This is the correct way to do it! A lot of guys just move the rest until they get a perfect bullethole at 5ft with a fletched arrow and call it good! My local shop even did this when I bought my bow. I had to show the tech the correct way to do it. Needless to say I now do all my own tuning. Bareshaft, walkback! Great video! I’m happy to see it done correctly for once! So much bad information on TH-cam!
Thanks! Yes, it's scary what's out there for "information", and even scarier what some "bow techs" will do to your bow in a shop! I figured out a long time ago that I was better off learning how to tune a bow myself and just went to town on learning. There are few better feelings in life than knowing your bow is 100% dialed!!
I've always thought this. I want to be a self reliant bowhunter anyways. there is enough information and videos out there nowadays to feel confident in being able to set everything up yourself. looks like I'll be buying a press in the near future. are those factory strings or customs? @@HuntUrban
This is the absolute best vid for full advice ive found yet!!! Ive asked people in specific detail that know all about this but this is the only piece of advice ive gotten that i fully understand and can easily do! I subscribed and turned on notifications!
One of the best videos out there on labeling the steps but not on what to do to remedy a fault. I think you'd have more views and longer retention time if you went in depth. It's better to be long winded.
Good advice your bow looks sweet . Just upgraded from hoyt powermax and bought a mathews vertix. My first bow I ever bought at 16 years old. Got all flow green cables and strings. The snow needs to melt so I can test her range. My powermax shot good up to 90 so I'm looking forward to see how far i can get my vertix.
What you are looking for with thes plumb and level bubbles is a knocked arrow resting truly square to the string. I think a sheetrock square would be great for this.
Absolutely awesome video. Just bought a Vertix and this will he the first bow that I build myself from start to finish, there’s no other video out there like this. Would you mind doing a video on the top hats and how to adjust.
I have a southland archery destroyer that is a couple or three years old and am planning on replacing the string and cables on it but I can't find any documentation online about initial timing marks on the cams for a starting point. Another big question I have is about ATA and brace height, I've heard some professionals say that it's not really important to check these as it is on cam timing and such. I know when I got the destroyer new, the ATA was off by about 5/8" and brace height was about 1/2" off from specs listed on their website about what the bow was supposed to be. Long in both cases. I'm new to doing my own tuning but not new to shooting archery. Not sure exactly what I should be adjusting if I install new string and cables and ATA and brace height are still off like they were when the bow was new. Any insight would be greatly appreciated thanks!
How do you like shooting the vertix at 31” dl? How steep are the strings, how many anchor points do you get? Does your nose touch the string? You should do a shooting review of the bow
chris klauder - happy to do a video on shooting it at a long DL. I’m shooting the bow in the 30.5” module, but Mathews tend to run a little longer. This bow is right at 30.95” actual draw. String angle is great, and there isn’t any nick pinch. With the size of the cams, it really feels like a 33-34” ATA bow.
I’m not sure if I can take cams off and change top hats. Once our dealer gets us out the door that’s it. They wanna charge extra for stuff like that. Bowtech on the other hand I just have to twist a string or better yet now I just have to turn a screw to move cam left or right. Wish Mathews would do that cause I love those bows. Ty for the video.
Find another dealer. I understand that they may have to charge you for the top hat kits but if they sell you the bow they should be making damn sure it shoots great when you leave.
I’ve just bought a vertix from my local dealer,we were paper tuning bare shaft and were getting about a 3/4 inch tear know low.We dropped the rest to the point where it was way to low.The only way we could get it to a bullet Hope was back out the bottom limb 1 1/2 turns.What would your thoughts be on this or maybe another solution.
Cheers for the reply,after getting home in sat and thought about it for a while it was the the d loop pinching my nock.After putting serving in between the nick and the bottom of the d loop I got perfect bullet holes.Just shot a really nice fallow buck with it yesterday very happy with the bow.
Great vid on the subject. Why don't you shoot the bareshaft at your furthest range (15 yds in your basement). Wouldn't that show deviation in the arrow better than a fletched shaft? Don't the flethchings help to stabilize the arrow's flight?
Yes, a bare shaft will show greater deviation than a fletched shaft, however, that deviation sometimes isn't the bow. A bare shaft will sometimes show shooter flaws that aren't consistent, and therefore make you chase your tail around. Also, it's hard to perfectly replicate the weight on the back of the bare shaft vs. fletched, so I've found it better to tune with fletched past 10' through paper. The fletchings do help stabilize the arrow, but it won't correct it to perfect. It's amazing how perfect I can get a bare shaft at 10' (and I mean PERFECT), only to see a tear show up at 15 yards. Lastly, shooting the fletched arrow helps rule out any fletching contact. If there was any, it would show up pretty noticably at the 15 yard mark.
Great video. Heard you on a podcast speaking to your max of roughly 20 yards to the target due to the surrounding neighborhood. What is your go to arrow, total weight, and broadhead set up that you have seen most success with. Thanks , keep up the good work.
LSU GOLFER - yup, I very rarely shoot over 20 yards, just because of how tight my properties are. I’ve found black eagle arrows to be amazingly straight and their tolerances are the best I’ve found. I like to use a heavy arrow with high FOC and a mechanical broadhead. My current arrow is around 525 grains and has a 19% FOC. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other specific questions- happy to help!
I don’t have any pro shops near me and I’m pretty new to bow hunting with a compound bow. I don’t understand how to do any of this, and I don’t have anywhere to take it. It sucks
I already tuned my 2020 arrow shafts that I made in January 2 my 2019 CT 5 bow. Very impressed with the flight & penetration of them. I just finished some 23 style target shafts that I was going 2 put 125 grain points in also but i have a right tear with these heavier points. I have a Centergy @ the bow shop awaiting a swap of cams with my other rest on that bow. Wasn't planning on messing with the rest on the CT 5 which is perfect 4 that setup. My ? is which way 2 I move & tinker the Nexxus since I haven't had a need 2 touch it once over the last year? Thanks for your great videos which r very easy 2 follow 4 all skill levels.
ok, how do I do this to my bear legion w/whisker bisquit and solo cam? no bow vise available and no d loop(release goes on string old school)bow shoots field points great but fixed broadheads fly different (ALOT)
Just setting up my V3 and to get center shot at 13/16 I need to move my rest (Hamskea hybrid hunter) pretty far to the left. Is that normal/OK or should I start messing with the top hats to try and bring the string right? When the arrow is nocked it looks straight on the shelf. I just don’t like the fact the rest is almost of room to move further left if needed. Thanks!
Related but unrelated. I want to set a saddle video. You seem to have your set up dialed. I wanna see everything you use and how you set it all up. Looking at a tetherd saddle and platform for next season
@@HuntUrban I sure do! I'm making bank on those things lately. I just had to fix a repair from a "pro shop" on another mathews. It's a pretty slick set up and definitely easier swapping top hats than cam spacers on most binarys.
Hey Chad - I always do my third axis as well, but I wait until the bow is 100% spot on at 20 yards. I like to make sure the 2nd is set before I sight in, just so when I'm tuning I know the arrow is leaving perfectly level. This step isn't needed, I just do it because I'm super anal!
Hi there, thanks for the info. I just bought a vertix and i was a bit disappointed with how quickly they "tuned" my brand new bow. Question for ya, When i pull my bow back ( 70 lbs) which is a bit heavy for me .... the bow "dumps" hard ...and has that side to side shake as i get to my anchor point. I don't see others' vertixs doing this when i watch videos .... is this an indication of my cams not being timed? is it not tuned well? ...or is it because i'm pulling max weight for me? thanks!
@@HuntUrban Thanks for the advice. I don't have a bowpress...but the shop does and i bought it brand new ...and paid top dollar. I'll request they take a second look into this for me. Appreciate your advice.
I'd say 300 at first glance, but I recommend considering what weight you're going to be shooting in front of the arrow. I like to add weight to get my FOC higher, and therefore always go stiffer on spine.
What makes this a "super tune"..? I feel like this is just a standard tune. I would consider a super tune to be yoke tuning, walk back tuning, and torque tuning (for the crazies) but every shop should be doing this "super tune" for every bow going out the door. Just a thought, would love to hear your feedback...
Cole - this bow doesn't have yokes, so by top hat tuning (or shim tuning), you're moving the cam to effectively change the center shot of the bow. By shooting the bare shaft through paper up close, then walking back to 15-20 yards and shooting through paper, it will almost 100% eliminate the need for walk back tuning. I always verify that at 50 yards after tuning, but to date, and over 100 bows tuned, haven't had a single one be off. This system is really a super simple, quick, efficient way to get your bow fully dialed.
On the new QAD mx rest. The rest is topped out before I can Center the bottom of the arrow in the Berger holes. I have the rest set with the arrow in the little grove on the riser. Is your rest set up the same way?
Sean Jyringi - no, that’s not normal. Set your rest back to dead level and running through the middle of the Berger hope. Your cam timing is off and causing the vertical tear.
I read somewhere blue is the one hue on the color wheel that deer can see and see quite well. Might want to think about switching the color of that bow string!
Hey man, i gave you a subscribe. Very nice video. You were clear and concise, the editing was done well and you seem very knowledgeable. The closest bow shop to me is a Scheels and it's an hour away. I've purchased a bow through them twice now and both times i just feel like they rushed me out of there and don't really care to help me get my bows dialed in. It would be really awesome if you made a more detailed video! I also shoot a Mathews Vertix with an integrate rest! Cheers man, i hope to see a more in depth video from you in the future!
Great video, love the content. Any suggestions on getting 1/8 timing issue out. I put the bow on the draw board and no matter what I do its the same. Tighten and loosen cables and still the same. Obviously, it change cam to cam..
Did you setting Mathews bow Halon 32” and Halon X Comp 37”? Do you have any suggestion? I setting the center shot by laser and bind up about 21 mm instead 20.6 mm (13/16”). Any other suggestion it will very appreciate.
I always start them right at 13/16". Once I get back to 20 yards and am shooting a fletched shaft through paper, I might move it slightly (1/32" - 1/64"). Overall, I don't really care if it isn't dead on 13/16", just as long as it was there when I went back to 20 yards, and it's a perfect tear through paper. This tells me that the powerstroke of the bow is correct, and I have the proper top hat system in the bow. The rest is just getting the arrow to accept that power correctly - does that make sense?
I'll verify the tune by doing a walk-back, but I've found all my bows to be shooting pretty darn perfect once that 15 - 20 yard fletched shot through paper is perfect. I make sure to get really, really anal here, and won't stop tuning until the hole is absolutely PERFECT. Let me know what you find when you do the tune and check it with the walk back!
I’m trying to paper tune my bow currently but I keep getting a weird tear. My center shot is great but the tear remains. Is there anyway I can message you to show you the tears?
What kind adjustments are you making to the bow at six and 10 feet ?you talk about making adjustments to the rest that 15 yards but nothing at six and 10 feet!
When I'm shooting through paper at 6' (then 10'), I'm making adjustments to the cam once I have verified that the centershot and arrow height are correct. Once I get back to 15 yards, I'll make minor adjustments to the rest, BUT, if I make a rest adjustment and see no improvement, I'll make another adjustment to the cam.
You can, but I've found the walking back through paper out to 20 yards to really minimize any movement needed. Out of the last 100-150 bows I've tuned this way, they've shot great out to 80+ yards. I think people tend to cant the bow more than anything causing an improper reading when doing the walk-back tune, but if it'll shoot a perfect hole through paper at 20 yards (and I mean, PERFECT!!!), you won't find a bow that will shoot anything better!
Hunt Urban so all you’re adjusting to get that bullet hole at 10-15 yards through paper is the yolks or tophat in this case? You don’t adjust left to right on the rest once you set that centershot?
No, not exactly. At 6-10' I shoot a bare shaft and make adjustments ONLY to the top hats, once I verify that the centershot is 100% spot on correct at 13/16", and running dead level. After that, I will make adjustments to the bow using the top hats. After that, when I get back to 15 yards and shoot a fletched arrow, I might make a TINY adjustment to the rest (i.e. 1/64"). If that doesn't fix the tear (and it normally does), I will change the top hats again.
Question. I got my Vertix in this week and it feels nothing like it did in November when I shot the one that my local archery shop had. In November I was super impressed with the valley and the shootability of the bow. This bow is crazy aggressive! The bow shop bow was 70/85 and my bow is 75/85. Do you think the 5 lb difference in mods is making it that much more aggressive in the draw cycle?
It sounds like the timing on your bow is off. This will cause exactly what you're saying you're feeling. Check it on a draw board and make sure the bow is in proper timing and you should be good to go
@hunt urban- Hey brother I'm having an issue with my 2019 vertix. My arrows aren't flying the same..I switched from 28 inch 340 spine Gold tip hunter xt to 29inch 300 spine easton axis and now my shots aren't consistent. My gold tips grouped and drilled the X but these eastons aren't consistent. Any help? I appreciate it
Hey bud. Have you shot the bow through paper? Did your draw length change? Trying to figure out why you went with an extra inch on the arrow. Also, how much weight are you running up front? We can get this fixed, no problem!
Howdy!! You are correct - arrow spine is very important - however, even with a perfectly spined arrow, you sometimes need to shim the cams slightly to adjust the powerstroke of the bow, but proper spined arrows are very, very important. I have a video coming soon regarding arrow building that should cover everything! Most importantly - Cheers back!!
By running the arrow slightly higher in the berger hole and dead level, you're changing where you're pulling on the bow in relation to dead center between the cams, and grip location (which isn't dead center), therefore helping a slight counterbalance, and effectively making the bow hold steadier at full draw.
James Key haha, no, you definitely still want to run that stabilizer, but by changing that angle it will help the bow hold steadier. Give it a try and let me know what you find out!
Great vid. Only difference I would argue is that this is not “super tuning” this is just normal tuning. If you’re not setting up your bow like this then you should not be hunting with it.
I've been amazed over the years what some guys are comfortable hunting with. I've found this system to be the absolute best way to get hyper-accuracy out of a bow with the least amount of redundant steps.
Yep dose no good to tune a new bow until you do get the strings stretched cause you will haft to put the ATA back to spec and brace height cause of string stretch. Not only that you will be doing all this for nothing if you don't. Do it once do it Wright and you won't be wasting time lol
@@imtrashmyguys1612 - I've not found any of the new bows to have any issue with timing due to string stretch. Most factory threads now are really good, and don't have the stretching issue that older bows had.
@@HuntUrban I love the whole Mathews line. This year I bought the Triax and Vertix for myself and the TX~5 for the wife. All of them turned easy. The only thing I've had to go back and adjust is the main string to correct peep twist. There's a lot of opinions on the Zebra string on the Mathews but I have not personally seen any stretch issues from the 5 Mathews I've owned. After initial tune any additional adjustments needed should be minimal. Maybe I've been lucky but mine stays in tune!
Heck yeah man that’s how I hunt here in Indiana! It was cool to see a video with someone else doing that I don’t have as many properties and my tag count is lower, but other than that I’m hunting in backyards and stuff just like you. I have regular properties as well but the challenge of hunting in tight quarters is rewarding. I’m going to subscribe to your channel man. I’m going thru a video editing courses and I’ll be uploading content soon. Thanks for taking the time to make this video !
Can you please explain? It shouldn't change at all. You center-shot should be set per the brand (but 13/16" works pretty great across the board), then tune the bow. Afterwards, it should shoot any broadhead/fp/etc to the same POI.
@@HuntUrban I set it up 13/16 then when i shoot my feild points it shoots right on. Then i shoot my fixed blade broadheads.I have to move my rest left or right to bring my broadheads to impact with the feild points. Allways have with my fixed blade heads.
This is the correct way to do it! A lot of guys just move the rest until they get a perfect bullethole at 5ft with a fletched arrow and call it good! My local shop even did this when I bought my bow. I had to show the tech the correct way to do it. Needless to say I now do all my own tuning. Bareshaft, walkback! Great video! I’m happy to see it done correctly for once! So much bad information on TH-cam!
Thanks! Yes, it's scary what's out there for "information", and even scarier what some "bow techs" will do to your bow in a shop! I figured out a long time ago that I was better off learning how to tune a bow myself and just went to town on learning. There are few better feelings in life than knowing your bow is 100% dialed!!
I've always thought this. I want to be a self reliant bowhunter anyways. there is enough information and videos out there nowadays to feel confident in being able to set everything up yourself. looks like I'll be buying a press in the near future. are those factory strings or customs? @@HuntUrban
Austin Gannon Those are most definitely custom strings.
You are the only bow guy that i have watched, that knows the difference between plumb and level❤❤❤
Worked perfectly on my triaxx , fixed blades flying perfect with my field points , thanks man
Glad I could help!!
This is the absolute best vid for full advice ive found yet!!! Ive asked people in specific detail that know all about this but this is the only piece of advice ive gotten that i fully understand and can easily do! I subscribed and turned on notifications!
Glad it was helpful!
+1 for detailed video of top hat adjustment.
New archer here. Is it worth making a short video on each step you described? Could be a really good series.
John Dudley did it with his nocked and ready to rock series. It's worth watching.
“Take the time to get that bullet hole up tight” 🤣 great Video
There's FINALLY a good bow tuning video on youtube!
One of the best videos out there on labeling the steps but not on what to do to remedy a fault. I think you'd have more views and longer retention time if you went in depth. It's better to be long winded.
Good advice your bow looks sweet . Just upgraded from hoyt powermax and bought a mathews vertix. My first bow I ever bought at 16 years old. Got all flow green cables and strings. The snow needs to melt so I can test her range. My powermax shot good up to 90 so I'm looking forward to see how far i can get my vertix.
What you are looking for with thes plumb and level bubbles is a knocked arrow resting truly square to the string. I think a sheetrock square would be great for this.
Uh! Intro song is da jam!👍 Thanks for the video dude)
I've subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Top hats, and cam timing, and berger holes, oh my! I'm such a bow tuning noob. Great video!
Don't ever let Taylor touch your Berger hole
@@flinginairos precisely
This man need more likes and sun quick informative and to the point. Much love
More info on the Berger hole and top hat adjustment
Absolutely awesome video. Just bought a Vertix and this will he the first bow that I build myself from start to finish, there’s no other video out there like this.
Would you mind doing a video on the top hats and how to adjust.
Thank you! We'll add your recommendation to our list of potential subjects to cover in future videos.
I have a southland archery destroyer that is a couple or three years old and am planning on replacing the string and cables on it but I can't find any documentation online about initial timing marks on the cams for a starting point. Another big question I have is about ATA and brace height, I've heard some professionals say that it's not really important to check these as it is on cam timing and such. I know when I got the destroyer new, the ATA was off by about 5/8" and brace height was about 1/2" off from specs listed on their website about what the bow was supposed to be. Long in both cases. I'm new to doing my own tuning but not new to shooting archery. Not sure exactly what I should be adjusting if I install new string and cables and ATA and brace height are still off like they were when the bow was new. Any insight would be greatly appreciated thanks!
Holy moley, you almost lost me 5 seconds in. Glad I watched it all, good video thanks
How do you like shooting the vertix at 31” dl? How steep are the strings, how many anchor points do you get? Does your nose touch the string? You should do a shooting review of the bow
chris klauder - happy to do a video on shooting it at a long DL. I’m shooting the bow in the 30.5” module, but Mathews tend to run a little longer. This bow is right at 30.95” actual draw. String angle is great, and there isn’t any nick pinch. With the size of the cams, it really feels like a 33-34” ATA bow.
I’m not sure if I can take cams off and change top hats. Once our dealer gets us out the door that’s it. They wanna charge extra for stuff like that. Bowtech on the other hand I just have to twist a string or better yet now I just have to turn a screw to move cam left or right. Wish Mathews would do that cause I love those bows. Ty for the video.
Find another dealer. I understand that they may have to charge you for the top hat kits but if they sell you the bow they should be making damn sure it shoots great when you leave.
Yeah man I wish. Ty for the video. I swear it’s the dealers that make archery so complicated.
is draw length measured from the berger hole or front end of the riser
I’ve just bought a vertix from my local dealer,we were paper tuning bare shaft and were getting about a 3/4 inch tear know low.We dropped the rest to the point where it was way to low.The only way we could get it to a bullet Hope was back out the bottom limb 1 1/2 turns.What would your thoughts be on this or maybe another solution.
Hey bud - your timing is definitely off. Do you have access to a draw board?
Cheers for the reply,after getting home in sat and thought about it for a while it was the the d loop pinching my nock.After putting serving in between the nick and the bottom of the d loop I got perfect bullet holes.Just shot a really nice fallow buck with it yesterday very happy with the bow.
Subscribed. Can you put a link to how to do step 10, with the plumb bob string?
Thanks!
Nick
Awesome video man... Appreciate it
wish he was local to visit and have him tune my bow for me, seems very knowledgeable
Can you do a video that is totally detailed on everything you talk about in this video
I'm working on starting a bow shop 😁
EXCELLENT tutorial!
you say thirteen sixteenths; is that from the riser to center of arrow or from riser to closest edge of arrow
Riser to the Center of the arrow.
berger button to center
Great vid on the subject. Why don't you shoot the bareshaft at your furthest range (15 yds in your basement). Wouldn't that show deviation in the arrow better than a fletched shaft? Don't the flethchings help to stabilize the arrow's flight?
Yes, a bare shaft will show greater deviation than a fletched shaft, however, that deviation sometimes isn't the bow. A bare shaft will sometimes show shooter flaws that aren't consistent, and therefore make you chase your tail around. Also, it's hard to perfectly replicate the weight on the back of the bare shaft vs. fletched, so I've found it better to tune with fletched past 10' through paper. The fletchings do help stabilize the arrow, but it won't correct it to perfect. It's amazing how perfect I can get a bare shaft at 10' (and I mean PERFECT), only to see a tear show up at 15 yards. Lastly, shooting the fletched arrow helps rule out any fletching contact. If there was any, it would show up pretty noticably at the 15 yard mark.
Where does one learn how to do all this stuff? My bow shop is good but I wonder if they cut corners when they're busy.....
I learned this out of necessity, and ten years of trial & error.... with lots of error... and tinkering!
What would it take to get you to super tune my VTM 31, hard to find anyone who takes that kinda time on a bow to get perfection
Great information keep them coming
Robert Marut - thanks!!
Great video. Heard you on a podcast speaking to your max of roughly 20 yards to the target due to the surrounding neighborhood. What is your go to arrow, total weight, and broadhead set up that you have seen most success with. Thanks , keep up the good work.
LSU GOLFER - yup, I very rarely shoot over 20 yards, just because of how tight my properties are. I’ve found black eagle arrows to be amazingly straight and their tolerances are the best I’ve found. I like to use a heavy arrow with high FOC and a mechanical broadhead. My current arrow is around 525 grains and has a 19% FOC.
Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other specific questions- happy to help!
What do you consider short ATA and long ATA? And is adding or subtracting twists going to be the same for any brand of bow based on that ATA?
How did you get the draw length to 31? The website says it only goes to 30.5.
I don’t have any pro shops near me and I’m pretty new to bow hunting with a compound bow. I don’t understand how to do any of this, and I don’t have anywhere to take it. It sucks
Is buying a pre owned mathews vertix bow a upgrade to a Hoyt Maxxis bow?
I already tuned my 2020 arrow shafts that I made in January 2 my 2019 CT 5 bow. Very impressed with the flight & penetration of them.
I just finished some 23 style target shafts that I was going 2 put 125 grain points in also but i have a right tear with these heavier points. I have a Centergy @ the bow shop awaiting a swap of cams with my other rest on that bow. Wasn't planning on messing with the rest on the CT 5 which is perfect 4 that setup. My ? is which way 2 I move & tinker the Nexxus since I haven't had a need 2 touch it once over the last year? Thanks for your great videos which r very easy 2 follow 4 all skill levels.
ok, how do I do this to my bear legion w/whisker bisquit and solo cam? no bow vise available and no d loop(release goes on string old school)bow shoots field points great but fixed broadheads fly different (ALOT)
LOVE IT!! great tips brother!
Just setting up my V3 and to get center shot at 13/16 I need to move my rest (Hamskea hybrid hunter) pretty far to the left. Is that normal/OK or should I start messing with the top hats to try and bring the string right? When the arrow is nocked it looks straight on the shelf. I just don’t like the fact the rest is almost of room to move further left if needed. Thanks!
Why do you prefer paper tune over laser tune?
Great video! Getting my Vertix today!
Nice!! Let me know how you like it!
Interesting about your theory of paper tuning. Makes sense. What about top hats?
Changing the top hats is the same as shimming the bow, just a much better-designed system by Mathews.
@@HuntUrban I like your video by the way.
Great video!!!! Salutes from Spain!Keep it rolling, this was a great help! ;)
Related but unrelated. I want to set a saddle video. You seem to have your set up dialed. I wanna see everything you use and how you set it all up. Looking at a tetherd saddle and platform for next season
Thanks! I'm working on just that at the moment!!
Like really really level..🤣 Solid work guys!
Bowhunting Fiend - “like, really really!” Hahahahaha. It’s important! Glad you enjoyed the video- I know you love those Mathews top hats!
@@HuntUrban I sure do! I'm making bank on those things lately. I just had to fix a repair from a "pro shop" on another mathews. It's a pretty slick set up and definitely easier swapping top hats than cam spacers on most binarys.
It seems as if you only used two of the four screws it came with.!? why did you not use all four screws? is that proper ?
Great Video... I might be buying the Mathews TX-5.
That TX-5 is an awesome bow as well!
Love my TX !!!
Guess what, mathews isnt the only bow manufacturer!
Per the tetra instructions you can't set the second axis until your 20 yard distance is set. You don't mess with your third?
Hey Chad - I always do my third axis as well, but I wait until the bow is 100% spot on at 20 yards. I like to make sure the 2nd is set before I sight in, just so when I'm tuning I know the arrow is leaving perfectly level. This step isn't needed, I just do it because I'm super anal!
What kind of sight were you using
The HHA Optimizer Tetra... incredible sight and super easy to setup!
Hi there, thanks for the info. I just bought a vertix and i was a bit disappointed with how quickly they "tuned" my brand new bow. Question for ya, When i pull my bow back ( 70 lbs) which is a bit heavy for me .... the bow "dumps" hard ...and has that side to side shake as i get to my anchor point. I don't see others' vertixs doing this when i watch videos .... is this an indication of my cams not being timed? is it not tuned well? ...or is it because i'm pulling max weight for me? thanks!
Sounds like the timing is off. That feeling of the dump is caused by cams that aren't timed. Do you have access to a bow press?
@@HuntUrban Thanks for the advice. I don't have a bowpress...but the shop does and i bought it brand new ...and paid top dollar. I'll request they take a second look into this for me. Appreciate your advice.
Awesome video!
Absolutely enjoyed the video.. Can't wait to see the next one. Should bring you my Triax for tuning : )
Can you show how to adjust the top hat system, everyone talks about it but never show how to adjust them
Left field question: How does the 5 grain per pound draw weight rule apply to Recurve bow? Or can it apply?
Recurve is more like 10 grains per pound
Cam lean - can you give some tech tips on how to correct cam lean....
Hi ya bud great videos! Quick question I've just got a vertix 70lbs at 29 340 spine or 300 what you reckon? 🤔
I'd say 300 at first glance, but I recommend considering what weight you're going to be shooting in front of the arrow. I like to add weight to get my FOC higher, and therefore always go stiffer on spine.
I’m new to super tuning this vidja definitely helped me
Thanks for the great tips!! I would love to see a detailed video on changing strings and cables. Thanks
Thanks! I have one in the works as we speak!
how are you keeping everything level when it's not tight in the vise and flopping all over when you're making the adjustments..?
Gotta keep it tight in the vice!!
GREAT JOB MY FRIEND. WELL DESCRIBED. THANKS FOR SHARING.
What makes this a "super tune"..? I feel like this is just a standard tune. I would consider a super tune to be yoke tuning, walk back tuning, and torque tuning (for the crazies) but every shop should be doing this "super tune" for every bow going out the door. Just a thought, would love to hear your feedback...
Cole - this bow doesn't have yokes, so by top hat tuning (or shim tuning), you're moving the cam to effectively change the center shot of the bow. By shooting the bare shaft through paper up close, then walking back to 15-20 yards and shooting through paper, it will almost 100% eliminate the need for walk back tuning. I always verify that at 50 yards after tuning, but to date, and over 100 bows tuned, haven't had a single one be off. This system is really a super simple, quick, efficient way to get your bow fully dialed.
Hunt Urban good to know, thanks. Do you have any thoughts on French tuning?
On the new QAD mx rest. The rest is topped out before I can Center the bottom of the arrow in the Berger holes. I have the rest set with the arrow in the little grove on the riser. Is your rest set up the same way?
I certainly don't have an issue with the range of adjustment. Can you find me on IG and send me a pic? We can get you dialed in. @urbanbowman
In order to get a bullet hole, I have to lower my rest quite a bit so it’s nock high, Is this norma?
Sean Jyringi - no, that’s not normal. Set your rest back to dead level and running through the middle of the Berger hope. Your cam timing is off and causing the vertical tear.
I read somewhere blue is the one hue on the color wheel that deer can see and see quite well. Might want to think about switching the color of that bow string!
Nice Tethrd hat! Great vid...
Thanks Robert! Glad you enjoyed it.
Hey man, i gave you a subscribe. Very nice video. You were clear and concise, the editing was done well and you seem very knowledgeable. The closest bow shop to me is a Scheels and it's an hour away. I've purchased a bow through them twice now and both times i just feel like they rushed me out of there and don't really care to help me get my bows dialed in. It would be really awesome if you made a more detailed video! I also shoot a Mathews Vertix with an integrate rest! Cheers man, i hope to see a more in depth video from you in the future!
Great video, love the content. Any suggestions on getting 1/8 timing issue out. I put the bow on the draw board and no matter what I do its the same. Tighten and loosen cables and still the same. Obviously, it change cam to cam..
Do you have a shot I could send a Traverse to to super tune?
How much would you charge me to Fix my bow? trying to get it to the best it can be I bought it and didn't do nothing with except practice citing it in
Did you
setting Mathews bow Halon 32” and Halon X Comp 37”? Do you have any suggestion?
I setting the center shot by laser and bind up about 21 mm instead 20.6 mm
(13/16”). Any other suggestion it will very appreciate.
I always start them right at 13/16". Once I get back to 20 yards and am shooting a fletched shaft through paper, I might move it slightly (1/32" - 1/64"). Overall, I don't really care if it isn't dead on 13/16", just as long as it was there when I went back to 20 yards, and it's a perfect tear through paper. This tells me that the powerstroke of the bow is correct, and I have the proper top hat system in the bow. The rest is just getting the arrow to accept that power correctly - does that make sense?
Yes. Please make a more detailed video. Showing how u make each adjustments.
You'll be seeing more videos on this in the future!
I too would like to see more in-depth tutorials on each phase of the Vertix tune.
Sounds like you'll want a tutorial on how to hold a hex wrench and screw driver too?
Once you have completed the French tune you dont do walk back tune at all?
I'll verify the tune by doing a walk-back, but I've found all my bows to be shooting pretty darn perfect once that 15 - 20 yard fletched shot through paper is perfect. I make sure to get really, really anal here, and won't stop tuning until the hole is absolutely PERFECT. Let me know what you find when you do the tune and check it with the walk back!
If I have to change top hats on top cam do I do the same to the bottom cam I’m new to this system
You can keep the bottom cam where it is. 99% of the time, the tune will be fixed with just minor top hat adjustments.
Hunt Urban so leave bottom alone usually?
@@jasonnester9514 Yes - no need to touch bottom top hats except in very rare circumstances.
Hunt Urban perfect
What sight are you using here? Great video, thanks!
I've been rocking the HHA Sports Optimizer Tetra on this new bow and love it. So easy to get dialed.
Great video! Thank you
I’m trying to paper tune my bow currently but I keep getting a weird tear. My center shot is great but the tear remains. Is there anyway I can message you to show you the tears?
Sure. Message me on IG @urbanbowman
What kind adjustments are you making to the bow at six and 10 feet ?you talk about making adjustments to the rest that 15 yards but nothing at six and 10 feet!
When I'm shooting through paper at 6' (then 10'), I'm making adjustments to the cam once I have verified that the centershot and arrow height are correct. Once I get back to 15 yards, I'll make minor adjustments to the rest, BUT, if I make a rest adjustment and see no improvement, I'll make another adjustment to the cam.
Do you confirm with walk back tuning your rest? Out to 30 yards and beyond
You can, but I've found the walking back through paper out to 20 yards to really minimize any movement needed. Out of the last 100-150 bows I've tuned this way, they've shot great out to 80+ yards. I think people tend to cant the bow more than anything causing an improper reading when doing the walk-back tune, but if it'll shoot a perfect hole through paper at 20 yards (and I mean, PERFECT!!!), you won't find a bow that will shoot anything better!
Hunt Urban so all you’re adjusting to get that bullet hole at 10-15 yards through paper is the yolks or tophat in this case? You don’t adjust left to right on the rest once you set that centershot?
No, not exactly. At 6-10' I shoot a bare shaft and make adjustments ONLY to the top hats, once I verify that the centershot is 100% spot on correct at 13/16", and running dead level. After that, I will make adjustments to the bow using the top hats. After that, when I get back to 15 yards and shoot a fletched arrow, I might make a TINY adjustment to the rest (i.e. 1/64"). If that doesn't fix the tear (and it normally does), I will change the top hats again.
Hunt Urban roger that I gotcha now man thanks for the clarification!!
Question. I got my Vertix in this week and it feels nothing like it did in November when I shot the one that my local archery shop had. In November I was super impressed with the valley and the shootability of the bow. This bow is crazy aggressive! The bow shop bow was 70/85 and my bow is 75/85. Do you think the 5 lb difference in mods is making it that much more aggressive in the draw cycle?
Make sure the draw stops are hitting at the same time is the only thing i can think of.
It sounds like the timing on your bow is off. This will cause exactly what you're saying you're feeling. Check it on a draw board and make sure the bow is in proper timing and you should be good to go
I’ve been to 3 different shops and still can’t get my Vertix bare shaft tuned.
Same here
@@raymondpapenfuss983 its probably your grip or your bow shop
@hunt urban- Hey brother I'm having an issue with my 2019 vertix. My arrows aren't flying the same..I switched from 28 inch 340 spine Gold tip hunter xt to 29inch 300 spine easton axis and now my shots aren't consistent. My gold tips grouped and drilled the X but these eastons aren't consistent. Any help? I appreciate it
Hey bud. Have you shot the bow through paper? Did your draw length change? Trying to figure out why you went with an extra inch on the arrow. Also, how much weight are you running up front? We can get this fixed, no problem!
I understand thank you for replying back
One major component you left out ..
Arrow spine ..
a properly spined arrow will not need top hat adjustment. Cheers 🍻
Howdy!! You are correct - arrow spine is very important - however, even with a perfectly spined arrow, you sometimes need to shim the cams slightly to adjust the powerstroke of the bow, but proper spined arrows are very, very important. I have a video coming soon regarding arrow building that should cover everything! Most importantly - Cheers back!!
hunter 87
Exactly ..
Do you tune bows for people
I used to, but got very, very overwhelmed by it. Now just for close buddies.... and all of mine!
Hunt urban PLEASE TELL ME HOW RUNNING MY ARROW WITH THE BOTTOM OF THE ARROW THROUGH THE BURGER HOLE MAKES MY BOW HOLD ON TARGET BETTER????????
By running the arrow slightly higher in the berger hole and dead level, you're changing where you're pulling on the bow in relation to dead center between the cams, and grip location (which isn't dead center), therefore helping a slight counterbalance, and effectively making the bow hold steadier at full draw.
@@HuntUrban so I no longer need stabilizer thanks for the Jedi trick. Lol
James Key haha, no, you definitely still want to run that stabilizer, but by changing that angle it will help the bow hold steadier. Give it a try and let me know what you find out!
@@HuntUrban we'll I guess the saying don't knock it till you try it will haft to apply lol love the humor in your vids
Great video man, thanks
Great vid. Only difference I would argue is that this is not “super tuning” this is just normal tuning. If you’re not setting up your bow like this then you should not be hunting with it.
I've been amazed over the years what some guys are comfortable hunting with. I've found this system to be the absolute best way to get hyper-accuracy out of a bow with the least amount of redundant steps.
Love to get a detailed D loop video
I’m suprised you didn’t go with the Traverse being a 31” draw length..
I was thinking about it! But I like the shorter ATA for saddle hunting.... might just have to get both!
You forgot the "gravel tune" portion if things don't go your way :D
lol
Yeah, what do you do if you don't have a bow vice ?
You mean for setting the nock sets, or are you referring to the bow press?
You mean for setting the nock sets, or are you referring to the bow press?
No ,for getting your bow absolutely plumb
Shouldn't you shoot around 100 arrows before even do the tunning? To let the strings settle...
Yep dose no good to tune a new bow until you do get the strings stretched cause you will haft to put the ATA back to spec and brace height cause of string stretch. Not only that you will be doing all this for nothing if you don't. Do it once do it Wright and you won't be wasting time lol
@@imtrashmyguys1612 - I've not found any of the new bows to have any issue with timing due to string stretch. Most factory threads now are really good, and don't have the stretching issue that older bows had.
@@HuntUrban yes they are good but stretch they will but if you buy into that b.s. I'm on the wrong channel thanks and have a good day
@@HuntUrban I love the whole Mathews line. This year I bought the Triax and Vertix for myself and the TX~5 for the wife. All of them turned easy. The only thing I've had to go back and adjust is the main string to correct peep twist. There's a lot of opinions on the Zebra string on the Mathews but I have not personally seen any stretch issues from the 5 Mathews I've owned. After initial tune any additional adjustments needed should be minimal. Maybe I've been lucky but mine stays in tune!
@@imtrashmyguys1612 Quality strings are built under 300 lbs of tension, Good strings don't stretch/creep!
Distance of peep sight?
Are you referring to the distance of the peep from your eye? Or distance of peep from arrow at full draw?
I have a question I changed the bow strings and I am having an issue with Yokes tuning on the Mathew vertix
Any suggestions
Are u the dude that was on the first lite urban hunt quick vid where ur shooting deer in backyards and donating to the hunters for the hungry?
Squatchin Outdoors - yup, that was me! Hope you enjoyed the film.
Heck yeah man that’s how I hunt here in Indiana!
It was cool to see a video with someone else doing that
I don’t have as many properties and my tag count is lower, but other than that I’m hunting in backyards and stuff just like you.
I have regular properties as well but the challenge of hunting in tight quarters is rewarding. I’m going to subscribe to your channel man. I’m going thru a video editing courses and I’ll be uploading content soon. Thanks for taking the time to make this video !
That's awesome, bud! Gotta love hunting in the 'burbs!!
nice video
My centershot changes with my broadheads.
Can you please explain? It shouldn't change at all. You center-shot should be set per the brand (but 13/16" works pretty great across the board), then tune the bow. Afterwards, it should shoot any broadhead/fp/etc to the same POI.
@@HuntUrban I set it up 13/16 then when i shoot my feild points it shoots right on. Then i shoot my fixed blade broadheads.I have to move my rest left or right to bring my broadheads to impact with the feild points. Allways have with my fixed blade heads.