I know this is an old video, but I just found it. I was thinking it would be a good idea to have 3 battery slots and only use two of them at a time. Then use a diode and monitor each batter individually so that when either one drops below X voltage, something alerts you (light or buzzer). Then you can place a fresh battery in the third spot and keep the heater running, instead of it shutting down and having to start it back up. Basically a way to monitor each battery and replace as needed, instead of running to the point the heater shuts off. If you wanted to get real fancy, you could make it so that you install all 3 batteries and it uses one battery at a time. Most of the time this would be useless, because if you have access to a charger, you have access to power... but it's the thought that counts. Speaking of... what about about if you incorporated a steam powered turbine that kicked in an recharged the batteries ... and so that you didn't run out of water, you collect exhaust condensate. As you can see, I've done all the hard work coming up with the ideas, so all you need to do now is make it happen 😂
Great videos david 👍 Just a thought on a 12v system could you connect a solar charger onto the system and swap out the solar input for a 12vdc hardwired input and then have the output on the diesel heater ?? That way the diesel heater is always pulling its voltage off the 12vdc psu but if there’s a power failure then the heater takes the voltage off the battery ? If that makes sense ??
The battery pack consists of 5 li-ion batteries in series. The maximum voltage for a battery is 4.2 v and the minimum is 2.9 v (the protection circuit will count out between 2.5 - 2.7 v). The pack voltage is between 14.5 - 21.0 volts for best battery life. Why not just use a 12 v battery pack directly? 3 li-ion batteries in series will give 11.1 v nominal with a range between 8.7 and 12.6 v. 4 LiFePO batteries are ideal, they have a nominal 12.8v and are really safe. You could also use 10 NiMh batteries to get 12 v as well but it might not give the necessary ampere with just one series string.
You could use a similar system like this for a backup to a mains powers supply in case of a power cut the unit has plenty of time to power down without blowing the ECU. Which is what i'm currently working on for my heater.
I know your post is 8 months ago but just found this channel as I got one of these heaters - and wanted to do exactly as you say - I wanted to build this battery back up incase of mains power cut to let the heater cool down properly - did you ever get your set up sorted ?? if so could you send a list of parts please - thank you
Lowest you probably want to go is 15volts (3v per cell, battery has several 5 cell banks inside it wired in series), though 16.5 would be a safer bet according to some, 12.5 is absolute minimum (2.5 volts per cell) albeit the battery itself might cut out at a certain voltage?
David Could you please help by providing a circuit diagram for this setup but with the Silent pump from James that has three wires as i dont want to damage anything?? Hope you can help.....
have you had any issues with the shutdown procedure? I know if the heater is running and you disconnect power without allowing it to shutdown the heater will meltdown.
Hi David, I've got a gallon or two of unleaded fuel some mixed as two stroke, some not, that has been kicking about for a year or three, I am reluctant to put this old fuel in any of my engines , do you think it would burn ok through the heater at a 50/50 mix with diesel ?
Mixed 50/50 with diesel will be ok, but you'll get a little residue from the 2 stroke but that can be burned off if you just run neat diesel every other tank.
Great video, David, just what I need (thank you), but not being a sparky, boy have you muddled my brain up trying to follow the wiring from the relay! If I can follow the wires I'm fine, but zooming a finger about over a nest of wires and I'm lost! A wiring diagram would be a HUGE help - pretty please? :-) I've been fighting my diesel heater for several years, mostly due to crap UK light levels stuffing up Flooded/AGM leisure batteries, thus not having the voltage guts to push adequate start-up watts at 120 which I assume would trip off a Jackery (so that's not a power option I'm presuming).
I have been building something similar. I have a 30a converter . If you see this can you answer... am I okay to monitor the battery and shut it off manually before getting too low and having lipo cut out ? . That way the heater goes threw the cool down. Just have to make sure to monitor it right ? Also do you figure I can run for 2 5 hours on 5ah?
By manually do you mean turning the heater off via the controller? If so, then yes. But you will need to experiment to see when you still have enough charge to complete the cooldown cycle.
Makita use 5s , 5x 3.65v gives the 18.4. Safe min voltage under low load is 3V per cell. 2.5v absolute min before damage. The extra capacity available to 2.5 is tiny, so play safe. 5x 3v min per cell,, safe pack minimum 15v
For anyone who has done this, what run time are you getting and from what battery size? I'm about to do this with Milwaukee M18's and have 4, 5, 8 and 12 ah batteries
Plenty of people here already commented on the 5S configuration of 18650 cells inside the Makita battery (so 21V max, 15V min)... BUT be very careful with “clone” knock-off versions as internally they often have poor quality cells with low capacity wiring, and very few have per cell balancing and this can lead to all sorts of “letting the magic smoke out” scenarios. Genuine Makita batteries, as you are using, will be fine dumping 10-20amps to fire up the glow plug.
I have a couple of knock off Makita batteries and can confirm they are indeed shite. Will need to try them on the heater and see if the take the start load.
My only worry would be the shutdown procedure. The Glo plug sucks 10-12 amps and if your Makita battery is low it will not provide that and if it did it will drag the voltage so low the battery BMS will shut power off completely. The battery contains 5 cells @ 3.7 volts to get 18.5 volts. They reach 4.2 volts each fully charged to give 21 volts.
Yes that's something I'll test. See what the voltage drop is on glow plug use and set the low cutoff around that so it still has enough power left to complete the shutdown. The shut down glow plug use doesn't last as long as the startup though.
Hi, I'm thinking of putting together a lithium ion pack to run a heater, what's the highest voltage you would feel confident running the 12v heaters on.
My diesel heater 3 weeks old runs great but I have to take the fuel line off because it floods the whole burn chamber with diesel, I let it burn off the extra the reattach the fuel line, and it'll run. I then took it apart cleaned all the fuel line pieces, glow plug and screen, why is it doing this fuel flood. Seems like my old glow plug was thinner than this new heaters plug< maybe no enough room to burn the fuel at the atomizer screen i dont know help.
Can you set it up to switch to a second battery versus shutting down? Or a toggle switch to flip to a second battery? Sorry, I’ve very electronic ignorant. Thank you
So I'm curious about these heaters/controllers and voltage in real world conditions - if using a normal battery pack and the voltage drops down low enough, does the heater go through a safe shutdown process similar to what you rigged up with the fuel pump/relay? Thanks!
None of the heaters I've tried have any kind of low voltage shutdown. I had one running off the power supply and it went down to 9V before stopping dead.
Want to see the run time on one of those batteries. Also could use 13.9 volt to power fuel shut off relay by running threw contacts on voltage shutdown board.
I think you should try tipping your all in one heater over to see how long it would run to simulate an accidental knock over and then wire in a tip over switch into the fuel pump circuit.
You could have it switch batteries at the low voltage, then have another relay to cut the fuel pump at the end of the second battery, for some added time. It’d be interesting to see how long it’ll run on the tool battery.
Hi David thanks again for your much appreciated channel and informative content .. could you advise approx running time on one portable tool battery such as the ones you are using ? Thanks
I was thinking about that. While it would certainly work I do have one concern. When you insert the new freshly charged battery the two batteries will now want to balance out the voltage difference so you'll have a rush of current into the lesser charged battery.
Didn't see anywhere how long the battery will run the actual heater, If it's only for an hour or so then it might be a good backup system for power outage but I am looking for the smallest battery pack that can run it all night.
The heater uses approximately 4A when running at full power. Assuming all night to be 8 hours you'd need 8 x 4Ah = 32Ah battery. You'd be about £100-150 for a LiFePo4 battery to do that.
These would be rough numbers as I haven't run a full test. So a 3Ah battery would give approx 1 hour run time at heater max power (5KW body). So if you run the heater at a lower setting the battery would last longer of course.
@david mcluckie please do a duration test. Or maybe tests at high medium and low outputs. Your idea for mobile heater is awesome. Additionally the battery has a low voltage protection circuit built in it. Sat the "20 volt" relay at that value
Great video Dave, I have set up my diesel heater using the 240w jackery. I used the 12v plug that came with the jackery but my output doesn't go above 5w. I was wondering what 12v plug did you use.
That would be quite nice. An all in one heater with couple of battery slots on the roof. No doubt they'd still miss out the low battery voltage protection. :)
So long as you used branded batteries (assuming that's how they designed it to be used!), then they come with built-in protection usually, either in the DW01A chip or an equivalent to it, it's the generics that are the questionable ones... :P
for lithium cells.... The absolute lowest they can be ran down to. is 3v per cell... Any lower, They will suffer from damage, and likely begin to lose their capacity... For a safe side, Its always best to have voltage cut off set to around 3.2v per cell... You can have 3v cut off, but the issue is.. Load on the battery can temp cause it to drop below 3v... So best to have Low voltage cut off set to slightly higher... I used to race RC cars as a hobby, and used Lithium Polymer batteries... and always ran a LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff) at 3.2v per cell.... I ran a 2S (2 cell) lipo, As it was race rules... so 7.4v Nominal voltage.... So fully charged, Each cell sits at 4.2v.. So 8.4v battery voltage... Fully discharged and LVC will kick in when battery hits 6.2v ( 3.2v per cell)... As a 18v drill battery is 5 cells... Nominal voltage is 18v.. Fully charged is 21v.... Fully discharged, 3v per cell, is 15v... So good to have Low Voltage Cutoff set to 16v.. (3.2v per cell) Hope this helps :)
fab 2 strok - I used Google Translate on your comment and thought it was a great request so am posting it here. Thanks. hello, could you put in description a link for the material used and a diagram of the circuit. thank you .
You’d have one battery at 22v and one at 16v. There’d be some current between them unless you had a blocking circuit. A good option would be to have a switch between the two though. 👍🏻
@@alexadam628 it's true that there would be a bit of energy transfer, but you can remove the discharged battery right after you attached the fully charged. The goal with 2 battery is to not lose the power and not have to shut down the system.
lithium battery's are 4.2 volts full per cell 3 volts max dead a cell and to make a 18 volt battery it takes 5 cells to make full 21 volts and 15 volts to complete dead
Not sure if that's a question or a statement. The point is to leave enough power in the battery to run the proper shutdown sequence. Pulling the fuel pump causes it to flame out and run the correct shutdown, including running the glow plug to keep the atomising screen clean. It would be the same as if you'd turned it off manually.
@@DavidMcLuckie i see thanks i wasnt sure on the shut down sequence if it just kept firing the glow plug trying to start it again or if it just stopped completely
Ah, once the fuel pump is cut out the ECU knows there is no fuel pump, shuts down and gives up until the circuit is complete again and you manually fire it up.
apparently fuel pump don't need be in the position as describe by instruction if you have clean fuel. the design which was taken from original manufacture design has to be that way so any deposit from dirt can be left in the outer ring of fuel pump at bottom of that ring instead of push by magnet ... Can you confirm?
@@DavidMcLuckie must have been a youtube issue thats now resolved as when i clicked on your blue reply nothing would show. They all appear fine now, cheers
What’s the point of this though? No one is going to run there heater on a tool battery? Lead acid batteries are way cheaper than tool batteries.Sorry didn’t watch to the end.. afterburner
Missing the point Jim. Many of us have power tool battery, I don't have lead acid. On a mobile space heater, it's a pretty useful feature to use the battery you already carry and charge. Lighter and more energy dense..
As Luke said the point is lot's of people have tool batteries. Especially people who have built their own campers etc. Just gives another option as a power source.
In life there really are two groups of people; the majority who ask “why?” and those of us like David who ask themselves “why not!” I think our side of this divide is far more fun and educational
Fugging genius! Love the ideas you keep coming up with. Always looking forwards to your next uploads.
It's my birthday and you're doing my favourite things! Thank you Mr!
You make it look easy! And of course it is. Brilliant!
Awesome. Love the ingenuity...makes me want to do this myself
I know this is an old video, but I just found it. I was thinking it would be a good idea to have 3 battery slots and only use two of them at a time. Then use a diode and monitor each batter individually so that when either one drops below X voltage, something alerts you (light or buzzer). Then you can place a fresh battery in the third spot and keep the heater running, instead of it shutting down and having to start it back up.
Basically a way to monitor each battery and replace as needed, instead of running to the point the heater shuts off. If you wanted to get real fancy, you could make it so that you install all 3 batteries and it uses one battery at a time.
Most of the time this would be useless, because if you have access to a charger, you have access to power... but it's the thought that counts. Speaking of... what about about if you incorporated a steam powered turbine that kicked in an recharged the batteries ... and so that you didn't run out of water, you collect exhaust condensate. As you can see, I've done all the hard work coming up with the ideas, so all you need to do now is make it happen 😂
Brilliant man 😎👍❤️
Brilliant video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great videos david 👍
Just a thought on a 12v system could you connect a solar charger onto the system and swap out the solar input for a 12vdc hardwired input and then have the output on the diesel heater ?? That way the diesel heater is always pulling its voltage off the 12vdc psu but if there’s a power failure then the heater takes the voltage off the battery ? If that makes sense ??
The battery pack consists of 5 li-ion batteries in series. The maximum voltage for a battery is 4.2 v and the minimum is 2.9 v (the protection circuit will count out between 2.5 - 2.7 v). The pack voltage is between 14.5 - 21.0 volts for best battery life.
Why not just use a 12 v battery pack directly? 3 li-ion batteries in series will give 11.1 v nominal with a range between 8.7 and 12.6 v. 4 LiFePO batteries are ideal, they have a nominal 12.8v and are really safe. You could also use 10 NiMh batteries to get 12 v as well but it might not give the necessary ampere with just one series string.
So the reason for the tool batteries is people have them. They don't have to buy another kind of battery.
You could use a similar system like this for a backup to a mains powers supply in case of a power cut the unit has plenty of time to power down without blowing the ECU. Which is what i'm currently working on for my heater.
I know your post is 8 months ago but just found this channel as I got one of these heaters - and wanted to do exactly as you say - I wanted to build this battery back up incase of mains power cut to let the heater cool down properly - did you ever get your set up sorted ?? if so could you send a list of parts please - thank you
Lowest you probably want to go is 15volts (3v per cell, battery has several 5 cell banks inside it wired in series), though 16.5 would be a safer bet according to some, 12.5 is absolute minimum (2.5 volts per cell) albeit the battery itself might cut out at a certain voltage?
Can I mount the heater on a small angle or even vertical?
The Makita batteries have an internal BMS that will keep them from discharging too far. I think they cut off around 12v.
David Could you please help by providing a circuit diagram for this setup but with the Silent pump from James that has three wires as i dont want to damage anything??
Hope you can help.....
Thanks for the video. Are you able to provide a wiring diagram as i'm not quite sure please..
have you had any issues with the shutdown procedure? I know if the heater is running and you disconnect power without allowing it to shutdown the heater will meltdown.
Hi David, I've got a gallon or two of unleaded fuel some mixed as two stroke, some not, that has been kicking about for a year or three, I am reluctant to put this old fuel in any of my engines , do you think it would burn ok through the heater at a 50/50 mix with diesel ?
Mixed 50/50 with diesel will be ok, but you'll get a little residue from the 2 stroke but that can be burned off if you just run neat diesel every other tank.
Great video, David, just what I need (thank you), but not being a sparky, boy have you muddled my brain up trying to follow the wiring from the relay! If I can follow the wires I'm fine, but zooming a finger about over a nest of wires and I'm lost! A wiring diagram would be a HUGE help - pretty please? :-)
I've been fighting my diesel heater for several years, mostly due to crap UK light levels stuffing up Flooded/AGM leisure batteries, thus not having the voltage guts to push adequate start-up watts at 120 which I assume would trip off a Jackery (so that's not a power option I'm presuming).
What regulator did you use?
I have been building something similar. I have a 30a converter . If you see this can you answer... am I okay to monitor the battery and shut it off manually before getting too low and having lipo cut out ? . That way the heater goes threw the cool down. Just have to make sure to monitor it right ? Also do you figure I can run for 2 5 hours on 5ah?
By manually do you mean turning the heater off via the controller? If so, then yes. But you will need to experiment to see when you still have enough charge to complete the cooldown cycle.
Hi David. Do u have a link for the Power reg and the voltage Sensing Board?
I've put them in the description now.
Makita use 5s , 5x 3.65v gives the 18.4.
Safe min voltage under low load is 3V per cell. 2.5v absolute min before damage.
The extra capacity available to 2.5 is tiny, so play safe.
5x 3v min per cell,, safe pack minimum 15v
Nice. That's the kind of quality reply I like. Full of information. Thank you.
@@chrishartley1210 a BMS. Makita makstar batteries all have them, fused, MOSFET switched, quite beautiful actually.
How long will it run the heater for ?
Put a link in for the regulator.
For anyone who has done this, what run time are you getting and from what battery size?
I'm about to do this with Milwaukee M18's and have 4, 5, 8 and 12 ah batteries
Excellent idea ,is there some links to buy the components for this
Many thanks
do you have a link to the actual relay. i want to replicate what you have.
Plenty of people here already commented on the 5S configuration of 18650 cells inside the Makita battery (so 21V max, 15V min)... BUT be very careful with “clone” knock-off versions as internally they often have poor quality cells with low capacity wiring, and very few have per cell balancing and this can lead to all sorts of “letting the magic smoke out” scenarios. Genuine Makita batteries, as you are using, will be fine dumping 10-20amps to fire up the glow plug.
I have a couple of knock off Makita batteries and can confirm they are indeed shite. Will need to try them on the heater and see if the take the start load.
My only worry would be the shutdown procedure. The Glo plug sucks 10-12 amps and if your Makita battery is low it will not provide that and if it did it will drag the voltage so low the battery BMS will shut power off completely.
The battery contains 5 cells @ 3.7 volts to get 18.5 volts. They reach 4.2 volts each fully charged to give 21 volts.
Yes that's something I'll test. See what the voltage drop is on glow plug use and set the low cutoff around that so it still has enough power left to complete the shutdown. The shut down glow plug use doesn't last as long as the startup though.
Hi, I'm thinking of putting together a lithium ion pack to run a heater, what's the highest voltage you would feel confident running the 12v heaters on.
As long as you use that buck converter in between, you could go up to 40v, i believe. I am not sure without it.
My diesel heater 3 weeks old runs great but I have to take the fuel line off because it floods the whole burn chamber with diesel, I let it burn off the extra the reattach the fuel line, and it'll run. I then took it apart cleaned all the fuel line pieces, glow plug and screen, why is it doing this fuel flood. Seems like my old glow plug was thinner than this new heaters plug< maybe no enough room to burn the fuel at the atomizer screen i dont know help.
Can you set it up to switch to a second battery versus shutting down? Or a toggle switch to flip to a second battery? Sorry, I’ve very electronic ignorant. Thank you
There is a module that switches to a second battery at a preset voltage.
So I'm curious about these heaters/controllers and voltage in real world conditions - if using a normal battery pack and the voltage drops down low enough, does the heater go through a safe shutdown process similar to what you rigged up with the fuel pump/relay? Thanks!
None of the heaters I've tried have any kind of low voltage shutdown. I had one running off the power supply and it went down to 9V before stopping dead.
@@DavidMcLuckie Understood. That's not terribly surprising I guess.
Do a full run on the battery
Want to see the run time on one of those batteries. Also could use 13.9 volt to power fuel shut off relay by running threw contacts on voltage shutdown board.
You'd have to modify the board a bit for that to work. This board just uses the input (sense) voltage and uses that as the output as well.
Do you have the links to the parts that you used for the wiring👍
I'll put them in the descrpition.
Hi David, how about a link to the regulator, I think others have also asked the question
I'll update the description with the links, thanks for reminding me.
I think you should try tipping your all in one heater over to see how long it would run to simulate an accidental knock over and then wire in a tip over switch into the fuel pump circuit.
That's a pretty good idea actually.
You could have it switch batteries at the low voltage, then have another relay to cut the fuel pump at the end of the second battery, for some added time. It’d be interesting to see how long it’ll run on the tool battery.
Mike Jones - Those are excellent ideas!
Hi David great work extremely informative and useful ... would it be possible to indicate approx running time on a tool battery ? Thanks again
Hi David thanks again for your much appreciated channel and informative content .. could you advise approx running time on one portable tool battery such as the ones you are using ? Thanks
Mike.....wouldn't it be better just to keep the same circuit here and stack batteries parallel? Would do the same thing but double your AH
@Wade Brewer if you do it his way you can charge one at a time ! . Both ways make sense .
So would a straight connection to a 12v tool battery work?
Yes, assuming it has enough current to start the heater. Two 12V in parallel might be better.
Hello. Can you build it with 2 battery packs?
You could build it with as many as you can fit.
could you use two battery adapters in parallel so you could hot swap batteries without shutting the heater down?
I was thinking about that. While it would certainly work I do have one concern. When you insert the new freshly charged battery the two batteries will now want to balance out the voltage difference so you'll have a rush of current into the lesser charged battery.
@@DavidMcLuckie put diode on each battery
@@DavidMcLuckie ah yeah, good point!
@@melovescotch what Diode and how where does it go please? Picture would help 👍
Have you ever tried to run one directly off the 18V battery? Without the stepdown?
No, but now I want to. :)
@@DavidMcLuckie I think the limit is 11-16V so it may be a problem.
Didn't see anywhere how long the battery will run the actual heater, If it's only for an hour or so then it might be a good backup system for power outage but I am looking for the smallest battery pack that can run it all night.
The heater uses approximately 4A when running at full power. Assuming all night to be 8 hours you'd need 8 x 4Ah = 32Ah battery. You'd be about £100-150 for a LiFePo4 battery to do that.
What about 4 x 5Ah battery/ like in the Makita power bank which takes four batteries
Out of interest how long running time do you get using an 18v battery
These would be rough numbers as I haven't run a full test. So a 3Ah battery would give approx 1 hour run time at heater max power (5KW body). So if you run the heater at a lower setting the battery would last longer of course.
@david mcluckie please do a duration test. Or maybe tests at high medium and low outputs. Your idea for mobile heater is awesome.
Additionally the battery has a low voltage protection circuit built in it. Sat the "20 volt" relay at that value
Great video Dave, I have set up my diesel heater using the 240w jackery. I used the 12v plug that came with the jackery but my output doesn't go above 5w. I was wondering what 12v plug did you use.
I wanna try same idea on my Ecoflow.
My Ecoflow delta max 2000 will run my diesel heater for a few minutes then it shuts down. Ecoflow goes into overload protection on the dc port
I think you may have given china an idea for another variant of the ubiquitous diesel heater kit with this tool battery setup... :P
That would be quite nice. An all in one heater with couple of battery slots on the roof. No doubt they'd still miss out the low battery voltage protection. :)
So long as you used branded batteries (assuming that's how they designed it to be used!), then they come with built-in protection usually, either in the DW01A chip or an equivalent to it, it's the generics that are the questionable ones... :P
That too. I was thinking more of the fuel cutoff on low voltage and not their usual dead stop policy. :)
I suppose that would be based upon what "stripped back for more profit" grade it was... :D
for lithium cells.... The absolute lowest they can be ran down to. is 3v per cell... Any lower, They will suffer from damage, and likely begin to lose their capacity...
For a safe side, Its always best to have voltage cut off set to around 3.2v per cell... You can have 3v cut off, but the issue is.. Load on the battery can temp cause it to drop below 3v...
So best to have Low voltage cut off set to slightly higher...
I used to race RC cars as a hobby, and used Lithium Polymer batteries... and always ran a LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff) at 3.2v per cell....
I ran a 2S (2 cell) lipo, As it was race rules... so 7.4v Nominal voltage.... So fully charged, Each cell sits at 4.2v.. So 8.4v battery voltage...
Fully discharged and LVC will kick in when battery hits 6.2v ( 3.2v per cell)...
As a 18v drill battery is 5 cells... Nominal voltage is 18v.. Fully charged is 21v.... Fully discharged, 3v per cell, is 15v... So good to have Low Voltage Cutoff set to 16v.. (3.2v per cell)
Hope this helps :)
Thank you. That is very useful to know.
That sensing relay link doesn’t work any one got another one ? Thanks
amzn.to/3R60phL
bonjour , pourait tu maitre en description un lien pour le materiel utilisé et un schéma du circuit . merci .
fab 2 strok - I used Google Translate on your comment and thought it was a great request so am posting it here. Thanks. hello, could you put in description a link for the material used and a diagram of the circuit. thank you .
Parts used in the description but not a wiring diagram.
@@DavidMcLuckie Thanks David, I think most could gather enough wiring detail from your video. As always, looking forward to your next video.
14.4v on pack .. have fun dave as per.. lolol
You should do a stream one day? I’d happily donate 50aud via streamlabs
One moment please, are u also a Big Clive fan David?
Because of the connectors? XD
Absofuckingloutely a Big Clive fan. I've even seen him IRL and he is indeed big.
I guess if you have 2 batteries parallel you should be able to swap the battery without the system shutting down.
You’d have one battery at 22v and one at 16v. There’d be some current between them unless you had a blocking circuit. A good option would be to have a switch between the two though. 👍🏻
@@alexadam628 it's true that there would be a bit of energy transfer, but you can remove the discharged battery right after you attached the fully charged. The goal with 2 battery is to not lose the power and not have to shut down the system.
I did this and I don’t imagine I’m doing any battery damage as I’m only swapping them and they are connected in parallel only for a few seconds
lithium battery's are 4.2 volts full per cell 3 volts max dead a cell and to make a 18 volt battery it takes 5 cells to make full 21 volts and 15 volts to complete dead
You shouldn't disconnect the fuel pump because wont it keep trying to fire the glow plug and still draw power from the battery
Not sure if that's a question or a statement. The point is to leave enough power in the battery to run the proper shutdown sequence. Pulling the fuel pump causes it to flame out and run the correct shutdown, including running the glow plug to keep the atomising screen clean. It would be the same as if you'd turned it off manually.
@@DavidMcLuckie i see thanks i wasnt sure on the shut down sequence if it just kept firing the glow plug trying to start it again or if it just stopped completely
Ah, once the fuel pump is cut out the ECU knows there is no fuel pump, shuts down and gives up until the circuit is complete again and you manually fire it up.
Music from a 1970's game show lol.
You can change the burner to 24v
You can change the controller settings to 24V. But it won't run.
@@DavidMcLuckie what happens if you run two in series and then use a 24 v regulator
apparently fuel pump don't need be in the position as describe by instruction if you have clean fuel. the design which was taken from original manufacture design has to be that way so any deposit from dirt can be left in the outer ring of fuel pump at bottom of that ring instead of push by magnet ... Can you confirm?
I thought it was also to aid in purging air from the pump as well.
Aye
15v to 21v max
why aren't your replies visible.. very frustrating
Replies?
@@DavidMcLuckie must have been a youtube issue thats now resolved as when i clicked on your blue reply nothing would show. They all appear fine now, cheers
Doesn’t the heater it’s self have a low voltage protection built in so you can just use a regulator?
Not on any of the ones I've had. I've run one all the way down to 9V before the voltage was too low and it just stopped.
Can you draw this wiring on paper for me 😊
I’m working on a project of the same general idea not a heater tho
2ND
Please can you make me one up thanks £££??? With heat exchange and yeah thanks😎🙋♂️
A battery powered diesel heater with hot water as well. Sounds like an interesting project.
@@DavidMcLuckie yes do it Dave
What’s the point of this though? No one is going to run there heater on a tool battery? Lead acid batteries are way cheaper than tool batteries.Sorry didn’t watch to the end.. afterburner
Missing the point Jim. Many of us have power tool battery, I don't have lead acid. On a mobile space heater, it's a pretty useful feature to use the battery you already carry and charge. Lighter and more energy dense..
As Luke said the point is lot's of people have tool batteries. Especially people who have built their own campers etc. Just gives another option as a power source.
In life there really are two groups of people; the majority who ask “why?” and those of us like David who ask themselves “why not!” I think our side of this divide is far more fun and educational
@@theonlywoody2shoes 👌
Sometimes it’s just fun to see if it can be done!