finally harvested…it the natural fibres could not take the sun we would not use cotton. Think Cotton Shirts, don’t they make them SPF 50 plus?). Maybe if the filter sits drying in the sun longer than a month, then it’s possible degradation is worth looking into. But no way will cotton degrade in a few hours. In a month or more it’s highly likely to degrade due to other reasons such as mould, bacteria, fungi etc etc.
An observation on the dirty filter:
There were more dense dirty areas and some areas that were still quite clean. So IMO the air differential across the air filter would be at that point fairly low. So I do believe the manufacturers (K&N) claims about increased airflow.
Personally, I’ll take advice from an independent automotive engineer with fully disclosed methods of testing and data acquisition from sensors over a visual in an air box.
Just because there is little to no evidence ON THE WALLS of the clean side of the air box does NOT mean it isn’t going through to the engine.
You do whatever you want, but I will stand behind the science testing being performed every time.
Bit of a long one I’ll read it later. I don’t know how they come up with the results. I just prefer to come up with mine and all I know is I see lots of vehicles with the same air box because I specialize in plenty of paper filters, and everything else with more dust on the Clean side than this filter being the cleanest thankfully, since it’s my car so to me my own evidence rules over whatever somebody else has done it’s up to you, people to work out which ones The best example
@@Fourby4Diesel Totally understand where you are coming from and to be honest I had expected to see some dust where I remember in that video you had cleaned.
I had been waiting for the results you experienced since that video.
The automotive engineer was testing mainly European air filters, but his testing can’t be argued with.
I wasn’t surprised to see K&N had the most of a particular sized particle unfiltered.
He did use cement.
Now I’m wondering if cement dust is actually finer than our common road dust…in this case the results are not a true representation of the particles we need to filter.
I might look into that, as that could be key to these tests.
My personal use of the K&N did not find insufficient filtration, but again, this wasn’t scientific testing, so all I know is bugs clog them up making them impossible to clean (your backwards facing snorkel top eliminates this issue well, I think).
The other issue was oil travel and I do remember it had effected the MAF sensor even though I was careful not to over oil.
At the end of the day each owner needs to make the best decision they can for their vehicle.
I was once told the genuine air filter has a silicone like coating over the cellulose.
Perhaps it works just like the oil in cotton gauze that K&N.
RYCO have a serious testing rig and say that their products meet or exceed their competitors. Obviously, how would we know as this data is all in-house.
Dust versus cement particle size, that is the unknown variable that we need to know.
Now that I had a look:
Cement powder sizes 10-20 micro meter
Dust powder seem to be much larger.
So the experiment uses particles generally smaller than dust.
In this case, for our application the test is irrelevant.
Just thought you should know.
I thought about an exposed bit of sticky tape as a means of finding how much passes through the filter.
Real world experiments are not scientific based as you cannot simulate the two driving environments again…however, doing 10,000 klms with each filter on the same roads should give a reasonably accurate result.
Just need a microscope to examine each piece of sticky tape for opacity (the amount of light blocked). The more light is blocked the more dust is unfiltered.
This can give a good relative result providing the roads driven over each period is similar.
A bit long winded of an explanation, but I hope you get my meaning.
I clean my k&n every service
4 years incl offroad 🤣🤣🤣