ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 เม.ย. 2022
- Hello youtube!
heres a vid of me changing out the front CV axle in my 100 series land cruiser, enjoy!
/ aka_chowcares
Tools and Parts:
New CV Axle 2007-1998 Lexus LX470, Toyota Land Cruiser, 4WD
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Camera equipment used in this video:
DJI Pocket 2: amzn.to/2KZH5XG
GoPro HERO9 Black: amzn.to/3rS8sDI
DJI Mavic Air 2 Drone Fly More Combo: amzn.to/3hJt1h6
Rode VideoMicro Compact Microphone: amzn.to/38avbmD
GoPro Suction Cup Mount: amzn.to/3ndwLbF - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Loved it. It looks like you did each side in about 10 minutes!
Bro this took me and my boys from 1pm to 1130 at night . Holy shit so many rusted parts and autozone runs . 😂
2 hours for me so far and I still can't separate the ball joint like in the video he just hammered it out lol. I just ordered a ball joint separator and I'll go from there.
@seahawksforever9504 I used my bottle jack and placed it in between the rotor and the upper arm then hammered it with a 5lb hammer it came undone
@@seahawksforever9504 spray it with PB blaster every day for about 5 days before you are going to break it loose. For example, if you were going to do it Saturday, spray it Monday before you drive it, then again Tuesday and so on until Saturday. In fact, spray ALL the nuts you will be removing. I promise you it will make it so much easier. Even if you don't have all that time... Spray it, then drive it around the block, spray again, drive around the block, spray again, drive around the block, then try to remove everything. It makes a huge difference
It took 1 minute with a 5 piece ball joint separator $45 after taxes from Amazon. @@Steven-gv1ke
Holy crap this is an awesome video and this guy really gave me the confidence to order the parts and do it myself.
I do wonder if the factory parts can be rebuilt to have as spares.
How about you stop making everything look so easy 😂 Keep the videos coming!
Common tools easy to follow video… priceless.
Great Job you are a super mechanic
Another great video..... although, I have to admit, I've always liked your commentary... 🙂
Awwwwww next one!
Excellent video👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Oh, just got mine today!
Bravo!this is best ~ my dear.😌
Thanks. I am curious why you did not replace the boot only. I know it will be time and effort consuming but a lot cheaper. Also will be advisable to replace the internal axle oil seal
He has lifetime warranty on this bad boy
You're gonna need:
Blue loctite
Nitrile gloves (recommended)
PB blaster spray
Anti-seize for drain plug threads
Torque wrench
54mm axle nut socket (some say 55mm will work)
Pry bar (two is better)
2 or 3 lb hammer
Metric socket set
10mm allen wrench (some are 24mm)
Bowl/bucket to catch diff oil
Grease for wheel bearings
2 quarts of 80w-90 diff oil
(2) drain plug gaskets Toyota part # 12157-10010 (don't reuse the old ones)
4 ft. of ¼” ID clear plastic tubing for diff oil
Wire brush
Paper towels
Note: Remove the diff FILL plug BEFORE removing the drain plug to ensure you can get diff fluid back in. A T-55 torx fits 10mm allen head plug. If its the rare 24mm, use a 15/16" six point socket... Its safer.
I also recommend replacing the diff seals (where the CV shafts enter) as well.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Not a spoken word, but great video.
Great video! Surprised you didn't go OEM on this one. Curious to see how these Duralast hold up!
Lifetime warranty on duralast 🤣🤣
@@depooltrd is that true? Or are you being sarcastic?
@@tynado1173 100% true. Normally the people use duralast on alternators, starters, brakes, CV, etc.
@@depooltrd good to know. Thanks man
@@depooltrd maybe but who wants to keep changing out cv axles? lol
Muy buen trabajo.
I wish you had showed how you tapped it in. You can see it slide into the diff but we can't see where you were hammering and with what tools. I have not been able to hammer mine in despite using a 3 lb dead blow hammer and a 2x4 piece of wood. Yes I greased the shaft and retention pin.
Watch again. Crowbar and sledge. Not sure how you are trying to use a piece of wood; the lip on the inner cup is for precisely this purpose.
Best way to pull that axle.
was that and OEM cv axle? and you replaced it with duralast? im curiuos why not just reboot it if it was an OEM axle?
Thanks man!
Thanks for the video. I'm about to do this exact repair. I noticed in your previous video on this, you had some trouble with slipping the inside end of the cv axle in. Was it easier this time around? Curious also, Is it possible to push the inside end of the cv axle in first before the part that goes into the hub?
No, it does not. I am currently working on this right now. Most people will remove the lower ball joint and take the whole piece out. I do not want to do that. Just copy this video.
It's impossible to do the hub last. The hub must be done first. The hardest part is getting the CV shaft to fully snap into the diff.
ASMR… lol. Nice job!
How are the Duralast parts holding up? I have a clicking noise and am thinking it’s the same part
Hi mate, i have a problem in RL height control sensor, theres no value when i check with intelegent tester.
So, whats the problem ? Or its the effect about accumulator ?
another great 100 series videos but I miss the narration! Helps folks like me who are less mechanically inclined to know what the heck we're doing.
Next one!
I think chowcares has an older video with narration. He also replaces the diff seals. Check it out! It’s about 2 years ago!
@@poiboi808 thanks! I'll have to replace these at some point
Any idea how long it took? I was told an 8 hour job but it looks like you got through a bit quicker.
What did you use to suspend the brake calipers?
Nevermind, saw the bungee cord later on in the video
I just use a zip tie through the caliper bracket bolt and zip tie it to the sway bar.
At 53 seconds or so, there is quite a bit of grease below the CV boot. Is that indicative of a torn CV boot and/or the need to replace the CV axle? That excess grease is present under both of my CV boots and I'm wondering if I need to deal with this by replacing the CV axles. Many thanks for posting this video, as well as your others!
If there’s still grease in the boot, u can try to do boots only. But if u notice dirt inside the boot, it might be time for a new axle
@@chowcares Sounds like a good way to proceed! Thanks again and for the record, I like your commentary just fine :)
@chowcares
How are your Aftermarket CV’s holding up? Just got a set from autozone since they are cheaper than the OEM ones
NAPA makes the strongest aftermarket CV shafts for future reference
@@Steven-gv1ke good to know I’m already replacing my duralast cvs
AutoZone is garbage as is most aftermarket. Napa usually makes ok parts but I hope it holds up well for you. Hope you aren't doing any extreme offroading.
10:03 that RX-7 though…
@chowcares I am in the middle of this job and no matter how hard I try, I can't get enough slack in the axle to pull it out the diff side. I ended up having to take the whole darned knuckle off! Any tips on how to get the axle out without having to take off the knuckle?
You can try turning the wheel left or right. I think I did that and was finally able to get the axle out
@@chowcares This. My suspension is stock, I removed the sway bar link, then the lower shock bolt and dropped the control arm as low as it would go. Then I turned the wheel to get a little more space. It just barely allows installation and removal...
Great videos!
does the inner get a snap ring?
Genius
Hey man! I attempted this method on a 2000 Landcruiser and the inboard side of the OEM cv axle came apart spilling the internals of the tulip joint all over the ground. The snap ring that holds the inboard side together must have come apart.
It wasn't a huge deal because I was replacing said axle, but it's worth noting to your subscribers that if they intend to reuse the axle, there's a possibility of it coming apart which would mean potential damage to the balls when they hit the pavement.
I personally will not attempt to use your method on my own truck because of this experience but that's mainly because the OEM cv axles are $400 per side.
Same happened to me when I tried that method. Definitely hit or miss
No snap ring on the inboard joint. Mine almost pulled apart trying this method. Easiest thing was to jab the casing with a crowbar from the opposite side of the truck. Two or three hits and it pops out. Getting an angle to jab on the passenger side is harder but doable... might take 4 hits 😉
So do you still think Duralast Gold CV Axles is worth it? Lifetime is nice but I would get tired of replacing it every 2 or 3 yrs no?
Hoping that the diff drop I installed will make them last longer
🙏 Hope so too..$99 is such a great deal for it with the lifetime warranty!
The lifetime warranty is nice, but only worth it if they don’t implode on the trail. A cheaper part that breaks when you need it the most is always a poor investment. (Not saying that’s the case here, and hoping they hold up for a long time and wear out slowly, so you can change them at your own discretion!)
Axle pusher
I got some “upgraded” axles.
They take a new Toyota axle then place a red urethane boot on the inside to replace the oem rubber.
This is a huge mistake! Don’t do it! Factory axles are best
👍👍💯💯💯⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐💖
I give you max 1 year on this aftermarket axle, I will tell you what happen after 1 year time, you will notice vibration , then you will start inspecting why , and I will save you time look at you needle bearing , bronze bushing and inner seal on the hub , they will be butchered by this aftermarket axle
Should of replaced the seal as well.
Why so silent? 🤣
Sometimes, I talk too much haha
@@chowcares Actually I do prefer You making comments along with the maintenence. They do help a lot.
@@Xplorer.Adventures I like his narration in his videos. Its helpful and gives good insight.
Come on dude.. don’t go mute on me! Wanted some information and you decide to go mute… 😂
Sorry i am late, i tried to get here before the “WHY NO OEM” bois.
(OEM is great for some things but come on, it s a CV axel. That lifetime warranty 🤌🤌)