Engineering Explained MY MECHANIC ONCE TOLD ME ENGINE MOUNTS CAN GO BAD FOR DRIVING ON S COLD ENGINE. TURBULANCE MAYBE? ANY SCIENCE BEHIND THAT? HE SAID JUST WARM IT UP A TAB BIT USUALLY 15S
1) my ambient temperature never drops below 25°C Do I still need to warm it up? 2) when don't use my vehicle for more than a week, it doesn't stay on unless I use atleast half throttle (it's carbeurated), is it okay to warm it by racing?
me 2..thank god it even has turbo so its even faster heating ..and off course its company car ..so i can meassure -20 celsius to 90 celsius times off coolant
Celsius is no more useful for day to day use than fahrenheit. It also isn't always useful in science where you often need an absolute scale. Why would Americans switch when we don't care if the rest of the world likes it or not?
@@GuyFromJupiter because metric is far superior to American measurements. Celsius for example is based on a scalr to fit important temperature gradients like water freezing at 0 C and boiling at 100 C
A few things that you might not have thought about when operating in extremely low temperatures. While it is true that a 0w engine oil will flow reasonable well and warm up pretty quickly. Other fluids like the transmission fluid and power steering fluid on hydraulic steering systems will take a much longer time to warm up or never warm up in extreme cold situations. It is also more critical that you reduce the stress on these systems when you start driving. Grease and Fluids in the differentials, CV joints, ball joints, etc. can be very thick at -40C and not only are they less effective at lubricating but increase the load. It should also be noted that the engine oil should be whenever possible completely warmed up during the drive. Moisture in the crankcase gasses quickly condenses when the engine is turned off and will make its way into the oil. If the water does not get boiled out of the oil and pushed out of the crankcase ventilation system it can freeze components of the crankcase ventilation system causing further problems, reduce the effectiveness of the oil, cause corrosion inside the engine, and over time sludge build up. If there is an accumulation of white milky fluid under your oil cap then the engine is not getting hot enough. Avoid short trips and extended periods of idling.
You also have to think about the other fluids in the car. Like power steering, and transmission. I've noticed a big difference in how the car shifts and how easy it is to turn from when the car is still cold to warmed up.
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Engineering Explained I drive a diesel landcruiser in -35 with the block heater cause I love in Canada with a block heater is it alright if let it warm up for 5-10 minutes
You seem to be forgetting that oil flow, fuel atomization, and comfort aren't the only reasons to warm your engine up. Consider metallic expansion. Aluminum pistons are going to warm up a lot faster than the cast iron or steel cylinder liner and the engine block full of coolant. It's better for the engine to warm up more slowly so the pistons and engine block expand at a more similar rate. When you start and just drive off, the piston expands much more quickly than the cylinder causing it to fit more tightly, and in turn creating more wear and in some engines even causing permanent damage. Just ask anyone who drove a V6 GM car in the mid to late 1990s who didn't warm them up before driving. They had a lot of piston failures due to this metallic expansion. It's still better to allow your engine to idle for 5-10 minutes before driving off in cold weather. Oil change interval should also be shortened a bit in this time due to the extra contamination.
Rhino Willy's Exactly. Ever seen the bore of an engine that wasn't ever allowed to warm properly? Noticeably accelerated wear and piston scuffing. Nice Jeep, btw!
The standing advice is, if you drive the vehicle immediately or after a short warmup, it should be driven moderately. That means getting up to street speed slowly. But if where you live you have to immediately enter the stream of traffic on a highway or boulevard you might not be able to do that. Engines do warm up more quickly if the vehicle is moving though. A lot of people don't have ten minutes in the morning. You must be either self-employed or retired.
Jeff I'm right below you in Grafton North Dakota! it's best for block heaters and letting car warm up for sure. by the time it takes you to get all the snow of your car, it's usually ready to go.
Jeff I'm right below you in Grafton North Dakota! it's best for block heaters and letting car warm up for sure. by the time it takes you to get all the snow of your car, it's usually ready to go.
Engineering Explained thanks to you now I know the basic facts about every car component. Btw, I'm studying management engineering, so I thought it was important to know these things
We have been to -20F here in the Twin Cities, MN this year. Unusually warm lately with temps near or above 30F. Usually January is more like 0F to -20F all month. And Florida sucks. I can think of many other warm states I would move to WELL before Florida.
Chad Bremer you don't live far from me! lol people don't understand cold until they've suffered winters like us. last week the wind chill was factored to be below 53f! even without the wind it was -30! but these videos are ALWAYS directed at people who idle for several minutes in 30 degree weather.
metalhead2508 I have worked the oil patch in South Texas heat and North Dakota arctic. lol. I was living in MN for both. just flew back and forth. I can take the heat and the cold now. I am a gluten for punishment I guess.
Chad Bremer Nice to see another Minnesotan on his Channel. But I agree with you this year weather in MN is bipolar. I just had a remote starter installed into my Car. Since the weather is nicer there's no point of starting my car anymore.
I live in Moscow, so sometimes the temperature gets really low, below -40C. I'm driving 2012 Volvo XC90 and never actually had any problems with starting up in the cold. Just wait until revs calm down to ~800RPM and you are good to go. Normally it takes about 40-60 seconds, depending on how cold it is and how far ago the previous launch was.
In cold winter weather I warm up the truck for about five minutes, to get the fluids somewhat warm and the windows de-iced/defogged. In very cold weather (from minus 20 down to minus 40C) I use the block heater for a few hours, then run the engine for a good ten minutes. It takes that long to de-ice/defog anyways. My wife and I are still driving twenty and twenty-five year old vehicles, with no end in sight, so obviously we're doing something right. We care about our vehicles, so we have always ignored the 'start and drive' advice so fashionable right now.
Realize that as long as the high temperature viscosity number is the same then you can have different low temperature numbers. A 5W oil is always preferred over a 10W oil since it will make the engine run lighter even at moderately low temperatures which lowers your fuel consumption. The wider viscosity range may be a bit more expensive though, but it evens out on the fuel cost account, especially in Europe.
Jay R the fine is about 10 Euro give or take. I have never seen this law being applied in real life though. But in theory you have to start up your car with no option of letting the engine warm up for a few minutes or cleaning the car from ice while running
@@Conrailfan2596 Oh god no. The only New Yorkers who move to Florida are from trashville Long Island(which are not even New Yorkers). There are only two alpha++ global cities in the wolrd and one is NYC. Now why would I leave that to go see some alligators and old people? because that's all you got, swamps and old people.
I live in Edmonton.....I agree with you on this vid, and thought I'd add, a block heater heats your rad fluid, but there is no point in leaving it going all night, it will only heat to a point in half-hour to an hour...any more and you're just wasting energy. your battery won't freeze if it's fully charged, but if your battery is bulging, it's done.
That was a really intriguing video that I enjoyed! One must also remember that even though the coolant temperature is up to par, your engine oil does not follow suit nearly as quickly. For example, I've driven the 2003 BMW M3 and 09 M5 on numerous occasions. Within the first 5 or so minutes, the coolant temperature is up to temperature. However, the oil is still barely reaching 100F. It can take up to 10-15 minutes before the oil is property up to temperature and even longer still. I wish my new car had an oil temperature sensor. :)
I have always appreciated the fact how he does his best to break everything down into layman's terms! It's why i subbed to him couple year's back, glad he's still the same :)
This is awesome! I've been wanting to do that experiment for a couple of years now! How about a comparison with a 30 sec warmup and a 2 minute drive VS this 7 minute warmup? I think it would be a nice visual of how things get up to temp.
I know this has probably been asked before but have you ever thought about getting a tv show? You are very easy going and very easy to pay attention to even when you get to the more "boring" parts in some videos(aka math and science) and that's a rare gift I think. I realize youtube is big but many older people would get into you if you had a tv show.
I've been wanting to use a thermal cam to see my engine heat up for a long time now. So thank you for this!! Flir One is out of my budget at the moment but in our -30C temps i'd love to see it heat up
2:39 glad I held off on any smart-ass comments regarding ultra cold weather starts as these are already addressed. Myself I usually use -15C as my threshold for the block heater. I would love to see a video about recirculating coolant heaters. Another point I would like to add though is that you need to ensure you have a battery capable of high crank amps that isn't expired or you might not be able to start even with a block heater
I always warm up the engine until the RPM's drop - the point where the Thermostat opens and the emissions system goes out of open loop. This is winter, spring, summer, & Fall (every day). Obviously it takes much less time (1 minute) in the summer vs winter starts (5 minutes). I've done spring & fall tests where my overall mpg across 3 days is 2mpg lower if I don't let it get out of open loop before taking off after starting the car, on 40 F days. Great video; I always wondered what this would actually look like =)
I want to say congratulations to your channel. I just discovered your channel and already enjoy it. Watched a vid for 4 years ago and u have improved your ability to present the subject matter. I hope u can continue making great videos.
In my city "warming up" your car means anyone on the block can just hop in and help themselves to a free car. Some of you don't know how good you got it
to those who doubt me whenever i said... Don't drive with cold engine!! and they were yelling at me that new cars no need a warm up at all... since 4 months i got my cl7 Accord thats the first time today i drove the car without optimum temperature... great video thanks a lot!
I live in Fl. and I am a ASE Master tech and have been one for the last 20 years. I have a 08 silverado 6.0 that has remote start and I dont think there has been a day that I havent started it and let it run for at least 5 min prior to driving. The truck now has 175k and has never had any issue from extended idle.
DansGame if you watch his first video, that's what he's warning against. That high rpm is during what's called open loop, which the car dumps a crazy amount of fuel to get the motor warmed up, Again because the O2 sensors aren't warmed up yet. That fuel causes an excess buildup of carbon and will age the motor faster. It's best to drive it during this time.
DansGame no it's not! open loop is programmed to that way so that the engine will run smooth on a cold start, the reason it "dumps" fuel(which the extra fuel amount is negligible) is because when the engine is cold it is harder to ignite the fuel mixture. the engine will remain in open loop until the vehicle starts to warm up regardless of whether or not your driving it, but driving during this time only adds more fuel, rpms, and load no matter how light you drive it.
Interesting. The thing is that I've been told not to by a few people. They are what everyone would call them experienced drivers, they drive buses for a living. Main point was to let the engine parts warm up, leading to less friction. While also making a bit more of that carbon buildup. Is 1 minute really enough? Anyway, thanks, will look into it.
Brandon Cunningham The idea is to reduce the total time it is running in this condition. Driving the car heats it much faster than idling, so the engine spends less time with the warm-up mapping.
I drive commercial trucks for a living and I like to warm them up for between 5-10 mins but I also have to build air. one minute in a regular vehicle is fine, my personal vehicle I like to wait until the rpms kick down to idle. about 2-5 mins.
Wow thanks! I have a Subaru Forester 2014 with FB20 engine NA as well. Here in the Philippines its so hot because of our tropical climate.. Anyways thru your video I've finally confirmed that AC temp must be on lowest because of the heat core. Makes me save gas and compressor is opening less intermittently.. Also learned that no need to wait until blue light turns off on the gauge.. Thanks
Haha.... sá parada mesmo. Aqui no rio, você liga o carro, vai na padaria e volta e o eletro ventilador já fica funcionando na máxima kkkk. Aqui você tem que se preocupar em não derreter o motor de tanto calor. Não sei como esses caras aguentam tanto frio. Nego tá falando que -6 graus célsius e tranquilo pra eles rsrs.
Awesome video. The Bavarian I drive needs at least 3 min at -20 to -40C, and low RPM driving initially. Even if trying to power it, the car is sluggish. Am running 0W-40 and noticed its remarkable at low temperature. At -40 people forget the windchill, it is -50 or colder on the highway. So those 5 min are critical. Had cold days in which even 20-30 min driving the engine oil never went up to 70C and felt sluggish until warmed up!!! Its oil operating temp is 90-120. Either case, warming up is more than a choice, it is a smart choice.
Really cool video! It might also be interesting to note that warming up the engine only warms the engine. All the other drive components, like transmission, differential(s), CV joints are still cold and have highly viscous lubricants.
This is why I love your channel. Who else gives us this to type of content? Your videos are like a book of random facts that you don't think you need to know until you learn it. Keep up the great work!
It would be very nice to see if there's a way to measure the temps with the hood closed, as obviously this would make a huge difference as far as how side components, like the battery, warm up.
For the advice to start driving almost immediately because in your previous video you said that the engine warms up more quickly and therefore there is less time/chance that gasoline condensates on the cylinder walls (removing the oil film) there is one thing I dont agree on: all modern engines are lambda controlled. But in the first minute the ecu runs in open loop. That means it has a fixed mapping until the lambda sensors are warm enough. 'When the lambda sensors are warm enough they can adjust the mixture according to the composition of the exhaust gasses (and they will lean out the engine). But until that, the engine runs on a preset mapping which is rich, especially when its cold. I think its wise not to drive as long as the ecu runs in open loop on that rich mapping (so the first 60 seconds). As long as the throttle bodies are closed, there is less air in the engine (lower pressure), so also less fuel and fuel evaporates better in low pressure, so less chance of condensation of fuel on the cylinder walls, and less chance of damage due to lower rpm/load. So my advice is when the engine is cold (below 0C) let the engine idle for at least 1 minute to get the ecu/lambda sensors running in closed loop so that mixture is adjusted to the need of the engine.
Thank you for posting this video, the video you previously posting of warming up your car properly. I been warming up my car for 5-7 mins for years and now I understand I was doing it wrong this whole time.
Now that was just 7 minutes of idling. Driving the car (light on the throttle) would have warmed the engine much more quickly, especially with the hood down to trap heat. Great demonstration, as always. Love the channel.
I work in northern Canada, it gets down to -45 at times. So I always let the car warm up a bit before I drive. I feel that when all that metal is that cold, the tight tolerances are no more. The metal shrinks enough to have more play than before, allowing components to have a bit of play or slop. I feel that revving that engine and putting it under load while everything is sloppy and in some cases tight, would accelerate wear. Allowing it some time to rev at a lower rpm with no loads would rid of that slop in a safer manner. I'd like input on this. Specially when you have different metals mixed together in which all expand and shrink at different rates. I could be wrong, maybe in most cases the slop is managed by the more viscous oil due to the temperature. Being thicker because it's cold means itll stay in those larger gaps and cushion/lubricate as it typically does.
Oh that classic boxer startup sound. Takes forever to turn over, then the idle is high. Especially in the cold. Then it stays there for another 30 seconds.
Scott Verge I know, but from my experience, boxer engines tend to idle higher when warming up for a longer duration of time compared to other cars that I have had (Toyota's, Honda's, BMWs, Volkswagens, Ford's).
nicktune1219 I've heard that you get heat earlier in the car. i only have a 97 accord to compare to and that took ten minutes of driving to get watm air. Of course, the honda didn't hard shift in the first and second gear like the subaru. I guess the mechanics might be different but both are 4 speeds.
This has always been a debate of opinions. Always warm up my 2008 Silverado since brand new and now has 248,000 on the block and transmission. Winter time always gets a 15 minute warm up. Recently compression tested at a Chevy Dealership and has almost factory compression. Not hurting the block or internals and could care less about fuel usage doing it.
Point #4: No. Don't. I've lived here for a year now and it's miserable. I'd suggest Texas or Georgia or North Carolina or Tennessee. Really anywhere but Florida.
Block heater is huge in very cold (say sub 0F temps). I use mine often here in the frozen tundra. Starting is so much easier with it preheated for a couple of hours (2 to 3hours).
It's the case of getting used to the temperatures... I use to go out in a short sleeve when it's not lower than 5C. Up to -10C I'm ok with a jumper. Last week I was warming up the engine with a heat gun :). During the night it was -25 or maybe even lower. God bless heated seats in the Forester!
Good video man! I usually let my car idle for about 10-15 mins while I get ready, but I also have a built engine & Pittsburgh is hilly, so there is significant load & high rpms on the engine as soon as I drive anywhere. If it's going to be really cold, then I usually plug in the block heater to speed things up.
VIDEO IDEA: Cold Engine Wear In Freezing Temperatures comparing Oilpan Heater vs No heater vs Block Heater and doing Oil Annalysis' to see which resulted in the most wear.
letting your car run to warm it up is actually illegal in Germany- as is driving around without a purpose- allthough I don't know of anyone getting an actual ticket (it would be 10€) for it- I got in trouble several times with my neighbours when I started the engine and scraped the ice of the window afterwards... all these laws are justified by saving the environment (alone in your driveway while the industrie ship prawns to the other side of the world to let them peel there for 4 cents less..)
the law speaks of "unnecessary exhaust gas pollution" does not matter what vehicle it is- but as I said it is not a very strictly enforced law and it only would cost you 10€
Excellent information man! This has always been a concern of mine because I'm a volunteer firefighter and I never get the opportunity to let my car warm up when I get a fire call.
InsideOfMyOwnMind that depends on what kind of battery you are using as well as its condition and level of charge. There is no "set" level, it's all about circumstances.
Unless it's a battery from Biltema ( store in norway ) wich sell cheap rebranded batteries they should hold to temperatures lower than your oil will. I've had 3 100ah biltema batteries that all died on me over a total of two years. The last one is still half good tho, it'll start down to -10 but any colder and it'll need help from my battery booster. I even tried having the charger keep the battery toppet up, but the battery is just so poorly made that it won't react chemically at lower temperatures. Don't do as me, buy a propper battery that costs alot and replace it with a cheap one when selling the car so you keep it.
Depends on how much charge is on it. If it’s 100% charged it’s -67c or -89F. If it’s 50% charged it’s only -23c or -9F. This is based on the charge level of the worst cell in the battery.
That depends on the charge of the battery. A full charged battery is basically filled with sulfuric acid, which as a really low freezing point. However due to the chemical reaction inside the battery, as it loses charge that acid converts to water. So a dead battery will freeze at 32f. You see it all the time, that is why most people have battery problems in the cold. As the batter gets older, that constant effect of acid, to water, then back to acid, starts to lose its effectiveness. At some point the water concentration inside the battery is high enough, that it freezes. Frozen water expands, and shatters the plates inside the battery. With out plates, the chemical reaction not longer happens, and you have a battery that will not start your car.
Super cool video, but am I the only one that thinks 1800 RPM is pretty high? Lol. I've been a technician for 15 years, and not sure i've ever seen any vehicle idle that high from cold!
Certainly not not normal. Ive seen a handful myself that idled around 2k in gear...its like launch control when you let off lol. Mainly older camrys and a fiat
your coolant temperature will rise way slower if you turn your heater core fan wide open as well. In my 2008 civic on a really cold day will actually drop from operating temperature at idle with the fan on full tilt. I usually keep the fan on low while driving to get my engine to operating temperature faster on really cold days.
Whoever recommends 'just starting it up for 30 seconds then driving' doesn't actually live anywhere that's cold. Try that in --30C, then come back and recommend 30 seconds. Literally not even about being warm then, I know my car warms up fast in ~3-4 minutes of driving. I just can't see out the windows due to my breath instantly freezing on the windows.
i have no choice. my car is a hybrid and it only starts when i drive off . Luckily it uses 0W20 oil. To get any ICE up to temp quickly, just start and wait a few seconds for the oilpressure to rise, then gently start driving. Because the engine is asked to deliver actual work (i.e. moving the car) it will warm up the fastest. Idling is actually not good at all, it means the engine runs on very rich cold start mixture for longer. It wears out the bores and piston rings faster. in an efficient modern commonrail Diesel engine it is even more important to start driving as soon as oil starts circulating. Some of those engines are so efficient that they do not produce enough heat to warm them up quickly while idling, depending on ambient temperature it can take up to 10km(!) of driving in cold weather to actually get any decent heat out of the heater...
at -40c your interior isnt going to warm up until you start driving, the engine at idle literally after 20 minutes still isnts warm enough to produce heat in the cabin but its good to drive though.
One of the best things in owning a water cooled turbo car (i own a Focus ST) is that it heats the water up really quickly, i assume because its flowing through the turbo (exhaust). Car heats up inside in just a few minutes!
newer generation cars automatically warms up a cold engine by increasing idle rpm. once it detects its warm enough, it will naturally drop to its normal idle.
A lot of things. With thicker oil it may be more beneficial to run higher idle temps to keep oil pressure higher. Also on some newer cars they use higher rpm along with higher fuel ratios and even different injection profiles on cars with DI in order to heat up the catalyst faster and get emissions down. you don't have to wait for the rpms to die down before driving. just wait for 30s to a min and then drive the car lightly as what the video says.
to put it simply, the engine is trying to get some heat built up when it's not under load and when the engine is warm there's no need to keep such high RPMs so it drop's down to a more economic RPM.
there is more drag in a cold motor and fuel condenses quicker. between the two it causes the motor to need more rpm for smooth idle. This is the reason modern passenger motor run at such high temps over older motors, to gain effiecency.
You forgot to mention that diesel trucks are totally different, 5-10 min warning up in the winter. Diesels run best when they are warm. Love the thermal imaging by the way :)
For those of you wondering why the engine rpms dropped, once the engine was warm. It is because fuel doesn't actually burn, it is the atoms that do. As such in order to get a proper burn, the car atomizes the fuel, using fuel injectors and high pressure. Problem is cold fuel is harder to atomize. When the engine warms up the fuel is no longer cold when it reaches the injectors, because it gets heat off the engine. But when the engine is cold, there is no heat to warm fuel, so the fuel can not be properly atomized. To compensate for this the car injects more fuel. More fuel, means higher rpms. Also the various sensors the control module uses to determine the air fuel mixture, then correct it, must be warm to be accurate. When the car first starts, these sensors are not warm, so they are not accurate. As such the car runs in what is called open loop, or it ignores most of the sensors, and runs off predetermined values. Those values typically mean that the engine gets more fuel than necessary.
is it possible to do this test while you drive your car? start it up and wait 30 seconds then drive off, so we can get a comparison. maybe you can put the vehicle in a dyno
He should be able to do that, since the thermal camera shows tempratures. While driving the car, he could read of the gauge that shows engine temprature.
It's important to notice that even as the coolant is getting hotter, oil temp takes it's time and since driving the engine hard safely depends on optimal oil temp, the coolant temp gauge is not a green light to floor it. I'd love to see these same warm up tests done on European turbo charged diesel engines, such as the 2.0tdi's, hdi's ect. ..
Incolder carburetor cars this is needed but in modern cars the computer just dumps extra fuel in to get the car to run normal but I still wait at least 2 minutes for my oil to circulate I can hear the engine knock when it's cold
That's a lot better than just driving away. Really, the most important thing is to just give the oil a chance to circulate, which actually only takes a few seconds, or your engine wouldn't last long. However its still very thick and gooey, so drive as gently as you can, don't go over 2,000rpm, no full throttle, for a few minutes. It's not actually that much different from just letting it sit. Letting it sit for 10mins until it's totally warm is not necessary...but if you want a working heater you'd better!
I live very close to the highway on ramp....and in deep winters I let my engine idle for a couple of minutes before I go onto the highway.I use a 5W60 oil and I have driven this car 410.000 miles so far...nothing more than regular maintainance- so I must do something right.....very good video...
Im glad i live in a tropical country! Where its virtually hot the whole year round We dont have that kind of issues! Our issue is our A/C to be in tip top shape always
For an HD (thermal) version of this video, here's the link: th-cam.com/video/n_CQzBc6GbM/w-d-xo.html
where do you get you IR camera please?
the metal kind
its mint
Engineering Explained MY MECHANIC ONCE TOLD ME ENGINE MOUNTS CAN GO BAD FOR DRIVING ON S COLD ENGINE. TURBULANCE MAYBE? ANY SCIENCE BEHIND THAT? HE SAID JUST WARM IT UP A TAB BIT USUALLY 15S
1) my ambient temperature never drops below 25°C
Do I still need to warm it up?
2) when don't use my vehicle for more than a week, it doesn't stay on unless I use atleast half throttle (it's carbeurated), is it okay to warm it by racing?
I usually just redline it as soon as i turn it on
Broseff G 😂
Are you the lady who lives across the street from me? WTF, that ain't no air raid siren, its a Honda.
me 2..thank god it even has turbo so its even faster heating ..and off course its company car ..so i can meassure -20 celsius to 90 celsius times off coolant
how long until you remember to get out of neutral?
Broseff G a guy that lived do the street from me used to do that for real. He went through vehicles like socks. He eventually OD'd on meth.
American using metric units, you're the real MVP :D
Whats wrong with metric??
@@lfacelessbucklel1291 Nothing, but most americans can´t handle it.
@@cesarg4328 it's basically required for science.
Celsius is no more useful for day to day use than fahrenheit. It also isn't always useful in science where you often need an absolute scale. Why would Americans switch when we don't care if the rest of the world likes it or not?
@@GuyFromJupiter because metric is far superior to American measurements. Celsius for example is based on a scalr to fit important temperature gradients like water freezing at 0 C and boiling at 100 C
In Russia they just light a fire under the engine
I approve this message.
In soviet russia fire lights you.
Roddy Yang In russia the fire lights an engine under you!
In the engine a Russia starts in the fire
True, my dad used a compact butane stove for that
A few things that you might not have thought about when operating in extremely low temperatures. While it is true that a 0w engine oil will flow reasonable well and warm up pretty quickly. Other fluids like the transmission fluid and power steering fluid on hydraulic steering systems will take a much longer time to warm up or never warm up in extreme cold situations. It is also more critical that you reduce the stress on these systems when you start driving. Grease and Fluids in the differentials, CV joints, ball joints, etc. can be very thick at -40C and not only are they less effective at lubricating but increase the load. It should also be noted that the engine oil should be whenever possible completely warmed up during the drive. Moisture in the crankcase gasses quickly condenses when the engine is turned off and will make its way into the oil. If the water does not get boiled out of the oil and pushed out of the crankcase ventilation system it can freeze components of the crankcase ventilation system causing further problems, reduce the effectiveness of the oil, cause corrosion inside the engine, and over time sludge build up. If there is an accumulation of white milky fluid under your oil cap then the engine is not getting hot enough. Avoid short trips and extended periods of idling.
How do I know the engine is fully warmed up I love in TX the temp is 60s 70s right now
You also have to think about the other fluids in the car. Like power steering, and transmission. I've noticed a big difference in how the car shifts and how easy it is to turn from when the car is still cold to warmed up.
Many vehicles I've had particularly the brakes didn't get live for a short while and required a ton of pressure. Below -15 or F.🤠
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Engineering Explained lol
i was expecting a thermal vison pic of your cat but there was still a cat so thats alright
Engineering Explained I drive a diesel landcruiser in -35 with the block heater cause I love in Canada with a block heater is it alright if let it warm up for 5-10 minutes
Giving the fans a way to keep up with your activities, and creating a diversion to distract the haters. Well played.
I enjoyed both the video and the pictures of your cat, thanks!
You seem to be forgetting that oil flow, fuel atomization, and comfort aren't the only reasons to warm your engine up. Consider metallic expansion. Aluminum pistons are going to warm up a lot faster than the cast iron or steel cylinder liner and the engine block full of coolant. It's better for the engine to warm up more slowly so the pistons and engine block expand at a more similar rate. When you start and just drive off, the piston expands much more quickly than the cylinder causing it to fit more tightly, and in turn creating more wear and in some engines even causing permanent damage. Just ask anyone who drove a V6 GM car in the mid to late 1990s who didn't warm them up before driving. They had a lot of piston failures due to this metallic expansion. It's still better to allow your engine to idle for 5-10 minutes before driving off in cold weather. Oil change interval should also be shortened a bit in this time due to the extra contamination.
Krankie V I agree completely.
Rhino Willy's Exactly. Ever seen the bore of an engine that wasn't ever allowed to warm properly? Noticeably accelerated wear and piston scuffing. Nice Jeep, btw!
I wait 10 mins too and my cars have been good to me, agree 100%
The standing advice is, if you drive the vehicle immediately or after a short warmup, it should be driven moderately. That means getting up to street speed slowly. But if where you live you have to immediately enter the stream of traffic on a highway or boulevard you might not be able to do that. Engines do warm up more quickly if the vehicle is moving though.
A lot of people don't have ten minutes in the morning. You must be either self-employed or retired.
EVERYONE has ten minutes. You're spouting nonsense. @@anonymike8280
Not warming up your engine is like waking up and running a 200 meter sprint
@Based God he meant like run as soon as you get up no warm up no brush teeth whatsoever
@Based God you will get a heart attack
@@the_batmobile0.4 nahh
Based God you must sleep outside?
@Based God dude you run in your pajamas? thats boss
try that test in Winnipeg, Canada when it's -45 degrees Celsius lol
Why not just try this in space at near absolute zero temperatures while you're at it
Deek you the boss
Deek I bet if I didn't say this someone would say "but there's no air in space so it can't start"
Jeff I'm right below you in Grafton North Dakota! it's best for block heaters and letting car warm up for sure. by the time it takes you to get all the snow of your car, it's usually ready to go.
Jeff I'm right below you in Grafton North Dakota! it's best for block heaters and letting car warm up for sure. by the time it takes you to get all the snow of your car, it's usually ready to go.
Had to enable notifications, this channel rocks!
Bullion Forever thank you! It's people like you that keep this channel moving upwards, appreciate it!
Engineering Explained thanks to you now I know the basic facts about every car component. Btw, I'm studying management engineering, so I thought it was important to know these things
Cool, I learn a lot from you as a mech engineer student!
We have been to -20F here in the Twin Cities, MN this year. Unusually warm lately with temps near or above 30F. Usually January is more like 0F to -20F all month.
And Florida sucks. I can think of many other warm states I would move to WELL before Florida.
Chad Bremer you don't live far from me! lol people don't understand cold until they've suffered winters like us. last week the wind chill was factored to be below 53f!
even without the wind it was -30!
but these videos are ALWAYS directed at people who idle for several minutes in 30 degree weather.
Chad Bremer it was like Tuesday before last that here in grand forks was 50 below
metalhead2508 negative temps. Experienced both. -30 is WAY colder than 20s at 80% humidity.
metalhead2508 I have worked the oil patch in South Texas heat and North Dakota arctic. lol. I was living in MN for both. just flew back and forth. I can take the heat and the cold now. I am a gluten for punishment I guess.
Chad Bremer Nice to see another Minnesotan on his Channel. But I agree with you this year weather in MN is bipolar. I just had a remote starter installed into my Car. Since the weather is nicer there's no point of starting my car anymore.
I live in Moscow, so sometimes the temperature gets really low, below -40C. I'm driving 2012 Volvo XC90 and never actually had any problems with starting up in the cold. Just wait until revs calm down to ~800RPM and you are good to go. Normally it takes about 40-60 seconds, depending on how cold it is and how far ago the previous launch was.
In cold winter weather I warm up the truck for about five minutes, to get the fluids somewhat warm and the windows de-iced/defogged. In very cold weather (from minus 20 down to minus 40C) I use the block heater for a few hours, then run the engine for a good ten minutes. It takes that long to de-ice/defog anyways. My wife and I are still driving twenty and twenty-five year old vehicles, with no end in sight, so obviously we're doing something right. We care about our vehicles, so we have always ignored the 'start and drive' advice so fashionable right now.
so you're standing in -6 degrees C without gloves and stuff?
If you live somewhere cold, -6 isn't that cold at all.
-6*C is nothing lol
what if u live in a place where it gets as hot as 53 degrees c in the summer , is -6 too cold ?
What stuff do you need? At -6 C coat and winter boots are sufficient.
-6c is not very cold, you dont need gloves for that.
Realize that as long as the high temperature viscosity number is the same then you can have different low temperature numbers. A 5W oil is always preferred over a 10W oil since it will make the engine run lighter even at moderately low temperatures which lowers your fuel consumption. The wider viscosity range may be a bit more expensive though, but it evens out on the fuel cost account, especially in Europe.
Can you do a 'Things You Should Never Do in a Car in Winter'? There are so many misconceptions.
like dropping all your coolant so your car doesn't freeze when you are driving
S E X !!
unfortunately it's forbidden to run your engine just to warm up your car in Germany
Tobias Henreich wtf?
Tobias Henreich in America, some states/cities have this law also.
Gregg Congleton no it is to start a car and leave it unattended. Don't know about the crazy germans ;)
How strict is the law on this?
Are you allowed to run your car for 60 seconds before you start driving?
What's the penalty for breaching this law?
Jay R the fine is about 10 Euro give or take. I have never seen this law being applied in real life though. But in theory you have to start up your car with no option of letting the engine warm up for a few minutes or cleaning the car from ice while running
3:17 you can see the top radiator hose suddenly warm up when the thermostat opens
But why does the thermostat opens at a coolant temperature of 40°C? It slows down the heating process. My Golf MK3 thermostate opens at only ~70°C.
Because hot spots can cause cylinder warping. Consequence of not circulating the water.
I can't see it. I mean I see the hose turning red, but the video is sped up, so it is not so obvious.
the big hose on the very left of the screen its in an N shape
thanks for using units that people outside the us understand.
i just wait til the rpm drop below 1k then drive casual
r3fr33z39780 I just floor it as soon as I turn it on, vtec yo
with vtec you don't have to warm your engine?
Needfor I mean it stands for very tall engine cooling so it loves cold engines
vtec mean quick heating , you hold the engine in the warming zone ( redline ) and it will take less than a minute ! Hope this help
I can confirm this.
the engine warmed up over time. amazing
"Move to Florida..."
No. No, don't move to Florida, we're full, too many New Yorkers.
Go to Arizona, better Job opportunities there.
There are too many people from Florida in ny
Kyle Reese yeah, especially here in Palm Beach...
Yeah definitely don't move to Florida. We have way too many New Yorkers/New Jersey idiots and theyre obnoxious. Please move somewhere else.
I am born and raised in Florida and I can tell you there's too many people here .
@@Conrailfan2596
Oh god no. The only New Yorkers who move to Florida are from trashville Long Island(which are not even New Yorkers).
There are only two alpha++ global cities in the wolrd and one is NYC. Now why would I leave that to go see some alligators and old people?
because that's all you got, swamps and old people.
I live in Edmonton.....I agree with you on this vid, and thought I'd add, a block heater heats your rad fluid, but there is no point in leaving it going all night, it will only heat to a point in half-hour to an hour...any more and you're just wasting energy.
your battery won't freeze if it's fully charged, but if your battery is bulging, it's done.
That was a really intriguing video that I enjoyed! One must also remember that even though the coolant temperature is up to par, your engine oil does not follow suit nearly as quickly. For example, I've driven the 2003 BMW M3 and 09 M5 on numerous occasions. Within the first 5 or so minutes, the coolant temperature is up to temperature. However, the oil is still barely reaching 100F. It can take up to 10-15 minutes before the oil is property up to temperature and even longer still.
I wish my new car had an oil temperature sensor. :)
Respect for adding C and F !
You need to change your motor mounts. Your engine is swaying hard 3:20
It's a brand new car.....
Look at the right side of the frame, you can see the thermal camera swaying, not the engine.
LifeAsSteve with very bad motor mounts
Not the mounts, it's his camera lol
tough crowd
I have always appreciated the fact how he does his best to break everything down into layman's terms! It's why i subbed to him couple year's back, glad he's still the same :)
This is awesome! I've been wanting to do that experiment for a couple of years now!
How about a comparison with a 30 sec warmup and a 2 minute drive VS this 7 minute warmup? I think it would be a nice visual of how things get up to temp.
I know this has probably been asked before but have you ever thought about getting a tv show? You are very easy going and very easy to pay attention to even when you get to the more "boring" parts in some videos(aka math and science) and that's a rare gift I think. I realize youtube is big but many older people would get into you if you had a tv show.
Love this channel! I always thought I was prolonging the life of my engine by idling for 5 minutes or more in the winter. Guess I was wrong!
I've been wanting to use a thermal cam to see my engine heat up for a long time now. So thank you for this!! Flir One is out of my budget at the moment but in our -30C temps i'd love to see it heat up
Nice video and I love the Thermo camera!
2:39 glad I held off on any smart-ass comments regarding ultra cold weather starts as these are already addressed.
Myself I usually use -15C as my threshold for the block heater. I would love to see a video about recirculating coolant heaters.
Another point I would like to add though is that you need to ensure you have a battery capable of high crank amps that isn't expired or you might not be able to start even with a block heater
pretty cool to see it heat up
What did he do?
I always warm up the engine until the RPM's drop - the point where the Thermostat opens and the emissions system goes out of open loop. This is winter, spring, summer, & Fall (every day). Obviously it takes much less time (1 minute) in the summer vs winter starts (5 minutes).
I've done spring & fall tests where my overall mpg across 3 days is 2mpg lower if I don't let it get out of open loop before taking off after starting the car, on 40 F days. Great video; I always wondered what this would actually look like =)
Cool video! I need to buy a Thermal Camera. They have MANY uses!
I want to say congratulations to your channel. I just discovered your channel and already enjoy it. Watched a vid for 4 years ago and u have improved your ability to present the subject matter. I hope u can continue making great videos.
Thanks, and welcome! :)
In my city "warming up" your car means anyone on the block can just hop in and help themselves to a free car. Some of you don't know how good you got it
to those who doubt me whenever i said... Don't drive with cold engine!! and they were yelling at me that new cars no need a warm up at all... since 4 months i got my cl7 Accord thats the first time today i drove the car without optimum temperature... great video thanks a lot!
why is this so satisfying to watch
I love how your fingertips go from warm to cold if you look close enough. Thanks for the insightful video.
4. "Move to Florida"
Convincing
+1 for moving to Florida! It was in the upper 70's here yesterday!
I live in an area with -40 temps and I always warm my car up for several minutes before taking off
:)
I live in Fl. and I am a ASE Master tech and have been one for the last 20 years. I have a 08 silverado 6.0 that has remote start and I dont think there has been a day that I havent started it and let it run for at least 5 min prior to driving. The truck now has 175k and has never had any issue from extended idle.
I drive 2007 1.6l. lancer. I wait till rpm drop from 1200 to 900-800 then drive it.
DansGame if you watch his first video, that's what he's warning against. That high rpm is during what's called open loop, which the car dumps a crazy amount of fuel to get the motor warmed up, Again because the O2 sensors aren't warmed up yet. That fuel causes an excess buildup of carbon and will age the motor faster. It's best to drive it during this time.
DansGame no it's not! open loop is programmed to that way so that the engine will run smooth on a cold start, the reason it "dumps" fuel(which the extra fuel amount is negligible) is because when the engine is cold it is harder to ignite the fuel mixture. the engine will remain in open loop until the vehicle starts to warm up regardless of whether or not your driving it, but driving during this time only adds more fuel, rpms, and load no matter how light you drive it.
Interesting. The thing is that I've been told not to by a few people. They are what everyone would call them experienced drivers, they drive buses for a living. Main point was to let the engine parts warm up, leading to less friction. While also making a bit more of that carbon buildup. Is 1 minute really enough?
Anyway, thanks, will look into it.
Brandon Cunningham The idea is to reduce the total time it is running in this condition. Driving the car heats it much faster than idling, so the engine spends less time with the warm-up mapping.
I drive commercial trucks for a living and I like to warm them up for between 5-10 mins but I also have to build air. one minute in a regular vehicle is fine, my personal vehicle I like to wait until the rpms kick down to idle. about 2-5 mins.
Wow thanks! I have a Subaru Forester 2014 with FB20 engine NA as well. Here in the Philippines its so hot because of our tropical climate.. Anyways thru your video I've finally confirmed that AC temp must be on lowest because of the heat core. Makes me save gas and compressor is opening less intermittently.. Also learned that no need to wait until blue light turns off on the gauge.. Thanks
Come to Brazil! Here in Rio its about 30ºC most of the year. But last month it was a comfortable 46ºC.
Haha.... sá parada mesmo. Aqui no rio, você liga o carro, vai na padaria e volta e o eletro ventilador já fica funcionando na máxima kkkk. Aqui você tem que se preocupar em não derreter o motor de tanto calor. Não sei como esses caras aguentam tanto frio. Nego tá falando que -6 graus célsius e tranquilo pra eles rsrs.
No thanks, I don't have a death wish.
Leonardo Celente 0°c is comfortable. 46°c is hell.
Having no winter means you have much bigger problems with bugs.
It's why the United States is further north.
poor Rio
come to Arabian desert where it's 52-57c
Awesome video. The Bavarian I drive needs at least 3 min at -20 to -40C, and low RPM driving initially. Even if trying to power it, the car is sluggish. Am running 0W-40 and noticed its remarkable at low temperature. At -40 people forget the windchill, it is -50 or colder on the highway. So those 5 min are critical. Had cold days in which even 20-30 min driving the engine oil never went up to 70C and felt sluggish until warmed up!!! Its oil operating temp is 90-120. Either case, warming up is more than a choice, it is a smart choice.
Really cool video! It might also be interesting to note that warming up the engine only warms the engine. All the other drive components, like transmission, differential(s), CV joints are still cold and have highly viscous lubricants.
This is why I love your channel. Who else gives us this to type of content? Your videos are like a book of random facts that you don't think you need to know until you learn it. Keep up the great work!
It would be very nice to see if there's a way to measure the temps with the hood closed, as obviously this would make a huge difference as far as how side components, like the battery, warm up.
For the advice to start driving almost immediately because in your previous video you said that the engine warms up more quickly and therefore there is less time/chance that gasoline condensates on the cylinder walls (removing the oil film) there is one thing I dont agree on: all modern engines are lambda controlled. But in the first minute the ecu runs in open loop. That means it has a fixed mapping until the lambda sensors are warm enough.
'When the lambda sensors are warm enough they can adjust the mixture according to the composition of the exhaust gasses (and they will lean out the engine). But until that, the engine runs on a preset mapping which is rich, especially when its cold.
I think its wise not to drive as long as the ecu runs in open loop on that rich mapping (so the first 60 seconds). As long as the throttle bodies are closed, there is less air in the engine (lower pressure), so also less fuel and fuel evaporates better in low pressure, so less chance of condensation of fuel on the cylinder walls, and less chance of damage due to lower rpm/load.
So my advice is when the engine is cold (below 0C) let the engine idle for at least 1 minute to get the ecu/lambda sensors running in closed loop so that mixture is adjusted to the need of the engine.
If you want your car to warm up faster, just floor it and hold it at redline or as high as the rev limiter will let you go! You're welcome :)
Nick Harrison only of you'll buy me new cars continuously ;)
OMG IT WORKED THANKS!
instructions not clear. Dick stuck in turbocharger
*damages valvetrain*
Enjoy only having like 10% of the power you used to before over revving it for like 2 mins ;)
Thank you for posting this video, the video you previously posting of warming up your car properly. I been warming up my car for 5-7 mins for years and now I understand I was doing it wrong this whole time.
Now that was just 7 minutes of idling. Driving the car (light on the throttle) would have warmed the engine much more quickly, especially with the hood down to trap heat.
Great demonstration, as always. Love the channel.
I use an engine block heater for my truck (diesel) and it makes a huge difference all the way around when it's
You live where it gets down to -40°C?
0W synthetic, block heater, save the face muscles from freezing- move to Florida!
I work in northern Canada, it gets down to -45 at times. So I always let the car warm up a bit before I drive. I feel that when all that metal is that cold, the tight tolerances are no more. The metal shrinks enough to have more play than before, allowing components to have a bit of play or slop. I feel that revving that engine and putting it under load while everything is sloppy and in some cases tight, would accelerate wear. Allowing it some time to rev at a lower rpm with no loads would rid of that slop in a safer manner.
I'd like input on this. Specially when you have different metals mixed together in which all expand and shrink at different rates. I could be wrong, maybe in most cases the slop is managed by the more viscous oil due to the temperature. Being thicker because it's cold means itll stay in those larger gaps and cushion/lubricate as it typically does.
"And, point number 4, move to Florida" Made my monday :)
one of the best EEs to date, simple and informative
Oh that classic boxer startup sound. Takes forever to turn over, then the idle is high. Especially in the cold. Then it stays there for another 30 seconds.
nicktune1219
Boxers aren't the only engine that sits at high revs on a cold start.
Scott Verge I know, but from my experience, boxer engines tend to idle higher when warming up for a longer duration of time compared to other cars that I have had (Toyota's, Honda's, BMWs, Volkswagens, Ford's).
nicktune1219 I've heard that you get heat earlier in the car. i only have a 97 accord to compare to and that took ten minutes of driving to get watm air. Of course, the honda didn't hard shift in the first and second gear like the subaru. I guess the mechanics might be different but both are 4 speeds.
Ah ok.
I haven't owned one but all my cars have taken a little while. But I am in Canada hahaha.
sounds like a rosie odonell queef
Thank you for including the oil filter in the video so that we can see the oil as well.
Yes. Metric. Thank YOU!
This has always been a debate of opinions. Always warm up my 2008 Silverado since brand new and now has 248,000 on the block and transmission. Winter time always gets a 15 minute warm up. Recently compression tested at a Chevy Dealership and has almost factory compression. Not hurting the block or internals and could care less about fuel usage doing it.
Point #4: No. Don't. I've lived here for a year now and it's miserable. I'd suggest Texas or Georgia or North Carolina or Tennessee. Really anywhere but Florida.
RyanRants Florida has some beautiful parts, just stay away from the giant theme parks! The Keys are one of the most amazing places on the planet.
RyanRants, I've lived here all my life what's bad about it?
That's sad to hear
greece is the best!
Block heater is huge in very cold (say sub 0F temps). I use mine often here in the frozen tundra. Starting is so much easier with it preheated for a couple of hours (2 to 3hours).
this engine is cooler then my pc😂
AMD ftw.
nicktune1219 Naa not a fan! I got nvidia and Intel but under load I get 45°C and that's not that bad
It's the case of getting used to the temperatures... I use to go out in a short sleeve when it's not lower than 5C. Up to -10C I'm ok with a jumper. Last week I was warming up the engine with a heat gun :). During the night it was -25 or maybe even lower. God bless heated seats in the Forester!
Haaa lmbo #4.move to Florida !! That was funny even though I'm sure you were serious lol great video keep up the good work pal
It was a joke! :)
Engineering Explained it was a goo one thanks again buddy
its the best advice lol
Michael C. lol true and logical to move to florida
Way too hot and humid for me!
Ty for using metric system in most of your vids. Helps a lot
lol I'm still gonna let my car idle for 5+ mins
I do the same thing. I like a warm car in winter.
It's so satisfying to hear the rpm drop
5min is way too much . 1-2mins are good
Good video man! I usually let my car idle for about 10-15 mins while I get ready, but I also have a built engine & Pittsburgh is hilly, so there is significant load & high rpms on the engine as soon as I drive anywhere. If it's going to be really cold, then I usually plug in the block heater to speed things up.
VIDEO IDEA: Cold Engine Wear In Freezing Temperatures comparing Oilpan Heater vs No heater vs Block Heater and doing Oil Annalysis' to see which resulted in the most wear.
Thankyou for using celsius in your video for the instrumentation and dialogue.
letting your car run to warm it up is actually illegal in Germany- as is driving around without a purpose- allthough I don't know of anyone getting an actual ticket (it would be 10€) for it- I got in trouble several times with my neighbours when I started the engine and scraped the ice of the window afterwards... all these laws are justified by saving the environment (alone in your driveway while the industrie ship prawns to the other side of the world to let them peel there for 4 cents less..)
Oli K that sound like shitty law there, no offence
Oli K wow your neighbors ratted on you for scraping ice? That's sad, guess my uncle wasn't lying.
I guess it was designed more for delivery vans than cars.
What about trucks?
the law speaks of "unnecessary exhaust gas pollution" does not matter what vehicle it is- but as I said it is not a very strictly enforced law and it only would cost you 10€
Excellent information man! This has always been a concern of mine because I'm a volunteer firefighter and I never get the opportunity to let my car warm up when I get a fire call.
At what temp does a battery actually freeze?
InsideOfMyOwnMind that depends on what kind of battery you are using as well as its condition and level of charge. There is no "set" level, it's all about circumstances.
Unless it's a battery from Biltema ( store in norway ) wich sell cheap rebranded batteries they should hold to temperatures lower than your oil will.
I've had 3 100ah biltema batteries that all died on me over a total of two years.
The last one is still half good tho, it'll start down to -10 but any colder and it'll need help from my battery booster.
I even tried having the charger keep the battery toppet up, but the battery is just so poorly made that it won't react chemically at lower temperatures.
Don't do as me, buy a propper battery that costs alot and replace it with a cheap one when selling the car so you keep it.
Depends on how much charge is on it. If it’s 100% charged it’s -67c or -89F. If it’s 50% charged it’s only -23c or -9F. This is based on the charge level of the worst cell in the battery.
If the Sulfuric Acid is mixed with water and you have something like 65% of Acid than is freezing at -64 C (-83,2F)
That depends on the charge of the battery. A full charged battery is basically filled with sulfuric acid, which as a really low freezing point. However due to the chemical reaction inside the battery, as it loses charge that acid converts to water. So a dead battery will freeze at 32f. You see it all the time, that is why most people have battery problems in the cold. As the batter gets older, that constant effect of acid, to water, then back to acid, starts to lose its effectiveness. At some point the water concentration inside the battery is high enough, that it freezes. Frozen water expands, and shatters the plates inside the battery. With out plates, the chemical reaction not longer happens, and you have a battery that will not start your car.
man that thermography is awesome
Super cool video, but am I the only one that thinks 1800 RPM is pretty high? Lol. I've been a technician for 15 years, and not sure i've ever seen any vehicle idle that high from cold!
Dan iel boxer engine naturally idle high on a cold start up
Dan iel boxer engines naturally idle high on a cold start up
It's because it is a PZEV. The engine revs higher to warm up faster to minimize emissions.
A technician? Really? People avoid this individual at all costs!!
Certainly not not normal. Ive seen a handful myself that idled around 2k in gear...its like launch control when you let off lol. Mainly older camrys and a fiat
your coolant temperature will rise way slower if you turn your heater core fan wide open as well. In my 2008 civic on a really cold day will actually drop from operating temperature at idle with the fan on full tilt. I usually keep the fan on low while driving to get my engine to operating temperature faster on really cold days.
Whoever recommends 'just starting it up for 30 seconds then driving' doesn't actually live anywhere that's cold. Try that in --30C, then come back and recommend 30 seconds. Literally not even about being warm then, I know my car warms up fast in ~3-4 minutes of driving. I just can't see out the windows due to my breath instantly freezing on the windows.
honkydook it doesn’t even get below 30F here. Its winter but yet its still 70F outside
i have no choice. my car is a hybrid and it only starts when i drive off . Luckily it uses 0W20 oil.
To get any ICE up to temp quickly, just start and wait a few seconds for the oilpressure to rise, then gently start driving.
Because the engine is asked to deliver actual work (i.e. moving the car) it will warm up the fastest.
Idling is actually not good at all, it means the engine runs on very rich cold start mixture for longer. It wears out the bores and piston rings faster.
in an efficient modern commonrail Diesel engine it is even more important to start driving as soon as oil starts circulating. Some of those engines are so efficient that they do not produce enough heat to warm them up quickly while idling, depending on ambient temperature it can take up to 10km(!) of driving in cold weather to actually get any decent heat out of the heater...
at -40c your interior isnt going to warm up until you start driving, the engine at idle literally after 20 minutes still isnts warm enough to produce heat in the cabin but its good to drive though.
bruh turn on the heater
One of the best things in owning a water cooled turbo car (i own a Focus ST) is that it heats the water up really quickly, i assume because its flowing through the turbo (exhaust). Car heats up inside in just a few minutes!
Why does the engine RPM drop once it heats up?
newer generation cars automatically warms up a cold engine by increasing idle rpm. once it detects its warm enough, it will naturally drop to its normal idle.
same question
A lot of things. With thicker oil it may be more beneficial to run higher idle temps to keep oil pressure higher. Also on some newer cars they use higher rpm along with higher fuel ratios and even different injection profiles on cars with DI in order to heat up the catalyst faster and get emissions down.
you don't have to wait for the rpms to die down before driving. just wait for 30s to a min and then drive the car lightly as what the video says.
to put it simply, the engine is trying to get some heat built up when it's not under load and when the engine is warm there's no need to keep such high RPMs so it drop's down to a more economic RPM.
there is more drag in a cold motor and fuel condenses quicker. between the two it causes the motor to need more rpm for smooth idle. This is the reason modern passenger motor run at such high temps over older motors, to gain effiecency.
I don't get why people dislike your videos. You do an awesome job explaining and it's always on super interesting topics. I guess haters gonna hate .
Video on air cooled engines?
You forgot to mention that diesel trucks are totally different, 5-10 min warning up in the winter. Diesels run best when they are warm. Love the thermal imaging by the way :)
just a question: How do you get the RPM and temp in the bottom left of the screen? through an OBDII recorder or something?
Byonnem yes. OBD 2, he said that in the video.
For those of you wondering why the engine rpms dropped, once the engine was warm. It is because fuel doesn't actually burn, it is the atoms that do. As such in order to get a proper burn, the car atomizes the fuel, using fuel injectors and high pressure. Problem is cold fuel is harder to atomize. When the engine warms up the fuel is no longer cold when it reaches the injectors, because it gets heat off the engine. But when the engine is cold, there is no heat to warm fuel, so the fuel can not be properly atomized. To compensate for this the car injects more fuel. More fuel, means higher rpms. Also the various sensors the control module uses to determine the air fuel mixture, then correct it, must be warm to be accurate. When the car first starts, these sensors are not warm, so they are not accurate. As such the car runs in what is called open loop, or it ignores most of the sensors, and runs off predetermined values. Those values typically mean that the engine gets more fuel than necessary.
is it possible to do this test while you drive your car? start it up and wait 30 seconds then drive off, so we can get a comparison. maybe you can put the vehicle in a dyno
He should be able to do that, since the thermal camera shows tempratures. While driving the car, he could read of the gauge that shows engine temprature.
Jason, as an engineering student myself, you've got some great videos. I can't wait to watch more of your stuff.
you can do a comparision video, letting the car warm up just 10 seconds and start driving it.. then compare how much is the difference in time..
it would reach full operating temperature over that period of time
It's important to notice that even as the coolant is getting hotter, oil temp takes it's time and since driving the engine hard safely depends on optimal oil temp, the coolant temp gauge is not a green light to floor it.
I'd love to see these same warm up tests done on European turbo charged diesel engines, such as the 2.0tdi's, hdi's ect. ..
before driving I always wait 30 after engine start before setting off
Incolder carburetor cars this is needed but in modern cars the computer just dumps extra fuel in to get the car to run normal but I still wait at least 2 minutes for my oil to circulate I can hear the engine knock when it's cold
That's a lot better than just driving away. Really, the most important thing is to just give the oil a chance to circulate, which actually only takes a few seconds, or your engine wouldn't last long. However its still very thick and gooey, so drive as gently as you can, don't go over 2,000rpm, no full throttle, for a few minutes. It's not actually that much different from just letting it sit. Letting it sit for 10mins until it's totally warm is not necessary...but if you want a working heater you'd better!
30 what?
@@erikk77 30 years.
I live very close to the highway on ramp....and in deep winters I let my engine idle for a couple of minutes before I go onto the highway.I use a 5W60 oil and I have driven this car 410.000 miles so far...nothing more than regular maintainance- so I must do something right.....very good video...
Ist der Motor kalt, gib ihm 6 1/2
YI666IY jawohl
YI666IY wankel fritz snitzel Schwartz
ist er nicht zufrieden gib ihm 7
Ist der Motor warm, kannst ihn am Begrenzer fahrn
Stand er übernacht, gib' ihm 8
Im glad i live in a tropical country! Where its virtually hot the whole year round We dont have that kind of issues! Our issue is our A/C to be in tip top shape always