Dissecting the MINIQ BG6300 milling table
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ม.ค. 2021
- In this video I will disassemble, slightly modify then reassemble the MINIQ BG6300 milling table. This milling table is quite decent right out of the box. It is really rigid and solid. Since I want to make this into a stepper motor-controlled table, I had to disassemble it in order to understand how it works and how I can incorporate the stepper motors. The stepper motor control will be demonstrated in the next video.
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I want to buy this cross table and the idea helped me a lot in the purchase decision. You can currently get it in Germany for around 20.-€ (including shipping within Germany) in the bay. Thank you very much, the video is very well made. I haven't found a better one for this cross table on TH-cam.
Ich möchte mir diesen Kreuztisch kaufen und die Vorstellung hat mir sehr bei der Kaufentscheidung geholfen. Derzeit bekommt man ihn in Deutschland für ca. 20.-€ in der Bucht. Vielen Dank das Video ist anschaulich sehr gut gemacht. Ich habe kein besseres zu diesem Kreuztisch auf TH-cam gefunden.
Hi! I am very happy to hear that my video helped you to decide. 20 Euros is a very good price for this milling table, I think.
THanks! awesome mod. will try some time when accuracy needs it ;)
Thank you! I hope it was useful. If you have a bit higher budget, I suggest you to look at the "improved" version of this table. It has a bit better, more rigid structure with linear guides. Unfortunately, I haven't tested that table yet, but it looks promising.
Hello,
This is a serious improvement. I am really surprised that the central nut is not the cause of the play, as on 3D printers, especially with this type of low quality threaded rod(translation DeepL)
I use a cross table of this type and the most important play is generated by the housing of the copper nut... a little too wide! Abnormal play cancelled out by threaflocker...
Thanks! Yeah the nut seems to be good enough and I can achieve quite good movement of the table after adjusting the screws that tension that dovetail rail.
Thanks for the video!
You are welcome!
Thanks for doing the teardown. FYI, the brass plates are called gibs, and help reduce play and increase rigidity of the setup. In machining tables, these gibs are usually tapered. This allows the play to be adjusted by rotating a screw at the end of the table, or possibly both ends of the table. You want it to be tight enough to control lateral movement, but not too much otherwise there will be increased wear and the table will not slide freely.
Wow, thanks for the detailed description! This helped me a lot, since I am neither a native speaker nor a machinist, so many times I don't know the name of the parts or I don't know if those parts have any specific name. In the next video, I will use its proper name. Thanks again, I learned something new again!
@@CuriousScientist And I am only an Arduino hobbyist, and learn a lot from you!
This is the goal of my channel and community! We are learning from each other!
Thanks for this comprehensive teardown.. I can't see a link to the stepper motor upgrade though..
Thanks! You can open my channel and search for it. Takes 5 seconds to find it. Just search for "BG6300", there will be 2 videos.
grateful@@CuriousScientist found it instantly as you said. Thank you
Glad to hear it! I hope they will be useful!
Very nice video! I also purchased one with potential plans of converting to CNC with simple Nema 17 stepper motors which will allow for quicker, more precise movements with a DRO (digital read out). One suggestion could be to use precision potentiometers (I have some geared ones) too act as cheap ‘encoders’ by simply using the map function (max and min adc value to corresponding x/y position)
Thanks!
I think that your suggestion would not work. I mean, you would need to find a potentiometer with hundreds of turns. It would cost much more than a AS5600 board. Even a 10 turn precision potentiometer is more expensive than an AS5600 board. And you would also need a reliable voltage source.
@@CuriousScientist Well, a precision 10 turn potentiometer with shipping costs around $5 AUD (with shipping). I have a fair amount of experience using them, and so long as the micro and potentiometer are powered off the same rails, then the consistency of the voltage does not effect the output (As if the voltage drops to say 4.5V from 5, then the micro’s ADC reference goes to 4.5V being it’s highest value, and the reading from the pot will remain the same). You would however need at least a 12bit ADC to get good enough accuracy, and I certainly see the value in simple encoders. Only thing with encoders is you will need a homing switch unless you plan on saving the last known value into EEPROM (which would not update when powered off, so if the table is moved then the real position would be lost). In the next coming weeks I shall have a go at using the potentiometers and will be sure to post my findings 😄
Edit: A 10 turn pot will cover both axis, however it may be necessary to even gear it up to increase the range. I certainly agree that the encoder would be far simpler, however I’m not a fan of homing switches. The potentiometer could act as a reference position for the stepper and controller, with the controller then microstepping the stepper to get 10th of a millimetre accuracy, if not more.
How about the wear and tear of the potentiometers? I think they are not made for this purpose. My magnetic encoders can run as fast as you want and as long as I want. Also, limit switch for homing is very simple and really a standard thing.
@@CuriousScientist I am well aware of homing switches being standard (I work quite extensively with CNC Machines (routers/3D printers etc)). You do have a fair point with wear and tear as we will certainly have different uses for this table (I would only use a few times a month). The undisputed best method would be a closed loop system with battery backed up encoders as are used in high end servo powered CNC machines, but they would be far overkill for such a small system 😄. In my current opinion, I believe a potentiometer will suffice (for my purposes at least), however that may change after I do my modifications in the coming months.
As a side note, your channel is filled with knowledgeable videos, and your style of presentation is such that It is quite easy to watch the longer videos you have made without realising how much time has gone by. Looking forward to future videos!
Yes, it all comes down to the usage. If you don't use it that much, potentiometers can be a good solution, I totally agree.
Also, thank you for your valuable feedback! It helps me to tailor the content and the style of my future videos. I hope you will find the future videos useful as well. I will have a lot of (stepper)-motor-related stuff with encoders...etc. Cheers!
Cool stuff! I think nobody in YT have done this kind of improvement on this xy table.
Let's see how will be evolving this thing!
The handles maybe have some threadlocker, you can try loosing it by heating the piece.
Thanks! I try to come up with "original content" or at least with something unique. We will see where it goes. Today, I sawed a 40 cm long threaded rod for the x-axis. Then, I will replace the y-axis threaded rod with the rod of the x-axis, so at least the y-axis will have both the handle and the stepper motor at the end. I will try the heating method, thank you for the suggestion! It would be nice to have both the handle and the stepper motor on both axes. At this moment, I started to design and print a few preliminary mounts for the stepper motor. But I still need to figure out how to fix the stepper to motor to the mount and then the mount to the milling table.
Hah, I used the heating gun that I use for the heat shrink tubes and after ~3 minutes of heating I was able to remove the knob from the screw. Unfortunately, it is an extremely soft material, so the wrench I used to loosen it left some dents and marks, but I don't really care about it. Thanks again for the advice! I will soon post the second part of the video, I am just struggling with some adjustments for the stepper motor speed.
@@CuriousScientist Oh, what a pity, maybe is not aluminium but zamak this have a lower fusion temperature
I don't really know what it can be but nevertheless thank to your suggestion, the device looks great. There won't be any missing parts. :D
Do you really find benefit from converting the metal hole to bearing? If there is no gap between the rods and end holes i cannot see other benefit than protecting against wear if it is used very much
And that's exactly the benefit. Imagine putting this board in a small DIY CNC machine. That's a lot of back and forth movements, thus wear. I tried to minimize issues, and it can be mitigated with a cheap part, so why not add it?!
Excellent information. So I have a "dumb" question for you. I'd like to extend the X axis for additional travel. M8x1.25 threaded rod is easily found, but how would I go about extending the table? Or perhaps using two tables end to end?
Hi and thanks! The "problem" with extending the table is that the range is limited by the length of the extruded part. If you can get something that fits precisely in the "grip" with the dovetail, you can extend it. I would just buy a bigger table because if you would just make the top part longer, you might have issues with flexing and vibrations. I hope this also answers your email you sent to me... ;)
@@CuriousScientist Thank you for the detailed response. I'm glad you made the connecting between my comment and email, it makes this a lot easier. Fair warning, this disassembly video has opened Pandora's Box, full of ideas. From a machinist/engineer perspective you are correct about the issue of it unwanted movement. At the same time, I can get these for $25 each. A slide table with 12" of travel is easily $200 or more, weighs 5x as much and nowhere near as straightforward or "serviceable" as this one is. Plus, it has little room for error in initial setup compared to A4 paper dimensions. Not exactly wise build such a fault into what I need to make, especially when it can be resolved with a little foresight.
In the vein of "Work smarter, not harder", it's kind of hard to justify 8x the expense for such a limited gain. After 2+ years straight of being tethered to my computer, manually straightening pictures and deciphering blurry Japanese Text, to finish translating the Workshop Manual for the 20B Eunos Cosmo, I kinda would like to avoid as much picture editing as possible on all future projects. There is good reason why "GIMP" is a 4-letter work :D
I just converted my X Y Tables to CNC Drives. I did not do it perfectly. As I was hacking it not actually reengineering it. But it works and is back together with a Dremel on top in a Z axis frame work and yesterday I milled a test slot in a piece of wood. My goal is to machine on my 1950s Model Trains to allow for digital upgrades. The table was the size i wanted for my 1/64 scale trains. Maybe you would like to see the results. I want to add ball bearings to the end cap and add manual knob back on to the shafts. As I used the handle end of the screw shaft to attach the stepper motor couplers, you did a nice job explaining the XY table assembly. Dennis th-cam.com/video/zXT_pcRUGxU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Zb80kNYjHpRN573S
Thanks! A tip: I hope you won't get offended, but fix your camera on something. It is impossible to watch your video.
I just finished the video and love the result I need those bearing part numbers and sources now to search for your next video OUTSTANDING. My table works BUT i want your bearing solution real bad. Thank You so much. Dennis
@@DennisMurphey If you just simply read the description of the video, you can see that there is a link in it that leads to the parts I use in my videos. If you then scroll down to the "Structural and motion-related parts" section, you will see the bearings there...
A little bit of duct or insulation tape may hold that plastic in place and still look OK...
Yes, probably it would be enough. When I have a little extra time, I will try to 3d print something to replace it.
6:36 it's called a gib.
Thank you very much!