Your the best example of why we can learn so much more just listening to our elders with experience in thier fields of expertise. My father was a Master Mechanic for most of his life He could tell me fixes, make your that's tools that took years of trial and error to achieve. Thank you for sharing your years of experience through your videos; so we can do it better/ more efficient and cheaper in many ways.
The quality of information within Andrew's videos/films is amazing. The fact that this information is given for free is mind boggling - and greatly appreciated.
This is amazing, the first video that I’ve seen that shows you don’t actually need to buy that lorotone tumbler. I’ve been searching for this answer for years 😄 Thank you so much Andrew! I can start polishing my rings correctly so they can finally be sellable!
I'm enjoying watching this, and hope to pick up some new skills - I'm just learning about a small bench top buffer I recently purchased. I enjoy restoring antique Connecticut clocks and sharpening tools, knives. Thank you...
Thank you SO much Andrew for sharing your knowledge and all your videos! Words can not express the gratitude I have for you, for making these videos and having them available for aspiring jewellery makers. My dream wouldn’t be achievable without teachers like you willing to help others. Your the best!!!
Basic wooden paint stirring sticks are excellent for making buff sticks. My local paint shop give them free of charge (when buying some paint). I glue the emery paper on with contact adhesive. Very durable and as they wear, they give a higher shine.
Hey Andrew, timing couldn’t have been more perfect, i had been searching for this exact video the night before and couldn’t find anything quite like it- then you made this! the 90 degree tip is VERY helpful. PLEASE can you do a video about basic stone setting for small faceted gems , where you use ball burrs and setting burrs. I’m struggling to find a good clear video. Thank you!
Still the best jewelry videos I love the recycling tip of using a worn piece of sandpaper. I was just tossing them out but now, I'll keep them and reuse them as finer grit.
Hello. First of all wow what a fantastic honest video. You dont waffle on you share some great tips. And just a alrounder nice presentation so thank you. I am a total novice to anything like this. I must own over 2kg of silver but i absolutely hate dull pieces. I own a dremel. Do you think if i was to purchase some wool polishing rounds and some rouge polishing paste i would be able to get that high polish i seak ? I dont have any scratches in any of my pieces as i wear it for the day then i wash dry and buff after each use. So some very minor day to day scratches only. I am always after that super sparkling silver. Especially if its one of my baltic amber pieces i am wearing i have big bold chunky amber jewellery made with sterling silver and big bold chunky silver too. I cant spend a fortune. I would love to learn how to get that high shine. I do not want to buff with the emery as i cant get my head around the fact i got to scratch it to then remove it. I figure a well cleaned and prepared piece should in theory come up sparkling with a wool disk and rouge ? Id really appreciate your advice on this please if you have the time.
Andrew, I was hoping you would talk more about the the white nylon brush polishers, they seem to be able to work in small areas (like between tube settings) better than mops, do you use brushes for only prepolish or will they also work for final ?
I am a newby and found your polishing processes very interesting. Wish you could have told/shown us something about the ultra-sonic? Thanks for sharing your experise.
Andrew, thank you! Hope you're well and making the best of the shut-in! MORE VIDEO'S PLEASE! I would love to see the best ways to bring chains back to their original shine!... love your channel
Thanks, now I know why I can't get rid of lines... I picked a direction that was easy to hold the piece in and kept it that way for all my sanding. I started with super-coarse, then went to 400, then 800, then no matter how fine I went I kept seeing the lines... Thumbs up!!!
Would love to see this set of tools applied to the polishing of chains Andrew. Nobody seems to do videos on chains (because its harder?) rather sticking to simplistic pieces that are easy to work with. A chain obviously wants to wrap around rotary tools and contains areas hard to reach (inside links) plus working with the nylon brushes is hard because they are pretty thin and move the chain about.
Thank you appreciate the saving on the multiple emery papers idea. The whole cross polishing was something that I just learned recently and I felt so stupid thinking like wood working with the grains. We are trying to remove the “grains”.
Hello Andrew: Newbie here. I am looking for the "hard calico mops" that you describe as your initial rotary tool and I am not sure what nor where to get this tool. What is the brand/type that you are using here? Do you have other Suggestions? Thank you.
Hi Andrew thank you very much, i am from Turkey and would like to know how are the Steps for brass pieces, which polish color is ok? Still same components, Dear Andrew or anyone can answer, i would be more than pleased, loves ❤
I'm a little confused. Why did you use the buff sticks if the metal was already pretty shiny? Couldn't you have skipped the buff sticks and went straight to the prepolish and then the finishing polish? I ask because I do wirework jewelry that I've decided to start polishing. It's already pretty shiny, but not as nice as I would like. Do I have to remove the shine it already has first with sand paper? Or could I go straight to the polishing compounds and the mops? I'm not new to the wirework, but I'm brand new to polishing. So, I apologize if this is a silly question.
Andrew could you please give me some tips, about porosity in my rings. What should I do because even with compound I can't get rid of it?thank you Andrew💖
As always very educational! But I'm still having trouble with the fine polish. Buffing and prepolish goes really smooth, but when i (after cleaning of the prepolish) use the rouge (dialux) with flanell the surface kind of clogges up with polishing compound or residue. when i polish it away, it forms at another spot. the surface looks almost foggy, with smears. after cleaning most is gone, but not all. sometimes i have to scrape it off with soft plastic. my prepolish looks way better, as it is very consistent. but i'm never satisfied with the fine polish. at some angles it looks good, but from others it there is still a smear left. it looks like what you can see at 16:25 to 16:26 in the video. how do i get rid of this last obstacle to get a perfect mirror finish?
PatronofDeath Is the flannel process by hand? If so the compound won’t get enough friction / heat to make it move. If I am hand polishing I often use a bit of Goddards Silver Polish which is liquid and rouge ( the polish lifts the rouge off onto the cloth) on a soft cloth to finish off with circular movements to remove the surface film and bits in corners. Honestly though when I don’t get the mirror finish I was aiming for it’s often because the final polish has revealed scratches underneath which I haven’t dealt with at emery or pre polish , or the mops I am using are either contaminated or clogged with old compound. Been doing this a while and a really good final mirror finish is a struggle especially on big surface areas where there is no where to hide!
When he talks about using ultrasonic for a fresh state, if you do not have an ultrasonic cleaner, soap and water and scrubbing will substitute. Don't use the 3m green scrubbies, they'll add scratches, but the 3m blue scrubbies will clean metal without contributing scratches.
Hello Andrew thanks for the tips 😊could you list the name of the mops please ? And the any sand paper 600 grits will Work ? I hear you call it different
Hi Andrew, I am a military medal mounter (Legs’ Medal Mounting Service) and was wondering what process and polish you recommend to bring a medal from a which may be tarnished or have light scratches on it, back to a high shine as it was in its original state. Thanks in advance 😊
You can find the rouge and tripoli almost anywhere. Just stay away from the super cheap stuff on Amazon in my opinion the binders make it a total pain and even bigger mess and they arrive so dried out. But dialux is supposedly good, and for menzerna it's also on Amazon but much higher price point. I would try your wholesaler.
@@julieviada8777 tripoli is referring to brown tripoli, which is a somewhat cutting polishing compound that comes in a bar like rouge, but rouge us usually "red rouge" and is less abrasive thus allowing the high shine final polish. There are final polishing compounds like white diamond and green, blue etc. But they're generally used for different metals/materials (i.e. green for stainless, blue for plastic etc. ) I have yet to try menzerna but am eager to because the compound red rouge is made of (iron oxide i beleive?) Makes me sick despite masks and eye protection so I usually skip to white diamond compound but I don't always get the best results. Probably just me though. :) hope that helps!
Firstly, I would like to say thank you for every single video, aaand sucha DETAILED answer! ☆YOU ARE 2 COOOL, Andrew!!!☆ I am about to confidently get my jewelry making 'back on' right after my next surgery!!!♡
So these finish polish material is safe to use on silverware 🍽 because even if I use a cloth to clean up some residue might still be left? Assuming I do not have a ultrasonic treating machine.
When you went over half the silver with a buff stick, since you're using wet and dry, I wish you'd mentioned how why you might add a bit of water can keep the sandpaper clean/flushed out and give you a chance to work awhile without the sandpaper clogging. It's an important thing to get a feel for. You don't always want it, sometimes you want the paper to clog which makes it slowly change to an equivalent of a higher grit, but learning the process of how this happens lets you deal with the case where a flake of metal gets embedded in the paper and you're suddenly making scratches. If you don't und3rstand, you just ruin your piece and get discouraged. Using wet paper with water keeps the paper from clogging/makes it clog slower and gives you more time at that grit without having pieces and chunks jump you back to a coarser grit.
Andrew, I've been meaning to ask for a while, where do you source the small nylon brushes? All I seem to be able to find are the ordinary bristle brushes that don't appear the same as the ones you use.
Hi Andrew, when starting off with 600 grit sandpaper, and increasing grit while changing angle by 90 degrees and ending with a wet sandpaper, after the prepolish and final polish i still see lines? What am I doing wrong?
Andrew Berry: *does a video* Andrew Berry's hands: Heya! Look at my wrecked nails, band-aids and scars! Honestly, small things like these make me feel so much better about my skill. Obviously I don't ever want you to hurt yourself, but seeing that I'm not the only one who clumsily stabs myself with sharp things makes me feel less horrible at this stuff :D And as always, great video!
does anyone know where he got those things for his dremel? mines came with only one bar and i have no clue where to find some good quality polishes for my brass and steel items.
@@Atthebench thank you! I am loving your tutorials. My daughter is moving to Alaska where there will be many dark evenings so I have sent her a basic kit including one of the books you recommended and sent her links to your tutorials. Thank you for being so generous! (I am in the USA now but almost 1/2 my family are from Wales including my late father.)
Muchas gracias por compartir la bendición del Padre del Hijo y del Espíritu Santo estén en tu vida y todos los tuyos gracias buen día bendiciones 😅😅😅😊😊Colombia
You know someone will ask, how can someone get the nylon brushes in the US? I've communicated with Rio and Otto multiple times who DO carry other things from the same company and who say they'll pass on to marketing that there is some interest, but nothing happens. So. I hope for one of two things. 1) Suggest something else. 2) Help us figure out how to get US sources to carry them. Please? This has been a years long effort to no avail.
Andrew, if you mention that soft polishing means polishing with a quite fine polish like rouge, it would be clearer. Soft polishing means you've gone past the tripoli and gotten to rouge. Soft means won't scratch as much.
Hello, I was wondering if you can speak about safety in the workshop. For example, do you wear a mask when you use a dremel to polish or soldering at the bench? Or can you just open a window and it is fine? Also very informative video
Great tips. Aren’t you called “At the Bench” not “Benches” sorry it gets me every time you say it your sign says one thing but you say another LOL love your work.
Hi. If benches was a plural then yes benches would be correct but the TH-cam channel is a part of At The Bench and so it is an apostrophe S . The channel belongs to At The Bench and so it is At The Bench's TH-cam channel
It would be nice if you put links for where to buy those bits for dremels/flex shafts. The only ones I've found local is in $20+ kits that comes with a lot of extra useless stuff. So now I've got stacks of dremel kits full of stuff I don't need just so I could get the polishing bits out of them lol.
@@TheAmericanUhate depends what you're getting becayse most of my professional grade stuff is from Amazon you just need to know what brand and specifics to look for. Otgerwuse my wholesaler in U.S. for my company is Rio Grande, I beleive esslinger, harbor freight, even fire mountain gems has alot of the different things you'd need.
I am really struggling. Every single time I polish a piece I always get dark streaks on it and the piece never goes back to the silver color. I have and use an ultrasonic after and I honestly don’t know what to do
When going in a right angle direction, you want to replace the abrasive scratches with finer abrasive scrathes going in a different direction, and you want to keep going until the original marks are gone. If you jump too many grits, you won't b3 able to get rid of the original scratches. They'll still be there. They'll just get polished. That's how you know if your jump in grit is appropriate. Too small a jump and almost immediately the original scratches are gone, but the piece is still almost as scratched. Too large a jump and the original scratches do not go away and instead just get polished shiny. Shiny! The idea of going at right angles is to make all of this really obvious to your eye so that you can make decisions and do the right thing and get the courser scratches completely gone before going on. You _want_ to make the previous stage's scratches disappear. If you don't you jumped to far.
I used this technique to polish my teeth. Unfortunately I've just received a complaint from the aviation authority because every time I smile I'm dazzling their pilots at 40 thousand feet.
@@Atthebench I just polished something for the first time without a mask and it occurred to me that I should probably be wearing a mask. Ugh that was dumb. I didn't see any particles though which is why I didn't really think I needed one initially.
Your the best example of why we can learn so much more just listening to our elders with experience in thier fields of expertise. My father was a Master Mechanic for most of his life He could tell me fixes, make your that's tools that took years of trial and error to achieve. Thank you for sharing your years of experience through your videos; so we can do it better/ more efficient and cheaper in many ways.
wow, more details and tips and goodnesss. so much super usable information. I just love it! thank you very much!
The quality of information within Andrew's videos/films is amazing. The fact that this information is given for free is mind boggling - and greatly appreciated.
He is truly wonderful. I feel very fortunate to have found this amazing teacher on TH-cam!
Thank you!!! Very useful lesson!
This is amazing, the first video that I’ve seen that shows you don’t actually need to buy that lorotone tumbler. I’ve been searching for this answer for years 😄 Thank you so much Andrew! I can start polishing my rings correctly so they can finally be sellable!
I'm enjoying watching this, and hope to pick up some new skills - I'm just learning about a small bench top buffer I recently purchased.
I enjoy restoring antique Connecticut clocks and sharpening tools, knives.
Thank you...
Finally somebody who explained it well
Just in time I really needed this information because I’m in the process of buffing and polishing my ring. Thank you so much ❤
Thank you SO much Andrew for sharing your knowledge and all your videos! Words can not express the gratitude I have for you, for making these videos and having them available for aspiring jewellery makers. My dream wouldn’t be achievable without teachers like you willing to help others. Your the best!!!
Basic wooden paint stirring sticks are excellent for making buff sticks. My local paint shop give them free of charge (when buying some paint). I glue the emery paper on with contact adhesive. Very durable and as they wear, they give a higher shine.
Nice idea 👌I'm definitely gonna try that out.. is that an Irish flag I see in your profile picture?
I endorse this reply which represents my practice. Many hardware stores/paint shops no longer give them for free, but the prices is almost nothing.
Hey Andrew, timing couldn’t have been more perfect, i had been searching for this exact video the night before and couldn’t find anything quite like it- then you made this! the 90 degree tip is VERY helpful.
PLEASE can you do a video about basic stone setting for small faceted gems , where you use ball burrs and setting burrs. I’m struggling to find a good clear video. Thank you!
One of the best goldsmiths out there, thank you for taking time and sharing your vast knowledge
Still the best jewelry videos I love the recycling tip of using a worn piece of sandpaper. I was just tossing them out but now, I'll keep them and reuse them as finer grit.
Hello. First of all wow what a fantastic honest video. You dont waffle on you share some great tips. And just a alrounder nice presentation so thank you. I am a total novice to anything like this. I must own over 2kg of silver but i absolutely hate dull pieces. I own a dremel. Do you think if i was to purchase some wool polishing rounds and some rouge polishing paste i would be able to get that high polish i seak ? I dont have any scratches in any of my pieces as i wear it for the day then i wash dry and buff after each use. So some very minor day to day scratches only. I am always after that super sparkling silver. Especially if its one of my baltic amber pieces i am wearing i have big bold chunky amber jewellery made with sterling silver and big bold chunky silver too. I cant spend a fortune. I would love to learn how to get that high shine. I do not want to buff with the emery as i cant get my head around the fact i got to scratch it to then remove it. I figure a well cleaned and prepared piece should in theory come up sparkling with a wool disk and rouge ? Id really appreciate your advice on this please if you have the time.
Love your videos, thank you for sharing your knowledge
Yay, I needed that! I have too many polishing compounds to choose from and I wasn’t sure what to use. Thank you for simplifying everything😁
Thank you so much Andrew. You are the best
Andrew, I was hoping you would talk more about the the white nylon brush polishers, they seem to be able to work in small areas (like between tube settings) better than mops, do you use brushes for only prepolish or will they also work for final ?
I am a newby and found your polishing processes very interesting. Wish you could have told/shown us something about the ultra-sonic? Thanks for sharing your experise.
Love your videos so much ! Is it possible to use a electric nail file for polishing silver ? They seem strong enough?
Thank you so much! Needed this! I have Zam and Rouge, is Zam a Pre-polish?
Andrew, thank you! Hope you're well and making the best of the shut-in! MORE VIDEO'S PLEASE! I would love to see the best ways to bring chains back to their original shine!... love your channel
Thank you oll Time for shering your Videos.
another great video thank you andrew!! doyou really use just 600 grit to remove firescale???
Hello now i get my answer from few weeks thank you so much Mr Andrew berry 🙏
thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!!
Thanks, now I know why I can't get rid of lines... I picked a direction that was easy to hold the piece in and kept it that way for all my sanding. I started with super-coarse, then went to 400, then 800, then no matter how fine I went I kept seeing the lines...
Thumbs up!!!
have you managed to correct it now?
Would love to see this set of tools applied to the polishing of chains Andrew. Nobody seems to do videos on chains (because its harder?) rather sticking to simplistic pieces that are easy to work with. A chain obviously wants to wrap around rotary tools and contains areas hard to reach (inside links) plus working with the nylon brushes is hard because they are pretty thin and move the chain about.
I’ve had an impossible time finding any video on this as well! 😅
yes, for me its also impossible to get that information! SOS
Peep this comment andrew
Thank you appreciate the saving on the multiple emery papers idea. The whole cross polishing was something that I just learned recently and I felt so stupid thinking like wood working with the grains. We are trying to remove the “grains”.
Hello Andrew: Newbie here. I am looking for the "hard calico mops" that you describe as your initial rotary tool and I am not sure what nor where to get this tool. What is the brand/type that you are using here? Do you have other Suggestions? Thank you.
Hi Andrew thank you very much, i am from Turkey and would like to know how are the Steps for brass pieces, which polish color is ok? Still same components, Dear Andrew or anyone can answer, i would be more than pleased, loves ❤
I'm a little confused. Why did you use the buff sticks if the metal was already pretty shiny? Couldn't you have skipped the buff sticks and went straight to the prepolish and then the finishing polish? I ask because I do wirework jewelry that I've decided to start polishing. It's already pretty shiny, but not as nice as I would like. Do I have to remove the shine it already has first with sand paper? Or could I go straight to the polishing compounds and the mops? I'm not new to the wirework, but I'm brand new to polishing. So, I apologize if this is a silly question.
Andrew could you please give me some tips, about porosity in my rings. What should I do because even with compound I can't get rid of it?thank you Andrew💖
As always very educational!
But I'm still having trouble with the fine polish. Buffing and prepolish goes really smooth, but when i (after cleaning of the prepolish) use the rouge (dialux) with flanell the surface kind of clogges up with polishing compound or residue. when i polish it away, it forms at another spot. the surface looks almost foggy, with smears. after cleaning most is gone, but not all. sometimes i have to scrape it off with soft plastic.
my prepolish looks way better, as it is very consistent. but i'm never satisfied with the fine polish. at some angles it looks good, but from others it there is still a smear left. it looks like what you can see at 16:25 to 16:26 in the video. how do i get rid of this last obstacle to get a perfect mirror finish?
PatronofDeath Is the flannel process by hand? If so the compound won’t get enough friction / heat to make it move. If I am hand polishing I often use a bit of Goddards Silver Polish which is liquid and rouge ( the polish lifts the rouge off onto the cloth) on a soft cloth to finish off with circular movements to remove the surface film and bits in corners. Honestly though when I don’t get the mirror finish I was aiming for it’s often because the final polish has revealed scratches underneath which I haven’t dealt with at emery or pre polish , or the mops I am using are either contaminated or clogged with old compound. Been doing this a while and a really good final mirror finish is a struggle especially on big surface areas where there is no where to hide!
When he talks about using ultrasonic for a fresh state, if you do not have an ultrasonic cleaner, soap and water and scrubbing will substitute. Don't use the 3m green scrubbies, they'll add scratches, but the 3m blue scrubbies will clean metal without contributing scratches.
What about a nail or toothbrush for tight areas?
Hello Andrew thanks for the tips 😊could you list the name of the mops please ? And the any sand paper 600 grits will
Work ? I hear you call it different
Hi Andrew, I am a military medal mounter (Legs’ Medal Mounting Service) and was wondering what process and polish you recommend to bring a medal from a which may be tarnished or have light scratches on it, back to a high shine as it was in its original state. Thanks in advance 😊
Use a white nylon brush with tripoli and then finish off with a soft woolen mop with rouge
Brilliant thanks. If you don't have an ultra sonic can you just use hot soapy water ? Any tips on setting a druzy quartz for a ring ?
Can you use a dremel 600 bit sand paper attachment instead of a buff stick?
Hi Andrew, could you possibly add links to all the various polishing compounds that you use please? Thanks in advance. :)
Yes yes yes pleeeease!! What's Tripoli & Rouge?
You can find the rouge and tripoli almost anywhere. Just stay away from the super cheap stuff on Amazon in my opinion the binders make it a total pain and even bigger mess and they arrive so dried out. But dialux is supposedly good, and for menzerna it's also on Amazon but much higher price point. I would try your wholesaler.
@@julieviada8777 tripoli is referring to brown tripoli, which is a somewhat cutting polishing compound that comes in a bar like rouge, but rouge us usually "red rouge" and is less abrasive thus allowing the high shine final polish. There are final polishing compounds like white diamond and green, blue etc. But they're generally used for different metals/materials (i.e. green for stainless, blue for plastic etc. ) I have yet to try menzerna but am eager to because the compound red rouge is made of (iron oxide i beleive?) Makes me sick despite masks and eye protection so I usually skip to white diamond compound but I don't always get the best results. Probably just me though. :) hope that helps!
Firstly, I would like to say thank you for every single video, aaand sucha DETAILED answer!
☆YOU ARE 2 COOOL, Andrew!!!☆
I am about to confidently get my jewelry making 'back on' right after my next surgery!!!♡
Thanks 👍
So these finish polish material is safe to use on silverware 🍽 because even if I use a cloth to clean up some residue might still be left? Assuming I do not have a ultrasonic treating machine.
How do you polish a ring with the dremel?
Comment on using Luxi for buffing and Polishing
Hi Andrew another great video thank you
Would you post a link to which brand of soft woollen mops that you use on final polish please..
What would you suggest for pewter jewelry? I have trouble with rouge on it.
WoooW, you’re awesome 👍 thank you mate👏
Loving your videos!
Do you offer a service if I had a couple of pieces I need polished..?
When you went over half the silver with a buff stick, since you're using wet and dry, I wish you'd mentioned how why you might add a bit of water can keep the sandpaper clean/flushed out and give you a chance to work awhile without the sandpaper clogging. It's an important thing to get a feel for. You don't always want it, sometimes you want the paper to clog which makes it slowly change to an equivalent of a higher grit, but learning the process of how this happens lets you deal with the case where a flake of metal gets embedded in the paper and you're suddenly making scratches. If you don't und3rstand, you just ruin your piece and get discouraged. Using wet paper with water keeps the paper from clogging/makes it clog slower and gives you more time at that grit without having pieces and chunks jump you back to a coarser grit.
you have a jewellery channel Patrick.?
@@samcee8659 nope:)
I can't believe you were able to keep holding that piece of metal without burning your fingers from the friction heat. Ha ha!
Can I use tripoli and rouge on gemstones like lapis lazuli?
How would you go about it with textured surfaces? ie hammered or something that has been through a rolling mill with a small pattern?
I know that this is an older video but is it possible to put what is used in the description box?
i was going to try to make my first simple band out of silver this weekend , but my silver is lost in the mail. So hopefully next weekend.
Andrew, I've been meaning to ask for a while, where do you source the small nylon brushes? All I seem to be able to find are the ordinary bristle brushes that don't appear the same as the ones you use.
Paul Isherwood Cousins uk? Or bellorbe?
Hi Andrew, when starting off with 600 grit sandpaper, and increasing grit while changing angle by 90 degrees and ending with a wet sandpaper, after the prepolish and final polish i still see lines? What am I doing wrong?
Very helpful, thank you!
Andrew Berry: *does a video*
Andrew Berry's hands: Heya! Look at my wrecked nails, band-aids and scars!
Honestly, small things like these make me feel so much better about my skill.
Obviously I don't ever want you to hurt yourself, but seeing that I'm not the only one who clumsily stabs myself with sharp things makes me feel less horrible at this stuff :D
And as always, great video!
does anyone know where he got those things for his dremel? mines came with only one bar and i have no clue where to find some good quality polishes for my brass and steel items.
Hi. We sell them in our store www.atthebench.store
I did it!
What brand emery paper did you use
Think he mentioned "Wet Or Dry" paper? No. 600 grit...
Thank you!
Great video.
what does adding water to the emery paper do?
The water washes away the metal dust and stops the emery paper getting clogged up
@@Atthebench thank you! I am loving your tutorials. My daughter is moving to Alaska where there will be many dark evenings so I have sent her a basic kit including one of the books you recommended and sent her links to your tutorials. Thank you for being so generous! (I am in the USA now but almost 1/2 my family are from Wales including my late father.)
Muchas gracias por compartir la bendición del Padre del Hijo y del Espíritu Santo estén en tu vida y todos los tuyos gracias buen día bendiciones 😅😅😅😊😊Colombia
You know someone will ask, how can someone get the nylon brushes in the US? I've communicated with Rio and Otto multiple times who DO carry other things from the same company and who say they'll pass on to marketing that there is some interest, but nothing happens. So. I hope for one of two things. 1) Suggest something else. 2) Help us figure out how to get US sources to carry them. Please? This has been a years long effort to no avail.
i cant find that rouge mop anywhere, anyone know where you can get them? typed in soft wool mop with no luck
Andrew, if you mention that soft polishing means polishing with a quite fine polish like rouge, it would be clearer. Soft polishing means you've gone past the tripoli and gotten to rouge. Soft means won't scratch as much.
Hello, I was wondering if you can speak about safety in the workshop. For example, do you wear a mask when you use a dremel to polish or soldering at the bench? Or can you just open a window and it is fine? Also very informative video
Great tips. Aren’t you called “At the Bench” not “Benches” sorry it gets me every time you say it your sign says one thing but you say another LOL love your work.
Hi. If benches was a plural then yes benches would be correct but the TH-cam channel is a part of At The Bench and so it is an apostrophe S . The channel belongs to At The Bench and so it is At The Bench's TH-cam channel
It would be nice if you put links for where to buy those bits for dremels/flex shafts. The only ones I've found local is in $20+ kits that comes with a lot of extra useless stuff. So now I've got stacks of dremel kits full of stuff I don't need just so I could get the polishing bits out of them lol.
Plus the ones in those kits doesn't last very long at all, I'd love to find some quality ones that would hold up better
Amazon
@@unboundbytiffany yeah I got some from Amazon after this but they still didn't last long. I want some professional grade stuff lol
@@TheAmericanUhate depends what you're getting becayse most of my professional grade stuff is from Amazon you just need to know what brand and specifics to look for. Otgerwuse my wholesaler in U.S. for my company is Rio Grande, I beleive esslinger, harbor freight, even fire mountain gems has alot of the different things you'd need.
Pardon typos
Can someone help me find all the equipment to make a good ring
Uau!!!
I am really struggling. Every single time I polish a piece I always get dark streaks on it and the piece never goes back to the silver color. I have and use an ultrasonic after and I honestly don’t know what to do
Sounds like firescale. thyis video will tell you all you need to know th-cam.com/video/yud7F_3oVeg/w-d-xo.html
What could you use If you dont have an untrasonic?
Same question I had
Super echt danke
hi Andrew micro motor or flex shaft can you get different hand pieces for a micro motor or are they just exclusive to the Fordham flex shaft please
When going in a right angle direction, you want to replace the abrasive scratches with finer abrasive scrathes going in a different direction, and you want to keep going until the original marks are gone. If you jump too many grits, you won't b3 able to get rid of the original scratches. They'll still be there. They'll just get polished. That's how you know if your jump in grit is appropriate. Too small a jump and almost immediately the original scratches are gone, but the piece is still almost as scratched. Too large a jump and the original scratches do not go away and instead just get polished shiny. Shiny! The idea of going at right angles is to make all of this really obvious to your eye so that you can make decisions and do the right thing and get the courser scratches completely gone before going on. You _want_ to make the previous stage's scratches disappear. If you don't you jumped to far.
I used this technique to polish my teeth. Unfortunately I've just received a complaint from the aviation authority because every time I smile I'm dazzling their pilots at 40 thousand feet.
You don't have to use a mask?
It is advisable but I could not talk if I had one on
@@Atthebench I just polished something for the first time without a mask and it occurred to me that I should probably be wearing a mask. Ugh that was dumb. I didn't see any particles though which is why I didn't really think I needed one initially.
@@Atthebench do you usually use a mask?
The finer grits do the same thing, gets a finer shine
Great vid, but still prefer using different grits it completely makes scratch invisible Bcs I go up to 3k🥲